health

Have Your Mousse Cake and Eat It Too

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | March 22nd, 2021

The name of this dessert is potentially misleading. It’s not exactly a cake, nor is it a bowl of fluffy mousse. But imagine the two concepts combined in a sublime chocolate confection that literally melts in your mouth. It’s flourless, too, which is wonderful for gluten-free diets, Passover, and frankly, for those chocolate fanatics who prefer their chocolate straight up -- or chilled in a springform pan, as it were.

The beauty of this dessert is that for all of its chocolate intensity, it is creamy and smooth without the density and darkness of a traditional flourless chocolate cake. This is thanks to the mousse component with its addition of whipped cream and egg whites. It’s also a convenient do-ahead dessert, since it should be prepared one day in advance of serving. You can prepare it in a loaf pan or a terrine; however, I like to use a 6-inch springform, which allows the dessert to release easily from the pan. While a 6-inch cake might look small, I assure you that each slice is rich and just the right amount of chocolate to finish a meal without knocking you over (if that’s ever possible, that is).

When ready to serve, simply cut it into wedges or slices. Serve as is, or with whipped cream, or with fruit. I had some time on my hands (don’t we all?) and repurposed a bag of frozen raspberries and a pint of kumquats into two fruit garnishes, which happen to complement each other magnificently while embellishing the cake. No pressure, though -- a simple sprinkle of confectioners’ sugar will do just fine, too.

Chocolate Mousse Cake

Active Time: 30 minutes

Total Time: 30 minutes, plus chilling time

Yield: Serves 6 to 8

Neutral vegetable oil for the pan

9 ounces dark (70%) chocolate, chopped

3/4 cup (12 tablespoons) unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces

3 large eggs, separated

3 large egg yolks

3/4 cup sifted confectioners’ sugar

1/4 cup sifted unsweetened cocoa powder

Pinch of sea salt

1/3 cup heavy cream

2 teaspoons granulated sugar

Lightly oil a 1-quart baking dish, loaf pan or springform pan. Line the dish with plastic wrap, leaving an overhang for easy removal. If using a springform, line the bottom with plastic wrap or parchment.

Melt the chocolate and butter in a double boiler over barely simmering water, stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat and cool to lukewarm.

Add the 6 egg yolks to the chocolate and stir to combine.

Whisk together the confectioners’ sugar, cocoa and salt and stir into the chocolate mixture.

Beat the cream in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a whisk attachment until soft peaks form. Transfer to another bowl and refrigerate while you beat the egg whites.

Clean the mixing bowl and then beat the 3 egg whites with the granulated sugar until soft peaks form. Fold the egg whites into the chocolate mixture, then fold in the whipped cream.

Pour the mixture into the pan and smooth the top. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 12 hours or up to two days.

To serve, remove the chocolate from the pan. Slice into wedges. Serve with whipped cream or raspberry coulis and/or candied kumquats (recipes below), or simply dust with confectioners' sugar.

Raspberry Coulis

Makes about 1 cup

10 ounces frozen raspberries

1/4 cup sugar

Combine the raspberries and sugar in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Heat until the sugar dissolves and the raspberries release their juices, stirring frequently, about 8 minutes. Cool and serve as is or strained through a fine-mesh sieve.

Candied Kumquats

Makes about 1 cup

2/3 cup sugar

2/3 cup water

6 ounces kumquats, rinsed and sliced 1/4-inch thick

Heat the sugar and water in a small saucepan over medium heat, stirring until the sugar is dissolved. Add the kumquats and simmer over medium-low heat until the liquid is syrupy and the kumquats are translucent, about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Cool and store the kumquats in the syrup.

Note: Consumption of raw or undercooked eggs may increase the risk of food-borne illness.

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

health

Add a Little Spring to Your Dinner Plate

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | March 15th, 2021

Spring is right around the corner, and while the weather might not look like it’s received the memo in some areas, this recipe is a bit of spring inspiration that will surely lighten up your dinner plate no matter where you sit. It’s a fresh and lovely pasta dish, bright with citrus and brimming with sweet and snappy peas, fresh herbs and baby arugula.

