pets

Pick a Parrot Toy

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | September 10th, 2012

ROTATE A VARIETY OF TOYS FOR YOUR BIRD – AND BE PREPARED TO REPLACE THEM OFTEN

And Gina Spadafori

Parrots are incredibly intelligent, and for anyone who doubts this, we point to the late Alex, Dr. Irene Pepperberg's well-known African Grey, who showed by matching words to objects the parrots are anything but "bird brains."

And yet, we too often see these brilliant beings kept as little more than decorative objects, prized for their plumage and locked for nearly all their lives in cages that are too small, no matter how large. Is it any wonder so many pet birds die young, or rip out their own feathers in frustration?

Toys are essential to maintaining the physical and mental well-being of parrots large and small. Playthings help keep pet birds fit while fighting the boredom that can contribute to behavioral problems, such as feather-picking.

Although you can buy toys by major manufacturers from the big chain stores, it's also nice to choose from the variety of playthings lovingly made by a cottage industry of bird lovers and available from independent bird shops, through catalogs and on the Internet.

Some basic rules apply when shopping for toys, to ensure they are suitable and safe for your bird. Look for the following when choosing bird toys:

-- Materials: Toys are subject to your bird's healthy urge to destroy, which means safe components are a must. Wood, rawhide, plastic or stainless steel chain, rope, cloth and hard plastic are among the more popular materials that make up safe toys. Choose toys that break down into pieces that can't be swallowed. An exception: Toys made to hold food items, such as dried corncobs or fruit chunks. With these, eating is a large part of the fun.

-- Construction: Challenging toys, the best choice for busy birds, feature pieces combined in ways that make it hard for the birds to pull the whole product apart -- but not too hard. Indestructible toys are not appropriate for most birds, because the time and energy used to rip apart the gadget is part of the reason toys fill such a need. 

-- Size: Little toys for little birds, big toys for big birds. A big bird can catch and lose a toe in a toy made for a smaller bird, and small birds can get their heads trapped in toys made for their larger relatives.

Some birds are apprehensive of new toys. If yours is one of them, try to set the toy outside the cage (but within eye range) for a day or two, and then put it on the floor of the cage for another day or two. Once your bird starts to play with the toy, you can go ahead and attach it to the cage.

Don't overwhelm your pet with toys. Instead, keep two or three in the cage and rotate new ones in regularly. Shopping for bird toys can be fun, but the costs do add up, especially if you have one of those gleefully destructive parrots. With some creativity, you can make your money go further by complementing store-bought bird toys with alternatives.

The cardboard cores of toilet paper and paper towel rolls are perfect for shredding, especially for smaller birds. Other cheapies include ballpoint pens with the ink tube removed, pingpong balls, old plastic measuring cups and spoons, and plastic bottle tops. Toothbrushes are another bargain toy, sturdy and colorful. The hard plastic keys on a ring sold for human babies are also a budget-wise buy that birds love. (Wash in hot soap and water, rinse well and air-dry before offering such items to your bird.)

Keep your eyes and mind open for playthings your bird can enjoy -- you may surprise yourself with the possibilities!

Q&A

Preparation is key

when flying with pets

Q: Regarding your recent column on flying with pets, will you let readers know about the risk of losing a pet in the airport?

Most people don't realize that if they take a pet as carry-on baggage, they'll have to take the pet out of the carrier and hold the animal while the carrier itself goes through screening. I found this out the hard way with a cat who hates to be held!

Everyone who takes a pet aboard a plane as carry-on luggage should have a harness and leash in place to avoid having the animal take off running through the airport. -- J.P., via e-mail

A: You're absolutely right. While a small dog having a bit of a freak-out at the airport can probably be held firmly and without too much difficulty, a cat in full flight-or-fight mode can really create a dangerous scene. That's why your suggestion is important: Make sure any pet -- but especially a cat -- is equipped with a harness and leash before removing the animal from the carrier at the airport screening station.

I've flown with pets as carry-on a few times and have put larger pets in cargo a few times more -- never (knock on wood) with any problems whatsoever. I've always found airline staff to be caring, helpful and understanding of the needs and worries of pet lovers.

One myth about flying with pets that just won't go away is the assumption that pets need to be routinely tranquilized for flights. Not only is this not true, it's also dangerous. Tranquilizing limits the ability of their bodies to function normally, and they need all that ability to cope with the stress of flight.

