We get e-mails every day asking about "the farm."

What farm, you ask? The one where many imagine their unmanageable dog will be welcomed, along with countless others. A farm where dogs run leash-free, with no children to bite, no cats to kill, no home or yard to destroy, and no nearby neighbors to hear the barking, barking, barking.

"We can't handle our dog anymore," someone will write to us desperately. "We need to find him a home on a farm."

Of course, no such farms exist. The responsibility for correcting your dog's behavior problems rests solely with you. His quality of life is at considerable risk -- and likely his very life: Dogs with serious behavior problems whose owners give up on them are often euthanized after adoption efforts fail.

It doesn't have to be that way. While some behavior problems aren't fixable, most can be. To accomplish such change, though, you have to be prepared to put some time into changing the situation. Quick-fix, halfhearted efforts are doomed from the start.

The first rule of solving any behavioral problem is to make sure it's not a medical problem. Health issues that cause or contribute to behavior problems must first be accurately diagnosed and treated with the help of your veterinarian.

When your pet is healthy, your veterinarian can still be of use. While few veterinarians have the certified training or knowledge to help solve behavior problems, the number of those who do is growing -- and your vet may be one of them. Even those veterinarians who have no interest in behavior work can refer you to someone who can help. Loosely grouped under the term "behaviorist," these pet professionals can help you fix what ails the relationship you have with your pet.

Consulting a behaviorist can save you time, money and aggravation. Time, because someone with experience in animal behavior can quickly determine the root of the problem, without the emotional baggage that a pet owner may bring to the situation. Money, because a consultation or two is a great deal cheaper than replacing a chewed couch or blitzed landscaping. And aggravation? You'll understand that one if you've ever lived with a problem pet.

One of the best choices for help is a veterinarian who has received additional certification in solving pet-behavior problems. These professionals have gone through years of study in animal health and behavior and have done a residency in the field as well. One plus with this group: They can prescribe medications to help correct behavior problems as part of an overall program.

People with other academic degrees (such as psychology) and people who've picked up their knowledge in the field also make themselves available for advising on behavior. Some in the latter group can be excellent, so don't let a lack of degrees deter you from getting help from someone who has studied in the "school of hard knocks" (or would that be the "school of bites and scratches"?).

Behaviorists are not "trainers" in the sense of offering group obedience classes to sharpen a pet's manners. Instead, they work one-on-one with you to solve a specific behavior problem.

If you're in a situation where you're thinking of dumping your pet, ask your veterinarian for help, or call your closest college of veterinary medicine. And quit dreaming about that imaginary farm where all bad dogs are welcome. It exists only in those dreams.

Instead, get help to get the dog you dreamed of owning.

Q&A

Getting help with pet's noise fears

Q: Can you suggest some ways for us to cope with our dog's fear of loud storms? -- K.R., via e-mail

A: Some breeds and types of dogs seem to be more high-strung and sensitive to noise, but the truth is that any dog can become terrified of storms. After all, a storm is more than just thunder: The atmospheric pressure changes, the sky lights up, static electricity builds, and rain pounds on the roof. The smells in the air are so different that even we scent-challenged humans say, "Smells like rain." Imagine what an incoming storm smells like to our dogs.

Sometimes all you need to do is to eliminate the static electricity in the air: Try wiping your dog with a dryer sheet. It can really help.

For other dogs, fear of thunderstorms increases because their people mishandle the early signs of fear -- either by soothing the dog or by punishing her. Soothing a dog ("Poor baby! Don't be afraid. Come here and get a hug.") rewards the behavior, while punishing a dog makes a scary event even more frightening.

Sensitivity to loud noises is easier to prevent than to cure, unfortunately. When puppies and young dogs show concern, one strategy is to distract them. Give them something positive to do, such as starting a training session with lots of treats or playing a favorite game. In other words, ignore the storm, distract the dog and set the tone by acting unconcerned. With a new dog, the first time there is a storm, pretend it is an invitation to a "storm party." With every crack of thunder, respond, "Whoopee! That was a fun one. Here's your storm cookie!" Couple this with happy requests for simple obedience commands.

Once a dog has developed a full-blown phobia, though, the fear of storms is quite dramatic and can be dangerous. Some dogs may tremble, others may destroy their surroundings, and still others may bite out of fear.

If your dog is afraid of loud noises that you can predict -- fireworks on holidays, for example -- ask your veterinarian to prescribe a sedative for your pet just for those days.

For fearful dogs, your best bet is asking your veterinarian for a referral to a behaviorist. A veterinary behaviorist will work with you on a treatment plan that may include medications, counterconditioning, pheromones and even anti-static jackets in an effort to help a dog to relax when it's loud. -- Dr. Marty Becker

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET BUZZ

Cats shortchanged by many pet owners

-- Cats receive only half of the health care protection that dogs do, according to the North American Pet Health Insurance Association. In another study by the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association (JAVMA), pet owners with at least one dog and one cat in their household said they were more attached to the dog than the cat by a 3-to-1 margin. A third of pet owners surveyed believe it's more critical to take a dog than a cat for a wellness exam with their veterinarian, an alarming statistic as cats are less likely to show signs of sickness or pain than dogs.

-- One Maltese is now a million-dollar beauty, crowned with a $4.2 million tiara made by her owner, a Thai jewelry designer. The designer wanted to do something special for his 15-year-old dog and had a crown made for her from precious stones handed down to him from his mother. The crown took two months to make and is crafted out of titanium and 250 carats of emeralds and diamonds.

-- British pets are also experiencing the struggles of a poor economy. Last year the Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals reported the number of abandoned animals increasing by 57 percent. Britons have also increased their inquiries about giving up their pets by 52 percent. The United Kingdom's best-known animal rescue center, Battersea Dogs and Cats Home, in South London, is struggling to fit in more animals: Last December the charity reported taking in more than 1,000 more pets than it had the previous year.

-- One drug-detection dog wasn't at all slowed down by a novel attempt at distraction: The 31 pounds of marijuana the dog flagged were stashed in bags of dog food. The El Paso, Texas, drug dog wasn't deterred by the smell of dinner, resulting in the arrest of the 25-year-old Juarez, Mexico, man driving the dog food-loaded car. -- Dr. Marty Becker and Mikkel Becker Shannon

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books.

On PetConnection.com there's more information on pets and their care, reviews of products, books and "dog cars," and a monthly drawing for more than $1,000 in pet-care prizes. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

PET RX

Preparation key to safe air travel for pets

Planning air travel with a pet? Before your pet flies:

-- Talk to the airline. You'll need a reservation, need to know where and when your pet has to be presented, and what papers you'll need to bring. Airlines charge extra even for those pets who fly in a carry-on bag, so ask about fees in advance so you won't be surprised.

-- Be sure your pet is in good health. Air travel isn't recommended for elderly or ill animals, and is likewise ill-advised for the pug-nosed breeds of dogs and cats. Contrary to popular belief, it's generally safer for your pet not to be tranquilized before flying. Talk to your veterinarian.

For pets who'll be traveling in the cargo hold, use a hard-sided carrier designed for air travel, and make sure it's in good condition and all bolts are tight. You'll need food and water bowls, and bagged food duct-taped to the top of the carrier. Pets small enough to ride in the passenger cabin will be more comfortable in a soft-sided carrier.

-- Consider travel conditions. Don't ship your pet when the weather is extreme or when air traffic is heaviest. Some airlines offer terminal-to-plane transport in climate-controlled vans. Ask what provisions will be made to protect your pet and when the airlines will not allow your pet to fly because of weather conditions.

-- Choose a direct flight. If that's not possible, try for a route with a single connection and a short layover. Direct flights eliminate layovers, and short layovers reduce the time on the ground. -- Dr. Marty Becker

BY THE NUMBERS

Good dog, safe dog

Although free-roaming, vicious dogs are the stuff of our nightmares, we are statistically more likely to be bitten by dogs we know. Experts say the number of serious or deadly dog bites can be dramatically reduced by neutering and by raising animals to be well-socialized, well-trained family members (as opposed to having neglected outdoor "protection" dogs).

Here are some dog-bite statistics from the U.S. Centers for Disease Control:

-- 80 percent of dog-bite incidents involving children are inflicted by a family dog (30 percent) or a neighbor's dog (50 percent).

-- 75 percent of fatal dog bites were inflicted on family members or guests on the family's property.

-- 8 percent of dog bites involving adults were work-related (inflicted on such workers as meter readers, repairmen, etc.).

PET TIP

Bleach is a pet owner's pal

Anyone who has pets should be well-acquainted with one of the most common household cleaning supplies: bleach.

