pets

'Net Pets

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | December 17th, 2007

By Christie Keith

Universal Press Syndicate

Every pet lover with a computer has seen the e-mails and Web sites: the dire warnings on common household products, the miracle cures and behavior-fix products, and the well-meaning but ultimately wrong health-care advice.

The Internet can be the best or the worst place to do research on pet health issues. The trick is in figuring out how to evaluate the information you find, and how to locate the reliable information when you need it.

When you read information online, look for citations to veterinary literature and specific references to studies and clinical research. Just because something is cited in a medical journal doesn't mean it's correct or that it proves the point it's being used to support. But it's more likely to be reliable than a completely unsubstantiated statement.

We don't always have the luxury of waiting for double-blind studies in peer-reviewed journals to be published. The 2007 pet food recall was one such example: Pet owners had to make decisions based on very little information, coming at them from a wide variety of sources.

In situations like that, pet owners have to use other criteria to decide if a source is credible or not. For example, has this been a reliable source of information in the past on other issues? Is the reporting sensationalistic or overly cautious? Do the people involved with the Web site have any financial or professional affiliations that might make them less than objective about the issues? Do they have passionate agendas about health, nutrition or other issues that might also compromise their objectivity?

Watch out for all-or-nothing statements praising or condemning a specific drug, procedure, therapy or approach to health. A treatment that's right for one animal may be wrong for another.

There is a lot of information on the Internet, and a lot of it is well-organized, searchable and well-written -- yet totally wrong. However, usually if a site is badly spelled and punctuated, not easily searched, not well-organized and hard to navigate, the information is less likely to be reliable. Although there are exceptions, as a general rule: If someone is dedicated to providing well-substantiated information, they'll probably be highly motivated to make sure it's well-presented, too.

Press releases and point-of-sale "articles" are never a good place to get health information for your pets. Get your information from someone who isn't going to make -- or lose -- money as a result of your buying decisions.

One other tip: Testimonials are not evidence, proof or documentation. They are advertising. Ignore them.

Where do you start in the search for reliable pet health information online? Start with a careful search. Begin by typing in the name of the condition or disease (and spell it correctly!), and then add the species of your pet. For instance, "struvites stones dogs" (without the quotation marks) is a better search than just "stones."

The average pet owner looking for information online needs to walk a fine line, but not an impossible one. Just try to have both an open mind and a slightly skeptical one, and try to use a variety of sources instead of relying on only one.

And then discuss what you find with your own trusted veterinarian, to make sure the recommendations are appropriate and helpful for your own pet.

(Christie Keith is a Pet Connection contributing editor.)

SIDEBAR

Pet-care sites worth visiting often

Although many sites offer good information for pet lovers, here are a couple that really stand out:

-- VeterinaryPartner (VeterinaryPartner.com): The information here is medically solid and, because the site is owned by the Veterinary Information Network (a Web service for veterinarians), it's a bit more on the cutting-edge than many other mainstream pet health sites.

-- AltVetMed (AltVetMed.org): Founded in 1996 by holistic veterinarians Drs. Jan Bergeron and Susan Wynn, AltVetMed hosts a wide assortment of articles on complementary and alternative veterinary medicine, and some good information on conventional medicine as well.

-- Cornell Feline Health Center (www.vet.cornell.edu/fhc): Established by the late Dr. James Richards, Cornell University's feline health Web site, and the center in New York that operates it, is an unparalleled resource for cat owners, and the information you'll find there is eminently trustworthy and frequently cutting-edge.

-- DogAware.com (DogAware.com): Site owner Mary Straus is a researcher and writer for the Whole Dog Journal, and she has exhaustively assembled information on canine nutrition as well as a variety of health issues including arthritis and kidney disease. -- Christie Keith

Q&A

Why would a dog turn on owner?

Q: A couple of years ago, I adopted a 7-week-old dachshund mix. One night while lying beside him on a rug in our den, he attacked my face. Our veterinarian suggested he be put to sleep, which is what we did. I still love and miss him all the time. What could have made him turn on me? He was absolutely crazy about me. Any insight? -- J.H., via e-mail

A:. It is natural for you to grieve your loss.

You adopted a puppy in the middle of a critical socialization period. We don't know if your puppy attended socialization classes, puppy day care, or went through any other deliberate "schooling" in those early weeks. We do know that, one way or the other, he learned how to get your attention and what response to expect when he communicated what he wanted in canine language. Our guess is that he expected to get most everything he asked of you.

We love these little guys so much that we tend to cater to their cute ways. When our dogs look at us in a certain way or nudge us, we respond by giving what we think they want -- petting, food, play, a walk or even backing off. It's normal for a dog to believe under these circumstances that he controls the people who serve him.

The problem comes when the owner inadvertently does not follow a "canine command." Dogs may or may not growl before they bite. Instead, they may warn us by using body language such as freezing or tensing up -- a sign that people often miss.

You did not mention whether or not your dog had food, a toy or some kind of chew at the time he lunged at your face. Without seeing his body language and yours, and without knowing many more details about your everyday interactions, it is impossible to say exactly why he attacked you. (Medical problems or even mental health issues can also be at the root of canine aggression.)

If a dog feels control over his environment and his people, he is more likely to respond aggressively to enforce that control. So if your dog thought it was possible you were going to take away an object or even pet him without his permission, and if he tried to warn you by tensing up and you didn't understand his body language, then escalating to a lunge would be normal canine behavior.

If you decide to get another puppy, ask your veterinarian to refer you to puppy classes to help you learn how to raise a dog in ways to help prevent the development of canine aggression. -- Susan and Dr. Rolan Tripp

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET BUZZ

Nothing's too good for our pets

-- Pet owners are strongly attached to their pets and spend plenty on them, according to a survey in Veterinary Economics magazine. In a survey conducted by BN research on behalf of Banfield, The Pet Hospital, 68 percent of pet owners said they'd hire a pet sitter, and 48 percent said they'd spend any amount to keep their pet healthy. Other results: 42 percent buy gifts for their pets, 29 percent always carry or display photos of a pet, and 9 percent chose a vehicle based on the needs of a pet.

-- The canine distemper virus (CDV) can jump across species and infect and cause mass mortalities in wild carnivores such as lions, African wild dogs and several types of seals. CDV is in the same family of viruses as measles.

-- The Poop Pouch is a specially designed pouch that attaches to your dog's leash with Velcro and allows you to carry and hide your dog's poop out of sight. With a vinyl interior, the product is machine washable, comes in many designs and even has matching bandanas. Check out Pooppouch.net.

-- Progressive Auto Insurance, the nation's third-largest auto insurance group, has introduced a coverage option that allows customers to insure any canine or feline pets injured or killed in a vehicle crash. The coverage is being offered at no additional charge to customers who have standard collision coverage. -- Dr. Marty Becker

[Put ABOUT under PET BUZZ]

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books.

On PetConnection.com there's more information on pets and their care, reviews of products, books and "dog cars," and a weekly drawing for pet-care prizes. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or visiting PetConnection.com.

THE SCOOP

Declawing cats: Consider other options

If any one topic is sure to produce a heated discussion among cat lovers, it's declawing. The procedure is widely performed to end destructive scratching and is just as widely vilified as cruelty.

Declawing is the surgical amputation under general anesthesia of the last part of the toe, comparable to the removal of your fingertip at the first joint. The skin is glued or stitched over the exposed joint, the feet bandaged and the cat sent home to heal. In most cases, only the front claws are removed.

Although the procedure can be a successful way to curb destructive behavior, those who advocate against it argue that declawing is too often performed without even trying to train a cat, or is considered as a pre-emptive strike against furniture damage before a problem is even evident.

Scratching is natural and satisfying for cats, and you owe your pet the effort to teach him to scratch in appropriate places before you opt to declaw him. Frequent trimming of the nail tips can also reduce the destruction, as can glued-on nail caps, although both options do take ongoing work from the cat owner to maintain.

Declawing is perhaps best reserved as an option that should be considered when all others have failed and the cat is facing abandonment or euthanasia.

If you do choose to declaw your cat, you must keep him inside forever, because without his claws, he's less able to defend himself against dogs and other dangers. He can't swat with claws and has a harder time climbing to safety if attacked. -- Gina Spadafori

PETS BY THE NUMBERS

How big's your bag?

Buying in bulk is a time-honored strategy when it comes to making the pet-supply budget go further, and one that's quite popular with dog lovers, especially those with big dogs. According to the American Pet Products Manufacturers Association, here's how bag sizes for dry dog food rank in popularity at the cash register:

5 pounds or less: 10 percent

6-10 pounds: 13 percent

11-20 pounds: 22 percent

20-40 pounds: 26 percent

40-plus pounds: 23 percent

Don't buy dry: 3 percent

No answer: 3 percent

ON GOOD BEHAVIOR

Training should be fun

Young puppies should think of training as a fun game. Just as with a human child, motivation is key, especially when food treats are phased out. You want a puppy who enjoys learning from you for life. Once motivation is gone, it's difficult to get it back.

For this reason, before 4 months of age, build confidence and a positive attitude by avoiding corrections that may discourage your puppy and turn her off to training sessions. Use food lures and praise to shape new behaviors and set your puppy up for success.

Save corrections for when your puppy reaches adolescence -- testing limits and zoning out like a hormonal human teen. Then use words she knows, such as "sit," in a firm, insistent tone.

(Animal behavior experts Susan and Dr. Rolan Tripp are the authors of "On Good Behavior." For more information, visit their Web site at AnimalBehavior.net.)

Pet Connection is produced by a team of team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper, by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

pets

Get a Move On

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | December 10th, 2007

Universal Press Syndicate

Cats like places more than they like people, right?

Wrong. Your cat would rather be with you, no matter where you move to. But if you handle the days before and after moving day improperly, you're at a real risk of losing your cat. That's why it's important to take some time to do it right.

Cats are highly territorial and will seek out familiar places when stressed, which is why they attempt to return to their old homes. While you'll never manage a stress-free move for either you or your cat, you can make the best of the situation by keeping your pet secure before, during and after the move, and then by allowing your pet to gradually adapt to his new surroundings.

The best way to move your cat is to confine him to a "safe room" before and after the move, and to transport him from one house to another in a secure carrier. The ideal safe room is a spare bedroom or bathroom where your cat isn't going to be disturbed, and where he can be outfitted with food and water, a litter box, a scratching post and toys.

Don't feel bad about confining your pet. He'll be more relaxed in a small space where he won't be subjected to the stress of seeing people tromping around his house with the family belongings. Confining your cat also prevents him from slipping outside, which is a danger at both the old and new home. A frightened cat may be hard to locate on the day of the move if you don't make sure he's somewhere you can put your hands on him.

When you get to your new home, leave the carrier, with its door removed, in the safe room. Close the door to the room and leave him be while you unpack. Coaxing him out of the carrier with treats and praise is fine, but let him choose when and how much of the safe room he wants to explore. Never drag him out -- you'll upset your cat, and you might get scratched or bitten.

A couple of days after you've unpacked and things have settled down, open the door to the safe room so your cat can explore the rest of the house. Even if you plan to let him outside, keep him in for a couple of weeks. He needs to stay inside to start forming a bond with his new surroundings. Better still, make the most of the opportunity offered by a move and convert your pet to indoor-only status. Your new neighbors will appreciate it, and your cat will live a longer, safer life.

It's relatively easy to manage a conversion to indoor cat in a new home. He'd carry on like crazy in your old home if locked in, but in new surroundings he'll accept the change with little fuss. Part of the reason cats don't like to convert to indoor-only is because they've marked the outside as part of their territory and have a natural desire to revisit and re-mark it. A newly moved cat will learn to accept the territory he has been offered, and if the outdoors isn't part of it, he won't miss it as much.

Above all, don't rush your cat through a move. Confinement during the transition is also good for avoiding behavior problems that might pop up with the stress of moving. By limiting your cat's options to the litter box and scratching post in his small safe room, he will quickly redevelop the good habits he had in your old home.

Q&A

Birds can fly -- by plane!

Q: We're moving cross-country. We're trying to figure out if going by air is the best way to move our umbrella cockatoo. I'm not sure I could stand a long drive with him and the dog. Our college-age daughter (it's her bird, really) has volunteered to fly with him. Is that best? Or should we all go by car? -- W.T., via e-mail

A: This question comes up from time to time. Yes, birds can fly commercial. My "Birds for Dummies" co-author, top avian veterinarian Dr. Brian L. Speer, has offered some tips to help.

Speer says whether you're going by car or by plane, the first thing you'll need is a good carrier. He recommends altering a dog carrier for the job. Choose one that's made of high-impact plastic and is designed for air travel. Then make it bird-friendly by fitting it with a perch so your bird is off the floor and able to sit facing the door. For a cockatoo, the size for a small to medium dog -- not a tiny dog -- will do.

Before any trip, you'll need to make sure your bird's wings are clipped and that he's in good health. For air travel, you'll need a health certificate from a veterinarian.

But road trips can be fine, too, says Speer, who used to drive to work every day with his blue-and-gold macaw, Toby. Your bird will need a crate for car travel, too. At rest stops, give your bird a chance to get out and stretch his wings. To keep him well-hydrated, offer him fruits that have a lot of moisture, such as oranges and apples.

If you decide to go by air, your cockatoo will be riding in a pressurized cargo hold. Try to book a direct flight if possible, and try to avoid peak travel times. Your airline will have other requirements, so check well in advance. Plan to get to the airport early to make everything go smoothly.

As with travel by car, make sure your bird has fruit to keep him hydrated on the journey. Because of the value of a large parrot such as yours, Speer recommends wiring the crate doors shut to thwart would-be birdnappers. -- Gina Spadafori

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books.

On PetConnection.com there's more information on pets and their care, reviews of products, books and "dog cars," and a weekly drawing for pet-care prizes. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or visiting PetConnection.com.

PET BUZZ

Drugs in the litter box? Yes!

-- The war on drugs ends in the cat box. Mixing cough syrup, Vicodin, Lipitor and other leftover medications with cat litter, preferably used cat litter, is the new recommendation from the Substance Abuse and Mental Health Services Administration. This method is better for the environment than flushing old drugs down the toilet, and it renders the medication too yucky for consumption by drug abusers.

-- The U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention has formally declared that canine rabies has been eliminated from the United States.

-- Diabetes mellitus is one of the most common hormonal diseases of dogs. It's twice as common in females as in males, and the peak age at onset is 7 to 9 years old. The breeds most at risk include schnauzers, the bichon frise, Cairn terrier, Keeshond, fox terrier and poodles.

-- Experts at a symposium on canine vector-borne diseases -- illnesses that can be transmitted by dogs, in other words -- said that the numbers of blood-feeding parasites such as ticks are growing at an epidemic rate. Because ticks thrive in humid, brushy areas, global warming has contributed to the increased numbers of ticks and tick-borne diseases. -- Dr. Marty Becker

THE SCOOP

Some cats are big by nature

The average weight for a healthy adult cat is between 8 and 10 pounds, although among purebreds, what's normal can vary dramatically by breed. The Singapura, a rare breed whose lines trace to the feral cats of Singapore, is perhaps the smallest breed of cat, with some animals weighing in at less than half the weight of an average cat.

The Siberian, another rare breed, is said to be the biggest cat, with some animals topping the 20-pound mark. Other breeds that aren't quite as large but still qualify for big-cat status include the ragdoll, Turkish van, Maine coon, Norwegian forest and British shorthair. -- Gina Spadafori

PET Rx

Neutering necessary for bunnies, too

Unwanted offspring aren't the only reason why it's important to neuter pet rabbits. Just as with altering dogs and cats, altering rabbits eliminates many health and behavior problems.

Female rabbits, for example, are at a high risk for uterine cancer, a leading killer of these pets over the age of 2. Spaying also removes the potential for common and potentially lethal reproductive-system infections.

Besides extending your pet's life span, neutering eliminates sex-related behavior problems. Sexually mature rabbits can be territorial or even aggressive, and may spray urine.

Neutering is riskier for rabbits than it is for dogs and cats because the anesthesia is a little trickier. In recent years, however, advances in anesthesia have tipped the scales in favor of neutering as a preventive health measure.

Work with a veterinarian who is experienced with rabbits -- not all are. The final safety precaution is yours: Follow your veterinarian's pre- and post-operative directions precisely.

Neutered rabbits make for better pets -- and fewer rabbits. With rabbits now adding to the strain on shelters and neutering being safer than ever, there's no reason not to have your bun fixed. -- Dr. Marty Becker

PETS BY THE NUMBERS

Who trains the dog?

According the American Kennel Club's survey, the vast majority of dog owners train their own dogs. Here are the responses to the "Who'll train your dog?" query, with multiple answers allowed:

Train own dog 86 percent

Use books/videos 26 percent

Use private trainer 20 percent

Attend training club 8 percent

Attend pet store training 7 percent

Other training 4 percent

ON GOOD BEHAVIOR

Don't give in to naughty pup

Your puppy grabs your shoe and bounds away with a playful wiggle in his prance and a "you can't catch me" glint in his eyes. At that moment, resist calling your puppy unless you feel certain he will zoom to your side.

Instead, ignore him and get your hands on one of his toys. Then, with toy in hand, toss and catch it with all your attention on his toy. Do not even look at your puppy. Chances are your puppy will drop the shoe and will come over to play.

When your puppy knows the words "off" and "leave it" and will sit reliably upon request, you can approach the issue more directly. In the meantime, avoid losing the chase game and your temper.

(Animal behavior experts Susan and Dr. Rolan Tripp are the authors of "On Good Behavior." For more information, visit their Web site at AnimalBehavior.net.)

Pet Connection is produced by a team of team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper, by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

pets

Be Safe for the Holidays

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | December 3rd, 2007

Universal Press Syndicate

Every year at this time we offer a list of the most common holiday hazards for pets: feeding problems, foreign-body ingestion and accidental poisoning.

The bad news is that many pets will end up at the veterinarian's office this holiday season. The good news is that yours won't be among them if you keep an eye out for these hazards. Be careful, and watch for:

-- Feeding problems. Foods too rich, too fatty or too spicy -- or anything your pet's not accustomed to -- can trigger a bout of intestinal upset. For some animals, the treat can trigger a serious inflammation of the pancreas or intestine, and that means a life-threatening illness.

What to avoid? Anything you wouldn't eat your pet should avoid, too. While a little bit of meat -- beef or poultry -- won't hurt and would be appreciated, steer clear of the fatty parts and the poultry skin, which also harbors fat.

-- Foreign-body ingestion. Cooked poultry bones may seem like the perfect gift for the pet who has everything, but do him a favor and save them for the soup. (Low-sodium poultry broth is a wonderful treat poured over your pet's regular food.) Even the largest cooked turkey bones are prone to splintering, sending shards through the animal's intestines. Should one pierce through the lining, the result can be deadly peritonitis.

While cooked poultry bones are out, some raw or cooked beef bones can be safely substituted. Knuckle bones (for large dogs) and oxtails (for small ones) stand up to vigorous gnawing, providing your pet with plenty of yummy, messy fun. Supervise your dog's chewing, and throw bones out after a few hours of attention or if they get broken into pieces that can be swallowed.

-- Dangerous decorations. The Christmas tree is full of hazards for dogs and cats. Tinsel can be an appealing target for play, but if ingested, it can twist up the intestines. This is a particular danger to cats and kittens, who seem to find tinsel -- along with yarn, ribbon and string -- especially appealing to eat.

Ornaments, too, are deadly in the mouths -- and stomachs -- of pets, and even the water at the base of the tree contains secretions that can at the very least cause a stomachache. Light strings are no good for chewing, and the whole tree can come down on the cat climbing in its branches. Some dogs may even be inclined to break the rules of house-training on a freshly cut tree -- why else, they reason, would anyone bring a tree into the house?

The best way to keep your pets out of tree trouble is by making the tree off-limits unless you're there to supervise. Putting the tree in a room with a door you can close is probably the easiest solution.

-- Poisonings. Holiday plants such as mistletoe may look intriguing to your pet, but they're also toxic, as are the bulbs of the amaryllis plant. (Long the poster child for holiday poisoning, the falsely maligned poinsettia can be safely welcomed into the pet lover's home.)

And before you share your holiday candy with your pet, be aware that chocolate is toxic to dogs and may be deadly to the little dog who gets a good-sized piece. Again, the best cure is prevention: Keep all dangerous plants out of the reach of your pets, and make the candy dish available to people only.

Stay safe this holiday season!

SIDEBAR

Poison control center a number to know

If you're not sure about what can be toxic to your pets, you might want to review the information on the Web site of the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (www.aspca.org/apcc).

The ASPCA's Animal Poison Control Center is where veterinarians call when they need quick answers for patients who've been poisoned, and the information provided to the general public on toxic plants and products is the best you'll find anywhere.

It's also a good place to check out the rumors that pop up on the Internet regarding various products. The APCC is prompt about investigating such dire warnings and about posting its expert opinion on the Web site on whether or not the concerns are justified.

Highly recommended: Order a free magnet from the ASPCA with the center's toll-free phone number. You can fill out the form online and expect your free magnet in six to eight weeks.

Q&A

Keeping loose dogs from attacking

Q: How do I defend myself and my dog when out walking and other dogs come at us? Generally, our morning walks are uneventful, but I need advice on how to deal with the occasional surprises. -- K.J., via e-mail

A: When it comes to professional pet behavioral advice, nothing works all the time and everything works some of the time. With that disclaimer in place, we can tell you that when facing a potential canine challenger, your best bet is to communicate with body language to thwart an attack.

Deter canine confrontations by sending clear signals in dog language that no threat exists. When you see a loose dog making a beeline in your direction, put your dog on a down-stay. Simply lowering your dog's position and posture communicates to the loose dog, "I'm not here to fight or challenge you." You dog is essentially saying "Uncle" before a confrontation starts.

Although your heart may be pounding, demonstrate emotional leadership. Take a deep breath and exhale so your own dog can hear you, letting all your tension out to signal your dog to also relax. We lower our dog's arousal rate by lowering our own.

Keep your side toward the loose dog so you can glance at him but not stare. Keeping a relaxed and loose muscle tone, stand tall in front of your dog to keep your dog's attention on you. If you see your dog begin to move, calmly yet firmly insist that your dog stay. Stand on the leash to prevent your dog from suddenly leaping up in response to the approaching dog.

When dogs are on leash, they are more likely to fight defensively because they cannot get away. Your dog must learn to rely on your leadership and be well-trained in advance before you can expect him to follow your instructions when on leash -- especially when challenged.

Keep in mind, there are dogs -- as there are people -- who suffer from mental illness. If the loose dog was not properly socialized to other dogs as a pup, he may not read canine body language or respond well.

When dogs are not trained and live boring lives, they also create their own jobs, such as barking at mail carriers. Regardless of whether the other dog is attacking to protect his space or exercising his macho ego or simply having some fun, your best bet is to simply ignore him.

