Veterinarians are seeking to learn more about aging in cats and how to give them better quality of life during the geriatric years

By Kim Campbell Thornton

Andrews McMeel Syndication

Your geriatric cat is as healthy as a 17-year-old cat can be, but she looks like skin and bones. Is there anything wrong with her? The answer is "yes and no."

Whether we're talking about elderly humans, dogs or cats, what's called "frailty syndrome" will eventually occur: a decrease in function reserve that can accompany advancing age. Animals with frailty syndrome lose weight, even if they're eating normally; lose muscle mass; stumble more frequently; walk less and slow down.

"We call them the 'weak and wobbly,'" says veterinarian Sheilah Robertson, medical director of Lap of Love in Gainesville, Florida. "They're just not as robust."

In partnership with human gerontologists and the University of Florida's Institute on Aging, Robertson has been studying frailty in cats. Thanks to better medicine and longer lifespans, frailty is becoming more of an issue in the care of senior pets. The senior cat care guidelines issued last year by the American Association of Feline Practitioners address the newly emerging concept of frailty and how it affects aging cats.

One aspect of frailty is immunosenescence: a decreased ability of the immune system to cope with infection or stressors. Cats aren't able to bounce back from illness the way they might have when they were younger.

"If they lose fluids or if they bleed or they're stressed or exposed to infection, they have less of a reserve to call on," Robertson says. "It really affects their ability to combat all the stressors of daily life, so they have higher vulnerability to adverse medical outcomes."

Besides looking at an aging animal's weight, activity level, limb stride, limb strength, or walking ability and speed, veterinarians can also evaluate muscle condition. Loss of muscle mass and strength is common during aging -- as you may have discovered, to your own dismay.

It's not currently commonplace, but Robertson would like to see veterinarians score a pet's muscle condition when they first see the animal, then track it as the animal ages. That could allow them to intervene earlier, recommending exercise or nutrition changes to help slow the deterioration of muscle mass.

Why is this important? People love their senior pets and want to give them the best care.

"When I do a show of hands at meetings, 40 percent-plus of every appointment is an older pet now," Robertson says. "Not a puppy, not a new kitten. It's the older pets."

In humans, a frailty index is an accurate predictor of how well a person will rally after a catastrophic event such as a broken hip and the surgery required to repair it.

Currently, veterinarians don't have a frailty index for pets the way gerontologists do for humans, but veterinarians such as Robertson, Tony Buffington, DVM, and Elizabeth Colleran, DVM, are working to develop one for cats.

"We are at the beginning of studying what constitutes frailty in cats," Colleran says. "It's been studied in people as sort of a condition for about 15 years now. I think we have a lot to learn from the work that's been done in humans."

One thing that she and Buffington are looking at is the role of environmental enrichment in treating older cats. Humans who are more active and who spend time with friends typically have lower pain scores. The vets hope to discover whether that's true for cats as well.

For now, Buffington says about feline aging: "Based on the data that I'm aware of in other species, environmental enrichment, a good diet and good medical care are, to my knowledge, the best preventive strategies that we have so far."

Q&A

Rabbits should

live indoors

Q: My daughter is getting two rabbits, and she wants to keep them in a cage in her bedroom and train them to use a litter box. My husband wants to build a hutch outside. What do you advise?

A: Your daughter has done her homework. Rabbits thrive with proper care and attention, providing quiet companionship punctuated by periods of delightful silliness. They can and do use a litter box, and indoor living is safest and best for them.

Visit the website of the House Rabbit Society (rabbit.org) for the best information on caring for rabbits. These tips will get you started:

-- Housing. Rabbits need a small indoor pen or large cage containing food, water, toys and a litter box. Fill a plain cat litter box with a shallow layer of recycled paper or wood pellets covered with a layer of fresh grass hay. Change it completely, every day. Broken woven baskets, cardboard boxes and other items make good chew toys.

-- Nutrition. Bunnies need fresh water available at all times. While commercial pellets are fine, it's just as easy and often less expensive to feed your rabbits yourself. Grass hay (cheaper by the bale, if you have a dry space to store it) should always be available, complemented by green vegetables such as bok choy, broccoli greens, kale, mustard greens, romaine lettuce and carrot tops.

