pets

Couch Potato Canines

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | December 10th, 2012

IF YOU DON'T HAVE TIME TO EXERCISE A HIGH-ENERGY DOG, CHOOSE ONE WHO'S A BETTER FIT

Every month I go to my local public radio station for a short feature on pets and their care. While I'm always prepared for the topic we've chosen for the show, I'm sometimes caught off-guard by the questions other guests ask me in the "green room" before the show.

These are all extremely accomplished people in their own fields, but in my area of expertise, they can have some pretty off-the-mark ideas. Such was the case recently when a top atmospheric scientist asked me to confirm for him that the vizsla, a Hungarian hunting breed, would be a "low maintenance" pet.

Low maintenance? Not unless your idea of that includes a couple daily exercise sessions that would exhaust someone training for a marathon. Like many hunting dogs, the vizsla is bred for a hard day's work in rough terrain. For someone looking for a dog who'd snooze the days away alone in a downtown condo, his choice of dog could hardly be worse.

He told me he wanted shorthaired, medium-sized and laid-back, and he was surprised when I suggested he consider a retired racing greyhound, likely a female to come in on the smaller size. He thought that a racing dog would have nonstop energy, but on the contrary, greyhounds are lovingly known by their families as "40 mph couch potatoes." You want a dog to snooze the day away? This is that dog.

That doesn't mean the vizsla isn't a good dog ... for someone else. I have high-energy dogs of a similar hunting breed, and I manage their exercise needs by making sure there's room for lots of fetch in my schedule. If I couldn't or didn't want to exercise them constantly, I wouldn't have dogs like these. But too many people don't consider a dog's energy levels when choosing an animal companion, and that often leads to frustration for both dog and owner.

Look at the big, active dogs we adore, such as the Labrador, golden retriever and German shepherd. These breeds are high on the American Kennel Club's list of the most popular, and they're also well-represented as adoption candidates in shelters, both purebreds and mixes. You don't have to go far down the popularity list to find other active breeds as well -- dogs whose genetics have prepared them to work both hard and often.

What are they doing to burn off all that natural energy? Barking, digging, chewing and often making their owners very unhappy.

If you're thinking of getting a dog, think seriously about which breed you want and whether you can provide an active dog with the exercise he needs. If you can't honestly say that your dog will get 30 minutes of heart-thumping aerobic exercise at least three to four days a week -- daily is better -- then you really ought to reconsider getting an active large breed.

Instead, consider the alternatives. For large breeds, look at the sight hounds, such as the greyhound I suggested, the saluki or even the massive Irish wolfhound. These breeds were not developed to work all day like the retriever, husky and sheepdog, but rather to go all out for a short period of time and then chill out for hours. They're big, but they're couch potatoes by choice. Many guarding breeds, such as Rottweilers, boxers and Akitas, also have relatively minimal exercise requirements. All dogs love and need their exercise, but not all dogs will go crazy if they don't get a ton of it.

Most small breeds are easy in the exercise department, too, not because they don't need a lot of it, but because it's not as difficult to exercise a small dog with short legs. A Yorkie, pug or corgi can get good exercise in a small yard or on a brisk walk.

Q&A

Holiday guests need

pet-friendly advice

Q: I want to make sure everyone knows not to have poinsettias as holiday decor if they have pets. Will you please spread the word? -- via Facebook

A: I am happy to spread the word about holiday hazards, including the happy fact that poinsettias are one thing you don't have to worry about. That's right: These traditional holiday plants are just fine around pets.

Now, I realize that many people think that their pet being anywhere within a three-block radius of a poinsettia will cause Mr. Whiskers to spontaneously explode, but you can rest assured that this is not the case. Yes, if eaten in sufficient quantities, the poinsettia can cause a mild and usually temporary stomach and intestinal upset, but this is more of a risk for your carpet than it is for your pet.

On the other hand, among the plants that do pose a hazard are mistletoe (causes more serious gastrointestinal and potential heart issues) and lilies (which can cause lethal kidney failure in cats at very small amounts). Holly, too, is a plant that needs to be off your holiday decorating list.

