health

Think Outside the Strawberry Box

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | June 22nd, 2020

To be perfectly clear: Having too many strawberries to eat is hardly a problem. But during this season of berry abundance, inventive ways to incorporate the sweet, sun-kissed strawberry into our meals is always welcome. And I’m not just talking smoothies and desserts. Strawberries are delicious in savory preparations, too, where their sweetness and gentle acidity contribute to light dishes such as salads, sauces, toasts and cheese plates.

This bruschetta recipe showcases the best of the strawberry, piled on toasted bread with a few of its favorite savory ingredients. A creamy, lemon-flecked ricotta cheese anchors peppery arugula to the bread, while a tangy, inky balsamic syrup dresses the berries.

Balsamic syrup is easy to make. It’s a simple reduction of balsamic vinegar with a little sugar, spiked with lemon juice and black pepper for extra zing. When making the syrup, save your pricey balsamic vinegar for another use. A modestly priced supermarket version will do the trick. However, don’t skimp on the ricotta in this bruschetta recipe. Choose a high-quality, fresh ricotta for best results. It should be creamy, sweet and slightly tangy -- not grainy or soupy. A mild, fresh goat cheese is an equally delicious alternative to the ricotta.

Strawberry Ricotta Bruschetta

Active Time: 20 minutes

Total Time: 20 minutes, plus cooling time

Yield: Makes 2

Balsamic syrup:

1/2 cup balsamic vinegar

1 tablespoon packed light brown sugar

1 teaspoon lemon juice

Pinch of freshly ground black pepper

2 slices levain or country-style bread, about 1/2-inch thick

Extra-virgin olive oil

1/4 cup fresh ricotta or soft, fresh goat cheese, room temperature

Finely grated lemon zest

Sea salt

1 cup arugula leaves, washed and dried

4 to 6 strawberries, hulled, thickly sliced

Freshly ground black pepper

Combine the syrup ingredients in small saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a simmer, reduce the heat to medium-low, and continue to simmer until the mixture is reduced by half and syrupy in consistency, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove from the heat and cool to room temperature.

Preheat the oven broiler. Lightly brush the bread slices with olive oil. Broil in the oven until golden brown, turning once.

Smear the ricotta or goat cheese over the bread slices. Lightly sprinkle each bruschetta with lemon zest and a pinch of sea salt. Spread the arugula over the bruschetta and arrange the strawberries over the arugula. Lightly brush the berries with the balsamic syrup and drizzle additional syrup over and around the bruschetta. Garnish with additional lemon zest and black pepper. Serve immediately.

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

health

Falafel Cravings

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | June 15th, 2020

I love falafel, but they can be messy and oily to deep-fry. The solution? Pan-frying. Not only does pan-frying require much less oil, but the flattened patties have more surface area to brown. The edges become crumbly and crisp, and the little bits that break off are good enough to eat on their own -- just saying.

When making your own falafel, you must begin with dried chickpeas, which yield the right crumbly and mealy texture. Falafel should not be soggy or mushy, which is what will happen when you use canned chickpeas. So begin your falafel-making process the night before cooking by soaking the chickpeas overnight in water. The next day, the chickpeas will have tripled in size and will be firm yet tender to the bite. Drain, rinse them well, and pat dry. Then simply blitz them with the remaining ingredients until you have a sticky, mealy texture.

Now, I understand that the overnight soaking defeats any cravings demanding instant gratification -- as most cravings do. With this in mind, I recommend soaking more chickpeas than you need. This way, you can refrigerate or freeze any unused chickpeas for later use. Or make a double batch of the falafel mixture and freeze some of that, instead. Then you will be set the next time the craving for falafel strikes -- because you know it will.

Falafel Fritters

Active Time: 30 minutes

Total Time: 30 minutes, plus overnight soaking and 1 hour chilling time

Yield: Makes about 24 patties

1 pound dried chickpeas

1 small onion, chopped, about 1/2 cup

4 garlic cloves, chopped

1 small jalapeno pepper, seeded, chopped

1/2 cup (packed) Italian parsley, leaves and tender stems

1/2 cup (packed) fresh cilantro, leaves and tender stems

1/4 cup (packed) fresh mint leaves

2 teaspoons salt

2 teaspoons ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

Grapeseed oil for pan-frying

Yogurt Tahini Sauce:

1 cup whole-milk yogurt

1 tablespoon tahini

1 tablespoon lemon juice

2 teaspoons Sriracha

Pinch of salt

The night before making, place the chickpeas in a large bowl. Cover with 3 inches of cold water and let stand overnight. The next day, drain the chickpeas and rinse well, then spread on a kitchen towel and pat dry.

