Let me tell you an insider secret from the world of veterinary medicine. There are certain people we can't wait to see come in with their pets. While as health professionals we certainly don't offer them better medical care than people we don't like as much, I do admit that these folks are shown the red carpet.

What makes these clients VIPs, how do you become one, and what will you receive in return for your efforts? The more items you tick off this list, the higher your ranking as a veterinary VIP:

-- You're a tiny bit early for your appointment.

-- You treat the entire staff with respect, warmth and good humor.

-- You come armed with a full history of your pet's current medical problem, the more detailed the better -- e.g., vomited three times yesterday; it was slimy, yellow and contained bits of cardboard packaging.

-- You've trained your pet to welcome, not fear, a veterinary visit, and you've gone through gentling techniques with your pet, so we can easily examine everything.

-- You accept our recommendations after an honest, open discussion.

-- You pay your bills.

-- If we exceed your expectations, you recommend us to others with enthusiasm and frequency.

-- On occasion, for any or no reason, you bring us a plate of brownies or cookies to feed a tired crew.

In return you get:

-- Staffers who fight to take your call and veterinarians who fight to keep you as their client.

-- A veterinary team that lights up even brighter when you walk through the door.

-- Somehow we find a spot on an overbooked schedule for you or find a place to board your pet over a holiday, even though we've been booked full for months.

-- We don't watch the clock as closely when it's your turn in the exam room.

-- Perhaps most important, you can call us after hours for help (VIPs often have their veterinarian's personal cell number!), and we'll either pick up the phone to talk you through it, race to the practice to meet you, or refer you to someone else and tell them to take extra-special care of you.

Little things mean a lot, and they all add up. With respect and a positive attitude on both sides, your relationship with your veterinarian will mean the best experience possible for all.

Video bonus: Watch Pet Connection's Mikkel Becker teach a dog how to sit for the food dish (vetstreet.com/teach-your-dog-to-wait-for-the-food-bowl).

Q&A

Hide the trash

to protect pet

Q: My son brought his dog home for Christmas, and things went pretty well. The only exception: The dog wouldn't stay out of the kitchen trash bin. My son says it's a problem at home, too. Punishment hasn't helped. What will? -- via email

A: Pets who rummage in bathroom or kitchen wastebaskets are engaging in a habit that's very rewarding, which makes the behavior more difficult to change. After all, the goodies from the kitchen trash (food!) and bathroom trash ("used" paper products) are just about as appealing as can be imagined to a foraging pet.

But aside from the annoyance of cleaning up after garbage raids, this habit can have serious health implications. The cat who ingests string from a roast or ribbon from gift wrapping may need surgery to remove the item. And dogs can end up with blockages that also need to be surgically removed, or with deadly bouts of pancreatitis or peritonitis. And even if the worst never happens, you'll bound to be dealing with the extremely nasty after-effects of a garbage run -- vomiting and diarrhea.

So, yes, this is one habit that needs to be broken.

While you can booby-trap garbage cans -- for example, by putting a pyramid of empty soda cans with pennies in them -- it's really more effective to retrain yourself instead. Put garbage cans behind closed doors: under the sink in the bathroom, and behind a pantry door in the kitchen.

What about lidded cans? I've used a pair of them (one for recycling, one for garbage) in my kitchen for years with great success. That is, until one day my youngest dog stepped on the pedal, possibly by accident, and the resulting "light bulb moment" meant lidded cans were no longer safe! -- Gina Spadafori

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

THE BUZZ

Too few vets choose

to treat large animals

-- The continued boom in pet ownership is having ill effects down on the farm, as veterinarians are increasingly drawn to practices that care for dogs and cats. Only 10 percent of students entering U.S. veterinary schools pursue large-animal practice, says the American Veterinary Medical Association. Treating pets generally means better working conditions, shorter commutes and fewer on-call nights. Fewer large-animal veterinarians is seen as a concern not only for the animals who need care, but also for issues of public health, since veterinarians help to keep the food supply safer. 

