Looking for a friendly, funny, quiet, clean, inexpensive and even eco-friendly pet? What you're looking for ... is a rabbit.

I have long despaired at the reaction most pet lovers have to that suggestion. In the minds of many, if not most, rabbits are a pet distantly remembered from childhood, a lonely animal kept outside in small and often filthy elevated "hutch." A starter pet for children, and certainly not suited for life outside a cage, most believe.

That impression is wrong. While rabbits remain good pets for respectful older children -- the animals are too fragile for young ones -- they're really better suited to life indoors with a grown-up. So-called "house-rabbits" bloom with proper care and gentle attention, providing endless amounts of quiet companionship punctuated by short periods of delightful silliness.

And while dogs and rabbits aren't always the best combination, cats and rabbits usually get along famously -- albeit with different litter boxes.

Yes, litter boxes. Because while rabbits usually aren't perfect about their use -- a pellet here and there will testify to that, but it's easily cleaned up -- they can and do use a box for most of their messes.

Ready to go rabbit? Shelters and rescue groups always have a great selection and should be the place to shop for a bunny. Better yet, get two: Rabbits love the company and can often be adopted in pairs already bonded.

Visit the site of the House Rabbit Society (rabbit.org) for the best information on caring for these pets. Here's a cheat sheet to get you started:

-- Housing. Your rabbit will need a home base of a small pen or large cage with food, water, toys and a litter box. Use a plain cat box filled with a shallow layer of recycled paper or wood pellets for the box, covered with a layer of fresh grass hay. You don't scoop a rabbit box -- you change it completely, every day. (The ingredients you toss are great for your compost pile, making rabbits among the greenest of pets.)

Because some rabbits can be chewers, you'll want to make sure any rabbit-friendly area has electrical cords tucked away and to deny access to the legs of nice furniture and the corners of good carpets when it's time for your rabbit to roam.

-- Nutrition. Fresh water needs to be available at all times. While commercial pellets are fine, it's just as easy and often less expensive to feed your rabbit yourself. Grass hay (cheaper by the bale if you have a dry space to store it in) should always be available, complemented by an array of green vegetables, from broccoli to kale to mustard greens to carrots with their tops on. For treats, bunnies love little bits of fruits and root vegetables. Think of your rabbit as a "precycler" -- veggie trimmings from your meals can be fed to your rabbit.

-- Health care. Get your rabbit spayed or neutered. In addition to keeping your rabbit from reproducing, you'll have a better pet. Unaltered rabbits can have behavior problems such as aggression and urine-spraying. Your rabbit will need a wellness check, just as a cat or dog would, and a good rabbit vet will help you catch little health problems before they become big ones.

-- Exercise and play. Your rabbit needs a lot of time outside the pen or cage, and many do well with an open-door policy that lets them choose when to be in or out of their cages or pens. Protected outdoor space and even walks with a harness and leash are also good, but don't leave your rabbit unattended. Rabbits can be scared literally to death by predators.

Rabbits love toys. Cat toys, dog toys, hard-plastic baby toys and even the cardboard tubes from inside toilet paper and paper towel rolls are fun for rabbits. Cardboard boxes stuffed with hay and treats are also fun for bunnies. The limit is not budgetary, but imaginary!

What are you waiting for? A wonderful pet is waiting for you, so hop to it!

Q&A

Front-clip harness makes walking easy

Q: My New Year's resolution was to walk every day. Since our dog has added a few extra pounds in middle age, too, I wanted to take her along. Problem is, she is incredibly strong and we never really trained her not to pull on the leash. It's the only problem we have, so I don't want to take a training course. A private trainer seems like overkill. Suggestions? -- O.R., via e-mail.

A: Get a front-clip harness. These relatively new walking tools use the dog's own forward motion to correct pulling, and they're very effective at ending the behavior. And many dogs find front-clip harnesses easier to adjust to than the more common head halters (which I personally think look too ugly to use, in any case).

Front-clip harnesses have a ring in the front where the leash attaches, so you get the same turning effect as the head halter. The pressure is on the shoulders, not the nose, so many dogs find it less objectionable. Trainers who use both say the front-clip harness rarely evokes the "you're not putting that thing on me" response that greets the introduction of a head halter. While resistance to head halters can be overcome with patience and praise, the front-clip harness is pretty much useful right out of the box.

A few companies make a version of the front-clip harness. The one I'm using with my retriever puppy now is the Easy Walk by Premier. Go to www.premier.com for information on proper fitting and use.

