Universal Press Syndicate

Everyone wants a cat who'll spend these cold evenings serving as a purring lap warmer. But some cats need help to learn how to be that contented companion.

Feline aggression is often misunderstood and even more often mishandled. Never hit a biting or scratching cat, since putting your pet on the defensive will only make matters worse. Instead, learn to understand why cats bite and scratch, and learn to react in ways that will teach your cat rather than terrorize him. With time and patience, you can turn most quick-to-hiss cats into a pet who loves attention.

Make sure your cat is healthy before starting a behavior-modification program. A cat who's sick or injured will lash out, and can't learn. For cats who are completely out of control (as opposed to just a little claw-happy), getting a referral to a veterinary behaviorist is also a good idea. A veterinarian behaviorist can prescribe medications that can ease your cat through the rough spots as you get help with the program.

For most healthy cats, though, all that's needed is to learn why cats lash out when being petted and how to deal with them properly and patiently:

-- Overstimulation. You're petting your cat, and suddenly he grabs you with his claws and teeth. Not a full-powered attack, but you still have those sharp tips around your hand. What to do? In the short run, freeze. Don't struggle or fight back, or you may trigger a real bite. Sometimes smacking your other hand hard against a hard surface -- a tabletop, for example -- may startle your cat into breaking off the attack. If you stay still, however, he will usually calm down and release you.

That's the solution if you've gotten to the attack stage. The better option is to be familiar with your cat and his body language and stop petting before he becomes overstimulated. Cat lovers often think such attacks come without warning, but they've missed the warning signs of a cat who has simply had enough. The tail is the key. If your cat starts twitching his tail in a jerky fashion, it's time to stop petting. (See the sidebar on how and where to pet an easily overstimulated cat.)

-- Play aggression. Sure, it hurts all the same, but the cat who pounces on your feet and then careens off the wall isn't trying to hurt you -- he's playing. Instead of punishing your cat, redirect his energy. Increase your play sessions with your cat with an appropriate toy, such as a cat fishing pole or toy on a string, to help your cat burn off his excess energy before you try for a quiet petting session.

No matter what, never let your cat view you as a plaything, not even when he's an adorable kitten. Wrestling bare-handed with your cat or kitten is a no-no, because you're setting up a bad precedent. A stuffed sock is a great substitute for a human hand when it comes to playthings -- let your cat bite, claw and bunny-kick to his heart's content.

What if he persists in seeing you as a plaything? As with an overstimulated cat, stop the behavior by freezing. Don't give him a reason to continue the attack. You can also inform him that attacks on you are not permitted by letting him have it with a shot of water from a spray bottle.

With a scratch-happy cat, always work to eliminate the triggers for unwanted behavior and work on your cat's tolerance levels for being petted. If you're patient and consistent, your cat can learn to play nice.

SIDEBAR

Learn your cat's favorite places for petting

Some kinds of petting are easier for cats to tolerate than others. For a highly reactive cat, restrict your caresses to behind the ears, under the chin or the base of the tail.

A long stroke down the back is too much for some kitties, and you're really taking chances when you decide to tickle your cat's tummy. The cats who enjoy it are greatly outnumbered by the cats who'll quickly tire of a tummy rub and will seek to stop it with teeth and claws. -- Gina Spadafori

Q&A

Planning keeps parrots neater

Q: Do you have any suggestions to keep a parrot from pooping all over the house? I read in your "Birds for Dummies" book that parrots need playtime outside the cage, but I'm having a hard time dealing with the mess. -- B.D., via e-mail

A: If you don't want your bird to mess all over the house, don't let him roam all over the house. Instead, limit him to areas of the house that can be lined with paper or have easy-to-clean surfaces such as tile, hardwood or laminate flooring, and cover furnishings in those areas with old towels. (Caution: Kitchens may have those easy-to-clean surfaces, but they're not safe play areas for your parrot.)

House-training your bird may also help. With patience and consistency, many birds can be taught to relieve themselves on command, in a place of your choosing. Young birds seem to pick up the skill most quickly and reliably, but you can sometimes teach an older bird new tricks, too.

