pets

Saying Goodbye

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | March 8th, 2010

Universal Press Syndicate

It's the question every pet lover dreads, the one for which there's often no easy answer: "When is the right time to say goodbye?"

Choosing to end a pet's life is the hardest decision we make when it comes to our pets, and we can tell you from decades of experience that it's a decision that never gets any easier. Your veterinarian will offer you advice and support, and friends and family can offer you sympathy, but no one can make the decision for you. When you live with an elderly or terminally ill pet, you look in your pet's eyes every morning and wonder if you're doing what's best.

Everyone makes the decision a little differently. Some pet lovers do not wait until their pet's discomfort becomes chronic, untreatable pain, and they choose euthanasia much sooner than others would. Some owners use an animal's appetite as the guide -- when an old or ill animal cannot be tempted into eating, they reason, he has lost most interest in life. And some owners wait until there's no doubt the time is at hand -- and later wonder if they delayed a bit too long.

There's no absolute rule, and every method for deciding is right for some pets and some owners at some times. You do the best you can, and then you try to put the decision behind you and deal with the grief.

The incredible advances in veterinary medicine in the past couple of decades have made the decisions even more difficult for many people. Not too long ago, the best you could do for a seriously ill pet was to make her comfortable until that wasn't possible anymore. Nowadays, nearly every advantage of human medicine -- from chemotherapy to pacemakers to advanced pain relief -- is available to our pets.

But the addition of high-level care shouldn't change much when it comes to easing suffering: If you can have a realistic expectation that a course of treatment will improve your pet's life -- rather than simply prolong it -- then those options should be considered. But you must also ask yourself: Am I doing right by my pet, or am I just holding on because I can't bear to say goodbye?

If it's the latter, you know what decision you have to make.

Many people are surprised at the powerful emotions that erupt after a pet's death, and they can be embarrassed by their grief. Often, we don't realize we're grieving not only for the pet we loved, but also for the special time the animal represented and the ties to other people in our lives. The death of a cat who was a gift as a kitten from a friend who has died, for example, may trigger bittersweet memories of another love lost.

Taking care of yourself is important when dealing with pet loss. Some people -- the "It's just a pet" crowd -- won't understand the loss and may shrug off grief over a pet's death as foolish. I find that the company of other animal lovers is very important. Seek them out to share your feelings, and don't be shy about getting professional help to get you through a difficult time.

Choosing to end a pet's suffering is a final act of love and nothing less. Knowing that your decisions are guided by that love is what helps us all through the sad and lonely time of losing a cherished animal companion.

SIDEBAR

Finding help when you need it

You're not alone in losing a pet, and many resources are out there to help you cope with your emotions during a difficult time. Some veterinary schools offer pet-loss support lines staffed by volunteer veterinary students, and the Web site PetHobbyist.com offers a pet-loss chat every night of the year, which is staffed with volunteer moderators and attended by other pet lovers.

Q&A

Halter problems? Try a harness

Q: I've heard that head halters can cause serious injuries if used incorrectly. A too-abrupt tug could jerk a dog's head, causing neck or spinal injuries, couldn't it? -- S.T., via e-mail

A: Anything's possible, which is why I don't recommend using a head halter with one of those long, reel-type leashes. The force of a running dog hitting the end of a 30-foot line does have the potential to cause injury.

In truth, just about every piece of canine equipment has the potential for problems if used incorrectly. Slip-chain collars can choke a dog or injure his neck. Breakaway collars, designed to release a dog who's caught on something, can result in a dog being off-leash when it's least safe, such as next to a busy street. And head halters can jerk a dog's head around.

Dogs who don't know how to walk nicely on leash end up not being walked at all -- and that can contribute to obesity and behavior problems. The same people who came up with the head halter have more recently come up with a product I like much, much better: the front-clip harness, which is called the Easy Walk. There are a few different ones on the market now, and they all work on the same theory: When the leash is clipped to the front of the harness (as opposed to the top center of the back), a dog's own forward momentum is used to keep him from pulling.

I've been recommending this product for a couple of years now because it really works. It's especially wonderful for people who run with their dogs and for making it possible for supervised children to walk even a big dog.

Mind you, it doesn't train your dog not to pull on the leash. If you switch back to a collar, your dog will pull again. It's a management tool, and a great one.

I have never liked head halters. They make even nice dogs look as if they're wearing muzzles to keep from biting someone. And some dogs don't like them, especially at first. But everyone I've recommended a front-clip harness to has come back raving about it. Again: It really works.

The Easy Walk is available from pet retailers or from Premier (www.premier.com).

If you don't know what's right for your dog or how to use it, find a trainer who can help you choose the appropriate equipment and show you how it works. Every piece of training equipment is right for some dogs, but no single item is right for all. And no piece of training equipment is safe or effective unless it's fitted and used properly. -- Gina Spadafori

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books.

On PetConnection.com there's more information on pets and their care, reviews of products, books and "dog cars." Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or visiting PetConnection.com.

PET BUZZ

Chip cancer scare unwarranted

-- Veterinary experts say there is no evidence that cancer is a problem in microchipped pets. More than 14 million-plus microchips have been implanted with only four cases in question.

-- The ASPCA can solve crimes against animals with its mobile forensics unit. It is equipped with X-ray machines, computers, examination tables, cameras and video equipment for documenting evidence, and will travel when requested by local officials to wherever there are multiple cases of abuse or cruelty. Those most often will be dog-fighting operations, puppy mills or animal-hoarding situations.

-- Elephants are the largest land animals, yet these goliaths move quickly when they hear the buzz of a bee swarm, reports LiveScience.com. Their fear could be used to protect them from deadly conflicts between man and beast by strategically placing beehives (or even recordings of them) as an invisible fence of sorts.

-- Aging cats can develop a feline form of Alzheimer's disease, a new study reveals. Some 28 percent of pet cats aged 11 to 14 years develop at least one age-related behavior problem, and this increases to more than 50 percent for cats over the age of 15. Experts suggest that good diet, mental stimulation and companionship can reduce the risk of dementia in both humans and cats.

-- Mister Ed, the talking horse of the 1960s television show, is buried under a wild cherry tree near Tulsa, Okla. The palomino lived to the ripe old age of 33. -- Dr. Marty Becker

ON GOOD BEHAVIOR

Praise for proper placement

If you are house-training your puppy, recognize the behaviors that come right before your puppy eliminates. When you see your puppy begin to circle and sniff, or see his tail up in a certain way, quickly interrupt the moment with a loud and sharp-sounding, "Ah, Ah, Ah!"

When your puppy looks up, clap your hands and say in a friendly, excited tone, "Good puppy -- let's go," as you lead him outdoors to the place you have chosen as the puppy potty. Then look at the sky and be still like a tree. Your puppy needs to go, so it's only a matter of time.

When the deed is done, crouch down with open arms, praise your puppy, and invite him to a big heap of loving.

(Animal behavior experts Susan and Dr. Rolan Tripp are the authors of "On Good Behavior." For more information, visit their Web site at AnimalBehavior.net.)

PET TIP

Easy cleanups for messy birds

Cleaning isn't just about neatness -- it's also about health. Clean, fresh food and water are essential to pet birds, and so is keeping their environment as free as possible of bacteria, fungus and molds, all of which can lead to disease.

You can keep things relatively neat with a few supplies kept close to the cage and used on a consistent basis. Among them:

-- Newspapers. Bird lovers go through a lot of newspapers. Put all the glossy inserts in the recycling bin, and stack the rest for use in the cage tray and under play areas.

-- Cloth towels. Worn bath towels are great for protecting clothing from bird poop -- just drape a towel over your shoulders.

-- Spray bottle with cleaning solution. Keep this near the cage, along with towels. Since birds are sensitive to fumes, skip the ammonia, bleach, pine solutions or any other strong cleaners. Simple soap and water are fine for everyday touchups, or you can try Poop-Off, a product developed just for bird cleanup.

-- Handheld vacuum. Great for snarfing up food pellets and feathers.

-- Mats for underneath the cage. The heavy, clear plastic mats intended for underneath desk chairs and sold at office-supply stores keep most of the gunk off the floor. Newspapers catch the rest.

-- Trash bin. Again, right by the cage. Every time you change the cage liner, put the old newspapers in the trash.

A few minutes spent cleaning a couple of times a day keeps things in good order and makes the weekly cage scrubbing easier to accomplish. Clean cage papers daily, at a minimum, and clean everything else as soon as the mess hits. -- Gina Spadafori

PETS BY THE NUMBERS

Veterinary specialists abound

The United States has almost 85,000 veterinarians, the majority of whom (56,000) are in private practice. Among those veterinarians (those not in the chart treat a variety of other kinds of animals, such as exotics, so numbers won't total 100):

Treat companion animals 76 percent

Treat horses 6 percent

Treat food animals 9 percent

Source: American Veterinary Medical Association

PETS ON THE WEB

No need for war with wildlife

As we've grown out from the cities and developed more and more land for housing, it's no surprise that conflicts between humans and native wildlife are a big problem.

Conflicts can be kept to a minimum by blocking off attics, chimneys and crawl spaces to prevent wildlife from setting up housekeeping, and by keeping garbage cans and other food sources securely sealed.

The Humane Society of the United States has an excellent collection of articles on the group's Web site (www.humanesociety.org/animals/wild_neighbors) that offers more suggestions on living peacefully with urban wildlife. From coyotes to skunks to deer, the site provides information that will minimize the potential for nuisance. The site offers advice on products that can help discourage animals, along with case studies of nonlethal methods of dealing with conflicts. -- Gina Spadafori

Pet Connection is produced by a team of team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper, by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

pets

No Littering!

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | March 1st, 2010

We're on the verge of kitten season now, which means we'll soon be getting questions about feline pregnancy from people who often had no idea they'd be midwife to pets who are often not much more than kittens themselves.

Typical questions include: How long does a cat's pregnancy last? (On average, 66 days.) Do I need to help my pregnant cat with delivery? (Yes, usually by leaving her alone.) How do I know if she's close to delivering? (Watch for enlarged nipples and the secretion of a tiny amount of milk.)

The question we're asked least often is the most important of all: How soon after my cat gives birth can she be spayed? (As soon as the babies are weaned -- the sooner the better!)

Studies show that 80 percent of the cats and dogs in the United States and Canada are spayed or neutered. If your cat is not among them, here are a few facts to consider:

-- A neutered tomcat is less likely to roam, less likely to fight (and less likely to cost you money to patch him up), and less likely to spray urine to mark his territory. He's more likely to live longer, because the cat who's looking for a mate is really looking for trouble. If a car doesn't get him, infectious disease (spread by fighting or mating) or cancer may.

-- A spayed female is a more attentive and loving pet, because her energy isn't constantly directed toward finding a mate. (Cats are in heat nearly all the time until they become pregnant.) If you spay your cat, you protect her from some cancers, infections and from sexually transmitted infectious diseases.

"Spaying" and "neutering" are the everyday terms for the surgical sterilization of a pet. Neutering -- or altering -- is also used to describe both procedures. The technical terms for the two operations are "ovariohysterectomy," for the female, and "castration," for the male -- which pretty much explains why "spaying" and "neutering" are the preferred terms.

Although these procedures are common, many people don't understand what's involved. Spaying is the removal of the female's entire reproductive system: The uterus, fallopian tubes and ovaries are taken out through an incision in the abdomen. Some veterinarians use stitches that have to be removed in about 10 days' time, while others use those that are absorbed into the body. Recovery is fast, taking just a few days, during which you should limit your cat's activities -- no jumping or boisterous play.

In neutering, the cat's testicles are removed through incisions in the scrotum, the pouch holding the testicles. These incisions are generally left unstitched in this relatively minor procedure. Post-operative care normally involves keeping the incisions clean and dry. Some veterinarians recommend keeping the cat inside (if he is not already an indoor pet) and using shredded newspaper in place of litter until the incisions close, which usually happens within three to five days.

Most of the people who write us about pregnant cats are dealing with "oops" litters, the result of not getting their cat to the veterinarian in time. We sure hope they'll be calling to schedule an appointment for neutering as soon as those babies are weaned.

If you're allowing your cat to have "just one litter" because you want a kitten, please adopt a kitten instead. You'll find plenty to choose from at any shelter or rescue group. Many of them won't find homes, so please help in any way you can.

Q&A

Cats can stay if baby on way

Q: I'm getting contradictory information on my cats now that we're expecting our first child. And it all seems credible. My doctor says I can keep my cats, if I'm careful, and if my boyfriend handles the litter box. But I've seen other doctors who disagree and also caution that cats hate babies and will kill them, if they can, out of spite.

Cat Web sites say keep the cat, but I'm not sure they have my baby's interest as top priority. I'm not sure you do, either, but I'll ask anyway. I want to keep my cats, after all. -- T.I., via e-mail

A: Your own physician is up on the current thinking in this area. In fact, you don't need to find a new home for your pet when a baby's on the way, no matter what well-meaning relatives and friends or anonymous Internet advisers may say to the contrary. Cats do not maliciously smother or suck the breath out of babies, and the litter box risk can indeed be managed.

The myth that cats have it in for babies probably came from their natural curiosity to investigate a new addition to the family, coupled with the tragedy of what's commonly known as crib death. We can easily understand how, in generations past, people may have seen a cat in the crib -- perhaps sniffing at a baby's milk-scented breath -- and later found a dead child and then tried to find an explanation for the loss by linking the two events together.

We now know there's no connection. But common sense still dictates that no animal be left unattended with an infant or small child. And, of course, before the baby arrives, safety dictates that someone other than the expectant mom clean out that litter box to reduce the risk of birth defects caused by the parasites that may be in the cat's feces.

As our Dr. Marty Becker says: Get rid of the risk, and keep the pet. It's good advice, as is taking your cats to their doctor to make sure their own health is tip-top to further protect your human family. -- Gina Spadafori

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" and "The Dr. Oz Show" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books.

On PetConnection.com there's more information on pets and their care, reviews of products, books and more. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

PET BUZZ

Vaccine offers hope for cancer

-- Dogs with cancerous growths in their mouths have the chance at an increased life expectancy after tumor removal with the help of a new therapeutic canine melanoma vaccine, Oncept. The vaccine contains a substance produced by human DNA that is similar enough to dog's genetic material that it targets canine melanoma cells, but is different enough to be considered foreign by the dog's immune system, resulting in a potent immune response against canine melanoma cells. Dogs with stage II or III melanoma typically survive six months or less after tumor removal, but dogs vaccinated with Oncept had a longer survival time than those not vaccinated, according to DVM360.com.

-- Cats should be hissing at the news that dog owners spend an average of $219 on veterinary visits each year, while cat owners spend an annual average of $179. So says the American Pet Products Association.

-- Sperm are good team players in animals who mate with several males in quick succession. Sperm will make a collaborative push with their relatives for the egg, sometimes with hundreds of sperm linking to each other in an effort to cut out the competition. The strategy has risks, as the linking can set off a chemical reaction that can leave an individual sperm infertile, but the success of one is worth the loss of some. Previously, researchers assumed sperm linked with their closest neighbors, but Harvard University found that even sperm from two brothers would not link, but would link up only when from the same male.

-- People who are overweight are more likely to have overweight dogs, although fat cats don't correlate with an increased weight of an owner, according to a study published in Public Health Nutrition. More than half of all of pets in the United States are overweight. -- Dr. Marty Becker and Mikkel Becker Shannon

THE SCOOP

Make tracks to adopt a retired racer

Greyhound racing is a dying sport, and as more tracks close for good, more former racers are looking for their forever homes. Should yours be one of them?

Do you want a dog who is quiet and clean in the house, takes long, peaceful naps on the sofa, gazes adoringly into your eyes but never pesters you to throw the ball, and is always up for a walk or a run? If that describes you, there's a good chance you'll be happy with a greyhound.

Despite their image as driven athletes, greyhounds are in fact what their owners commonly call "40 mile-an-hour couch potatoes," and while the speeds may vary, the general concept is dead on. Retired racing greyhounds make wonderful pets and require much less exercise than you might expect. Regular walks and two or three good runs in a safe area each week should keep your sleek hound happy and healthy.

Weighing in between 60 and 85 pounds, greyhounds have long legs and necks that make them seem larger than they are. Their short coats mean grooming needs are minimal: A quick swipe every other day with a "hound glove," a two-sided combination of glove and brush, is perfect for removing dead hair and minimizing shedding.

Renowned for their gentle temperaments, greyhounds are wonderful family dogs. As with any of the quick-reacting "sighthound" breeds, there could be problems with cats and small dogs, so be careful if you have other pets. Greyhounds are usually good with other dogs and with children.

Looking for more greyhound tips and information? Be sure to visit www.adopt-a-greyhound.org. -- Christie Keith

BY THE NUMBERS

What sends pets to the vet

Veterinary Pet Insurance (VPI) has released its list of the top medical conditions for which claims were submitted last year for dogs and cats. VPI received more than a million claims in 2009.

The most common ailment in dogs? Ear infection, coming in at nearly 68,000 claims and an average cost of $100 per visit. And in cats? Lower urinary tract disease, with a total of 3,700 claims at an average cost of $260 per visit. Here's the complete list:

Top conditions in dogs

1. Ear infection

2. Skin allergy

3. Skin infection, or hot spots

4. Gastritis, or vomiting

5. Enteritis, or diarrhea

Top conditions in cats

1. Lower urinary tract disease

2. Gastritis, or vomiting

3. Chronic renal failure

4. Hyperthyroidism

5. Diabetes

PET Rx

'Blocked' cats need vet's help

In cats, obstipation is described as the inability to defecate, a very painful and serious condition that demands prompt veterinary attention. The causes of this backup are not well-understood, but they result in intestines that become dilated and unable to push stools out of the body normally.

If your cat is straining or crying out while trying to defecate, or if you notice an absence of feces in the litter box, your pet has a potentially serious problem. Oddly, this blockage may initially appear as diarrhea because your cat's body, so irritated by the retained feces, may generate lots of watery fluid or mucus to try to cope. This discharge may seem like "ordinary" loose stools when passed.

Any changes in your cat's litter-box habits need to be investigated by your veterinarian, the sooner the better, and obstipation is no exception. -- Dr. Marty Becker

Pet Connection is produced by a team of team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper, by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

pets

Run for a Rabbit

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | February 22nd, 2010

Looking for a friendly, funny, quiet, clean, inexpensive and even eco-friendly pet? What you're looking for ... is a rabbit.

I have long despaired at the reaction most pet lovers have to that suggestion. In the minds of many, if not most, rabbits are a pet distantly remembered from childhood, a lonely animal kept outside in small and often filthy elevated "hutch." A starter pet for children, and certainly not suited for life outside a cage, most believe.

That impression is wrong. While rabbits remain good pets for respectful older children -- the animals are too fragile for young ones -- they're really better suited to life indoors with a grown-up. So-called "house-rabbits" bloom with proper care and gentle attention, providing endless amounts of quiet companionship punctuated by short periods of delightful silliness.

And while dogs and rabbits aren't always the best combination, cats and rabbits usually get along famously -- albeit with different litter boxes.

Yes, litter boxes. Because while rabbits usually aren't perfect about their use -- a pellet here and there will testify to that, but it's easily cleaned up -- they can and do use a box for most of their messes.

Ready to go rabbit? Shelters and rescue groups always have a great selection and should be the place to shop for a bunny. Better yet, get two: Rabbits love the company and can often be adopted in pairs already bonded.

Visit the site of the House Rabbit Society (rabbit.org) for the best information on caring for these pets. Here's a cheat sheet to get you started:

-- Housing. Your rabbit will need a home base of a small pen or large cage with food, water, toys and a litter box. Use a plain cat box filled with a shallow layer of recycled paper or wood pellets for the box, covered with a layer of fresh grass hay. You don't scoop a rabbit box -- you change it completely, every day. (The ingredients you toss are great for your compost pile, making rabbits among the greenest of pets.)

Because some rabbits can be chewers, you'll want to make sure any rabbit-friendly area has electrical cords tucked away and to deny access to the legs of nice furniture and the corners of good carpets when it's time for your rabbit to roam.

-- Nutrition. Fresh water needs to be available at all times. While commercial pellets are fine, it's just as easy and often less expensive to feed your rabbit yourself. Grass hay (cheaper by the bale if you have a dry space to store it in) should always be available, complemented by an array of green vegetables, from broccoli to kale to mustard greens to carrots with their tops on. For treats, bunnies love little bits of fruits and root vegetables. Think of your rabbit as a "precycler" -- veggie trimmings from your meals can be fed to your rabbit.

-- Health care. Get your rabbit spayed or neutered. In addition to keeping your rabbit from reproducing, you'll have a better pet. Unaltered rabbits can have behavior problems such as aggression and urine-spraying. Your rabbit will need a wellness check, just as a cat or dog would, and a good rabbit vet will help you catch little health problems before they become big ones.

-- Exercise and play. Your rabbit needs a lot of time outside the pen or cage, and many do well with an open-door policy that lets them choose when to be in or out of their cages or pens. Protected outdoor space and even walks with a harness and leash are also good, but don't leave your rabbit unattended. Rabbits can be scared literally to death by predators.

Rabbits love toys. Cat toys, dog toys, hard-plastic baby toys and even the cardboard tubes from inside toilet paper and paper towel rolls are fun for rabbits. Cardboard boxes stuffed with hay and treats are also fun for bunnies. The limit is not budgetary, but imaginary!

What are you waiting for? A wonderful pet is waiting for you, so hop to it!

Q&A

Front-clip harness makes walking easy

Q: My New Year's resolution was to walk every day. Since our dog has added a few extra pounds in middle age, too, I wanted to take her along. Problem is, she is incredibly strong and we never really trained her not to pull on the leash. It's the only problem we have, so I don't want to take a training course. A private trainer seems like overkill. Suggestions? -- O.R., via e-mail.

A: Get a front-clip harness. These relatively new walking tools use the dog's own forward motion to correct pulling, and they're very effective at ending the behavior. And many dogs find front-clip harnesses easier to adjust to than the more common head halters (which I personally think look too ugly to use, in any case).

Front-clip harnesses have a ring in the front where the leash attaches, so you get the same turning effect as the head halter. The pressure is on the shoulders, not the nose, so many dogs find it less objectionable. Trainers who use both say the front-clip harness rarely evokes the "you're not putting that thing on me" response that greets the introduction of a head halter. While resistance to head halters can be overcome with patience and praise, the front-clip harness is pretty much useful right out of the box.

A few companies make a version of the front-clip harness. The one I'm using with my retriever puppy now is the Easy Walk by Premier. Go to www.premier.com for information on proper fitting and use.

If you still have problems after you get a front-clip harness, please reconsider having a trainer come to the house. A couple of targeted sessions with a good dog trainer can make a world of difference in the relationship you have with your pet. The Association of Pet Dog Trainers maintains a list of members on its Web site, www.apdt.com. -- Gina Spadafori

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" and "The Dr. Oz Show" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books.

