Universal Press Syndicate

Many dogs enjoy swimming as much as people do, and cool times in the local swimming spot or backyard pool are one of the best parts of summer. But you have to look out for your pet around water, since even the strongest, most enthusiastic swimmers can get into trouble.

The keys to water safety for dogs: prevention, preparedness and awareness.

-- Prevention: No dog should be given unsupervised access to a backyard pool or a neighborhood pond or creek. Swimming pools are best fenced off for safety. And if that's not possible, they should be equipped with alarms that sound when the surface of the water is broken by a child or pet falling in. Escape tools like the Skamper-Ramp (www.skamper-ramp.com; 1-877-766-5738) are a good idea, but it's better to prevent pets from getting in unsupervised in the first place.

Prevention also includes teaching your pet what to do when he's in the pool. Dogs don't get the idea that the steps are on one side only, and they may tire and drown trying to crawl out the side. If your pet likes to swim, work with him in the pool to help him learn where the steps are so he can get out easily.

Finally, obedience training is extremely important. Your dog should come when called, even when swimming, so you can call him back before he heads into deeper water or stronger currents. Emergency shortcut: Always carry extra retrieving toys. A dog who's heading out into a dangerous area after a ball or stick can often be lured back into shore with a second item thrown closer in. It's no substitute for training, but it could save your dog's life.

-- Preparedness: Before letting your dog swim in any natural surroundings, survey the area for safety. Rivers and oceans can change frequently, and an area that was safe for swimming one visit can be treacherous the next. Consider currents, tides, underwater hazards and even the condition of the water. In the late summer, algae scum on the top of standing water can be toxic, producing substances that can kill a pet who swallows the tainted water.

When in doubt, no swimming. Better safe than sorry.

One of the best things you can do is take courses in first aid and CPR for your pets. Many local Red Cross chapters offer these classes, and some veterinarians may also teach them in your community. A dog who's pulled out near death from drowning may be saved by your prompt actions -- if you know what to do.

If your dog isn't much of a swimmer, or is older or debilitated, get him a personal floatation device. These are especially great for family boating trips because most have sturdy handles for rescue when a pet goes overboard.

-- Awareness: Be aware of your dog's condition as he plays. Remember that even swimming dogs can get hot, so bring fresh water and offer it constantly. When your dog is tiring, be sure to call it a day. A tired dog is a good dog, but an exhausted dog is in danger of drowning.

-- Be particularly careful of young and old dogs. Both can get themselves into more trouble when a healthy adult dog with lots of swimming experience. Young dogs can panic in the water, and old dogs may not realize they aren't as strong as they used to be. Keep them close to shore, and keep swimming sessions short.

Swimming is great exercise and great fun for all, and with these few simple precautions you can keep the cool times coming, with safety in mind.

SIDEBAR

Perfect pool play in a small way

Just as it seems that as many "baby" gates are purchased for pets as for children, the ubiquitous kiddie pool has thoroughly gone to the dogs.

The small pools made of hard plastic are perfect for dogs of all sizes, providing a tummy-cooling wallow for an overheated retriever or a safe way to wade for a swim-challenged pug. (Be sure choose the hard-plastic variety; the inflatable kind doesn't hold up well to dog claws.)

Always supervise the pool's use, to prevent any accidents.

Kept clean and stored in a covered spot for winter, a kiddie pool will last for many seasons. Just remember in the summer that standing water is a perfect breeding ground for mosquitoes and toxic algae, so rinse it clean after every use and refill it with fresh water every time. -- Gina Spadafori

Q&A

Managing fear of bad storms

Q: Can you suggest some ways for us to cope with our dog's fear of thunderstorms? They are a constant problem in our part of the country, and our dog is miserable. -- K.R., via e-mail

A: Some breeds and types of dogs seem to be more high-strung and sensitive to noise, but the truth is that any dog can become terrified of storms. After all, a storm is more than just thunder: The atmospheric pressure changes, the sky lights up, static electricity builds and rain pounds on the roof. The smells in the air are so different that even we scent-challenged humans say, "Smells like rain." Imagine what an incoming storm smells like to our dogs!

For some dogs, fear of thunderstorms increases because their people mishandle the early signs of fear -- either by soothing the dog or by punishing her. Soothing a dog ("Poor baby! Don't be afraid. Come here and get a hug.") rewards the behavior, while punishing a dog makes a scary event even more frightening.

Sensitivity to thunder is easier to prevent than to cure, unfortunately. When puppies and young dogs show concern, one strategy is to distract them. Give them something positive to do, such as starting a training session with lots of treats, or playing a favorite game. In other words, ignore the storm, distract the dog and set the tone by acting unconcerned. With a new dog, the first time there is a storm, pretend it is an invitation to a "storm party." With every crack of thunder, respond, "Whoopee! That was a fun one, here's your storm cookie!" Couple this with happy requests for simple obedience commands.

Once a dog has developed a full-blown phobia, though, the fear of storms is quite dramatic and can be dangerous. Some dogs may tremble, others may destroy their surroundings, and still others may bite out of fear.

If your dog is afraid of loud noises that you can predict -- fireworks on holidays, for example -- ask your veterinarian to prescribe a sedative for your pet just for those days.

For fearful dogs who live in areas that get a lot of thunderstorms, your best bet is asking your veterinarian for a referral to a behaviorist. A veterinary behaviorist will work with you on a treatment plan that may include medications, counter-conditioning, pheromones and even anti-static jackets in an effort to help a dog to relax during storms. -- Dr. Marty Becker

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books.

On PetConnection.com there's more information on pets and their care, reviews of products, books and "dog cars," and a weekly drawing for pet-care prizes. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or visiting PetConnection.com.

PET BUY

Clever brush keeps your pet's toys clean

For years, trainers and behaviorists have recommended stuffing hollow toys such as the popular Kong with peanut butter and bits of dog treats, cheese and more. The idea is that giving a stuffed Kong -- or other toy that can be chewed on safely -- as a special treat to keep a dog busy while he's alone will prevent destruction of household items.

Most of these toys seem to clean up pretty well when run through the dishwasher, impaled on one of the rack spines of the top shelf. But sometimes there's just a little bit of food that never seems to come out ... until now.

The Bamboo Toy Cleaning Brush ($8 from pet-supply retailers) is like a bottle brush, but shaped for use in toys like the Kong, wider at the bottom than the top. There's a smaller brush hidden in the handle, and a suction cup on the bottom for leaving the cleaner upright for air-drying. A pretty clever solution for a problem that most people didn't know they had until they realized it -- and needed something to fix it! -- Gina Spadafori

PET TIP

A cheap fix for a skunk hit

Every summer I get requests from people who "kind of remember" that skunk smell solution, but can't find where they filed the information. And then the dog comes in ... stinking. Here's the cure:

Take 1 quart of 3 percent hydrogen peroxide, 1/4 cup of baking soda, and 1 teaspoon of liquid dishwashing soap, such as Ivory. Mix and immediately apply to the stinky pet. Rinse thoroughly with tap water.

You can double or triple the recipe if you have a big dog, but always get the solution on your pet as quickly as you can after you combine the ingredients. The chemical reaction is what eliminates the skunk smell, and it doesn't last long.

Don't mix up the solution in advance, and don't try to store it in a closed bottle -- it'll burst any closed container you put it in. But do keep the ingredients on hand ... just in case.

Commercial products are available that do a pretty good job, as well. And what about that old standby, tomato juice? Use it and what you'll end up with is a pink dog who still stinks -- maybe just not quite as much. -- Gina Spadafori

THE SCOOP

People, dogs have different opinions on what constitutes a 'good' smell

You know those sprays and plug-ins you use to make the house smell fresh? Your dog is not impressed. If your dog were choosing a scent to make the house smell perfect, she might pick Old Dead Squirrel or Pile o'Cat Poop.

As much as we love our dogs, we have a difference of opinion when it comes to defining what smells "good." Considering that our dogs' sense of smell is hundreds of times better than ours, who's to say which species is right about what smells the best?

Now, about that rolling in those malodorous messes. It's pretty simple, actually: People like to put on nice scents, and so do dogs.

One theory on stink-rolling is that it represents a canine celebration of abundance. Now and then a dog will encounter a rewarding tidbit with a pungent smell; it's like a person finding a $20 bill on the ground. Sweet! It's certainly a good reason to stick a canine nose as close to the scent source as possible and inhale all that wonderful aroma. But to discover an entire rotting fish or some other large pile of nastiness often triggers the urge to celebrate with a hearty roll; like a person who won the lottery throwing $100 bills all over the bed and "rolling in dough."

There's a survival element, too. For a hunting animal, there's a tactical advantage to not smelling like a predator: The prey don't know that you're coming. Rolling in strong odors -- feces and even dead animals -- is thought to provide scent cover, to help predators land their lunch a little more easily.

Of course, none of our pet dogs have to hunt for their supper, but old instincts never really go away. That's why if there's a bad smell available, there's a good dog happy to roll in it. And not long after, a spoilsport human with warm water and soap ready to ruin it all -- from the dog's point of view. -- Dr. Marty Becker

BY THE NUMBERS

Stop, in the name of love

According to the American Veterinary Medical Association, people struggling to quit smoking can find extra motivation from their pets. The AVMA says owners who smoke are more likely to have dogs with lung and nasal sinus cancer, and cats who have lymphoma. When smokers are told that secondhand smoke can hurt their pets:

-- 22.3 percent would think about quitting smoking

-- 32.2 percent would try to quit.

-- 33.1 percent would ban smoking indoors.

-- 42.5 percent would ask others not to smoke indoors

ON GOOD BEHAVIOR

Punishment sends the wrong message

If you spare the rod, do you spoil the pet? Many pet owners spank their kittens and puppies, hoping to teach the pet a lesson when in fact what they're teaching the animal is that humans are not to be trusted.

For example, your puppy races to you happily when called but jumps up. You spank the puppy for jumping up. Your happy puppy learns not to come when called because that's when you get really angry. Or your cat swats at you and you hit him or kick back. The cat learns never to get close to you, again. That was not the lesson you intended to teach, was it?

Pets who are physically punished tend to develop unstable personalities. They become more aloof, skittish, hand-shy and aggressive.

Pet Connection is produced by a team of team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper, by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Universal Press Syndicate

My first parrot, Patrick the little Senegal, was a reclamation project. He'd been abandoned at his veterinarian after attempts to combat his desire to pick himself naked failed, as did his first owner's enthusiasm for keeping a bird who looked like a, well, plucked chicken.

With the help of a top avian veterinarian -- my "Birds for Dummies" co-author Dr. Brian Speer -- we got most of Patrick's plumage to regrow. But the desire to self-destruct never truly left him, and he died after an attempt to repair a hole in his chest he'd dug himself, for reasons only his own troubled bird brain could fathom.

Eddie the caique parrot, who lives with me now, is a bird of far fewer physical and mental torments, and I've worked hard to keep him that way. The combination of a better start in life and an owner dedicated to keeping him healthy and happy shows in his healthy plumage and playful outlook.

But I know that this could change, despite my best efforts.

If there's one parrot problem that has both bird owners and veterinarians pulling out their own hair in frustration, it would have to be feather-picking, a bird's willful destruction of his own plumage.

The first thing you need to know about this problem: Feather-picking is a symptom of something else that's wrong with your bird. The only hope you have of "curing" feather-picking is finding out and treating what's behind the behavior. Feather-picking relates to a staggering variety of problems, and any one (or any combination) of the following can be at the bottom of your bird's plucking.

-- Health problems. Medical conditions behind feather-picking include allergies, parasitic infections, bacterial infections, abnormal growths (cysts) in the feather follicle, internal health problems, vitamin deficiencies and hormone-associated problems. And that's the short list.

-- Low humidity. Many bird species originally come from extremely hot and humid environments, and our houses can't hope to duplicate the conditions of a rain forest (we'd be miserable). The dry, cool air of most houses can be a factor in feather-picking and can also set the stage for some secondary medical problems.

-- Boredom and pent-up energy. Birds are active and intelligent, and they don't handle the strain of being forced to sit around in a cage all day very well. Without things to play with and stuff to destroy, and without being able to get out of the cage and exercise, birds may direct all their energy toward self-mutilation.

-- Psychological problems. Although birds need to have their wings trimmed for safety, a bad wing trim -- too short, with no allowance for an "easy landing" -- can upset a bird so badly that he starts tearing at himself. Obsessive-compulsive disorders can also trigger feather-picking.

-- Attention-seeking. You love how your bird looks. He starts tugging at feathers and you freak out, imagining your beautiful bird with the broiler-chicken look. Every time he touches his feathers -- even for normal preening behavior -- you rush over. See how this works? "Aha!" thinks your bird. "All I have to do to get attention is pull a feather!"

What can be done with the feather-picker? First, forget the over-the-counter and home-remedy "cures." They don't work, and some might even put your bird at risk.

See a veterinarian with experience in caring for birds as soon as the problem appears. Medical problems need to be addressed before looking at any behavioral strategies.

Do this sooner rather than later. In general, the longer your bird has been picking, the greater the probability of an unresolvable pattern of behavior being set -- as with poor little Patrick. Don't wait a few years before addressing a picking problem. When it starts, you need to start looking for a solution.

After your bird receives a clean bill of physical health, start making environmental adjustments to see whether you can ward off the picking. Prepare for the project to be a long one! Start a diary to record your changes and any effects they may have on your bird's behavior.

Start shaking things up, in small increments. A daily misting with a spray bottle and the addition of a room humidifier may be part of the solution. Also, consider these possibilities in the war against feather-picking: different toys, a smaller or larger cage, a new cage location, keeping a radio playing during the day, covering the cage to ensure your bird gets 12 solid hours of sleep, and more interaction and play with you.

Sadly, the definitive solution to feather-picking doesn't exist.

The best you can do is be patient, work with an avian veterinarian and be prepared to love your bird no matter what he looks like. In some cases, feather-picking is for life. In others, the problem is only occasional. Yes, some birds do become full-feathered again, but not every pet bird is bound for complete redress in the plumage department.

SIDEBAR

Toys, toys and more toys

The most important thing to know about bird toys is that they are not designed to last. In fact, they are designed to be destroyed with glee, and that's the way they should be.

Choose a variety of toys for your bird, rotate them frequently, and learn which varieties your pet likes best.

Food puzzles are especially good, because they make your bird work for his meals -- good exercise for the mind and body both. Other good toys are made of material that's fun for birds to shred.

Always buy from reputable sources, to be sure the materials and designs are bird-safe.

A constantly changing supply of bird toys is essential to the mental health of any avian pet and helps to combat behavior problems caused by boredom and pent-up energy. -- Gina Spadafori

Q&A

Healing tears in paw pads

Q: My 3-year-old dog is scared of the water. My boyfriend was trying to show her that the water is OK. I kept telling him to pick her up, but he kept trying to drag her into the pool. This morning, I noticed there are parts of each paw where the pad is torn. Is there something I can do at home to get this healed? -- T.U., via e-mail

A: The footpad is the toughest part of a pet's skin, but that doesn't mean it is immune from injury. This thick, spongy structure can be burned from scalding asphalt, abraded by digging or rubbing on a rough surface, cut by sharp glass or fencing, or penetrated by foreign objects such as thorns or weed seeds.

