Toys are essential to maintaining the physical and mental well-being of parrots large and small. Playthings help keep pet birds fit, while also fighting the boredom that can contribute to behavioral problems such as feather-picking.

There are toys your bird can hold, toys that hang from the top and sides of the cage, and toys that do double duty as perches and swings. Twirlies, holdies, chewies, puzzles and noisemakers can all keep your bird occupied. Although you can buy toys by major manufacturers from the big chain stores, it's also nice to choose from the variety of playthings lovingly made by a cottage industry of bird lovers that are available from independent bird shops, through catalogs and on the Internet.

Some basic rules apply when shopping for toys to ensure they are suitable and safe for your bird. Look for the following when choosing bird toys:

-- Materials: Toys are subject to your bird's healthy urge to destroy, which means safe components are a must. Wood, rawhide, plastic or stainless-steel chain, rope, cloth and hard plastic are among the more popular materials that make up safe toys. Choose toys that break down into pieces that can't be swallowed. An exception: Toys made to hold food items, such as dried corncobs or fruit chunks. With these, eating is a large part of the fun.

-- Construction: Challenging toys, the best choice for busy birds, feature pieces combined in ways that make it hard for the birds to pull the whole product apart -- but not too hard. Indestructible toys are not appropriate for most birds, because the time and energy used to rip apart the gadget is part of the reason toys fill such a need.

-- Size: Little toys for little birds; big toys for big birds. A big bird can catch and lose a toe in a toy made for a smaller bird, and small birds can get their heads trapped in toys made for their larger relatives.

Some birds are apprehensive of new toys. If yours is one of them, try to set the toy outside the cage (but within eye range) for a day or two, and then put it on the floor of the cage for another day or two. Once your bird starts to play with the toy, you can go ahead and attach it to the cage. (Stainless-steel split-ring key chains, available at any hardware store, are a safe, secure and inexpensive way to attach toys to cage bars.)

Don't overwhelm your pet with toys. Instead, keep two or three in the cage and rotate new ones in regularly. Shopping for bird toys can be fun, but the costs do add up, especially if you have one of those gleefully destructive parrots. With some creativity you can make your money go further by complementing store-bought bird toys with alternatives.

The cardboard cores of toilet-paper and paper-towel rolls are perfect for shredding, especially for smaller birds. String those tubes together on a thick leather cord and hang them in your bird's cage. Other cheapies include ballpoint pens with the ink tubes removed, Ping-Pong balls, old plastic measuring cups and spoons, and plastic bottle tops. (Wash in hot soap and water, rinse well and air-dry before offering such items to your bird.)

Toothbrushes are another bargain toy -- sturdy and colorful. You can buy cheap ones new or give your pet your worn ones after running them through your dishwasher. (Or hand-washing in soapy water, followed by rinsing and air-drying.) The hard plastic keys on a ring sold for human babies are also a budget-wise buy that birds love, and real keys can be just as fun, after a scrubbing.

Keep your eyes and mind open for playthings your bird can enjoy -- you may surprise yourself with the possibilities!

Q&A

Cats can be difficult

to keep off shelves

Q: I have many pieces of glassware and figurines that I've collected over the years and that are very important to me. After my sweet old cat died early last year, I adopted a kitten. She's much more active than my old cat, and loves to jump up on things, including the shelves with my collectibles. She has already broken one piece, and two more would have been broken except that they fell onto the couch cushions. How can I keep her on the floor? -- via e-mail

A: Practically speaking, you can't keep cats on the ground -- they're designed to leap and climb. And that's certainly true while your new companion is in the crazy kitten stage.

The best you can do is to display your treasures in ways that keep them safe or, at least, safer. You might consider moving your collections to a single room and keeping the door closed when you're not around to supervise. Glass-fronted bookcases are another option for keeping collectibles and cats apart. For objects that don't need to be on a shelf, consider hanging them on a wall for display.

Although it's probably best to keep your most valuable pieces where your cat can't get to them, other objects can be made safer from the wanderings of active cats. Two products that will help: Quake Hold or Museum Gel -- two putties that seal objects to their display surfaces. If you can't find them at your home supply store, check out catalog and Internet retailers. -- Gina Spadafori

Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.

THE BUZZ

Veterinary visits fall

because of economy

-- Do pets need vets? The struggling economy has people cutting back on many things, including regular veterinary care. A study presented at the North American Veterinary Conference shows that 63 percent of dog owners and 68 percent of cat owners are questioning the need for regular veterinary care. The study, funded by Bayer Animal Health, also showed that older pets see the veterinarian less often than younger pets. When pet owners do go to the veterinarian, they report finding veterinary expenses to be higher than they expected.