-- Cats are notorious for not drinking enough water, and their near-chronic state of dehydration contributes to kidney and bladder problems. Getting cats to drink more can be a key to better health, but you may not need to offer purified water (as is sometimes suggested) to do so. A clinician's brief put out by the North American Veterinary Conference suggests that cats like tap water just fine, in fact, choosing it over purified water in a small study.

-- Parrots are attracted to the sound of their own voice, or at least one similar. A study found that female budgerigars prefer mates who sound like themselves. Although the parrots have an ability to imitate other voices, the study shows that female parrots are most attracted to the male if he naturally sounds like her at their first meeting, before any imitation is done. The findings also highlighted the greater help males will give to nesting females if her sound is similar to his. -- Mikkel Becker and Dr. Marty Becker

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet care experts headed by "Good Morning America" and "The Dr. Oz Show" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are affiliated with Vetstreet.com and also the authors of many best-selling pet care books. Dr. Becker can also be found at Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker or on Twitter at DrMartyBecker.

Few things make the winter seem longer than sharing a home with a dog who never really got the concept of house-training. But don't blame the dog: Most can indeed be completely house-trained if you work with them and be consistent and patient.

The first step? Quit making excuses. No dog is "partially" house-trained: He either is or he isn't. If you have a dog who is "sometimes" reliable, what you really have is a dog who doesn't understand what's required of him, probably because no one taught him properly in the first place. That means going back to the beginning to train for total understanding. Shortcuts and punishment aren't fair, and they won't work.

Before you start training, though, you must be sure that what you really have is a behavior problem and not a physical problem. This is especially true with a dog who has been reliable in the home before. Your dog needs a comprehensive veterinary checkup to rule out health problems that make good house-manners difficult or even impossible. If your pet has such a problem, it will need to be fully resolved before training begins.

House-training an adult dog uses the same principles as house-training a puppy, except you have to be even more diligent because you need to do some untraining, too. And a lot of cleaning: You must thoroughly clean any soiled area with enzymatic cleaner (available through pet-supply outlets) to eliminate the smell that invites repeat business. Again, no shortcuts: If your home has served as your pet's potty, you may even need to remove carpets and padding because even if you can't smell old urine, your dog likely can.

You'll need to teach your dog what's right before you can correct him for what's wrong. To do this, spend a couple of weeks ensuring that he has nothing but successes by never giving him the opportunity to make a mistake.

Here's how:

-- Leash him to you in the house so you can monitor his every move during his training period. If he starts to mess, tell him "no," take him outside, and give him a command for going (I use "hurry up" with my dogs). Then praise him for doing right, so that he starts to understand what you want.

-- Put him in a crate whenever he's not on leash with you. It's not unfair during training to leave him in a crate for four or five hours at a stretch -- assuming, of course, that he's getting regular daily exercise.

-- Take him outside first thing in the morning, as soon as you get home from work and just before you go to bed (when you put him in his crate for the night). Always remember to give your "go" command, and praise him when he does as you wish. I find that people never seem shy about punishing their dogs, but too often forget to praise them -- they take it for granted the dog should do the right thing. Never, ever forget the praise!

If you've been consistent, your dog will likely get a good idea of what's expected of him within a couple of weeks, and you can start to give him a little freedom. However, don't let him have the run of the house yet. Keep his area small and let him earn the house, room by room, as he proves his understanding of the house rules.

Accidents happen. If you catch him in the act, tell him "no," take him outside, and give him the chance to set things right. Give your "go" command and praise him if he does. Clean up the mess inside promptly and thoroughly, so he won't feel inclined to refresh his smell there. Don't punish him for any messes you find after the fact.

If you aren't catching him, you're not keeping close enough tabs on him. Go back to the crate and leash, and start over.

If you continue to have problems, ask your veterinarian for a referral to a veterinary behaviorist. One-on-one assistance can pinpoint the problems in your training regimen and get you both on the right track.

Video bonus: Watch Pet Connection's Dr. Marty Becker explain how to reduce your dog's shedding (vetstreet.com/reduce-pet-hair-in-your-home).

