health

Salad Days of Summer

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | July 3rd, 2023

Nothing beats a leafy, brimming bowl layered with fresh garden pickings and the farmers market bounty. Sweet corn and juicy tomatoes are ripe headliners in high summer and pair up in this vibrant salad inspired by Italian panzanella. Panzanella translates to bread (pane) and a deep plate or bowl (zanella). It’s a Tuscan and Umbrian bread and tomato salad that relies on stale bread, which is refreshed in the juice of salted ripe tomatoes and tossed with a simple vinaigrette.

The recipe below is not entirely traditional, but it expresses the gist of a panzanella salad, with grilled croutons and exuberantly ripe and juicy tomatoes. Pops of fresh corn kernels are added to the summery mix, along with quick-pickled red onions and an herbaceous basil vinaigrette.

This salad is a sum of components that are prepared individually, then combined. Note that the dressing is thicker in consistency than a traditional vinaigrette, so if you prefer a runnier dressing, add more oil to thin it out (and be sure to adjust the seasoning). Take the time to soak the onions; this method softens their pungency and amplifies their natural sweetness. Grilled bread adds a hint of char and depth of flavor to the salad. As for the corn, I recommend using fresh raw corn kernels. In-season corn kernels are a summer delight. They are crisp and juicy with a delicate milky sweetness. Cooking the corn increases their sweetness, softens the kernels and dulls their fresh-picked grassy flavor.

Tomato and Corn Panzanella Salad

Active time: 20 minutes

Total time: 40 minutes

Yield: Serves 4 to 6

Dressing:

2 cups packed fresh basil leaves

1 garlic clove, chopped

2 tablespoons fresh red wine vinegar

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Salad:

1/2 medium red onion, thinly sliced

2 to 3 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1/2 French or Italian baguette

Extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt

4 ounces mixed greens, such as arugula and red bibb lettuce leaves

Kernels from two ears of yellow or bicolor corn

1 pound ripe tomatoes, such as Early Girl or heirloom, cut into bite-size chunks or wedges

Combine all the dressing ingredients except the oil in the bowl of a food processor and pulse to chop. Add the oil and process to blend. Transfer to a bowl. The dressing should have a salsa consistency. If you prefer it runnier, add more oil to your taste.

Place the onion in a small bowl. Sprinkle the vinegar over it and stir to coat. Let stand for about 20 minutes. Drain and blot onions dry with a kitchen towel.

Halve the baguette lengthwise. Brush the cut sides with oil and lightly season with salt. Grill or broil until golden and charred in spots, turning once, about 4 minutes. Remove, and when cool to the touch, tear into bite-size pieces.

Combine the greens, corn, tomatoes, onion and bread in a serving bowl. Drizzle with some of the dressing and toss to combine. Serve with more dressing to your taste.

581-7500

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

Caption 01: Photo by Lynda Balslev for TasteFood

health

Do Eat the Flowers

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | June 26th, 2023

Don’t miss the fleeting season for zucchini flowers or squash blossoms. These floppy flowers are easy to spot at the farmers markets in the summer. Sunny orange in color and delicate as tissue, they are hard to overlook. The fragile blossoms are best when fresh and unpackaged, so they're less commonly found in supermarkets.

If you are lucky to access squash blossoms, there are many ways to prepare them. A traditional Italian method is to stuff them with a soft cheese, such as mozzarella, ricotta or goat; a few aromatics, such as chopped herbs and garlic; and a pinch of seasoning. The flowers are then deep-fried in oil or pan-fried in a skillet. The results are crisp, golden and oozing with melty cheese.

A lighter, easier option is to simply saute them in butter or olive oil and serve with pasta, or layer them in cheesy quesadillas and egg dishes. The blossoms can also be served raw; their flavor is mild and vegetal. Toss them into salads, or chop and sprinkle as a garnish over soups, stews and roasted vegetables.

This recipe showcases zucchini flowers simply as they are -- scattered over a white pizza (no red sauce) with chiles and cheese. The flowers will shrivel and char while roasting, creating a colorful, textural topping. To make the pizza, you can use a prepared pizza dough, but nothing beats making your own dough. The dough recipe included below is a reliable David Tanis recipe. Once the dough is prepared, it can be used immediately, but if you have time, let it rest in the refrigerator for several hours or, better yet, overnight for best flavor. It’s a double recipe, so you can freeze one crust for later use. Defrost the frozen dough at room temperature or overnight in the refrigerator.

Squash Blossom and Chile Pizza

Active time: 15 minutes

Total time: 30 minutes

Yield: Makes one large pizza

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 garlic clove, minced

Kosher salt

1 prepared pizza dough, about 1 pound

1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1 cup finely grated Pecorino Romano cheese

1/2 small yellow onion, thinly sliced, about 1/2 cup

1 heaping cup thinly sliced small sweet peppers, such as Jimmy Nardello, cherry or mini-bell peppers

2 to 3 tablespoons chopped drained jarred Calabrian chiles

8 squash blossoms, quartered lengthwise

1 (8-ounce) fresh mozzarella ball, patted dry and thinly sliced

1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano leaves

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Prepare the grill for indirect cooking over high heat (about 500 degrees for a gas grill) and preheat a pizza stone for at least 15 minutes. (Or preheat the oven to 500 degrees. Place a pizza stone on the lowest oven rack and preheat for at least 15 minutes).

Whisk the oil, garlic and a pinch of salt in a small bowl.

Stretch the dough out as thinly as possible and lay on a pizza peel (or rimless baking sheet lined with parchment). Lightly brush with the oil. Sprinkle the red pepper flakes over the oil. Sprinkle half of the Pecorino Romano over the pizza. Top with the onions, then the sweet peppers and the Calabrian chiles. Arrange the squash blossoms over the vegetables, then place the mozzarella around the squash. Sprinkle the oregano and black pepper over the pizza. Top with the remaining Pecorino.

Slide the pizza onto the pizza stone. Close the grill lid and grill until the pizza is golden brown, about 15 minutes (or cook in the oven). Remove and immediately brush the crust with some of the oil. Let stand for 5 minutes. Drizzle any remaining oil over the pizza. Cut into serving pieces and serve.

Pizza Dough

Active time: 15 minutes

Total time: 45 minutes, plus refrigeration time

Yield: 2 pounds; makes 2 large crusts

2 teaspoons dry active yeast

4 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus extra for dusting

2 teaspoons kosher salt

2 tablespoons olive oil

Put 1 3/4 cups lukewarm water in a mixing bowl (or use a stand mixer or food processor). Sprinkle the yeast over the water and let it dissolve, about 2 minutes.

Add the flour, salt and olive oil and mix well until the flour is incorporated and the dough comes together, about 5 minutes. It may look a little rough.

Lightly dust a work surface with flour. Turn the dough out onto the surface and knead lightly until smooth, 3 to 4 minutes. Cut the dough into 2 equal pieces, each about 1 pound.

Wrap the dough individually in resealable zipper bags and refrigerate for several hours or overnight.

To use the dough, form each piece into a smooth, firm ball and place on a flour-dusted or parchment-lined baking sheet. Flour lightly, cover loosely with plastic wrap and top with a kitchen towel. Let rise in a warm spot until doubled in size, about 30 minutes. Each dough half will make one large pizza.

581-7500

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

Caption 01: Photo by Lynda Balslev for TasteFood

health

Add a Little Bling to Grilled Eggplant

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | June 19th, 2023

Eggplant on the grill is a summer favorite. A brush of olive oil, a sprinkle of salt and the fire of the grill are all that’s needed to transform firm, spongy eggplant wedges and planks into crispy-squidgy versions of themselves. But why stop there?

Take it up a notch with a recipe inspired by Yotam Ottolenghi, the Israel-born British chef and cookbook author. In his recipe, he roasts wedges of eggplant doused in a chermoula-infused oil heady with North African spice, and then tops it with an herby bulgur salad and creamy yogurt for a beautiful and substantial vegetarian dish.

The recipe below is a lighter, simplified adaptation. It focuses exclusively on the eggplant and garnishes it with an herbaceous gremolata studded with bits of preserved lemon. It’s bright and fresh, a lovely side dish that can be served warm or at room temperature.

Ideally, choose long, narrow eggplants and cut them into narrow wedges. Alternatively, cut thick slices lengthwise from globe eggplants. Score the flesh of the eggplant with crisscross incisions. This is an important step in the cooking process, as it allows the spiced oil to infuse the flesh while providing lots of edges and ridges to char and crisp while cooking. Grill the slices over indirect heat (or roast in the oven) slowly to allow them to cook until they are meltingly soft and buttery.

Eggplant Chermoula

Active time: 45 minutes

Total time: 45 minutes

Yield: Serves 4 as a side dish

2/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 garlic cloves, minced or pushed through a press

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1 teaspoon sweet paprika

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 long, narrow eggplants (or 2 large globe eggplants)

Kosher salt

Aleppo pepper flakes

1/4 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves

1/4 cup chopped fresh mint leaves

2 tablespoons finely diced preserved lemon (or 1 teaspoon finely grated fresh lemon zest)

1 small red chile pepper, such jalapeno or Fresno, thinly sliced

Combine the oil, garlic, cumin, coriander, paprika and black pepper in a bowl.

Cut off the stems of the eggplant. Cut the eggplant lengthwise in 4 to 6 wedges (or slice the globe eggplant lengthwise into 1/2-inch-thick planks).

Score the wedges or slices on the diagonal with crisscross incisions, cutting through the flesh without piercing the other side. Liberally brush the cut sides of the eggplant and in the crevices with the seasoned oil mixture. Evenly season with salt and a sprinkling of Aleppo flakes.

Prepare the grill for indirect cooking over medium-high heat (or heat the oven to 400 degrees).

Arrange the wedges on the grill over indirect medium-high heat. Cook, basting occasionally with the remaining oil, until the eggplant wedges are soft, squidgy and charred in spots, about 30 minutes (or arrange in one layer on a rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment and roast in the oven, basting occasionally).

Arrange the eggplant on a serving platter. Sprinkle the parsley, mint and lemon on top and garnish with the chiles. Serve warm or at room temperature.

581-7500

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

Caption 01: Photo by Lynda Balslev for TasteFood

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