This cleaning staple can't be beat when it comes to keeping animal-related objects and surfaces clean. Cages, perches, litter boxes, nonporous toys and more can be cleaned with bleach -- diluted a half-cup to a gallon of water -- then rinsed with clear water and left to air-dry.

Diluted bleach in a spray bottle is also perfect for cleaning off countertops after preparing meals for pets (or other family members), especially if you make meals from scratch. You don't have to pay for a pre-mix either: Just buy a spray bottle, label it with a permanent marker and keep it loaded.

Be sure to use bleach and all household cleaners far away from pets (especially birds, who have very sensitive respiratory systems) and in a well-ventilated area. -- Gina Spadafori

Pet Connection is produced by a team of team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper, by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

We don't like declawing, and we don't recommend it as a first reaction to any behavior problems in cats.

That said, we understand how in some cases it's a cat's last chance to stay in a good home rather than face uncertain prospects at a shelter. And we know, too, that a well-done veterinary declawing with full pain control is no worse in the short-term than many other surgeries. But we still don't recommend it as anything except a last-chance alternative to losing a good home. In other words: It shouldn't be a preventive or immediately reactive approach to a behavior problem that can be dealt with in other ways.

That's because scratching is a natural and satisfying behavior for cats. It provides a good stretch, marks territory and keeps the claws in good shape. If at all possible, we'd rather a cat be allowed to be a cat in all ways, and that includes enjoying the pleasures of scratching.

If you absolutely, positively have no tolerance for scratching, one great alternative to declawing is to adopt a cat who has already been declawed rather than taking home a kitten and having him declawed. If you already have a cat who's driving you crazy clawing your couch, try the carrot-and-stick approach to changing the behavior to one you can live with.

The carrot: Offer your cat alternative places to scratch.

The stick: Make your furniture unattractive to a clawing cat.

The best investment you can make for your pet's enjoyment -- and your furniture's preservation -- is a cat tree with a high perch for your pet to look down on the family. (Cats like being above it all!) Sisal, a natural ropelike covering, is a good covering for cat trees, as is carpet with loops that aren't too shaggy. If you're even a little bit handy, you can make your own cat tree by using scrap lumber, sisal or carpet remnants.

You can make a cat tree even more appealing by playing games with your cat on the tree and by petting and praising him for scratching there. Some cats may enjoy having fresh catnip rubbed onto the cat tree as added enticement.

Cat trees aren't the only options. Add other approved places for your cat to scratch, such as vertical or horizontal posts, scratching trays filled with corrugated cardboard or scratching pads hung from doorknobs. Experiment to see what your cat likes best.

Once you have approved scratching areas in place, make the places your cat shouldn't be clawing unattractive by putting double-sided patches (such as Sticky Paws) or tape on the furniture. If the furniture fabric is too delicate, put the double-sided material on a piece of cardboard that wraps around the corner of the furniture. Cats hate to touch anything sticky, and so anything mounted sticky-side out will discourage scratching.

Start with your scratching alternative near the problem area. Your cat may shift his attention away from your furniture to the scratching post or tree. Offer praise and treats for good behavior.

Once your cat understands what the scratching post is for, you can slowly move it to the part of the room where you'd like it. Leave the sticky deterrent on the furniture during the retraining and be patient.

Keeping the sharp tips of claws blunt will also help to minimize damage from clawing. It's best to start clipping nail tips when your cat's a kitten, but most adult cats can learn to tolerate the procedure. Use a regular human nail-trimmer, and be patient as your cat learns to tolerate having the very tip nipped. Treats and praise are a must!

Declawing shouldn't be the first strategy for solving a scratching problem. Give your cat a chance to learn and follow the rule, and you will likely be pleased with the results.

Q&A

Keep toxic plants away from all pets

Q: Our cats like to shred houseplants, so obviously we want to make sure we have safe plants around. Can you offer any suggestions? -- D.P., via e-mail

A: If your cats love to nibble on houseplants, you're smart to make sure poisonous plants are not on the menu. Many common houseplants can make your cats ill, and a few can be deadly. Among the most dangerous are dieffenbachia, lily of the valley and philodendron. Various ivies and yews can be troublesome, too, and the bulbs of plants popular for "forcing" into early indoor bloom -- such as amaryllis, daffodils and tulips -- can cause problems for the cat who likes to dig and chew.

The Animal Poison Control Center (www.aspca.org/apcc) maintains a list of problem plants, and you should also be able to find such lists in most basic cat-care books. Check your household inventory against the "bad plant" list and replace any dangerous plants with safer ones.