Instead of stressing about poinsettias, turn your attention to two things many careful pet lovers overlook: medications and foods sweetened with xylitol. It's essential to keep all medications, both for animals and people, prescription and over-the-counter, out of reach of pets at all times. That means you need to ask any guests if they have medications with them, and provide them with a safe, secure place to keep them while they're in your home. Keeping them in luggage or on top of the nightstand is just asking for tragedy when pets are in the home.

As for xylitol, this artificial sweetener seems to get more popular every year. If you have gum or breath mints in your purse or backpack, don't leave your bags where your pet can get into them. And again, remind your houseguests -- and your kids -- to be sure that these products are not where a pet can get to them. –Dr. Marty Becker

Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com or visit Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker.

THE BUZZ

Rabbit head tilt

a common malady

-- Head-tilting in rabbits is common and can be caused by a variety of diseases. A common name for head tilt is "wry neck," although the correct medical term is "vestibular disease." Rabbits with vestibular disease can have a head position that ranges from a few degrees to 180 degrees off the normal position. They can fall over, circle, have difficulty standing and develop eye injuries because the downward-facing eye is in a position of vulnerability. For rabbits with vestibular disease, the vast majority will recover most of their normal head position and lead normal lives, as long as good nursing, veterinary care and time for recovery are provided. Other rabbits, however, will have a lifelong residual head tilt even if the inner ear disease is cured.

-- The charity associated with the Banfield chain of veterinary clinics found in Petsmart stores is collecting pet food and donations through the end of the year for its annual drive to help seniors care for their pets. The Banfield Charitable Trust will assist Meals on Wheels with its pet food distribution programs, so elderly people who are housebound can continue to benefit from having pets in their homes.

-- On the fence about microchipping your cat? Researchers at Ohio State studied data from 53 shelters in 23 states and determined that a microchip is the best chance for reuniting lost cats with their families. The return-to-owner rate for cats was 20 times higher -- and two-and-a-half times higher for dogs -- for microchipped pets compared to rates of return for all stray cats and dogs that had entered the shelters. When a pet had a microchip, owners were located almost three-quarters of the time. When owners couldn't be found, it was usually because the pet's information hadn't been updated within the chip registry. -- Dr. Marty Becker and Gina Spadafori

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet care experts headed by "Good Morning America" and "The Dr. Oz Show" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are affiliated with Vetstreet.com and also the authors of many best-selling pet care books. Dr. Becker can also be found at Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker or on Twitter at DrMartyBecker.

pets

No Cutting the Quick

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | December 3rd, 2012

NAIL TRIMS DON'T HAVE TO BE A DOG'S WORST NIGHTMARE -- OR YOURS

Quick, look at your dog's feet. Are your pet's nails too long? Do you remember the last time you cut them? Are you dreading the next?

If they're too long and you've been putting off the chore because of how awful the experience was for you both, well, you're in good company -- or, at least in the majority. Everywhere I go, I see dogs with nails that desperately need trimming. And sometimes I don't even have to go anywhere: Even I can get so busy that I forget to trim them on my own dogs!

But keeping nails trimmed is important. Long nails can make walking uncomfortable and can even cause lameness. This is why trimming nails short -- they should be just off the ground when your pet is standing -- and then trimming them just a pinch every week is both important and far easier than cutting them back bloodily and painfully every few weeks or even months.

The problem with nails is that each has a blood vessel inside it. The trick is to trim to just beyond the end of this vein. If you nick it, the nail will bleed, and your dog will yelp. Everyone hits this vein on occasion, even veterinarians and groomers, which is why you should be sure to have blood-stopping powder on hand, such as Kwik Stop, before you start trimming.

If your dog has light-colored toenails, the blood vessel is the pink area. Black nails are harder to figure out, but you should be able to see the vein by shining a flashlight behind the nail. If you can't tell, just clip back a little at a time. If you draw blood, take a pinch of the powder and press it against the exposed tip of the nail for a few seconds to stop the bleeding.

