Universal Press Syndicate

My first parrot, Patrick the little Senegal, was a reclamation project. He'd been abandoned at his veterinarian after attempts to combat his desire to pick himself naked failed, as did his first owner's enthusiasm for keeping a bird who looked like a, well, plucked chicken.

With the help of a top avian veterinarian -- my "Birds for Dummies" co-author Dr. Brian Speer -- we got most of Patrick's plumage to regrow. But the desire to self-destruct never truly left him, and he died after an attempt to repair a hole in his chest he'd dug himself, for reasons only his own troubled bird brain could fathom.

Eddie the caique parrot, who lives with me now, is a bird of far fewer physical and mental torments, and I've worked hard to keep him that way. The combination of a better start in life and an owner dedicated to keeping him healthy and happy shows in his healthy plumage and playful outlook.

But I know that this could change, despite my best efforts.

If there's one parrot problem that has both bird owners and veterinarians pulling out their own hair in frustration, it would have to be feather-picking, a bird's willful destruction of his own plumage.

The first thing you need to know about this problem: Feather-picking is a symptom of something else that's wrong with your bird. The only hope you have of "curing" feather-picking is finding out and treating what's behind the behavior. Feather-picking relates to a staggering variety of problems, and any one (or any combination) of the following can be at the bottom of your bird's plucking.

-- Health problems. Medical conditions behind feather-picking include allergies, parasitic infections, bacterial infections, abnormal growths (cysts) in the feather follicle, internal health problems, vitamin deficiencies and hormone-associated problems. And that's the short list.

-- Low humidity. Many bird species originally come from extremely hot and humid environments, and our houses can't hope to duplicate the conditions of a rain forest (we'd be miserable). The dry, cool air of most houses can be a factor in feather-picking and can also set the stage for some secondary medical problems.

-- Boredom and pent-up energy. Birds are active and intelligent, and they don't handle the strain of being forced to sit around in a cage all day very well. Without things to play with and stuff to destroy, and without being able to get out of the cage and exercise, birds may direct all their energy toward self-mutilation.

-- Psychological problems. Although birds need to have their wings trimmed for safety, a bad wing trim -- too short, with no allowance for an "easy landing" -- can upset a bird so badly that he starts tearing at himself. Obsessive-compulsive disorders can also trigger feather-picking.

-- Attention-seeking. You love how your bird looks. He starts tugging at feathers and you freak out, imagining your beautiful bird with the broiler-chicken look. Every time he touches his feathers -- even for normal preening behavior -- you rush over. See how this works? "Aha!" thinks your bird. "All I have to do to get attention is pull a feather!"

What can be done with the feather-picker? First, forget the over-the-counter and home-remedy "cures." They don't work, and some might even put your bird at risk.

See a veterinarian with experience in caring for birds as soon as the problem appears. Medical problems need to be addressed before looking at any behavioral strategies.

Do this sooner rather than later. In general, the longer your bird has been picking, the greater the probability of an unresolvable pattern of behavior being set -- as with poor little Patrick. Don't wait a few years before addressing a picking problem. When it starts, you need to start looking for a solution.

After your bird receives a clean bill of physical health, start making environmental adjustments to see whether you can ward off the picking. Prepare for the project to be a long one! Start a diary to record your changes and any effects they may have on your bird's behavior.

Start shaking things up, in small increments. A daily misting with a spray bottle and the addition of a room humidifier may be part of the solution. Also, consider these possibilities in the war against feather-picking: different toys, a smaller or larger cage, a new cage location, keeping a radio playing during the day, covering the cage to ensure your bird gets 12 solid hours of sleep, and more interaction and play with you.

Sadly, the definitive solution to feather-picking doesn't exist.

The best you can do is be patient, work with an avian veterinarian and be prepared to love your bird no matter what he looks like. In some cases, feather-picking is for life. In others, the problem is only occasional. Yes, some birds do become full-feathered again, but not every pet bird is bound for complete redress in the plumage department.

SIDEBAR

Toys, toys and more toys

The most important thing to know about bird toys is that they are not designed to last. In fact, they are designed to be destroyed with glee, and that's the way they should be.

Choose a variety of toys for your bird, rotate them frequently, and learn which varieties your pet likes best.