-- Health care. Get your rabbit spayed or neutered. In addition to keeping your rabbit from reproducing, you'll have a better pet. Unaltered rabbits can have behavior problems such as aggression and urine spraying. Your rabbit will also need a wellness check, just as a cat or dog would, and a good rabbit vet will help you catch little health problems before they become big ones. Find more about living with rabbits here: uexpress.com/pets/pet-connection/2021/09/20. -- Dr. Marty Becker

Do you have a pet question? Send it to askpetconnection@gmail.com or visit Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker.

THE BUZZ

Org helps people

find lost dogs

-- Is your dog lost? Dog tracker Babs Fry of Jamul, California, started a nonprofit organization, A Way Home for Dogs, that offers free tracking and recovery advice to help people find missing pets. In a Los Angeles Times story, Fry says she receives up to 50 calls a day from people in the U.S., Canada, the United Kingdom and Australia. Her website, awayhomefordogs.com, shares success stories as well as tips for finding lost dogs. Her best tips: Contact dog shelters immediately, post flyers, share photos and information about the dog on social media to alert the community, and advise people not to chase the dog.

-- Feather picking in birds is often attributed to boredom, but it can also signal other problems. Medical causes can include allergies, parasitic infections, bacterial infections, abnormal growths in the feather follicle, and vitamin deficiencies. Homes with low humidity can also contribute. Many birds come from extremely humid environments, and dry air can cause them to feather pick. Feather picking is often an outlet for stress. Some birds exhibit feather-damaging behavior when they are seeking attention or are upset by something that has happened to them. Take your feather picker to the veterinarian as soon as you notice the problem to rule out medical or nutritional problems. If your bird gets a clean bill of health, seek advice from an avian behavior expert.

-- Cats use scent to identify what belongs to them, and their "belongings" include their people. Sebaceous glands attached to their hair follicles play a role in the feline territory-marking system by secreting sebum, a scent marker. These glands are largest and most numerous on the cat's lips, chin, base of the tail and scrotum. When your cat rubs up against you or a piece of furniture, she's claiming you as her own. -- Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet care experts headed by "The Dr. Oz Show" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker, founder of the Fear Free organization and author of many best-selling pet care books, and award-winning journalist Kim Campbell Thornton. Joining them is behavior consultant and lead animal trainer for Fear Free Pets Mikkel Becker. Dr. Becker can be found at Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker or on Twitter at DrMartyBecker. Kim Campbell Thornton is at Facebook.com/KimCampbellThornton and on Twitter at kkcthornton. Mikkel Becker is at Facebook.com/MikkelBecker and on Twitter at MikkelBecker.

It’s called the cone of shame, but it’s meant to protect pets. We look at some comfortable alternatives

By Kim Campbell Thornton

Andrews McMeel Syndication

What’s the worst part about your pet having surgery, an injury or an infection? Paws down, your pet would say that it’s being forced to wear an Elizabethan collar -- not the big fancy lace getup popularized during the 16th-century reign of Elizabeth I, but the unwieldy plastic version that your veterinarian sends home with stern warnings that your pet must wear it to prevent chewing or licking at stitches or the affected area.

Pet parents who must get their pets to wear the things dislike them almost as much. Pets bang into walls, can’t get through pet doors, tip over food and water bowls, and do everything they can to get them off, including incessantly scratching at them, shaking their heads, and moaning and groaning until you want to rip it off yourself just so you don’t have to listen to them anymore.

Fortunately, manufacturers and creative owners have come up with a number of alternatives, from inflatable collars to pet or baby onesies to their own clothing.

Soft fabric collars, usually made in a C or donut shape, come in a variety of colors and patterns to suit any size pet and any owner’s whimsy: some resemble an actual donut, a flower, a shark’s mouth or a lion’s mane. They are typically inflatable and adjustable, usually with hook-and-loop or touch fasteners.