Q&A

Good groomers

not optional

Q: I've adopted a poodle mix. He came clipped from the shelter, but my follow-ups with the scissors aren't looking good, and he's starting to hate me for them. What should I do? -- via email

A. For dogs such as poodles, bichons and many terriers, finding a good groomer is almost a necessity, since the maintenance involved with the coats of these breeds and their mixes is beyond the ability or interest of most pet lovers.

For many other dogs, such as collies, spaniels and the like, regular attention from a professional groomer can make at-home coat maintenance such as combing and brushing more manageable, and can keep dogs looking and smelling better.

Start your groomer search by asking friends, neighbors and co-workers for recommendations. Your dog's veterinarian may also be able to refer you to one.

A groomer should need only two to four hours for a routine wash and clip, unless your dog is matted and tangled. There's no reason for your dog to hang out all day when he's not being worked on.

Don't wait so long between appointments that your dog is full of mats and then expect the groomer to be able to work them out. Listen to your groomer: If she says clipping the coat away is the best way to go, you're better off following her advice than subjecting your dog to hours of fur-pulling.

Make sure, too, that the groomer is clear on what you expect your dog to look like when she's done if clipping is involved. And if you don't want bows, nail polish and perfume, don't forget to speak up beforehand. -- Dr. Marty Becker

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

THE BUZZ

Economy pushing

pets into shelters

-- Why do people drop off their dogs in shelters or, even sadder, leave them in the streets to fend for themselves? The housing crisis and the rough economy are adding to the top three reasons why dogs end up homeless: moving, landlord issues and the cost of pet maintenance. Other factors include (in order): no time for a pet, no room, too many pets, pet illness, personal problem and biting. For cats, the economic factors haven't hit as hard, with "too many pets" and "allergies" as the top two reasons for giving up a cat, and "moving" at No. 3. The others, in order: cost of pet maintenance, landlord issues, no homes for littermates, house-soiling, personal problems, no room, doesn't get along.

-- Catnip (Nepeta cataria) makes some cats very happy, but doesn't do a thing for others. Kittens under the age of 3 months do not react to catnip, and not all cats are genetically programmed to react to catnip -- the split is about 50-50. Catnip is a harmless pleasure for those cats who enjoy it.

-- Everyone needs a vacation, even Britain's royal horses, who are given a three-week vacation every year. They go to the beach, where they get to gallop freely on the sandy shores and swim in the ocean.

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet care experts headed by "Good Morning America" and "The Dr. Oz Show" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are affiliated with Vetstreet.com and also the authors of many best-selling pet care books. Dr. Becker can also be found at Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker or on Twitter at DrMartyBecker.

It's a New Year's tradition around my home, one that has outlived three generations of pets but still works to help ensure the safety of the animals I live with now.

No, not resolutions, although I make those, too -- vowing, among other things, to exercise the dogs more, take more time for their training and do more for animals who are not as lucky as mine are.

The tradition I'm talking about is far easier to accomplish. I call the pets over and check their necks.

I always do my "neck checks" around the first of the year. It's easy to remember that way, especially for me, a person who has a hard time remembering much of anything when it comes to appointments: heartworm and flea medications on the first of the month, neck checks the first of the year, annual exams on each pet's birthday. (Any variation and I'm hopelessly lost!)

The neck check is easy, taking a few minutes to look for wear and fit on the collars, and legibility on the tags.

Consider the collar first. A properly fitted collar is important, but so is the right type. For dogs, a buckled or snap-together collar made of leather or nylon webbing is the best choice, and the proper fit is comfortably close but not too snug. Make sure your dog's not wearing a "choke" or prong collar for everyday use. These pose a potentially deadly hazard if left on an unsupervised dog.

When it comes to cat collars, some people fear their pet will get snagged while roaming and die. Other people argue that their cats stay indoors and so never need a collar. But if your pet has ever slipped out, or might, you ought to reconsider a collar and tag. As for cats being caught by their collars, this is resolved by the simple piece of elastic in most cat collars that enables the pet to slip free of the collar in a pinch.

If you have the right kind of collar on your pet, look at the holes and the fasteners. The collar is weakest at these spots, so if you see signs of excessive wear or strain, you'll need to replace the collar soon.

