Few things make the winter seem longer than sharing a home with a dog who never really got the concept of house-training. But don't blame the dog: Most can indeed be completely house-trained if you work with them and be consistent and patient.

The first step? Quit making excuses. No dog is "partially" house-trained: He either is or he isn't. If you have a dog who is "sometimes" reliable, what you really have is a dog who doesn't understand what's required of him, probably because no one taught him properly in the first place. That means going back to the beginning to train for total understanding. Shortcuts and punishment aren't fair, and they won't work.

Before you start training, though, you must be sure that what you really have is a behavior problem and not a physical problem. This is especially true with a dog who has been reliable in the home before. Your dog needs a comprehensive veterinary checkup to rule out health problems that make good house-manners difficult or even impossible. If your pet has such a problem, it will need to be fully resolved before training begins.

House-training an adult dog uses the same principles as house-training a puppy, except you have to be even more diligent because you need to do some untraining, too. And a lot of cleaning: You must thoroughly clean any soiled area with enzymatic cleaner (available through pet-supply outlets) to eliminate the smell that invites repeat business. Again, no shortcuts: If your home has served as your pet's potty, you may even need to remove carpets and padding because even if you can't smell old urine, your dog likely can.

You'll need to teach your dog what's right before you can correct him for what's wrong. To do this, spend a couple of weeks ensuring that he has nothing but successes by never giving him the opportunity to make a mistake.

Here's how:

-- Leash him to you in the house so you can monitor his every move during his training period. If he starts to mess, tell him "no," take him outside, and give him a command for going (I use "hurry up" with my dogs). Then praise him for doing right, so that he starts to understand what you want.

-- Put him in a crate whenever he's not on leash with you. It's not unfair during training to leave him in a crate for four or five hours at a stretch -- assuming, of course, that he's getting regular daily exercise.

-- Take him outside first thing in the morning, as soon as you get home from work and just before you go to bed (when you put him in his crate for the night). Always remember to give your "go" command, and praise him when he does as you wish. I find that people never seem shy about punishing their dogs, but too often forget to praise them -- they take it for granted the dog should do the right thing. Never, ever forget the praise!

If you've been consistent, your dog will likely get a good idea of what's expected of him within a couple of weeks, and you can start to give him a little freedom. However, don't let him have the run of the house yet. Keep his area small and let him earn the house, room by room, as he proves his understanding of the house rules.

Accidents happen. If you catch him in the act, tell him "no," take him outside, and give him the chance to set things right. Give your "go" command and praise him if he does. Clean up the mess inside promptly and thoroughly, so he won't feel inclined to refresh his smell there. Don't punish him for any messes you find after the fact.

If you aren't catching him, you're not keeping close enough tabs on him. Go back to the crate and leash, and start over.

If you continue to have problems, ask your veterinarian for a referral to a veterinary behaviorist. One-on-one assistance can pinpoint the problems in your training regimen and get you both on the right track.

Video bonus: Watch Pet Connection's Dr. Marty Becker explain how to reduce your dog's shedding (vetstreet.com/reduce-pet-hair-in-your-home).

Q&A

Good groomers

not optional

Q: I've adopted a poodle mix. He came clipped from the shelter, but my follow-ups with the scissors aren't looking good, and he's starting to hate me for them. What should I do? -- via email

A. For dogs such as poodles, bichons and many terriers, finding a good groomer is almost a necessity, since the maintenance involved with the coats of these breeds and their mixes is beyond the ability or interest of most pet lovers.

For many other dogs, such as collies, spaniels and the like, regular attention from a professional groomer can make at-home coat maintenance such as combing and brushing more manageable, and can keep dogs looking and smelling better.

Start your groomer search by asking friends, neighbors and co-workers for recommendations. Your dog's veterinarian may also be able to refer you to one.

A groomer should need only two to four hours for a routine wash and clip, unless your dog is matted and tangled. There's no reason for your dog to hang out all day when he's not being worked on.

Don't wait so long between appointments that your dog is full of mats and then expect the groomer to be able to work them out. Listen to your groomer: If she says clipping the coat away is the best way to go, you're better off following her advice than subjecting your dog to hours of fur-pulling.

