A fragrant concoction of chicken, red wine and vegetables braising in the oven is just what the winter ordered. This recipe is inspired by coq au vin, a traditional country French dish. The origin of coq au vin (which translates to "rooster cooked in wine") is steeped in frugality, embracing a slow cook to tenderize an old rooster or retired hen. The resulting fragrant stew was (and is) deliciously heady in aromatics and wine and a comforting salve in the cold weather season.

For those of us craving a similar ambient dinner at our home (which is sadly not a stone farmhouse nestled in the rolling hills of Burgundy, where we spend our days growing our own ingredients), we must rely on more modern and accessible interpretations to realize our steamy vessel of coq au vin.

The recipe below will help in a pinch. It is not authentic and comes with the required disclaimers and taglines, such as “inspired by," "shortcut" and "easy.” For instance, in place of a rooster, substitute a chicken, which is not only more practical in terms of accessibility, but also in cooking time: Chickens are more tender and require less time to cook. Also, instead of purchasing a whole bird and breaking it down into parts, purchase the chicken pieces -- chicken thighs, specifically. When you use similar pieces or cuts of the bird, they will cook evenly. Chicken thighs have more flavor than white meat, and their cooking times are more forgiving without drying out.

To any traditionalists out there, please accept my apologies for this inspired, easy shortcut. You might thank me, though, on a busy weeknight when a cozy family dinner needs to be on the table in an hour.

Coq au vin-Inspired Chicken Thighs

Active time: 30 minutes

Total time: 1 hour

Yield: Serves 4 to 6

6 to 8 bone-in chicken thighs, with skin

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

8 shallots, peeled, halved crosswise

12 ounces cremini mushrooms, thickly sliced

1 large carrot, thickly sliced

3 garlic cloves, minced

2 tablespoons tomato paste

2 cups dry red wine

1 1/2 cups chicken stock

2 to 3 thyme sprigs (or 1 teaspoon dried thyme)

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

1 tablespoon light brown sugar

Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Season the chicken thighs on all sides with salt and black pepper.

Heat the oil in a large and deep ovenproof skillet or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. In batches, without crowding the pan, add the chicken, skin-side down. Brown the skin, about 5 minutes, then flip the chicken and cook just long enough to color the meat, 1 to 2 minutes more. Transfer to a plate and repeat with the remaining chicken.

Pour off all but 1 tablespoon fat from the pan. Add the shallots and mushrooms and season with salt and black pepper. Saute until the vegetables begin to brown at the edges, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the carrots and garlic and saute until the carrots are bright in color, 2 to 3 minutes more. Stir in the tomato paste and cook for 15 to 30 seconds, stirring to blend and coat the ingredients.

Pour in the wine and deglaze the pan, stirring up any brown bits, then add the stock and thyme. Nestle the chicken in the pan, skin-side up, making sure that the chicken skin is not submerged in the liquid. Transfer to the oven and cook, uncovered, until the chicken is golden brown and cooked through, 30 to 40 minutes, depending on size. (A meat thermometer inserted in the center of the thighs, without touching the bone, should register at least 165 degrees.)

Remove the pan from the oven. Transfer the chicken to a plate with a slotted spoon or tongs. Add the balsamic vinegar, brown sugar and 1/2 teaspoon salt to the pan. Simmer on the cooktop for 2 to 3 minutes to blend the flavors and taste for seasoning.

Serve the chicken in shallow bowls with the sauce.

581-7500

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

Caption 01: Photo by Lynda Balslev for TasteFood

A good sauce is a cook’s magic wand. It’s a trick up the sleeve, so to speak, for jazzing up all sorts of meat, fish, poultry and vegetables, while also multitasking as a spread for sandwiches or a dollop for eggs, rice -- even soups. And it’s a definite keeper when it can be plunked into a bowl and called a dip, to boot.

Romesco sauce is one such sauce. Romesco is a smoky Catalonian tomato sauce, hailing from Tarragona, Spain. It’s a blend of roasted tomatoes and garlic, dried chile pepper, almonds, olive oil and sherry vinegar, often thickened with bread. As homemade traditions go, there are variations from cook to cook, but the bottom line is it’s a chunky, fruity, piquant sauce with just a hint of heat that checks all the boxes listed above.

So, romesco was the sauce that came to mind the other night when I craved a smoky red sauce to ladle over a platter of crispy golden potatoes. However, as real life often dictates -- especially on a frigid weeknight, in an icy storm, and decidedly not in Spain -- my Catalonian vision was relegated to the kitchen pantry and spice drawer for homemade improvisation. Crushed tomatoes, jarred roasted peppers, a generous sprinkling of spice and a splash of sherry vinegar morphed into this sauce. We shall not call it a romesco sauce, since it is not. However, it was a romesco-inspired smoky red pepper sauce, and a delicious addition to the crispy potatoes -- and I dare say, would make a great dip.

