BAD PR ASIDE, RATS CAN BE WONDERFUL PETS FOR KIDS -- OR ADULTS

People are always asking me to recommend a good pet for a child -- an affectionate animal that can be cared for with a minimum of adult assistance.

"A rabbit?" they ask. I shake my head. Rabbits, especially the bigger varieties, are hard for a child to hold. When they don't feel secure, rabbits will kick -- and by doing so will sometimes break their backs. The result? A dead rabbit and a heartbroken child. So no rabbits, at least not for young children.

Mice? "Too small, too fragile," I reply. Hamster? "Better, but too interested in sleeping during the day, plus they're natural escape artists and somewhat nippy," I say.

"Well, what then?" the parent will finally demand.

To them I say, "Rats."

And after the air clears of expressions of revulsion and disgust, I explain why a healthy rat from a reputable source is a great pet for a child -- and indeed for almost any animal lover.

Forget horror movies and the bubonic plague. We're not talking about wild rats, but domesticated ones. Let go of everything you've ever thought about rats and consider the benefits with an open mind.

-- Rats are social animals. Many small pets don't like being handled, but rats get used to careful socialization easily, and come to enjoy riding in pockets and on shoulders. They like people!

-- Rats are smart. Rats respond quickly to food-based training and seem to love performing. A friend of mine trained a rat for her college-level psychology course, and came to like the little guy so much that he's now a doted-on pet in her home.

-- Rats are agile and sturdy. Try to get a guinea pig to run a maze or climb a ladder and you'll appreciate the fleet-footedness of a rat. Unlike mice, rats can stand up to the handling and, occasionally, to the unintentional mishandling of well-meaning children.

-- Rats are cute. Think sleek, shiny fur with dark, glossy eyes and cute little ears. You say it's the tail that gets to you? Give a rat a break. If he just had a fluffy tail, he'd be a squirrel, and people would give him nuts in the park. Really, is that fair?

-- Rats are diverse. Did you know that rats come in many more colors and patterns than the gray-brown of a street rat and the white of a lab rat? Think colors such as silver mink, platinum, blue and chocolate, and markings including hooded (the head a different color than the body) or masked. Gorgeous!

-- Rats are easy to keep. Get a cage sized for a slightly larger animal, such as a chinchilla or guinea pig, and your rat will be content. Add bedding, a place for the animal to hide and sleep, a food dish and a water bottle, some toys, and you're set. Your rat will happily eat the food manufactured for him, and he will love you if you add fruit, nuts, vegetables and other "people food."

It is essential to get your pet from a reputable source. And as with all pets, teaching children safe handling skills -- especially with regard to hand-washing after playing with pets -- is a must. You should also prepare to teach your child lessons in life's losses, since rats typically live about three years.

Even with those caveats, the only thing rats need to become more popular as pets is a good public relations campaign, and maybe a new name. Skinny-tailed squirrels, perhaps?

Q&A

Two cats can't be

expected to share

Q: We already had an adult cat. We adopted a kitten, and now that she's half-grown, we have litter box issues, specifically wars over the box. What should we do to make them "share the bathroom"? -- via email

A: One box is not enough. You should have one box for each cat, plus one. If you have one cat, you need two litter boxes. Two cats, three litter boxes. Put them in different locations. For instance, keep one upstairs and one downstairs. That way, one is always convenient. And with more than one cat, it prevents fights over who gets to use which box when it's needed.

Some cats like to ambush others when they use the litter box, so place litter boxes in locations with easy escape routes. Privacy is important, too. Cats don't want to pee or poop next to each other any more than you'd want to do so with somebody right next to you. Another good reason to have multiple litter boxes: Each cat may prefer a different type of litter.

What about what goes inside the box? There are all kinds of different cat litter, and they all have pros and cons. Most cats prefer clumping litter because of its soft, sandy feel. It's easy on the paws and easy to scoop. Other cats might like a fine-grained clay litter. Look for one that comes in a dust-free formula. Some cat litter is easier on the Earth, made from recycled paper or natural substances like corncobs or wheat. But if your cat doesn't like it, you'll be throwing a lot of it out, which is not that environmentally friendly, so you may be back to regular clumping litter. Let the cats pick their preferences by offering a "litter box buffet."

Avoid scented litter. It might smell good to you, but that perfumed odor can be sensory overload for a cat. Using scented litter can be one of the quickest ways to encourage your cat to go outside the litter box. -- Dr. Marty Becker

Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com or visit Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker.

