DEAR DR. BLONZ: I remain confused as to why organic and holistic food makers don't use flavors from the food that is the origin of that flavor, such as using the compound in real strawberries to flavor other strawberry-flavored foods. I see "natural flavors" listed, but I know these are not the same. How do natural flavors differ from artificial flavors? -- R.Q., Seattle
DEAR R.Q.: Whether in fresh, whole foods or highly processed ones, flavors come from distinct combinations of chemicals. Making them involves high-tech science, complete with chemists and secret formulas designed to convince your palate you've got the real thing.
The direct approach might sound preferable, but it's risky commercially. Plant flavors are potent but low in concentration, being made and sustained for a specific reason: signaling when its seeds are fully formed and ready for action. The timing is important, as animals eating fruits and then passing the seeds through their GI tracts are one way that seeds get distributed in nature. The system fails if seeds get consumed before they are ready; this explains why plants evolved to keep poachers away from their immature fruit -- with undesirable flavors and indistinct aromas and colors.
Extracted plant flavors and aromas are less stable, can break down during processing and storage, and/or can interact negatively with other ingredients or the packaging material. There's also a question of uniformity, as fresh foods vary from producer to producer and season to season. Biting into a less-than-sweet fresh strawberry wouldn't stop you from eating other fresh strawberries, but a bad taste in a strawberry-flavored processed food made with "natural strawberry flavor" and "other natural flavors" might.
There's an interest in having "natural" or "no artificial anything" on food labels. To label a flavor "natural" requires that its components come from natural sources. While some flavor from the strawberry would need to be in "natural strawberry flavor," that's not so for products labeled as "naturally flavored" or "with other natural flavors."
Even if scientists could control the inconsistencies of food flavors, the supply couldn't meet the demand. If, for example, the manufacturer had to use real strawberries to make strawberry Jell-O, the world supply of strawberries could be exhausted in days.
Flavor chemists isolate and identify the compounds that are responsible for a flavor. If making an artificial flavor, the chemists can develop a synthetic version of the actual flavor. If the label is to read "natural" but the flavor is not naturally found in the actual food, the chemist would combine different naturally occurring substances to create a flavor impression that matches the target flavor. Companies use tasting panels to help them identify flavor combinations that work best for their target consumers; this also means that one company's "natural" flavor may taste nothing like another's.
Ironically, one's sense of taste is not always the best way to identify a natural flavor. One processed food product flavored with a higher percentage of real strawberries might taste inferior to another with a better formula in its "other natural flavors."
Ultimately, a good advertising campaign might persuade a consumer to try a product, but repeat business and ultimate success in the marketplace will depend on how it tastes. In today's marketplace, the only way to avoid the issue of flavor additives is to stick with fresh, whole foods.
Send questions to: "On Nutrition," Ed Blonz, c/o Andrews McMeel Syndication, 1130 Walnut St., Kansas City, MO, 64106. Send email inquiries to questions@blonz.com. Due to the volume of mail, personal replies cannot be provided.