Universal Press Syndicate

Your dog barks nonstop. Your dog digs, ruining your yard. Your dog chews anything he can get his teeth on. What's missing from this picture? Chances are, it's exercise.

It's not news that we humans don't get enough exercise, so it's no surprise that our dogs aren't moving much either. While most pet lovers recognize that exercise is good for their dogs, few seem to make the connection between a lack of exercise and behavioral problems that have excess energy and boredom as components.

While environmental management (such as removing barking triggers or giving a dog something acceptable to chew) and training your dog are important, these strategies are only part of the solution. Dogs aren't getting the exercise they need, and it's causing problems.

Look at the big, active dogs we adore, such as the Labrador, golden retriever and German shepherd. These breeds are high on the American Kennel Club's list of the most popular. You don't have to go far down the popularity list to find other active breeds as well. Factor in the countless retriever and shepherd mixes, and you have a lot of dogs whose genetics have prepared them to work nonstop, but they spend their lives in small, boring backyards.

And what are they doing to burn off all that natural energy? You guessed it: barking, digging, chewing.

If you're thinking of getting a dog, think very seriously about what breed you want and whether you can provide an active dog with the exercise it needs. If you can't honestly say that your dog will get 30 minutes of heart-thumping aerobic exercise at least three to four days a week -- daily is better -- then you really ought to reconsider getting an active large breed.

Instead, consider the alternatives. For large breeds, look at the sight hounds, such as the greyhound, saluki or even the massive Irish wolfhound. These breeds were not developed to work all day like the retriever, husky and sheepdog, but rather to go all out for a short period of time and then chill out. They're big, but they're couch potatoes by choice. Many guarding breeds, such as Rottweilers, boxers and Akitas, also have relatively minimal exercise requirements. All dogs love and need their exercise, but not all dogs will go crazy if they don't get a ton of it.

Most small breeds are easy in the exercise department, too, not because they don't need a lot of exercise, but because it's not as difficult to exercise a small dog with short legs. A Yorkie, pug or corgi can get good exercise in a small yard or on a brisk walk.

If you must bring a large, active breed or mix into your home, then you also must meet your dog's needs when it comes to exercise.

Your efforts will pay off for you as well as your dog. Experts agree: A dog that gets plenty of exercise is less likely to develop behavior problems (and more likely to be able to overcome any behavior problems that are already established). Plus, an active dog will be less likely to suffer from life-shortening obesity.

So get out that leash. Find that ball. And make some time to get your dog out and running. Exercising your dog -- especially if you're a walker or runner -- is great for your own physical and mental health as well.

SIDEBAR

Tennis ball use must be supervised

Tennis balls are so popular with pet owners that many never see a tennis court -- they go straight to the dogs. In fact, some "tennis" balls are designed with dogs in mind, in decidedly non-regulation sizes and colors, and in super-tough materials designed to make it more difficult to pop the cover off or pierce the exterior and render a ball bounceless.

These popular playthings are not without risks, though. Veterinarians warn that tennis balls should be used for supervised retrieving play only and never allowed to be used as a chew toy. That's because a dog can compress the ball, which can then pop open in the back of the mouth, cutting off the air supply.

When used with caution, though, there's probably nothing more popular among dogs than tennis balls. And there's nothing that has inspired more related products, including pet toys that fling tennis balls (as in jai alai), drive them like golf balls or shoot them out at a batting cage. -- Gina Spadafori

Q&A

Why is my cat chewing cloth?

Q: My cat is obsessed with chewing on things, particularly items made of soft woven material, like the throw I have over the back of the couch. She'll suck on the throw and then chew holes in it. What's missing in her diet? -- W.P., via e-mail

A: Dogs will chew on almost anything, especially when they're puppies (destructive chewing is a common behavior complaint made by people with dogs).

But there is a destructive chewing problem in some cats, too. It's called "wool-sucking," because wool sweaters, blankets, etc., seem to be the most attractive to cats who have this behavior. (Some "wool-sucking" cats prefer plastic materials, such as the kind found in plastic grocery bags.) The chewing isn't quite like a dog's totally destructive gnaw-it-up, either: Wool-sucking cats typically work the same spot on a piece of cloth, sucking and chewing on that one spot continually.

Some have attributed this behavior to a kitten's being weaned too early or to the taste of lanolin in wool cloth. In fact, the behavior most likely has a hereditary component, since it's most common in the so-called Oriental breeds such as Siamese or their mixes.