If your dog's nails are so long that they're forcing her foot out of position, you can take them back to where they should be in two ways. The first is to cut a little off every few days: The quick recedes before you as you go. The second way is to have your veterinarian take them all the way back at once when your dog is under anesthesia, such as for a teeth cleaning. After the nails are at a proper length, keeping them that way is easy with a weekly trim.

If your dog is resistant to having her nails trimmed, work up to the task over a few weeks' time by taking the trimmer in hand and touching it to her feet, then her toes, then the nails, while praising her and giving her treats for each step. When she is used to having her feet handled, put the trimmer against the nail and praise and treat more still. Then trim a little off, and so on. Praise and more praise! Treats and more treats! Don't insist on getting all the nails done at once. Do one or two toes a night, and put the nippers away while you and your dog are feeling positive about the experience.

An alternative to nail trimming is nail grinding. You can buy a canine nail grinder, or just use a lightweight rotary grinding tool, such as the Dremmel.

Some dogs prefer having their nails ground instead of clipped, perhaps because with a grinder it's easy to stop before you hit the quick. The most important thing to remember when grinding is that nails can get hot while you're working on them. Don't grind continuously. Touch the grinder to the nail in very short bursts -- a second or two at most -- to keep the heat from building up. And make sure not to catch any fur while you're working. (Tip: Look for online videos on grinding nails to see the technique.)

Whichever method you're using to shorten the nails, don't forget the dewclaws, those extra toes you can find up on the inside of the leg. Not all dogs have them, but for those who do, neglected nails can be a problem. Long nails can catch on upholstery and tear the dewclaw partly off the leg. Keeping these nails short will prevent injury, which is why you haven't finished trimming nails until you've done the dew, too.

If you work with your pet frequently, trim just a little at a time and reward generously for cooperation, the days of nail-trimming dread will be behind you both, and your dog will step out more comfortably on your walks together.

Q&A

How to protect

pets from coyotes

Q: When I'm walking my dog through a parkway near my home, we occasionally see coyotes. While they seem to keep to themselves, we have had a couple of small dogs killed by them in their own yards. Judging by the "lost cats" signs, I suspect they've taken a few pet cats, too. I live in the suburbs of a big city, and I guess I'm surprised that coyotes will take a pet right under an owner's nose. Is there any way to protect our pets? This seems to be a relatively new problem here. -- via Facebook

A: Coyotes are everywhere, and they've learned that household pets are relatively easy prey. They've been able to use the ability to find food easily to expand their range dramatically. Coyotes are plentiful in suburban areas across the United States, and have even been reported in New York City and other highly urban environments.

Free-roaming cats seem to be especially at risk. Many times missing cats or the gruesome finding of feline remains is initially thought to be the work of sadistic cat-haters, but often these apparent "crime sprees" turn out to be the work of neighborhood coyotes. Keeping cats safely inside is the only way to completely protect them.

Small dogs are often targets of hungry coyotes as well, and for these pets, it's important to be sure to supervise them in your yard, especially if you back up to a wooded area, golf course or other potentially coyote-rich environment. When walking small dogs, don't let them off leash. Few coyotes are bold enough to get so close to a person as to snap up a leashed dog. Larger dogs are considerably less at risk, but not completely so, and it wouldn't hurt to keep a leash and close eye on them as well.

To discourage coyotes from colonizing your neighborhood, work with your neighbors to remove food sources that attract these predators, such as pet food left outside, garbage cans that aren't securely closed or compost piles that are not correctly maintained. If food sources are denied them, the animals will move on to a more promising area.

While none of these steps will completely protect your pets, they will reduce the risk from these ever-more-common predators. -- Dr. Marty Becker

Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com or visit Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker.

THE BUZZ

Male cats haven't

always been 'toms'

-- While a male cat -- especially an unneutered one -- is today called a "tom," that wasn't always the case. Up until the late 1700s, male cats were known as "rams" (like sheep) or "boars" (like pigs). A book about cats with a character named Tom became popular in the latter part of that century; after that, male cats started being called tomcats.