You don't have to give up all your plants to your cats, however. Instead, keep some plants for nibbling and put other safe plants off-limits to maintain a lush indoor environment you and your cats can both enjoy.

Indulge your pets by keeping planters of sprouting grasses growing in an accessible place for nibbling. Special blends of seeds for cats are available in pet stores and specialty shops, or you can purchase rye grass seeds at the nursery. Catnip, too, is something that's always better when fresh, as is valerian. While not all cats react to the pleasures of these plants, those who do will appreciate your keeping it in-house and using fresh cuttings to recharge cat posts and toys.

When your cats have their own plants, you can work on keeping them away from yours. Plants on the ground or on low tables are the easiest targets, so make your houseplants less accessible to the bored and wandering cat. Put plants up high, or better yet: Hang them.

For the plants you can't move out of harm's way, make them less appealing by coating them with something your cats find disagreeable. Cat-discouragers include Bitter Apple, a nasty-tasting substance available at any pet-supply store, or Tabasco sauce from any grocery store. Whenever you find what your cat doesn't like, keep reapplying it to reinforce the point.

Pot your plants in heavy, wide-bottomed containers, and cover the soil of the problem plants with rough decorative rock to end digging. Foil, waxed paper and double-sided tape are also effective digging deterrents, but I don't like to recommend them as much because you're going to get tired of looking at these materials. Attractive, rough-edged rocks can stay in place forever. -- Gina Spadafori

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET BUZZ

Halloween a fright for veterinarians

-- Halloween is to veterinarians what April 15 is to accountants, reports Pet Connection contributing editor Christie Keith in her twice-monthly pet-care column for the San Francisco Chronicle's Web site (www.sfgate.com). She cites veterinary toxicologist Dr. Steven Hansen of the ASPCA's Animal Poison Control Center (www.aspca.org/apcc) in referencing that candy -- both chocolate and goodies sweetened with xylitol -- can sicken and kill many pets. Hansen says calls about pets who have become ill after eating candy spike to their highest levels around Halloween, noting that the center manages several thousand of these calls at this time every year.

-- Dogs do look like their owners. In a study from Bath Spa University, a group of non-dog owners was asked to match photos of 41 dog owners with one of three different breeds: the Staffordshire bull terrier, poodle and Labrador. Owners were matched to their dogs above the level of chance, showing truth to the statement that dogs look like their owners.

-- Care for therapy and service dogs can be pricey. Trained service costs range from $5,000 to $50,000, with some organizations donating dogs free of charge to those who need them, although the waiting list is usually long. Regardless of how the dog is acquired, the patient has the responsibility of keeping the dog fed, groomed and healthy. An average yearly food and routine veterinary bill is $1,500, according to Canine Companions for Independence -- and of course any health problems beyond routine care can increase the veterinary bills considerably. The high costs associated with service animals present a real challenge to many of those who rely on them, since 70 percent of disabled people are unemployed. -- Dr. Marty Becker and Mikkel Becker Shannon

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books.

On PetConnection.com there's more information on pets and their care, reviews of products, books and "dog cars," and a monthly drawing for more than $1,000 in pet-care prizes. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

PET RX

Rabbits need help with pain control, too

In the last decade, the veterinary profession has made huge strides in advancing the proper care of pet rabbits.

Rabbit medicine and surgery are taught in an increasing number of veterinary schools, and much more published and lecture materials are available to keep in-practice veterinarians up to date.

Despite these advances, there is still confusion regarding the use of pain relief for sick or injured rabbits. Some veterinarians do not use pain-relieving medications in their rabbit patients even though they routinely use these drugs in dogs and cats. But pain management is as important to a sick rabbit as it is to any other pet. Chronic moderate to severe pain can slow the healing process in addition to making life miserable.

Like other prey animals, rabbits will try to hide their pain, tending to become immobile in an effort to hide unusual behavior from any predator. That doesn't mean they're not hurting.

There are acceptable pain medications available for rabbits, and they should be given to help these animals with recovery. Talk to your veterinarian! -- Dr. Marty Becker

BY THE NUMBERS

What reptiles eat

If you're not comfortable feeding live prey to pets, you're probably not meant to keep lizards. Most of these pets like their food live, and their owners accommodate them. According to a 2004 study, top choices for feeding lizards include:

Crickets 72 percent

Worms 34 percent

Fruits/vegetables 31 percent

Dry formula 16 percent

Source: American Pet Products Association

THE SCOOP

Sharp puppy teeth go at 4 months

If you have a puppy in your home now, you will be delighted to know that those sharp little baby teeth will start being replaced by adult teeth by the age of 4 months -- going from 28 deciduous teeth to 42 permanent ones. But problems can occur with the changeover.