Start by observing your bird, noting the times of day he's most likely to relieve himself and the body language he uses just before, such as wagging his tail feathers. Pick your desired command: "Go potty" or "hurry up" will do, as will anything, just as long as you're consistent.

When you see your bird getting ready to go or you know it's the usual time he does (such as first thing in the morning), ask him onto your hand and hold him over a lined wastebasket, newspaper, paper plate or whatever "poop zone" you've chosen. Give your potty command and praise him when he obeys -- even though the response is just a coincidence at first, of course.

The larger the bird, the longer the time he can "hold it." Budgies and cockatiels aren't good for much more than 15 to 20 minutes, tops, while large parrots can hold it for several hours or more. Be aware that no bird can ever be expected to be perfectly reliable: Sometimes a bird just has to go.

Another suggestion is to use "birdy diapers" to catch some of the mess when your bird's not in his cage. One such product is the FlightSuit, a body-hugging harness with an absorbent liner. The product (starting at $16) comes in many colors and patterns and can be purchased from pet-supply retailers or from the manufacturer, Avian Fashions (www.birddiaper.com, 888-412-7667).

The best you can hope for is to minimize any mess and cleanup. Parrots are very messy pets, and cleaning up after them is part of having them around. -- Gina Spadafori

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books.

On PetConnection.com there's more information on pets and their care, reviews of products, books and "dog cars," and a weekly drawing for pet-care prizes. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or visiting PetConnection.com.

PET BUZZ

Secondhand smoke bad for pets, too

-- Secondhand smoke poses a severe health risk to pets, causing oral cancer and lymphoma in cats, lung and nasal cancer in dogs, as well as lung cancer in birds. One of the reasons cats are so susceptible to secondhand smoke is because of their grooming habits: As they groom, they literally "eat" the carcinogens that accumulate on their fur.

-- A family of proteins known to fight off microbes surprisingly also helps determine whether or not a poodle's coat will be black, white or somewhere in between. Researchers at Stanford University studied the DNA of hundreds of dogs, looking for a gene that controls coat color. They found, surprisingly, that the coat-color gene also controls a family of proteins that are thought to defend the body from invading microbes.

-- Robert Draper (author of "Dead Certain: The Presidency of George W. Bush") interviewed President Bush for thoughts on his presidency and found that he conveyed a level of sanguinity about his approval ratings. Draper recalled that in their last meeting, Bush pointed to his dog, Barney, and said, "That guy who said 'If you want a friend in Washington, get a dog' knew what he was talking about. ("That guy," by the way, was Harry S Truman.) -- Dr. Marty Becker

PET BOOKS

Making the most of senior years

Senior dogs and their owners can keep enjoying walks, favorite activities and tummy rubs well into the dog's old age. In fact, the golden years can be the best years of a dog's life, says Diane Morgan in "The Living Well Guide for Senior Dogs" (THF Publications, $20).

Morgan debunks myths about older pets, gives nutritional information based on the most recent studies on aging in dogs, and shares tips on grooming, behavior and health issues for older canines. Standout sections include adopting senior pets, travel, coping with disabilities and fun activities for aging dogs.

If there's an old dog on your sofa, this handsome book, with its pages of glossy photographs, is for you. -- Christie Keith

THE SCOOP

Birding a great activity for animal lovers

People who share their lives with pets are obviously animal lovers, so it's probably only natural that many pet lovers are active bird-watchers as well.

If you're not yet, it's easy to get started with birding.

Whether you're curious about who's showing up at your bird feeder or if you'd like to be involved in a more active form of bird-watching, "The Sibley Guide to Birds" (Knopf, $35) should be in your reference collection.

David Allen Sibley's book is notable for his truly astonishing illustrations -- nearly 7,000 in all. The guide is also well-organized and easy to use. Every beautiful, informative page in this book is a delight, a masterly work by one of the nation's top painters of wild birds.