Roasted Potatoes With Smoky Red Pepper Sauce

Active time: 15 minutes

Total time: 15 minutes plus cooling time for the sauce; 45 minutes for the potatoes

Yield: Makes about 2 cups

Sauce:

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 garlic clove, minced

1/4 teaspoon crushed red chili flakes

2 teaspoons smoked paprika

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1 tablespoon tomato paste

1 (8-ounce jar) roasted red peppers, about 4 peppers, drained and chopped

1 cup (8 ounces) crushed tomatoes

2 tablespoons sherry vinegar

2 tablespoons honey

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1 to 2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley

Potatoes:

1 1/2 pounds small yellow potatoes, halved

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Make the sauce: Heat the olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic and red pepper flakes and saute until aromatic, about 30 seconds. Stir in the paprika, cumin and coriander, and then the tomato paste. Continue to stir to toast the ingredients, 15 to 30 seconds. Stir in the peppers, tomatoes, vinegar, honey and salt. Simmer for 3 to 4 minutes to meld the flavors. Transfer to a food processor and pulse to achieve a slightly chunky salsa consistency. Transfer to a bowl, stir in the parsley, and cool to room temperature.

While the sauce is cooling, prepare the potatoes. Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Combine the potatoes, oil, salt and pepper in a bowl and toss to coat. Spread on a rimmed baking tray, cut sides down. Roast in the oven until golden brown and tender, about 40 minutes, turning once. Serve the potatoes with the sauce.

581-7500

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

Caption 01: Photo by Lynda Balslev for TasteFood

Do not underestimate a tiny cake. French financiers are simple, luxurious two-bite pastries. They are meant to be eaten as a teacake or an after-dinner sweet, but frankly, they can be enjoyed at any time of day. Their name reflects the small rectangular molds in which they are traditionally baked, resulting in a gold-tinged cake resembling an ingot.

Financiers may be petite, but they do not fail to deliver flavor. They are sweet and delicate, composed primarily of ground nuts, egg whites and sugar. Their crisp exterior gives way to a soft and light interior redolent with brown butter.

Brown butter, or beurre noisette, is a baker’s secret weapon. When butter is melted and cooked, the milk solids separate and brown; the butter takes on a golden hue and toasty flavor that adds rich nuttiness to baked goods and sauces. It’s no surprise brown butter is nicknamed liquid gold, which is especially befitting for a cake named after a gold bar.

Browning butter may sound intimidating, but it’s a quick process and worth knowing for its delicious flavor (you will likely become a convert). It's important to keep an eye on the butter throughout the process. Once it begins to change color, it can quickly change from brown to burnt. When the milk solids at the bottom of the pan are dark brown, the butter is ready. Do not let the solids turn black, or they will be burnt. (If this should happen, do not worry. Simply toss it out and try again.)

Financiers are very simple to make. In this recipe, a mini muffin pan provides an easy alternative to the traditional ingot mold. Fresh raspberries are added for a pop of tart brightness to balance the sweetness of the cake. Note that whole berries will sink into the cakes while baking. If you prefer not to have the berry in the center of the cake, halve the berries and place one half, cut side down, on top before baking. The lighter half-berry will sink less into the batter.

Raspberry Brown Butter Financiers

Active time: 10 minutes

Total time: 25 minutes

Yield: Makes 16 (1 1/2-inch) cakes

1/2 cup unsalted butter, divided in 3 to 4 pieces, plus additional butter for greasing the pan

1 cup almond flour (almond meal)

2/3 cup granulated sugar

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

4 large egg whites (about 1/2 cup)

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

Fresh raspberries

Brown the butter: Arrange the 1/2 cup butter in a stainless-steel or light-colored saucepan over medium heat. (Do not use a dark or cast-iron pan, which will prevent you from seeing the color of the butter as it cooks.) Melt the butter, stirring occasionally. Once melted, let the butter cook undisturbed. It will begin to sizzle at the edges and bubble, then the bubbles will begin to subside. At this point, the milk solids will sink to the bottom of the pan. Watch closely; the butter will turn golden brown with tiny dark brown milk solids at the bottom of the pan. Once the butter is golden brown and the milk solids are dark brown (not black), immediately remove the pan from the heat and pour the butter into a heatproof bowl to stop the cooking process. The entire browning process will take 5 to 7 minutes. Let the butter cool slightly.

Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Generously butter a mini muffin pan.

In a medium bowl, whisk the almond flour, sugar, all-purpose flour and salt. Stir in the egg whites and vanilla, then add the butter.

Spoon or pipe the batter into the prepared muffin tin cups, about two-thirds full. Place a raspberry (or raspberry half) in the center of each cup.

Bake in the oven until golden brown at the edges and a toothpick comes clean when inserted in the cake, 14 to 15 minutes. Transfer to a rack to cool for 15 minutes, then remove the cakes and cool completely.

Note: For an almond variation, substitute almond extract for the vanilla extract, and garnish with sliced almonds instead of raspberries. Hazelnut flour can be substituted for the almond flour.

581-7500

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

Caption 01: Photo by Lynda Balslev for TasteFood