Because they're in near constant contact with surfaces, footpads are often injured. And because they have a rich blood supply, they bleed like human fingertips when injured. With constant pressure on the pads, and since it's hard to keep pets off their feet, many footpad injuries are slow to heal. Sometimes these injuries require special accommodations, such as keeping pets in confinement, keeping bandages on to prevent licking and allow the footpad to heal, and using Elizabethan collars (yes, the lampshade!) to prevent access.

Sutures don't hold very well in footpads (unlike in the skin), because every time the pet stands, the pad compresses. This puts a strong outward pressure on the edges of the laceration, causing the sutures to tear out. Many veterinarians use a medical grade of super glue to glue the edges back together.

In fact, in an emergency -- such as if you're far away from a clinic camping or it's late at night -- your veterinarian may ask you to clean a lacerated footpad and use a household version of the super glue to close the wound and stop the bleeding. For minor footpad injuries such as your dog's, your veterinarian may have you clean and soak the footpads with povidone iodine, Chlorhexidine gluconate or Epsom salts. Also, the application of aloe vera gel early in the course of treatment has been found to provide relief and promote more rapid healing.

And by the way: Not all dogs are meant to be swimmers. Your dog is probably one of them! -- Dr. Marty Becker

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books.

On PetConnection.com there's more information on pets and their care, reviews of products, books and "dog cars," and a weekly drawing for pet-care prizes. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or visiting PetConnection.com.

THE SCOOP

Keep pets cool during the 'dog days'

The "dog days" of summer -- in July and August -- derive their name from the constellation Canis Major and its brightest star, Sirius, which is named after the hound who belonged to Orion the hunter from Greek mythology. During the dog days, Sirius, which is also known as the Dog Star, is at its most visible. Dog days, then, have nothing to do with heat and everything to do with what's going on overhead.

The term, by the way, traces back to Ancient Rome.

During the dog days, don't let up your vigilance about the hazards of summer heat. Dogs -- especially those with dark colors, thick double coats or both -- don't handle heat well and can overheat to deadly levels in just a few minutes. If your dog shows signs of heat stress -- rapid, frantic panting and glassy eyes -- get him to a veterinarian immediately for emergency care.

Swimming is a great way for dogs to stay cool, but remember that not all dogs can swim (dogs such as bulldogs sink like rocks), and even a pet who's an enthusiastic and strong swimmer can get into trouble if pushed to exhaustion or if caught in dangerous currents. -- Gina Spadafori

ON GOOD BEHAVIOR

Handling important for new kitten

When you bring home a new kitten, hand-feed the kitten to show that you are the new "mom" who will provide food, water, shelter, play, mental exercise and companionship.

The proper way to greet a feline is by offering one finger to sniff. After allowing your kitten to sniff your finger, use that finger to pet your kitten all over just as a mother cat would lick and groom the kitten.

Kittenhood is the best time to shape the gentle, friendly personality you want in the adult cat. Hand-feeding with gentle handling builds trust in human hands as powerful, friendly providers of food and affection.

(Animal behavior experts Susan and Dr. Rolan Tripp are the authors of "On Good Behavior." For more information, visit their Web site at AnimalBehavior.net.)

PET Rx

Urinary problems mean a cat needs a vet

The No. 1 reason cats are taken to a veterinarian (outside of preventive care) is for Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease (FLUTD), a serious disorder that affects the urinary system of cats.

FLUTD often causes cats to urinate outside the litter box, a classic warning sign of illness that you can see -- and smell. Other symptoms include cats straining to urinate, crying out in the box or going more frequently.

Sadly, these signs are often misinterpreted as behavioral problems that end up getting the cat sent to a cage in a shelter instead of to a veterinarian for the medical treatment he needs.

While FLUTD may strike any age or gender of cats, it is more frequently seen in middle-aged and overweight cats. Factors that increase the risk include lack of exercise, stress and chronic dehydration.

Tips for avoiding FLUTD include:

-- Hydration. Some cats will drink more if the water seems fresh, such as with fountains that keep the water filtered and circulating.

-- Breaking up meals. Feed your cat several small meals during the day instead of one or two larger meals.

-- Chill your cat out. Decrease stress in the environment by providing your cat with scratching posts, window perches or kitty condos, and by playing active games with him.

-- Keep home sweet home. Be more aware of changes in your cat when there are changes in your life such as new pets, a home remodel, a move, etc.

-- Feed for health. Ask your veterinarian if new therapeutic diets for urinary tract health are appropriate for your cat. One innovative new food contains clinically proven antioxidants, omega-3 fatty acids, and controlled levels of minerals and vitamins to maintain a precise urine pH and work to help treat or prevent FLUTD. More important, these new diets don't use increased salt levels to increase water consumption and urination. -- Dr. Marty Becker

BY THE NUMBERS

More the merrier

According to the American Pet Products Manufacturers Association, 40.6 percent of all households in the United States owned at least one dog in 2002, a figure largely unchanged from the two previous surveys in 2000 and 1998. The total number of dogs owned per household has increased, however, to an average of 1.6. In 2002:

Number of dogs owned Total dog owners

One 65 percent

Two 23 percent

Three or more 12 percent

PETS ON THE WEB

Remembering the pets of presidents past

With the attention that presidential candidate Mitt Romney got for transporting his dog in a carrier on the roof of the family station wagon -- more than 20 years ago, but still a really bad idea -- it's a good time to revisit the pet peeves and problems of presidents past.

The Presidential Pet Museum's Web site (www.presidentialpetmuseum.com) is the place to go for a fairly comprehensive list of all presidential animals, from the hounds and horses of George Washington to the dog and cats of George W. Bush. The animals kept by presidential families started out being more purposeful than companionable, with horses and milk cows commonplace.

By the turn of the last century, though, animals were welcomed just for keeping the president and his family company. Theodore Roosevelt brought in the new era with eight dogs and cats and a pack of presidential guinea pigs. You'll find pictures and much more on the Presidential Pet Museum's site, which is both attractive and easy to navigate. -- Gina Spadafori

Pet Connection is produced by a team of team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper, by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Universal Press Syndicate

Your dog barks nonstop. Your dog digs, ruining your yard. Your dog chews anything he can get his teeth on. What's missing from this picture? Chances are, it's exercise.

It's not news that we humans don't get enough exercise, so it's no surprise that our dogs aren't moving much either. While most pet lovers recognize that exercise is good for their dogs, few seem to make the connection between a lack of exercise and behavioral problems that have excess energy and boredom as components.

While environmental management (such as removing barking triggers or giving a dog something acceptable to chew) and training your dog are important, these strategies are only part of the solution. Dogs aren't getting the exercise they need, and it's causing problems.

Look at the big, active dogs we adore, such as the Labrador, golden retriever and German shepherd. These breeds are high on the American Kennel Club's list of the most popular. You don't have to go far down the popularity list to find other active breeds as well. Factor in the countless retriever and shepherd mixes, and you have a lot of dogs whose genetics have prepared them to work nonstop, but they spend their lives in small, boring backyards.

And what are they doing to burn off all that natural energy? You guessed it: barking, digging, chewing.

If you're thinking of getting a dog, think very seriously about what breed you want and whether you can provide an active dog with the exercise it needs. If you can't honestly say that your dog will get 30 minutes of heart-thumping aerobic exercise at least three to four days a week -- daily is better -- then you really ought to reconsider getting an active large breed.

Instead, consider the alternatives. For large breeds, look at the sight hounds, such as the greyhound, saluki or even the massive Irish wolfhound. These breeds were not developed to work all day like the retriever, husky and sheepdog, but rather to go all out for a short period of time and then chill out. They're big, but they're couch potatoes by choice. Many guarding breeds, such as Rottweilers, boxers and Akitas, also have relatively minimal exercise requirements. All dogs love and need their exercise, but not all dogs will go crazy if they don't get a ton of it.

Most small breeds are easy in the exercise department, too, not because they don't need a lot of exercise, but because it's not as difficult to exercise a small dog with short legs. A Yorkie, pug or corgi can get good exercise in a small yard or on a brisk walk.

If you must bring a large, active breed or mix into your home, then you also must meet your dog's needs when it comes to exercise.

Your efforts will pay off for you as well as your dog. Experts agree: A dog that gets plenty of exercise is less likely to develop behavior problems (and more likely to be able to overcome any behavior problems that are already established). Plus, an active dog will be less likely to suffer from life-shortening obesity.

So get out that leash. Find that ball. And make some time to get your dog out and running. Exercising your dog -- especially if you're a walker or runner -- is great for your own physical and mental health as well.

SIDEBAR

Tennis ball use must be supervised

Tennis balls are so popular with pet owners that many never see a tennis court -- they go straight to the dogs. In fact, some "tennis" balls are designed with dogs in mind, in decidedly non-regulation sizes and colors, and in super-tough materials designed to make it more difficult to pop the cover off or pierce the exterior and render a ball bounceless.

These popular playthings are not without risks, though. Veterinarians warn that tennis balls should be used for supervised retrieving play only and never allowed to be used as a chew toy. That's because a dog can compress the ball, which can then pop open in the back of the mouth, cutting off the air supply.

When used with caution, though, there's probably nothing more popular among dogs than tennis balls. And there's nothing that has inspired more related products, including pet toys that fling tennis balls (as in jai alai), drive them like golf balls or shoot them out at a batting cage. -- Gina Spadafori

Q&A

Why is my cat chewing cloth?

Q: My cat is obsessed with chewing on things, particularly items made of soft woven material, like the throw I have over the back of the couch. She'll suck on the throw and then chew holes in it. What's missing in her diet? -- W.P., via e-mail

A: Dogs will chew on almost anything, especially when they're puppies (destructive chewing is a common behavior complaint made by people with dogs).

But there is a destructive chewing problem in some cats, too. It's called "wool-sucking," because wool sweaters, blankets, etc., seem to be the most attractive to cats who have this behavior. (Some "wool-sucking" cats prefer plastic materials, such as the kind found in plastic grocery bags.) The chewing isn't quite like a dog's totally destructive gnaw-it-up, either: Wool-sucking cats typically work the same spot on a piece of cloth, sucking and chewing on that one spot continually.

Some have attributed this behavior to a kitten's being weaned too early or to the taste of lanolin in wool cloth. In fact, the behavior most likely has a hereditary component, since it's most common in the so-called Oriental breeds such as Siamese or their mixes.

In some cases, more roughage in the diet (such as pureed pumpkin) can reduce a cat's desire to destroy wool clothing and other household items. The best advice, though, is to put away what you don't want the wool-sucker to destroy and be sure your cat gets enough exercise -- the more interactive play the better -- to help reduce nervous energy. -- Gina Spadafori

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books.

On PetConnection.com there's more information on pets and their care, reviews of products, books and "dog cars," and a weekly drawing for pet-care prizes. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or visiting PetConnection.com.

PET TRIVIA

How hot is it? Check your cat

Cats sleep in one of two basic positions: upright (think of the New York Public Library lions) or on their sides. How curled a cat is when sleeping on her side will depend on how hot or cold the animal is. The more tightly curled a cat is, the colder the air temperature. Curling into a tight ball helps to conserve body heat. When cats stretch out, they expose their bellies, allowing for heat to escape and helping to cool them.

That said, cats generally like to be warm and will seek out all the warmest places in the home to sleep, as perhaps befitting an animal with its roots in the desert.

The tops of televisions (and before that, old cabinet-style radios) have long been popular. More recently, CRT computer monitors have been favorites with feline heat-seeking missiles. What's a cat to do now that more and more computer monitors are being replaced with flat-screen displays? -- Gina Spadafori

PET TIP

Dog spit no substitute for antiseptic

The idea that a dog's saliva has healing powers dates all the way back to the ancient Greeks and Romans, whose physicians believed it to be an antidote for poisoning.

Modern medicine doesn't look kindly on such theories, especially when the things a dog eats and licks get taken into account. So if you have a wound, try some antiseptic spray and a Band-Aid instead.

Why do dogs seem so interested in sniffing or licking wounds? One reason is that the serum that leaks from an open sore is sweet. -- Dr. Marty Becker

THE SCOOP

The secret behind that zooming cat

The average domestic cat can run at a speed of around 30 mph.

To put things in perspective, the thoroughbred is the fastest breed of horse and can maintain a speed of 45 mph for over a mile. The fastest greyhounds run at speeds of just under 42 mph for about a third of a mile. But it's a cat that takes the land speed record: the cheetah, which can hit 70 mph for several hundred yards.

Like the cheetah -- albeit, not as fast -- domestic cats are built for quick bursts of speed. And while you could never outrun a dog over distance, you could outrun a cat. A cat will quickly overheat when running and will have to stop after just 30 to 60 seconds to rest and cool down.

Before you outrun a cat, though, he'll probably be over the nearest fence: A cat can jump six times his own length from a sitting position. A cat's powerful thigh muscles coil and release incredible energy, allowing him to escape gravity and fly.

Cats who zoom around the room for no apparent reason actually do have a reason after all: They're burning off excess energy. This is especially true for indoor cats that don't get enough exercise or stimulation by way of play that emulates hunting.

In the wild, cats sleep by day, storing up the energy for explosive chases when they're hunting their meals at night.

For house cats, though, hunting involves sauntering into the kitchen to kill a bowl of food, which doesn't require much effort. That excess energy still needs to be burned off -- usually sometime around midnight, when you're trying to sleep. -- Dr. Marty Becker

BY THE NUMBERS

Good dog, safe dog

Although free-roaming, vicious dogs are the stuff of our nightmares, we are statistically more likely to be bitten by dogs we know. Experts say the numbers of serious or deadly dog bites can be dramatically reduced by neutering and by raising animals to be well-socialized, well-trained family members (as opposed to having neglected outdoor "protection" dogs).

Here are some dog-bite statistics from the U.S. Centers for Disease Control:

-- 80 percent of dog-bite incidents involving children are inflicted by a family dog (30 percent) or a neighbor's dog (50 percent).

-- 75 percent of fatal dog bites were inflicted on family members or guests on the family's property.

-- 8 percent of dog bites involving adults were work-related (inflicted on such workers as meter readers, repairmen, etc.).

PET RX

How much should a cat weigh?

An ideal weight for most cats is 8 to 12 pounds. Even the larger breeds of cat rarely exceed 15 pounds, with the exception of a few relatively rare breeds.

Some breeds of cat routinely weigh a few pounds more, though, without an ounce of fat on them. Among the heaviest breeds are Norwegian forest cats, Maine coon cats, rag dolls, Siberians and Turkish vans. In these breeds, the largest males routinely approach or top the 20-pound mark.

The Singapura is the smallest breed of cat, with females as tiny as 4 pounds. The Cornish rex, Devon rex and Japanese bobtail are also feline featherweights, weighing in at about 6 to 9 pounds.

Fat is unhealthy for cats, but crash diets can be deadly. Talk to your veterinarian about your cat's proper weight and how to attain it. -- Dr. Marty Becker.

Pet Connection is produced by a team of team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper, by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

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