The default mode for pet air travel should be no tranquilizers, although there are exceptions, so a pre-flight talk with the veterinarian is a must. (You'll need to be there for a pre-flight health certificate anyway.)

Talking to the airline for pet reservations and conditions is a must, as is checking en route for any pets traveling in cargo holds. With all precautions in place, air travel with pets should go smoothly -- and it usually does. -- Gina Spadafori

Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com or visit Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker.

THE BUZZ

Moving with a cat?

Limit his options

The best way to move with your cat is to confine him before and after moving day in a "safe room."

Choose a room where your cat isn't going to be disturbed, and outfit it with food and water, a litter box, a scratching post, a bed and toys.

Confining your cat not only reduces his stress, but also prevents him from slipping out, which is a danger at both the old home and the new. Your cat could easily become scared, take off and get lost, even in his familiar neighborhood, if he gets disoriented.

Your cat should be confined in his safe room the day before packing begins, moved to his new home in a carrier, and then confined again in his new safe room until the moving is over, the furniture arranged and most of the dust settled.

Trying to force a scared and stressed-out cat to do anything he doesn't want to do is hazardous to your health. After you arrive at your new home, don't pull your cat out of his carrier. Instead, put the carrier in his safe room, open the carrier door, and let him come out into the room when he wants to. After he's a little calmer, you can coax him out with some fresh food or treats if you want. But don't rush him and don't drag him out -- or you may be bitten or scratched.

When you have the rest of the house settled, open the door to the safe room and let your cat explore his new home, on his terms. -- Gina Spadafori

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet care experts headed by "Good Morning America" and "The Dr. Oz Show" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are affiliated with Vetstreet.com and also the authors of many best-selling pet care books. Dr. Becker can also be found at Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker or on Twitter at DrMartyBecker.

pets

Pet House Rules

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | September 3rd, 2012

IF A DOG OR CAT IS GOING TO MESS, YOU'LL FIND IT -- WITH A BARE FOOT

When I was in high school, I signed up for physics and calculus. I knew that to become a veterinarian I would have to develop a far greater grasp of science and math than the one I seemed to have been born with.

My physics teacher gave me a "C" out of mercy. My calculus teacher wasn't nearly as generous, and I spent the rest of my academic career -- high school and college -- sticking as close to the English department as I could. I abandoned all hope of veterinary medicine and settled (more or less) happily into a career as a writer specializing in pet care and veterinary medicine.

But that doesn't mean I'm incapable of making a brilliant scientific discovery.

Oh sure, maybe mine doesn't have anything to do with mass or energy. And OK, so maybe the people who hand out the Nobel Prizes won't be calling. But that doesn't mean my discovery has no significance to the lives of millions of people. Consider this: How often do you recognize the importance of, say, Einstein's work in your daily life?

Everyone who has spent more than a month with a cat or dog has stepped squarely into my discovery. In fact, stepping in it is just the way I happened upon it.

Call it Gina's Law of the Well-Placed Pet Mess. No matter how large the floor, pet-related organic matter will always be placed where a human being is most likely to plant a bare foot. Poop, pee, barf or hairball -- it doesn't matter. If it lands on the floor, chances are you'll step in it.

Keep the cleaning supplies handy, and accept it as one of the absolute laws of nature. You have no other choice.

Of course, one can't rest on one's laurels. I'd been working until recently on proving my theory that the affection level of pets is directly related to the level of contrast between the color of their fur and that of the shirt you're wearing. I thought I had it nailed when I discovered that my black sweater was irresistible to white cats. But then I noticed that my friend's golden retriever was just as eager to snuggle no matter what I was wearing, shedding her long, silky fur without regard to my reputation as a scientist.

I've now shelved the Gina's Law of Shedding in favor of a field of study that shows more promise: the apparent ability of pets to do whatever is most embarrassing to you in front of the person you'd be most mortified to have see it. Call it Gina's Law of That's Not My Pet: I Think He Belongs to the Neighbors.

When one of my dogs brought my dirty underwear out to meet a person I'd just starting seeing (in what I hoped would become a romantic way), I knew I was on to something. And then a friend called with the exciting news that her dog had managed on a recent occasion to upchuck what was clearly a feminine hygiene product in front of a visiting minister.

With news like that, can you fault me for believing that my best scientific discoveries are still in front of me? All that's left is to name the phenomenon and wait for the media to call.

