Winter is chicory season. Chicories are the often-labeled bitter greens, which include radicchio, endive, puntarelle and escarole. Bunches and heads of chicory are prolific throughout the season, difficult to miss with their with dramatic frilly, spiky and cone-headed leaves. And while their bitterness can be off-putting to some, at winter’s peak, chicories are crisp, juicy, nutty and mildly sweet -- all qualities that pleasantly balance their natural bitterness.

And they are healthy to boot. Fiber-rich and loaded with vitamins C, B and K, and nutrients such as iron, zinc, copper and potassium, chicories are the cold season warriors that will fight to keep you healthy throughout the winter.

The best way to approach these robust greens is to pair them with equally assertive yet balancing ingredients. A general rule to building good flavor is to strike a balance between bitter, sweet, sour and heat. So check those other flavor boxes when smoothing chicory’s bitterness, and be confident that it can handle it.

For instance, when eating fresh chicory leaves, mound them in salads with equally hefty greens and crucifers, such as kale, red cabbage and spinach. Garnish them with dried fruit, nuts and seeds, and finish with sweet and sharp dressings such as a rich balsamic-Dijon vinaigrette or a lemony-anchovy dressing.

When cooking chicories, saute, roast or braise them to temper their bitterness. Cook and season them with flavorful stocks, vinegar or citrus, and a little sugar or honey for a rounded and flavorful effect.

This is my favorite way to cook purple- and red-leafed radicchio. Radicchio’s sturdy head holds up well to braising (and grilling and sauteing; you get the picture). The balsamic vinegar is a great foil. It’s fruity, rich and sharp, and, when cooked, the vinegar reduces to a rich sweet-and-sour syrup that shellacs the wilted radicchio wedges. Choose deeply colored, firm heads that have a little weight to them, and try to purchase similarly sized heads for this recipe to ensure even cooking.

(Note: The photo is a process photo. The finished radicchio will be wilted.)

Balsamic Braised Radicchio

Active Time: 40 minutes

Total Time: 40 minutes

Yield: Serves 3 to 4 as a side dish

4 medium-large heads radicchio

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more as needed

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more as needed

1/3 cup balsamic vinegar

1/4 cup chicken stock, mushroom stock or water

2 tablespoons packed light brown sugar

3 to 4 thyme sprigs

Halve the radicchios top to stem. Using a paring knife, cut out the white stem at the bottom of each half. Then halve each half lengthwise so that you have 16 wedges.

Heat the oil in a large skillet with a lid over medium heat. Arrange the wedges, cut sides down, snugly in the skillet. Cook until slightly colored, 2 to 3 minutes. Using tongs, turn the wedges so that the other cut side is down in the skillet. Season with the salt and black pepper and cook until slightly colored, about 2 minutes more.

Pour the balsamic vinegar over the radicchio and then pour the chicken stock over it. The pan should be about 1/2-inch full of liquid. Top off with additional balsamic or stock if needed. Sprinkle the brown sugar evenly over the radicchio and then scatter the thyme sprigs in the skillet.

Partially cover the skillet and simmer over medium-low heat until the radicchio is crisp-tender when pierced with a knife through the base, 12 to 15 minutes, carefully turning the wedges once or twice. Remove the cover and continue to simmer until the radicchio is soft, 5 to 7 minutes more, turning once or twice to evenly coat and cook.

Using tongs, transfer the radicchio to a serving dish, gently squeezing any excess liquid back into the skillet. Continue to simmer the braising liquid until reduced to a syrupy consistency, 5 to 6 minutes. Discard the thyme sprigs and taste for seasoning. You may need to add a little more salt and black pepper. There should be a balance of sweet, salt, bitter and the kick of black pepper in the flavor.

Drizzle the syrup over the radicchio and serve warm.

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

Are you feeling the winter doldrums? January can be a blue time, post-holidays, when the dust settles and winter stretches ahead. It’s tempting to daydream about far-flung escapes to steamy destinations, away from the cold, snow and darkness. Reality, of course, keeps us home for many practical reasons. So, as the saying goes, instead of cursing the dark, it’s time to light a candle -- or in this case, the stove. If we can’t travel away, then we can bring the taste of travel home to our kitchen.

This is a perfect bowl for a winter day. Khao Poon is a traditional Lao soup with red curry and rice noodles, fragrant with lemongrass and coconut. It’s light, spicy and aromatic, finished with a shower of fresh herbs, bean sprouts and chiles to create a meal in a bowl. Chicken is frequently added, but it’s wonderfully flexible with proteins, including pork and fish, as well as tofu for a vegetarian option. And if that’s not enough to lift your spirits, Khao Poon is a traditional celebratory soup served at Lao weddings and other festive events. So dig in to your bowl and vicariously join the party.