Food puzzles are especially good, because they make your bird work for his meals -- good exercise for the mind and body both. Other good toys are made of material that's fun for birds to shred.

Always buy from reputable sources, to be sure the materials and designs are bird-safe.

A constantly changing supply of bird toys is essential to the mental health of any avian pet and helps to combat behavior problems caused by boredom and pent-up energy. -- Gina Spadafori

Q&A

Healing tears in paw pads

Q: My 3-year-old dog is scared of the water. My boyfriend was trying to show her that the water is OK. I kept telling him to pick her up, but he kept trying to drag her into the pool. This morning, I noticed there are parts of each paw where the pad is torn. Is there something I can do at home to get this healed? -- T.U., via e-mail

A: The footpad is the toughest part of a pet's skin, but that doesn't mean it is immune from injury. This thick, spongy structure can be burned from scalding asphalt, abraded by digging or rubbing on a rough surface, cut by sharp glass or fencing, or penetrated by foreign objects such as thorns or weed seeds.

Because they're in near constant contact with surfaces, footpads are often injured. And because they have a rich blood supply, they bleed like human fingertips when injured. With constant pressure on the pads, and since it's hard to keep pets off their feet, many footpad injuries are slow to heal. Sometimes these injuries require special accommodations, such as keeping pets in confinement, keeping bandages on to prevent licking and allow the footpad to heal, and using Elizabethan collars (yes, the lampshade!) to prevent access.

Sutures don't hold very well in footpads (unlike in the skin), because every time the pet stands, the pad compresses. This puts a strong outward pressure on the edges of the laceration, causing the sutures to tear out. Many veterinarians use a medical grade of super glue to glue the edges back together.

In fact, in an emergency -- such as if you're far away from a clinic camping or it's late at night -- your veterinarian may ask you to clean a lacerated footpad and use a household version of the super glue to close the wound and stop the bleeding. For minor footpad injuries such as your dog's, your veterinarian may have you clean and soak the footpads with povidone iodine, Chlorhexidine gluconate or Epsom salts. Also, the application of aloe vera gel early in the course of treatment has been found to provide relief and promote more rapid healing.

And by the way: Not all dogs are meant to be swimmers. Your dog is probably one of them! -- Dr. Marty Becker

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books.

On PetConnection.com there's more information on pets and their care, reviews of products, books and "dog cars," and a weekly drawing for pet-care prizes. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or visiting PetConnection.com.

THE SCOOP

Keep pets cool during the 'dog days'

The "dog days" of summer -- in July and August -- derive their name from the constellation Canis Major and its brightest star, Sirius, which is named after the hound who belonged to Orion the hunter from Greek mythology. During the dog days, Sirius, which is also known as the Dog Star, is at its most visible. Dog days, then, have nothing to do with heat and everything to do with what's going on overhead.

The term, by the way, traces back to Ancient Rome.

During the dog days, don't let up your vigilance about the hazards of summer heat. Dogs -- especially those with dark colors, thick double coats or both -- don't handle heat well and can overheat to deadly levels in just a few minutes. If your dog shows signs of heat stress -- rapid, frantic panting and glassy eyes -- get him to a veterinarian immediately for emergency care.

Swimming is a great way for dogs to stay cool, but remember that not all dogs can swim (dogs such as bulldogs sink like rocks), and even a pet who's an enthusiastic and strong swimmer can get into trouble if pushed to exhaustion or if caught in dangerous currents. -- Gina Spadafori

ON GOOD BEHAVIOR

Handling important for new kitten

When you bring home a new kitten, hand-feed the kitten to show that you are the new "mom" who will provide food, water, shelter, play, mental exercise and companionship.

The proper way to greet a feline is by offering one finger to sniff. After allowing your kitten to sniff your finger, use that finger to pet your kitten all over just as a mother cat would lick and groom the kitten.

Kittenhood is the best time to shape the gentle, friendly personality you want in the adult cat. Hand-feeding with gentle handling builds trust in human hands as powerful, friendly providers of food and affection.

(Animal behavior experts Susan and Dr. Rolan Tripp are the authors of "On Good Behavior." For more information, visit their Web site at AnimalBehavior.net.)

PET Rx

Urinary problems mean a cat needs a vet

The No. 1 reason cats are taken to a veterinarian (outside of preventive care) is for Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease (FLUTD), a serious disorder that affects the urinary system of cats.