-- A recent report suggests that a dog can help fight a sedentary lifestyle. Researchers at the University of Virginia found that having a family dog can help keep teens more active. Teens in dog-owning families did about 15 minutes of additional moderate to vigorous activity per week. Although children and adolescents may not have primary responsibility for walks, they are more active in general when it comes to playing with the dog.

-- Xylitol, a widely used sugar substitute for human consumption, is increasing the risk of poisoning for dogs. The ASPCA's Animal Poison Control Center reports more cases of Xylitol poisoning in dogs as the sweetener grows more popular. The APCC also notes that few people are aware of the risk, and are less careful to keep candies and gums sweetened with the product in places where their pets can't get them. Especially vulnerable are small dogs: Even a small dose of Xylitol can send a canine into hypoglycemic-induced seizures and fatal liver failure. -- Dr. Marty Becker and Mikkel Becker

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" and "The Dr. Oz Show" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of many best-selling pet-care books. Dr. Becker can also be found at Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker or on Twitter at DrMartyBecker.

By Dr. Tony Johnson

I'm the guy you don't want to meet in the middle of the night. No, I am not a mugger, a thief or a cat burglar -- I am an emergency veterinarian.

Most of my interactions with pet owners end with something like "Nice to meet you, thanks for helping Fluffy, and I hope I never see you again." Not because I lack social skills or have a crummy bedside manner (I hope not, anyway), but because emergency room visits are rarely pleasant for man or beast.

Avoiding me -- at least professionally -- is the best option, but you need to be prepared in any case.

By far the biggest issue in emergency medicine is cost. Medical expenses for emergency room visits can run into the thousands of dollars. (The highest veterinary bill I have ever seen was around $22,000.) That the cost is a tiny fraction of a similar visit to the human ER isn't that consoling when you're having to scramble for the money.

Pet insurance for pets is now a reality, and there are several companies competing for your business. Even with insurance, you should set aside money every month for the unexpected. Insurance typically refunds a portion of your bill, which means you still have to pay up front at the ER.

Here's what else you need to know:

-- Be prepared. You can turn the odds in your favor by being prepared for the unexpected. There's a good chance an emergency will happen: Most pets will make at least one trip to the veterinary ER during their lifetime, so it is best to know where your local ER is located before the need arises.

When you go out of town, make sure your pet sitter knows how to contact you, knows your pet's medications and knows how far you would like to go with regard to your pet's care. A letter giving them treatment authorization will also go a long way toward making the whole experience go smoothly.

-- Practice preventive and protective medicine. Vaccines and spay/neuter decisions are hot topics right now. From an ER perspective, though, there are a few points that everyone should follow:

1. If you have a dog less than two years of age, get him vaccinated against parvovirus. Most cases of parvovirus are preventable, and can cost upward of $2,000 to treat, whether your dog survives or not (and many don't).

2. See your veterinarian at least once a year for a physical and lab tests. Diagnostic tests can help spot problems before they develop, and they become more important as your pet ages. If you have a set of several years' worth of normal lab tests, you will also have a baseline "normal" to refer to if problems arise.

3. Pay attention to your pet's weight, eating and drinking habits. Just a few extra pounds can rob your dog of years of good life! Conversely, unexplained weight loss can be a symptom of something bad brewing. If your pet starts drinking more water or urinating more, this could be a sign of several conditions, such as diabetes, particularly in middle-aged cats.

4. Use a leash, keep cats indoors and dogs fenced in. Keep tight control on your dog at all times (even the best trained dogs can dash into traffic when seeing their sworn archenemy -- the squirrel). And an indoor cat is far more likely to live late into his teens than an outdoor cat.

5. Pet-proof your home. Dogs and cats explore everything and assume the world is edible unless proven otherwise. Keeping medications and poisons where pets can't reach them is a cheap and easy way to make sure we never get acquainted.

With a little bit of planning, a little bit of luck and a little bit of preparation, you can minimize the chance that we'll meet. Don't worry -- you won't hurt my feelings!

Dr. Tony Johnson is a member of the Pet Connection team and an associate professor of emergency and critical care medicine at the Purdue University School of Veterinary Medicine.

Q&A

Cat behavior can be

spotted in kittens

Q: What should we look for in kittens? We're getting one later this year, and they're all so cute that it's hard to pick just one. -- via e-mail

A: Checking out kittens involves playing with them, and that's something you can never spend enough time doing.