"Of a Feather: A Brief History of American Birding" by Scott Weidensaul (Harcourt, $25) is another must-read for the would-be birder. The story of how birding grew in America from the days of the Pilgrims to today is as compelling as a good novel.

You'll also want to consider participating in the Cornell University Lab of Ornithology's Project FeederWatch (www.birds.cornell.edu/pfw/index.html). The Audubon Society's Christmas Bird Count (www.audubon.org/bird/cbc) started on Dec. 14, but you can keep an eye on the progress on the Web site (through Jan. 5, 2008).

These two winter projects have been running for years now and let "citizen scientists" do their good deed for the birds of the world and those who study them. -- Christie Keith and Gina Spadafori

PETS BY THE NUMBERS

Rabbit races to be a top pet

When it comes to small mammals as pets, rabbits are the most popular, followed by hamsters and guinea pigs. All small mammals are common children's pets, but most have considerable followings among adults as well. Among those households with small mammals as pets, here's how the animals ranked in 2004 popularity (more than one answer allowed):

Rabbit 43 percent

Hamster 36 percent

Guinea pig 20 percent

Mouse/rat 8 percent

Ferret 7 percent

Gerbil 5 percent

Chinchilla 4 percent

Source: American Pet Products Manufacturers Association

ON GOOD BEHAVIOR

Skip the collar for easy walking

A leash-pulling dog is one who often never gets taken for walk. In recent years, head halters and front-clip harnesses have helped people get the upper hand without punishing or hurting their dogs. The head halter can also make it easy to teach dogs other good behaviors such as "sit."

Although most pets come to enjoy or at least tolerate their head halters, initial introductions normally meet with resistance. (Front-clip harnesses seem to be accepted more readily.)

Introduce the head collar with treats and praise. Ignore any efforts to remove it, and praise your dog for moments of acceptance. With either of these tools, you'll soon be walking your dog with pride and pleasure.

(Animal behavior experts Susan and Dr. Rolan Tripp are the authors of "On Good Behavior." For more information, visit their Web site at AnimalBehavior.net.)

Pet Connection is produced by a team of team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper, by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

By Christie Keith

Universal Press Syndicate

Every pet lover with a computer has seen the e-mails and Web sites: the dire warnings on common household products, the miracle cures and behavior-fix products, and the well-meaning but ultimately wrong health-care advice.

The Internet can be the best or the worst place to do research on pet health issues. The trick is in figuring out how to evaluate the information you find, and how to locate the reliable information when you need it.

When you read information online, look for citations to veterinary literature and specific references to studies and clinical research. Just because something is cited in a medical journal doesn't mean it's correct or that it proves the point it's being used to support. But it's more likely to be reliable than a completely unsubstantiated statement.

We don't always have the luxury of waiting for double-blind studies in peer-reviewed journals to be published. The 2007 pet food recall was one such example: Pet owners had to make decisions based on very little information, coming at them from a wide variety of sources.

In situations like that, pet owners have to use other criteria to decide if a source is credible or not. For example, has this been a reliable source of information in the past on other issues? Is the reporting sensationalistic or overly cautious? Do the people involved with the Web site have any financial or professional affiliations that might make them less than objective about the issues? Do they have passionate agendas about health, nutrition or other issues that might also compromise their objectivity?

Watch out for all-or-nothing statements praising or condemning a specific drug, procedure, therapy or approach to health. A treatment that's right for one animal may be wrong for another.

There is a lot of information on the Internet, and a lot of it is well-organized, searchable and well-written -- yet totally wrong. However, usually if a site is badly spelled and punctuated, not easily searched, not well-organized and hard to navigate, the information is less likely to be reliable. Although there are exceptions, as a general rule: If someone is dedicated to providing well-substantiated information, they'll probably be highly motivated to make sure it's well-presented, too.

Press releases and point-of-sale "articles" are never a good place to get health information for your pets. Get your information from someone who isn't going to make -- or lose -- money as a result of your buying decisions.

One other tip: Testimonials are not evidence, proof or documentation. They are advertising. Ignore them.