FLUTD often causes cats to urinate outside the litter box, a classic warning sign of illness that you can see -- and smell. Other symptoms include cats straining to urinate, crying out in the box or going more frequently.

Sadly, these signs are often misinterpreted as behavioral problems that end up getting the cat sent to a cage in a shelter instead of to a veterinarian for the medical treatment he needs.

While FLUTD may strike any age or gender of cats, it is more frequently seen in middle-aged and overweight cats. Factors that increase the risk include lack of exercise, stress and chronic dehydration.

Tips for avoiding FLUTD include:

-- Hydration. Some cats will drink more if the water seems fresh, such as with fountains that keep the water filtered and circulating.

-- Breaking up meals. Feed your cat several small meals during the day instead of one or two larger meals.

-- Chill your cat out. Decrease stress in the environment by providing your cat with scratching posts, window perches or kitty condos, and by playing active games with him.

-- Keep home sweet home. Be more aware of changes in your cat when there are changes in your life such as new pets, a home remodel, a move, etc.

-- Feed for health. Ask your veterinarian if new therapeutic diets for urinary tract health are appropriate for your cat. One innovative new food contains clinically proven antioxidants, omega-3 fatty acids, and controlled levels of minerals and vitamins to maintain a precise urine pH and work to help treat or prevent FLUTD. More important, these new diets don't use increased salt levels to increase water consumption and urination. -- Dr. Marty Becker

BY THE NUMBERS

More the merrier

According to the American Pet Products Manufacturers Association, 40.6 percent of all households in the United States owned at least one dog in 2002, a figure largely unchanged from the two previous surveys in 2000 and 1998. The total number of dogs owned per household has increased, however, to an average of 1.6. In 2002:

Number of dogs owned Total dog owners

One 65 percent

Two 23 percent

Three or more 12 percent

PETS ON THE WEB

Remembering the pets of presidents past

With the attention that presidential candidate Mitt Romney got for transporting his dog in a carrier on the roof of the family station wagon -- more than 20 years ago, but still a really bad idea -- it's a good time to revisit the pet peeves and problems of presidents past.

The Presidential Pet Museum's Web site (www.presidentialpetmuseum.com) is the place to go for a fairly comprehensive list of all presidential animals, from the hounds and horses of George Washington to the dog and cats of George W. Bush. The animals kept by presidential families started out being more purposeful than companionable, with horses and milk cows commonplace.

By the turn of the last century, though, animals were welcomed just for keeping the president and his family company. Theodore Roosevelt brought in the new era with eight dogs and cats and a pack of presidential guinea pigs. You'll find pictures and much more on the Presidential Pet Museum's site, which is both attractive and easy to navigate. -- Gina Spadafori

Pet Connection is produced by a team of team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper, by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Universal Press Syndicate

Your dog barks nonstop. Your dog digs, ruining your yard. Your dog chews anything he can get his teeth on. What's missing from this picture? Chances are, it's exercise.

It's not news that we humans don't get enough exercise, so it's no surprise that our dogs aren't moving much either. While most pet lovers recognize that exercise is good for their dogs, few seem to make the connection between a lack of exercise and behavioral problems that have excess energy and boredom as components.

While environmental management (such as removing barking triggers or giving a dog something acceptable to chew) and training your dog are important, these strategies are only part of the solution. Dogs aren't getting the exercise they need, and it's causing problems.

Look at the big, active dogs we adore, such as the Labrador, golden retriever and German shepherd. These breeds are high on the American Kennel Club's list of the most popular. You don't have to go far down the popularity list to find other active breeds as well. Factor in the countless retriever and shepherd mixes, and you have a lot of dogs whose genetics have prepared them to work nonstop, but they spend their lives in small, boring backyards.

And what are they doing to burn off all that natural energy? You guessed it: barking, digging, chewing.

If you're thinking of getting a dog, think very seriously about what breed you want and whether you can provide an active dog with the exercise it needs. If you can't honestly say that your dog will get 30 minutes of heart-thumping aerobic exercise at least three to four days a week -- daily is better -- then you really ought to reconsider getting an active large breed.

Instead, consider the alternatives. For large breeds, look at the sight hounds, such as the greyhound, saluki or even the massive Irish wolfhound. These breeds were not developed to work all day like the retriever, husky and sheepdog, but rather to go all out for a short period of time and then chill out. They're big, but they're couch potatoes by choice. Many guarding breeds, such as Rottweilers, boxers and Akitas, also have relatively minimal exercise requirements. All dogs love and need their exercise, but not all dogs will go crazy if they don't get a ton of it.

Most small breeds are easy in the exercise department, too, not because they don't need a lot of exercise, but because it's not as difficult to exercise a small dog with short legs. A Yorkie, pug or corgi can get good exercise in a small yard or on a brisk walk.

If you must bring a large, active breed or mix into your home, then you also must meet your dog's needs when it comes to exercise.

Your efforts will pay off for you as well as your dog. Experts agree: A dog that gets plenty of exercise is less likely to develop behavior problems (and more likely to be able to overcome any behavior problems that are already established). Plus, an active dog will be less likely to suffer from life-shortening obesity.

So get out that leash. Find that ball. And make some time to get your dog out and running. Exercising your dog -- especially if you're a walker or runner -- is great for your own physical and mental health as well.

SIDEBAR

Tennis ball use must be supervised

Tennis balls are so popular with pet owners that many never see a tennis court -- they go straight to the dogs. In fact, some "tennis" balls are designed with dogs in mind, in decidedly non-regulation sizes and colors, and in super-tough materials designed to make it more difficult to pop the cover off or pierce the exterior and render a ball bounceless.

These popular playthings are not without risks, though. Veterinarians warn that tennis balls should be used for supervised retrieving play only and never allowed to be used as a chew toy. That's because a dog can compress the ball, which can then pop open in the back of the mouth, cutting off the air supply.

When used with caution, though, there's probably nothing more popular among dogs than tennis balls. And there's nothing that has inspired more related products, including pet toys that fling tennis balls (as in jai alai), drive them like golf balls or shoot them out at a batting cage. -- Gina Spadafori

Q&A

Why is my cat chewing cloth?

Q: My cat is obsessed with chewing on things, particularly items made of soft woven material, like the throw I have over the back of the couch. She'll suck on the throw and then chew holes in it. What's missing in her diet? -- W.P., via e-mail

A: Dogs will chew on almost anything, especially when they're puppies (destructive chewing is a common behavior complaint made by people with dogs).

But there is a destructive chewing problem in some cats, too. It's called "wool-sucking," because wool sweaters, blankets, etc., seem to be the most attractive to cats who have this behavior. (Some "wool-sucking" cats prefer plastic materials, such as the kind found in plastic grocery bags.) The chewing isn't quite like a dog's totally destructive gnaw-it-up, either: Wool-sucking cats typically work the same spot on a piece of cloth, sucking and chewing on that one spot continually.

Some have attributed this behavior to a kitten's being weaned too early or to the taste of lanolin in wool cloth. In fact, the behavior most likely has a hereditary component, since it's most common in the so-called Oriental breeds such as Siamese or their mixes.

In some cases, more roughage in the diet (such as pureed pumpkin) can reduce a cat's desire to destroy wool clothing and other household items. The best advice, though, is to put away what you don't want the wool-sucker to destroy and be sure your cat gets enough exercise -- the more interactive play the better -- to help reduce nervous energy. -- Gina Spadafori

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books.

On PetConnection.com there's more information on pets and their care, reviews of products, books and "dog cars," and a weekly drawing for pet-care prizes. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or visiting PetConnection.com.

PET TRIVIA

How hot is it? Check your cat

Cats sleep in one of two basic positions: upright (think of the New York Public Library lions) or on their sides. How curled a cat is when sleeping on her side will depend on how hot or cold the animal is. The more tightly curled a cat is, the colder the air temperature. Curling into a tight ball helps to conserve body heat. When cats stretch out, they expose their bellies, allowing for heat to escape and helping to cool them.

That said, cats generally like to be warm and will seek out all the warmest places in the home to sleep, as perhaps befitting an animal with its roots in the desert.

The tops of televisions (and before that, old cabinet-style radios) have long been popular. More recently, CRT computer monitors have been favorites with feline heat-seeking missiles. What's a cat to do now that more and more computer monitors are being replaced with flat-screen displays? -- Gina Spadafori

PET TIP

Dog spit no substitute for antiseptic

The idea that a dog's saliva has healing powers dates all the way back to the ancient Greeks and Romans, whose physicians believed it to be an antidote for poisoning.

Modern medicine doesn't look kindly on such theories, especially when the things a dog eats and licks get taken into account. So if you have a wound, try some antiseptic spray and a Band-Aid instead.

Why do dogs seem so interested in sniffing or licking wounds? One reason is that the serum that leaks from an open sore is sweet. -- Dr. Marty Becker

THE SCOOP

The secret behind that zooming cat

The average domestic cat can run at a speed of around 30 mph.

To put things in perspective, the thoroughbred is the fastest breed of horse and can maintain a speed of 45 mph for over a mile. The fastest greyhounds run at speeds of just under 42 mph for about a third of a mile. But it's a cat that takes the land speed record: the cheetah, which can hit 70 mph for several hundred yards.

Like the cheetah -- albeit, not as fast -- domestic cats are built for quick bursts of speed. And while you could never outrun a dog over distance, you could outrun a cat. A cat will quickly overheat when running and will have to stop after just 30 to 60 seconds to rest and cool down.

Before you outrun a cat, though, he'll probably be over the nearest fence: A cat can jump six times his own length from a sitting position. A cat's powerful thigh muscles coil and release incredible energy, allowing him to escape gravity and fly.

Cats who zoom around the room for no apparent reason actually do have a reason after all: They're burning off excess energy. This is especially true for indoor cats that don't get enough exercise or stimulation by way of play that emulates hunting.

In the wild, cats sleep by day, storing up the energy for explosive chases when they're hunting their meals at night.

For house cats, though, hunting involves sauntering into the kitchen to kill a bowl of food, which doesn't require much effort. That excess energy still needs to be burned off -- usually sometime around midnight, when you're trying to sleep. -- Dr. Marty Becker

BY THE NUMBERS

Good dog, safe dog

Although free-roaming, vicious dogs are the stuff of our nightmares, we are statistically more likely to be bitten by dogs we know. Experts say the numbers of serious or deadly dog bites can be dramatically reduced by neutering and by raising animals to be well-socialized, well-trained family members (as opposed to having neglected outdoor "protection" dogs).

Here are some dog-bite statistics from the U.S. Centers for Disease Control:

-- 80 percent of dog-bite incidents involving children are inflicted by a family dog (30 percent) or a neighbor's dog (50 percent).

-- 75 percent of fatal dog bites were inflicted on family members or guests on the family's property.

-- 8 percent of dog bites involving adults were work-related (inflicted on such workers as meter readers, repairmen, etc.).

PET RX

How much should a cat weigh?

An ideal weight for most cats is 8 to 12 pounds. Even the larger breeds of cat rarely exceed 15 pounds, with the exception of a few relatively rare breeds.

Some breeds of cat routinely weigh a few pounds more, though, without an ounce of fat on them. Among the heaviest breeds are Norwegian forest cats, Maine coon cats, rag dolls, Siberians and Turkish vans. In these breeds, the largest males routinely approach or top the 20-pound mark.

The Singapura is the smallest breed of cat, with females as tiny as 4 pounds. The Cornish rex, Devon rex and Japanese bobtail are also feline featherweights, weighing in at about 6 to 9 pounds.

Fat is unhealthy for cats, but crash diets can be deadly. Talk to your veterinarian about your cat's proper weight and how to attain it. -- Dr. Marty Becker.

Pet Connection is produced by a team of team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper, by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

One of the best things to happen to dogs and those who love them is the growth in popularity of off-leash recreation areas nationwide.

As open spaces dwindle and property values make the large suburban back yard a thing of the past, these dog parks have emerged as a way to provide what most dogs desperately need: more exercise. Sedentary dogs develop health issues, such as obesity, and behavior problems that are worsened by excess energy and boredom, such as digging, barking, destructive chewing and that catch-all complaint of dog lovers everywhere: "He's too hyper!"

Dog parks make dogs tired, and a tired dog is a happy, good dog.

But the free-wheeling atmosphere of a dog park is not a good fit with every canine, and it's important to know before you click off the leash if your dog belongs inside an off-leash recreation area. And you need to know a few things about your behavior, too, to make your pet's dog-park experience better and safer for all.