Make sure, too, that the groomer is clear on what you expect your dog to look like when she's done if clipping is involved. And if you don't want bows, nail polish and perfume, don't forget to speak up beforehand. -- Dr. Marty Becker

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

THE BUZZ

Economy pushing

pets into shelters

-- Why do people drop off their dogs in shelters or, even sadder, leave them in the streets to fend for themselves? The housing crisis and the rough economy are adding to the top three reasons why dogs end up homeless: moving, landlord issues and the cost of pet maintenance. Other factors include (in order): no time for a pet, no room, too many pets, pet illness, personal problem and biting. For cats, the economic factors haven't hit as hard, with "too many pets" and "allergies" as the top two reasons for giving up a cat, and "moving" at No. 3. The others, in order: cost of pet maintenance, landlord issues, no homes for littermates, house-soiling, personal problems, no room, doesn't get along.

-- Catnip (Nepeta cataria) makes some cats very happy, but doesn't do a thing for others. Kittens under the age of 3 months do not react to catnip, and not all cats are genetically programmed to react to catnip -- the split is about 50-50. Catnip is a harmless pleasure for those cats who enjoy it.

-- Everyone needs a vacation, even Britain's royal horses, who are given a three-week vacation every year. They go to the beach, where they get to gallop freely on the sandy shores and swim in the ocean.

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet care experts headed by "Good Morning America" and "The Dr. Oz Show" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are affiliated with Vetstreet.com and also the authors of many best-selling pet care books. Dr. Becker can also be found at Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker or on Twitter at DrMartyBecker.

It's a New Year's tradition around my home, one that has outlived three generations of pets but still works to help ensure the safety of the animals I live with now.

No, not resolutions, although I make those, too -- vowing, among other things, to exercise the dogs more, take more time for their training and do more for animals who are not as lucky as mine are.

The tradition I'm talking about is far easier to accomplish. I call the pets over and check their necks.

I always do my "neck checks" around the first of the year. It's easy to remember that way, especially for me, a person who has a hard time remembering much of anything when it comes to appointments: heartworm and flea medications on the first of the month, neck checks the first of the year, annual exams on each pet's birthday. (Any variation and I'm hopelessly lost!)

The neck check is easy, taking a few minutes to look for wear and fit on the collars, and legibility on the tags.

Consider the collar first. A properly fitted collar is important, but so is the right type. For dogs, a buckled or snap-together collar made of leather or nylon webbing is the best choice, and the proper fit is comfortably close but not too snug. Make sure your dog's not wearing a "choke" or prong collar for everyday use. These pose a potentially deadly hazard if left on an unsupervised dog.

When it comes to cat collars, some people fear their pet will get snagged while roaming and die. Other people argue that their cats stay indoors and so never need a collar. But if your pet has ever slipped out, or might, you ought to reconsider a collar and tag. As for cats being caught by their collars, this is resolved by the simple piece of elastic in most cat collars that enables the pet to slip free of the collar in a pinch.

If you have the right kind of collar on your pet, look at the holes and the fasteners. The collar is weakest at these spots, so if you see signs of excessive wear or strain, you'll need to replace the collar soon.

As for those tags, they need checking, too. A license is great, but since many lost pets are picked up by people in the neighborhood, it's a good idea to supplement the license with an ID tag that has a couple of phone numbers -- your home, mobile and the number of a friend or relative. Check to make sure the information is current and legible, and if not, order a new tag. I never put the pet's name or my address on the tags. Instead, my pets' tags say "REWARD!" with a collection of phone numbers. I want to get the point across that I want my pets back quickly.

Don't delay in fixing any problems you find with your pet's neck check. Issues with collars and tags are easy to fix, and these items are the cheapest insurance you can buy against loss or accidents. And if your pet isn't microchipped, add that to your to-do list. Animals given up as lost forever have been reunited with their families because of this technology.

Video bonus: Watch Pet Connection's Dr. Marty Becker and his daughter, dog-trainer Mikkel Becker, discuss the best -- and worst -- choices for collars on Vetstreet.com (vetstreet.com/learn/choosing-the-right-collar-for-your-pet).

Q&A

Cats need vets

for pain help

Q: Is aspirin safe for cats? -- via email

A: It's most definitely not OK and, in fact, I don't recommend it even for dogs anymore, based on research findings that have linked aspirin use in dogs to gastric ulcers. But though the use of aspirin in dogs has long been common practice -- even if that may be changing -- the use of aspirin in cats has never been recommended.

Cats are very sensitive to pain medications, and that's why veterinarians have long been reluctant to wade into these murky waters, even when faced with cats in chronic pain. With the increase in the keeping of indoor cats, however, many of these pets are living longer, healthier lives -- or they would be if the constant pain of arthritis did not decrease their quality of life. The management of that pain is extremely important, especially in older cats.

