health

Cool Off With Fiery Food

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | July 6th, 2020

It may sound counterintuitive, but when the weather is hot, the spices should be hotter. Think about it: Many cultures that infuse their cuisine with chiles and spice are warm-weather countries. Sure, many of these five-alarm ingredients are native to their environment, but the simple fact is that spicy food is cooling. It makes you sweat, which is your body's sensible method of adjusting its thermostat.

This recipe is my attempt to confront a sweltering day with a plate of fiery food. Chicken thighs are great for roasting and grilling. The dark meat is rich, moist and flavorful, and it can easily handle a wallop of heat and spice. Plus, the juicy meat won't dry out while you cook the thighs to crispy perfection.

The heat in this recipe is largely due to the fresh red jalapeno peppers, where it lies in the peppers’ seeds and membranes. I'll leave it up to you as to how much of the hot parts you remove, but I encourage you to keep at least some of it. Jalapenos can vary in spice from pepper to pepper, so be brave and take a tiny bite of each pepper to know what you're working with and adjust accordingly. And remember when handling the seeds and membranes of spicy peppers to use a paring knife or gloved hands to protect your fingers from the heat.

The good news is that these spicy thighs are easy to make. All you need to do is blitz the marinade ingredients in a food processor, which is my favorite way to make a multi-ingredient marinade with no fussy chopping or prepping required. Then, thoroughly coat the chicken, including under the skin if possible (remember those gloves!) and let the chicken marinate for up to 24 hours. When ready to cook, simply fire up the chicken on the grill or roast in the oven. Easy, right? It should be. After all, it's bleeping hot outside, and you don’t want to exert yourself.

Chili-Chili Chicken Thighs

Active Time: 10 minutes

Total Time: 45 minutes, plus marinating time

Yield: Serves 4

Marinade:

2 red jalapeno peppers

1 large roasted red pepper, drained if jarred, peeled and seeded if fresh, coarsely chopped

4 garlic cloves

1/4 cup olive oil

2 teaspoons light brown sugar

1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme leaves

1 teaspoon sweet paprika

1 teaspoon red chili flakes

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika

Juice and zest of 1/2 lemon

8 bone-in chicken thighs with skin

Fresh thyme for garnish

Halve the jalapeno peppers. If desired, remove some of the seeds and the membranes with a paring knife or gloved hands (or be brave and skip this step!). Coarsely chop the jalapenos and add to the bowl of a food processor. Add all of the remaining marinade ingredients and process to blend.

Place the chicken thighs in a large bowl or a large resealable plastic bag. Pour the marinade over and turn to thoroughly coat the chicken. Cover the bowl or seal the bag and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or preferably overnight. Remove from the refrigerator 30 minutes before roasting.

Heat the oven to 350 degrees or prepare a grill for indirect cooking over medium heat. Remove the chicken from the marinade, shaking off any excess.

If oven-roasting, arrange on a grill pan. Transfer to the middle rack of the oven and roast until the skin is golden and beginning to crisp and an instant-read thermometer registers 165 degrees when inserted in the thickest part closest to the bone, about 30 minutes. Turn on the oven broiler for the last 1 to 2 minutes of cooking to further darken the skin.

If using a grill, arrange the chicken, skin side up, over indirect heat. Grill until the skin is golden and beginning to crisp and an instant-read thermometer registers 165 degrees when inserted in the thickest part closest to the bone, about 30 minutes, turning occasionally.

Transfer the chicken to a platter and season with additional salt and pepper and garnish with fresh thyme.

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

health

Tabbouleh Inspiration

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | June 29th, 2020

I call this salad tabbouleh, although many of the ingredients are not what you will typically find in a traditional Middle Eastern tabbouleh salad. Middle Eastern tabbouleh is a puckery bulgur salad, tumbled with fresh herbs and chopped vegetables, and laced with garlic, lemon and olive oil. This version takes inspiration from the tabbouleh method but detours south of the U.S. border with ingredients and spices of the Americas. Quinoa replaces the bulgur, while sweet corn, chiles, cilantro and cumin ripple throughout the salad. Shredded kale partakes in the shower of fresh greens, providing hearty flavor and healthy heft, and lime steps in for the citrus.

This is a perfect summer salad to include in your barbecue spread as an accompaniment to grilled meats and fish, or as a vegetarian dish for non-meat eaters. Protein-rich quinoa is a South American plant that produces small seeds that are rich in calcium, phosphorous, magnesium and iron. The seeds may be prepared like rice, and their nutty flavor adds heartiness to salads, pilafs and stews. Quinoa is also gluten-free, providing a nutritious substitute for bulgur, couscous and farro.