If you still have problems after you get a front-clip harness, please reconsider having a trainer come to the house. A couple of targeted sessions with a good dog trainer can make a world of difference in the relationship you have with your pet. The Association of Pet Dog Trainers maintains a list of members on its Web site, www.apdt.com. -- Gina Spadafori

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" and "The Dr. Oz Show" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books.

On PetConnection.com there's more information on pets and their care, reviews of products, books and more. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

THE BUZZ

Cropping, docking still commonly done

-- Of the more than 150 breeds recognized by the American Kennel Club, 13 commonly get ear crops, 48 have docked tails, and 11 have both cropping and docking. Ear crops seem more likely to disappear as a common practice sooner, as fewer pet owners choose to have their puppies' ears sliced into an upright posture, and fewer veterinarians will perform the procedure. The American Veterinary Medical Association opposes ear cropping and tail docking when done solely for cosmetic purposes and has encouraged the elimination of these procedures from breed standards.

-- The average price for hay is $3 to $6 per bale, according a poll on www.thehorse.com. Only 10 percent of respondents were paying less than $3 per bale, while 21 percent paid $6 to $9 per bale, and 8 percent paid more than $11 per bale. A bale of hay commonly lasts about two to four days per horse.

-- Rather than using drugs to sedate a cat for minor veterinary procedures, a new process called "clipnosis" may be used to calm and immobilize the animal. The technique places clips along the back of a cat's neck, mimicking the way a kitten is carried by the scruff by a mother cat. Clipnosis has not yet been widely recognized as a safe and practical method of immobilization, but it may be growing in popularity with a recent study. The trial on 18 cats who were clipped four different times over a period of months found that the animals were not stressed, and some even purred while "clipped." None of the animals displayed signs of pain or stress during the process. The more the animals were clipped, the more tolerant they became of the process. One caveat: The procedure was not effective on cats who were already excited or agitated.

-- Women make up 77 percent of graduating veterinarians. Family friendly hours and the wide availability of part-time or fill-in work are among the reasons why the profession is appealing, according to DVM360.com. -- Dr. Marty Becker and Mikkel Becker Shannon

PET TIP

Cheap, effective cure for a skunked dog

Over the years, I have come to believe that spring is close when I get my first frantic request for "that skunk remedy."

As reported in the Chicago Tribune several years ago, a chemist by the name of Paul Krebaum discovered what turns out to be the hands-down best solution for eliminating odor on dogs who've been skunked. And yes, it really works.

Here's the formula: Take 1 quart of 3 percent hydrogen peroxide, 1/4 cup of baking soda and 1 teaspoon of liquid soap, such as Ivory. Mix and immediately apply to the stinky pet. Then rinse thoroughly with tap water. For a big dog, such as a Labrador, you might double the recipe to improve coverage. Common sense dictates keeping the mix out of sensitive areas like the eyes and ears.

Obviously, no one wants to take the time to run to the store when you have a stinky dog, so buy the ingredients now and keep them on hand. But remember -- don't mix them until seconds before application.

Hydrogen peroxide is a good thing to have around anyway, since it induces vomiting in a dog or puppy who might have eaten something toxic. Be sure to replace your bottle at least once a year, though, because the stuff seems to lose its kick over time. -- Gina Spadafori

BY THE NUMBERS

The friendliest cat cities

The CATalyst Council (catalystcouncil.org) has come out with a list of the top 10 cat-friendly cities. The areas were ranked by the popularity of cats in each city, the level of veterinary care, the prevalence of microchipping for ID, and the "cat-friendliness" of local ordinances. The winners:

1. Tampa

2. Phoenix

3. San Francisco

4. Portland

5. Denver

6. Boston

7. Seattle

8. San Diego

9. Atlanta

10. Minneapolis

THE SCOOP

Another carmaker going to the dogs

Since the PetConnection also owns the DogCars.com Web site, we're well aware of how many people consider their pets when choosing a vehicle. But it's great to see car companies realizing this, too.

Both Honda and Toyota have special-edition models (the Element and the Venza, respectively) with dog-friendly features.

But with a series of new ads, Subaru is aiming to be the new big dog on the block. In a series of ads that debuted Super Bowl weekend, the automaker promoted the Subaru Forester under the tagline: "Dog tested. Dog approved." The clever spots show dogs driving the vehicles, and even parallel parking -- pretty funny stuff.

Subaru's interest in the dog-owning demographic isn't new: In 2008, the company promoted its vehicles in ads that asked, "Without dogs, how would you get rid of that new-car smell?" -- Gina Spadafori

Pet Connection is produced by a team of team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper, by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

Part of my work as a veterinarian involves staying current on the latest in disease prevention and treatment, which means I go to a lot of conferences.

I also speak at a lot of conferences, which is what took me recently to Orlando, where the North American Veterinary Conference is held every year. While I was in Florida, I taped some public service announcements, and that's how I learned of a need for pet beds in shelters.

When I was at the Orange County Animal Services shelter I saw a sparkling-clean facility with a loving staff, all set up for 250 pets but filled with 800. This situation is not special to Orlando, of course, for all over the country job losses and foreclosures are forcing many to give up their pets. At OCAS, as in many other shelters, there aren't enough beds to go around. Some pets share what beds there are, but others sleep on the floor, without even the little bit of warmth and comfort that comes from being off the concrete.

I thought of the senior dogs and cats sleeping on hard surfaces, becoming stiffer and more painful every day, lessening their chances of being adopted.

I thought about skinny pets, cold pets, pets in drafts and on wet floors, all of whom would be healthier, happier and more adoptable if this one basic comfort were available to them.

Like all my readers might have felt, I can't take all those pets home. But that didn't mean I couldn't help and couldn't get others to help. That's when it came to me: Let's get these pets some beds.

In other words, let's help shelter pets rise up, lie down and move out.

Turns out the people at the Kuranda company of Annapolis, Md., are already on this. These cot-style beds are popular with shelters (and pet owners, too, of course) because they're easy to assemble, durable, chew-resistant and easy to keep clean. The company has a program where people buy beds and have them sent directly to any of hundreds of shelters. The cost for a donated bed is discounted 30 percent off the regular price.

In just a few days of sending the word out through our PetConnection.com Web blog, and my Facebook and Twitter accounts, the 100 beds OCAS had requested had been donated.

It's a great start, and now I'm reaching out even more, to help pets in other shelters.

Can you donate a bed for a shelter pet? It's easy! Go to Kuranda's Web site (kuranda.com) and click on "Donate a Bed." You can then choose from dozens of shelters, sorted alphabetically and also searchable by state. When you've chosen your shelter, the site will display what kind of beds the shelter has requested. Buy a bed, and the company will send it to the shelter you've chosen. It'll take you just a couple of minutes and a credit card.

I have no association with the company and didn't know about the program before the folks at OCAS pointed it out. And of course, there are lots of other ways to help your local shelter, with donations of time, money or goods -- and by adopting!

Whatever it takes, let's do it. The need is great, and it only takes a little from each of us to help.

Q&A

Rabbits can't share the cat's litter box

Q: When I grew up, we had rabbits outside in a hutch. After doing some research, we gave in to our daughter's request for a pet rabbit, who lives in her bedroom, mostly inside a roomy cage but also loose in her room when she's in there. There's a box in the cage, but we've read that our cat's litter isn't right. Why can't we just buy in bulk for the cat and use the same litter for both pets? Does it really matter? -- K.I., via e-mail.

A: Yes, it does. Your rabbit needs to have his box filled with wood or pressed paper pellets, and covered with fresh grass hay. Clumping litter puts your rabbits at risk of impaction -- a block of their gastrointestinal tract. As for the hay, your rabbits know what's edible and what's not, and will eat the hay, not the litter.

Putting a layer of high-quality hay -- not straw -- on top of the pelleted paper litter encourages rabbits to use the box, since they tend to pass feces while eating. (I think of eating hay while "on the john" as the rabbit equivalent of reading while in the bathroom.)

Like many animals, rabbits naturally want to keep their area clean and will use a litter box if it's attractive and accessible. Make sure the box is large enough to be comfortable and the sides are low enough for easy entry. Keep it filled with clean pellets and fresh hay, supplemented by a special food treat like an apple slice, and your rabbits will use it likely as not.

Dropping feces while away from the box is normal for some rabbits, but fortunately cleanup is easy with a hand vac. Remember, too, that rabbits who are not neutered will be very difficult to house-train.

Rabbits are indeed wonderful house pets, as you're no doubt finding out. But be sure any area where bunny roams is rabbit-proofed and that your bun is watched while out. Put electric cords in rabbit-proof hoses, wrap wooden furniture legs to discourage chewing and offer lots of toys -- freebies such as cardboard boxes, broken baskets filled with hay and toilet or paper towel rolls are great. -- Gina Spadafori

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" and "The Dr. Oz Show" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books.

