health

Do-Ahead Desserts Are a Perfect Holiday Gift for the Cook

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | December 16th, 2019

Are you still unsure of what to make for a party dessert this season? Try this light and luscious semifreddo, topped with a compote of port-wine poached figs. Fragrant with orange and spice, it's reminiscent of English Christmas puddings and mulled wine.

A semifreddo is an elegant frozen Italian concoction of whipped cream and meringue, which, in this preparation, is flecked with toasted almonds and orange zest. Each bite is ethereal, melting on the tongue in a light and airy poof. For a little extra sweetness (it's Christmas after all), a shard of caramelized almond praline crowns the dessert.

The beauty of this recipe is that each component may be prepared at least a day in advance, so all that you need to do is assemble it when you are ready to serve, which is a perfect gift to the cook when entertaining.

Orange Almond Semifreddo With Port-Wine Poached Figs

Active Time: 1 hour and 15 minutes

Total Time: 1 hour and 15 minutes, plus cooling and freezing time

Yield: Serves 8

Semifreddo:

3/4 cup whole almonds

2 tablespoons plus 1/2 cup granulated sugar

1 teaspoon finely grated orange zest

Pinch of salt

3 large egg whites, room temperature

1 cup heavy cream, chilled

1 teaspoon orange liqueur, such as Cointreau

1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract

Figs Compote:

16 dried figs, stems removed, halved if large

3/4 cup port wine

1/4 cup brown sugar

1 (3-inch) cinnamon stick

2 tablespoons orange liqueur, such as Cointreau

Zest and juice of 1/2 orange

Praline:

3/4 cup granulated sugar

1/2 cup sliced almonds, lightly toasted

1/4 teaspoon sea salt

Prepare the semifreddo:

Line a 9-by-5-inch loaf pan with plastic, leaving a 3-inch overhang.

Place the almonds and the 2 tablespoons sugar in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse until finely ground. Add the orange zest and salt and pulse once or twice to blend.

Beat the egg whites in the bowl of an electric mixer until they begin to hold soft peaks. Add the 1/2 cup sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time, beating until the egg whites are glossy and hold stiff peaks. Transfer to a large bowl.

In a clean mixing bowl, beat the cream, orange liqueur and vanilla extract until soft peaks form. Gently fold the egg whites into the cream until no traces are visible. Gently fold the almonds into the egg whites until evenly distributed. Spoon into the prepared loaf pan and smooth the top. Cover tightly with plastic. Freeze at least 8 hours or overnight.

Prepare the figs:

Combine all of the compote ingredients in a heavy medium saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, partially covered, until the figs are soft but still hold their shape, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove and cool completely in the liquid; discard the cinnamon stick. (Figs may be prepared up to 2 days in advance. Refrigerate until use. Bring to room temperature to serve.)

Prepare the praline:

Heat the sugar in a heavy small saucepan over medium heat until it melts, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon. Continue to cook, stirring constantly, until sugar turns amber in color. Add the almonds and sea salt and stir quickly to coat. Pour onto a baking sheet lined with parchment and spread into a thin layer. Do not touch with your fingers. Cool completely. Break into small pieces.

Serve:

When ready to serve, remove the semifreddo from the loaf pan. Working quickly, cut in 3/4-inch slices and arrange on serving plates or shallow bowls. Spoon figs and a little juice over the semifreddo and garnish with praline shards. Serve immediately.

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

health

'Tis the Season for Spirits -- In Your Food as Well as Your Glass

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | December 9th, 2019

In this window of time between Thanksgiving turkey and Christmas excess, take a break from fancy feasts and indulge in a robust and rustic one-pot meal. This wine- and brandy-laced stew is guaranteed to warm you in the cold weather. After all, while libations are certainly for sipping, don’t overlook their power to enhance flavor in food, such as this pork and prune stew fortified with Armagnac. If this recipe doesn’t warm you, I’m not sure what will.

Armagnac is a brandy produced in the southwestern region of France. Like cognac, Armagnac is derived from grapes -- but the difference veers subtly from there. While cognac is twice distilled, yielding a smoother pour, Armagnac is distilled only once, which lends more nuance, character and complexity to its flavor. And while this certainly makes for intriguing and wonderful sipping, it also adds delightful complexity to soups, stews, sauces, even desserts.