The best candidate for a dog park is a healthy, well-socialized and friendly dog of medium size or larger. Smaller dogs are more easily hurt, and shy ones can be intimidated. Dogs who are aggressive toward people or other dogs have absolutely no business in a dog park, no excuses.

Puppies who have not completed their course of vaccinations and haven't been cleared by the veterinarian for outings should also stay clear. That's because you just can't tell the disease status of other canine visitors. And until your pup's immunity is where it should be, you're taking a potentially deadly risk by introducing him to a dog park.

The biggest problem with dog parks is not the dogs, but the people. Some of those problems are caused by people who know better, but other conflicts could easily be prevented with a little knowledge and foresight on the part of dog owners who truly don't know better.

The preparation begins before you ever set foot inside a park with your dog. Don't go in with food (for either you or your dog) or with your dog's favorite toy, since these high-value items can trigger fights. Do go in with lots of clean-up bags, and be sure to use them.

Once inside, don't open a book or get too involved in socializing with the other dog lovers. Your dog needs to be monitored at all times to keep him out of trouble. Don't allow your dog to be bullied, and don't allow your dog to bully others. Sometimes the park mix isn't a good one, and you need to take your dog home.

Dog parks work only when people work at them. If park problems become more the rule than the exception, the trend will reverse and the dog park will disappear. Be responsible for your dog and help to keep the drive for more dog parks alive.

SIDEBAR

No leashes, but whose rules?

Despite the growing popularity of off-leash recreation for dogs, there are a few controversies when it comes to rules, primarily:

-- Children. Some who are looking for an outing with both their children and their pets want dog parks to be open to children. Proponents of "child-free" dog parks argue that children could get hurt by rambunctious dogs. If a child gets hurt, the dog will get blamed, they say, so it's better to leave children outside the gates.

-- Small dog/big dog. Some small dogs think they're big dogs. Some big dogs think small dogs are edible. The clash of attitudes does not work out well for small dogs. Many dog parks are now adding a separate area that's just for small dogs.

-- Fighting breeds. Pit bull terriers and other breeds developed for dog-fighting (and mixes of these breeds) are arguably not safe around other dogs. The pit bull advocacy group Bay Area Doglovers Responsible About Pit bulls (BAD RAP, www.badrap.org), warns: "Never trust a pit bull not to fight" and suggests other types of recreation for these dogs.

-- Unneutered male dogs. Young male dogs who have not been altered are generally more territorial and more likely to fight.

Of the four common dog-park controversies, only the small dog/big dog issue seems to be easily remedied to the satisfaction of all sides. While arguments continue over who should be allowed in, savvy dog-park users sensibly vote with their feet, taking their animals out whenever any situation starts to develop that could spell trouble. -- G.S.

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

On PetConnection.com there's more information on pets and their care, reviews of products, books and "dog cars," and a weekly drawing for pet-care prizes. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or visiting PetConnection.com.

Q&A

Don't teach pup to be finicky

Q: I have a 4-month-old toy poodle. He seems to be almost totally uninterested in food. He eats only a few bites a day of his dry food, and I spend most of my waking hours trying to dream up things he might be interested in eating, most to no avail.

He is not ill. He is incredibly playful and seems to be full of energy and vigor, but I don't know what the eating deal is. -- C.Y., via e-mail

A: You are teaching your dog to be a finicky eater. Look at it from his point of view. He's a normal, active puppy, easily distracted and wanting to play, play, play. Food? Just not that exciting.

You put down dry food. He'd rather play. You add something yummy, it catches his interest, and he eats. But the next day, he'd rather play. So you try something else ... and something else ... and something else.

What have you taught your pup? You've shown him that if he waits, something better (or at least different) will come along. Stop, or you'll soon be opening cans of caviar for him.

Puppies should be fed three times a day until the age of 6 months or so, when they can go to the twice-a-day schedule that adult dogs should be on. Don't keep food available at all times. It makes house-training more difficult and removes the power of food as a training tool. (Fresh water, on the other hand, should always be accessible.)

Give your little guy a quiet place to eat with no distractions. A crate is ideal, but a small room with a baby gate across it will also do. Put the food down and leave your pup alone for 15 to 20 minutes. Then pick up the food, eaten or not, and give your pet no food until the next scheduled feeding. Repeat at noon and at night.

