pets

More Bang for the Buck

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | January 28th, 2013

LET YOUR VET HELP KEEP YOUR PET HEALTHY, AND YOU'LL SAVE IN THE LONG RUN

If you're trying to save money -- and really, who isn't? -- it's important to understand a couple of key concepts when it comes to budgeting for pet care:

1. It's almost always less expensive to prevent health problems than to treat them.

2. Taking your pet's health care expert -- your veterinarian -- out of the picture is never going to be the best way to save money.

And, yes, they go hand in hand. Veterinarians know money is always an issue, and they're ready to offer wellness plans that will help you keep your pet healthy. A wellness check once or twice a year can catch little problems before they're big ones, and gives you access to cutting-edge care and advice that will help you save at home, too.

Some more tips for keeping costs down include:

-- Take the weight off your pet. Extra pounds increase the likelihood of serious health problems, such as arthritis, diabetes and cancer in pets just as they do in people. And yet few people recognize when their pet is overweight -- or even grossly obese!

If your pet is normal weight (you should be able to feel his ribs), measuring food, keeping treats to a minimum and working in a daily exercise session will keep him that way. If your pet is overweight, get your veterinarian's help to reduce weight slowly to avoid the health risks of sudden weight loss, especially in cats. 

-- Change your buying habits. You can save money buying the largest bags of food or litter, or get case discounts on canned goods. Split your dry food purchases with family or a friend, and store portions in an airtight container. (Do keep product info from the bag, though, in case there are questions or problems.)

Other purchases should be considered carefully. Replace things such as collars when wear first shows -- you don't want a collar to break and your dog to get loose in a dangerous situation. Buy quality, not silliness: One good collar is a better value than a lot of shoddy but cute ones.

Be careful when cutting down on toys, though: Good chew toys have saved many an expensive pair of shoes.

-- Get the do-it-yourself bug. Most people can learn to handle basic pet grooming at home, from bathing to nail trims. If nothing else, you can probably stretch out the time between professional grooming with some at-home care. Check your library for grooming guides and hone in on breed-specific tips with an Internet search.

-- Don't forget the value of bartering. Ask about trading goods and services for your pet's needs.

-- Poison-proof your home. Go through your home with an eye toward possible hazards. From food hazards such as raisins, Xylitol-sweetened goodies and chocolate to houseplants such as lilies, many poisoning risks can be prevented just by removing them. Both over-the-counter and prescription medications are also a danger, and these are best dealt with by putting them behind cupboard doors.

Don't be shy about asking your veterinarian to work with you on keeping costs down. For example, ask your veterinarian to give you prescriptions for medications to be filled elsewhere or to match prices. Comparison shopping for medications may offer considerable savings, especially if there are generic equivalents available.

We also recommend looking into pet health insurance, because no pet lover wants to say no to a pet who can be saved because the money isn't there for the care. Because plans differ, do your research before buying to make sure the most likely health problems of your pet are covered.

Talk to your veterinarian, and you'll get even more good advice.

Q&A

More scratching places

can save your furniture

Q: I got the cat a scratching post. But then I read that one isn't enough. How much stuff does a cat really need? He doesn't use the scratching post he has now, ruining my couch instead. -- via Facebook

A: I think you're looking at this wrong. Your cat needs and loves to scratch, and if you provide places that make him happy to do so -- and show him that this is where he should scratch -- your furniture is going to sustain less damage.

That's not the only advantage. Feline obesity is a serious and common problem, leading to chronic diseases such as diabetes. Whatever you can do to keep your cat active will help prevent him from packing on the pounds.

The reason you see advice for more litter boxes, more scratching posts (trees, trays and so on) and more toys is because many cats are living lives completely inside these days. And while that's good for them in many ways, it does require effort on our part to make up for the enriched (and dangerous) environment outside.

If you think about all the places cats can dig their claws into outside, you'll understand why one little scratching post isn't enough. Yes, your cat needs more.

Think variety as well as quantity. Some cats love to scratch horizontally. Some even like to scratch upside down, kicking at the roof of "scratching tunnels" with their hind paws, bunny-style. You'll find many choices that aren't very expensive. Check out "scratching trays" that offer the exposed ends of cardboard packed tightly into a compact unit that will fit almost anywhere in your house. Rub catnip into the places where you want your cat to scratch, if your cat's one who enjoys the herb (about half don't react to it). Place the scratchers in various locations, but you should especially place one near the damaged corner of that couch. Use double-sided tape on the damaged area to discourage your cat from digging claws in, and praise him for using the scratcher. Later, you can slowly move the post, tree or scratching tray to a preferred location, and your cat will happily follow it. -- Dr. Marty Becker

Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com or visit Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker.