In this recipe, Armagnac teams up with luscious prunes and pork to create a rich and homey stew perfumed with juniper and rosemary. Just remember to pour yourself a splash to enjoy while you are preparing the meal.

Pork Stew With Prunes and Armagnac

Active Time: 30 minutes

Total Time: 3 to 3 1/2 hours, plus steeping time

Yield: Serves 6

20 prunes, pitted

1/2 cup Armagnac brandy

3 pounds pork shoulder, excess fat trimmed, meat cut into 1 1/2-inch chunks

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 ounces bacon, coarsely chopped

2 large carrots, chopped

3 medium shallots, chopped

3 garlic cloves, chopped

1 bottle full-bodied red wine

1 cup demi-glace or high-quality beef stock

1 bouquet garni: 4 juniper berries, 3 rosemary sprigs, 2 thyme sprigs and 2 bay leaves wrapped in cheesecloth and tied with a kitchen string

Combine the prunes and Armagnac in a bowl and let stand at least 1 hour.

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.

Season the pork on all sides with salt and pepper. Heat the olive oil over medium-high heat in a Dutch oven or oven-proof pot with a lid. Add the pork in batches, without overcrowding, and brown on all sides. Transfer to a bowl and repeat with the remaining pork.

Pour off all but 1 tablespoon pork fat from the pan. Add the bacon and saute until its fat renders. Add the carrots and shallots and saute until the shallots soften and the carrots are crisp-tender, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the garlic and saute until fragrant, about 1 minute.

Return the pork and any accumulated juices to the pan. Add the prunes and Armagnac, the wine, beef stock, bouquet garni, 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon black pepper. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer. Cover the pan, transfer to the oven, and cook until the meat is very tender, 2 1/2 to 3 hours, stirring once every hour or so.

Remove the stew from the oven, discard the bouquet garni, and taste for seasoning. Serve with mashed potatoes, polenta or crusty bread.

(The stew may be prepared up to two days in advance. Warm over low heat or in a 300-degree oven before serving.)

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

health

Spice Up Your Holidays With These European-Style Cookies

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | December 2nd, 2019

Speculoos (or speculaas) is a Belgian and Dutch Christmas cookie. They are simple, crisp cookies, very spiced yet not overly sweet, and similar to a gingersnap. Traditionally, they are made with a special mold, called a springerle mold, in which the dough is placed and pressed, yielding quaint reliefs, such as windmills, angels, cottages and St. Nicholas. If you don’t have a mold, the dough can simply be shaped in balls and pressed with your fingers, or rolled thin and cut with a cookie cutter.

It’s the spice blend that sets these cookies apart. In Europe you can purchase pre-made speculoos spice blends, yet it’s very easy to make your own, as it’s essentially a laundry list of Asian and East Indian spices that you most likely have in your spice drawer. As with most blends, speculoos blends can vary slightly from baker to baker. The key is to not hold back on any of the spices and include a generous amount in the cookie batter, because it’s the kick of spice that distinguishes these fragrant cookies.

Speculoos Cookies

Active Time: 30 minutes

Total Time: 45 minutes, plus chilling time

Makes about 3 dozen cookies

Spice blend:

2 teaspoons cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground ginger

1/2 teaspoon nutmeg

1/2 teaspoon ground cloves

1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom

1/4 teaspoon ground coriander

1/4 teaspoon white pepper

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1/2 cup almond flour or finely ground almonds

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 cup dark brown sugar, packed

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened

1 large egg

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Sliced almonds for garnish

Demerara sugar for sprinkling

Mix the spice blend ingredients in a bowl to blend. Add the flour, almonds, baking soda and salt, and stir to combine.

Cream the brown sugar and butter in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a paddle attachment until light and fluffy. Add the egg and vanilla and mix to combine. Add the dry ingredients and mix on medium-low speed until just combined, without overmixing. Gather the dough and flatten into a disk. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

Heat the oven to 350 degrees and line a baking sheet with parchment.

Roll out the dough 1/8- to 1/4-inch thick and cut into desired shapes with a cookie cutter. (Alternatively, shape the dough into 1-inch balls and place on the prepared baking sheet, at least 2 inches apart. Flatten each ball with your fingers or the bottom of a water glass into 1 1/2-inch disks.) Press a few almonds into the top of each cookie and sprinkle with a pinch of demerara sugar.

Bake until light golden and firm, 12 to 14 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and cool completely. The cookies will harden as they cool. Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to one week.

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