After the indulgence of the holidays, it’s time to lighten things up. Consider it a New Year’s reset -- a comforting shift from rich, meat-heavy feasts to steaming bowls of nourishing soups and stews. Meat can certainly stay in the mix, but the clean, bright flavors of seafood offer a refreshing change of pace. And for that, look no further than cioppino.

Cioppino is a classic San Francisco seafood stew that dates back to the 1800s, when Italian and Portuguese fishermen would chop up the leftovers from their daily catch to create a hearty, tomato-based soup. Its name comes from the Italian word ciuppin, meaning “to chop.” While white wine is traditionally used to enrich the broth, this version calls for red wine, lending the stew deeper flavor and softer acidity.

There is no set rule for the combination of fish and shellfish in a cioppino, except to choose as fresh as possible and provide a variety for texture and presentation. For instance, a classic San Francisco cioppino will often include Dungeness crab, which is abundant in the winter season, but it can easily be omitted. Choose a selection of shellfish to your taste, and be sure to include chunks of a firm-fleshed white fish, such as halibut, cod or sea bass, for substance.

This stew is meant to be eaten straight away to capture the freshness of the fish. The bulk of the cooking time will be devoted to developing the broth. This step can be prepared in advance, and the stock can be cooled and refrigerated for up to 24 hours. When ready, reheat the stock and proceed with the recipe. Once the fish has been added and cooked, the cioppino is ready to serve.

Cioppino

Active time: 50 minutes

Total time: 50 minutes

Yield: Serves 5 to 6

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 medium yellow onion, chopped

1 medium fennel bulb, halved lengthwise, thinly sliced

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1/4 cup tomato paste

1 (28-ounce) can crushed Italian plum tomatoes

1 cup medium-bodied red wine

2 cups chicken stock or vegetable stock

2 tablespoons fresh orange juice

1 bay leaf

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon granulated sugar (optional)

1 pound (12 to 15) fresh clams, rinsed

1 pound (12 to 15) fresh mussels, scrubbed and debearded

1 pound large (16 to 18) shrimp, peeled, deveined (tails intact optional)

1 pound firm white fish, such as halibut, sea bass or cod, cut into 1-inch chunks

Chopped fresh Italian parsley for garnish

Heat the oil in a large soup pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onion and fennel and cook until the vegetables soften without coloring, 3 to 4 minutes, stirring frequently. Add the garlic, oregano and red pepper flakes and saute until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the tomato paste and stir to create a slurry.

Add the tomatoes, wine, stock, orange juice, bay leaf, salt and black pepper. Bring to a boil and simmer, partially covered, for 25 minutes to develop the flavor. Taste for seasoning and add more salt or the sugar, if desired.

Add the clams and mussels to the pot. Cover and cook over medium heat until the clams and mussels have opened, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the shrimp and white fish and stir gently until the fish is cooked through, about 5 minutes more. Discard any unopened clams or mussels.

Ladle the stew into warm serving bowls and garnish with parsley. Serve with crusty bread.

581-7500

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

Caption 01: Photo by Lynda Balslev for TasteFood

If you’re looking for a luscious, make-ahead dessert for the holiday season, chocolate pots de creme provide an elegant finale to a festive meal. These little terrines are filled with a rich and silky chocolate custard that is best prepared one day in advance of serving, making them ideal for entertaining and cooking for a crowd.

This classic recipe relies on a short list of ingredients and demands a high-quality dark chocolate to deliver its rich, deep flavor. It’s fortified with a splash of orange liqueur that faintly perfumes the custard. While the pots can be simply adorned with a dollop of whipped cream, add a little extra holiday sparkle with a dusting of orange-infused sugar. It’s a zesty garnish that lends bright citrusy notes to balance the creamy chocolate while accentuating the orange that ripples through the custard and whipped cream.