Once all of the ingredients are assembled, this soup comes together in 30 minutes.

Lemongrass Chicken Curry Soup With Rice Noodles

Active Time: 30 minutes

Total Time: 30 minutes

Yield: Serves 4

8 ounces rice vermicelli noodles

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 pound chicken thighs, cut into chunky bite-size pieces

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 large shallot, finely chopped, about 1/4 cup

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon finely grated peeled fresh ginger

3 tablespoons prepared Thai red curry paste, or more to taste

1 teaspoon ground coriander

6 cups chicken broth, divided

1 stalk lemongrass, cut into 3-to-4-inch pieces, lightly smashed

1 (15-ounce) can light coconut milk

1 tablespoon fresh lime juice, plus wedges for serving

1 tablespoon brown sugar

2 teaspoons fish sauce

2 teaspoons Asian hot sauce, such as Sriracha

2 cups bean sprouts

1 cup packed cilantro leaves and tender stems

1 red jalapeno or hot chile pepper, sliced (optional)

Cook the noodles according to the package instructions. Drain and rinse under cold water and set aside.

While the noodles are cooking, heat the oil in a soup pot. Season the chicken with salt and pepper and add to the pot without overcrowding. Cook until colored on all sides, then transfer to a plate with a slotted spoon (the chicken will continue to cook later in the soup).

Pour off all but 1 tablespoon oil from the pot. Add the shallot and saute until softened, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the garlic and ginger and saute until fragrant, about 30 seconds, then stir in the curry paste and coriander and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute more. Whisk in the chicken stock and lemongrass. Taste the stock, and if you prefer a spicier soup, whisk in 1 to 2 more tablespoons of the curry paste.

Return the chicken to the pot and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the coconut milk, lime juice, sugar, fish sauce and hot sauce. Bring to a boil and simmer until the soup is heated through.

Divide the rice noodles between serving bowls. Ladle the soup over the noodles. Garnish with the bean sprouts, cilantro and red chiles. Serve with lime wedges and additional hot sauce.

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

Holiday festivities are muted and gatherings reduced this year, inspiring feelings that toggle between a yearning for glitter and a craving for comfort. How to celebrate and what to eat strive for a balance between these mixed desires. In my mind, the following recipe achieves just that. It’s simple yet elegant, special but not pretentious, and relies on a short list of honest ingredients that drive wonderfully fresh flavor.

I grew up in New England, where lobster is ubiquitous. It’s the quintessential summer food, associated with the seashore and bare feet, picnic tables and messy eating, accessorized by dribbling butter, nutcrackers and paper bibs. Now, many years and moves later, I rarely eat lobster. When I do, it’s usually on special occasions. The once standard summer fare has morphed into a celebratory treat, and there’s no time better for such an indulgence than the holidays, when shellfish and crustaceans go ever so well with a glass of bubbly.

This is a recipe for this time. It’s understated and comforting, yet carries the swag of fresh-cooked lobster meat. The method is simple, allowing the lobster to shine without bogging it down with heavy or precious ingredients; it humbly yet elegantly gives the lobster (and its necessary splurge) the respect and appreciation it deserves.

If you prefer not to use lobster meat, shrimp are an excellent alternative, and they will bump this recipe onto your roster of easy weeknight meals. When using shrimp, simply saute them in olive oil with a pinch of salt before adding them to the dish.

Lobster Spaghetti

Active Time: 30 minutes

Total Time: 30 minutes

Yield: Serves 4

1 pound spaghetti or bucatini

Salt

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 pound grape tomatoes, halved

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more for garnish

1 pound cooked lobster meat, as chunky as possible

1/2 cup loosely packed basil leaves, torn, plus extra for garnish

Lemon wedges

Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a rolling boil. Add the spaghetti and cook 1 minute less than al dente. Drain, reserving 1 cup cooking water.

While the pasta is cooking, heat the oil in a large, deep skillet over medium heat. Add the tomatoes and cook until they begin to break down and their juices release, 8 to 10 minutes, stirring frequently. Stir in the garlic and red pepper flakes and continue to cook until fragrant and the tomatoes soften further, 2 to 3 minutes. Season with the salt and pepper and taste to adjust.

Add the lobster meat to the skillet and stir to coat. Add the drained pasta and 1/4 cup reserved cooking liquid. Continue to cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until the dish is well combined, adding 1/4 cup more liquid at a time to your desired consistency. The sauce should be glossy and evenly coat the spaghetti without being stodgy. Stir in the basil.

Divide the pasta between serving plates and garnish with additional basil, freshly ground black pepper, and a squeeze of lemon.

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS