pets

Cat, Meet Dog

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | November 15th, 2010

Gina Spadafori

One thing that never fails to get a smile out of me is seeing my big orange cat, Ilario, happily curled up and purring loudly next to -- and occasionally on top of -- one of my four dogs. I love how well everyone gets along: They don't just tolerate each other -- they actually like each other.

It didn't start out that way, though. When Ilario arrived as a kitten, he spent more time puffed up and ready to run than purring. Once he realized he wasn't in any danger from his new four-legged family, he was able to relax and eventually even warmed to their company. Some nights I even catch him grooming my gentlest dog, 14-year-old Drew.

Some cats and dogs are never going to get along, but most can at least come to an agreement about sharing space. The trick is knowing the basic steps to handling the introductions.

Under no circumstances should dogs and cats be introduced by throwing the animals together and letting them work out things on their own. That method is far too stressful even in the best of conditions. It's also important to keep in mind that introductions can be dangerous, usually for the cats. Some dogs see cats as prey, and even those dogs who are generally easygoing may react instinctively to a cat on the run by attacking the smaller animal.

Introductions must be supervised and handled with planning, care and patience.

If you have a cat and are planning to bring in a dog, try to find an animal who is known to be accepting of cats. Shelters and rescue groups often know if an animal has successfully lived with a cat, or they will test to see how the dog behaves in the presence of one. (These "tester" cats are usually friendly, outgoing permanent residents, and they're just fine with their work of safely greeting new dogs.)

If you have a dog and are planning to bring in a cat, start working on your pet's obedience before you add the new animal. Your dog should be comfortable on a leash and be trained well enough to mind your requests for him to stay in either a "sit" or "down" position while on that leash.

For the cat's own comfort, he should be confined during the early stages of introduction to a small area (such as a second bathroom or guest bedroom), where he can feel safe while becoming acclimated to the sounds and smells of the dog. Be sure the room has everything he needs, and make sure he has frequent one-on-one visits with human family members.

After a couple of days with the cat sequestered, put the dog on leash and open the door to the cat's room. Allow the animals to see one another, and do not allow the dog to chase the cat, even in play. Use "sit-stay" or "down-stay" to keep the dog in place while the cat gets used to his calm presence. Don't force the cat to interact with the dog; if the cat wishes to view the dog from the darkest recesses underneath the bed, so be it. Reward the good behavior of both animals with treats and praise.

Keep the dog on leash for a couple of weeks in the cat's presence, and always make sure the cat has a way to escape from the dog, such as putting a baby gate across the door to the safe area. Build up the time the animals spend together, and continue to make the introductions rewarding, with more treats and praise.

When the dog isn't interested in bothering the cat and the cat feels secure enough to come out from under the bed, you can take off the leash and let them get on with their new lives together. How long it will take to get to this step will depend on the animals involved, and you must work at their pace.

It's not uncommon for dogs and cats to become friends and to enjoy each other's company. Take the time to manage your cat-dog introduction properly, and you could be setting up a friendship that will last for the rest of your pets' lives.

Q&A

Household fixes

keep cats happy

Q: A couple years ago we lost a wonderful young cat. He just disappeared and we never knew what happened to him. We've recently adopted a female tabby just over a year old, and we're going to keep her inside full-time for her safety. She seems to want to go out, though, and I suspect she was allowed to roam outside in her first home. How can we make her happy?

A: You don't have to open the door to the great outdoors to provide your cat with a more interesting life. In fact, by just looking at your home from a cat's point of view and adding a few environmental enrichments, your cat can be both safe and happy indoors. Some tips:

-- Think vertical. Cats love to climb, so give them the opportunity. Cat trees mounted floor-to-ceiling, wrapped with sisal rope and studded with platforms for perching, will give your cat the opportunity to look down on the rest of the world.

-- Add toys. The cat with the most toys wins. Every indoor cat should have toys for batting around, toys for chasing, toys for hiding in and toys for interactive play. And don't forget that some of those toys ought to have catnip in them, while others should have treats inside. And don't forget: Some of the most enjoyable toys for both people and cats are the interactive ones, such as a kitty "fishing" pole.

-- Provide rooms with views. No matter how big your house, your indoor cat will know every one of its sights and sounds within just a few days. Provide a little visual stimulation by putting a bird feeder outside a window fitted with a cat-sized ledge for comfortable viewing. You can also try a little Cat TV. A few companies offer DVDs for cats. Pop one of these in, and your cat can be entertained with a lively mix of feline-friendly images and sounds, including those of birds and rodents.

Finally, have you considered adding another cat? While an older cat who's set in his ways may not welcome company, a newly adopted young cat will likely adapt quickly to feline companionship, and a feline friendship will help ease the boredom and loneliness for them both when you're away from home. -- Dr. Marty Becker and Gina Spadafori

Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.

THE BUZZ

Dogs' social traits

rub off on owners

-- Dogs make us better people. An Australian study reported in USA Today showed that people with dogs were more likely to gain trust, meet new people and help out neighbors than did people without pets. The same article reported that a different study of 128 children in New Mexico found that pre-teens who help care for dogs have higher self-esteem and empathy than those who did not have pet care responsibilities.

-- Horses might be happier if their riders stood up in the saddle, according to an article on TheHorse.com. "Posting" -- rising up and down in the saddle as a horse trots -- puts less vertical force on a horse's back and causes less back extension than when the rider sits while the horse trots. The least stress comes when the rider never sits down in the saddle at all. While horses can become conditioned to having the rider sit during the trot, the article suggests that young horses or those with back problems would do better with a rider standing in the stirrups instead of sitting in the saddle.

-- In Bali, Indonesia, unchecked packs of feral dogs have led to a rabies outbreak, with 41 confirmed deaths in the human population and more suspected. The New York Times reports that the situation is so serious that the U.S. and Australia have issued travel warnings to their citizens, although so far, only Bali residents have been killed. The Balinese government and a nonprofit animal advocacy group are working to vaccinate 70 percent of the country's canine population, which accounts for about 400,000 dogs. -- Dr. Marty Becker and Mikkel Becker

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" and "The Dr. Oz Show" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of many best-selling pet-care books. Dr. Becker can also be found at Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker or on Twitter at DrMartyBecker.

pets

Sleep Tight

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | November 8th, 2010

Can you get a good night's sleep if you share your bedroom -- and your bed -- with pets? Yes, but it can be difficult to manage.

More than half of the people coming to the famous Mayo Clinic in Rochester, Minn., for help sleeping reported sharing their bedrooms -- and often their beds -- with pets. While banning the pets may be the only answer for some people, there are other options to try first that will solve the problems of many.

The tips can be summed up succinctly: Keep your pets clean, keep them lean and get them on your sleep cycle. With help from your family's veterinarian, chances are that you'll soon be enjoying sleep instead of counting sheep.

Dr. Peter Ihrke, a professor of veterinary dermatology at the University of California, Davis School of Veterinary Medicine, knows that a scratching pet is a major annoyance. He says the problem is often external parasites -- fleas and ticks -- as well as bacterial or yeast infections, or a wide variety of allergies, all of which need to be accurately diagnosed to be treated.

Some pets also are allergic to dust mites. Dr. Ihrke says the advice given by human allergists for mites is the same as his: Enclose the box springs, mattress and pillows, and wash bed linens frequently. "That goes for dog beds, too," he says. "If you can't wash it every week or so, toss it and get one you can wash."

While skin issues -- and the scratching that often accompanies them -- can effect pets of any age, pain-related problems more frequently torment older dogs and cats. Veterinary pain-management expert Dr. Robin Downing of Windsor, Colo., says the signs of pain can be subtle: a change of behavior, such as not being able to get comfortable in bed or struggling to get onto the bed at all.

Dr. Downing stresses that while arthritis may be inescapable as pets age, the pain that causes sleeplessness -- your pets' and your own -- can be addressed. "The top thing I tell clients is to get the extra weight off their pets. Without weight management, everything else we can do will be less effective."

She also recommends more secure footing, ramps and stairs to help pets onto furniture and beds, supplements that help with joint function and veterinary-prescribed pain-management medications -- all of which ease discomfort and help pets sleep.

Dr. Downing also notes that in older dogs, dementia can have similar symptoms as pain -- but fortunately, there's a medication that may help with that, too.

The final piece of the puzzle to help pets snooze when you do is getting them on the same sleep cycle, and that can actually be fun, says Dr. Gary Landsberg, a veterinary behaviorist in Thornhill, Ontario. When a pet sleeps all day, it's no surprise that the animal may want to play all night. Dr. Landsberg says exercising pets, both physically and mentally, will help them to settle down when you do.

Once medical problems have been ruled out or treated, Dr. Landsberg says pet owners can enjoy keeping their pets active. That means shared physical activity -- play, in other words -- but it also should include keeping cats and dogs busy when you're not home. There have never been more ways to accomplish this, with a wide selection of food-filled "puzzle toys" that will keep pets moving all day.

And when they nudge you in the night? The experts say if pets' medical, physical and mental needs have been addressed, you should ignore them, so pets don't get the idea that you'll play with them whenever they want.