Look for features such as the ability to customize the angle of the collar to prevent access to the wound or avoid blocking the animal’s vision; soft, comfortable, water-resistant fabric; and ease of attachment and inflation. Make sure the collar fits well and doesn’t make any squeaky or other noises that could irritate or frighten your dog or cat. The collar should be sturdy enough to discourage not only licking and chewing but also the ingenuity of a pet trying to remove it.

Archie, a redbone coonhound who’d had a tumor removed on his side, hated the plastic e-collar the vet sent home and destroyed an inflatable collar. Ruth, a Boston terrier battling a fungal infection on her leg, was miserable in both an e-collar and a donut collar.

For the animal who resists wearing any kind of recovery collar -- no matter how cute or comfy -- a recovery suit may be the answer. The bodysuits fit closely and cover up surgical incisions or infected areas so pets can’t lick or chew at them. They offer more freedom of movement than collars, and a snug fit can be soothing to pets. Dogs in recovery suits may need close supervision, as destructive, determined or focused animals left to their own devices have been known to take them apart.

Choose one that’s soft, machine washable, easily adjustable for potty breaks, and easy to put on and remove. And make sure it suits your dog’s sense of style. “Rita Sue” left an Amazon review deploring the blue and yellow-striped number purchased by her people (the pink floral being unavailable in her size), although she appreciated the soft fabric, trim fit and pocket on the back for phone and ID.

Alternatives to surgical suits include onesies made for human babies, pet T-shirts and even clothing made for humans.

“I have used my cycling jerseys on my girl Labs to prevent incision licking,” says Linda C. Rehkopf of Powder Springs, Georgia. “(The jerseys have) breathable materials and zips along their backs.” A jersey also came in handy when one of her Labs was weaning puppies but still wanted to be with them.

When Mary Wakabayashi’s dog Hina had sutures at the bottom of her rib cage, dog shirts were too short to cover the area. Wakabayashi used one of her own shirts instead. For wounds on the leg, chest or neck, a long-sleeved T-shirt works well, she says. Socks, tubular bandages and vet wrap can also be used.

Work with your veterinarian and think creatively to discover the best solution for you and your pet.

Q&A

Cat toy habit

is expensive

Q: My two cats love to play with toys, and I’m going broke buying them new ones all the time. They become bored with them so quickly. Are there some inexpensive alternatives? (They have multiple scratching posts and places to perch and hide.)

A: Cats can definitely have a short attention span. That works to your advantage because you can put up all their toys and then dole them out two or three at a time. Every few days, swap them out for some “new” ones from the cat toy closet. You save money and your cats can play with something they haven’t seen in a while.

Different cats have different toy preferences, so make sure they have a wide assortment: catnip-filled, feathery, fishing pole- or wand-style toys, crinkle balls, tracks with balls inside that your cats can bat at, a tunnel for them to run through, toys that make noise (put those up at night), and electronic, battery-operated or wind-up toys that move, eliciting your cat’s chase instinct -- the list is endless.

And yes, there are lots of toys you can make yourself. Some of the best you don’t have to make at all because they come readymade to your home: paper grocery bags, empty boxes, and empty toilet paper or paper towel rolls. Crumple up a piece of paper and toss it for them. Pull out a flashlight and let them chase the beam. You can find easy and creative ideas at foodpuzzlesforcats.com.

Finally, remember to make yourself a part of their playtime, too. Drag a toy through the house for them to chase, toss a small ball (Ping-Pong or small tennis balls are fun) for them to chase, set a toy in motion for them to bat at. Attention from you is a cat’s best “toy.” -- Dr. Marty Becker and Mikkel Becker

Do you have a pet question? Send it to askpetconnection@gmail.com or visit Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker.

THE BUZZ

One Health for

pets, people, planet

-- January is One Health Awareness Month, a reminder that the future and fortunes of animals, people and the environment are inextricably linked. The collaborative effort of veterinarians, physicians and other scientists is important in every area: zoonotic diseases, food production, welfare of domestic animals and wildlife, a healthy environment and more. Without their cooperation, it would be easy to miss connections that affect the collective health and safety of humans, animals and the environment. Humans and animals share the same environment and are exposed to the same hazards: secondhand smoke, asbestos, lead, pesticides and more. Sharing information with clients about healthy lifestyles, preventive care, and physical and mental health is one way that physicians and veterinarians can work together. Animal lovers can help by becoming aware of tick-borne and mosquito-borne diseases that affect animals and humans, the effects on wildlife of habitat and biodiversity loss, and food safety issues that affect humans and pets.

-- You probably know that plain canned pumpkin can be a treat for dogs, as well as something your veterinarian may recommend to help firm up the stool in the event of a mild case of diarrhea. But once you’ve opened that can, how are you going to use it up before it goes bad, especially if your dog gets only a teaspoon at a time? Pull out a cookie sheet, line it with wax paper or parchment paper, drop pumpkin on it by the teaspoonful and freeze. Once they’re frozen, you can peel off the pumpkin drops and store them in the freezer in a zippered freezer bag. Then you can pull out one as needed, thawing or giving it to your dog frozen. Either way, he’ll love it, and none of the pumpkin will go to waste. -- Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet care experts headed by “The Dr. Oz Show” veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker, founder of the Fear Free organization and author of many best-selling pet care books, and award-winning journalist Kim Campbell Thornton. Joining them is behavior consultant and lead animal trainer for Fear Free Pets Mikkel Becker. Dr. Becker can be found at Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker or on Twitter at DrMartyBecker. Kim Campbell Thornton is at Facebook.com/KimCampbellThornton and on Twitter at kkcthornton. Mikkel Becker is at Facebook.com/MikkelBecker and on Twitter at MikkelBecker.

Litter box tips and tricks to ensure that your new kitten or cat approves of the “facilities” in your home

Andrews McMeel Syndication

Has the new year brought a kitten or cat into your life for the first time? You probably know that cats are good about using a litter box -- that might even be what attracted you to one as a companion -- but did you know you can take steps to help prevent kittens and cats from thinking (or stinking) outside the box? The following tips will help to ensure that your cat remains satisfied with bathroom you provide.

Choose a box that’s the right size. Small kittens need a litter box that’s not so big that they can’t climb into it and not so small that they don’t have room to turn around and do some digging. Large kittens -- think Maine coons, Siamese or Siberians -- need larger boxes.

As your kitten matures, provide a larger box. A good rule of paw is that the litter box should be one-and-a-half times longer than the cat’s body length. You don’t want your cat to have to scrunch up to fit inside; if he does, he might choose to pee or poop next to the box instead of in it.

Prefer to start out with a full-size box? Place a step in front of it or cut an opening at one end so your kitten can easily enter and exit.

Covered or uncovered? You might prefer a covered box to hide the mess or smell or to keep your cat from kicking litter onto the floor, but cats often prefer an uncovered box so they can watch for the approach of potential threats -- your dog, for instance -- while they’re squatting in a vulnerable position. The bonus of an uncovered box is that you can see immediately if it has been used and scoop it.

Which brings us to cleanliness. Cats don’t want to use a dirty litter box any more than you want to use a portable toilet at a crowded music festival on a hot summer day. Scoop every time you see it has been used -- or at least morning and evening. Every two weeks, dump the litter, clean the box with warm water and unscented dishwashing soap, and replace with clean litter.

Type of litter is another matter of great importance to cats. Their preferences can be based on such factors as the way the litter feels beneath their paws, what the litter smells or doesn’t smell like and the amount of litter in the box. Depending on what they are used to, cats may prefer traditional clay litter, soft clumping litter, litter crystals or pearls, or alternative litters made from wheat, pine, paper or corn. Offer some options, and pay attention to what they like best. If it doesn’t seem to matter, go with what you like. If they declare a favorite, it’s wise to stick with that.

Remember that cats typically prefer unscented litter, which doesn’t offend their sensitive noses. Just because it smells good to you doesn’t mean it will smell good to your cat.

Cats can be fussy about the amount of litter in the box. Start by filling it with about 2 inches, then adjust as needed. Some cats like it as deep as 4 inches, while others prefer the bare minimum. Just don’t assume that a deeper bed of litter means you can scoop less often. Cats still want their toilet to be “flushed.”

