We're on the verge of kitten season now, which means we'll soon be getting questions about feline pregnancy from people who often had no idea they'd be midwife to pets who are often not much more than kittens themselves.

Typical questions include: How long does a cat's pregnancy last? (On average, 66 days.) Do I need to help my pregnant cat with delivery? (Yes, usually by leaving her alone.) How do I know if she's close to delivering? (Watch for enlarged nipples and the secretion of a tiny amount of milk.)

The question we're asked least often is the most important of all: How soon after my cat gives birth can she be spayed? (As soon as the babies are weaned -- the sooner the better!)

Studies show that 80 percent of the cats and dogs in the United States and Canada are spayed or neutered. If your cat is not among them, here are a few facts to consider:

-- A neutered tomcat is less likely to roam, less likely to fight (and less likely to cost you money to patch him up), and less likely to spray urine to mark his territory. He's more likely to live longer, because the cat who's looking for a mate is really looking for trouble. If a car doesn't get him, infectious disease (spread by fighting or mating) or cancer may.

-- A spayed female is a more attentive and loving pet, because her energy isn't constantly directed toward finding a mate. (Cats are in heat nearly all the time until they become pregnant.) If you spay your cat, you protect her from some cancers, infections and from sexually transmitted infectious diseases.

"Spaying" and "neutering" are the everyday terms for the surgical sterilization of a pet. Neutering -- or altering -- is also used to describe both procedures. The technical terms for the two operations are "ovariohysterectomy," for the female, and "castration," for the male -- which pretty much explains why "spaying" and "neutering" are the preferred terms.

Although these procedures are common, many people don't understand what's involved. Spaying is the removal of the female's entire reproductive system: The uterus, fallopian tubes and ovaries are taken out through an incision in the abdomen. Some veterinarians use stitches that have to be removed in about 10 days' time, while others use those that are absorbed into the body. Recovery is fast, taking just a few days, during which you should limit your cat's activities -- no jumping or boisterous play.

In neutering, the cat's testicles are removed through incisions in the scrotum, the pouch holding the testicles. These incisions are generally left unstitched in this relatively minor procedure. Post-operative care normally involves keeping the incisions clean and dry. Some veterinarians recommend keeping the cat inside (if he is not already an indoor pet) and using shredded newspaper in place of litter until the incisions close, which usually happens within three to five days.

Most of the people who write us about pregnant cats are dealing with "oops" litters, the result of not getting their cat to the veterinarian in time. We sure hope they'll be calling to schedule an appointment for neutering as soon as those babies are weaned.

If you're allowing your cat to have "just one litter" because you want a kitten, please adopt a kitten instead. You'll find plenty to choose from at any shelter or rescue group. Many of them won't find homes, so please help in any way you can.

Q&A

Cats can stay if baby on way

Q: I'm getting contradictory information on my cats now that we're expecting our first child. And it all seems credible. My doctor says I can keep my cats, if I'm careful, and if my boyfriend handles the litter box. But I've seen other doctors who disagree and also caution that cats hate babies and will kill them, if they can, out of spite.

Cat Web sites say keep the cat, but I'm not sure they have my baby's interest as top priority. I'm not sure you do, either, but I'll ask anyway. I want to keep my cats, after all. -- T.I., via e-mail

A: Your own physician is up on the current thinking in this area. In fact, you don't need to find a new home for your pet when a baby's on the way, no matter what well-meaning relatives and friends or anonymous Internet advisers may say to the contrary. Cats do not maliciously smother or suck the breath out of babies, and the litter box risk can indeed be managed.

The myth that cats have it in for babies probably came from their natural curiosity to investigate a new addition to the family, coupled with the tragedy of what's commonly known as crib death. We can easily understand how, in generations past, people may have seen a cat in the crib -- perhaps sniffing at a baby's milk-scented breath -- and later found a dead child and then tried to find an explanation for the loss by linking the two events together.

We now know there's no connection. But common sense still dictates that no animal be left unattended with an infant or small child. And, of course, before the baby arrives, safety dictates that someone other than the expectant mom clean out that litter box to reduce the risk of birth defects caused by the parasites that may be in the cat's feces.

As our Dr. Marty Becker says: Get rid of the risk, and keep the pet. It's good advice, as is taking your cats to their doctor to make sure their own health is tip-top to further protect your human family. -- Gina Spadafori

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" and "The Dr. Oz Show" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books.

On PetConnection.com there's more information on pets and their care, reviews of products, books and more. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

PET BUZZ

Vaccine offers hope for cancer

-- Dogs with cancerous growths in their mouths have the chance at an increased life expectancy after tumor removal with the help of a new therapeutic canine melanoma vaccine, Oncept. The vaccine contains a substance produced by human DNA that is similar enough to dog's genetic material that it targets canine melanoma cells, but is different enough to be considered foreign by the dog's immune system, resulting in a potent immune response against canine melanoma cells. Dogs with stage II or III melanoma typically survive six months or less after tumor removal, but dogs vaccinated with Oncept had a longer survival time than those not vaccinated, according to DVM360.com.

-- Cats should be hissing at the news that dog owners spend an average of $219 on veterinary visits each year, while cat owners spend an annual average of $179. So says the American Pet Products Association.

-- Sperm are good team players in animals who mate with several males in quick succession. Sperm will make a collaborative push with their relatives for the egg, sometimes with hundreds of sperm linking to each other in an effort to cut out the competition. The strategy has risks, as the linking can set off a chemical reaction that can leave an individual sperm infertile, but the success of one is worth the loss of some. Previously, researchers assumed sperm linked with their closest neighbors, but Harvard University found that even sperm from two brothers would not link, but would link up only when from the same male.

-- People who are overweight are more likely to have overweight dogs, although fat cats don't correlate with an increased weight of an owner, according to a study published in Public Health Nutrition. More than half of all of pets in the United States are overweight. -- Dr. Marty Becker and Mikkel Becker Shannon

THE SCOOP

Make tracks to adopt a retired racer

Greyhound racing is a dying sport, and as more tracks close for good, more former racers are looking for their forever homes. Should yours be one of them?

Do you want a dog who is quiet and clean in the house, takes long, peaceful naps on the sofa, gazes adoringly into your eyes but never pesters you to throw the ball, and is always up for a walk or a run? If that describes you, there's a good chance you'll be happy with a greyhound.

Despite their image as driven athletes, greyhounds are in fact what their owners commonly call "40 mile-an-hour couch potatoes," and while the speeds may vary, the general concept is dead on. Retired racing greyhounds make wonderful pets and require much less exercise than you might expect. Regular walks and two or three good runs in a safe area each week should keep your sleek hound happy and healthy.

Weighing in between 60 and 85 pounds, greyhounds have long legs and necks that make them seem larger than they are. Their short coats mean grooming needs are minimal: A quick swipe every other day with a "hound glove," a two-sided combination of glove and brush, is perfect for removing dead hair and minimizing shedding.

Renowned for their gentle temperaments, greyhounds are wonderful family dogs. As with any of the quick-reacting "sighthound" breeds, there could be problems with cats and small dogs, so be careful if you have other pets. Greyhounds are usually good with other dogs and with children.

Looking for more greyhound tips and information? Be sure to visit www.adopt-a-greyhound.org. -- Christie Keith

BY THE NUMBERS

What sends pets to the vet

Veterinary Pet Insurance (VPI) has released its list of the top medical conditions for which claims were submitted last year for dogs and cats. VPI received more than a million claims in 2009.

The most common ailment in dogs? Ear infection, coming in at nearly 68,000 claims and an average cost of $100 per visit. And in cats? Lower urinary tract disease, with a total of 3,700 claims at an average cost of $260 per visit. Here's the complete list:

Top conditions in dogs

1. Ear infection

2. Skin allergy

3. Skin infection, or hot spots

4. Gastritis, or vomiting

5. Enteritis, or diarrhea

Top conditions in cats

1. Lower urinary tract disease

2. Gastritis, or vomiting

3. Chronic renal failure

4. Hyperthyroidism

5. Diabetes

PET Rx

'Blocked' cats need vet's help

In cats, obstipation is described as the inability to defecate, a very painful and serious condition that demands prompt veterinary attention. The causes of this backup are not well-understood, but they result in intestines that become dilated and unable to push stools out of the body normally.

If your cat is straining or crying out while trying to defecate, or if you notice an absence of feces in the litter box, your pet has a potentially serious problem. Oddly, this blockage may initially appear as diarrhea because your cat's body, so irritated by the retained feces, may generate lots of watery fluid or mucus to try to cope. This discharge may seem like "ordinary" loose stools when passed.

Any changes in your cat's litter-box habits need to be investigated by your veterinarian, the sooner the better, and obstipation is no exception. -- Dr. Marty Becker

Pet Connection is produced by a team of team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper, by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

Looking for a friendly, funny, quiet, clean, inexpensive and even eco-friendly pet? What you're looking for ... is a rabbit.

I have long despaired at the reaction most pet lovers have to that suggestion. In the minds of many, if not most, rabbits are a pet distantly remembered from childhood, a lonely animal kept outside in small and often filthy elevated "hutch." A starter pet for children, and certainly not suited for life outside a cage, most believe.

That impression is wrong. While rabbits remain good pets for respectful older children -- the animals are too fragile for young ones -- they're really better suited to life indoors with a grown-up. So-called "house-rabbits" bloom with proper care and gentle attention, providing endless amounts of quiet companionship punctuated by short periods of delightful silliness.

And while dogs and rabbits aren't always the best combination, cats and rabbits usually get along famously -- albeit with different litter boxes.

Yes, litter boxes. Because while rabbits usually aren't perfect about their use -- a pellet here and there will testify to that, but it's easily cleaned up -- they can and do use a box for most of their messes.

Ready to go rabbit? Shelters and rescue groups always have a great selection and should be the place to shop for a bunny. Better yet, get two: Rabbits love the company and can often be adopted in pairs already bonded.

Visit the site of the House Rabbit Society (rabbit.org) for the best information on caring for these pets. Here's a cheat sheet to get you started:

-- Housing. Your rabbit will need a home base of a small pen or large cage with food, water, toys and a litter box. Use a plain cat box filled with a shallow layer of recycled paper or wood pellets for the box, covered with a layer of fresh grass hay. You don't scoop a rabbit box -- you change it completely, every day. (The ingredients you toss are great for your compost pile, making rabbits among the greenest of pets.)

Because some rabbits can be chewers, you'll want to make sure any rabbit-friendly area has electrical cords tucked away and to deny access to the legs of nice furniture and the corners of good carpets when it's time for your rabbit to roam.

-- Nutrition. Fresh water needs to be available at all times. While commercial pellets are fine, it's just as easy and often less expensive to feed your rabbit yourself. Grass hay (cheaper by the bale if you have a dry space to store it in) should always be available, complemented by an array of green vegetables, from broccoli to kale to mustard greens to carrots with their tops on. For treats, bunnies love little bits of fruits and root vegetables. Think of your rabbit as a "precycler" -- veggie trimmings from your meals can be fed to your rabbit.

-- Health care. Get your rabbit spayed or neutered. In addition to keeping your rabbit from reproducing, you'll have a better pet. Unaltered rabbits can have behavior problems such as aggression and urine-spraying. Your rabbit will need a wellness check, just as a cat or dog would, and a good rabbit vet will help you catch little health problems before they become big ones.

-- Exercise and play. Your rabbit needs a lot of time outside the pen or cage, and many do well with an open-door policy that lets them choose when to be in or out of their cages or pens. Protected outdoor space and even walks with a harness and leash are also good, but don't leave your rabbit unattended. Rabbits can be scared literally to death by predators.

Rabbits love toys. Cat toys, dog toys, hard-plastic baby toys and even the cardboard tubes from inside toilet paper and paper towel rolls are fun for rabbits. Cardboard boxes stuffed with hay and treats are also fun for bunnies. The limit is not budgetary, but imaginary!

What are you waiting for? A wonderful pet is waiting for you, so hop to it!

Q&A

Front-clip harness makes walking easy

Q: My New Year's resolution was to walk every day. Since our dog has added a few extra pounds in middle age, too, I wanted to take her along. Problem is, she is incredibly strong and we never really trained her not to pull on the leash. It's the only problem we have, so I don't want to take a training course. A private trainer seems like overkill. Suggestions? -- O.R., via e-mail.

A: Get a front-clip harness. These relatively new walking tools use the dog's own forward motion to correct pulling, and they're very effective at ending the behavior. And many dogs find front-clip harnesses easier to adjust to than the more common head halters (which I personally think look too ugly to use, in any case).

Front-clip harnesses have a ring in the front where the leash attaches, so you get the same turning effect as the head halter. The pressure is on the shoulders, not the nose, so many dogs find it less objectionable. Trainers who use both say the front-clip harness rarely evokes the "you're not putting that thing on me" response that greets the introduction of a head halter. While resistance to head halters can be overcome with patience and praise, the front-clip harness is pretty much useful right out of the box.

A few companies make a version of the front-clip harness. The one I'm using with my retriever puppy now is the Easy Walk by Premier. Go to www.premier.com for information on proper fitting and use.

If you still have problems after you get a front-clip harness, please reconsider having a trainer come to the house. A couple of targeted sessions with a good dog trainer can make a world of difference in the relationship you have with your pet. The Association of Pet Dog Trainers maintains a list of members on its Web site, www.apdt.com. -- Gina Spadafori

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" and "The Dr. Oz Show" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books.

On PetConnection.com there's more information on pets and their care, reviews of products, books and more. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

THE BUZZ

Cropping, docking still commonly done

-- Of the more than 150 breeds recognized by the American Kennel Club, 13 commonly get ear crops, 48 have docked tails, and 11 have both cropping and docking. Ear crops seem more likely to disappear as a common practice sooner, as fewer pet owners choose to have their puppies' ears sliced into an upright posture, and fewer veterinarians will perform the procedure. The American Veterinary Medical Association opposes ear cropping and tail docking when done solely for cosmetic purposes and has encouraged the elimination of these procedures from breed standards.

-- The average price for hay is $3 to $6 per bale, according a poll on www.thehorse.com. Only 10 percent of respondents were paying less than $3 per bale, while 21 percent paid $6 to $9 per bale, and 8 percent paid more than $11 per bale. A bale of hay commonly lasts about two to four days per horse.

-- Rather than using drugs to sedate a cat for minor veterinary procedures, a new process called "clipnosis" may be used to calm and immobilize the animal. The technique places clips along the back of a cat's neck, mimicking the way a kitten is carried by the scruff by a mother cat. Clipnosis has not yet been widely recognized as a safe and practical method of immobilization, but it may be growing in popularity with a recent study. The trial on 18 cats who were clipped four different times over a period of months found that the animals were not stressed, and some even purred while "clipped." None of the animals displayed signs of pain or stress during the process. The more the animals were clipped, the more tolerant they became of the process. One caveat: The procedure was not effective on cats who were already excited or agitated.

-- Women make up 77 percent of graduating veterinarians. Family friendly hours and the wide availability of part-time or fill-in work are among the reasons why the profession is appealing, according to DVM360.com. -- Dr. Marty Becker and Mikkel Becker Shannon

PET TIP

Cheap, effective cure for a skunked dog

Over the years, I have come to believe that spring is close when I get my first frantic request for "that skunk remedy."

As reported in the Chicago Tribune several years ago, a chemist by the name of Paul Krebaum discovered what turns out to be the hands-down best solution for eliminating odor on dogs who've been skunked. And yes, it really works.

Here's the formula: Take 1 quart of 3 percent hydrogen peroxide, 1/4 cup of baking soda and 1 teaspoon of liquid soap, such as Ivory. Mix and immediately apply to the stinky pet. Then rinse thoroughly with tap water. For a big dog, such as a Labrador, you might double the recipe to improve coverage. Common sense dictates keeping the mix out of sensitive areas like the eyes and ears.

Obviously, no one wants to take the time to run to the store when you have a stinky dog, so buy the ingredients now and keep them on hand. But remember -- don't mix them until seconds before application.

Hydrogen peroxide is a good thing to have around anyway, since it induces vomiting in a dog or puppy who might have eaten something toxic. Be sure to replace your bottle at least once a year, though, because the stuff seems to lose its kick over time. -- Gina Spadafori

BY THE NUMBERS

The friendliest cat cities

The CATalyst Council (catalystcouncil.org) has come out with a list of the top 10 cat-friendly cities. The areas were ranked by the popularity of cats in each city, the level of veterinary care, the prevalence of microchipping for ID, and the "cat-friendliness" of local ordinances. The winners:

1. Tampa

2. Phoenix

3. San Francisco

4. Portland

5. Denver

6. Boston

7. Seattle

8. San Diego

9. Atlanta

10. Minneapolis

THE SCOOP

Another carmaker going to the dogs

Since the PetConnection also owns the DogCars.com Web site, we're well aware of how many people consider their pets when choosing a vehicle. But it's great to see car companies realizing this, too.

Both Honda and Toyota have special-edition models (the Element and the Venza, respectively) with dog-friendly features.

But with a series of new ads, Subaru is aiming to be the new big dog on the block. In a series of ads that debuted Super Bowl weekend, the automaker promoted the Subaru Forester under the tagline: "Dog tested. Dog approved." The clever spots show dogs driving the vehicles, and even parallel parking -- pretty funny stuff.