THE BUZZ

Purebred dogs help

with human health

-- Efforts to identify genetic markers for diseases are getting a boost from purebred dogs. While people (aside from, possibly, royal families) breed more or less randomly, purebred dogs have traceable lineage, and typically trace from a small population of dogs. Writing in The New England Journal of Medicine, Elaine Ostrander of the National Human Genome Research Institute noted that this means canine genes may hold the answers to conditions such as epilepsy and those that cause blindness and kidney cancer.

-- The trend toward ever-fatter dogs and cats continues, according to DVM360.com. Citing data gathered by Banfield Pet Hospitals, the industry news website noted that veterinary visits by more than 2 million dogs and 430,000 cats revealed weight gains in both populations. The incidence of excessive weight in dogs is up 37 percent since 2007. The incidence in cats is worse, with the prevalence of overweight cats increasing 90 percent since 2007.

-- Many cats in chronic renal failure are maintained for months and even years with regular at-home administration of subcutaneous fluids. (A wonderful tutorial is on the DVM360.com website at http://tinyurl.com/PetConSubQ.) While at-home treatment is relatively easy and inexpensive, the future of kitty kidney care may be stem cells. Colorado State University researchers are conducting a study of cats who have chronic renal failure but no other health problems to determine how stem cells affect kidney disease. -- Dr. Marty Becker and Gina Spadafori

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet care experts headed by "Good Morning America" and "The Dr. Oz Show" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are affiliated with Vetstreet.com and also the authors of many best-selling pet care books. Dr. Becker can also be found at Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker or on Twitter at DrMartyBecker.

HAVE A PLAN FOR YOUR PET JUST IN CASE SOMETHING HAPPENS TO YOU

It's a sad fact of modern life that when we think about disasters, our minds now add terrorist attacks and mass shootings to the natural calamities for which we've long been urged to keep our families prepared -- pets included, of course.

But the fact remains that we're far more likely to encounter a tragedy that won't make the news. Accidents, illness and even sudden death are regular visitors to our lives, and they commonly don't raise an eyebrow outside our immediate circle of friends and family. If something happens to you today, your pets need to be looked after, whether the situation will be temporary or, sadly, permanent.

Are you prepared?

The first step is to make sure someone (or better yet, a couple of people) know that you have pets, where they are and how to care for them. Trade information with other pet-keeping friends, family or neighbors, along with the keys to each other's homes.

I like to recommend making a folder with all your pet's information. Pictures and a physical description of your pet are a good place to start. Add to the file an overview of your pet's medical records, including proof of altering and dates of vaccinations. Instructions for any medications should include not only the dosage and where to find the bottle, but also whatever method you use to entice your pet to swallow the pill.

Don't forget a copy of your pet's license, as well as the name, address and phone number of the animal's veterinarian. Write down some information about the tricks and commands your pet knows, as well as any unique personality quirks, such as a favorite spot to be petted. Keeping all this information in an electronic file is also a good idea -- as long as there are directions on how to find it!

As part of your preparation, talk to your veterinarian about setting up plans for emergency care or boarding. If you're a long-term client who always pays bills promptly, you should have no problem getting your veterinarian to agree to run a tab or charge to your credit card if you cannot be reached immediately. I have an arrangement with my veterinarian that if anyone -- absolutely anyone -- comes in with one of my animals, the doctor will take the pet in and do what needs to be done. And he knows that either I or my heirs will settle the bill later. If you are able to make such arrangements, put those details in the folder, too, and include any information on pet health insurance policies, as well.

The final bit of information for the folder should concern arrangements for your pet if you never come home again. While no one likes to think about this possibility, you have a responsibility to your pets to provide for them after your death. You cannot leave money directly to an animal, but you can leave the animal and money to cover expenses to a trusted friend or relative. In some states, you can establish a trust in your pet's name. Talk to an attorney about what arrangement is best for you and your pets.

You should keep a copy of the file on hand in case you ever need to be evacuated with your pet. And be sure to trade copies with the person you'll be counting on to rescue your pet should you ever not be able to.

Once you have made all the arrangements, make up a card for your wallet. On it, you should note that you have pets, how many and what kind, and the names and numbers of the people whom you have designated to care for them should you suddenly become unable to do so.

A few years ago, I had major surgery, and although everything turned out well, I didn't take it for granted that I would survive, much less thrive. I put such a folder together for each of my pets, complete with arrangements for the worst-case scenario. I surprised myself in that I didn't find the exercise frightening or depressing. On the contrary, I found great peace in knowing that if something happened to me, my beloved pets would be taken care of.

Q&A

'Toweling' keeps parrots

from biting when handled

Q: My parrot has bitten me badly when I've tried to clip flight feathers or nails. How can I make this easier on us both? -- via e-mail

A: Make sure you're doing these procedures properly to minimize pain. Have an expert show you exactly where and how much to clip those flight feathers and nails, and learn what to do if things get bloody by accident. Ideally, that should be an avian veterinarian, a veterinary technician or someone on the staff of a reputable bird shop.