Where do you start in the search for reliable pet health information online? Start with a careful search. Begin by typing in the name of the condition or disease (and spell it correctly!), and then add the species of your pet. For instance, "struvites stones dogs" (without the quotation marks) is a better search than just "stones."

The average pet owner looking for information online needs to walk a fine line, but not an impossible one. Just try to have both an open mind and a slightly skeptical one, and try to use a variety of sources instead of relying on only one.

And then discuss what you find with your own trusted veterinarian, to make sure the recommendations are appropriate and helpful for your own pet.

(Christie Keith is a Pet Connection contributing editor.)

SIDEBAR

Pet-care sites worth visiting often

Although many sites offer good information for pet lovers, here are a couple that really stand out:

-- VeterinaryPartner (VeterinaryPartner.com): The information here is medically solid and, because the site is owned by the Veterinary Information Network (a Web service for veterinarians), it's a bit more on the cutting-edge than many other mainstream pet health sites.

-- AltVetMed (AltVetMed.org): Founded in 1996 by holistic veterinarians Drs. Jan Bergeron and Susan Wynn, AltVetMed hosts a wide assortment of articles on complementary and alternative veterinary medicine, and some good information on conventional medicine as well.

-- Cornell Feline Health Center (www.vet.cornell.edu/fhc): Established by the late Dr. James Richards, Cornell University's feline health Web site, and the center in New York that operates it, is an unparalleled resource for cat owners, and the information you'll find there is eminently trustworthy and frequently cutting-edge.

-- DogAware.com (DogAware.com): Site owner Mary Straus is a researcher and writer for the Whole Dog Journal, and she has exhaustively assembled information on canine nutrition as well as a variety of health issues including arthritis and kidney disease. -- Christie Keith

Q&A

Why would a dog turn on owner?

Q: A couple of years ago, I adopted a 7-week-old dachshund mix. One night while lying beside him on a rug in our den, he attacked my face. Our veterinarian suggested he be put to sleep, which is what we did. I still love and miss him all the time. What could have made him turn on me? He was absolutely crazy about me. Any insight? -- J.H., via e-mail

A:. It is natural for you to grieve your loss.

You adopted a puppy in the middle of a critical socialization period. We don't know if your puppy attended socialization classes, puppy day care, or went through any other deliberate "schooling" in those early weeks. We do know that, one way or the other, he learned how to get your attention and what response to expect when he communicated what he wanted in canine language. Our guess is that he expected to get most everything he asked of you.

We love these little guys so much that we tend to cater to their cute ways. When our dogs look at us in a certain way or nudge us, we respond by giving what we think they want -- petting, food, play, a walk or even backing off. It's normal for a dog to believe under these circumstances that he controls the people who serve him.

The problem comes when the owner inadvertently does not follow a "canine command." Dogs may or may not growl before they bite. Instead, they may warn us by using body language such as freezing or tensing up -- a sign that people often miss.

You did not mention whether or not your dog had food, a toy or some kind of chew at the time he lunged at your face. Without seeing his body language and yours, and without knowing many more details about your everyday interactions, it is impossible to say exactly why he attacked you. (Medical problems or even mental health issues can also be at the root of canine aggression.)

If a dog feels control over his environment and his people, he is more likely to respond aggressively to enforce that control. So if your dog thought it was possible you were going to take away an object or even pet him without his permission, and if he tried to warn you by tensing up and you didn't understand his body language, then escalating to a lunge would be normal canine behavior.

If you decide to get another puppy, ask your veterinarian to refer you to puppy classes to help you learn how to raise a dog in ways to help prevent the development of canine aggression. -- Susan and Dr. Rolan Tripp

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET BUZZ

Nothing's too good for our pets

-- Pet owners are strongly attached to their pets and spend plenty on them, according to a survey in Veterinary Economics magazine. In a survey conducted by BN research on behalf of Banfield, The Pet Hospital, 68 percent of pet owners said they'd hire a pet sitter, and 48 percent said they'd spend any amount to keep their pet healthy. Other results: 42 percent buy gifts for their pets, 29 percent always carry or display photos of a pet, and 9 percent chose a vehicle based on the needs of a pet.