-- As noted by DVM360.com, a study by the Oregon Veterinary Medical Association highlights concerns that have been raised with human pharmacies dispensing drugs for pets. The OVMA reported that more than a third of veterinarians said that an external pharmacy changes a prescribed dosage or medication without asking for authorization. Even more concerning, 17 percent of the respondents said that their patients experienced adverse affects as a result of changes made by the pharmacies. In one case, a pharmacist recommended a product with acetaminophen for a pet, apparently unaware that the common pain-reliever is deadly for cats.

-- Providing palliative and end-of-life care is a trend in veterinary medicine that's resonating with pet owners, according to the VIN News Service (news.vin.com). There are now guidelines and organizations that promote the concept of hospice for pets, extending life without extending suffering for older or sick animals. The trend mirrors the human hospice movement in many ways, with the notable exception that when suffering can no longer be eased, veterinary medicine can offer euthanasia. Even the administration of euthanasia is changing, with many veterinarians offering to provide this last gift of kindness at patients' homes or in specially designed rooms in their practices. -- Dr. Marty Becker and Gina Spadafori

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet care experts headed by "Good Morning America" and "The Dr. Oz Show" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are affiliated with Vetstreet.com and also the authors of many best-selling pet care books. Dr. Becker can also be found at Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker or on Twitter at DrMartyBecker.

pets

Hidden Illness

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | November 26th, 2012

Fast reaction to early symptoms is a life-or-death matter for pet birds

Image: Parrot being petted

Caption: Parrots and other pet birds are good at hiding illnesses, which makes preventive care and prompt reaction to symptoms of illness critical to their survival.

A sick bird too often means a dead bird. That's because by the time their illness is noticed, birds are usually very ill indeed, and sometimes too far gone to be helped even by the best veterinarian.

Birds hide their illness, and that makes sense for wild birds. If you look sick in the wild, you'll attract the attention of a predator and will soon be someone's lunch. If you're lucky, you'll get better without your illness ever being spotted.

That's a good strategy for survival in the wild, but it doesn't work as well for pet birds. That's why some birds who seem fine one day are found dead the next. They were likely ill for a long time, but had managed to hide the symptoms.

The best way to catch an illness before your bird gets too sick to be helped is to have your pet see a veterinarian regularly. Your bird will be better off with a board-certified avian specialist, if there's one available in your area, or with a veterinarian who is comfortable treating birds and who keeps up with the latest available health information on these pets.

An avian veterinarian will go over your bird carefully, and will ask you questions meant to reveal any problems in your bird's health or behavior and in how you care for your pet. The veterinarian may suggest a couple of basic diagnostic tests. The idea is to correct any current problems and change anything that could become a risk in the long term, such as an improper diet.

If you suspect your bird is sick, call your veterinarian. Remember that a bird who appears ill may be in mortal danger, even if he seemed fine just the day before. Never try to treat your bird yourself. You may be misreading the symptoms and making matters worse.

It's sometimes difficult to judge what needs immediate attention and what can wait until tomorrow. Here are some guidelines in determining how best to respond to your bird's illness:

-- Life-threatening emergencies. These need to be dealt with immediately by a veterinarian. They include bites or deep cuts, bleeding that can't be stopped, burns, poisoning, difficulty breathing, collapse, blood in droppings, or straining to defecate or pass an egg. In these situations, you can't get help fast enough. If it's after hours and your regular avian veterinarian cannot be reached, you'll need to visit an emergency clinic. Not all of these treat birds, so take time now to explore your options so you'll know where to go in an emergency.

-- Urgent situations. Problems that should be seen by a veterinarian within a few hours of your noticing them include eye injuries, or a lack of interest in eating, especially if your bird also seems "puffed up."

Sudden swellings also demand relatively fast care, as do broken bones and diarrhea. Direct contact with dog or cat saliva, regardless of whether or not the skin was broken, is also an urgent matter -- your bird will likely need to be started on antibiotics right away.

-- See your veterinarian. Everything else falls into the not-so-urgent category, but even then, don't get complacent. If there's a problem, your pet should see his veterinarian the next day. And if any of the more urgent symptoms pop up, get help sooner.

