It's fall, and in my book, that means it's time for apple crisp. When it comes to a good recipe, I follow the popular adage: If it's not broken, don't fix it. This recipe is my go-to recipe throughout the year. The method and amounts remain consistent, and I’ll change up the types of fruit, spices and nuts according to the season.

A crisp should contain seasonal fruits at their peak in flavor, enhanced with a dusting of sugar and spice. The topping should be crumbly and not cloyingly sweet, allowing the natural sweetness of the fruit to shine through. As for the garnish, I prefer the lightness of whipped cream, gently sweetened so it won't overwhelm the dessert -- and preferably fortified with a nip of spirits to complement the fruit filling.

This recipe makes a generous amount of topping -- enough to blanket a 10-cup or 11-by-7-inch baking dish. When assembling the filling, it’s important to have a deep layer of fruit, so feel free to increase the amount of fruit or adjust the shape of the baking dish as needed. Pile the topping on thick, so it will add a delightful cookie crunch to the filling.

If you have extra topping, it can be refrigerated for up to one week or frozen for up to one month. There’s nothing wrong with having a little leftover for a last-minute dessert; chances are you’ll be making crisps throughout the season!

Apple Raisin Crisp With Calvados Cream

Active Time: 25 minutes

Total Time: 1 hour and 15 minutes

Yield: Serves 6

Topping:

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1/2 cup (packed) light brown sugar

1/4 cup granulated sugar

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup pecans

3/4 cup unsalted butter, chilled, cut in pieces

Filling:

6 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, cut in 3/4-inch chunks

1 cup raisins

1 tablespoon fresh orange juice

1/4 cup granulated sugar

1/2 teaspoon finely grated orange zest

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom

Whipped Cream:

1 cup heavy cream

1 to 2 tablespoons granulated sugar

1 tablespoon Calvados brandy (optional)

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

Make the topping: Combine the flour, sugars, cinnamon, cardamom and salt in a food processor and pulse once or twice to blend. Add the pecans and pulse a few times to break them into chunky pieces. Add the butter and pulse until the topping resembles coarse meal. Refrigerate the topping until use -- you want the butter to stay cold for best results.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

Combine the apples, raisins and orange juice in a large bowl. Add the remaining filling ingredients and toss to combine. Transfer the fruit to a 10-cup baking dish. Spread the topping evenly over the filling, letting it dribble down between the fruit and edges.

Transfer to the oven and bake until the apples are tender and the topping is golden brown and crisp, about 50 minutes. Remove from the oven and cool slightly to allow the flavors to develop.

Make the cream: Beat the cream in the bowl of an electric mixer until traces of the whisk are visible in the cream. Add the sugar, Calvados (if using) and vanilla and continue to beat until soft peaks form.

Serve the crisp slightly warm or at room temperature with the whipped cream.

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

It's officially the end of summer. A change of seasons is always a good time to switch gears and do a little cleaning -- consider it a spring clean, but in the fall -- and nothing too taxing, mind you; we're all under a little stress these days. A simple project will feel like an accomplishment, such as cleaning out your refrigerator. This was my inspiration when I did just that and made this slaw.

It's amazing (and potentially alarming) what can be discovered in the depths of a refrigerator. One thing that became clear to me is that sturdy greens and crucifers have a long storage life. A quarter head of cabbage here, a lone broccoli spear there, not to mention a few shockingly pretty rainbow carrots that were stashed for later use (and promptly forgotten) remained bright and crisp.

All of these veggies, from cabbage, to crucifers, to chicories and roots are perfect ingredients in coleslaw. Not only do they have hearty flavors that stand up to bright dressings, but they hold their satisfying crunch and won’t easily wilt.

This coleslaw is substantial, and while it's the tail end of the summer season, it's equally suited for a fall barbecue and more meaty cool-weather meals. Use the recipe as a guide to use up whatever is in your refrigerator; there is no set rule on the ingredients. With that said, however, choose ingredients that are crisp and sturdy, and try to include a balance of flavors, from earthy and peppery to sweet. Jazz up the color varieties, too, if you can -- it will be easy on the eyes.

This salad bowl includes red cabbage, daikon radish, sweet carrots, red bell pepper and a broccoli spear (I told you this was a refrigerator cleanout). And, yes, that's a broccoli stalk in the mix, which happens to be an excellent addition to a slaw. Just be sure to peel the tough outer skin before you shred or cut it.

As for the dressing, feel free to adjust the seasonings to your taste. I grew up eating mayo-heavy slaws, and while there's nothing wrong with these creamy renditions, I prefer the lighter oil-and-vinegar versions.

Active Time: 15 minutes

Total Time: 15 minutes

Yield: Serves: 4 to 6

Dressing:

2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon fresh orange juice

1 tablespoon whole milk yogurt

2 teaspoons sugar

1/2 teaspoon Sriracha

1/2 teaspoon salt, or more to taste

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 teaspoon ground cumin

Slaw:

1/2 medium head red cabbage, cored and thinly sliced

2 carrots, shredded

1 4-inch (approx.) daikon radish, peeled, shredded

1 small red bell pepper, thinly sliced

1 broccoli spear, florets chopped, stalk peeled and shredded

2 green onions, thinly sliced

Whisk the dressing ingredients together in a small bowl.

Combine the slaw ingredients in a large bowl. Pour half of the dressing over and toss to coat. Add more dressing to your desired taste and taste for seasoning. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour before serving.

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

When summer fades and the season tilts to autumn, my senses heighten. The lower light casts a gauzy glow, stretching the shadows lazy and long. The air turns cool and sharp, tinged with wood-burning smoke and the essence of dew on fallen leaves. Wind gusts grow blustery, and fog bears beads of mist and drizzle. No longer stultified by heat and humidity, my appetite grows and shifts to warmth and comfort, craving steaming bowls of chowder and stews, warm drinks and fortifying libations. This steamy bowl of buttery clams hits the spot.

I experienced a meal like this one day last fall, when I was in Washington researching a travel story on the northern coast of the Olympic peninsula. In true Pacific Northwest form, the weather was gray, foggy and misty with intermittent (i.e. frequent) rain showers. Yes, it was seasonally wet. It was also magical, mystical and magnificent. The horizon loomed with teetering mountains, shrouded in swirls of clouds and fog and bedecked with garlands of waterfalls cascading into serpentine lakes. It was desolate, due in part to the weather and also the season.

I had the roads to myself, snaking through canyons, interrupted occasionally by logging trucks barreling past, shocking me out of my reverie. I hiked to a ridge, rain be damned, with distant views to British Columbia, through a mist-laden rain forest lush with moss. I traced a river to a roaring crescendo of water tumbling from a precipitous ledge, and I saw salmon spawn.

By the end of the day, I was cold, soggy and famished. I returned to sea level, to a small fishing town anchoring the mountains to the sea. There were no restaurants open at 4 p.m. but for one lone storefront fish market that provided counter service, and I ordered a simple bowl of garlicky clams steamed in wine and swimming in their buttery juices, with slabs of garlic bread for soaking up the sweet broth. The singular accompaniment was an icy glass of snappy local riesling. It was perfect. Since then, I've re-created this dish at home a number of times. It’s simple and consistently rewarding. The only thing missing is the weather.

Butter and Garlic Clams

Littleneck clams are my preferred type of clam for this recipe. They are the smallest quahog clam, with sweet and tender meat. Depending on their size, 1 pound yields 8 to 12 clams. When cleaning clams, discard any opened clams or those with broken shells before washing. Rinse the clams under cold water, gently scrubbing them clean. Once cooked, discard any unopened clams before serving.

Active Time: 15 minutes

Total Time: 15 minutes

Yield: Serves 2 to 4

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

4 garlic cloves, minced

1 1/2 cups un-oaked white wine

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 pounds littleneck clams, about 24, rinsed and scrubbed clean

1/4 cup chopped Italian parsley leaves

Lemon wedges for serving

In a large, deep skillet with a lid, melt the butter with the oil over medium heat. Add the garlic and saute until soft and fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the wine, lemon juice, and a pinch of salt and black pepper. Bring to a simmer and add the clams. Cover the pan, reduce the heat to medium-low, and steam the clams until the shells have opened, shaking the pan from time to time, 6 to 8 minutes, depending on the size of the clams.

Remove the lid and discard any unopened clams. Taste the broth and season with additional salt and pepper if desired. Divide the clams and cooking liquid among serving bowls and garnish with the parsley. Serve immediately with lemon wedges and garlic bread or crusty bread.

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS