ADDING ANOTHER ADULT CAT REQUIRES PREPARATION AND PATIENCE

It's not often that I have to take my own advice on something I've never done before, but that's exactly what happened recently, when I adopted a middle-aged cat and brought her home to live with an established middle-aged cat who didn't seem that interested in sharing his space.

The introductions were by the book -- my own book, "Cats for Dummies," to be precise -- and now both cats are happily co-habitating, enjoying the company not only of each other but also of my two dogs. The bed is a little crowded with all four of them on it, but I don't mind: It's worth it to see them all so happy together.

If you're thinking of adopting another adult cat, there is never a bad time. Here's how to ease the strain on new cat, old cat -- and you.

Successful introductions require laying the groundwork before you bring home a second cat. Your current cat and your new one should be spayed or neutered to reduce hormone-related behavior challenges. Your new pet will also need a visit to the veterinarian before coming home to be sure he's not bringing in parasites and contagious diseases that can put your established pet at risk.

Prepare a room for your new cat with food and water bowls, toys, and a litter box and scratching post that needn't be shared. This separate room will be your new pet's home turf while the two cats get used to each other's existence.

Then, start the introductions by pushing no introduction at all.

Bring the new cat home in a carrier and set the pet in the room you've prepared. Let your resident cat discover the caged pet on his own, and don't be discouraged by initial hisses. Let your resident cat explore awhile and then put him on the other side of the door and close it. When the new cat is alone with you in the room, open the carrier door. Leave the new cat alone in the room with the room door closed and the carrier door open, and let him choose to explore in his own way and time.

Maintain each cat separately for a week or so -- with lots of love and play for both -- and then on a day when you're around to observe, leave the door to the new cat's room open. If there are dogs in the house, put a baby gate across the door to give the cat an escape route where the dogs can't go. Don't force any of the pets together. Territory negotiations between cats can be drawn-out and delicate, and you must let them work it out on their own, ignoring the hisses and glares. As for dogs, let the cat decide how much to interact, if at all.

As the days go by, you can encourage both cats to play with you, using a cat "fishing pole" or a toy on a string. If they're willing, feed them in ever-closer proximity, taking your cue from the cats as to how quickly to proceed.

Some cats will always maintain their own territories within the house -- I've known pairs who happily maintained a one upstairs/one downstairs arrangement for life -- while others will happily share everything from litter boxes to food dishes. Let the cats figure it out, and don't force them to share if they don't want to. Some cats will always need separate litter boxes, scratching posts, bowls and toys -- and providing them is a small investment if it keeps the peace.

After six weeks, mine have -- and probably will always have -- separate litter boxes, but they share food, water dishes and space with obvious contentment. In fact, my established cat seems so happy for the company of his own kind that my only regret is not adopting another cat years ago.

Q&A

Straining cat

needs to see vet

Q: Our cat seems to be constipated. In the litter box he's straining, but I'm not finding results. Can I just give him a laxative? -- via email

A: A litter box isn't just a stinky chore that appears on the to-do list. It's an accurate gauge of your cat's digestive health. And, sometimes, no news is bad news.

While an occasional mild problem can often be resolved by adding fiber (canned pumpkin) and fluid (canned food, which has a higher water content than dry), it sounds as if your cat's problem is more serious. In cats, obstipation is described as the inability to defecate -- a very painful and serious condition that demands prompt veterinary attention. The causes of this backup are not well understood, but they result in intestines that become dilated and unable to push stools out of the body normally.

If your cat is straining or crying out while trying to defecate, or if you notice an absence of feces in the litter box, your pet has a potentially serious problem. Oddly, this blockage may initially appear as diarrhea because your cat's body -- so irritated by the retained feces -- may generate lots of watery fluid or mucus to try to cope. This discharge may seem like "ordinary" loose stools when passed.

Any changes in your cat's litter box habits need to be investigated by your veterinarian (the sooner the better!), and obstipation is no exception. -- Dr. Marty Becker

Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com or visit Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker.

THE BUZZ

Vets, shelters don't

always see eye to eye

-- Veterinarians support animal shelters and animal shelters support veterinarians -- but there's a gap in perception regarding how much mutual support there is. A survey by the CATalyst council (catalystcouncil.org) found that shelters say they refer new adopters to local veterinarians always or often 73 percent of the time, but veterinarians believed the figure was 42 percent. And 41 percent of veterinarians say their profession supports shelters, but shelters don't always support veterinarians. In turn, 35 percent of shelters surveyed thought shelters support veterinarians, but veterinarians don't always support shelters.