THE BUZZ

New tax on equipment

may impact vet costs

-- A little-known provision in the Affordable Care Act has some veterinarians concerned that the costs of providing care will go up. DVM360.com reports that medical equipment used in both human and veterinary medicine is now subject to a sales tax of 2.3 percent -- an expense that industry experts say may end up being passed along to clients. The American Veterinary Medical Assoc. notes that it's "reasonable to believe" the costs will need to be passed along. The ACA does not specifically address veterinary medicine, but it is widely believed that the overlap in medications, supplies and equipment will likely affect the cost of care for animals as well as people.

-- Tethering a dog for a short while is fine, but it should never be a dog's 24/7 existence. Behaviorists say dogs who spend their lives on chains are more likely to become dangerous, biting anyone who comes onto their turf. That's because a dog who spends his life on a chain is isolated and frustrated, and he'll sometimes lash out to protect his limited bit of territory.

-- The Veterinary Information Network, a privately held online information, education and networking source for veterinarians, based in Davis, Calif., is collecting data on pet deaths attributed to jerky treats, some of which have been recalled. VIN says it will be working with veterinary pathologists to rule out unrelated causes of deaths in dogs suspected of being killed by the popular treats in order to focus on solving a mystery that has stumped state and federal public-health officials for years. VIN was also active in collecting verifiable data during the 2007 pet-food recall. Affected pet owners should work with their veterinarians to be considered for the study. -- Dr. Marty Becker and Gina Spadafori

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet care experts headed by "Good Morning America" and "The Dr. Oz Show" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are affiliated with Vetstreet.com and also the authors of many best-selling pet care books. Dr. Becker can also be found at Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker or on Twitter at DrMartyBecker.

pets

Ease the Way

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | January 21st, 2013

SOFT BEDS, RAMPS AND GENTLE EXERCISE WILL KEEP OLD DOGS MORE COMFORTABLE

Regular, gentle exercise is key to health and happiness for senior dogs.

Don't let your older dog sit around: As your dog ages, build him up to regular, moderate exertion and wean him off the intense, leaping games of fetch or the pavement-pounding miles of running you may have enjoyed together in his younger days. Break it up: Instead of taking one long walk a day, take two shorter ones. And look for the opportunity to add low-key "brain games" using food puzzles or nose-work that functions as hide-and-seek for your pet.

Be sure the lowered intensity and duration of activity doesn't turn into weight gain. Extra weight puts more pressure on your dog's joints, and clogs up the efficient engine of his internal systems. If anything, keep your dog on the lean side of normal.

More tips for senior dogs include:

-- Stop slipping and sliding: A common problem among senior dogs is increasing unsteadiness on their feet. There are lots of possible contributing factors, including arthritis, hip dysplasia, nonspecific aches and pains, and the association of one unfortunate slip with more to come. If the problem is one small slippery area, such as a tiled entryway, firmly attach a throw rug with double-sided tape. If a whole room or a hallway is an issue, head to the toy store for interlocking foam play mats. These mats, designed for toddlers, can be configured in any shape or direction you need, and they'll provide a soft, non-slippery surface for your elderly dog's paws. You can rearrange them or take them up at any time.

-- It's all about the bed: Many senior dogs sleep 16 hours a day or more. With all that time spent snoozing, it's not surprising that the most important place to many dogs is the bed. Choose beds that are well-padded and warm. If your dog has arthritis, double up the beds or add egg crate or memory foam padding for extra cushioning. And add more beds: Offering a variety of beds throughout your home will give your dog ways to catch his naps while staying close to you. Finally, mix up the fabrics: You may find your dog's favorite kind of bed covering changes depending on the weather and his mood.

-- Flavorful food: If your senior dog is healthy and trim but seems to be losing his appetite, try a little extra flavoring for his food. A few little jars of strained-meat baby food (look for no- or low-salt varieties, and skip labels with onion and garlic) in the pantry will give you lots of healthy options to "kick it up" for your pup. A small spoonful of baby food will add new flavor and texture to your dog's old food. To really amp it up, try putting the dog food in the microwave for a few seconds. Warming dog food releases its aromas and makes it more pungent. For a dog with sensory loss, the smell of his food warming in the microwave can be just the ticket to increase his appetite and his enjoyment of the meal. You can also make chicken or beef broth without salt, garlic or onions, and add warm to meals.

-- Ramp it up or give him a lift: Many companies make stairs and ramps to help dogs get to their usual, favorite places, including in the car or on the couch. These are often lightweight, well-designed and collapsible, or attractive enough (in the case of stair steps) to leave as a permanent part of the decor. And while it's certainly possible to use old towels as slings to help old dogs up and down stairs, you'll find a wide variety of slings with easy-grip handles that make the lifting easier for you -- since after a dog's lifetime, you may be no spring chicken, either.