-- The canine distemper virus (CDV) can jump across species and infect and cause mass mortalities in wild carnivores such as lions, African wild dogs and several types of seals. CDV is in the same family of viruses as measles.

-- The Poop Pouch is a specially designed pouch that attaches to your dog's leash with Velcro and allows you to carry and hide your dog's poop out of sight. With a vinyl interior, the product is machine washable, comes in many designs and even has matching bandanas. Check out Pooppouch.net.

-- Progressive Auto Insurance, the nation's third-largest auto insurance group, has introduced a coverage option that allows customers to insure any canine or feline pets injured or killed in a vehicle crash. The coverage is being offered at no additional charge to customers who have standard collision coverage. -- Dr. Marty Becker

[Put ABOUT under PET BUZZ]

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books.

On PetConnection.com there's more information on pets and their care, reviews of products, books and "dog cars," and a weekly drawing for pet-care prizes. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or visiting PetConnection.com.

THE SCOOP

Declawing cats: Consider other options

If any one topic is sure to produce a heated discussion among cat lovers, it's declawing. The procedure is widely performed to end destructive scratching and is just as widely vilified as cruelty.

Declawing is the surgical amputation under general anesthesia of the last part of the toe, comparable to the removal of your fingertip at the first joint. The skin is glued or stitched over the exposed joint, the feet bandaged and the cat sent home to heal. In most cases, only the front claws are removed.

Although the procedure can be a successful way to curb destructive behavior, those who advocate against it argue that declawing is too often performed without even trying to train a cat, or is considered as a pre-emptive strike against furniture damage before a problem is even evident.

Scratching is natural and satisfying for cats, and you owe your pet the effort to teach him to scratch in appropriate places before you opt to declaw him. Frequent trimming of the nail tips can also reduce the destruction, as can glued-on nail caps, although both options do take ongoing work from the cat owner to maintain.

Declawing is perhaps best reserved as an option that should be considered when all others have failed and the cat is facing abandonment or euthanasia.

If you do choose to declaw your cat, you must keep him inside forever, because without his claws, he's less able to defend himself against dogs and other dangers. He can't swat with claws and has a harder time climbing to safety if attacked. -- Gina Spadafori

PETS BY THE NUMBERS

How big's your bag?

Buying in bulk is a time-honored strategy when it comes to making the pet-supply budget go further, and one that's quite popular with dog lovers, especially those with big dogs. According to the American Pet Products Manufacturers Association, here's how bag sizes for dry dog food rank in popularity at the cash register:

5 pounds or less: 10 percent

6-10 pounds: 13 percent

11-20 pounds: 22 percent

20-40 pounds: 26 percent

40-plus pounds: 23 percent

Don't buy dry: 3 percent

No answer: 3 percent

ON GOOD BEHAVIOR

Training should be fun

Young puppies should think of training as a fun game. Just as with a human child, motivation is key, especially when food treats are phased out. You want a puppy who enjoys learning from you for life. Once motivation is gone, it's difficult to get it back.

For this reason, before 4 months of age, build confidence and a positive attitude by avoiding corrections that may discourage your puppy and turn her off to training sessions. Use food lures and praise to shape new behaviors and set your puppy up for success.

Save corrections for when your puppy reaches adolescence -- testing limits and zoning out like a hormonal human teen. Then use words she knows, such as "sit," in a firm, insistent tone.

(Animal behavior experts Susan and Dr. Rolan Tripp are the authors of "On Good Behavior." For more information, visit their Web site at AnimalBehavior.net.)

Pet Connection is produced by a team of team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper, by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Universal Press Syndicate

Cats like places more than they like people, right?

Wrong. Your cat would rather be with you, no matter where you move to. But if you handle the days before and after moving day improperly, you're at a real risk of losing your cat. That's why it's important to take some time to do it right.