-- Want to know what's in your intestines -- or your dog's? The VIN News Service (news.vin.com) notes that for as little as $99, researchers will survey your bacteria and issue a report. VIN's Edie Lau says the information has more value as a curiosity than a clinical aid, but the long-term value of the surveys may indeed offer some insight on the benefits and care of co-habitating bacteria. More information is at indiegogo.com/americangut.

-- At its most basic, the beak on our pet parrots consists of two hard structures, the upper and lower mandibles, along with an amazingly agile and strong tongue. Beaks are remarkably well-designed for one of their most important tasks: cracking, crushing, prying or otherwise destroying the protective coatings around many of the foods parrots like to eat. Like everything else on a creature designed for flight, the beak is surprisingly lightweight considering its strength -- a hard shell of constantly growing material (similar to that found on antlers) placed over a hollow, bony structure. If a beak were made of solid bone, its weight would probably force a bird to spend his life on the ground, and on his nose. — Dr. Marty Becker and Gina Spadafori

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet care experts headed by "Good Morning America" and "The Dr. Oz Show" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are affiliated with Vetstreet.com and also the authors of many best-selling pet care books. Dr. Becker can also be found at Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker or on Twitter at DrMartyBecker.

PETS NEED SAFE, COMFORTABLE COLLARS AND CURRENT ID FOR PROTECTION IF LOST

It's a New Year's tradition around my home, one that has outlived three generations of pets but still works to help ensure the safety of the animals I live with now: I call the pets over and check their necks.

I always do my "neck checks" around the first of the year. It's easy, taking a few minutes to check for wear and fit on the collars, and for legibility on the tags.

Consider the collar first. A properly fitted collar is important, but so is the right type. For dogs, a buckled or snap-together collar made of leather or nylon webbing is the best choice, and the proper fit is comfortably close, but not too snug. Make sure your dog's not wearing a "choke" or prong collar for everyday wear. These pose a potentially deadly hazard if left on an unsupervised dog.

Cat collars aren't as widely accepted because some people fear the collars will get caught on branches and trap the cat. Other people argue that their cat stays indoors and so never needs a collar. Neither argument's a good one: Any cat can slip out, and as for cats being caught by their collars, most cat collars are designed to give enough to allow a pet to slip free if caught.

If you don't have a safe collar, you'll find countless choices at your neighborhood pet-supply retailer, and even more online. One online favorite of mine: Beastie Bands for cats -- comfortable, colorful collars that stick tight unless a cat needs to lose them.

What if your pet already seems to have a comfortable, safe, well-fitting collar? Take a look at the holes and the fasteners. The collar is weakest at these spots, so if you see signs of excessive wear or strain, you'll need to replace the collar soon.

Next, look at your pet's ID tags. A license is great, but since many lost pets are picked up by people in the neighborhood, it's a good idea to supplement the license with an ID tag that has a couple of phone numbers -- yours and the number of a friend or relative. Check to make sure the information is current and legible, and if not, order a new tag. I never put the pet's name or my address on the tags. Instead, my pets' tags say "REWARD!" with a collection of phone numbers -- my cellphone number first, followed by the cellphone numbers of two friends in case I can't be reached. I want to get the point across that I want my pets back quickly.

If you're worried about a dangling ID getting caught -- or annoyed by the noise -- get a slide-on tag from an online source such as Boomerangtags.com. Looking for something a little more fun? Check out DogTagArt.com, which offers hundreds of designs, or allows you to upload an image of your own. DogTagArt.com also has a service for an additional charge that will allow anyone who finds your pet to contact you immediately through a web-based service that sends text and phone messages to you and any other contacts you designate.

Problems with collars and tags are easy to fix, but they shouldn't be the extent of your pet's get-home-safe insurance policy. If your pet isn't microchipped already, call your veterinarian and get that done. About the size of a grain a rice, the microchip has reunited pets with families who were sure they'd never see them again, and saved the lives of others whose chip was a ticket home when they landed in a shelter.

Q&A

Pet dishes need

to be kept clean

Q: I love my cat and my dog, but I am pretty determined to keep things clean in my house. I always wash my pets' food dishes after they eat, and wash the water dish daily in soap and warm water before refilling. Over the holidays, I got in a discussion with my sister, who points out that pets drink from puddles and eat nasty stuff given any opportunity. She is a lot less fastidious about her dog's dish as a result. I think she's nuts. What do you think? -- via e-mail

A. I think I'm in no position to opine about anyone's relative sanity, considering my own happily crazy life filled with animal companions. But I do think keeping pet dishes clean is very important, and so does the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, which points out that recent pet food recalls for salmonella mean people can get sick from pet food if proper handling isn't practiced.