On PetConnection.com there's more information on pets and their care, reviews of products, books and more. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

THE BUZZ

Cropping, docking still commonly done

-- Of the more than 150 breeds recognized by the American Kennel Club, 13 commonly get ear crops, 48 have docked tails, and 11 have both cropping and docking. Ear crops seem more likely to disappear as a common practice sooner, as fewer pet owners choose to have their puppies' ears sliced into an upright posture, and fewer veterinarians will perform the procedure. The American Veterinary Medical Association opposes ear cropping and tail docking when done solely for cosmetic purposes and has encouraged the elimination of these procedures from breed standards.

-- The average price for hay is $3 to $6 per bale, according a poll on www.thehorse.com. Only 10 percent of respondents were paying less than $3 per bale, while 21 percent paid $6 to $9 per bale, and 8 percent paid more than $11 per bale. A bale of hay commonly lasts about two to four days per horse.

-- Rather than using drugs to sedate a cat for minor veterinary procedures, a new process called "clipnosis" may be used to calm and immobilize the animal. The technique places clips along the back of a cat's neck, mimicking the way a kitten is carried by the scruff by a mother cat. Clipnosis has not yet been widely recognized as a safe and practical method of immobilization, but it may be growing in popularity with a recent study. The trial on 18 cats who were clipped four different times over a period of months found that the animals were not stressed, and some even purred while "clipped." None of the animals displayed signs of pain or stress during the process. The more the animals were clipped, the more tolerant they became of the process. One caveat: The procedure was not effective on cats who were already excited or agitated.

-- Women make up 77 percent of graduating veterinarians. Family friendly hours and the wide availability of part-time or fill-in work are among the reasons why the profession is appealing, according to DVM360.com. -- Dr. Marty Becker and Mikkel Becker Shannon

PET TIP

Cheap, effective cure for a skunked dog

Over the years, I have come to believe that spring is close when I get my first frantic request for "that skunk remedy."

As reported in the Chicago Tribune several years ago, a chemist by the name of Paul Krebaum discovered what turns out to be the hands-down best solution for eliminating odor on dogs who've been skunked. And yes, it really works.

Here's the formula: Take 1 quart of 3 percent hydrogen peroxide, 1/4 cup of baking soda and 1 teaspoon of liquid soap, such as Ivory. Mix and immediately apply to the stinky pet. Then rinse thoroughly with tap water. For a big dog, such as a Labrador, you might double the recipe to improve coverage. Common sense dictates keeping the mix out of sensitive areas like the eyes and ears.

Obviously, no one wants to take the time to run to the store when you have a stinky dog, so buy the ingredients now and keep them on hand. But remember -- don't mix them until seconds before application.

Hydrogen peroxide is a good thing to have around anyway, since it induces vomiting in a dog or puppy who might have eaten something toxic. Be sure to replace your bottle at least once a year, though, because the stuff seems to lose its kick over time. -- Gina Spadafori

BY THE NUMBERS

The friendliest cat cities

The CATalyst Council (catalystcouncil.org) has come out with a list of the top 10 cat-friendly cities. The areas were ranked by the popularity of cats in each city, the level of veterinary care, the prevalence of microchipping for ID, and the "cat-friendliness" of local ordinances. The winners:

1. Tampa

2. Phoenix

3. San Francisco

4. Portland

5. Denver

6. Boston

7. Seattle

8. San Diego

9. Atlanta

10. Minneapolis

THE SCOOP

Another carmaker going to the dogs

Since the PetConnection also owns the DogCars.com Web site, we're well aware of how many people consider their pets when choosing a vehicle. But it's great to see car companies realizing this, too.

Both Honda and Toyota have special-edition models (the Element and the Venza, respectively) with dog-friendly features.

But with a series of new ads, Subaru is aiming to be the new big dog on the block. In a series of ads that debuted Super Bowl weekend, the automaker promoted the Subaru Forester under the tagline: "Dog tested. Dog approved." The clever spots show dogs driving the vehicles, and even parallel parking -- pretty funny stuff.

Subaru's interest in the dog-owning demographic isn't new: In 2008, the company promoted its vehicles in ads that asked, "Without dogs, how would you get rid of that new-car smell?" -- Gina Spadafori

Pet Connection is produced by a team of team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper, by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

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