Before you head for the shelter, block out a big chunk of time and put on some comfortable clothes you don't mind getting dirty. Put some kitten-testing toys in your pocket. A feather is ideal, but you can also use a Ping-Pong ball, a cloth mouse or even a piece of string. (The string must leave when you do, though, since it's not suitable for unsupervised play.)

From the friendlier kittens, choose one to play with first. Lift her out with a reassuring but gentle grip under her belly, and set her down in a secure observation area.

Let her explore her new environment a little while you settle onto the floor, and then, when she's satisfied with her surroundings, chirp at her and tease her with the feather or other toy. She should pursue it eagerly, batting at it and pouncing as she goes, and sitting up on her haunches to swat at it as you tease it overhead. This is all normal behavior for a healthy, outgoing kitten. If yours shows it, she's passed the feather test.

The kitten you want should be neither too shy nor too assertive and active. You're looking for a baby who's comfortable being held, who enjoys your petting and your soothing voice. One who wants nothing but to wriggle free and keep playing -- even if not doing so out of fear -- may grow up into a cat who is too active for you.

Spend a few moments of quiet time with each of your contenders and see how they react to you as an individual and vice versa. Let your heart weigh in a little here, and be receptive to the idea that one of these little fluffballs may be the one who's meant for you.

If you find that too many meet all your criteria, consider adopting two -- or a kitten and an adult cat. Cats enjoy the companionship of others of their own kind. You'll enjoy doubling your feline companionship, too! -- Gina Spadafori

THE BUZZ

Your dog loves you

even if you're nuts

-- Your dog listens to you whether you're crazy or not -- and doesn't care either way. According to research published in the journal Animal Behavior, researchers could find no evidence that dogs can tell the difference between rational and irrational acts, showing that they don't understand if human behaviors make sense or not, and don't notice if a person is acting crazy. But they listen anyway, following behavior cues regardless of whether they make sense.

-- Wild species of felines living in dense vegetation and low light conditions are the most likely to be patterned, usually with irregular and complex patterns that are used as camouflage. Leopards, for example, have adapted to their regional surroundings, developing coloring and patterns that match their particular environment. The researchers at the University of Bristol who authored the study note that the cheetah is a well-known exception to the trend: a patterned cat that lives on open grasslands.

-- Being a more dominant animal has its drawbacks. Dominant male chimpanzees had a higher testosterone level and higher levels of internal parasites, according to a research team from Indiana and Yale universities. The study suggests either that elevated testosterone levels in males reduce their ability to fight infection, or that the behavioral aspect of increased contact with a greater number of animals puts them at greater risk. -- Dr. Marty Becker and Mikkel Becker

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" and "The Dr. Oz Show" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of many best-selling pet-care books. Dr. Becker can also be found at Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker or on Twitter at DrMartyBecker.

One of the most pervasive myths about cats is that they care more about places than people.

It's true that cats are territorial and will seek out familiar places when stressed, which is why they sometimes attempt to return to their old homes when moved. But they'll be much happier going where you go if you take steps to ease their transition from one home to another.

While you'll never manage a stress-free move for either yourself or your cat, you can make the best of the situation by keeping your pet secure before, during and after the move, and then by allowing your pet to gradually adapt to his new surroundings.

The best way to move your cat is to confine him to a "safe room" before and after the move, and to transport him from one house to another in a secure carrier. The ideal safe room is a spare bedroom or bathroom where your cat isn't going to be disturbed, and where he can be outfitted with food and water, a litter box, a scratching post and toys.

Don't feel bad about confining your pet. He'll be more relaxed in a small space where he won't be subjected to the stress of seeing people tromping around his house with the family belongings. Confining your cat also prevents him from slipping outside, which is a danger at both the old and the new home. A frightened cat may be hard to locate on the day of the move if you don't make sure he's somewhere that you can put your hands on him.

When you get to your new home, leave the carrier -- with its door open -- in the safe room. Close the door to the room and leave him be while you unpack. Coaxing him out of the carrier with treats and praise is fine, but let him choose when and how much of the safe room he wants to explore. Never drag him out -- you'll upset your cat, and you might get scratched or bitten.

A couple of days after you've unpacked and things have settled down, open the door to the safe room so your cat can explore the rest of the house. Even if you plan to let him outside, keep him in for a couple of weeks. He needs to stay inside to start forming a bond with his new surroundings. Better still, make the most of the opportunity offered by a move and convert your pet to indoor-only status. Your new neighbors will appreciate it, and your cat will live a longer, safer life.