The FDA suggests preparing pet meals away from human food-prep areas, but given that food sold for human consumption also carries the risk of foodborne illness, I think you'll be fine keeping things as you have been. Safe food-handling practices for all foods, whether for pets or people, are necessary in this day and age.

In other words: You're not being too careful for either yourself or your pets by picking up your pets' food dishes after every meal and cleaning them. The water dish should get the same treatment on a daily basis. Given the recalls on peanut butter, it's not a bad idea to do the same with any hard chew toys that can be stuffed, such as a durable mainstay of generations of canine chewers, the Kong toy.

Better still, run toys and dishes through the hottest cycle of the dishwasher to get them really clean and sterilized. Stainless steel or heavy plastic "crock-style" dishes are best for frequent cleaning: They last forever and stand up well to the abuse a pet can dish out. I myself prefer stainless steel, and the investment has proven a wise one: I have dishes that are more than 20 years old, and still come out of the dishwater looking like new. -- Gina Spadafori

Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com or visit Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker.

THE BUZZ

Catnip a safe 'buzz'

your cat can enjoy

-- Catnip is a harmless pleasure for those cats who enjoy it. After all, it's a rare cat that ever has to operate heavy machinery, drive or take a call from a telemarketer. Don't be alarmed if the 'nip has no effect, though. Catnip (Nepeta cataria) makes some cats very happy -- but doesn't do a thing for others. Kittens under the age of 3 months do not react to catnip, and not all cats are genetically programmed to react to it -- the split is about 50-50. For those felines who do get a buzz, it's a safe high, and easy to grow at home to provide a near-endless supply. Just keep your plants where your cat can't get them, so they don't get ripped out by the roots.

-- Pet food donated in the wake of Hurricane Sandy has ended up in a warehouse begging for takers after the outpouring of generosity overwhelmed the short-term demand. The VIN New Service (news.vin.com) reports that only six of 46 pallets of donated foods were distributed, with the rest taking up space volunteered by ZipJack Custom Umbrellas, a small company in Elmsford, N.Y. The company is working around the pallets while its owner and the local veterinarian who worked together to help their pet-owning neighbors figure out ways to get the food to people who can use it.

-- Should your pet get probiotics? The science has been presented at veterinary conferences for a few years now, and it's pretty convincing. As with many veterinary issues, it tracks closely with developments in human health, where probiotics -- "good" bacteria added to the gut -- are widely accepted as beneficial. While some pet foods are advertised to contain probiotics, there are also supplements from well-respected companies that can be added to a pet's diet. -- Dr. Marty Becker and Gina Spadafori

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet care experts headed by "Good Morning America" and "The Dr. Oz Show" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are affiliated with Vetstreet.com and also the authors of many best-selling pet care books. Dr. Becker can also be found at Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker or on Twitter at DrMartyBecker.

TOYS ARE ESSENTIAL TO KEEPING YOUR CAT ACTIVE AND HAPPY

Inside every cat is a lion. Or a tiger. Or a lynx. Or, really, all of these great hunters. And in your cat's mind, he's a wild predator, too.

In fact, all cats are. They love to lurk and prowl and chase and pounce. An indoor cat doesn't have the opportunity to go after real prey (unless you have mice in your home), but he still has strong hunting instincts. This genetic coding doesn't disappear just because he lives a royal lifestyle in your home and has his meals delivered on the feline equivalent of a silver platter.

When a cat's need to hunt isn't fulfilled with live action, he turns to the next best thing: feet moving beneath the covers, hands dangling at an owner's side, arms, legs, you name it. Instead of letting a kitten believe your body parts are fair game, provide him with toys that will satisfy his urge to hunt as well as save your skin.

It's all too easy to accidentally encourage kittens to bite or scratch in play, but this type of aggressive behavior can turn into a big, painful problem as the kitten gets bigger. Never "arm wrestle" with a young cat, and keep some distance between you through play with toys that don't involve direct contact with the kitten. When kitten teeth or claws touch human skin, screech loudly and immediately walk away. Kittens learn fast that playing rough ends the game, especially when there are other things to play with.

Cats like toys they can stalk, chase, pounce on and bite. Turn your home into an indoor hunting ground with perches for watching the outdoor world go by (such as a window-box bird feeder), scratching posts for paw marking and nail maintenance, cat trees for climbing, resting and observing, and an ever-changing assortment of toys, toys, toys.