Do not turn your back and retreat or run. If the dog attacks you, stand like a tree and fall like a rock with your arms covering your neck, and let your dog fend for himself. Rarely will your situation come to this extreme, but now you know what to do. -- Susan and Dr. Rolan Tripp, AnimalBehavior.net

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET BUZZ

Harness your dog and take a hike

-- "Mushing" is a general term for a transportation method powered by dogs. The term is thought to come from the French word "marcher," or "to move" (the command to the team to commence pulling). "Mush!" is rarely used today. Instead, "Hike!" is more common in English.

-- According to the National Retail Federation, more than 7.4 million households dressed up their pets for Halloween. The most popular dog costumes were devils, pumpkins and witches, but other costumes -- such as a peacock and a mini-Princess Leia from "Star Wars" -- also sold. There are even costumes for turtles, such as a fin that makes the turtle look like a shark as he goes through the water.

-- "When the old dog barks it is time to watch." -- Latin proverb

-- The Wall Street Journal reports that Asia is getting passionate about pets. As proof, the newspaper traces the rise of pet-friendly cafes in places like South Korea where patrons can socialize with resident pets. For people who want to go a step further, there are businesses that rent pets by the hour, day or week. Most popular -- and pricey: pugs and St. Bernards. -- Dr. Marty Becker

[Put ABOUT PET CONNECTION here, under BUZZ]

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books.

On PetConnection.com there's more information on pets and their care, reviews of products, books and "dog cars," and a weekly drawing for pet-care prizes. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or visiting PetConnection.com.

THE SCOOP

Christmas not best time for puppy

Despite the warnings of those in the know, every year parents give in to the begging of their children and pop for a puppy.

The attraction is understandable: Who doesn't love a puppy, and who wouldn't want to delight a child? But there are reasons why shelters, rescue groups and responsible breeders are uniform in their advice to think twice about a Christmas puppy.

Christmas puppies are often a parent's headache by February, when the animals are still not house-trained, the kids are tired of the responsibilities involved in caring for a pet, and it's still too cold and dark outside for dog-training after work and school.

Puppies are not toys. They are living, breathing beings who need a lot of attention. Who has time for a pup during the holidays, that stressful season of socializing and shopping? With a houseful of guests and a holiday dinner to prepare, who will make sure the puppy isn't being mauled by overly enthusiastic children and guests? Who has time to get house-training started right?

Dogs who grow up unhouse-trained, unmannered and unsocialized too often never get a chance to grow up much at all. From summer to fall, pet experts hear from people who are tearing out their hair over their now-adolescent Christmas puppies. Some people work with the dogs, but many just dump them.

Dogs can be great for children, and children can be great with dogs. But Christmas is not the best time to launch such a promising relationship. Somebody has to be the grown-up here, and if you're the parent, it should be you. Wait until late spring or early summer to find the perfect pup, and get your pet off to a great start. -- Gina Spadafori

PETS BY THE NUMBERS

Spending on pets increases

According to a 2004 survey, more than half of those with companion animals are spending more on their pets than they were three years ago. The responses to the question on spending increase:

Spending more 53 percent

Spending less 5 percent

Same amount 22 percent

Didn't have a pet 14 percent

Don't know 6 percent

Source: American Animal Hospital Association

ON GOOD BEHAVIOR

Young pets need short lessons

Don't push your luck when it comes to keeping the attention of your puppy or kitten. Engaging your pet in frequent, shorter training sessions is more effective than long, periodic lessons for teaching youngsters.

Look for a few good responses, and try to end each lesson before your pet shows any sign of losing interest. Ideally, each lesson should end on one of your pet's best responses and your best praises. You want your pet to remember that best response and be eager for the next lesson -- not dread it.

Be an exciting teacher, not a boring one. When your pet associates your time plus food with learning specific behaviors, he'll naturally repeat those behaviors to earn your attention and food rewards. It's that simple!

(Animal behavior experts Susan and Dr. Rolan Tripp are the authors of "On Good Behavior." For more information, visit their Web site at AnimalBehavior.net.)

Pet Connection is produced by a team of team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper, by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

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