health

A Very Swiss Good Morning

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | February 15th, 2021

I had my first bircher muesli in Switzerland, where it’s a breakfast staple. I was at a breakfast buffet, and a large bowl of what appeared to be a thick and chunky porridge was presented in the center of the table. At first glance, I was unimpressed, but at the prompting of my Swiss friend, I gave it a try. It was fresh, bright and creamy, chock-full of fruit and nuts, and not at all stodgy. Not only did it feel healthy to eat, but it was downright delicious.

Bircher muesli is essentially overnight oats. It’s a practical and healthy do-ahead meal, reflecting marvelous Swiss sensibilities. A blend of oats and milk or yogurt are muddled together and refrigerated overnight. The next morning, you thin the mixture with more yogurt or milk and fold in fruit and nuts. The result is a nutritious and tasty breakfast that will energize and propel you through the day -- or up an alpine mountain, depending on where you sit.

Bircher muesli is named for Maximilian Bircher-Benner, a Swiss physician who created this concoction in the early 1900s as a healthy breakfast alternative. The original recipe included oats, grated apple, dried fruit and condensed milk (fresh milk was not easily available at the time). Since then, myriad variations have evolved. The key is to combine a mixture of oats with a liquid ingredient, such as apple juice, dairy (or nondairy) milk, cream or yogurt, and stash in it the refrigerator where it will rehydrate, bloom and develop flavor overnight.

Before serving, additional ingredients such as grated or chopped fruit, nuts, fresh berries, honey or lemon may be added. If you are feeling extra indulgent, a dollop of whipped cream can be folded into the mix. (This is what I call the I-am-on-holiday ingredient.)

As with granolas and oatmeal, you can easily riff on the ingredients, providing you adhere to the oats-to-liquid ratio. This basic recipe includes suggested additions and substitutions.

Bircher Muesli

Active Time: 10 minutes

Total Time: 10 minutes plus refrigerating time

Yield: Serves 2

1 cup old-fashioned rolled oats

1/2 cup apple juice

1/2 cup plain whole milk yogurt, preferably European-style

1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 to 2 apples, cored and grated (with skin)

1/4 cup raisins, divided

1/4 cup chopped almonds, divided

Maple syrup or honey for drizzling (optional)

Shaved unsweetened coconut for garnish

Mix the oats, apple juice, yogurt and cinnamon in a bowl. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or overnight. The mixture will become quite thick.

When ready to serve, stir in the grated apple, half of the raisins and half of the almonds. Thin the muesli with additional yogurt or milk to your desired consistency. (If you are on holiday, this is when you fold in the whipped cream.)

Divide between serving bowls. Drizzle with a little maple syrup, if using, and garnish with the remaining nuts, raisins and the coconut.

Cranberry Orange Option:

Substitute vanilla or honey yogurt for the plain yogurt; orange juice for the apple juice; walnuts for the almonds; dried cranberries for the raisins. Add 1/4 teaspoon finely grated orange zest.

Pear Cardamom Option:

Substitute grated pear for the apple; ground cardamom for the cinnamon; golden raisins for the raisins. Add 1/4 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest. Garnish with minced crystallized ginger.

Optional Toppings:

Sliced fruit or fresh berries

Pomegranate seeds

Goji berries

Chia seeds

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

health

Sandwich Unity

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | February 8th, 2021

The humble and satisfying sandwich can be found in nearly every culture. From classic American PB&Js to hoagies and burgers, wraps and clubs, pockets and panini, and an international smattering of open-face toasts and tartines, there is a version of a sandwich for every cuisine and appetite. In honor of the sandwich and its universal appeal, I submit to you a delectable recipe for banh mi, which is guaranteed to whisk you away from the daily humdrum of sheltering, ZOOM meetings, discordant news and the winter blues -- at least for lunch.

Banh mi is the Vietnamese rendition of a sandwich with French sensibilities. It’s a creation influenced by the lengthy colonization of Vietnam by France. French baguette, pate and mayonnaise meet the fragrance and spice of Southeast Asia, layered with lacquered meats, chiles, pickles and cilantro in a double-fisted whopper of a sandwich.

The appeal of banh mi lies in a perfect balance of spicy, salty, sweet and piquant flavors matched by a satisfying blend of textures -- crusty tender bread, sprigs of leafy herbs, sharp pickles and a creamy chile-spiked mayo sauce. It’s a loaded sandwich, and in keeping with sandwich ethos, a great way to repurpose leftover meats, such as pork, chicken and duck. In this recipe, the cooked meat is shredded and tossed in a sweet and salty vinaigrette, then reheated in the oven until warm and crisp. A smear of liver pate is an authentic addition to banh mi, but I have not included it, opting for another generous smear of the chile-spiked mayo. If you would like to add pate, then by all means do so.

Have a nice lunch break!