As for those tags, they need checking, too. A license is great, but since many lost pets are picked up by people in the neighborhood, it's a good idea to supplement the license with an ID tag that has a couple of phone numbers -- your home, mobile and the number of a friend or relative. Check to make sure the information is current and legible, and if not, order a new tag. I never put the pet's name or my address on the tags. Instead, my pets' tags say "REWARD!" with a collection of phone numbers. I want to get the point across that I want my pets back quickly.

Don't delay in fixing any problems you find with your pet's neck check. Issues with collars and tags are easy to fix, and these items are the cheapest insurance you can buy against loss or accidents. And if your pet isn't microchipped, add that to your to-do list. Animals given up as lost forever have been reunited with their families because of this technology.

Video bonus: Watch Pet Connection's Dr. Marty Becker and his daughter, dog-trainer Mikkel Becker, discuss the best -- and worst -- choices for collars on Vetstreet.com (vetstreet.com/learn/choosing-the-right-collar-for-your-pet).

Q&A

Cats need vets

for pain help

Q: Is aspirin safe for cats? -- via email

A: It's most definitely not OK and, in fact, I don't recommend it even for dogs anymore, based on research findings that have linked aspirin use in dogs to gastric ulcers. But though the use of aspirin in dogs has long been common practice -- even if that may be changing -- the use of aspirin in cats has never been recommended.

Cats are very sensitive to pain medications, and that's why veterinarians have long been reluctant to wade into these murky waters, even when faced with cats in chronic pain. With the increase in the keeping of indoor cats, however, many of these pets are living longer, healthier lives -- or they would be if the constant pain of arthritis did not decrease their quality of life. The management of that pain is extremely important, especially in older cats.

But it's not just older cats who benefit. Treating pain doesn't just make the hurting stop: It also promotes healthy healing. Untreated pain slows healing time, interferes with sleep and depresses the immune system. The treatment of pain improves respiration, shortens postsurgical hospitalization and improves mobility.

Can you see why I'm a strong advocate for modern pain management for our pets? Despite the benefits, though, you should never -- let me emphasize that -- (BEGIN ITAL)NEVER(END ITAL) give pain medication to your cat without your veterinarian's guidance. If your veterinarian is reluctant to provide medication and advice on pain control, push for a consultation with a specialist to design a safe, individualized pain-management program for your pet. Veterinary specialists in oncology, surgery and anesthesia are usually most familiar with the wide variety of pain medications available today, as well as their safest use. -- Dr. Marty Becker

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

THE BUZZ

Do your homework

before donating

Considering end-of-year donations to charities? Don't forget organizations that help animals.

You don't have to give money to help, though. Shelters can often use items you might be throwing away, such as old newspapers or frayed towels. You might also consider buying large bags of pet food or cat litter and donating those, not only to shelters but also to community food pantries.

What if you do have a little cash to spare? Make sure you agree with the work and the views of any organization that wants your money. And consider this: Groups that don't have the money for direct-mail fundraising campaigns or TV advertising could probably use your donation more than the ones that spend big bucks to get your cash.

In addition to your community's shelter and rescue groups, remember that other organizations could use some support. Some ideas:

-- Health research: The Winn Feline Foundation has funded some of the most important research to advance the health of cats, with results that have saved countless lives. On the dog side, the AKC Health Foundation gives grants for research that's both general and breed-specific.

-- Veterinary schools: Your first thought may be "scholarships" -- and yes, that's one of the many ways a contribution to your nearest school or college of veterinary medicine can help -- but donations can also help pets more directly, and are always needed.

-- Fix-it funds: The American Animal Hospital Association's Helping Pets Fund works through veterinarians to help pets whose owners can't afford care.

-- Therapy animals: Animals help people in more ways than I have room to list here. From programs where dogs help teach children to read to those helping injured veterans get back on their feet by getting on a horse, animal-assisted therapy is always worth supporting. -- Dr. Marty Becker

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" and "The Dr. Oz Show" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are affiliated with Vetsteet.com and also the authors of many best-selling pet-care books. Dr. Becker can also be found at Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker or on Twitter at DrMartyBecker.