When it comes to litter boxes, location is as important to cats as it is in human real estate transactions. Cats don’t want a litter box in the same area where they eat; they’d like privacy, please, when they use it; and they don’t want to be rudely interrupted by the dryer buzzer or the garage door opening. Place it in a quiet area that’s easily accessible and doesn’t make the cat feel trapped.

By understanding your new kitten or cat’s needs and offering choices, you’ll both be happy.

Q&A

Is my dog

obstructed?

Q: My Lab puppy is vomiting, he doesn’t want to eat and he’s not his usual active self. What could be going on?

A: Just the words “Lab puppy” offer a clue. As a veterinarian with more than 40 years’ experience, I am still amazed at the variety of things dogs -- especially puppies and especially Labs -- will put into their mouths and swallow: dish towels, socks, rubber ducks, knives or wooden skewers. Young Labs are some of the worst offenders, but any dog is capable of eating something that results in an obstruction.

And an obstruction could certainly be your pup’s problem. Foreign bodies, as nonfood objects are known, might pass through the gastrointestinal tract without you ever knowing the item was swallowed (unless you notice it when you pick up poop), but sometimes they get stuck -- and that’s when the trouble starts.

Clues that a dog might have an obstruction include vomiting, regurgitation (when food comes right back up after your dog has eaten), appetite loss, lethargy or just seeming “off” (the veterinary term for this is ADR, or ain’t doin’ right). A dog who’s gagging, coughing or pawing at the mouth or neck might have something stuck in the esophagus -- the tube that carries food to the stomach.

If your dog has a habit of eating things he shouldn’t and shows any of these signs, it’s a good idea to take him to the veterinarian to check for an obstruction.

Depending on the results of the exam and diagnostic tests and whether you know what the dog may have eaten, the vet may recommend a wait-and-see approach, giving pumpkin to see if that helps move the object along or immediate surgery. -- Dr. Marty Becker

Do you have a pet question? Send it to askpetconnection@gmail.com or visit Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker.

THE BUZZ

Dogs offer clues

to dementia

-- Researchers at Cornell Veterinary Biobank, the University of Washington and the University of Arizona, working with the Dog Aging Project, are seeking answers to canine cognitive dementia, a condition similar to Alzheimer’s disease in humans. The goal of the large-scale research study is to compare CCD and Alzheimer’s to see if they are triggered by the same genetic and environmental factors, writes Sherrie Negrea in an article published last month in Cornell Chronicle. Researchers will analyze biological samples from hundreds of dogs to identify biomarkers for CCD. The samples will be banked for future research. Learning the causes of CCD in dogs can help to advance what is known about Alzheimer’s in humans. You can find more about CCD here: fearfreehappyhomes.com/anxiety-often-accompanies-cognitive-dysfunction.

-- American Eskimo dogs, nicknamed the Dog Beautiful for their fluffy white coat, aren’t from the Great White North at all, but were developed from various spitz breeds by German immigrants to be farm dogs. They come in three sizes -- toy, miniature and standard -- and are known for being clever, active and mischievous. Don’t get one if lots of barking and shedding will bother you, but do get one if you would enjoy living with an adventurous, comical dog who responds well to positive-reinforcement training. Eskies do best in homes with older children and typically live 12 to 15 years.

-- Why, in a room full of people, will a cat invariably make a beeline for the one person in the room who doesn’t like or is allergic to cats? Cats find eye contact from strangers intimidating, so they seek out the people who aren’t looking at them. Among cats, that’s polite behavior. And what cat could imagine that the person isn’t looking because they don’t want the cat near them? It's just a little bit of cross-species miscommunication. -- Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet care experts headed by “The Dr. Oz Show” veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker, founder of the Fear Free organization and author of many best-selling pet care books, and award-winning journalist Kim Campbell Thornton. Joining them is behavior consultant and lead animal trainer for Fear Free Pets Mikkel Becker. Dr. Becker can be found at Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker or on Twitter at DrMartyBecker. Kim Campbell Thornton is at Facebook.com/KimCampbellThornton and on Twitter at kkcthornton. Mikkel Becker is at Facebook.com/MikkelBecker and on Twitter at MikkelBecker.