In pets, as in people, having one doctor to oversee and coordinate care has definite advantages. But in these days of larger veterinary hospitals, it can be more difficult to see the same veterinarian routinely.

Is it worth the effort to have a "primary care veterinarian"? For the most part, it is, and if you shift how you manage your pet's care, you can make coordinating care with one veterinarian easier to manage.

But first, those advantages. When you routinely see the same veterinarian, you're working with a doctor who is familiar not only with your pet and his medical history, but also with you. Over time, you and your veterinarian can develop a mutually respectful relationship that promotes a partnership dedicated to keeping your pet healthy.

That's not the end of the story, of course, because your pet may need to be seen by other veterinarians, not only when your veterinarian isn't available for urgent or emergency care, but also when your pet can benefit from a referral to a specialist. Ideally, your veterinarian will help you to decide when calling in colleagues can help your pet. She'll also work to integrate the specialist's work into the overarching care plans for your pet.

What happens when you can't see your regular veterinarian? Seeing a different veterinarian in the same practice isn't the worst thing that can happen. After all, your pet's records will bring the attending veterinarian up to date, and the practice's expert veterinary technicians are there to help with continuity of care as well. In a well-run veterinary hospital, the standard of care is very high overall, and your pet will be well cared for, no matter what.

What may suffer, though, will be your ability to communicate with a doctor you don't know as well. That's especially important if you don't feel as comfortable about asking questions of a new veterinarian or following up on recommended treatments.

Fortunately, there's a way to resolve this for the most part: Shift your focus to preventive care.

When you concentrate on working with your veterinarian to prevent health problems instead of reacting to health emergencies, you'll not only save money by catching little problems before they become big ones, but you'll also be saving your pet the suffering and stress that comes with a full-blown illness.

The cornerstone of preventive care is a once-a-year -- or, ideally, twice-a-year -- comprehensive veterinary visit that gives your vet the chance to go over your pet nose to toes to tail and utilize simple diagnostic tests that can spot problems before symptoms show. During these visits your veterinarian can review other preventive care strategies, such as good nutrition, parasite control and maintaining a healthy weight and an active lifestyle.

In terms of seeing the same veterinarian, when you switch to focus on preventive care, you can schedule your veterinary visits far enough out to almost always see the same veterinarian in the practice. Though accidents and other emergencies will still need to be treated urgently by the first veterinarian available, with a preventive care plan the majority of your pet's care will be in the hands of the same doctor.

Communication and respect is key to a great relationship with a doctor, no matter if it's your own or your pet's. It's worth working at it to make that work.

Q&A

Some tips to keep

senior pets warm

Q: While it seems like just yesterday that my husband and I started with two kittens and a young dog, we've now got a houseful of senior pets. Do you have tips for easing their discomfort over the cold months? -- via email

A: Keep them lean, provide warm, soft resting spots and talk to your veterinarian about relief from joint pain, and your pets will get through the winter more comfortably.

For older dogs, especially large ones, check out beds made of therapeutic foam that conforms to your pet's body shape while supporting every joint. Some of these beds come ready to plug in, but you can turn any of them into heated sleepers by adding a pet-safe heating element. For cats, heat that's all around like surround sound will keep them feline groovy. Look for a heated cup-style bed with plush insides.

While soft beds and leaner bodies have always been best for our pets, it's only in recent years that veterinarians have been able to offer medications, supplements and other measures that can reduce or even eliminate the pain of osteoarthritis. All pain-management plans need to be developed by your veterinarian -- guessing with over-the-counter pain meds can kill your cat (acetominephen) or cause ulcers in your dog (aspirin).

Modern prescription nonsteroidal anti-inflammatories (NSAIDs) can seem like miracle drugs, and the risks of using them can be greatly minimized by following your veterinarian's recommendations for checking for kidney and liver problems before and during long-term use. You also need to be aware of the signs of a problem: Stop giving the drug immediately and call your veterinarian if you observe vomiting or lethargy, or if your pet stops showing interest in eating. These drugs help millions of pets, but I would not be doing my job as a veterinarian if I didn't alert you to potential problems. I know your veterinarian will do the same. -- Dr. Marty Becker

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

THE BUZZ

Why cats beeline

for non-cat guests

-- Why, in a room full of people, will a cat invariably make a beeline for the one person in the room who hates or is allergic to cats? Cats don't like eye contact from strangers -- they find it intimidating. When a friendly cat wanders into a room, he'll notice that all the people who like cats are looking at him. So he heads for the one who he thinks is being polite -- the person who isn't looking at him. The cat doesn't realize that the person isn't looking because he doesn't want the cat near him. It's just a little bit of cross-species miscommunication. That's one theory, anyway. Or maybe putting cat fur on the slacks of a cat hater really is the ultimate in feline fun.