Cats are highly territorial and will seek out familiar places when stressed, which is why they attempt to return to their old homes. While you'll never manage a stress-free move for either you or your cat, you can make the best of the situation by keeping your pet secure before, during and after the move, and then by allowing your pet to gradually adapt to his new surroundings.

The best way to move your cat is to confine him to a "safe room" before and after the move, and to transport him from one house to another in a secure carrier. The ideal safe room is a spare bedroom or bathroom where your cat isn't going to be disturbed, and where he can be outfitted with food and water, a litter box, a scratching post and toys.

Don't feel bad about confining your pet. He'll be more relaxed in a small space where he won't be subjected to the stress of seeing people tromping around his house with the family belongings. Confining your cat also prevents him from slipping outside, which is a danger at both the old and new home. A frightened cat may be hard to locate on the day of the move if you don't make sure he's somewhere you can put your hands on him.

When you get to your new home, leave the carrier, with its door removed, in the safe room. Close the door to the room and leave him be while you unpack. Coaxing him out of the carrier with treats and praise is fine, but let him choose when and how much of the safe room he wants to explore. Never drag him out -- you'll upset your cat, and you might get scratched or bitten.

A couple of days after you've unpacked and things have settled down, open the door to the safe room so your cat can explore the rest of the house. Even if you plan to let him outside, keep him in for a couple of weeks. He needs to stay inside to start forming a bond with his new surroundings. Better still, make the most of the opportunity offered by a move and convert your pet to indoor-only status. Your new neighbors will appreciate it, and your cat will live a longer, safer life.

It's relatively easy to manage a conversion to indoor cat in a new home. He'd carry on like crazy in your old home if locked in, but in new surroundings he'll accept the change with little fuss. Part of the reason cats don't like to convert to indoor-only is because they've marked the outside as part of their territory and have a natural desire to revisit and re-mark it. A newly moved cat will learn to accept the territory he has been offered, and if the outdoors isn't part of it, he won't miss it as much.

Above all, don't rush your cat through a move. Confinement during the transition is also good for avoiding behavior problems that might pop up with the stress of moving. By limiting your cat's options to the litter box and scratching post in his small safe room, he will quickly redevelop the good habits he had in your old home.

Q&A

Birds can fly -- by plane!

Q: We're moving cross-country. We're trying to figure out if going by air is the best way to move our umbrella cockatoo. I'm not sure I could stand a long drive with him and the dog. Our college-age daughter (it's her bird, really) has volunteered to fly with him. Is that best? Or should we all go by car? -- W.T., via e-mail

A: This question comes up from time to time. Yes, birds can fly commercial. My "Birds for Dummies" co-author, top avian veterinarian Dr. Brian L. Speer, has offered some tips to help.

Speer says whether you're going by car or by plane, the first thing you'll need is a good carrier. He recommends altering a dog carrier for the job. Choose one that's made of high-impact plastic and is designed for air travel. Then make it bird-friendly by fitting it with a perch so your bird is off the floor and able to sit facing the door. For a cockatoo, the size for a small to medium dog -- not a tiny dog -- will do.

Before any trip, you'll need to make sure your bird's wings are clipped and that he's in good health. For air travel, you'll need a health certificate from a veterinarian.

But road trips can be fine, too, says Speer, who used to drive to work every day with his blue-and-gold macaw, Toby. Your bird will need a crate for car travel, too. At rest stops, give your bird a chance to get out and stretch his wings. To keep him well-hydrated, offer him fruits that have a lot of moisture, such as oranges and apples.

If you decide to go by air, your cockatoo will be riding in a pressurized cargo hold. Try to book a direct flight if possible, and try to avoid peak travel times. Your airline will have other requirements, so check well in advance. Plan to get to the airport early to make everything go smoothly.

As with travel by car, make sure your bird has fruit to keep him hydrated on the journey. Because of the value of a large parrot such as yours, Speer recommends wiring the crate doors shut to thwart would-be birdnappers. -- Gina Spadafori

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books.

On PetConnection.com there's more information on pets and their care, reviews of products, books and "dog cars," and a weekly drawing for pet-care prizes. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or visiting PetConnection.com.