But it's not just older cats who benefit. Treating pain doesn't just make the hurting stop: It also promotes healthy healing. Untreated pain slows healing time, interferes with sleep and depresses the immune system. The treatment of pain improves respiration, shortens postsurgical hospitalization and improves mobility.

Can you see why I'm a strong advocate for modern pain management for our pets? Despite the benefits, though, you should never -- let me emphasize that -- (BEGIN ITAL)NEVER(END ITAL) give pain medication to your cat without your veterinarian's guidance. If your veterinarian is reluctant to provide medication and advice on pain control, push for a consultation with a specialist to design a safe, individualized pain-management program for your pet. Veterinary specialists in oncology, surgery and anesthesia are usually most familiar with the wide variety of pain medications available today, as well as their safest use. -- Dr. Marty Becker

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

THE BUZZ

Do your homework

before donating

Considering end-of-year donations to charities? Don't forget organizations that help animals.

You don't have to give money to help, though. Shelters can often use items you might be throwing away, such as old newspapers or frayed towels. You might also consider buying large bags of pet food or cat litter and donating those, not only to shelters but also to community food pantries.

What if you do have a little cash to spare? Make sure you agree with the work and the views of any organization that wants your money. And consider this: Groups that don't have the money for direct-mail fundraising campaigns or TV advertising could probably use your donation more than the ones that spend big bucks to get your cash.

In addition to your community's shelter and rescue groups, remember that other organizations could use some support. Some ideas:

-- Health research: The Winn Feline Foundation has funded some of the most important research to advance the health of cats, with results that have saved countless lives. On the dog side, the AKC Health Foundation gives grants for research that's both general and breed-specific.

-- Veterinary schools: Your first thought may be "scholarships" -- and yes, that's one of the many ways a contribution to your nearest school or college of veterinary medicine can help -- but donations can also help pets more directly, and are always needed.

-- Fix-it funds: The American Animal Hospital Association's Helping Pets Fund works through veterinarians to help pets whose owners can't afford care.

-- Therapy animals: Animals help people in more ways than I have room to list here. From programs where dogs help teach children to read to those helping injured veterans get back on their feet by getting on a horse, animal-assisted therapy is always worth supporting. -- Dr. Marty Becker

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" and "The Dr. Oz Show" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are affiliated with Vetsteet.com and also the authors of many best-selling pet-care books. Dr. Becker can also be found at Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker or on Twitter at DrMartyBecker.

Every year, I make the rounds of pet-industry trade shows and veterinary conferences, and every year I at least glance at thousands of new pet-care products. While a few are truly innovative, many are just variations on a theme as companies work to mimic top sellers as closely as they can without getting sued.

Whether any new product will catch on is anyone's guess, though few will reach the level of those that truly have changed the way we live with our pets.

I recently mentioned five such products for dogs. Now, here's equal time for cats, with a handful of items that have changed the world for cat lovers:

Litter

While the idea of keeping a box inside for cats to use as a potty was around for a while, it never really took off until Edward Lowe happened upon what he called "kitty litter" in 1947. His dad owned a company that made industrial cleanup materials, and when someone asked him to suggest something for a cat box, he filled up a bag of Fuller's Earth, a kind of absorbent clay. When Lowe sold his Kitty Litter company decades later, he was rich beyond his wildest dreams, and cats had become more popular than dogs as pets. Today, more than 80 percent of cat owners have litter boxes in their homes, although clumping litter is used in most of them now, not the material on which Lowe built his company.

Scratching posts/cat trees

Clawing is natural, normal and very satisfying for cats. While cat lovers may understand the normal and natural behavior, they're not on board with the satisfying when then shredded objects include the furniture. No one knows who first came up with the idea of providing cats an approved place to scratch, but the idea was a great one for both cats and people. While scratching posts used to look like DIY fright shows covered in dreadful colors of leftover '70s shag carpet, today it is easy to find cat trees and other related items that keep cats happy and divert attention from the corner of the sofa.

Microchips

Cats are notorious for roaming, even if they have to slip out against an owner's wishes to do it. They're also pretty good at slipping out of their collars, since cat collars are designed to give way if a cat gets caught on something. Problem is, a cat with no ID tag is unlikely to be reunited with her family, and shelter workers sadly note that many "strays" turned in are obviously lost pets.