You'll also need a towel to restrain your bird, and ask for a demonstration of the art of "toweling." An old, clean hand towel is fine for small parrots such as cockatiels and budgies, while a larger bath towel is better for large parrots such as cockatoos and macaws.

My "Birds For Dummies" co-author, avian veterinarian Dr. Brian Speer, says that toweling shouldn't be frightening for the bird. He suggests that you hold the towel with the ends draped over each hand, make eye contact with your bird, and approach from the front. Show your bird the towel and then gently wrap it around the bird, usually from the front. When using a towel to restrain your bird, you do not need to keep direct hold of the head, but do expect a few new holes to be chewed in the towel while you're working with your bird.

Wrap the towel tightly enough to control your bird, but not so tightly as to restrict breathing. Pet birds breathe by moving their breastbones forward and back, like a bellows. You must leave the towel wrapped loosely enough for your bird to draw breath normally.

When your bird is gently wrapped up in the towel, you are in control and can take care of grooming or of investigating any injuries. Attitude is everything: Always handle your bird with respect, but also with gentle firmness.

Keep in mind, too, that the towel is not supposed to terrify your bird. It's a good idea to play "towel games" now and then, covering and uncovering your bird while providing praise and special seeds for treats. That way, your bird won't come to believe the appearance of the towel is always a sign of something uncomfortable and unpleasant to come. -- Gina Spadafori

Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com or visit Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker.

THE BUZZ

Obesity clinic opens

at Tufts vet school

-- Can fat camp be far behind? Veterinarian Dr. Deborah Linger, a certified veterinary nutritionist, has opens an obesity clinic at the Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine at Tufts University. In yet another example of how trends in human medicine are mirrored in veterinary medicine, the program offers a medical-based regimen that includes counseling on nutrition and exercise, all aimed at helping pet owners trim down their animal companions. More than half of all pets are overweight or obese, and the problem is far from cosmetic -- excess weight triggers chronic disease, including diabetes, and makes problems such as arthritis worse.

-- Following the shocking deaths of lions, tigers, bears and other exotic animals last fall on an Ohio farm after their owner released them before committing suicide, the state has now put regulations in place in hopes of preventing similar tragedies. Ohio was once one of the easiest and least regulated places to keep exotic animals, but no more: The new law prohibits buying, selling, transferring and trading exotic animals. Those who already have them will be allowed to keep them, but they must obtain a license, insurance and have the pets microchipped, among other requirements.

-- The latest specialty in veterinary medicine is one that focuses specifically on animal welfare, reports DVM360.com. The American Veterinary Medical Association's recent recognition of the American College of Animal Welfare gives 23 veterinarians the right tobe certified as experts in the field. Others will be granted the status after meeting requirements set by the new group. The ACAW's mission is to advance animal welfare through education, certification and scientific investigation, and to ensure that the veterinary profession leads advances in animal welfare knowledge. The AVMA currently recognizes 22 other veterinary specialty organizations. -- Gina Spadafori

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ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet care experts headed by "Good Morning America" and "The Dr. Oz Show" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are affiliated with Vetstreet.com and also the authors of many best-selling pet care books. Dr. Becker can also be found at Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker or on Twitter at DrMartyBecker.

ROTATE A VARIETY OF TOYS FOR YOUR BIRD – AND BE PREPARED TO REPLACE THEM OFTEN

And Gina Spadafori

Parrots are incredibly intelligent, and for anyone who doubts this, we point to the late Alex, Dr. Irene Pepperberg's well-known African Grey, who showed by matching words to objects the parrots are anything but "bird brains."

And yet, we too often see these brilliant beings kept as little more than decorative objects, prized for their plumage and locked for nearly all their lives in cages that are too small, no matter how large. Is it any wonder so many pet birds die young, or rip out their own feathers in frustration?

Toys are essential to maintaining the physical and mental well-being of parrots large and small. Playthings help keep pet birds fit while fighting the boredom that can contribute to behavioral problems, such as feather-picking.

Although you can buy toys by major manufacturers from the big chain stores, it's also nice to choose from the variety of playthings lovingly made by a cottage industry of bird lovers and available from independent bird shops, through catalogs and on the Internet.

Some basic rules apply when shopping for toys, to ensure they are suitable and safe for your bird. Look for the following when choosing bird toys:

-- Materials: Toys are subject to your bird's healthy urge to destroy, which means safe components are a must. Wood, rawhide, plastic or stainless steel chain, rope, cloth and hard plastic are among the more popular materials that make up safe toys. Choose toys that break down into pieces that can't be swallowed. An exception: Toys made to hold food items, such as dried corncobs or fruit chunks. With these, eating is a large part of the fun.