Banh Mi

Active Time: 30 minutes

Total Time: 30 minutes, plus pickling time

Yield: Makes 4 sandwiches

Quick Pickles:

1 large carrot, peeled, cut into matchsticks

1 (4-inch) daikon, peeled, cut into matchsticks

1 tablespoon sugar

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup unseasoned rice wine vinegar

Spicy Mayo:

1/2 cup mayonnaise

1 to 2 teaspoons Asian hot sauce, such as Sriracha

1 teaspoon fresh lime juice

For sandwich:

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons light brown sugar

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

2 teaspoons Asian hot sauce, such as Sriracha

1/4 teaspoon ground coriander

3/4 to 1 pound cooked and shredded pork shoulder, chicken thigh meat or duck leg meat

4 crusty French dinner rolls or 1 French-style baguette cut into 4 (5-inch) pieces, split crosswise

1/2 English cucumber, thinly sliced

1 to 2 jalapeno peppers, seeded, thinly sliced

1 cup fresh cilantro sprigs

Optional: 1/3 cup pate

Quick-pickle the vegetables: Combine the carrot and daikon in a bowl. Sprinkle the sugar and salt over and, using your fingers, rub the vegetables until the sugar and salt dissolve and the vegetables begin to soften. Stir in the vinegar and let stand for at least 30 minutes (or refrigerate for up to 24 hours). Drain before using.

Whisk all of the mayo ingredients in a small bowl. Chill until use.

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Whisk the soy sauce, sugar, oil, hot sauce and coriander in a bowl. Add the meat and mix to thoroughly coat. Spread the meat in a small baking dish. Transfer to the oven and cook until crisp and slightly caramelized in parts, 6 to 8 minutes, stirring once.

To assemble, spread about 1 tablespoon mayo on each bottom roll half. Top with a layer of cucumber, then mound some quick pickles over the cucumber. Top with the meat. Arrange the jalapeno slices over the meat and top with cilantro sprigs. Spread more mayo (or pate, if desired) on the top roll half. Serve immediately.

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

health

An Ode to Lentils

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | February 1st, 2021

I don’t know why I overlook the humble lentil. These tiny legumes that resemble pancaked pebbles are often bypassed in my pantry, as I reach for grains and beans. When I finally do cook lentils, I remember how good they taste, how satisfying they are to eat, and how easy they are to prepare. Eminently flexible, lentils can stand in for a grain, starch, even a protein. They are healthy too -- rich in nutrients and high in protein, iron and fiber, arguably placing them neck and neck with other lauded foods in the super-food department. They also have the added benefit of being very easy on the wallet.

Lentils cook quickly and without any fuss, gamely absorbing the flavors and seasonings of their fellow ingredients and braising liquids, while adding a hearty, earthy and rich base to soups, stews, side dishes, even salads. This soup is a perfect example. It’s the essence of a simple lentil soup, with traditional seasonings and sauteed aromatics such as onion, carrot and thyme simmering in a good amount of stock. Yet it doesn’t stop there: Wilted kale leaves add balance and freshness to the feisty broth infused with spicy chorizo sausage, along with peppery and smoky paprikas, a dollop of tomato paste for fruity good measure, and another dollop of fiery harissa to boot.

In essence, this is a lentil soup and then some. It’s inspired by North African and southern Mediterranean flavors, which lend warmth and vibrance to what remains a remarkably humble and satisfying soup that passes for a delicious weeknight dinner.

Lentil, Sausage and Kale Soup

Active Time: 45 minutes

Total Time: 45 minutes

Yield: Serves 4

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

12 ounces Spanish chorizo, sliced 1/4-inch thick

1 small yellow onion, chopped

1 large carrot, diced

1 small red bell pepper, diced

1 cup grape tomatoes, halved

1 cup brown lentils, rinsed and picked over

1 tablespoon tomato paste

1 teaspoon thyme

1 teaspoon sweet paprika

1 teaspoon smoked paprika

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

4 cups chicken stock

4 to 6 lacinato kale leaves, tough stems removed, torn into bite-sized pieces

1 tablespoon harissa

1 tablespoon brown sugar

2 teaspoons sherry vinegar

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Heat the oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the chorizo in one layer and brown on both sides, 4 to 5 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer the sausage to a plate lined with paper towels. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon fat from the pot.

Add the onion and carrot to the pot and saute until the onion softens and the carrot brightens in color, about 3 minutes. Add the bell pepper and tomatoes and saute until the pepper is crisp-tender, about 2 minutes. Add the lentils, stir to coat, and then add the tomato paste, thyme, the sweet and smoked paprika and the cumin. Cook, stirring constantly, until blended and fragrant, about 1 minute. Pour in the stock, partially cover the pan, and simmer over medium-low heat until the lentils are tender but not mushy, 25 to 30 minutes. Add the kale leaves and continue to simmer until wilted, 2 to 3 minutes.

Stir in the harissa, brown sugar and vinegar, then add the salt and black pepper and taste for seasoning. Serve warm.

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

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