The star of this summer salad is Moroccan couscous. Couscous is often referred to as a grain, but this is a misnomer. These tiny morsels are grainy in appearance, but they are made from semolina and water and rolled into tiny granules. So, in fact, couscous is a type of pasta (and not gluten-free).

To confuse matters further, there are several types of couscous. Israeli or pearl couscous consists of larger globules, about the size of small pearls or peppercorns. They are toasty and chewier. Lebanese couscous is an even larger variation and less commonly found in the supermarkets. Moroccan or North African couscous is the finest and easiest to cook, due to its size. It merely needs to steam or steep in hot water for several minutes to soften. It has a mild and slightly nutty taste that provides a blank slate for absorbing flavor.

Couscous is also notable for its versatility. Add a smattering of spices to the hot water in which it steeps, and the couscous will obligingly absorb the aromatics and drive deep flavor into a dish. Use it as an accompaniment to stews, such as North African tagines, or as a side dish in pilafs and a neutral substitute for rice.

Couscous is delicious served warm or at room temperature and is a hearty base for salads. Top with cooked chicken, feta cheese or roasted vegetables. In this salad, the couscous is infused with Mediterranean spices and lemon and tossed with a generous amount of fresh green herbs. It provides a bright and aromatic bed for roasted onions and tomatoes, which blanket the couscous and infuse the grains with their pan juice.

Couscous Salad With Blistered Tomatoes and Red Onions

Active time: 15 minutes

Total time: 45 minutes

Yield: Serves 4 to 6

1 pint grape tomatoes

8 to 10 baby red onions, halved, or 2 to 3 small red onions, cut in wedges

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Couscous:

1 1/2 cups couscous

1 1/3 cups boiling water

2 large garlic cloves, minced

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1/2 teaspoon sweet paprika

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 teaspoon cayenne

1/2 cup packed fresh parsley leaves and tender stems, finely chopped

1/2 cup packed fresh cilantro leaves and tender stems, finely chopped

1/2 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest, plus more for garnish

Chopped fresh mint leaves for garnish

Lemon wedges for serving

Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Toss the tomatoes, onions and 2 tablespoons olive oil in a bowl to coat. Spread on a rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment. Season with salt and black pepper. Roast in the oven until the tomatoes collapse and release their juices, and the onions are lightly charred and tender, about 30 minutes.

While the vegetables are roasting, combine the couscous, water, garlic, 2 tablespoons olive oil, the lemon juice, cumin, coriander, paprika, salt, black pepper and cayenne in a bowl. Cover the bowl and let stand until the liquid is absorbed and the couscous is tender, about 15 minutes. Fluff the couscous with a fork, then stir in the parsley, cilantro and lemon zest. Taste for seasoning.

Spread the couscous on a serving platter. Top with the tomatoes, onions and pan juices. Garnish with the mint, additional lemon zest, and lemon wedges for squeezing. Serve warm or at room temperature.

581-7500

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

Caption 01: Photo by Lynda Balslev for TasteFood

I am a glutton when it comes to summer stone fruit. There is a window of time when nectarines, peaches, apricots and plums run rampant at the market. Mottled in vibrant swaths of purple, crimson and orange, their flesh is a perfect balance of sweet, tang and winey flavors. I could eat them all day long, but then my stomach would hurt.

When these fruity gifts are abundant, I usually overshop. It is an issue. My kitchen counters are lined with bowls and platters piled with fruit. So it’s no surprise that, even in my house, all the fruit can’t be eaten at their peak of ripeness. Some pieces become a little too ripe, buried at the bottom of the bowl, or even passed over for the newest batch from the market. As mentioned, I have indulgence issues.

This is an opportunity to make a crisp. It’s the dessert equivalent to a homey vegetable soup. Gather up all the ripe, somewhat passed fruit (as you might with vegetables for a soup), cut and chop, and spread a thick layer in a compact baking dish. Garnish with berries, if you like -- we’re talking summer fruit, after all -- and pile on a streusel topping.

In this recipe, raspberries team up with nectarines. The natural tartness of the raspberries matches the juicy tang of the nectarines. A little sugar and lemon help to produce a rich, murky, sweet-but-not-cloying filling. Once baked, it should cool to allow the filling to set and let the flavors develop. Serve slightly warm or at room temperature.

