DON'T ASSUME DOGS KNOW THE RULES FOR WATER SAFETY

Warm weather came early this year to much of the country, and that means lakes and rivers -- and even swimming pools -- are already being enjoyed by dogs who love to swim. But every spring, as my field-bred retrievers (who happily swim year-round) greet new dogs at the river's edge, I see dogs at risk of drowning.

Most times, some caution on the part of their owners would prevent any problems. The keys to water safety for dogs: prevention, preparedness and awareness.

Prevention

No dog should be given unsupervised access to a backyard pool or a neighborhood pond or creek. Swimming pools are best fenced-off for safety. And if that's not possible, they should be equipped with alarms that sound when the surface of the water is broken by a child or pet falling in. Escape ramps are a great idea, but it's better to prevent pets from getting in unsupervised in the first place.

Prevention also includes teaching your pet what to do when he's in the pool. Dogs don't understand the idea that the steps are on one side only, and they may tire and drown trying to crawl out the other side. If your pet likes to swim, work with him in the pool to help him learn where the steps are, so he can get out easily. Tip: Put contrasting paint or tape on the fence behind the steps to give your dog a visual clue he can count on.

Finally, obedience training is extremely important. Your dog should come when called, even while swimming, so you can call him back before he heads into deeper water or stronger currents. Emergency shortcut: Always carry extra retrieving toys. A dog who's heading out into a dangerous area after a ball or stick can often be lured back to shore with a second item thrown closer in. It's no substitute for training, but it could save your dog's life.

Preparedness

Before letting your dog swim in any natural surroundings, survey the area for safety. Rivers and oceans can change frequently, and an area that was safe for swimming one visit can be treacherous the next. Consider currents, tides, underwater hazards and even the condition of the water. In the late summer, algae scum on the top of standing water can be toxic, producing substances that can kill a pet who swallows the tainted water. When in doubt, no swimming. Better safe than sorry.

One of the best things you can do is to take courses in first aid and CPR for your pets. Many local Red Cross chapters offer these classes, and some veterinarians may also teach them in your community. A dog who's pulled out near death from drowning may be saved by your prompt actions -- if you know what to do.

If your dog isn't much of a swimmer, or is older or debilitated, get him a personal flotation device. These are especially great for family boating trips because most have sturdy handles for rescue if a pet goes overboard.

Awareness

Be aware of your dog's condition as he plays. Remember that even swimming dogs can get hot, so bring fresh water and offer it constantly. When your dog is tiring, be sure to call it a day. A tired dog is a good dog, but an exhausted dog is in danger of drowning.

Be particularly careful of young and old dogs. Both can get themselves into more trouble than a healthy adult dog with lots of swimming experience. Young dogs can panic in the water, and old dogs may not realize they aren't as strong as they used to be. Keep them close to shore, and keep swimming sessions short.

Swimming is great exercise and great fun for all, and with these few simple precautions you can keep the cool times coming, with safety in mind.

Q&A

Kiddie pools perfect

for cooling hot dogs

Q: My Lab mix loves to wallow in her kiddie pool. Do I need to treat the water for her to be safe if she drinks any? -- H.R., via Facebook

A: No, it's better if you don't. Just keep the pool clean and the water fresh. And always supervise the pool's use to prevent any accidents.

Small pools made of hard plastic are perfect for dogs of all sizes, providing a tummy-cooling wallow for an overheated retriever or a safe way to wade for a swim-challenged pug.

Kept clean and stored in a covered spot for winter, a kiddie pool will last for many seasons. Be sure to choose the hard-plastic variety; the inflatable kind doesn't hold up well to dog claws.

You'll find the hard plastic pools will last much longer if you empty them and store out of the sun. While they're not that expensive to replace, why spend money you don't have to? With sensible, minimal care, I've had pools last five years before the plastic cracked. If you empty the pool between uses and store, you won't have to worry about your dog drinking anything nasty from the pool. It doesn't hurt to wipe the inside with a brush or sponge before rinsing clean.

Drinking the water isn't the only problem with a kiddie pool: Standing water is a perfect breeding ground for mosquitoes and toxic algae. Rinse clean after every use and refill with fresh water every time and the pool's water will be safe for your dog, and inhospitable to unwanted bugs and toxic scum. -- Gina Spadafori

Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.