Place the chickpeas in the bowl of a food processor. Process until finely chopped with a consistency of coarse sand. Transfer half of the chickpeas to a bowl. Add the remaining ingredients to the food processor bowl and process to form a coarse paste. Add the reserved chickpeas and pulse to finely blend. The overall consistency should be slightly sticky but not mushy, with small pieces of the chickpeas evident. Transfer to a bowl and taste for seasoning. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Gather the falafel mixture, about 2 tablespoons at a time, and gently form into 1 1/2- to 2-inch patties. Add to the skillet and gently press in the center and around the edges with a spatula to compact. Pan-fry until the fritters are deep golden in color on both sides, 6 to 8 minutes, using the spatula to carefully flip. Transfer to a plate lined with a paper towel and repeat with the remaining mixture.

Whisk the Yogurt Tahini Sauce ingredients in a small bowl. Serve the falafel with the sauce, lemon wedges and additional Sriracha if desired.

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

health

A Veggie-Full Summer Chowder

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | June 8th, 2020

Yes, you can eat warm soup in the summer -- especially when it’s chowder. Clam and fish chowders evoke sunshine, seafood and the seashore. While clam chowder is always a favorite, I prefer to make fish chowders, loaded with chunky fish swimming in a smoky, creamy broth.

When making a fish chowder, always choose a firm-fleshed fish, which will hold its shape when cooking in the soup. Delicate, flat filets will flake and dissolve in the broth. While halibut, sea bass and cod are always good options, I prefer salmon. Salmon’s buttery-rich flesh complements the creamy stock, and when possible, I’ll combine chunks of warm-smoked salmon with fresh salmon. Warm-smoked salmon adds the salty, smoky note essential to a deeply flavorful chowder (this is often achieved with bacon in clam chowders), and has a dry and firm consistency, unlike cold-smoked salmon, which is soft and slippery.

Potatoes are another key ingredient, adding thickening starch and substance. And while you can certainly stop there, I encourage adding additional vegetables, such as leafy greens and crucifers, such as cauliflower or broccoli. Then you can pat yourself on the back and call your bowl of chowder a complete meal.

In this recipe, handfuls of fresh spinach and cauliflower florets are included. If you’re skeptical about the extra veggies, don’t worry -- the creamy, robust chowder can handle them. In fact, the vegetables add a welcome earthiness to the rich soup and balance the creaminess. If you are cauliflower-averse, feel free to omit it and add more spinach.

Be sure to taste for seasoning when the soup is finished. Depending on the saltiness of the smoked salmon, you may need more salt, and don’t (ever) skimp on the freshly ground black pepper.

Salmon and Spinach Chowder

Active Time: 35 minutes

Total Time: 35 minutes

Yield: Serves 4

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 medium yellow onion, chopped, about 1 cup

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

4 cups water

2 medium Yukon gold potatoes, cut into bite-sized pieces (peeling optional -- I like keeping the skin on)

1 1/2 cups bite-sized cauliflower florets

1 cup heavy cream

1/2 teaspoon Tabasco, or more to taste

1/2 teaspoon sweet paprika

1/2 teaspoon salt, or more to taste

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 pound salmon filet, skin and pin-bones removed, cut in 3/4-inch chunks

1/2 pound warm-smoked salmon filet, skin and pin-bones removed, broken into bite-size chunks

1 large handful baby spinach leaves

Fresh dill for garnish

Heat the oil and melt the butter in a large pot over medium heat. Add the onion and saute until softened without coloring, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the flour and cook until slightly toasty in aroma, 1 to 2 minutes, stirring constantly.

Pour in the water and whisk to blend. Add the potatoes and cauliflower. The vegetables should be submerged in the soup. If not, add more water to cover. Bring to a boil, partially cover the pot, and simmer until the vegetables are tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Stir in the cream, Tabasco, paprika, salt and black pepper.

Add the fresh and smoked salmon and simmer until the fresh salmon is cooked, 4 to 6 minutes. Stir in the spinach and simmer until just wilted, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Taste for seasoning.

Ladle into soup bowls and garnish with dill. Serve immediately.

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

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