What if none of these strategies work? Then somebody has to sleep on the couch. You or your pet? The choice is yours.

Q&A

More ideas to keep

older dogs rolling

Q: I have been reading and enjoying your columns for a long time now and always look forward to the next one. I especially enjoyed your column today on the challenges of aging in dogs, but I wish you had added information on some of the wonderful things that can be purchased for aging dogs, such as ramps to get into and out of the car, beds that can be heated, raised dishes, etc.

There are also strollers for dogs. My 12-year-old dog, Cassie, has arthritis in her elbows and shoulders. On our morning walks, she walks as far as she can, and then rides home in her doggie stroller. I've attached a picture so you can see how comfortable she is. Can you let people know there are more options for older pets?

A: You are absolutely right: There are lots of products that can help make the lives of older dogs more comfortable as they age. We love the ramps that help pets get onto beds and furniture more easily, as well as those that help give dogs a lift into and out of vehicles. Simple ramps can also help pets get up and down porch stairs, as can slings to help support weakened hind or front legs.

Not to mention, the beds! Heated beds, plush beds and beds with bolsters, leak-proof covers and cushions made of memory foam will make a long winter more bearable. For dogs whose footing isn't as secure, there are boots, tacky sprays and even stick-ons that go directly onto pads. And yes, as you note, strollers can help older pets enjoy a long walk, riding part-way or all the way, whichever they need to get by.

Your Cassie is one lucky dog, and we're so happy you shared her story with us and our readers. -- Dr. Marty Becker and Gina Spadafori

Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.

THE BUZZ

Managing ferals better

than trapping, killing

-- The Utah-based Best Friends Animal Society says that programs which manage feral cat colonies to reduce their numbers are more cost-effective than programs that kill the cats. The group estimates that there are 87 million unowned cats in the United States, and that trap-neuter-release programs would cost $7 billion nationwide vs. $16 billion to trap and kill the animals. The issue of how best to reduce the numbers of free-roaming cats is a contentious one, with concerns not only for the felines, but also for native birds and rodents they kill to survive.

-- White is a bad color for wind turbines, according to a recent study. White attracts insects, which in turn attract birds and bats that are too often killed by the blades. Scientists tested different colors to see if the problems could be minimized, including white, light gray, dark gray, purple, sky blue and red. The best choice for not attracting insects? Purple.

-- Want to live in a dog-friendly city? Dog Fancy magazine has released its list of the top cities for dogs and the people who love them, with Provincetown, Mass., at No. 1. The rest of the top 10: Carmel, Calif.; Madison, Wisc.; Benicia and Fort Bragg, Calif.; Lincoln City, Ore.; San Diego; Virginia Beach, Va.; Sioux Falls, S.D.; and Salem, Ore. -- Dr. Marty Becker and Mikkel Becker

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" and "The Dr. Oz Show" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of many best-selling pet-care books. Dr. Becker can also be found at Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker or on Twitter at DrMartyBecker.

pets

Hitting the Box

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | November 1st, 2010

When the weather turns colder and houses close up for warmth, every little thing starts to annoy us. Like the smell of the litter box, or (worse) the smell of a cat who's not using the litter box at all.

But don't blame the cat.

If your cat is hit-or-miss where the litter box is concerned, chances are the choices you've made factor into the problem. After all, your cat really isn't asking for anything more than you would when it comes to a bathroom. All that's required for most cats is that the litter box be clean, quiet and offer no surprises.

That sounds simple, but the failure to use a litter box is the top behavior complaint of cat lovers, sending countless cats to shelters every year. Before you even consider such a drastic step, you need to try to work things out with your cat if you have a litter box problem.

The first step in solving such a problem is to make sure it's not a medical condition -- and that means a trip to your veterinarian for a complete workup. Urinary-tract infections and diseases such as diabetes make consistent litter box use impossible for even the most well-intentioned cat. You cannot hope to get your cat using the box again until any health issues have been resolved.

If your cat checks out fine, you need to make sure that everything about the box is to your cat's liking. The second rule of solving a litter box problem: If the cat isn't happy, no one will be happy. Here's what to look for:

-- Cleanliness. Cats are fastidious animals, and if the litter box is dirty, they look elsewhere for a place to go. Clean the box frequently -- twice a day at least -- and make sure it's completely scrubbed clean and aired out on a weekly basis. Having an additional litter box may help, too. (Multiple litter boxes are recommended for multicat households, since many cats simply will not share.)

-- Box type and filler. Many choices people make to suit their own tastes conflict with the cat's sense of what's agreeable. A covered box may seem more pleasing to you, but your cat may think it's pretty rank inside, or scary. Likewise, scented litters may make you think the box smells fine, but your cat may disagree -- not only is the box dirty, he reasons, but it also has this extra "clean" odor he can't abide. Start with the basics: a large box with unscented clumping-style litter.