It's relatively easy to make the conversion to indoor cat when you move to a new home. He'd carry on like crazy in your old home if locked in, but in new surroundings he'll accept the change with little fuss. Part of the reason cats don't like to convert to indoor-only is because they've marked the outside as part of their territory and have a natural desire to revisit it. A newly moved cat will learn to accept the territory he has been offered, and if the outdoors isn't part of it, he won't miss it as much.

Above all, don't rush your cat through a move. Confinement during the transition is also good for avoiding behavior problems that might pop up with the stress of moving. By limiting your cat's options to the litter box and the scratching post in his small safe room, he will quickly redevelop the good habits he had in your old home.

Q&A

Puppy classes great

for socialization

Q: After a lot of research, we found a breeder we liked who did all the health certifications on our future puppy's parents. She raises pups inside and socializes them. All good from what we've read, and we're getting our Newfoundland pup from her in about a month. But in our research we've encountered a dispute: Some sources (mostly trainers) say puppies need to get out and be socialized, and go to a puppy class, and other sources (mostly veterinarians) say puppies should never go out until all their puppy shots are done at four months. Who's right?

A: Both, really. It's essential for your puppy to be socialized, and a well-run puppy class is the best place to get your new family member off to the best possible start. And those veterinarians also are correct in saying that your puppy needs to be protected from disease until he is fully immunized.

Fortunately, you can protect your puppy from disease and still socialize your pet in a puppy class. That's because good puppy classes present minimal risk of contagious disease to the canine participants.

Whoa! I can already see readers stopping on the phrase "minimal risk." Perhaps I'd better say "acceptable risk." Or even "comparable risk," if you'll follow along to find out why.

There's nothing as important in a dog's life as getting off to a good start in terms of training and behavior. Dogs end up homeless because of poor behavior, and many such problems can be traced to a puppyhood without the proper training and socialization. It's always easier to prevent a behavior problem than to fix one, and that's why puppy classes are worth that "minimal risk."

If you look at it from a lifetime perspective, a dog is more likely to die from behavior problems than from disease. A pup's best chance at becoming a well-loved member of a family rests heavily on how easy that animal is to live with over time. The adorable puppy who grows into an out-of-control or aggressive dog is a solid candidate for a trip to a shelter, where he'll be unlikely to land a second chance.

Puppy classes teach youngsters how to get along with other dogs, be handled by any number of people, and learn the basic lessons of good behavior, from sitting on command to keeping all four paws on the ground when greeting people. A good puppy class uses positive techniques to teach puppies that learning is fun and people are good. And that's a lesson for life.

While puppy classes are fine, heed your veterinarian's advice and keep your pup away from other areas where other dogs frequent, such as parks. It's fine, though, to set up play dates in secure yards that have been inhabited by healthy dogs who are known to be up-to-date on their vaccines. The dogs of your friends and family are great for these socializing get-togethers, as are their children. The more your puppy is safely exposed to, the better. – Gina Spadafori

THE BUZZ

Dogs mean status

in the new China

-- China now counts almost a million registered pet dogs, and countless others fly beneath the government's radar. According to The New York Times, the popularity of dogs is a hot phenomenon that shows little sign of ending. Dog swimming pools, theaters for people and their pets, and dog-friendly bars are popping up, along with pet-friendly stores and canine social networks. The pets serve as stress relief and as substitute children in a society where one child is still the rule. Dogs are also considered status symbols in the new China: Walking around with a Tibetan Mastiff is a way of telling everyone that you have disposable income, and lots of it.

-- The vicious, fanged Chupacabra is a creature of legend, a scary doglike animal purported to suck the blood out of livestock. Scientists believe the Chupacabras that people report seeing are actually coyotes with severe cases of mange. The long snout, the hairlessness and the foul odor are all consistent with a mange-infested coyote. The same mite responsible for the disease causes scabies in people.

-- Animal hybrids may not be all that rare. An estimated 10 percent of animals and 25 percent of plants are said to occasionally breed with other species. Common crosses in captivity include zorses (zebra-horse) and the beefalo (bison-beef cattle). Most hybrids, like mules, are infertile. Hybrids are also far outnumbered and will be outcompeted by their parents' respective species. -- Dr. Marty Becker and Mikkel Becker

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" and "The Dr. Oz Show" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of many best-selling pet-care books. Dr. Becker can also be found at Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker or on Twitter at DrMartyBecker.