No matter what, bear in mind that a "wait and see" attitude is not appropriate for a sick bird. When in doubt, you should at the very least call your veterinarian. Your bird's life may well depend on your prompt attention.

Q&A

Baby food can get

a sick pet eating

Q: When our cat got sick, our veterinarian recommended giving her human baby food to coax her to eat until she felt better. Is that a balanced diet for a cat? -- via Facebook

A: Pureed meat in those tiny jars meant for human babies is commonly recommended to help sick cats keep eating. The diet's not meant to be a long-term solution, but rather is an important strategy for keeping a sick cat from getting sicker.

As I'm sure your veterinarian told you, it's important to make sure you're not choosing a variety of baby food with onion powder in it, because of the risk the substance poses to your already ill cat. Read the label!

Warming up your cat's food will increase its appeal. Microwave it for 30 seconds or so, and then stir to eliminate any hot spots. You want the food to be a tick above your body temperature -- warm, but not hot. If your pet won't eat off a clean plate, try offering a little on the tip of your finger. Before you start, very gently clean any mucus accumulation from your cat's nose with a warm, damp washcloth to help him to better smell what you're offering.

Offer a little bit at a time, several times a day, instead of expecting a sick pet to eat a whole meal. If you're having no luck getting your cat to eat, call your veterinarian. There are medications that can stimulate appetite, and your veterinarian may want to prescribe one.

One final note: It's important when you're nursing a sick pet that you understand your veterinarian's instructions and get all your questions answered. Don't be afraid to call for more information if questions come up after you leave your veterinarian's office. Any good veterinarian would prefer that you completely understand what's required of you, rather than have you guess wrong when it comes to home nursing care with your pet's life is on the line. -- Dr. Marty Becker

Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com or visit Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker.

THE BUZZ

Donations make

a great gift

Looking for the perfect gift for the pet lovers in your life? Consider donating to animal-related charities. Even modest organizations, such as small local shelters and rescue groups, usually have gift membership programs in place. For your contribution, your gift should come with a year's subscription to the group's newsletter and sometimes discounts on local goods and services. Local groups often run on very small budgets, and your donations will really help.

Animal-health foundations are also a good bet. Your nearest school or college of veterinary medicine will have a fund set up to accept donations, either for scholarships or ongoing research into animal health. The Morris Animal Foundation (www.morrisanimalfoundation.org), AKC Canine Health Foundation (www.akcchf.org) and Winn Feline Foundation (www.winnfelinehealth.org) also accept donations to support research into animal health.

National advocacy groups have a wide range of programs and agendas, and you should investigate a group's goals and funding prior to making a donation in another's name. For every person who thinks the animal-rights group People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (www.peta.org) is courageous, there are at least that many who are extremely opposed to it. Likewise with a group such as Heifer International (www.heifer.org), which works to provide food animals to third-world countries. A heroic effort to some, but probably not the best donation in the name of the leather-avoiding vegan in your life.

Some animal-related charities are notorious for paying high salaries to executives while delivering relatively little funding to the programs they're supposed to be supporting. Several websites are good for investigating charities, among them Guidestar (www.guidestar.org) and CharityNavigator (www.charitynavigator.org). -- Dr. Marty Becker and Gina Spadafori

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet care experts headed by "Good Morning America" and "The Dr. Oz Show" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are affiliated with Vetstreet.com and also the authors of many best-selling pet care books. Dr. Becker can also be found at Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker or on Twitter at DrMartyBecker.

Next up: More trusted advice from...

  • If You Buy a Lawyer a Birthday Cake ...
  • Help! My Least-Favorite Neighbor Invited Me to a Party
  • Just Assume You're Always on Speakerphone
  • Enough Steps
  • Tourist Town
  • More Useful
  • Hemoglobin, Glucose and Prediabetes
  • Goiter, Iodine and Thyroid Health
  • Put a Lid on It
UExpressLifeParentingHomePetsHealthAstrologyOdditiesA-Z
AboutContactSubmissionsTerms of ServicePrivacy Policy
©2023 Andrews McMeel Universal