In some cases, more roughage in the diet (such as pureed pumpkin) can reduce a cat's desire to destroy wool clothing and other household items. The best advice, though, is to put away what you don't want the wool-sucker to destroy and be sure your cat gets enough exercise -- the more interactive play the better -- to help reduce nervous energy. -- Gina Spadafori

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books.

On PetConnection.com there's more information on pets and their care, reviews of products, books and "dog cars," and a weekly drawing for pet-care prizes. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or visiting PetConnection.com.

PET TRIVIA

How hot is it? Check your cat

Cats sleep in one of two basic positions: upright (think of the New York Public Library lions) or on their sides. How curled a cat is when sleeping on her side will depend on how hot or cold the animal is. The more tightly curled a cat is, the colder the air temperature. Curling into a tight ball helps to conserve body heat. When cats stretch out, they expose their bellies, allowing for heat to escape and helping to cool them.

That said, cats generally like to be warm and will seek out all the warmest places in the home to sleep, as perhaps befitting an animal with its roots in the desert.

The tops of televisions (and before that, old cabinet-style radios) have long been popular. More recently, CRT computer monitors have been favorites with feline heat-seeking missiles. What's a cat to do now that more and more computer monitors are being replaced with flat-screen displays? -- Gina Spadafori

PET TIP

Dog spit no substitute for antiseptic

The idea that a dog's saliva has healing powers dates all the way back to the ancient Greeks and Romans, whose physicians believed it to be an antidote for poisoning.

Modern medicine doesn't look kindly on such theories, especially when the things a dog eats and licks get taken into account. So if you have a wound, try some antiseptic spray and a Band-Aid instead.

Why do dogs seem so interested in sniffing or licking wounds? One reason is that the serum that leaks from an open sore is sweet. -- Dr. Marty Becker

THE SCOOP

The secret behind that zooming cat

The average domestic cat can run at a speed of around 30 mph.

To put things in perspective, the thoroughbred is the fastest breed of horse and can maintain a speed of 45 mph for over a mile. The fastest greyhounds run at speeds of just under 42 mph for about a third of a mile. But it's a cat that takes the land speed record: the cheetah, which can hit 70 mph for several hundred yards.

Like the cheetah -- albeit, not as fast -- domestic cats are built for quick bursts of speed. And while you could never outrun a dog over distance, you could outrun a cat. A cat will quickly overheat when running and will have to stop after just 30 to 60 seconds to rest and cool down.

Before you outrun a cat, though, he'll probably be over the nearest fence: A cat can jump six times his own length from a sitting position. A cat's powerful thigh muscles coil and release incredible energy, allowing him to escape gravity and fly.

Cats who zoom around the room for no apparent reason actually do have a reason after all: They're burning off excess energy. This is especially true for indoor cats that don't get enough exercise or stimulation by way of play that emulates hunting.

In the wild, cats sleep by day, storing up the energy for explosive chases when they're hunting their meals at night.

For house cats, though, hunting involves sauntering into the kitchen to kill a bowl of food, which doesn't require much effort. That excess energy still needs to be burned off -- usually sometime around midnight, when you're trying to sleep. -- Dr. Marty Becker

BY THE NUMBERS

Good dog, safe dog

Although free-roaming, vicious dogs are the stuff of our nightmares, we are statistically more likely to be bitten by dogs we know. Experts say the numbers of serious or deadly dog bites can be dramatically reduced by neutering and by raising animals to be well-socialized, well-trained family members (as opposed to having neglected outdoor "protection" dogs).

Here are some dog-bite statistics from the U.S. Centers for Disease Control:

-- 80 percent of dog-bite incidents involving children are inflicted by a family dog (30 percent) or a neighbor's dog (50 percent).

-- 75 percent of fatal dog bites were inflicted on family members or guests on the family's property.

-- 8 percent of dog bites involving adults were work-related (inflicted on such workers as meter readers, repairmen, etc.).

PET RX

How much should a cat weigh?

An ideal weight for most cats is 8 to 12 pounds. Even the larger breeds of cat rarely exceed 15 pounds, with the exception of a few relatively rare breeds.

Some breeds of cat routinely weigh a few pounds more, though, without an ounce of fat on them. Among the heaviest breeds are Norwegian forest cats, Maine coon cats, rag dolls, Siberians and Turkish vans. In these breeds, the largest males routinely approach or top the 20-pound mark.