-- Location. Your cat's box should be away from his food and water, in a place he can get to easily and feel safe in. Consider a location from a cat's point of view: Choose a quiet spot where he can see what's coming at him. A cat doesn't want any surprises while he's in the box.

Make the area where your cat has had mistakes less attractive by cleaning it thoroughly with a pet-odor neutralizer (available from pet-supply retailers). Discourage re-use by covering the area with foil, plastic sheeting or plastic carpet runners with the points up.

If changing things around doesn't clear up the problem in a healthy cat, you may need to retrain him by keeping your pet in a small area, such as a guest bathroom, for a couple of weeks.

Make sure the area you choose has no good options besides the litter box -- no carpet, no pile of dirty laundry. Block off the bathtub or keep an inch of water in it to discourage its use as a place to go. After your cat is reliably using the litter box, let him slowly expand his territory again. As long as you keep up your end of the bargain and keep the litter box clean and safe, you have a good chance the good behavior will become permanent.

If you just can't seem to get the problem resolved, ask your veterinarian for a referral to a veterinary behaviorist. These veterinarians are skilled in behavioral problem-solving and are able to prescribe medications that may make the difference during the retraining period.

Q&A

Genetic link to chewing

when it comes to cats

Q: My cat chews on plastic garbage bags. She used to chew on sweaters as well, but has gotten over that. What causes this? Can I add something to her food to make her stop? -- via e-mail

A: Dogs will chew on almost anything, especially when they're puppies. Destructive chewing is a common behavior complaint made by people with dogs, but there's a similar problem in some cats, too.

It's called "wool sucking," because wool sweaters, blankets, and more seem to be the most attractive to cats who have this behavior. (As you've found out, some wool-sucking cats, in fact, prefer plastic materials, such as those found in a common plastic grocery bag.) The chewing isn't quite like a dog's totally destructive gnaw-it-up, either: Wool-sucking cats typically work the same spot on a piece of cloth, sucking and chewing on that one area and even returning to it if distracted.

Some have attributed this behavior to a kitten's being weaned too early, or to the taste of lanolin in wool cloth. In fact, the behavior most likely has a hereditary component, since it's most common in the so-called Oriental breeds such as Siamese or their mixes.

In some cases, more roughage in the diet (such a pureed pumpkin) can reduce a cat's desire to destroy wool clothing and other household items. The best advice, though, is to put away what you don't want the wool-sucker to destroy, and be sure your cat gets enough exercise -- the more interactive play the better -- to help reduce nervous energy.

As with any problem behavior, though, a thorough check for health problems is the first step toward resolution. If you have a wool-chewer, start with a call to your veterinarian. -- Dr. Marty Becker

Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.

THE BUZZ

Large-animal vets

in short supply

-- The shortage of large-animal veterinarians has become a critical matter of concern for the health of animals and people alike. Nearly 30 percent of veterinarians working for the U.S. government, including those at the Food Safety and Inspection Service, are eligible to retire in three years, and few young veterinarians are interested in filling these positions. The American Veterinary Medical Association estimates that more than 1,300 counties nationwide are without a single farm vet. Veterinarians who tend to large animals typically earn less than their companion animal colleagues -- $57,745 on average per year compared to $64,744 -– and often face longer hours, less time off and more difficult working conditions.

-- Pacemaker implants are increasing in veterinary medicine. According to The Associated Press, the number of dogs receiving pacemakers has increased from 100 to 200 a year up to the current level of 300 to 500 per year, with about 200 veterinary cardiologists able to handle the procedure. Pacemakers find their way to pets when the makers of these medical devices get rid of units no longer considered suitable for people because the battery life has declined -- a problem less worrisome in pets, who have shorter life spans than people. New pacemakers cost $5,000 to $10,000, but the ones that are made available to veterinarians for implanting in dogs are usually sold for around $500.

-- Labradors trained in explosives detection are in high demand in Afghanistan, where U.S. Marines have asked for more than double the number of bomb-sniffing dogs they have now, to a total of 650. According to USA Today, as much as $34 million will be spent recruiting, training and caring for the dogs through 2012. Trainers look at around 400 prospects a year, select about half of those for training, and typically end up with 100 dogs to go through the entire training program to identify the elements of homemade bombs. -- Dr. Marty Becker and Mikkel Becker

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" and "The Dr. Oz Show" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of many best-selling pet-care books. Dr. Becker can also be found at Facebook.com/DrMartyBecker or on Twitter at DrMartyBecker.

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