THE BUZZ

Spay-neuter programs

target the underserved

-- The American Veterinary Medical Association estimates a population of more than 150 million cats and dogs in the United States. Most studies note that around eight out of 10 of these pets are altered.

The success of spay-neuter programs falls short in two areas: feral cats and the kind of large, tough-looking dogs favored by some tough-looking young men. Animal advocacy and veterinary groups have been tailoring programs to address these populations, offering free spays and even paying some owners or caretakers for bringing an animal in for surgery.

-- Dogs are not good at keeping themselves cool, and they rely on us to keep them out of trouble. Limit exercise to the coolest part of the day, no matter how happy your dog is to participate when it's warm. Even in the coolest part of the day, watch for signs of trouble: Glassy eyes and frantic panting indicate a dog who needs help. Get to a veterinarian, immediately.

Older, obese or short-nosed dogs are less heat-tolerant, and all dogs need constant access to shade and an endless supply of cool, clean water.

-- Senior dog diets are popular, with 43 percent of Americans claiming they have fed their dogs age-oriented food. However, only one-third of those pet owners have consulted with a veterinarian about which senior diet their aging pooches should eat.

The needs of senior dogs vary greatly, with some requiring a greater percentage of protein in their food, and others requiring more carbohydrates. -- Mikkel Becker and Dr. Marty Becker

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet care experts headed by "Good Morning America" and "The Dr. Oz Show" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are affiliated with Vetstreet.com and also the authors of many best-selling pet care books. Dr. Becker can also be found at Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker or on Twitter at DrMartyBecker.

GIVING FLUIDS AT HOME KEEPS MANY PETS COMFORTABLE

Last year, my elderly Sheltie, Drew, was diagnosed with canine kidney disease. Medications didn't agree with him, his appetite for a therapeutic diet (or indeed any food at all) was nonexistent, and I was sent home with supplies for giving him subcutaneous fluids at home to see if he could be saved.

I'm not particularly squeamish about needles or, indeed, most aspects of pet care, so I wasn't the least bit troubled about pushing fluids under my dog's skin every morning for the rest of his life. I did suspect, however, that the rest of his life wouldn't be that long a time period.

Turns out, I sold both Drew and subcutaneous fluid therapy short.

Drew turned 15 in December, bounced back last month from a mild stroke, and more recently spent an entire day bouncing happily around dog-friendly wineries in Napa Valley. All because of an inexpensive, five-minute procedure I've taken to calling "the daily re-Drewbinating."

His appetite came back enough that he actually put on weight. And no one can believe he's an old dog, much less one who's basically a hospice case.

Drew's success is not even that remarkable. My veterinarian has other patients who've done well for years on regular subcutaneous therapy at home, either in conjunction with medication and special diets or, as in Drew's case, simply with better hydration.

Is subcutaneous fluid therapy at home right for you and your sick pet? Could be!

Renal disease is not uncommon in older pets. The kidneys are the true superstar organs of the body, with many jobs to do, including filtering waste and extra water from the blood and sending it out of the body as urine. When kidneys start failing, their function can be aided with proper hydration, and that's where subcutaneous fluids come in.

Giving thirsty kidneys a boost can help keep them on the job, allowing them to continue their vital work. By adding fluids at home, these pets can keep their kidneys happy. Fluids in, toxins out.

If your veterinarian thinks home fluid therapy will help your pet's kidneys, you'll be provided with fluids, IV lines and needles, along with the instruction you need. After you've set up the IV bag (I hang it from my dining room chandelier) and readied the line and a new needle, put your pet on a soft blanket or towel on your lap or a table.

Inserting the needle is pretty easy: You pull up skin gently over the shoulders to make a "tent," push the needle swiftly in at the base and unclip the line to let the fluids in, reversing the process when the prescribed amount of fluids has made a bubble that will slowly be absorbed. (The website DVM360.com has produced a wonderful instructional video -- tinyurl.com/SubQpets -- to help walk you through the process if you need reminders after your lesson at your veterinarian's.)

Drew is large enough to get half of a one-liter bag of fluids each day. My veterinarian helped me find the best places to buy fluids and supplies in bulk to lower my costs (about $30 a month for everything). I also invested in a pressure cuff ($20) for the fluid bag to make everything go more quickly. The morning drill is so routine now that half the time, Drew falls asleep before we're done.

When I need to travel, I use a pet-sitting company that hires veterinary technicians to handle this daily task.

While I have no idea how long it will be before Drew's kidneys give out completely, I am grateful for the chance to have more quality time with a very special pet. And the fact that it's easy and inexpensive? Icing on the cake.

Q&A

Put string toys

away after play

Q: I read an article that strings are dangerous for cats, but toys with string are all over the pet store. Are they safe or not? -- H.R., via Facebook

A: Kittens and cats love playing with string, as well as ribbon and anything that twists and dances. They like to stalk, to pounce, to flip their slender prey into the air, and to start stalking again. That's all good clean fun, but there's always a chance that your cat won't stop with play and will decide to eat his plaything. And that's where the fun stops, because any sort of string can wreak havoc in your cat's intestines, causing a problem that may need to be surgically treated.

That's why string toys such as the popular "cat fishing poles" or other kitty lures are meant for interactive use only. Once you're done playing the game with your cat or kitten, put the toy securely out of reach behind a cupboard or closet door.

Toys probably aren't even the biggest risk in most homes. If you knit or sew, put your supplies securely away after you're done with them, and if you're opening or wrapping packages, clean up after you're done. Packing material such as foam "peanuts" can be a health hazard for your pet, too.

Even if your pet's not really the playful type, she may find one kind of string irresistible: juice-soaked string from a roast or turkey. Dispose of these tempting dangers carefully, putting them in a container your cat can't get into. -- Dr. Marty Becker

Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.

THE BUZZ

New guidelines address

overvaccination of pets

-- Veterinarians used to think vaccines were so safe that it was better to vaccinate whenever there was any doubt about a pet's vaccine status. But research has shown that in some pets, the negative reaction to a vaccine isn't a day of just not feeling right: In a small but significant number of cats, deadly cancer was the result. New recommendations by veterinary authorities are a series of vaccinations to initiate disease resistance in kittens and puppies, followed by fewer "core" vaccines at longer intervals for adult dogs and cats.

-- White-coated and thin-coated dogs are vulnerable to skin cancer, and veterinary dermatologists have long recommended sunblock for these pets. Children's waterproof sunblock can be used, and there are even products that are made specifically for pets.

-- Some 80 to 90 percent of the drugs used in veterinary medicine come from human medicine. This so-called "off-label" use of human drugs allows veterinarians to treat medical conditions (and species) that might not be priorities for big drug companies when it comes to developing and selling medications. The reasons for prescribing the medication may not be the same in people and in pets, however. Veterinarians have used Viagra for canine heart problems, for example. More routinely (and less surprisingly) prescribed are "human" antibiotics, anti-anxiety medications and many other drugs that pretty much treat the same issues both in people and in pets.

-- Mikkel Becker and Dr. Marty Becker

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet care experts headed by "Good Morning America" and "The Dr. Oz Show" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are affiliated with Vetstreet.com and also the authors of many best-selling pet care books. Dr. Becker can also be found at Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker or on Twitter at DrMartyBecker.

DECLAWING NOT NECESSARY TO RESOLVE PROBLEM SCRATCHING

I have to be honest: I don't like the idea of declawing cats. I understand why people choose to have it done, and I understand that in some cases it's a cat's only hope for staying in a good home. But I have never considered declawing for my own cat, and I cannot see it as anything but a last-chance effort after all other options have been tried.

It's not just about the surgery, although the cutting off of toes at the last joint is cringe-inducing, at least to me. After all, we long ago decided it's a good idea to cut open pets for the greater good of population control by spaying and neutering -- a good decision, but not a pain-free one for any individual animal.

If you absolutely, positively have no tolerance for scratching, please adopt a cat who has already been declawed rather than take home a kitten and have him declawed. If you already have a cat who's driving you crazy by clawing your couch, try the "carrot-and-stick" approach to change the behavior to one you can live with.

The "carrot": Offer your cat alternative places to scratch.

The "stick": Make your furniture unattractive to a clawing cat.

The best investment you can make for your pet's enjoyment -- and your furniture's preservation -- is a cat tree with a high perch for your pet to look down on the family. (Cats like being above it all!) Sisal, a natural ropelike fiber, is a good covering for cat trees, as is carpet with loops that aren't too shaggy. If you're even a little bit handy, you can make your own cat tree by using scrap lumber, sisal or carpet remnants.

You can make a cat tree even more appealing by playing games with your cat on it, and by petting and praising him for scratching there.

Cat trees aren't the only options. Add other approved places for your cat to scratch, such as vertical or horizontal posts, scratching trays filled with corrugated cardboard or scratching pads hung from doorknobs. Experiment to see what your cat likes best.

Once you have approved scratching areas in place, make the places your cat shouldn't be clawing unattractive by putting double-sided patches (such as Sticky Paws) or tape on the furniture. If the furniture fabric is too delicate, put the double-sided material on a piece of cardboard that wraps around the corner of the furniture. Cats hate to touch sticky surfaces, so anything mounted sticky-side out will discourage scratching.

Start with your scratching alternative near the problem area. Your cat may shift his attention away from your furniture to the scratching post or tree. Praise and treat for good behavior!

Once your cat understands what the scratching post is for, you can slowly move it to the part of the room where you'd like it. Leave the sticky deterrent on the furniture during the retraining, and be patient.

Declawing shouldn't be the first strategy for solving a scratching problem. Give your cat a chance to learn and to follow the rules. I bet you'll be surprised at how well it works out.

Q&A

Know an emergency

to save pet, money

Q: We've made a couple of ER runs with our dog for things that could have waited until morning. I sincerely believe I'd rather be wrong than sorry, and would always go if in doubt, but are there any guidelines you can offer? -- F.T., via Facebook

A: You should always call if you're not sure, but some situations do require urgent attention. Here are some signs that should have you heading for your veterinarian's or the emergency clinic:

-- Seizure, fainting or collapse.

-- Eye injury, no matter how mild.

-- Vomiting or diarrhea -- anything more than two or three times within an hour or so.

-- Allergic reactions, such as swelling around the face or hives, which are most easily seen on the belly.

-- Any suspected poisoning, including antifreeze, rodent or snail bait or human medication. Cats are especially sensitive to insecticides (such as flea-control medication for dogs) or any petroleum-based product.

-- Snake or venomous spider bites.

-- Thermal stress -- from being either too cold or too hot -- even if the pet seems to have recovered. (The internal story could be quite different.)

-- Any wound or laceration that's open and bleeding, or any animal bite.

-- Trauma, such as being hit by a car, even if the pet seems fine. (Again, the situation could be quite different on the inside.)

-- Any respiratory problem: chronic coughing, trouble breathing or near drowning.

-- Straining to urinate or defecate.

It's essential to know where to go before you need after-hours veterinary care for your pet. Talk to your veterinarian now about after-hours arrangements. Some veterinarians remain on call while others refer to emergency-care clinics. If your veterinarian refers you elsewhere, be sure you have the phone number of the ER clinic handy, and know how to get there. -- Dr. Marty Becker

Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.

THE BUZZ

No. 1 dog? It's

the Lab ... maybe

-- Labrador retrievers again were No. 1 on the American Kennel Club's list of most-popular breeds. But with AKC registrations in sharp decline and the majority of dogs never recorded by the organization, it's more likely that another breed is America's true No. 1. Beloved by many, feared by an equal number and as misunderstood as any dog ever, the breeds generically grouped under the name "pit bull" are thought by many to be the most common dog in the country. Except, of course, in cities where owning one is illegal.

-- Among the many things we have in common with dogs, add one more: When they're tired, dogs make bad decisions, too. That's the indication from studies in France, where dogs were asked to focus on a sit-stay for 10 minutes, then put to problem-solving tasks. People are more likely to behave impulsively when exhausted, researchers said, citing tendencies to fight. Dogs were the same, showing an inclination when tired to approach an aggressive dog in a cage. Dogs who waited more casually without the work of holding a stay were less tired, and more likely to make better decisions. One takeaway for dog owners, said researchers, is that dogs who are exhausted from a day with the kids may be more likely to snap than a pet whose owners recognize the animal's need for a break. -- Gina Spadafori

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet care experts headed by "Good Morning America" and "The Dr. Oz Show" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are affiliated with Vetstreet.com and also the authors of many best-selling pet care books. Dr. Becker can also be found at Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker or on Twitter at DrMartyBecker.