health

Good Fat for the Holidays

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | October 31st, 2022

The holidays are approaching, and cheese and charcuterie boards are a great way to entertain. Look to France for inspiration and add duck rillettes to your charcuterie board.

Rillettes are potted jars and terrines of shredded meat confit, traditionally prepared with duck as well as goose, game and pork. Confit is the French term for a method of salt-curing and slow-cooking meat in its rendered fat. Duck is a popular meat to confit in France; it's considered a specialty, originating in the Gascogne region of the southwest. The method is rooted in history and was an important preservation technique when refrigeration was not an option, with the benefit of adding exquisitely rich flavor and unctuous texture to the meat.

To make duck confit, a bird is broken down into pieces, salt-cured for several days, and then slowly cooked in its fat until it's meltingly tender. The cooked meat is then stored in the fat (yes, there is a recurring fat theme here), which acts as a seal and preserves the meat, preventing harmful bacteria from growing. Once cooked, the duck can be stored in its fat for months in the refrigerator or freezer. When ready to use, the meat is removed from the fat and crisped, added to stews such as cassoulet or shredded to make rillettes.

Rillettes are simply shredded meat confit, mixed with spices and perhaps a splash of spirits, and then packed in jars. A thin layer of fat is placed on top to create a seal, which suspends the meat in animation (i.e., preserves it) in the refrigerator for up to one month. A little dab goes a long way, which is a wonderful way to stretch meat for use. Make a few jars of rillettes and chill, ready to pull out for easy entertaining.

To serve rillettes, simply spread a forkful on a baguette slice. A brush of Dijon mustard on the bread, or a cornichon perched on top, balances the richness of the meat. For a more festive garnish (holidays, we see you), top the rillettes with a dab of piquant fruit chutney or a dried fruit compote.

In addition to the rillette recipe, I’ve included a recipe below for duck leg confit for anyone who is feeling ambitious. Note that the confit method isn’t complicated; it simply requires several days for the legs to cure in the fat. For a shortcut, the confit step can be skipped by purchasing prepared confit duck legs, which are often available in specialty shops, well-stocked supermarkets and online.

Duck Rillettes

Active time: 30 minutes

Total time: 1 hour and 30 minutes, plus overnight chilling time

Yield: Makes about 2 cups

4 duck legs confit (recipe below)

1 tablespoon Calvados or brandy

2 to 3 tablespoons melted duck fat, plus more for sealing

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Bone the duck legs. Shred the meat and finely chop the skin, if using, and place in a bowl. Add the Calvados and stir in the fat, 1 tablespoon at a time, until the meat is moist without being too greasy. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Pack the meat into an 8-ounce terrine or 2 (4-ounce) ramekins, pressing down gently to compress, and leaving about 1/2 inch clear at the top for the seal. Refrigerate, uncovered, for 1 hour. Remove and pour a layer of melted fat, about 1/4-inch thick, over the meat to completely seal the terrines.

Cover and refrigerate the rillettes for at least one day to allow the flavors to develop or up to one month. Serve the rillettes at room temperature, spread on bread, with Dijon mustard and cornichons.

Duck Leg Confit

Active time: 30 to 60 minutes

Total time: up to 2 days

Yield: Makes 6

1 teaspoon black peppercorns

1 teaspoon coriander seeds

1/4 cup kosher salt

2 bay leaves, crumbled

1 tablespoon chopped thyme leaves

1 tablespoon sugar

6 Muscovy or Pekin duck legs with thighs, about 3 pounds

4 cups duck fat

Toast the peppercorns and coriander seeds in a skillet over medium heat until fragrant, about 1 minute. Transfer to a mortar with pestle (or spice grinder) and coarsely grind. Transfer to a small bowl and add the salt, bay leaves, thyme and sugar. Rub the mixture all over the duck legs, pressing it into the skin to adhere. Place the duck in a baking dish, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate 24 to 48 hours.

Heat the oven to 225 degrees. Melt the duck fat in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat.

