SIMPLE PRECAUTIONS WILL KEEP YOUR PET HEALTHY OVER THE HOLIDAYS

Some people seem to have bad luck over the holidays, and I have traditionally been one of them. I've filled the house with smoke from a poorly laid fire in the fireplace just before guests arrived for dinner, and I've tripped over a sleeping dog on Christmas morning and ended up in the emergency room (the dog was fine; I went home with a cast).

But that's nothing compared to the disasters that seem to dog the pets in our family over the years. I've spent good parts of many holidays in after-hours veterinary clinics, and a few times those trips were for problems that could have been prevented.

Fortunately, the better part of two decades -- and most of my writing career -- have passed since my last holiday pet disaster, and I'd like to think it's because I learned a few things along the way. In the interest of helping your holiday season go easier, I'd like to remind you of what to look out for in the weeks to come.

Every year at this time I offer a list of the most common holiday hazards for pets, including foreign-body ingestion and accidental poisoning. The bad news is that many pets will end up at a veterinarian's office this holiday season. The good news is that yours won't be among them if you keep an eye out for these hazards.

The place to start? The Christmas tree. This popular sign of the season is full of hazards for dogs and cats. Tinsel can be an appealing target for play, but if ingested, it can twist up the intestines and may need to be surgically removed. This is a particular danger to cats and kittens, who seem to find tinsel -- along with yarn, ribbon and string -- especially appealing to eat.

Ornaments, too, are deadly in the mouths -- and stomachs -- of pets, and even the water at the base of the tree contains secretions that can at the very least cause a stomachache. Light strings are no good for chewing, and the whole tree can come down on the cat climbing in its branches. Some dogs may even be inclined to break the rules of house-training on a freshly cut tree -- why else, they reason, would anyone bring a tree into the house?

The best way to keep your pets out of tree trouble is by making the tree off-limits unless you're there to supervise. Putting the tree in a room with a door you can close is probably the easiest solution.

And how about holiday greenery? Holiday plants such as mistletoe may look intriguing to your pet, but they're also toxic, as are the bulbs of the amaryllis plant. (Long the poster child for holiday poisoning, the falsely maligned poinsettia can be safely welcomed into the pet lover's home.) Holiday food can be a problem, too (see sidebar).

The best way to keep your pet safe is to look at everything new that's in your house for the holidays and figure out the best way to keep it out of the mouths and paws of your pets.

And just in case the worst should happen, find the number now of the nearest veterinary emergency clinic and know how to get there if you have to.

SIDEBAR

Thanksgiving: Don't share the goodies

We love to share food with our pets, and what better time to do it than on Thanksgiving?

Problem is, foods that are too rich, too fatty or too spicy -- or anything your pet's not accustomed to -- can trigger a bout of intestinal upset. For some animals, the treat can trigger a serious inflammation of the pancreas or intestine, and that means a life-threatening illness.

What to avoid? Anything that you wouldn't eat, your pet should avoid, too. And while a little bit of lean meat -- beef or poultry - can be added to your pet's meal, steer clear of the fatty parts and poultry skin. And no gravy!

While you're waiting for the Thanksgiving feast to begin, don't share the appetizers, either. And as for the sweets in festive holiday bowls? Put them out of reach, so your pets don't help themselves. -- G.S.

Q&A

Tips for ending cat scratching

Q: May I share how I trained our cats to use the scratching post instead of the furniture?

You're right in your recent column: Yelling at the cat and punishing him won't work when it comes to destructive scratching. You have use motivations that mean something to the cat. And you have to teach him where to scratch. Otherwise, how is he to know you want him to scratch the post?

I use the cat's favorite treats, a scratching post, a squirt bottle and some wide, double-sided sticky tape.

The tape goes on the spots where the cat prefers to scratch, and the sticky feel discourages scratching. I begin training by rubbing their paws on the post, so their paw-scent is left on it. I immediately give the cat a treat for having his paws on the post.

Usually it takes only a few tries for the cat to get the message that scratching the post would get food -- a reward all cats understand. My oldest cat still goes through an evening routine where he trots up to the post, scratches it, and looks at me with a "Well, where's my treat?" expression. He also scratches and stares at me when he knows it's dinnertime.