It doesn't take much to make your older dog's life more comfortable, and knowing that you have will make you happier as well.

Q&A

Good reasons for

giving cats baths

Q: Is there really any need ever to bathe a cat? Seems they take care of themselves pretty well. -- via Facebook

A: Actually, there are some good reasons to bathe cats, and they're arguably strong enough to make it worth the effort to teach cats to tolerate baths while they're still easier-to-handle kittens.

Among the reasons why it's worth it: You may sometimes need to wash off something your cat got into, which you don't want him to ingest when he licks his coat. If this happens and your cat absolutely will not handle being bathed, talk to your veterinary hospital about having them handle it. Many groomers will also handle cats, and that's certainly an option for the routine grooming of long-haired cats (who may need to be shaved clear of mats), as well as for those cats who need to have sticky or dangerous material removed from their coats.

There's also a benefit to you in bathing your cat: It reduces shedding and allergies. Studies have shown that getting cats wet can reduce the sneezing, wheezing and itchy eyes associated with allergies to cats. It may even make life with a cat possible for people who are mildly or even moderately allergic to them. You don't have to bother with soap for allergies, though: Just rinsing a cat weekly reduces the dander that triggers allergy attacks.

While it's decidedly more difficult to teach an adult cat to tolerate bathing than to start a kitten with baths from the start, it can be done with most of them if you introduce the concept a little bit at a time, with lots of treats and praise. One note of caution: Use a shampoo that's labeled for cats, not dogs. If you use a dog shampoo that contains ingredients for combating fleas, you may put your cat's health at risk. This is true even of natural ingredients meant to repel fleas. In general, you should consult your vet before using any dog product on your cat. -- Dr. Marty Becker

Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com or visit Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker.

THE BUZZ

Pet jerky treats

pulled from market

-- Pet jerky treats from Nestle Purina and the Del Monte Corp. have been recalled. The move follows months of intense scrutiny by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, which last September put out a blunt warning to avoid buying chicken, duck or sweet potato jerky treats made in China or sourced from Chinese ingredients. The companies say the Milo's Kitchen, Waggin' Train and Canyon Creek Ranch treats are safe, but were pulled as a precaution after testing by government agencies revealed residual amounts of antibiotics in the products. The mystery remains why jerky treats are thought to have sickened or killed more than 2,000 pets, according to the FDA.

-- A cancer drug that proved a disappointment in human medicine but promising in fighting lymphoma in dogs may be heading to veterinary offices within the next couple of years. Veterinary Emerging Technologies Development Corp., or VetDC, says it has raised enough capital to market the drug, currently known as VDC-1101.

-- Under pressure from animal activists, the American Veterinary Medical Association is considering a policy that would discourage the practice of "debarking" in all cases except those where it's considered the only chance an animal has of staying in the home. The controversial practice, in which tissue is surgically removed from a dog's vocal cords, is one of a handful of elective procedures that have declined in favor in recent years, including ear cropping in dogs and declawing in cats. Many younger veterinarians refuse to do any of these formerly commonplace procedures. AVMA policy is considered a bellwether for change in the veterinary community, but the move would have no real teeth, since member veterinarians can perform the procedure anywhere they are legal if they so choose. -- Dr. Marty Becker and Gina Spadafori

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet care experts headed by "Good Morning America" and "The Dr. Oz Show" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are affiliated with Vetstreet.com and also the authors of many best-selling pet care books. Dr. Becker can also be found at Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker or on Twitter at DrMartyBecker.

pets

Two's Company

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | January 14th, 2013

ADDING ANOTHER ADULT CAT REQUIRES PREPARATION AND PATIENCE

It's not often that I have to take my own advice on something I've never done before, but that's exactly what happened recently, when I adopted a middle-aged cat and brought her home to live with an established middle-aged cat who didn't seem that interested in sharing his space.

The introductions were by the book -- my own book, "Cats for Dummies," to be precise -- and now both cats are happily co-habitating, enjoying the company not only of each other but also of my two dogs. The bed is a little crowded with all four of them on it, but I don't mind: It's worth it to see them all so happy together.

If you're thinking of adopting another adult cat, there is never a bad time. Here's how to ease the strain on new cat, old cat -- and you.

Successful introductions require laying the groundwork before you bring home a second cat. Your current cat and your new one should be spayed or neutered to reduce hormone-related behavior challenges. Your new pet will also need a visit to the veterinarian before coming home to be sure he's not bringing in parasites and contagious diseases that can put your established pet at risk.

Prepare a room for your new cat with food and water bowls, toys, and a litter box and scratching post that needn't be shared. This separate room will be your new pet's home turf while the two cats get used to each other's existence.