Remove the duck from the refrigerator, rinse under cold water and pat dry with paper towels. Arrange in a snug baking dish just large enough to hold the legs in one layer. Pour the melted fat over the duck. The legs should be completely covered; if necessary, melt more fat or top off with olive oil. Transfer the dish to the oven and cook until the duck is very tender and the meat is easily pulled from the bone, 3 1/2 to 4 hours.

Remove from the oven and let stand for 30 minutes. Remove the duck from the fat and strain the fat into a bowl or container through a fine mesh sieve lined with cheesecloth.

To serve duck legs confit, preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Heat a large ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat. Melt 1 tablespoon duck fat in the skillet, then add the duck legs, skin side down, and brown the skin, about 4 minutes. Flip the legs and transfer the skillet to the oven and cook until the duck is golden, crisp and heated through, about 20 minutes.

If not using immediately, place the duck in a clean container and cover with the strained fat. Let cool to room temperature, then transfer to the refrigerator and store for up to 1 month. When ready to use, remove the duck from the refrigerator and let stand at room temperature to soften the fat, about 1 hour, before pan-frying. (The duck fat may be stored in the refrigerator, covered, for up to 6 months, or in the freezer for up to 1 year.)

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health

Bland, Rubbery Cheese Need Not Apply

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | October 24th, 2022

As the saying goes, if it’s not broken, don’t fix it. I agree with this philosophy, but with one caveat: You can always add more cheese -- especially when making a potato gratin. A potato gratin is a cheese lover’s gift, with ultrathin layers of sliced potatoes blanketed in oozing cheese, cream and, yes, more cheese. It’s a rich and comforting side dish, guaranteed to soothe any seasonal blahs, with the promise of tipping a dinner to the luscious point of no return.

It’s important to invest in the cheese you choose for a gratin. Your cheese must easily melt, of course, and should also provide flavor to the entire dish, including hints of sharpness, earthiness and/or nuttiness. A surefire source I recommend would be the Swiss alps. Note that the term “Swiss” does not refer to the ubiquitous hole-riddled cheese you’ll find at your supermarket deli counter. Swiss, in this context, refers to the country and its mountainous alpine region.

The Swiss know their cheese, which they take very seriously; it’s designated as one of their cultural icons and is a staple in their cuisine. Consider fondue and raclette, two iconic Swiss alpine dishes that feature melted cheese. Fondue is a simmering pot of melted cheese and wine, and raclette is a melted hunk of cheese scraped and spread over cooked potatoes. (Hungry yet?)

The Swiss cheese types may vary in flavor and strength depending on their age and region, but the common denominator is that they are sourced from their many happy cows (another cultural icon) that blissfully feed on the grass and fauna in the mountains and valleys, which in turn influence and flavor the cows’ milk. The result is a smattering of sublime cheeses that are sweet, nutty, floral and earthy and have a flavorful impact on a gratin (or any dish) where cheese is prominent. They are worth the splurge.

And while I am giving advice, I also suggest purchasing more cheeses than you need for this recipe, because they are delicious to nosh on their own.

Swiss Potato Gratin

Active time: 15 minutes

Total time: 1 hour and 45 minutes

Yield: Serves 6

Unsalted butter

2 cups (16 ounces) sour cream

1/4 cup heavy cream or half-and-half

3 garlic cloves, minced

2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme and/or rosemary leaves

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

6 ounces coarsely grated Gruyere cheese

6 ounces coarsely grated raclette or Appenzeller cheese

2 1/2 to 3 pounds Yukon gold potatoes, very thinly sliced, preferably with a mandoline

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Butter a 2-quart gratin or baking dish.

Whisk the sour cream, cream, garlic, thyme, nutmeg, 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon black pepper in a bowl. Combine the cheeses in a separate bowl.

Arrange half of the potatoes in an overlapping layer in the baking dish. Lightly season with salt and black pepper. Spread half of the cream mixture over the potatoes. Sprinkle half of the cheese over the cream. Arrange the remaining potatoes over the cheese and season with salt and black pepper. Top with the remaining cream and then sprinkle the cheese to cover.