The squirt bottle is for when I catch them scratching elsewhere. One brief squirt is all it takes to convince them to stop. Then I can redirect their attention to scratching the post.

We have three indoor kitties (one is a feral kitten that we took in), and our furniture is still mostly unscathed. Understanding the feline mind really does work! -- K.B., via e-mail

A: Thank you for sharing your tips. They're excellent! I wish more people would understand that reward-based training is really the way to go with cats. Punishment often stresses out the cat more and not only damages the bond with the animal, but often leads to other stress-related behaviors, such as urine-spraying.

Working with a cat's natural tendencies and rewarding him for good behavior is the best way to train these pets. -- G.S.

Potty where?

Q: Until a month ago, we spent weekends in a different home with our dog and cat. In the weekend home, our cat would spend time outside, but he would always come in to use the litter box. At our home, it is just the opposite: He spends time outside but never uses the litter box inside. We provide the same box and same litter. Can you explain this? -- A.H., via e-mail

A: When you are dealing with litter box questions, you have to remember always that cats may seem mysterious in their ways, but their choices are not at all mysterious to them.

Each cat will prefer one kind of area to potty over another. Factors that go into the preference may include box and filler type, location, past illness and so on. Without knowing the complete history of your cat in both houses, and without observing the cat for signs of unhappiness with the box in the weekday home, I'd guess there's a difference that's quite obvious to your cat but not to you.

It could be as simple as this: At the weekday home, there's a potty area outside that's more appealing than the litter box, and at the weekend home, the situation is reversed. For example, there may be a kind of soil in the beds at one home that your cat likes. Or maybe at the home where your cat chooses to use the box, there could be a neighborhood bully-cat who's driving your cat inside. -- G.S.

PET BUY

Paperwork needed for pet purchase

Adding a pet to the family is often referred to as an "adoption," but make no mistake: It's still a business transaction. Whether you're getting a pet from a shelter, rescue group or private breeder, you should come away not only with a new family member but also with a sheaf of paperwork.

At minimum, the rescue group, shelter or seller should provide you with a contract that spells out any guarantees for health and temperament as well as return policies if the animal isn't working out. A basic medical history -- vaccines, wormings, neutering -- should also be included, as should recommendations for future medical care, food and so on. If you're buying a registered animal, make sure you get the forms you need to transfer ownership with such organizations as the American Kennel Club and the Cat Fanciers' Association.

If you do not get all the breed registration paperwork, it can be difficult to track it down later. Some sellers flat-out disappear after a sale, while others will try to charge more for "papers" after you've already taken your pet home. Mind you, any breeder who'd do either is likely not someone you should have been getting a pup or kitten from in the first place. But that won't help you much when you've already fallen in love with your new pet, will it?

If you don't get registration paperwork, the breed registries will try to help with registration matters if you contact them. But in most cases they can't do much, since people rarely have enough information on the breeder or the animal's parents to get the matter cleared up. -- G.S.

PET Rx

Head tilt common in pet rabbits

Head-tilting in rabbits is common and can be caused by a variety of diseases. A common name for head tilt is "wry neck," although the correct medical term is "vestibular disease."

Rabbits with vestibular disease can have a head position that ranges from a few degrees to 180 degrees off the normal position. They can fall over, circle, have difficulties standing and develop eye injuries because the downward-facing eye is in a position of vulnerability. These pets need to see a veterinarian for proper diagnosis of the causes behind the head tilt and then targeted treatment.

For most rabbits with vestibular disease, the vast majority will recover most of their normal head position and lead normal lives, as long as good nursing, veterinary care and time for recovery are provided. Some rabbits, however, will have a lifelong residual head tilt even if the inner ear disease is cured. -- Dr. Marty Becker

THE SCOOP

Pet choices? Don't rule out the rat

Let go of everything you've ever thought about rats and consider the benefits of these pets with an open mind.

-- Rats are social animals. Many small pets don't like being handled, but rats get used to careful socialization easily and come to enjoy riding in pockets and on shoulders.

-- Rats are smart. Rats respond quickly to food-based training and seem to love to perform tricks.

-- Rats are agile and sturdy. Try to get a guinea pig to run a maze or climb a ladder and you'll appreciate the fleet-footedness of a rat. Unlike mice, rats can stand up to the handling -- and occasionally, the unintentional mishandling -- of well-meaning children.

-- Rats are diverse. Think colors like silver mink, platinum, blue and chocolate, and markings like hooded (the head a different color than the body) or masked.

-- Rats are easy to keep. Get a cage sized for a slightly larger animal, such as a chinchilla or guinea pig, and your rat will be content. Add bedding, a place for the animal to hide and sleep, a food dish and a water bottle, some toys, and you're set. Your rat will happily eat the food manufactured for them and will be even happier if you add fruit, nuts, vegetables and other "people food."

The downside of rats? They don't live all that long -- two to three years -- and they're prone to tumors. And like all rodents, they love to chew and can be destructive if left unsupervised.

Be sure to choose a healthy rat from a reputable source. As with all pets, good sanitation practices are a must, especially hand-washing after handling the animals. A calm, well-socialized rat isn't likely to bite, but any nips that do happen should be discussed with the family doctor, especially when children are involved. -- G.S.

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

On PetConnection.com there's more information on pets and their care, reviews of products, books and "dog cars," and a monthly drawing for more than $1,000 in pet-care prizes. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

PETS BY THE NUMBERS

Why keep a cat?

Companionship is the No. 1 reason why cats are so popular, according to a survey by the American Pet Products Manufacturers Association. Here are the top responses given (multiple answers allowed):

Companionship 90 percent

Fun to watch 73 percent

Relieves stress 62 percent

Like family member 60 percent

Easy to maintain 57 percent

Pest control 51 percent

Pet Connection is produced by a team of team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper, by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

We get e-mails every day asking about "the farm."

What farm, you ask? The one where many imagine their unmanageable dog will be welcomed, along with countless others. A farm where dogs run leash-free, with no children to bite, no cats to kill, no home or yard to destroy, and no nearby neighbors to hear the barking, barking, barking.

"We can't handle our dog anymore," someone will write to us desperately. "We need to find him a home on a farm."

Of course, no such farms exist. The responsibility for correcting your dog's behavior problems rests solely with you. His quality of life is at considerable risk -- and likely his very life: Dogs with serious behavior problems whose owners give up on them are often euthanized after adoption efforts fail.

It doesn't have to be that way. While some behavior problems aren't fixable, most can be. To accomplish such change, though, you have to be prepared to put some time into changing the situation. Quick-fix, halfhearted efforts are doomed from the start.

The first rule of solving any behavioral problem is to make sure it's not a medical problem. Health issues that cause or contribute to behavior problems must first be accurately diagnosed and treated with the help of your veterinarian.

When your pet is healthy, your veterinarian can still be of use. While few veterinarians have the certified training or knowledge to help solve behavior problems, the number of those who do is growing -- and your vet may be one of them. Even those veterinarians who have no interest in behavior work can refer you to someone who can help. Loosely grouped under the term "behaviorist," these pet professionals can help you fix what ails the relationship you have with your pet.

Consulting a behaviorist can save you time, money and aggravation. Time, because someone with experience in animal behavior can quickly determine the root of the problem, without the emotional baggage that a pet owner may bring to the situation. Money, because a consultation or two is a great deal cheaper than replacing a chewed couch or blitzed landscaping. And aggravation? You'll understand that one if you've ever lived with a problem pet.

One of the best choices for help is a veterinarian who has received additional certification in solving pet-behavior problems. These professionals have gone through years of study in animal health and behavior and have done a residency in the field as well. One plus with this group: They can prescribe medications to help correct behavior problems as part of an overall program.

People with other academic degrees (such as psychology) and people who've picked up their knowledge in the field also make themselves available for advising on behavior. Some in the latter group can be excellent, so don't let a lack of degrees deter you from getting help from someone who has studied in the "school of hard knocks" (or would that be the "school of bites and scratches"?).

Behaviorists are not "trainers" in the sense of offering group obedience classes to sharpen a pet's manners. Instead, they work one-on-one with you to solve a specific behavior problem.

If you're in a situation where you're thinking of dumping your pet, ask your veterinarian for help, or call your closest college of veterinary medicine. And quit dreaming about that imaginary farm where all bad dogs are welcome. It exists only in those dreams.

Instead, get help to get the dog you dreamed of owning.

Q&A

Getting help with pet's noise fears

Q: Can you suggest some ways for us to cope with our dog's fear of loud storms? -- K.R., via e-mail

A: Some breeds and types of dogs seem to be more high-strung and sensitive to noise, but the truth is that any dog can become terrified of storms. After all, a storm is more than just thunder: The atmospheric pressure changes, the sky lights up, static electricity builds, and rain pounds on the roof. The smells in the air are so different that even we scent-challenged humans say, "Smells like rain." Imagine what an incoming storm smells like to our dogs.

Sometimes all you need to do is to eliminate the static electricity in the air: Try wiping your dog with a dryer sheet. It can really help.

For other dogs, fear of thunderstorms increases because their people mishandle the early signs of fear -- either by soothing the dog or by punishing her. Soothing a dog ("Poor baby! Don't be afraid. Come here and get a hug.") rewards the behavior, while punishing a dog makes a scary event even more frightening.

Sensitivity to loud noises is easier to prevent than to cure, unfortunately. When puppies and young dogs show concern, one strategy is to distract them. Give them something positive to do, such as starting a training session with lots of treats or playing a favorite game. In other words, ignore the storm, distract the dog and set the tone by acting unconcerned. With a new dog, the first time there is a storm, pretend it is an invitation to a "storm party." With every crack of thunder, respond, "Whoopee! That was a fun one. Here's your storm cookie!" Couple this with happy requests for simple obedience commands.

Once a dog has developed a full-blown phobia, though, the fear of storms is quite dramatic and can be dangerous. Some dogs may tremble, others may destroy their surroundings, and still others may bite out of fear.

If your dog is afraid of loud noises that you can predict -- fireworks on holidays, for example -- ask your veterinarian to prescribe a sedative for your pet just for those days.

For fearful dogs, your best bet is asking your veterinarian for a referral to a behaviorist. A veterinary behaviorist will work with you on a treatment plan that may include medications, counterconditioning, pheromones and even anti-static jackets in an effort to help a dog to relax when it's loud. -- Dr. Marty Becker

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET BUZZ

Cats shortchanged by many pet owners

-- Cats receive only half of the health care protection that dogs do, according to the North American Pet Health Insurance Association. In another study by the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association (JAVMA), pet owners with at least one dog and one cat in their household said they were more attached to the dog than the cat by a 3-to-1 margin. A third of pet owners surveyed believe it's more critical to take a dog than a cat for a wellness exam with their veterinarian, an alarming statistic as cats are less likely to show signs of sickness or pain than dogs.

-- One Maltese is now a million-dollar beauty, crowned with a $4.2 million tiara made by her owner, a Thai jewelry designer. The designer wanted to do something special for his 15-year-old dog and had a crown made for her from precious stones handed down to him from his mother. The crown took two months to make and is crafted out of titanium and 250 carats of emeralds and diamonds.

-- British pets are also experiencing the struggles of a poor economy. Last year the Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals reported the number of abandoned animals increasing by 57 percent. Britons have also increased their inquiries about giving up their pets by 52 percent. The United Kingdom's best-known animal rescue center, Battersea Dogs and Cats Home, in South London, is struggling to fit in more animals: Last December the charity reported taking in more than 1,000 more pets than it had the previous year.

-- One drug-detection dog wasn't at all slowed down by a novel attempt at distraction: The 31 pounds of marijuana the dog flagged were stashed in bags of dog food. The El Paso, Texas, drug dog wasn't deterred by the smell of dinner, resulting in the arrest of the 25-year-old Juarez, Mexico, man driving the dog food-loaded car. -- Dr. Marty Becker and Mikkel Becker Shannon

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books.

On PetConnection.com there's more information on pets and their care, reviews of products, books and "dog cars," and a monthly drawing for more than $1,000 in pet-care prizes. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

PET RX

Preparation key to safe air travel for pets

Planning air travel with a pet? Before your pet flies:

-- Talk to the airline. You'll need a reservation, need to know where and when your pet has to be presented, and what papers you'll need to bring. Airlines charge extra even for those pets who fly in a carry-on bag, so ask about fees in advance so you won't be surprised.

-- Be sure your pet is in good health. Air travel isn't recommended for elderly or ill animals, and is likewise ill-advised for the pug-nosed breeds of dogs and cats. Contrary to popular belief, it's generally safer for your pet not to be tranquilized before flying. Talk to your veterinarian.

For pets who'll be traveling in the cargo hold, use a hard-sided carrier designed for air travel, and make sure it's in good condition and all bolts are tight. You'll need food and water bowls, and bagged food duct-taped to the top of the carrier. Pets small enough to ride in the passenger cabin will be more comfortable in a soft-sided carrier.

-- Consider travel conditions. Don't ship your pet when the weather is extreme or when air traffic is heaviest. Some airlines offer terminal-to-plane transport in climate-controlled vans. Ask what provisions will be made to protect your pet and when the airlines will not allow your pet to fly because of weather conditions.

-- Choose a direct flight. If that's not possible, try for a route with a single connection and a short layover. Direct flights eliminate layovers, and short layovers reduce the time on the ground. -- Dr. Marty Becker

BY THE NUMBERS

Good dog, safe dog

Although free-roaming, vicious dogs are the stuff of our nightmares, we are statistically more likely to be bitten by dogs we know. Experts say the number of serious or deadly dog bites can be dramatically reduced by neutering and by raising animals to be well-socialized, well-trained family members (as opposed to having neglected outdoor "protection" dogs).

Here are some dog-bite statistics from the U.S. Centers for Disease Control:

-- 80 percent of dog-bite incidents involving children are inflicted by a family dog (30 percent) or a neighbor's dog (50 percent).

-- 75 percent of fatal dog bites were inflicted on family members or guests on the family's property.

-- 8 percent of dog bites involving adults were work-related (inflicted on such workers as meter readers, repairmen, etc.).

PET TIP

Bleach is a pet owner's pal

Anyone who has pets should be well-acquainted with one of the most common household cleaning supplies: bleach.

This cleaning staple can't be beat when it comes to keeping animal-related objects and surfaces clean. Cages, perches, litter boxes, nonporous toys and more can be cleaned with bleach -- diluted a half-cup to a gallon of water -- then rinsed with clear water and left to air-dry.

Diluted bleach in a spray bottle is also perfect for cleaning off countertops after preparing meals for pets (or other family members), especially if you make meals from scratch. You don't have to pay for a pre-mix either: Just buy a spray bottle, label it with a permanent marker and keep it loaded.

Be sure to use bleach and all household cleaners far away from pets (especially birds, who have very sensitive respiratory systems) and in a well-ventilated area. -- Gina Spadafori

Pet Connection is produced by a team of team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper, by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

We don't like declawing, and we don't recommend it as a first reaction to any behavior problems in cats.

That said, we understand how in some cases it's a cat's last chance to stay in a good home rather than face uncertain prospects at a shelter. And we know, too, that a well-done veterinary declawing with full pain control is no worse in the short-term than many other surgeries. But we still don't recommend it as anything except a last-chance alternative to losing a good home. In other words: It shouldn't be a preventive or immediately reactive approach to a behavior problem that can be dealt with in other ways.

That's because scratching is a natural and satisfying behavior for cats. It provides a good stretch, marks territory and keeps the claws in good shape. If at all possible, we'd rather a cat be allowed to be a cat in all ways, and that includes enjoying the pleasures of scratching.

If you absolutely, positively have no tolerance for scratching, one great alternative to declawing is to adopt a cat who has already been declawed rather than taking home a kitten and having him declawed. If you already have a cat who's driving you crazy clawing your couch, try the carrot-and-stick approach to changing the behavior to one you can live with.

The carrot: Offer your cat alternative places to scratch.

The stick: Make your furniture unattractive to a clawing cat.

The best investment you can make for your pet's enjoyment -- and your furniture's preservation -- is a cat tree with a high perch for your pet to look down on the family. (Cats like being above it all!) Sisal, a natural ropelike covering, is a good covering for cat trees, as is carpet with loops that aren't too shaggy. If you're even a little bit handy, you can make your own cat tree by using scrap lumber, sisal or carpet remnants.

You can make a cat tree even more appealing by playing games with your cat on the tree and by petting and praising him for scratching there. Some cats may enjoy having fresh catnip rubbed onto the cat tree as added enticement.

Cat trees aren't the only options. Add other approved places for your cat to scratch, such as vertical or horizontal posts, scratching trays filled with corrugated cardboard or scratching pads hung from doorknobs. Experiment to see what your cat likes best.

Once you have approved scratching areas in place, make the places your cat shouldn't be clawing unattractive by putting double-sided patches (such as Sticky Paws) or tape on the furniture. If the furniture fabric is too delicate, put the double-sided material on a piece of cardboard that wraps around the corner of the furniture. Cats hate to touch anything sticky, and so anything mounted sticky-side out will discourage scratching.

Start with your scratching alternative near the problem area. Your cat may shift his attention away from your furniture to the scratching post or tree. Offer praise and treats for good behavior.

Once your cat understands what the scratching post is for, you can slowly move it to the part of the room where you'd like it. Leave the sticky deterrent on the furniture during the retraining and be patient.

Keeping the sharp tips of claws blunt will also help to minimize damage from clawing. It's best to start clipping nail tips when your cat's a kitten, but most adult cats can learn to tolerate the procedure. Use a regular human nail-trimmer, and be patient as your cat learns to tolerate having the very tip nipped. Treats and praise are a must!

Declawing shouldn't be the first strategy for solving a scratching problem. Give your cat a chance to learn and follow the rule, and you will likely be pleased with the results.

Q&A

Keep toxic plants away from all pets

Q: Our cats like to shred houseplants, so obviously we want to make sure we have safe plants around. Can you offer any suggestions? -- D.P., via e-mail

A: If your cats love to nibble on houseplants, you're smart to make sure poisonous plants are not on the menu. Many common houseplants can make your cats ill, and a few can be deadly. Among the most dangerous are dieffenbachia, lily of the valley and philodendron. Various ivies and yews can be troublesome, too, and the bulbs of plants popular for "forcing" into early indoor bloom -- such as amaryllis, daffodils and tulips -- can cause problems for the cat who likes to dig and chew.

The Animal Poison Control Center (www.aspca.org/apcc) maintains a list of problem plants, and you should also be able to find such lists in most basic cat-care books. Check your household inventory against the "bad plant" list and replace any dangerous plants with safer ones.

You don't have to give up all your plants to your cats, however. Instead, keep some plants for nibbling and put other safe plants off-limits to maintain a lush indoor environment you and your cats can both enjoy.

Indulge your pets by keeping planters of sprouting grasses growing in an accessible place for nibbling. Special blends of seeds for cats are available in pet stores and specialty shops, or you can purchase rye grass seeds at the nursery. Catnip, too, is something that's always better when fresh, as is valerian. While not all cats react to the pleasures of these plants, those who do will appreciate your keeping it in-house and using fresh cuttings to recharge cat posts and toys.

When your cats have their own plants, you can work on keeping them away from yours. Plants on the ground or on low tables are the easiest targets, so make your houseplants less accessible to the bored and wandering cat. Put plants up high, or better yet: Hang them.

For the plants you can't move out of harm's way, make them less appealing by coating them with something your cats find disagreeable. Cat-discouragers include Bitter Apple, a nasty-tasting substance available at any pet-supply store, or Tabasco sauce from any grocery store. Whenever you find what your cat doesn't like, keep reapplying it to reinforce the point.

Pot your plants in heavy, wide-bottomed containers, and cover the soil of the problem plants with rough decorative rock to end digging. Foil, waxed paper and double-sided tape are also effective digging deterrents, but I don't like to recommend them as much because you're going to get tired of looking at these materials. Attractive, rough-edged rocks can stay in place forever. -- Gina Spadafori

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET BUZZ

Halloween a fright for veterinarians

-- Halloween is to veterinarians what April 15 is to accountants, reports Pet Connection contributing editor Christie Keith in her twice-monthly pet-care column for the San Francisco Chronicle's Web site (www.sfgate.com). She cites veterinary toxicologist Dr. Steven Hansen of the ASPCA's Animal Poison Control Center (www.aspca.org/apcc) in referencing that candy -- both chocolate and goodies sweetened with xylitol -- can sicken and kill many pets. Hansen says calls about pets who have become ill after eating candy spike to their highest levels around Halloween, noting that the center manages several thousand of these calls at this time every year.

-- Dogs do look like their owners. In a study from Bath Spa University, a group of non-dog owners was asked to match photos of 41 dog owners with one of three different breeds: the Staffordshire bull terrier, poodle and Labrador. Owners were matched to their dogs above the level of chance, showing truth to the statement that dogs look like their owners.

-- Care for therapy and service dogs can be pricey. Trained service costs range from $5,000 to $50,000, with some organizations donating dogs free of charge to those who need them, although the waiting list is usually long. Regardless of how the dog is acquired, the patient has the responsibility of keeping the dog fed, groomed and healthy. An average yearly food and routine veterinary bill is $1,500, according to Canine Companions for Independence -- and of course any health problems beyond routine care can increase the veterinary bills considerably. The high costs associated with service animals present a real challenge to many of those who rely on them, since 70 percent of disabled people are unemployed. -- Dr. Marty Becker and Mikkel Becker Shannon

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books.

On PetConnection.com there's more information on pets and their care, reviews of products, books and "dog cars," and a monthly drawing for more than $1,000 in pet-care prizes. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

PET RX

Rabbits need help with pain control, too

In the last decade, the veterinary profession has made huge strides in advancing the proper care of pet rabbits.

Rabbit medicine and surgery are taught in an increasing number of veterinary schools, and much more published and lecture materials are available to keep in-practice veterinarians up to date.

Despite these advances, there is still confusion regarding the use of pain relief for sick or injured rabbits. Some veterinarians do not use pain-relieving medications in their rabbit patients even though they routinely use these drugs in dogs and cats. But pain management is as important to a sick rabbit as it is to any other pet. Chronic moderate to severe pain can slow the healing process in addition to making life miserable.

Like other prey animals, rabbits will try to hide their pain, tending to become immobile in an effort to hide unusual behavior from any predator. That doesn't mean they're not hurting.

There are acceptable pain medications available for rabbits, and they should be given to help these animals with recovery. Talk to your veterinarian! -- Dr. Marty Becker

BY THE NUMBERS

What reptiles eat

If you're not comfortable feeding live prey to pets, you're probably not meant to keep lizards. Most of these pets like their food live, and their owners accommodate them. According to a 2004 study, top choices for feeding lizards include:

Crickets 72 percent

Worms 34 percent

Fruits/vegetables 31 percent

Dry formula 16 percent

Source: American Pet Products Association

THE SCOOP

Sharp puppy teeth go at 4 months

If you have a puppy in your home now, you will be delighted to know that those sharp little baby teeth will start being replaced by adult teeth by the age of 4 months -- going from 28 deciduous teeth to 42 permanent ones. But problems can occur with the changeover.

Sometimes baby teeth are retained after the adult ones come in, a situation that can cause many problems, including the misalignment of permanent teeth, incorrect development of the jaw and infections. Check your puppy's mouth daily while adult teeth are erupting to ensure that the baby teeth aren't being retained -- a double row of teeth, especially in the front, tells you that they are.

Have your veterinarian check any suspicious developments. Baby teeth that refuse to fall out on their own may need to be removed by your veterinarian. -- Dr. Marty Becker

Pet Connection is produced by a team of team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper, by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.