Do you prefer cookies or bars? I stand with bars. Simply put, they are easy to bake -- just spread the batter in one pan at once. I also prefer the texture of a bar, with its crunchy top and crisp edges that give way to gooey center that melts in the mouth. And lastly, I think bars store better. I know, I know, who am I kidding. It's not like these sweets don't get gobbled up before you can say brown butter, right? It's true, though. I find that bars freeze exceptionally well, and don't dry out, unlike cookies -- or at least the cookies I make.

And speaking of brown butter: Whether it's a cookie or a bar you're baking, brown butter is that extra ingredient that tips a sweet from good to decadent. Brown butter adds a golden, nutty, butterscotchy color and flavor. The method to brown butter is simple. Melt the butter and continue to cook it until it takes on a deep golden, light brown color with a toasty aroma. The key is to keep an eye on the butter, since it can go from light brown to dark brown to burnt very quickly. It's not the time to step away from the stove and water your plants.

These blondies include toffee, which makes for a sweet and very butterscotchy bar. Finely chopped bittersweet chocolate helps to balance out the sweetness of the batter.

Brown Butter Toffee Bars

Active Time: 15 minutes

Total Time: 45 minutes

Yield: Makes about 25 (1 1/2-inch) bars

1 cup unsalted butter, melted and browned, cooled

1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 cup (packed) dark brown sugar

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1 large egg plus 1 egg yolk

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 cup chopped toffee bars, about 5 ounces

1/2 cup finely chopped bittersweet chocolate, about 2 ounces

Sea salt for sprinkling, optional

Melt the butter in a medium heavy-bodied saucepan over medium heat, whisking frequently. Continue to heat the melted butter until it begins to foam and then subsides, 4 to 5 minutes. Continue to cook until the butter has a deep amber color with a nutty, toasted aroma. Keep a careful eye on the butter, since it can quickly go from brown to burnt. When the butter has browned, remove the pan from the heat and pour the butter into a heat-resistant bowl to stop the cooking process. Cool completely. (At this point, you can use the butter as-is, or strain the butter through a cheesecloth or fine-mesh strainer to remove the brown bits. For this recipe, keep the brown bits for extra flavor.)

Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter an 8-by-8-inch baking pan and line with parchment.

Combine the flour, baking soda and salt in a small bowl.

Whisk the sugars, egg and yolk in a large bowl until light, about 3 minutes. Whisk in the cooled butter and vanilla until smooth. Add the flour mixture and stir to combine. Stir in the toffee and chocolate.

Spread the batter in the prepared pan. Sprinkle with sea salt, if using. Transfer to the oven and bake until golden and a toothpick inserted comes clean, about 30 minutes. Cool completely on a rack. Cut into squares.

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This bowl of pasta is the essence of early spring, a time of the season that brings a conflicting message of gentle sunshine and gray days with cool rain. Crispy pancetta swathed in cream and cheese provides winter warmth, while sweet peas and delicate pea tendrils add freshness and earthy fragility, an early hint from a garden awakening from its winter slumber.

No worries if you can’t get your hands on pea tendrils, which are the wispy shoots of the snow pea plant. This dish is equally delicious simply with pancetta and peas. And while you may be tempted to use fresh peas, frozen peas are best for this dish. Save the fresh peas for munching fresh from the pod.

Spring Pea Pasta

Active Time: 20 minutes

Total Time: 20 minutes

Yield: Serves 4 to 5

1 pound orecchiette

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

4 ounces pancetta, finely diced

1 garlic clove, minced

1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1 cup heavy cream

1/4 cup chicken stock

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 cup frozen peas, defrosted

1/2 cup (packed) finely grated Pecorino Romano cheese

2 cups pea shoots, loosely packed

Finely grated lemon zest for garnish, optional

Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil. Add the pasta and cook until al dente according to the package instructions. Drain.

While the pasta is cooking, heat the oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add the pancetta and saute until beginning to crisp and the fat renders, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to a plate lined with a paper towel.

Drain all but 1 tablespoon fat from the skillet. Add the garlic and red pepper flakes and saute until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the cream, stock, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium-low, and simmer until the cream is slightly reduced and thickened, about 5 minutes, stirring frequently.

Stir in the peas and pancetta and simmer until heated through. Add the pasta and cheese and stir to combine. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the pea shoots. Serve warm garnished with the lemon zest.

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In honor of Easter, Passover and spring, I share this roasted lamb recipe. Mind you, this is not your traditional springtime lamb roast studded with garlic and served with mint (which is always a good option, of course). Instead, this roast veers to North Africa with a generous smear of chermoula, a heady concoction of aromatic spices, fresh herbs, chiles and garlic. Consider it Easter break on holiday -- a spring fling for culinary travelers.

Chermoula is a flavorful and versatile condiment in Moroccan, Libyan and Tunisian cuisines. It’s used as a marinade and garnish for fish, meats and vegetables, and it can also be swirled into rice and couscous dishes. Recipes for chermoula vary from region to region and cook to cook, but the gist is to use fistfuls of fresh green herbs, such as parsley, cilantro and mint, and plenty of spice, such as cumin and coriander. While it’s a long list of ingredients, it’s easily blitzed in a food processor in just a few minutes. The end result should be bright, sharp and aromatic with a kick of heat. Ideally, toast and grind whole spices for best flavor, but pre-ground spices will do just fine.

The meat is served over a platter of spring greens, lightly dressed with lemon and olive oil. Choose a selection of sturdy greens that are a mix of bitter, peppery and sweet. The cooking juices from the lamb will slightly wilt leaves, for a refreshing contrast that mirrors the season. And, for best flavor results, begin marinating the lamb the night before roasting.

Lamb Chermoula With Spring Greens

Active Time: 20 minutes

Cooking Time: 1 1/2 to 2 1/4 hours

Marinating Time: 24 hours, plus 1 hour standing time

Yield: Serves 6 to 8

Chermoula:

4 cloves garlic

1 cup Italian flat leaf parsley sprigs

1 cup cilantro sprigs

1/2 cup fresh mint leaves

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon sweet paprika

1/2 teaspoon ground coriander

1/2 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, or more as needed

Lamb:

1 (5- to 6-pound) semi-boneless leg of lamb, fat trimmed

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

6 cups mixed spring greens such as frisee, mustard greens, mizuna, arugula

1 small handful mint leaves, coarsely torn

1/4 cup flat-leaf parsley and/or cilantro leaves

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

2 tablespoons toasted pine nuts

Begin marinating the lamb one day before serving. Place all of the chermoula ingredients, except the olive oil, in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse to coarsely chop. Add the oil and process to blend. The chermoula should have a runny paste consistency. If needed, add a little more oil to achieve this consistency.

Place the lamb in a large bowl and season on all sides with salt and black pepper. Rub the chermoula all over the lamb. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. One hour before roasting, remove the lamb from the refrigerator and let stand at room temperature.

Heat the oven to 425 degrees.

Roast the lamb for 20 minutes, then reduce the heat to 350 degrees. Cook until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the meat (not touching the bone) reaches 135 degrees for medium-rare, 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours, depending on the size of the lamb. Transfer to a cutting board and let rest for at least 15 minutes to allow the juices to collect.

While the lamb is resting, place the greens, mint and parsley and/or cilantro in a large bowl. Drizzle with the oil and lemon juice. Sprinkle the lemon zest over, lightly season with salt and pepper, and toss to coat.

Carve the lamb into 1/2-inch-thick slices. Spread the greens on a serving platter. Arrange the lamb in the center. Drizzle any collected lamb juices over the meat and greens and scatter the pine nuts over. Serve warm.

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