The pasta in this recipe is orzo, which resembles rice, but is in fact made from semolina flour. It’s toothsome and satisfying to eat, and the little morsels bind together this garden-fresh pasta salad. In this recipe the orzo is cooked and drained, and while still warm, tossed with the peas and aromatics to release their flavor. Fresh herbs and arugula are then added to lightly wilt and release their aroma. This is a delicious side dish or a light main course. Either way, it’s guaranteed to bring a breath of fresh air to your kitchen table.

Pea and Orzo Salad

Active Time: 15 minutes

Total Time: 25 minutes

Yield: Serves 3 to 4

12 ounces orzo pasta

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 cup defrosted frozen peas

1 garlic clove, minced

1 teaspoon lemon zest

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 handful baby arugula, about 1 cup packed

1/4 cup fresh mint leaves, chopped

1/4 cup fresh dill sprigs

2 tablespoons chopped chives

Grated Parmesan or crumbled feta cheese for garnish

Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil. Add the orzo and cook until al dente, following package instructions. Drain the orzo and transfer to a large bowl.

Stir in the oil and lemon juice and then add the peas, garlic, lemon zest, salt, red pepper flakes and black pepper. Stir to combine and gently warm the peas. Add the arugula, mint, dill and chives and stir to gently wilt the arugula. If the pasta is too dry, add 1 more tablespoon oil and taste for seasoning. Serve garnished with the grated Parmesan or feta and freshly ground black pepper. Serve at room temperature or chilled.

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

health

Upping Your Mash Game

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | March 8th, 2021

What could be better than a rich and creamy bowl of mashed potatoes? How about a bowl of mashed potatoes infused with celery and horseradish?

This fluffy bowl piles on the roots, with celery root and horseradish joining the mix. The result is a delicious side of potatoes, with an extra dimension of fragrance, flavor and bite.

Celery root, also known as celeriac, is the dark horse of root vegetables. Don't let its gnarly, bulbous exterior put you off. Once you cut away the skin, a milky white interior is revealed, softly redolent with celery. Celery root can be eaten raw and grated into salads, and when cooked, it’s a non-starchy alternative or complement to potatoes in mashes, gratins and soups.

Horseradish is also a root and belongs to the mustard family, which explains its peppery bite. Horseradish is often grated raw and folded into sauces and garnished over meats. Sharp and nutty, horseradish is quite strong when fresh, but its flavor fades and bite softens with cooking, so don’t be deterred by the amount in the recipe.

This is a lovely side dish to accompany meat and stews. The potatoes are left unpeeled, and their nutrient-rich skins fleck this side dish, adding flavor and texture. Peel the potatoes if you prefer a smoother texture.

Mashed Potatoes and Roots

Active Time: 10 minutes

Total Time: 55 minutes

Yield: Serves 6 to 8

1 1/2 pounds Yukon gold potatoes, cut into 1-inch pieces

1 1/2 pounds celery root, peeled, cut into 1-inch pieces

1 bay leaf

3 thyme sprigs

Salt

1/4 cup unsalted butter, softened

1/2 cup sour cream, plus more as needed

4 tablespoons finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, divided

3 tablespoons finely grated peeled fresh horseradish, divided

1/2 teaspoon pepper

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Combine the potatoes and celery root in large pot and cover with cold water. Tie the bay leaf and thyme sprigs with kitchen string to make a bouquet garni and add to the pot along with 1 tablespoon salt. Bring to a boil and simmer, partially covered, until the potatoes and celery root are very tender, about 20 minutes. Drain thoroughly and discard the bouquet garni.

Transfer the vegetables to a large bowl, add the butter, and mash with a potato masher. Stir in the sour cream, 2 tablespoons cheese, 2 tablespoons horseradish and the pepper. If too thick, mix in more sour cream to your desired consistency. Add salt to your taste and mix well. Transfer the potatoes to a buttered 2-quart baking dish.

Mix the remaining 2 tablespoons cheese and 1 tablespoon horseradish in a small bowl. Sprinkle over top of potatoes. Transfer the potatoes to the oven and bake until the top is tinged golden brown and the potatoes are heated through, about 25 minutes. Serve warm.

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

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