PET BUZZ

Drugs in the litter box? Yes!

-- The war on drugs ends in the cat box. Mixing cough syrup, Vicodin, Lipitor and other leftover medications with cat litter, preferably used cat litter, is the new recommendation from the Substance Abuse and Mental Health Services Administration. This method is better for the environment than flushing old drugs down the toilet, and it renders the medication too yucky for consumption by drug abusers.

-- The U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention has formally declared that canine rabies has been eliminated from the United States.

-- Diabetes mellitus is one of the most common hormonal diseases of dogs. It's twice as common in females as in males, and the peak age at onset is 7 to 9 years old. The breeds most at risk include schnauzers, the bichon frise, Cairn terrier, Keeshond, fox terrier and poodles.

-- Experts at a symposium on canine vector-borne diseases -- illnesses that can be transmitted by dogs, in other words -- said that the numbers of blood-feeding parasites such as ticks are growing at an epidemic rate. Because ticks thrive in humid, brushy areas, global warming has contributed to the increased numbers of ticks and tick-borne diseases. -- Dr. Marty Becker

THE SCOOP

Some cats are big by nature

The average weight for a healthy adult cat is between 8 and 10 pounds, although among purebreds, what's normal can vary dramatically by breed. The Singapura, a rare breed whose lines trace to the feral cats of Singapore, is perhaps the smallest breed of cat, with some animals weighing in at less than half the weight of an average cat.

The Siberian, another rare breed, is said to be the biggest cat, with some animals topping the 20-pound mark. Other breeds that aren't quite as large but still qualify for big-cat status include the ragdoll, Turkish van, Maine coon, Norwegian forest and British shorthair. -- Gina Spadafori

PET Rx

Neutering necessary for bunnies, too

Unwanted offspring aren't the only reason why it's important to neuter pet rabbits. Just as with altering dogs and cats, altering rabbits eliminates many health and behavior problems.

Female rabbits, for example, are at a high risk for uterine cancer, a leading killer of these pets over the age of 2. Spaying also removes the potential for common and potentially lethal reproductive-system infections.

Besides extending your pet's life span, neutering eliminates sex-related behavior problems. Sexually mature rabbits can be territorial or even aggressive, and may spray urine.

Neutering is riskier for rabbits than it is for dogs and cats because the anesthesia is a little trickier. In recent years, however, advances in anesthesia have tipped the scales in favor of neutering as a preventive health measure.

Work with a veterinarian who is experienced with rabbits -- not all are. The final safety precaution is yours: Follow your veterinarian's pre- and post-operative directions precisely.

Neutered rabbits make for better pets -- and fewer rabbits. With rabbits now adding to the strain on shelters and neutering being safer than ever, there's no reason not to have your bun fixed. -- Dr. Marty Becker

PETS BY THE NUMBERS

Who trains the dog?

According the American Kennel Club's survey, the vast majority of dog owners train their own dogs. Here are the responses to the "Who'll train your dog?" query, with multiple answers allowed:

Train own dog 86 percent

Use books/videos 26 percent

Use private trainer 20 percent

Attend training club 8 percent

Attend pet store training 7 percent

Other training 4 percent

ON GOOD BEHAVIOR

Don't give in to naughty pup

Your puppy grabs your shoe and bounds away with a playful wiggle in his prance and a "you can't catch me" glint in his eyes. At that moment, resist calling your puppy unless you feel certain he will zoom to your side.

Instead, ignore him and get your hands on one of his toys. Then, with toy in hand, toss and catch it with all your attention on his toy. Do not even look at your puppy. Chances are your puppy will drop the shoe and will come over to play.

When your puppy knows the words "off" and "leave it" and will sit reliably upon request, you can approach the issue more directly. In the meantime, avoid losing the chase game and your temper.

(Animal behavior experts Susan and Dr. Rolan Tripp are the authors of "On Good Behavior." For more information, visit their Web site at AnimalBehavior.net.)

Pet Connection is produced by a team of team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper, by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

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