Chocolate Orange Pots de Creme

Active time: 30 minutes

Total time: 1 hour and 30 minutes, plus overnight cooling time for the custards and drying time for the sugar

Yield: Makes 6 (3/4-cup) ramekins or 10 to 12 espresso cups

Pots de creme:

1 3/4 cups heavy cream

1/2 cup whole milk

6 ounces high-quality dark (70% to 75%) chocolate, finely chopped

5 large egg yolks

1/3 cup granulated sugar

2 teaspoons orange liqueur, such as Cointreau

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/8 teaspoon kosher salt

Orange sugar:

1 large untreated navel orange

1/3 cup granulated sugar

Whipped cream:

1 cup heavy cream

1 tablespoon granulated sugar

1 to 2 teaspoons orange liqueur (optional)

Heat the oven to 325 degrees.

Combine the cream and milk in a saucepan over medium heat. Heat until it just reaches a simmer. Remove the pan from the heat and whisk in the chocolate until melted and smooth.

Whisk the egg yolks and sugar together in a large bowl to blend. Slowly add the cream mixture in a steady stream, whisking constantly to combine (to prevent the eggs from curdling). Whisk in the orange liqueur, vanilla and salt.

Strain the custard through a fine-meshed sieve into a clean bowl. Cool for 5 minutes.

Divide the custard between ramekins or espresso cups. Place the ramekins in a baking pan. Fill the pan with boiling water halfway up the ramekins. Cover the ramekins with foil, then transfer to oven.

Bake until the pots are set but still a little wobbly when jiggled, about 55 minutes for ramekins (or 45 minutes for espresso cups). Remove the ramekins from the water bath and remove the foil. Cool completely. Once cool, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.

One day in advance of serving, make the orange sugar. Finely grate the zest of the orange while avoiding the white pith. Transfer to a bowl and add the sugar. Using your fingertips, rub the zest into the sugar to release the oils and slightly color the sugar. Spread on a small baking sheet lined with parchment. Let stand at room temperature overnight. It will dry out as it stands.

When ready to serve the custards, make the whipped cream. Beat the cream in the bowl of an electric mixer until traces of the whisk appear. Add the sugar and orange liqueur. Continue to beat until peaks form.

To serve, sprinkle the orange sugar over the tops of the custards. Serve with a dollop of whipped cream.

581-7500

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

Caption 01: Photo by Lynda Balslev for TasteFood

There’s nothing cozier and more comforting than a bubbling casserole of cheesy potatoes in the winter. This rustic side is often prepared in a large gratin dish, which can be plunked in the center of a table for indulgent family-style serving. However, when the holidays beckon and your menu demands a little fancifying, dress up this moreish dish by portioning and baking it in elegant individual ramekins.

Use small (not baby) potatoes for layering into the ramekins. It’s important to slice the potatoes as thinly as possible. A mandoline works best for this task, but you can also carefully cut the potatoes with a knife. Use organic potatoes when possible, and keep the skins on for extra nutrients and texture -- just be sure to give the potatoes a good scrubbing and dry thoroughly before slicing. This recipe can also be prepared in a 2-quart baking dish or gratin.

Potato Gruyere Gratins

Active Time: 20 minutes

Total Time: 1 hour and 20 minutes

Yield: Makes 8 servings

Unsalted butter

1 3/4 cups full-fat sour cream

1/4 cup heavy cream

2 garlic cloves, grated

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

2 pounds small to medium Yukon gold potatoes, washed, very thinly sliced, about 1/8 inch thick

8 ounces Gruyere cheese, grated

Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter 8 (6-ounce or 3/4 cup) ramekins.

Whisk the sour cream, heavy cream, garlic, nutmeg, 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper together in a bowl.

Arrange two layers of potatoes, slightly overlapping, in the ramekins. Spread a layer of the cream mixture over the potatoes and then top with a sprinkling of cheese. Repeat the layering process until the ramekins are full, gently pressing down on each layer. Finish with a layer of sour cream and the grated cheese, then lightly season with salt and black pepper.

Arrange the ramekins on a baking tray and transfer to the oven. Bake until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a knife, and the tops are brown and bubbling, 50 to 60 minutes. (If the tops brown before the potatoes are fully cooked, lightly cover with foil to prevent burning.)

Remove from the oven and let stand for 5 minutes. Serve warm.

581-7500

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

Caption 01: Photo by Lynda Balslev for TasteFood