Then, start the introductions by pushing no introduction at all.

Bring the new cat home in a carrier and set the pet in the room you've prepared. Let your resident cat discover the caged pet on his own, and don't be discouraged by initial hisses. Let your resident cat explore awhile and then put him on the other side of the door and close it. When the new cat is alone with you in the room, open the carrier door. Leave the new cat alone in the room with the room door closed and the carrier door open, and let him choose to explore in his own way and time.

Maintain each cat separately for a week or so -- with lots of love and play for both -- and then on a day when you're around to observe, leave the door to the new cat's room open. If there are dogs in the house, put a baby gate across the door to give the cat an escape route where the dogs can't go. Don't force any of the pets together. Territory negotiations between cats can be drawn-out and delicate, and you must let them work it out on their own, ignoring the hisses and glares. As for dogs, let the cat decide how much to interact, if at all.

As the days go by, you can encourage both cats to play with you, using a cat "fishing pole" or a toy on a string. If they're willing, feed them in ever-closer proximity, taking your cue from the cats as to how quickly to proceed.

Some cats will always maintain their own territories within the house -- I've known pairs who happily maintained a one upstairs/one downstairs arrangement for life -- while others will happily share everything from litter boxes to food dishes. Let the cats figure it out, and don't force them to share if they don't want to. Some cats will always need separate litter boxes, scratching posts, bowls and toys -- and providing them is a small investment if it keeps the peace.

After six weeks, mine have -- and probably will always have -- separate litter boxes, but they share food, water dishes and space with obvious contentment. In fact, my established cat seems so happy for the company of his own kind that my only regret is not adopting another cat years ago.

Q&A

Straining cat

needs to see vet

Q: Our cat seems to be constipated. In the litter box he's straining, but I'm not finding results. Can I just give him a laxative? -- via email

A: A litter box isn't just a stinky chore that appears on the to-do list. It's an accurate gauge of your cat's digestive health. And, sometimes, no news is bad news.

While an occasional mild problem can often be resolved by adding fiber (canned pumpkin) and fluid (canned food, which has a higher water content than dry), it sounds as if your cat's problem is more serious. In cats, obstipation is described as the inability to defecate -- a very painful and serious condition that demands prompt veterinary attention. The causes of this backup are not well understood, but they result in intestines that become dilated and unable to push stools out of the body normally.

If your cat is straining or crying out while trying to defecate, or if you notice an absence of feces in the litter box, your pet has a potentially serious problem. Oddly, this blockage may initially appear as diarrhea because your cat's body -- so irritated by the retained feces -- may generate lots of watery fluid or mucus to try to cope. This discharge may seem like "ordinary" loose stools when passed.

Any changes in your cat's litter box habits need to be investigated by your veterinarian (the sooner the better!), and obstipation is no exception. -- Dr. Marty Becker

Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com or visit Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker.

THE BUZZ

Vets, shelters don't

always see eye to eye

-- Veterinarians support animal shelters and animal shelters support veterinarians -- but there's a gap in perception regarding how much mutual support there is. A survey by the CATalyst council (catalystcouncil.org) found that shelters say they refer new adopters to local veterinarians always or often 73 percent of the time, but veterinarians believed the figure was 42 percent. And 41 percent of veterinarians say their profession supports shelters, but shelters don't always support veterinarians. In turn, 35 percent of shelters surveyed thought shelters support veterinarians, but veterinarians don't always support shelters.

-- Want to know what's in your intestines -- or your dog's? The VIN News Service (news.vin.com) notes that for as little as $99, researchers will survey your bacteria and issue a report. VIN's Edie Lau says the information has more value as a curiosity than a clinical aid, but the long-term value of the surveys may indeed offer some insight on the benefits and care of co-habitating bacteria. More information is at indiegogo.com/americangut.

-- At its most basic, the beak on our pet parrots consists of two hard structures, the upper and lower mandibles, along with an amazingly agile and strong tongue. Beaks are remarkably well-designed for one of their most important tasks: cracking, crushing, prying or otherwise destroying the protective coatings around many of the foods parrots like to eat. Like everything else on a creature designed for flight, the beak is surprisingly lightweight considering its strength -- a hard shell of constantly growing material (similar to that found on antlers) placed over a hollow, bony structure. If a beak were made of solid bone, its weight would probably force a bird to spend his life on the ground, and on his nose. — Dr. Marty Becker and Gina Spadafori

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet care experts headed by "Good Morning America" and "The Dr. Oz Show" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are affiliated with Vetstreet.com and also the authors of many best-selling pet care books. Dr. Becker can also be found at Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker or on Twitter at DrMartyBecker.

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