Don't worry if he misses a meal. He won't starve. Resist the temptation to give him treats in between, because it doesn't take much to fill up a small dog.

If you want to add something to increase palatability, warm and add a little low-sodium, nonfat chicken broth. But that's it. Don't fall back into the habit of constantly finding something "better." Give your pet a high-quality food and teach him to eat what's offered. You'll both be better off.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PETS ON THE WEB

Diabetic cats get best advice on site

If only every chronic pet illness had a Web site as helpful and supportive as the one dedicated to feline diabetes (www.felinediabetes.com).

Administered by a cat-loving physician, the site offers everything an owner needs to know (but maybe didn't think to ask the veterinarian) about caring for a pet with this disease. What is it like to live with such an animal? You'll find that here, along with tips on using syringes and monitoring a pet's sugar levels. There's also a message board with thousands of posts on the challenges of the disease.

Feline Diabetes recently added an online store offering an innovative litter box that makes it easier to collect urine for testing. The box features washable, non-absorbent litter that can be rinsed with a mild antibacterial solution in anticipation of a diabetic cat's using it. The urine then flows into a reservoir for testing.

Any cat lover dealing with the diagnosis of feline diabetes absolutely must spend some time on this site. It's designed and developed with good science behind it, but also plenty of love. -- G.S.

PET Rx

Fiber can help eliminate hairballs

Tired of cleaning up hairballs? Add some fiber to your cat's diet.

A little bit of canned pumpkin -– plain pumpkin, not pumpkin pie filling -- added to your pet's regular meals will help the fur ingested by grooming to pass through the digestive system, instead of being thrown up onto your carpets. Combine it with canned food for palatability, or mix it with a little water from canned tuna or clams.

Regular combing and brushing also helps, especially if your pet has long hair. The fur you catch when grooming your cat won't end up as a hairball, or as hair you'll be cleaning off your clothes.

Canned pumpkin has an advantage over oil-based hairball remedies: Overusing the latter can decrease the absorption of some essential nutrients.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

THE SCOOP

Timely neutering can help end kitten surplus

With kitten season getting ready to roll, it's especially important to get those cats fixed. The advantages:

-- A neutered tomcat is less likely to roam, less likely to fight (and less likely to cost you money to patch him up), and less likely to spray urine to mark his territory. He's more likely to live longer, because the cat who's looking for a mate is really looking for trouble. If a car doesn't get him, infectious disease (spread by fighting or mating) or cancer may.

-- A spayed female is a more attentive and loving pet because her energy isn't constantly directed toward finding a mate. Cats are in heat nearly all the time until they become pregnant. If you spay your cat, you protect her from some cancers and infections, and from sexually transmitted infectious diseases.

"Spaying" and "neutering" are the everyday terms for the surgical sterilization of a pet. Neutering -- or altering -- is also used to describe both procedures. The technical terms for the two operations are "ovariohysterectomy," for the female, and "castration," for the male -- which pretty much explains why "spaying" and "neutering" are the preferred terms.

Most of the people who end up trying to find homes for kittens didn't mean for their pets to breed. They just didn't get a young cat to the veterinarian in time to prevent pregnancy. Your kitten can become pregnant before she's even half-grown, which is why many shelters these days alter cats before adoption, as early as 8 weeks of age.

If your cat is an accident waiting to happen, don't delay. The arguments are solid in favor of altering your pet, and you need go no farther than your local shelter to find them.

PET TIP

Basic bird manners start with "step up"

The "step up" command is basic to having a well-behaved pet parrot. Like dogs, birds are social climbers and will take advantage of the human who isn't perceived as leadership material. The bird who understands and reacts properly to "step up" is one who also knows you're in charge.

If you have a well-socialized young bird, you should be able to teach "step up" pretty easily. Start with your bird on your hand, or on a T-stand perch. Ask your bird to "step up" on your finger (for small birds) or hand (for large birds) by pressing against his belly, just above the legs. Offer praise and a favorite treat (such as a seed) for complying.

Ask your bird to "step up" at least a dozen times a day -- to leave his cage, to be petted, to move from room to room -- and you'll be on your way to having a well-mannered pet.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600