Sometimes baby teeth are retained after the adult ones come in, a situation that can cause many problems, including the misalignment of permanent teeth, incorrect development of the jaw and infections. Check your puppy's mouth daily while adult teeth are erupting to ensure that the baby teeth aren't being retained -- a double row of teeth, especially in the front, tells you that they are.

Have your veterinarian check any suspicious developments. Baby teeth that refuse to fall out on their own may need to be removed by your veterinarian. -- Dr. Marty Becker

Pet Connection is produced by a team of team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper, by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

Universal Press Syndicate

The first step in turning an adult dog into a reliable house pet is to embrace a key concept: There's no such thing as a "partially" house-trained dog. He either is or he isn't.

Why is realizing this important? Because if you have a dog who is "sometimes" reliable, you have a dog who doesn't understand what's required of him, probably because no one taught him properly in the first place. Punishing your pet isn't fair, and it isn't the answer: You have to go back to square one and teach him properly. No shortcuts here.

Before you start training, though, you must be sure that what you have is really a behavior problem and not a physical problem. This is especially true with a dog who has been reliable in the past. You won't be able to train your pet if he's struggling with an illness. So check with your veterinarian first for a complete checkup.

If you've ruled out medical problems, house-training an adult dog uses the same principles as house-training a puppy, except you have to be even more diligent because you need to do some untraining, too. And a lot of cleaning: You must thoroughly clean any soiled area with enzymatic cleaner (available through pet-supply outlets) to eliminate the smell that invites repeat business.

You'll need to teach your dog what's right before you can correct him for what's wrong. To do this, spend a couple of weeks ensuring that he has nothing but successes by never giving him the opportunity to make a mistake.

Here's how:

-- Leash him to you in the house so you can monitor his every move during his training period. If he starts to mess, tell him "no," take him outside, and give him a command for going ("go now" or even "let's hurry"). Then praise him for doing right, so he starts to understand what you want.

-- Put him in a crate whenever he's not on leash with you. It's not unfair during training to leave him in a crate for four or five hours at a stretch -- assuming, of course, that he's getting his regular daily exercise.

-- Take him outside first thing in the morning, as soon as you get home from work and just before you go to bed (when you put him in his crate for the night). Always remember to give your "go" command, and praise him when he does as you wish. People never seem shy about punishing their dogs, but too often forget to praise them -- they take it for granted the dog should do the right thing. Never, ever forget the praise!

If you've been consistent, your dog likely will get a good idea of what's expected of him within a couple of weeks, and you can start to give him a little freedom. Don't let him have the run of the house yet. Keep his area small and let him earn the house, room by room, as he proves his understanding of the house rules.

Accidents happen. If you catch him in the act, tell him "no," take him outside, and give him the chance to set things right. Give your "go" command, and praise him if he does. Clean up the mess inside promptly and thoroughly, so he won't feel inclined to refresh his smell there. Don't punish him for any messes you find.

If you aren't catching him, you're not keeping close enough tabs on him. Go back to the crate and leash, and start over.

If you continue to have problems, ask your veterinarian for a referral to a veterinary behaviorist. One-on-one assistance can pinpoint the problems in your training regimen and get you both on the right track.

Q&A

Pet costumes offer good time for most

Q: What do you think about the ridiculous habit of putting Halloween costumes on pets? What are you pet freaks thinking? -- J.G., via e-mail

A: I guess we're not in the dark about how you feel about dressing up pets. Here at the Pet Connection, we realize that putting costumes on pets is fun for people, so if it brings a smile to someone's face, why not?

For those who actually do like pets and are thinking about the holiday, here are some Halloween safety tips:

-- Costumes: If you buy ready-made, make sure the costume is comfortable and nonrestrictive, and doesn't involve anything that could be hazardous, such as dye or paint. Same goes for anything you make yourself: Be sure it isn't going to cause a problem for your pet, and monitor pets while they're wearing costumes.

-- Injuries: With the increase in activity, cats and dogs get nervous or excited, and some will take off if they can. That means an increase in animals being hit by cars. Other animals may also be a cause of injury: All those costumed young visitors can trigger territorial instincts or fear-responses in some dogs, who may then become a bite risk. Keep pets confined inside, away from the action, in a crate or behind a closed door.

-- Food problems: Candy is a problem more for dogs than for cats, because cats are generally picky about what they eat. Not so for most dogs, who'll wolf down candy -- wrappers and all -- if given the opportunity. Keep candy bowls and trick-or-trick bags out of reach of those animals who may be tempted to help themselves. -- Gina Spadafori

PET BUZZ

Pet theft seems to be on the rise

-- Is dog-napping on the rise? The American Kennel Club has kept informal tabs on the stolen pet numbers and says pilfered pets aren't uncommon. Last year there were media reports of at least 71 stolen dogs, with more than 100 thefts so far this year. Some states are considering legislation to strengthen penalties. Pets are stolen for many reasons, including keeping the pet as one's own, resale or trying to get a ransom. One California woman paid $10,000 to have her dog returned after it was stolen from her parked car. Crimes that occurred just in one month over the summer included a puppy stolen from the lap of a 5-year-old in a public Idaho park, a 16-week-old boxer stolen from the owner's yard in Oklahoma, and a Lhasa apso taken from a North Carolina backyard.

-- Petting a dog or cat has been shown to significantly lower the stress hormone cortisol, making us feel more merry, say University of Missouri researchers.

-- What is believed to be the world's most expensive dog recently changed hands for $582,000. The Tibetan mastiff known as Yangtze River No. 2 was purchased by a millionaire identified only as Mrs. Wang of the Qinghai province of northwest China, where there are many residents of Tibetan descent. A motorcade of 30 luxury cars met the dog at the airport when he arrived. Mrs. Wang already owns a Tibetan mastiff and has plans to mate the dogs. A Florida family's pet purchase seems a bargain by comparison: $155,000 for a Labrador named Lancelot Encore, which includes the cloning of the original Lancelot. -- Dr. Marty Becker and Mikkel Becker Shannon

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books.

On PetConnection.com there's more information on pets and their care, reviews of products, books and "dog cars," and a monthly drawing for more than $1,000 in pet-care prizes. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

THE SCOOP

Is your pet ready to be on the bed?

In many homes, the "pets on the bed" debate is long over -- and the pets won. Proof can be found in the marketplace, where accessories abound to help pets get onto the bed -- and keep the bedding cleaner.

The trend isn't for everyone, however. Letting pets sleep in the bed has been suggested as one of many reasons why people have problems getting a good night's sleep. If you have insomnia, you might consider getting your pet his own comfy bed and keeping yours for yourself. If you have allergies, or your pet has behavior problems, a no-pet bedroom is also recommended.

Otherwise, why not share?

I've always kept an eye out for sales on relatively inexpensive, washable cotton quilts to throw over the top of the bedding. I also use rubber-backed fuzzy bath mats on top of the quilts when older pets get leaky.

For high beds and older pets, there's even an easier way up: A number of manufacturers make pet-sized sets of steps to help aging or small animals get onto the bed or couch. Pet retailers have a wide selection to match your budget and decor. -- Gina Spadafori

BY THE NUMBERS

Buy big and save

Buying in bulk can make pet-food budgets go further, a cost-cutting strategy already popular with many dog lovers. Here's how bag sizes for dry dog food rank in popularity at the cash register:

5 pounds or less: 10 percent

6 to 10 pounds: 13 percent

11 to 20 pounds: 22 percent

20 to 40 pounds: 26 percent

40-plus pounds: 23 percent

Don't buy dry: 3 percent

No answer: 3 percent

Source: American Pet Products Association

PETS ON THE WEB

Pet your cat where he's comfortable

With a scratch-happy cat, always work to eliminate the triggers for unwanted behavior, and work on your cat's tolerance levels for being petted. If you're patient and consistent, your cat can learn to play nice.

Some kinds of petting are easier for cats to tolerate than others. For a highly reactive cat, restrict your caresses to behind the ears, under the chin or the base of the tail.

A long stroke down the back is too much for some kitties, and you're really taking chances when you decide to tickle your cat's tummy. The cats who enjoy it are greatly outnumbered by the cats who'll quickly tire of a tummy rub and will seek to stop it with teeth and claws. -- Gina Spadafori

Pet Connection is produced by a team of team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper, by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.