-- Construction: Challenging toys, the best choice for busy birds, feature pieces combined in ways that make it hard for the birds to pull the whole product apart -- but not too hard. Indestructible toys are not appropriate for most birds, because the time and energy used to rip apart the gadget is part of the reason toys fill such a need. 

-- Size: Little toys for little birds, big toys for big birds. A big bird can catch and lose a toe in a toy made for a smaller bird, and small birds can get their heads trapped in toys made for their larger relatives.

Some birds are apprehensive of new toys. If yours is one of them, try to set the toy outside the cage (but within eye range) for a day or two, and then put it on the floor of the cage for another day or two. Once your bird starts to play with the toy, you can go ahead and attach it to the cage.

Don't overwhelm your pet with toys. Instead, keep two or three in the cage and rotate new ones in regularly. Shopping for bird toys can be fun, but the costs do add up, especially if you have one of those gleefully destructive parrots. With some creativity, you can make your money go further by complementing store-bought bird toys with alternatives.

The cardboard cores of toilet paper and paper towel rolls are perfect for shredding, especially for smaller birds. Other cheapies include ballpoint pens with the ink tube removed, pingpong balls, old plastic measuring cups and spoons, and plastic bottle tops. Toothbrushes are another bargain toy, sturdy and colorful. The hard plastic keys on a ring sold for human babies are also a budget-wise buy that birds love. (Wash in hot soap and water, rinse well and air-dry before offering such items to your bird.)

Keep your eyes and mind open for playthings your bird can enjoy -- you may surprise yourself with the possibilities!

Q&A

Preparation is key

when flying with pets

Q: Regarding your recent column on flying with pets, will you let readers know about the risk of losing a pet in the airport?

Most people don't realize that if they take a pet as carry-on baggage, they'll have to take the pet out of the carrier and hold the animal while the carrier itself goes through screening. I found this out the hard way with a cat who hates to be held!

Everyone who takes a pet aboard a plane as carry-on luggage should have a harness and leash in place to avoid having the animal take off running through the airport. -- J.P., via e-mail

A: You're absolutely right. While a small dog having a bit of a freak-out at the airport can probably be held firmly and without too much difficulty, a cat in full flight-or-fight mode can really create a dangerous scene. That's why your suggestion is important: Make sure any pet -- but especially a cat -- is equipped with a harness and leash before removing the animal from the carrier at the airport screening station.

I've flown with pets as carry-on a few times and have put larger pets in cargo a few times more -- never (knock on wood) with any problems whatsoever. I've always found airline staff to be caring, helpful and understanding of the needs and worries of pet lovers.

One myth about flying with pets that just won't go away is the assumption that pets need to be routinely tranquilized for flights. Not only is this not true, it's also dangerous. Tranquilizing limits the ability of their bodies to function normally, and they need all that ability to cope with the stress of flight.

The default mode for pet air travel should be no tranquilizers, although there are exceptions, so a pre-flight talk with the veterinarian is a must. (You'll need to be there for a pre-flight health certificate anyway.)

Talking to the airline for pet reservations and conditions is a must, as is checking en route for any pets traveling in cargo holds. With all precautions in place, air travel with pets should go smoothly -- and it usually does. -- Gina Spadafori

Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com or visit Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker.

THE BUZZ

Moving with a cat?

Limit his options

The best way to move with your cat is to confine him before and after moving day in a "safe room."

Choose a room where your cat isn't going to be disturbed, and outfit it with food and water, a litter box, a scratching post, a bed and toys.

Confining your cat not only reduces his stress, but also prevents him from slipping out, which is a danger at both the old home and the new. Your cat could easily become scared, take off and get lost, even in his familiar neighborhood, if he gets disoriented.

Your cat should be confined in his safe room the day before packing begins, moved to his new home in a carrier, and then confined again in his new safe room until the moving is over, the furniture arranged and most of the dust settled.

Trying to force a scared and stressed-out cat to do anything he doesn't want to do is hazardous to your health. After you arrive at your new home, don't pull your cat out of his carrier. Instead, put the carrier in his safe room, open the carrier door, and let him come out into the room when he wants to. After he's a little calmer, you can coax him out with some fresh food or treats if you want. But don't rush him and don't drag him out -- or you may be bitten or scratched.

When you have the rest of the house settled, open the door to the safe room and let your cat explore his new home, on his terms. -- Gina Spadafori

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet care experts headed by "Good Morning America" and "The Dr. Oz Show" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are affiliated with Vetstreet.com and also the authors of many best-selling pet care books. Dr. Becker can also be found at Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker or on Twitter at DrMartyBecker.