Butter one side of a piece of aluminum foil and place the foil, butter-side down, over the dish. Bake for 1 hour. Remove the foil and bake until the top is golden brown and bubbly and the potatoes are tender when a knife is inserted, 20 to 30 minutes more. Let the gratin cool for 15 to 20 minutes to settle. Serve warm.

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health

Why I Cook

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | October 17th, 2022

You might agree when I say that life feels uncertain right now. There is a new normal replacing many assumptions and expectations we had taken for granted. Some of this is organic: We evolve, kids grow, parents age, paradigms shift. Some of this is external: Our world as we know it changes, affecting jobs, homes, security -- even the weather. We all have our own mix of ingredients that concoct a plan, a recipe, for our life. Yet, the only sure thing is that there is no sure thing. And this is a reason that I like to cook.

The act of cooking is predictable and methodical, an essential daily routine that grounds and comforts us. When I cook, I surrender to its principles, meditate on the process, and revel in its artistic shape. Cooking tells a story that is both personal and reflective. It’s a creative journey and sensual expression that can be gifted and shared. It’s rooted in history, yet embraces the present; it’s our daily bread. Cooking is a thread that tethers us, reminding us of the past while planting seeds for the future, reinforcing and creating new traditions. It connects a family, old friends, new acquaintances and travelers with whom we intersect.

The power to create and provide sustenance that feeds and links us to people is a most simple and powerful gift that we can realize for ourselves and loved ones every single day. I might not have a crystal ball, but I can predict my dinner, and I will make it happen.

This recipe is not fancy. It’s inspired by a glowing food memory of a trip I took to the wilds of Alaska a few years ago. Whenever I re-create this dish, I am transported back to Tutka Bay, where I was served a similar meal during the height of summer, when the sun hovered in the sky, never entirely setting; where vegetables grew at lightning speed, gobbling up the daylight energy; and fresh fish was abundant in the surrounding fjord and sea.

The ingredients are wholesome; each has its place, building layers of texture and flavor derived from an abundance of fresh herbs and citrus. It’s simple, honest cooking that is purposeful and timeless, nourishing and delicious -- a perfect respite to make, share and enjoy in peace at the end of a day.

Shrimp and Kale Couscous

Active time: 30 minutes

Total time: 30 minutes

Yield: Serves 4

Extra-virgin olive oil

2 cups pearl (Israeli) couscous

2 cups plus 1/4 cup chicken stock

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest, plus extra for garnish

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon sweet paprika

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 pound large (18/20) shrimp, peeled and deveined, tails optional

1/2 teaspoon red chile flakes

1 bunch purple or curly green kale, tough ribs removed, torn into large bite-size pieces

1 garlic clove, minced

1/4 cup mixed chopped fresh Italian parsley, dill and chives

Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a wide skillet over medium heat. Add the couscous, stir to coat, and cook until the couscous is toasted light golden, about 2 minutes, stirring frequently. Carefully add the 2 cups stock (it will sizzle). Reduce the heat to low, cover the skillet and simmer until all the liquid is absorbed and the couscous is tender, about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the lemon juice and zest, the cumin, paprika, 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon black pepper. Keep warm.

Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a clean skillet (preferably cast iron) over medium heat. Season the shrimp with salt and pepper. Add the shrimp in one layer to the skillet. Cook until bright pink and lightly seared on both sides and cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes, turning once. Transfer with a slotted spoon to a plate.

In the same skillet, heat 1 tablespoon oil and the red chile flakes over medium heat. Add the kale and garlic and saute until the kale leaves begin to wilt, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the 1/4 cup stock and continue to saute until the liquid evaporates, about 1 minute more. Remove from the heat and season with salt.

To serve, divide the couscous between serving plates or shallow bowls. Top with the kale. Arrange the shrimp over the kale. Garnish with the fresh herbs and additional lemon zest.

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