The Singapura is the smallest breed of cat, with females as tiny as 4 pounds. The Cornish rex, Devon rex and Japanese bobtail are also feline featherweights, weighing in at about 6 to 9 pounds.

Fat is unhealthy for cats, but crash diets can be deadly. Talk to your veterinarian about your cat's proper weight and how to attain it. -- Dr. Marty Becker.

Pet Connection is produced by a team of team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper, by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

One of the best things to happen to dogs and those who love them is the growth in popularity of off-leash recreation areas nationwide.

As open spaces dwindle and property values make the large suburban back yard a thing of the past, these dog parks have emerged as a way to provide what most dogs desperately need: more exercise. Sedentary dogs develop health issues, such as obesity, and behavior problems that are worsened by excess energy and boredom, such as digging, barking, destructive chewing and that catch-all complaint of dog lovers everywhere: "He's too hyper!"

Dog parks make dogs tired, and a tired dog is a happy, good dog.

But the free-wheeling atmosphere of a dog park is not a good fit with every canine, and it's important to know before you click off the leash if your dog belongs inside an off-leash recreation area. And you need to know a few things about your behavior, too, to make your pet's dog-park experience better and safer for all.

The best candidate for a dog park is a healthy, well-socialized and friendly dog of medium size or larger. Smaller dogs are more easily hurt, and shy ones can be intimidated. Dogs who are aggressive toward people or other dogs have absolutely no business in a dog park, no excuses.

Puppies who have not completed their course of vaccinations and haven't been cleared by the veterinarian for outings should also stay clear. That's because you just can't tell the disease status of other canine visitors. And until your pup's immunity is where it should be, you're taking a potentially deadly risk by introducing him to a dog park.

The biggest problem with dog parks is not the dogs, but the people. Some of those problems are caused by people who know better, but other conflicts could easily be prevented with a little knowledge and foresight on the part of dog owners who truly don't know better.

The preparation begins before you ever set foot inside a park with your dog. Don't go in with food (for either you or your dog) or with your dog's favorite toy, since these high-value items can trigger fights. Do go in with lots of clean-up bags, and be sure to use them.

Once inside, don't open a book or get too involved in socializing with the other dog lovers. Your dog needs to be monitored at all times to keep him out of trouble. Don't allow your dog to be bullied, and don't allow your dog to bully others. Sometimes the park mix isn't a good one, and you need to take your dog home.

Dog parks work only when people work at them. If park problems become more the rule than the exception, the trend will reverse and the dog park will disappear. Be responsible for your dog and help to keep the drive for more dog parks alive.

SIDEBAR

No leashes, but whose rules?

Despite the growing popularity of off-leash recreation for dogs, there are a few controversies when it comes to rules, primarily:

-- Children. Some who are looking for an outing with both their children and their pets want dog parks to be open to children. Proponents of "child-free" dog parks argue that children could get hurt by rambunctious dogs. If a child gets hurt, the dog will get blamed, they say, so it's better to leave children outside the gates.

-- Small dog/big dog. Some small dogs think they're big dogs. Some big dogs think small dogs are edible. The clash of attitudes does not work out well for small dogs. Many dog parks are now adding a separate area that's just for small dogs.

-- Fighting breeds. Pit bull terriers and other breeds developed for dog-fighting (and mixes of these breeds) are arguably not safe around other dogs. The pit bull advocacy group Bay Area Doglovers Responsible About Pit bulls (BAD RAP, www.badrap.org), warns: "Never trust a pit bull not to fight" and suggests other types of recreation for these dogs.

-- Unneutered male dogs. Young male dogs who have not been altered are generally more territorial and more likely to fight.

Of the four common dog-park controversies, only the small dog/big dog issue seems to be easily remedied to the satisfaction of all sides. While arguments continue over who should be allowed in, savvy dog-park users sensibly vote with their feet, taking their animals out whenever any situation starts to develop that could spell trouble. -- G.S.

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

On PetConnection.com there's more information on pets and their care, reviews of products, books and "dog cars," and a weekly drawing for pet-care prizes. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or visiting PetConnection.com.

Q&A

Don't teach pup to be finicky

Q: I have a 4-month-old toy poodle. He seems to be almost totally uninterested in food. He eats only a few bites a day of his dry food, and I spend most of my waking hours trying to dream up things he might be interested in eating, most to no avail.