Subaru's interest in the dog-owning demographic isn't new: In 2008, the company promoted its vehicles in ads that asked, "Without dogs, how would you get rid of that new-car smell?" -- Gina Spadafori

Pet Connection is produced by a team of team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper, by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

Part of my work as a veterinarian involves staying current on the latest in disease prevention and treatment, which means I go to a lot of conferences.

I also speak at a lot of conferences, which is what took me recently to Orlando, where the North American Veterinary Conference is held every year. While I was in Florida, I taped some public service announcements, and that's how I learned of a need for pet beds in shelters.

When I was at the Orange County Animal Services shelter I saw a sparkling-clean facility with a loving staff, all set up for 250 pets but filled with 800. This situation is not special to Orlando, of course, for all over the country job losses and foreclosures are forcing many to give up their pets. At OCAS, as in many other shelters, there aren't enough beds to go around. Some pets share what beds there are, but others sleep on the floor, without even the little bit of warmth and comfort that comes from being off the concrete.

I thought of the senior dogs and cats sleeping on hard surfaces, becoming stiffer and more painful every day, lessening their chances of being adopted.

I thought about skinny pets, cold pets, pets in drafts and on wet floors, all of whom would be healthier, happier and more adoptable if this one basic comfort were available to them.

Like all my readers might have felt, I can't take all those pets home. But that didn't mean I couldn't help and couldn't get others to help. That's when it came to me: Let's get these pets some beds.

In other words, let's help shelter pets rise up, lie down and move out.

Turns out the people at the Kuranda company of Annapolis, Md., are already on this. These cot-style beds are popular with shelters (and pet owners, too, of course) because they're easy to assemble, durable, chew-resistant and easy to keep clean. The company has a program where people buy beds and have them sent directly to any of hundreds of shelters. The cost for a donated bed is discounted 30 percent off the regular price.

In just a few days of sending the word out through our PetConnection.com Web blog, and my Facebook and Twitter accounts, the 100 beds OCAS had requested had been donated.

It's a great start, and now I'm reaching out even more, to help pets in other shelters.

Can you donate a bed for a shelter pet? It's easy! Go to Kuranda's Web site (kuranda.com) and click on "Donate a Bed." You can then choose from dozens of shelters, sorted alphabetically and also searchable by state. When you've chosen your shelter, the site will display what kind of beds the shelter has requested. Buy a bed, and the company will send it to the shelter you've chosen. It'll take you just a couple of minutes and a credit card.

I have no association with the company and didn't know about the program before the folks at OCAS pointed it out. And of course, there are lots of other ways to help your local shelter, with donations of time, money or goods -- and by adopting!

Whatever it takes, let's do it. The need is great, and it only takes a little from each of us to help.

Q&A

Rabbits can't share the cat's litter box

Q: When I grew up, we had rabbits outside in a hutch. After doing some research, we gave in to our daughter's request for a pet rabbit, who lives in her bedroom, mostly inside a roomy cage but also loose in her room when she's in there. There's a box in the cage, but we've read that our cat's litter isn't right. Why can't we just buy in bulk for the cat and use the same litter for both pets? Does it really matter? -- K.I., via e-mail.

A: Yes, it does. Your rabbit needs to have his box filled with wood or pressed paper pellets, and covered with fresh grass hay. Clumping litter puts your rabbits at risk of impaction -- a block of their gastrointestinal tract. As for the hay, your rabbits know what's edible and what's not, and will eat the hay, not the litter.

Putting a layer of high-quality hay -- not straw -- on top of the pelleted paper litter encourages rabbits to use the box, since they tend to pass feces while eating. (I think of eating hay while "on the john" as the rabbit equivalent of reading while in the bathroom.)

Like many animals, rabbits naturally want to keep their area clean and will use a litter box if it's attractive and accessible. Make sure the box is large enough to be comfortable and the sides are low enough for easy entry. Keep it filled with clean pellets and fresh hay, supplemented by a special food treat like an apple slice, and your rabbits will use it likely as not.

Dropping feces while away from the box is normal for some rabbits, but fortunately cleanup is easy with a hand vac. Remember, too, that rabbits who are not neutered will be very difficult to house-train.