Puzzle toys are particularly good for giving your cat an outlet for his hunting instincts and ensuring that he keeps his sleek, sinewy physique. Wands with feathers or other dangly bits and wind-up or battery-operated toys that move on their own excite a cat's chase instinct. Balls inside a track let him paw for "prey," just as if he were exploring a mouse hole. The fast, erratic motion of laser pointers and flashlights increase a cat's ability to think and move quickly. (Direct the beam up and down the stairs to give him a real workout.) And don't forget the classic catnip-filled mice for rolling and rabbit-kicking under the influence.

To keep your cat interested in his toys, change them out every few days. If he sees the same ones over and over again, he'll get bored and look for something new to play with. Cats being who they are, it will probably be something expensive or fragile that you don't want him to treat as a toy.

Those laser pointers, flashlights and wand toys have especially high value to cats because they are just so darn much fun. Bring them out less often than other toys, and limit the amount of time your cat is allowed to play with them. For some cats these toys are addictive, and they will stand in front of the closet where the laser or wand is stored and yowl plaintively until they are brought out.

Remember, if you give in even once, you have just taught your cat exactly how to manipulate you. To help soften your cat's disappointment when these favorite toys go up, reward him with a treat afterward or give him another favorite toy, like a catnip mouse.

The word "toy" just doesn't seem to cover how important these items are to our pets, especially an indoor cat. Indulge your pet with the gift of play, and you'll both be happier for it.

Q&A

Ignore barking dog

to end phone follies

Q: When I get on the phone, my dog starts barking. Why, and how can I get her to stop? -- via Facebook

A: Anyone who has ever worked as a telemarketer can tell you that lots of dogs start barking the minute their owners get on the phone. Why? Because they've been taught to behave that way -- accidentally, of course.

The problem starts when a dog barks at you just once when you're on the phone. Maybe she wants your attention. Maybe she just felt like barking at that moment. If she did it while you were watching TV or paying the bills, you'd probably ignore her. That means no reward for the behavior, which also means it's not likely to be repeated.

But if you're on the phone, you don't want the person on the other end to hear your dog barking, or to hear you yell at your dog to shut up. Chances are that you'll pet your dog or throw her plush toy across the room just to keep her quiet. Before too long, you have a dog who starts yapping every time you pick up the phone, because that behavior has been rewarded.

Sometimes, it even goes a step further. There are plenty of people who give their dog a treat to shut her up while they're on the phone. This is a big payoff for the dog, who is now rewarded for every yip with a cookie. Why would she stop barking? Dogs are not stupid.

The best way to avoid this problem is to prevent it: Don't reward your dog in the short term for behaviors you don't want in the long run. If she barks when you pick up the phone, ignore her. If that doesn't work, or if your dog is already a phone pest, ask your veterinarian for a referral to a dog trainer who can help you re-train her to be quiet on command. -- Dr. Marty Becker

Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com or visit Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker.

THE BUZZ

Antifreeze gets

a safety makeover

-- The manufacturers of antifreeze and engine coolant have agreed to add a bittering agent to their products, making them far less likely to poison pets and wildlife. In its original state, these products taste sweet, making them attractive to animals. The active ingredient, ethylene glycol, is highly toxic in small amounts and quickly absorbed, making veterinary response difficult and death common for animals that ingest the product. A number of states have mandated that bittering agents be added before products can be sold, but the voluntary agreement, brokered by the Humane Society Legislative Fund, expands the sale of the new formulation to all 50 states.

-- Like humans, dogs have two kinds of sleep. The deeper kind is characterized by rapid eye movements, so it's known as REM sleep. We know humans dream during REM sleep. We also know that the whining, heavy breathing, twitching and leg movements we've all seen in our dogs occur during canine REM sleep. So it's not a far fetch to believe dogs are dreaming, too. What are they dreaming about? We'll likely never know.

-- In veterinary circles, the popular Labrador retriever has the reputation as a breed that it will "chew 'til they're 2, and shed 'til they're dead." Bred to carry things in their mouths, it's no surprise that these dogs sometimes swallow them, too -- and without chewing first, as in the case of Ryder, a Lab puppy in Wilmington, Del., who swallowed an antler. Ryder's antler was safely removed by his veterinarian, and the dog's mishap was named "The Most Unusual Claim of the Month" by Veterinary Pet Insurance. -- Dr. Marty Becker and Gina Spadafori

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet care experts headed by "Good Morning America" and "The Dr. Oz Show" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are affiliated with Vetstreet.com and also the authors of many best-selling pet care books. Dr. Becker can also be found at Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker or on Twitter at DrMartyBecker.