-- Some pets just seem to be a natural fit with children. According to the American Pet Products Association, many small "pocket pets" are more likely to be found in homes with children present. While rabbits are now slightly more popular as a pets for adults, guinea pigs, for example, are far more likely to be a child's pet.

-- Circumstances are a more likely indicator of a dog's potential to bite someone than the animal's breed or mix, according to an analysis of bite statistics. Loose dogs, territory-protecting dogs, frightened dogs and dogs involved in fights with another animal were those most likely to be involved in biting a person. Most bites in the home were triggered by a dog guarding food or a toy, or biting a visiting friend or relative in a display of territory- or object-guarding. The number of bite incidents roughly correlated with a breed's popularity -- more of a certain kind of dog meant more bites from that kind of dog. Age and gender also played a role, with adolescent male dogs more likely to bite -- and bite more severely -- than older dogs or female dogs. And children were bitten more often than adults. -- Gina Spadafori

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" and "The Dr. Oz Show" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are affiliated with Vetsteet.com and also the authors of many best-selling pet-care books. Dr. Becker can also be found at Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker or on Twitter at DrMartyBecker.

Is "people food" safe for dogs? Some is, some isn't, and knowing what's OK to share can mean the difference between a healthy treat and a trip to the emergency clinic.

-- Sugar-free candy and gum.

Read the label of your favorite sugar-free gum, candy or even cough drop, and you'll likely find xylitol on the ingredients list. The sweetener has become extremely popular in recent years, and its increased use has led to many cases of poisoning in dogs. The product causes low blood sugar and liver failure in canines. If you carry sugar-free gum or candy in your purse or backpack, make sure you keep it out of reach of your pet.

-- Chocolate.

Though xylitol's toxicity comes as a surprise to many people, pretty much everyone knows that chocolate can be a problem for dogs. And it is, but it's not as dangerous as most people think. The thing to remember: The darker the chocolate and the smaller the dog, the more dangerous the combination. If your Labrador Retriever eats a small bar of milk chocolate, she'll likely get only a bellyache. But a tiny Maltese who eats a few ounces of dark chocolate could land in the emergency clinic.

-- Raisins and grapes.

No one really knows why grapes and their dried relations, raisins, are a problem for dogs, but they surely are. Dogs who eat a large amount of either may go into renal failure. It may be that some dogs are sensitive and others are less sensitive, and it's unknown if small amounts over time can be as dangerous as one large bunch of grapes or raisins. Due to the uncertainty, the ASPCA's Animal Poison Control Center advises against giving any amount of raisins or grapes to any dog at any time.

-- Macadamia nuts.

Another medical mystery, these nuts are best not shared with your pets -- especially if they are cloaked in dark chocolate. Though fatalities are rare, as few as 10 nuts can cause frightening symptoms in a small dog, such as muscle weakness, tremors and vomiting. It's just not worth it.

-- Onions and garlic.

Garlic and onions can damage healthy red blood cells, leading to life-threatening anemia if not caught and treated in time. Final note: Veterinarians often recommend that ill pets who won't eat be tempted with meat-variety baby food. But be careful to read the label, as some baby foods contain garlic and onions. Choose a brand without them.

Now that I've told you what you can't share with your dog, I'm happy to share my favorite treats that you both can eat. Some words of warning first:

Treats count as food. More than half the nation's pets are overweight or obese. So while it's OK, in general, to share healthy food with your pet, watch the size of the treats (break them up -- dogs can count, but they can't measure) and the frequency.

Treats also can lead to behavior problems. If you give your pet a treat whenever he asks, be prepared for him to ask often -- and to move to demand when a polite request doesn't bring forth the goodies. Make sure every treat you give is on your terms, not your dog's. Even better: Use treats for training, which means you'll be working toward a goal when the goodies come out.

So what kinds of people food are good for sharing? My favorites are baby carrots and apple slices. I also like sharing blueberries, yogurt and lean bits of meat, such as baked or boiled chicken with the fatty skin removed. When in doubt, ask your veterinarian if a particular food is safe for your pet.