Q&A

Smaller dogs need

more dental care

Q: Are you aware of any genetic problems with small dogs that cause them to have excessive plaque buildup? If so, are there any remedies? -- via email

A: As a general rule, the smaller the dog, the faster the plaque buildup. For most dogs and cats, regular dental cleanings (as often as twice a year in some cases) are as important to pets' long-term health as they are to ours. Keeping teeth in good health prevents bad breath, preserves teeth into old age, and protects their organs from the constant shower of bacteria caused by rotting teeth and gums. Over the course of a lifetime, good dental health will add significantly to your pet's quality of life and perhaps even extend his lifetime.

You should not attempt to clean your dog's teeth with a dental pick because you likely will cause more problems than you'll prevent -- damaging the surface of the tooth enamel and, in so doing, giving bacteria a nice little niche to call home. Nor should you patronize a "no-anesthesia" groomer to clean your pet's teeth, since all that does is make bad teeth look better cosmetically.

Start your pet's dental health regimen with a trip to your veterinarian, who should check your pet's mouth, teeth and gums. Then he or she can make recommendations based on what is found. For many pets, that'll mean a complete dentistry under anesthesia, and possibly some periodontal work and even the removal of broken or rotting teeth.

After the problems are treated, at-home care can keep things in good shape. Here are the basics:

-- Brush or wipe the teeth regularly. Use a toothpaste designed for dogs and cats a couple of times a week at least, although daily is better. A children's soft toothbrush works well, as does one made especially for pets. You can also use a brush that fits over your fingertip, or plain gauze wrapped around your finger. Some vets suggest that gauze may be more readily accepted by cats, especially if dipped in tuna or clam juice first.

-- Offer teeth-cleaning foods and toys. Diets designed to scrape teeth may help, but these must be used in combination with regular brushing and with toys that help wipe the teeth. Soft chewies or a rope toy are best. Avoid chews that are rock-hard or are prone to breaking into sharp pieces, as these can break teeth or slice gums. Your veterinarian can also suggest rinses that help keep the teeth and mouth healthier.

With proper home care, you'll slow the buildup of plaque and increase the time between cleanings by your veterinarian. -- Dr. Marty Becker

Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com or visit Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker.

THE BUZZ

Chinese-made treats

still killing pets

-- Chicken jerky treats made in China and sold by several companies have been implicated in pet deaths, according to the U.S. Food and Drug Administration. The FDA has been unable to identify the source of the problem, and veterinary experts have cautioned people to read labels and avoid the treats. More recently, concerns have spread as complaints about sick pets have come in to the FDA about other Chinese-made treats. More than a thousand pets have been killed by the treats, according to the FDA. Some companies have so far refused to recall the products, which remain for sale through many retailers.

-- Veterinary Pet Insurance dug through its database to come up with a list of the most unusual names for cats: Pico Del Gato, Dingleberry, Dumpster Kitty, Schnickelfritz, Koobenfarben, Sassy Pants Huska, Vincent Van, Kitty Gaga, Beefra and Mister Biggl.

-- According to LiveScience.com, dogs who are trained to help people with epilepsy are able to alert to a seizure almost an hour before it happens. These dogs join the wide-ranging ranks of dogs whose special skills help people cope with illness, including those who alert to falling blood sugar levels for diabetics. -- Gina Spadafori

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet care experts headed by "Good Morning America" and "The Dr. Oz Show" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are affiliated with Vetstreet.com and also the authors of many best-selling pet care books. Dr. Becker can also be found at Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker or on Twitter at DrMartyBecker.

pets

Play It Safe

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | August 27th, 2012

TEACH YOUR CHILDREN HOW TO ACT IF A DOG SEEMS DANGEROUS

Every fall as kids go back to school, we like to remind everyone of the importance of teaching youngsters how to be safe around dogs. And while children are 10 times more likely to be hurt in organized sports than be bitten by a dog, the risks of the latter can and should be minimized.

The experts say the signs are usually there long before a dog attacks. The dog is typically young, male and unneutered. He is usually unsocialized -- a backyard dog with little to no interaction with the family. He is often inadvertently conditioned to be vicious by being kept full-time on a chain or in a small kennel run. While people are wary -- unfairly so, in many cases -- of breeds with bad reputations, it's important to remember that all breeds and mixes can and do bite.