Rabbits are indeed wonderful house pets, as you're no doubt finding out. But be sure any area where bunny roams is rabbit-proofed and that your bun is watched while out. Put electric cords in rabbit-proof hoses, wrap wooden furniture legs to discourage chewing and offer lots of toys -- freebies such as cardboard boxes, broken baskets filled with hay and toilet or paper towel rolls are great. -- Gina Spadafori

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" and "The Dr. Oz Show" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books.

On PetConnection.com there's more information on pets and their care, reviews of products, books and more. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

THE BUZZ

A president's pet named for a 'no'

-- According to the Presidential Pet Museum, only two U.S. presidents were completely pet-free while in office: Chester A. Arthur and Franklin Pierce. All other presidents and their families have shared their lives with many different companion animals, starting with George Washington, who was well-known for his fine eye for a good foxhound. The presidential pets have had a lot of interesting names, but perhaps the one that says most about the power of the presidency is the name James Garfield gave to his dog: Veto.

-- "Only the strong survive" has been suspected for generations. But now, scientists are finding ways to further prove the idea. A study on Colorado mountain lions found that sick mule deer were more likely to become a meal for big cats by establishing that the deer were sick before the lions grabbed them. The carcasses of deer killed by lions were tested for chronic wasting disease, with the rate of infection compared to that in deer killed by area hunters. The study, published in Biology Letters, found the deer killed by mountain lions had a higher rate of infection than deer killed by the hunters, suggesting that mountain lions were more likely to kill sick deer. The lions do not seem to be affected by the illness and may be aiding the overall deer population by decreasing the number of infected animals.

-- Dogs have cat fleas, sort of. The flea that drives both cats and dogs -- and their owners -- crazy is Ctenocephalides felis, the "cat flea." But it could have just as easily been named after dogs. In 1934, a French scientist pulled the flea off a cat and named it after the host. He could have just as easily found one on a dog and named the pest accordingly. There is a flea called Ctenocephalides canis, but cat fleas are much more common on both dogs and cats.

-- Fish are a pretty diverse lot. The longest is the whale shark, at 40 to 60 feet. The shortest is the spiny-headed devilfish, at less than one-quarter of an inch. -- Dr. Marty Becker and Mikkel Becker Shannon

THE SCOOP

Bird's cage must be chosen with care

When it comes to choosing a bird cage, metal is the best material. Wood is too hard to clean and usually won't stand up to the abuse birds can dish out.

Metal cages are made of stainless steel, brass, aluminum, galvanized wire or iron, and come in all kinds of designs, with or without paint. Choose a model without fussiness: Embellished avian abodes may look good in the store, but you're apt to regret the purchase every time you try to clean poop out of the decorative elements. Make sure you think and shop from a practical, as well as safe, standpoint for your bird.

Cages are often lacking in an important dimension: width. Those tall and narrow circular cages may look nice, but they force birds to fly more like a helicopter than in the style that comes naturally for them. Remember to consider the way the birds move. Finches and canaries usually prefer to fly horizontally, not vertically. Parrot species like to fly horizontally as well as climb up and down in their cages.

Galvanized metal is fine -- at least it won't rust -- but look for galvanizing material that's electroplated on, not dipped. The latter process too often leaves beads of material that birds can chip off and swallow, putting them at risk of zinc or lead poisoning or both. Powder-coating is popular in many decorator colors and is fine for most birds. -- Gina Spadafori

BY THE NUMBERS

In the know on the new

Seeing is believing when it comes to finding out about new products for pets. According to a 2008 survey by the American Pet Products Association, pet owners find out about new products from (multiple answers allowed):

TV: 59 percent

See in store: 56 percent

Print ad: 40 percent

Friend/relative: 28 percent

Veterinarian: 27 percent

Internet: 15 percent

PET Rx

Yarn not fit for cat toy

Kittens and cats love playing with yarn, as well as string, ribbon and anything that twists and dances. They like to stalk, to pounce, to flip their slender prey in the air and to start stalking again. That's all good, clean fun, but there's always a chance that your cat won't stop with play and will decide to eat his plaything.

The fun stops then, because any sort of "string thing" can cause havoc in your cat's intestines, causing a problem that may need to be surgically treated.

If you knit or sew, put your supplies securely away after you're done with them. Even if your pet's not really the playful type, she may find one kind of string irresistible: juice-soaked string from a roast or turkey. Dispose of these tempting dangers carefully, putting them in a trash container your cat can't get into. -- Dr. Marty Becker

Pet Connection is produced by a team of team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper, by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.