The bottom line: A little sharing can be OK. Just know what's safe for your pet and make sure you're not either helping your dog pack on the pounds or learn tricks you'd rather he not.

Q&A

Raising two pups

can be too much

Q: I'm thinking about getting a pair of puppies, so they can keep each other company. Would you suggest choosing two from the same litter or different litters? -- via email

A: I don't usually recommend raising two puppies together. The first-year start-up costs of puppies -- vaccinations, spaying or neutering, as well as unexpected visits to the ER because youngsters often get into trouble -- easily outpace the routine costs of adult pets. And that's not counting all the other supplies you'll need for a puppy, including toys, a collar, a leash and a crate. Multiply that by two and you face some serious budget implications.

There's also the issue of time. Raising a puppy requires a serious commitment, from properly socializing a youngster to attending puppy kindergarten sessions and training classes for more mature puppies. Youngsters who miss out on early socialization and opportunities for learning are more likely to turn into problem adult dogs -- and you don't get a second chance to raise a puppy right. If you have two puppies, you'll need double the time to provide each one with the socialization and training he deserves.

If you believe that you can handle the time and money constraints, you may be better off selecting puppies from different litters. Puppies from the same litter, especially those of the same sex, may have dominance issues. Reputable breeders often raise promising show or working puppies in the homes of friends or family to allow the youngsters to blossom in environments free of bossier siblings.

As an alternative, you may consider getting a puppy and a well-mannered adult dog. There are many advantages to this scenario: Adult dogs are generally less costly than puppies to get and to care for. Plus, an older dog can be a good influence on a puppy, as long as you allow the adult dog to settle in for a month or two before bringing the youngster home.

Regardless of your decision, I applaud your intention to provide the best quality of life for the two dogs you bring into your family. They will be very lucky indeed. -- Gina Spadafori

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

THE BUZZ

Key to knowing

what cat says

When you're visiting a foreign country, you probably try to learn some words and phrases in the native language to help you get around -- magic words like "please," "thank you," and most important: "Where is the bathroom?"

It's smart to do the same thing when you get a cat. The ability to understand your cat's body language and vocalizations will help you understand him and communicate with him. As a bonus, your cat will think you're a genius.

Here's a short feline phrasebook to get you started:

-- Head butt: "I like you."

-- Face rub: "You belong to me."

-- Whiskers forward: "I'm feeling friendly or curious."

-- Whiskers moving during a nap: "I'm dreaming about chasing mice."

-- Ears up, whiskers straight out, staring intently: "I'm on guard here."

-- Arched back with tail bushed out: "Back off."

-- Crouching, ears low, whiskers back, pupils wide: "I'm ready to defend myself."

-- Narrowed pupils: "I'm feeling aggressive."

-- Tail swishing rapidly: "Leave me alone!"

-- Tail low, twitching erratically: "I'm on the prowl!."

-- Tail moving languidly: "Keep petting me."

-- Tail upright: "I'm happy."

See? There's a lot more to a cat then the purr. -- Mikkel Becker

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" and "The Dr. Oz Show" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are affiliated with Vetsteet.com and also the authors of many best-selling pet-care books. Dr. Becker can also be found at Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker or on Twitter at DrMartyBecker.

It's a fact of life that cats scratch, and it's good for them to do so. But you don't have to live with shredded furniture or ratty-looking walls and flooring. It's easy to teach a cat to use a scratching post as long as you understand what he's looking for in the way of communication, claw conditioning and fulfillment of his need to stretch and exercise.

Scratching is first and foremost a means of communication. Your cat is saying, "I, Purrcy, was here. Look how big I am, and how high up I can scratch." That's why cats like to scratch in places that will be seen by other cats; think of it as feline "graffiti." Scratching leaves traces of scent, undetectable by people but perceptible to other cats, deposited from glands on the paws.

We don't know exactly what message they're sending, but it's obviously important. So scratching on a post stuck off in a dark corner makes no sense to a cat. He's going to look for an object to scratch that has a much more prominent place in his living area, and that may well be the arm of your sofa.

Scratching also keeps claws and paws in shape. It sheds the dead keratin that sheathes the claws, making way for a new covering, and it exercises the muscles in the legs and paws that are so important to a cat's agility. Stretching is a big part of scratching, and we all know how good that feels. So instead of trying to stop your cat from scratching, encourage him to scratch on objects that are convenient for you and attractive to him.