The key to making this salad is to taste as you build it. There should be a balance of citrus, spice and heat and a generous amount of greens for flavor and freshness. Quinoa requires a good deal of seasoning, so season the quinoa before adding the remaining salad ingredients. I prefer to use red quinoa for color and flavor, but white quinoa can also be used. This recipe can be prepared in advance of serving and refrigerated for up to 6 hours. Its flavors will meld the longer it sits, so taste again before serving.

Quinoa and Kale Tabbouleh

Active time: 30 minutes

Total time: 30 minutes, plus cooling and refrigerating time

Yield: Serves 6

1 1/2 cups quinoa

1 large garlic clove, minced

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon salt, or to taste

1/2 teaspoon ground coriander

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper, or to taste

1 corn cob, husked, silk removed

2 scallions, white and green parts thinly sliced

1 medium red bell pepper, stemmed and seeded, finely diced

1 medium poblano pepper, stemmed and seeded, finely diced

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

4 to 6 Tuscan kale leaves, tough ribs removed, leaves shredded

1/2 cup chopped Italian parsley leaves

1/2 cup chopped cilantro leaves and tender stems

Put the quinoa in a fine-mesh sieve and rinse under cold water. Drain and place in a medium saucepan. Add cold water to cover by 2 inches. Bring to a boil and simmer over medium heat until the quinoa releases its tail (germ). Drain again.

Transfer the quinoa to a large bowl. Stir in the garlic, cumin, salt, coriander, black pepper and cayenne and cool to room temperature.

Cut the corn kernels off of the cob. Add the corn, scallions, peppers, lime juice and olive oil and stir to combine. Add the kale, parsley and cilantro and stir well to thoroughly coat the greens and slightly wilt the kale. If too dry, add additional olive oil. Taste for seasoning.

Refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 6 hours. Serve cool or at room temperature.

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

health

Think Outside the Strawberry Box

TasteFood by by Lynda Balslev
by Lynda Balslev
TasteFood | June 22nd, 2020

To be perfectly clear: Having too many strawberries to eat is hardly a problem. But during this season of berry abundance, inventive ways to incorporate the sweet, sun-kissed strawberry into our meals is always welcome. And I’m not just talking smoothies and desserts. Strawberries are delicious in savory preparations, too, where their sweetness and gentle acidity contribute to light dishes such as salads, sauces, toasts and cheese plates.

This bruschetta recipe showcases the best of the strawberry, piled on toasted bread with a few of its favorite savory ingredients. A creamy, lemon-flecked ricotta cheese anchors peppery arugula to the bread, while a tangy, inky balsamic syrup dresses the berries.

Balsamic syrup is easy to make. It’s a simple reduction of balsamic vinegar with a little sugar, spiked with lemon juice and black pepper for extra zing. When making the syrup, save your pricey balsamic vinegar for another use. A modestly priced supermarket version will do the trick. However, don’t skimp on the ricotta in this bruschetta recipe. Choose a high-quality, fresh ricotta for best results. It should be creamy, sweet and slightly tangy -- not grainy or soupy. A mild, fresh goat cheese is an equally delicious alternative to the ricotta.

Strawberry Ricotta Bruschetta

Active Time: 20 minutes

Total Time: 20 minutes, plus cooling time

Yield: Makes 2

Balsamic syrup:

1/2 cup balsamic vinegar

1 tablespoon packed light brown sugar

1 teaspoon lemon juice

Pinch of freshly ground black pepper

2 slices levain or country-style bread, about 1/2-inch thick

Extra-virgin olive oil

1/4 cup fresh ricotta or soft, fresh goat cheese, room temperature

Finely grated lemon zest

Sea salt

1 cup arugula leaves, washed and dried

4 to 6 strawberries, hulled, thickly sliced

Freshly ground black pepper

Combine the syrup ingredients in small saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a simmer, reduce the heat to medium-low, and continue to simmer until the mixture is reduced by half and syrupy in consistency, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove from the heat and cool to room temperature.

Preheat the oven broiler. Lightly brush the bread slices with olive oil. Broil in the oven until golden brown, turning once.

Smear the ricotta or goat cheese over the bread slices. Lightly sprinkle each bruschetta with lemon zest and a pinch of sea salt. Spread the arugula over the bruschetta and arrange the strawberries over the arugula. Lightly brush the berries with the balsamic syrup and drizzle additional syrup over and around the bruschetta. Garnish with additional lemon zest and black pepper. Serve immediately.

CAPTIONS AND CREDITS

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