The microchip betters the odds of a reunion, since most shelters scan lost pets for such ID. The size of a grain of rice and easily implanted at a veterinarian's office or shelter, the microchip is the best insurance you can buy to help your cat come home when lost.

Cat fishing toys

Cats love string, but string can be a problem for cats. Young cats and kittens sometimes swallow string, and that can lead to a crisis that requires surgery. That's why whoever first thought of tying one end of a string to a pole and the other to a cat toy deserves a nod for coming up with what may be the best cat toy ever. You can find all kinds of variations on the cat fishing toy, and you can even make your own. It's all good -- and it keeps your cat busy, you amused and the claws on the end of the string. Runner-up: Laser pointer, and only second because you can't make it on your own.

Catios

While many cats still come and go as they please, owners who let them out do expose them to the risks of being hit by cars, eaten by coyotes, poisoned or trapped by cat-hating neighbors and more. But the inside life isn't perfect, either: Many indoor cats are bored and overweight, and that latter is a problem that leads to some serious health issues. Cat patios, or catios, can help by offering cats some safe outdoor space to enjoy. While these can be purchased ready-made, they're also a pretty easy DIY project that can easily be made from scrap lumber and some inexpensive screening.

That's my list! Feel free to drop me a note with your favorites for cats, dogs or others pets, to petconnection@gmail.com.

Q&A

Bigger box may

keep cat happy

Q: We have what you could call "hit and miss" behavior regarding our cat and the litter box. Sometimes she goes in the box but leaves her mess outside it. And sometimes she doesn't seem to like the litter (we buy what's on sale). Ideas? -- via email

A: If you want your cat to use her litter box, ask her opinion first. If your cat isn't happy, you won't be happy, either.

Start with the filler. Let your cat choose from a litter "buffet." Buy at least four different types of litter. Choose at least one that is the clumping kind -- the No. 1 choice of most cats. If your clumping option is scented, offer an unscented clumping one, too. We may love scented products, but cats generally don't. Fill each box with at least 2 inches of litter, and see which litter she prefers. Donate the rejected brands to a local shelter or rescue group.

I'm also guessing the litter box may be too small. Your cat's litter box should be one and a half to two times as long as your cat's length from nose to tail. That gives her enough space to turn around in the box and dig. If you can't find a box at the pet store that's an appropriate size, a plastic sweater box or an underbed storage box makes a great cat box.

Don't bother with box liners: Scrub the box with a solution of bleach and water regularly, rinse well and allow to air dry. It's always handy to have two boxes, so while one's air-drying, the other is available. Better yet, have three: Two fresh and available for use and another on standby. Some cats are so particular about their boxes that they'll use one for urine and the other for feces. (I actually own one such cat myself!) -- Gina Spadafori

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

THE BUZZ

'Four on the floor'

describes most cats

-- Most cats have five toes on their front paws, but only four of them hit the ground. The fifth toe is called a dewclaw and is found on the inside of the front paw. The dewclaw is the feline equivalent of our thumb, and it's used for grasping prey and climbing trees. A normal feline back paw, by the way, has four toes that are all called into service when walking. Any number of toes over the norm (usually an extra one or two, but occasionally as many as three or four) makes a cat polydactyl, which means "many fingers." Polydactylism is a dominant genetic trait, which means just one polydactyl parent is enough to make a litter of polydactyl kittens. These cats are also called "Hemingway cats," after the ones kept by Ernest Hemingway.

-- Dogs who bite children often have no priors, according to Veterinary Economics magazine, which reported on research from the journal Injury Prevention. In a study of 100 dog bites from 103 dogs presented at a behavior clinic over a four-year period, 20 percent of the dogs had never bitten anyone, and of those who had, 33 percent had never bitten a child before. Researchers think anxiety or pain may play a part in uncharacteristic aggression. Three-quarters of the biters exhibited anxiety when separated from their owners or when exposed to loud noises, such as thunderstorms or fireworks. Half of the biting dogs had medical conditions such as skin or bone growths, eye or liver problems, kidney disease, hormonal conditions or infection.

-- Cats may be the No. 1 pet in the United States in terms of popularity, but dogs rule at the veterinary office. According to the American Veterinary Medical Assoc., dogs average 2.6 veterinary visits per year, while cats top out at 1.7. -- Dr. Marty Becker and Mikkel Becker

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" and "The Dr. Oz Show" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are affiliated with Vetsteet.com and also the authors of many best-selling pet-care books. Dr. Becker can also be found at Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker or on Twitter at DrMartyBecker.