The best scratching post is tall enough for your cat to extend his body full-length when he scratches. A little one-footer might be OK for a kitten, but a full-grown cat needs a post that is at least three feet high to allow him to perform the stretches that are part of his enjoyment of scratching. The post can be upright or angled as long as it's an appropriate length.

You also need to think about what's covering the post. Forget carpet! For one thing, cats don't see why the carpet on the post is okay to scratch but not the carpet on the floor. For another, materials like rope, sisal, hemp and burlap offer a lot more texture and shreddability, making them more pleasurable for the cat to scratch. You want him to think that the post, the cat tree and other acceptable scratching items -- hemp mats, for instance -- are so great that he doesn't even want to scratch anywhere else.

Choose a sturdy post. The fastest way to turn your cat off of using a scratching post is to buy one that falls over on him while he's climbing or scratching on it.

Provide more than one post -- and don't hide them away. Remember that cats like to show off their scratching prowess. If your cat is making his mark on a certain piece of furniture or pair of drapes, place the scratching post nearby so he'll have a better option for giving his claws a workout. Put one in front of a window so your cat can check out the birds and squirrels while he's scratching.

Encourage your cat to use the post by running your fingers up and down it or brushing a feather along the side of it. The motion will attract your cat and entice him to scratch. A little catnip, judiciously placed on top of the post and rubbed into the rope or sisal, may also gain his attention. Spraying the pheromone product Feliway on the object you want scratched really encourages its use, as well.

Be sure to praise your cat or give him a treat every time you see him using the post.

If you do your part and give your cat what he wants, he'll do his and leave your things alone.

Q&A

Cat doesn't

like to cuddle

Q: My cat doesn't like to sit in my lap, and I don't know how to change this. Do you have a suggestion? -- via e-mail

A: Not every cat will be a lap cat, and that's not something you can change through socialization or training -- in part, it seems to be genetically programmed.

Even if he won't cuddle with you, you can encourage your cat to be more affectionate by communicating with him through touch and body language. It's tempting to stare into his beautiful eyes, but to a cat that's rude beyond belief. A stare is a threat, so direct your gaze elsewhere when you're talking to him. Speak in a soft, gentle voice. Spend time grooming your cat.

The act of grooming him can be therapeutic for both of you and is a wonderful way to build a bond of trust. Talk to him softly and give him a treat when you're done.

While having your cat sit near you -- not on you -- may be as good as you'll ever get, as your bond strengthens your cat may want to hang out with you a lot more than he does now. -- Gina Spadafori

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

THE BUZZ

LA puts teeth

in no-bark law

-- In a move that could well be followed by other cities and towns, the Los Angeles City Council voted to fine the owners of dogs who bark constantly. Owners would face fines starting at $250 for a first offense, $500 for a second and $1,000 for a third if a hearing conducted by the Department of Animal Services determines that a dog barks too much. Barking is defined as excessive if it continues for 10 minutes or more, or intermittently for 30 minutes or more within a three-hour period.

-- Your dog may look guilty, but he's not feeling that way. A study had dog owners tell their pets to leave a tasty treat alone before leaving the room. Researchers found that whether or not the dog showed the "guilty" look did not depend on whether the dog had eaten the treat or not, but rather on whether the owner had scolded the dog. Dogs who didn't eat the treat but were scolded by their owners displayed the "guilty" look more than dogs who had actually eaten the treat, but their owners did not believe they had, and thus didn't get scolded. The research suggests that "guilt" seen in dogs is not really an effect of the unwanted behavior that the dog performed, but is instead a reaction to the owner's behavior.

-- Nico Dauphine, a postdoctoral fellow at the Smithsonian's National Zoo, resigned her position after being found guilty of attempted animal cruelty after being caught on camera putting poison into food left out for feral cats. Dauphine's work, which was brought to public attention during the trial, argued that free-roaming cats are causing irreversible harm to bird populations. Feline advocates, including feral cat defenders Alley Cat Allies, are now demanding the work be disregarded because of the verdict, saying that it reflects her anti-cat bias. Her lawyer had argued that she was removing the food to keep cats from congregating, and she repeatedly denied the charges. -- Dr. Marty Becker and Mikkel Becker

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" and "The Dr. Oz Show" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are affiliated with Vetsteet.com and also the authors of many best-selling pet-care books. Dr. Becker can also be found at Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker or on Twitter at DrMartyBecker.