Nectarine and Raspberry Crisp

Active time: 15 minutes

Total time: 1 hour

Yield: Serves 6

Topping:

1 cup all-purpose flour

1/2 cup old-fashioned oats

1/2 cup brown sugar

1/4 cup granulated sugar

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

3/4 cup unsalted butter, cut in small cubes

Filling:

2 pounds nectarines (about 8) pitted, cut in 3/4-inch chunks

8 ounces raspberries

3 tablespoons sugar

Finely grated zest of 1/2 lemon

1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom

Prepare the topping: Combine the flour, oats, sugars, cinnamon and salt in a bowl of a food processor. Pulse to combine. Add the butter and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse meal. (The topping may be prepared one day in advance. Cover and refrigerate until use.)

Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Combine the nectarines and raspberries in a 2-quart baking dish. Sprinkle the sugar, lemon zest and cardamom over the fruit and gently stir to combine. Cover the fruit evenly with a thick layer of topping.

Bake in the oven until the fruit is bubbling and the topping is golden brown, about 45 minutes. Remove and cool on a rack. As the crisp cools, the filling will set. Serve slightly warm or at room temperature with vanilla ice cream or whipped cream.

581-7500

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

Caption 01: Photo by Lynda Balslev for TasteFood

This installment of Salad Days of Summer is a recipe for your dinner repertoire. Steak salads make for a fresh and substantial bowl that you can call a meal. I call it a leftovers salad -- it was, in fact, composed of leftover steak and green beans when it was prepared -- but "grilled steak salad" sounds more enticing.

If you don't happen to have cold steak and cooked beans lurking in your refrigerator, you can easily make this recipe from scratch. However, I believe that if you go to the trouble of paying for and grilling a nice piece of steak, you should enjoy it hot off the grill. I suggest purchasing a little extra so that you can have your grilled steak dinner -- and then the wonderful "problem" of leftovers to make this salad.

This recipe includes methods for both grilling the steak and cooking fresh beans, should you decide to concoct the salad from scratch. Note that French haricots verts may be used for the green beans. Haricots verts are thinner than the Blue Lake variety we simply call green beans. Their flavor is slightly sweeter and more delicate, and they will cook faster, since they are so fine. Avocado is another optional ingredient. A bright balsamic vinaigrette does double duty as a dressing that binds the salad and a quick marinade for the meat. And feel free to have fun with fresh herbs. Basil is added to this salad; tarragon, chervil and chives would also make nice additions.

Grilled Steak and Green Bean Salad

Active time: 30 minutes

Total time: 30 minutes

Yield: Serves 3 to 4

Vinaigrette:

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 garlic clove, minced or pushed through a press

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Salad:

1 New York strip steak, about 12 ounces (purchase more if you want your steak dinner first)

Extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

8 ounces green beans, ends trimmed

1 head butter lettuce, leaves washed, torn into large pieces

4 to 6 Early Girl tomatoes, cut into wedges

1 avocado, cut in bite-size pieces (optional)

1/2 small red onion, thinly sliced

1/4 cup small basil leaves, torn (or 2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon leaves)

Whisk the vinegar, lemon juice, garlic, mustard, salt and pepper in a bowl. Add the oil in a steady stream, whisking to emulsify.

Prepare the grill for direct cooking over high heat. Lightly brush the steak with oil and season on all sides with the salt and pepper. Grill the steak until medium-rare, about 8 minutes, depending on thickness, turning once or twice. Transfer to a cutting board and let rest for 5 minutes.

Cut the steak across the grain in 1/4-inch slices. Place the meat in a bowl. Drizzle with 3 tablespoons of the vinaigrette and turn to coat.

Bring a medium pot of salted water to a boil. Add the beans and cook until bright green and crisp-tender, 1 to 2 minutes. (Alternatively, steam the beans.) Drain and run under cold water to stop the cooking process. Blot dry with a kitchen towel.

Layer the lettuce, green beans, tomatoes, avocado (if using), onion and basil in a serving bowl. Remove the steak from the marinade and arrange over the salad. Drizzle with the dressing to your taste and gently toss.

581-7500

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

Caption 01: Photo by Lynda Balslev for TasteFood