On PetConnection.com there's more information on pets and their care, reviews of products, books and more. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

THE BUZZ

A president's pet named for a 'no'

-- According to the Presidential Pet Museum, only two U.S. presidents were completely pet-free while in office: Chester A. Arthur and Franklin Pierce. All other presidents and their families have shared their lives with many different companion animals, starting with George Washington, who was well-known for his fine eye for a good foxhound. The presidential pets have had a lot of interesting names, but perhaps the one that says most about the power of the presidency is the name James Garfield gave to his dog: Veto.

-- "Only the strong survive" has been suspected for generations. But now, scientists are finding ways to further prove the idea. A study on Colorado mountain lions found that sick mule deer were more likely to become a meal for big cats by establishing that the deer were sick before the lions grabbed them. The carcasses of deer killed by lions were tested for chronic wasting disease, with the rate of infection compared to that in deer killed by area hunters. The study, published in Biology Letters, found the deer killed by mountain lions had a higher rate of infection than deer killed by the hunters, suggesting that mountain lions were more likely to kill sick deer. The lions do not seem to be affected by the illness and may be aiding the overall deer population by decreasing the number of infected animals.

-- Dogs have cat fleas, sort of. The flea that drives both cats and dogs -- and their owners -- crazy is Ctenocephalides felis, the "cat flea." But it could have just as easily been named after dogs. In 1934, a French scientist pulled the flea off a cat and named it after the host. He could have just as easily found one on a dog and named the pest accordingly. There is a flea called Ctenocephalides canis, but cat fleas are much more common on both dogs and cats.

-- Fish are a pretty diverse lot. The longest is the whale shark, at 40 to 60 feet. The shortest is the spiny-headed devilfish, at less than one-quarter of an inch. -- Dr. Marty Becker and Mikkel Becker Shannon

THE SCOOP

Bird's cage must be chosen with care

When it comes to choosing a bird cage, metal is the best material. Wood is too hard to clean and usually won't stand up to the abuse birds can dish out.

Metal cages are made of stainless steel, brass, aluminum, galvanized wire or iron, and come in all kinds of designs, with or without paint. Choose a model without fussiness: Embellished avian abodes may look good in the store, but you're apt to regret the purchase every time you try to clean poop out of the decorative elements. Make sure you think and shop from a practical, as well as safe, standpoint for your bird.

Cages are often lacking in an important dimension: width. Those tall and narrow circular cages may look nice, but they force birds to fly more like a helicopter than in the style that comes naturally for them. Remember to consider the way the birds move. Finches and canaries usually prefer to fly horizontally, not vertically. Parrot species like to fly horizontally as well as climb up and down in their cages.

Galvanized metal is fine -- at least it won't rust -- but look for galvanizing material that's electroplated on, not dipped. The latter process too often leaves beads of material that birds can chip off and swallow, putting them at risk of zinc or lead poisoning or both. Powder-coating is popular in many decorator colors and is fine for most birds. -- Gina Spadafori

BY THE NUMBERS

In the know on the new

Seeing is believing when it comes to finding out about new products for pets. According to a 2008 survey by the American Pet Products Association, pet owners find out about new products from (multiple answers allowed):

TV: 59 percent

See in store: 56 percent

Print ad: 40 percent

Friend/relative: 28 percent

Veterinarian: 27 percent

Internet: 15 percent

PET Rx

Yarn not fit for cat toy

Kittens and cats love playing with yarn, as well as string, ribbon and anything that twists and dances. They like to stalk, to pounce, to flip their slender prey in the air and to start stalking again. That's all good, clean fun, but there's always a chance that your cat won't stop with play and will decide to eat his plaything.

The fun stops then, because any sort of "string thing" can cause havoc in your cat's intestines, causing a problem that may need to be surgically treated.

If you knit or sew, put your supplies securely away after you're done with them. Even if your pet's not really the playful type, she may find one kind of string irresistible: juice-soaked string from a roast or turkey. Dispose of these tempting dangers carefully, putting them in a trash container your cat can't get into. -- Dr. Marty Becker

Pet Connection is produced by a team of team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper, by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

Beauty is more than skin-deep when it comes to your dog. Keeping your pet well-groomed not only gives you a clean-smelling companion, it also helps keep your dog more comfortable and allows you to spot health problems before they become serious, even life-threatening.

How important is grooming to your pet's comfort? Consider a simple mat, so easy to overlook. Have you ever had your hair in a ponytail that was just a little too tight? A mat can feel the same way to your dog, a constant pull on the skin. Try to imagine those all over your body, and you have a good idea how uncomfortable an ungroomed coat can be.

Your dog need never know what a mat feels like if you keep him brushed and combed -- but that's just the start of the health benefits. Regular grooming allows you to look for lumps, bumps and injuries, while clearing such things as mats and ticks from his coat. Follow up with your veterinarian on any questionable masses you find, and you may detect cancer early enough to save your pet's life.

For shorthaired breeds, keeping skin and coat in good shape is easy. Run your hands over him daily, a brush over him weekly, and that's it.

For other breeds, grooming is a little more involved. Breeds such as collies, chows, Keeshonden and Alaskan malamutes are "double-coated," which means they have a downy undercoat underneath harsher long hair. The down can mat like a layer of felt against the skin if left untended. To prevent this, divide the coat into small sections and brush against the grain from the skin outward, working from head to tail, section by section. In the spring and fall -- the big shedding times -- you'll end up with enough of that fluffy undercoat to make a whole new dog. Keep brushing and think of the benefits: The fur you pull out with a brush won't end up on the furniture, and removing the old stuff keeps your pet cooler in the summer and lets new insulation come in for the winter.

Silky-coated dogs such as Afghan hounds, cockers and Maltese also need constant brushing to keep tangles from forming. As with the double-coated dogs, work with small sections at a time, brushing from the skin outward, and then comb back into place with the grain for a glossy, finished look. Coats of this type require so much attention that having a groomer keep the dogs trimmed to a medium length is often more practical. In fact, experts say that the pets who shed the least are longhaired dogs kept trimmed short by a groomer.

Curly and wiry coats, such as those on poodles and terriers, need to be brushed weekly, working against the grain and then with it. Curly coats need to be clipped every six weeks; wiry ones, two or three times a year (but clipping every six weeks will keep your terrier looking sharper).

Good grooming is about more than keeping your pet looking beautiful and clean-smelling, although that's certainly one of the pleasant payoffs. Regular grooming relaxes the dog who's used to it, and it becomes a special time shared between you both. A coat free of mats, burrs and tangles, and skin free of fleas and ticks, are as comfortable to your dog as clean clothes fresh from the wash are to you. It just makes you feel good, and the effect is the same for your pet.

Some added benefit for you: Giving your dog a tummy rub after every session is sure to relax you (and your dog, of course) and ease the stress of your day. And for allergy sufferers, keeping a dog clean may make having a dog possible.

Q&A

Keeping dogs out of the box

Q: Our dog finds our cat's litter box irresistible. It's a disgusting habit, and we can't break her of it, even with spankings and yelling at her. It just makes her sneakier. Have you ever written about this? What can we do? -- K.I., via e-mail.

A: We get this question constantly. Litter boxes are irresistible to many if not most dogs: They're drawn to the undigested protein that remains in feline feces. Faced with a constant supply and ready access, no dog will be able to resist for long, which is why efforts to train your pet haven't been successful.

The better plan would be to restrict access, which can be accomplished in many ways, including:

-- Covered litter boxes. You can find litter boxes with lids at almost any pet-supply store, and this might fix the problem. Cats who have asthma shouldn't use them, some cats won't use them, and some dogs are strong enough (or small enough) to get to the box anyway. But for some households, a covered box will solve the problem.

-- Change the litter box location. Make any change slowly, so as not to discourage litter box use by your cat. But it doesn't hurt to experiment with such things as moving the litter box to a location above the dog's reach.

-- Provide barriers. One way is to rig a door so it stays open wide enough for the cat but not for the dog. One friend of mine did this by putting hooks on the edge of a door and the door jamb, and then by putting a length of chain between them to allow the door to stay open wide enough for the cat, but not for the dog. Another possibility is to cut a cat-sized hole through the door to the litter box room. For a small dog who's able to fit through any opening a cat can, a baby gate is an alternative: The cat can jump over it, but the dog cannot.

Experiment with what works, and realize that punishment doesn't work when the reward is as wonderful (to your dog) as the litter box contents. This is one case in which training the family to make adjustments usually works much better than trying to train the dog. -- Gina Spadafori

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" and "The Dr. Oz Show" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books.

On PetConnection.com there's more information on pets and their care, reviews of products, books and more. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

THE BUZZ

FDA 'widget' gets recall news out

-- If you see information on pet health pop up automatically on the Web site of your veterinary hospital, favorite pet-related blog or other pet-care site, what you've likely noticed is the U.S. Food and Drug Administration's new "widget." The widget is a small graphic that's easily added to any Web site by following instructions on the FDA site (www.fda.gov/pethealthwidget). Once loaded onto the host site, the graphic updates automatically with news and information from the federal agency, including recall notifications and information on how to report problems with food or medications.

-- An animal resulting from the physical mingling of very early embryos of two species, thus having four parents, is known as a "chimera." One such chimera is the "geep," a mix of a sheep and goat. Six geeps were born at the Institute of Animal Physiology in Cambridge, England, in 1984, but only one had blood proteins from both sheep and goats and patches of goat hair and sheep wool. With a true hybrid, the embryo would need genetic material from both species mixed at conception, half coming from one parent, and half from the other. A hybrid goat/sheep would be sterile, because the animals have mismatched numbers of chromosomes -- goats have 60 and sheep, 54.

-- Veterinary specialists working in the pet-care field -- as opposed to academia, industry or large-animal medicine -- number at about 3,000, based at approximately 746 practices of all types and sizes. So says the American Animal Hospital Association (aahanet.org) in a 2005 benchmarking study that looked at the growth of specialists in veterinary medicine. Veterinary system specialties include cardiology, radiology, dermatology, ophthalmology, emergency and critical care, and surgery, along with species specialists certified in avian or feline medicine.

-- The heaviest land mammal and the second tallest animal is the African elephant, with the tallest males measuring 12 feet tall. The elephant's height doesn't compete with the giraffe's, the tallest of which can be 19 feet tall. -- Dr. Marty Becker and Mikkel Becker Shannon

THE SCOOP

Pet problem? Get professional help, now

When you're dealing with a pet's behavior problem, quick-fix, halfhearted efforts are doomed from the start. What you need is dedication, patience and help from your veterinarian and a pet-behavior expert.

Why your veterinarian? Because the first rule of solving any behavioral problem is to make sure it's not a medical problem. Health issues that cause or contribute to behavior problems must first be accurately diagnosed and treated with the help of your veterinarian.

Once you know your pet is healthy, a trainer or behaviorist can help you work on resolving the problem.

Consulting an expert can save time, money and aggravation. Time, because someone with experience in animal behavior can quickly determine the root of the problem, without the emotional baggage that a pet owner may bring to the situation. Money, because a consultation or two is a great deal cheaper than replacing a chewed couch or blitzed landscaping. And aggravation? Anyone who has ever lived with a problem pet -- and that's most of us, at one time or another -- can understand how annoying it can be.

Behaviorist experts are not "trainers" in the sense of offering group obedience classes to sharpen a pet's manners. Instead, they work one-on-one with you to solve a specific behavior problem. Some are veterinarians, some have academic credentials in other fields, and still others have learned their expertise in "the school of hard knocks." Ask your veterinarian for a referral.

Above all, don't put off getting the help you need. The sooner you get help, the more likely it is that you'll be able to solve the problem. -- Gina Spadafori

BY THE NUMBERS

Experience matters

People who have dogs, cats and birds are making a lifestyle choice. For other pets, shorter periods of pet ownership are more common. The number of years as a pet owner, by species, according to the 2008 survey of the American Pet Products Association:

Cat: 19 years

Dog: 18 years

Bird: 12 years

Freshwater fish: 8 years

Saltwater fish: 5.2 years

Reptile: 2.8 years

Small animal: 1.8 years

PET Rx

Keep pets away from antifreeze

Pet lovers have two ways to protect their animal companions from lapping away at deadly antifreeze -- one relatively foolproof, the other not.

-- Not foolproof: Use a safer antifreeze made from a different formulation than the more popular variety, store chemicals properly, and wipe up spills promptly. While this should eliminate most of the risk for dogs, these strategies are not foolproof for free-roaming cats because you cannot control what your neighbors will do when it comes to using or storing deadly chemicals.

-- Foolproof: Keep cats inside. Free-roaming cats have relatively short life spans because the outside world is full of deadly hazards. To antifreeze, add cars, coyotes (even in cities!) and cat-hating neighbors to the list of things that can kill a free-roaming cat.

If you even suspect that your pet has gotten into some antifreeze, get him to the veterinary clinic immediately. There's no "wait and see" period with this stuff. -- Dr. Marty Becker

Pet Connection is produced by a team of team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper, by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.