That's why you have to make sure your children know how to behave around dogs to protect themselves. Here's what everyone should know, and what parents need to teach their children:

-- Never approach a loose dog, even if he seems friendly. Dogs who are confined in yards, and especially those dogs on chains, should also be avoided. Many are very serious about protecting their turf. If the dog is with his owner, children should always ask permission before petting him and then begin by offering him the back of a hand for a sniff. Further, they should pat the dog on the neck or chest. The dog may interpret a pat on the head as a challenging gesture. Teach your children to avoid fast or jerky movements around dogs, since these may trigger predatory behavior.

-- "Be a tree" when a dog approaches, standing straight with feet together, fists under the neck and elbows into the chest. Teach your children to make no eye contact, since some dogs view eye contact as a challenge. Running is a normal response to danger, but it's the worst possible thing to do around a dog, because it triggers the animal's instinct to chase and bite. Many dogs will just sniff and leave. Teach your children to stay still until the animal walks away, and then back away slowly out of the area.

-- "Feed" the dog a jacket or backpack if attacked, or use a bike to block the dog. These strategies may keep an attacking dog's teeth from connecting with flesh.

-- Act like a log if knocked down: face down, legs together, curled into a ball with fists covering the back of the neck and forearms over the ears. This position protects vital areas and can keep an attack from turning fatal. Role-play these lessons with your child until they are ingrained. They may save your child's life.

Discuss safe behavior with your children and role-play how to approach dogs, when not to approach, and what to do if confronted or attacked. You don't need to scare your children, but you do need to make sure they're ready, just in case. And going over the "what-ifs" isn't a bad idea for you as well, especially if you enjoy outdoor activities such as jogging or biking.

What if the dog you're worried about is in your own home? Ask your veterinarian for a referral to a veterinary behaviorist sooner rather than later. Aggression doesn't go away on its own: Someone will get hurt, and your dog will likely end up euthanized as a result. Don't take a chance: Get help before someone gets hurt.

Q&A

To stop begging,

stop giving in

Q: How can I get my dog to stop begging? -- via Facebook

A: If you never want your dog to stick her nose in your plate, put her head on your knee or paw at your arm, then don't ever reward her with food when she does.

What if it's too late for that? With patience and consistency, you can change your dog's behavior by never rewarding the begging again. When your dog finally becomes convinced that she will never again see another piece of food delivered from off your plate, she'll stop asking. You can also have her practice a behavior that's incompatible with having her nose on your knee -- a down-stay on the other side of the room while you're eating.

But be warned: If you're inconsistent, you'll actually make the problem worse. Occasionally rewarding a behavior is called random reinforcement, and it's a powerful motivator. In fact, it's what keeps the gambling industry afloat. Even though gamblers know the house always wins, they keep pulling the handle on those slot machines because they get a little back now and then, and because sometimes they hit the jackpot. Dog trainers use these principles to instill good behaviors in dogs, but many pet lovers inadvertently use them to teach a dog bad habits -- like begging.

Preventing a problem is always easier than fixing one. When you get a dog, think about the house rules you want, and insist on them from day one. If you have a beggar on your hands, realize the fault is yours -- and be determined to be consistent in turning the situation around. -- Gina Spadafori

Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com or visit Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker.

THE BUZZ

Talking animals

are YouTube hit

-- The creator of "The Ultimate Dog Tease," the second most-popular video on YouTube last year, has produced a new spot of talking animals for the American Pet Products Assoc.'s Pets Add Life Project. Andrew Grantham's spot is the latest in the popular series, meant to promote and celebrate pets. The Pets Add Life videos are at youtube.com/petsaddlife.

-- With its Ol' Roy long the dominant player in the low-end segment of the pet-food market, Wal-Mart is upping the ante with the introduction of a premium food called Pure Balance. Industry analysts told DVM360.com that the move puts the big-box retailer in a position to challenge PetSmart and Petco for an even bigger share of the $21 billion spent annually on pet food in the United States. Wal-Mart previously moved to draw pet lovers in with the launch of PetArmor, a generic version of the blockbuster flea-and-tick product Frontline.

-- Citing slow donations because of the economy, the American Animal Hospital Association has shut down its Helping Pets fund. The group provided grants to help people struggling to pay veterinary bills for sick or injured pets. The VIN News Service reports that the fund paid $1 million to help more than 4,000 pets over the seven years since its founding.

-- Gina Spadafori

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet care experts headed by "Good Morning America" and "The Dr. Oz Show" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are affiliated with Vetstreet.com and also the authors of many best-selling pet care books. Dr. Becker can also be found at Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker or on Twitter at DrMartyBecker.

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