He is not ill. He is incredibly playful and seems to be full of energy and vigor, but I don't know what the eating deal is. -- C.Y., via e-mail

A: You are teaching your dog to be a finicky eater. Look at it from his point of view. He's a normal, active puppy, easily distracted and wanting to play, play, play. Food? Just not that exciting.

You put down dry food. He'd rather play. You add something yummy, it catches his interest, and he eats. But the next day, he'd rather play. So you try something else ... and something else ... and something else.

What have you taught your pup? You've shown him that if he waits, something better (or at least different) will come along. Stop, or you'll soon be opening cans of caviar for him.

Puppies should be fed three times a day until the age of 6 months or so, when they can go to the twice-a-day schedule that adult dogs should be on. Don't keep food available at all times. It makes house-training more difficult and removes the power of food as a training tool. (Fresh water, on the other hand, should always be accessible.)

Give your little guy a quiet place to eat with no distractions. A crate is ideal, but a small room with a baby gate across it will also do. Put the food down and leave your pup alone for 15 to 20 minutes. Then pick up the food, eaten or not, and give your pet no food until the next scheduled feeding. Repeat at noon and at night.

Don't worry if he misses a meal. He won't starve. Resist the temptation to give him treats in between, because it doesn't take much to fill up a small dog.

If you want to add something to increase palatability, warm and add a little low-sodium, nonfat chicken broth. But that's it. Don't fall back into the habit of constantly finding something "better." Give your pet a high-quality food and teach him to eat what's offered. You'll both be better off.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PETS ON THE WEB

Diabetic cats get best advice on site

If only every chronic pet illness had a Web site as helpful and supportive as the one dedicated to feline diabetes (www.felinediabetes.com).

Administered by a cat-loving physician, the site offers everything an owner needs to know (but maybe didn't think to ask the veterinarian) about caring for a pet with this disease. What is it like to live with such an animal? You'll find that here, along with tips on using syringes and monitoring a pet's sugar levels. There's also a message board with thousands of posts on the challenges of the disease.

Feline Diabetes recently added an online store offering an innovative litter box that makes it easier to collect urine for testing. The box features washable, non-absorbent litter that can be rinsed with a mild antibacterial solution in anticipation of a diabetic cat's using it. The urine then flows into a reservoir for testing.

Any cat lover dealing with the diagnosis of feline diabetes absolutely must spend some time on this site. It's designed and developed with good science behind it, but also plenty of love. -- G.S.

PET Rx

Fiber can help eliminate hairballs

Tired of cleaning up hairballs? Add some fiber to your cat's diet.

A little bit of canned pumpkin -– plain pumpkin, not pumpkin pie filling -- added to your pet's regular meals will help the fur ingested by grooming to pass through the digestive system, instead of being thrown up onto your carpets. Combine it with canned food for palatability, or mix it with a little water from canned tuna or clams.

Regular combing and brushing also helps, especially if your pet has long hair. The fur you catch when grooming your cat won't end up as a hairball, or as hair you'll be cleaning off your clothes.

Canned pumpkin has an advantage over oil-based hairball remedies: Overusing the latter can decrease the absorption of some essential nutrients.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

THE SCOOP

Timely neutering can help end kitten surplus

With kitten season getting ready to roll, it's especially important to get those cats fixed. The advantages:

-- A neutered tomcat is less likely to roam, less likely to fight (and less likely to cost you money to patch him up), and less likely to spray urine to mark his territory. He's more likely to live longer, because the cat who's looking for a mate is really looking for trouble. If a car doesn't get him, infectious disease (spread by fighting or mating) or cancer may.

-- A spayed female is a more attentive and loving pet because her energy isn't constantly directed toward finding a mate. Cats are in heat nearly all the time until they become pregnant. If you spay your cat, you protect her from some cancers and infections, and from sexually transmitted infectious diseases.

"Spaying" and "neutering" are the everyday terms for the surgical sterilization of a pet. Neutering -- or altering -- is also used to describe both procedures. The technical terms for the two operations are "ovariohysterectomy," for the female, and "castration," for the male -- which pretty much explains why "spaying" and "neutering" are the preferred terms.

Most of the people who end up trying to find homes for kittens didn't mean for their pets to breed. They just didn't get a young cat to the veterinarian in time to prevent pregnancy. Your kitten can become pregnant before she's even half-grown, which is why many shelters these days alter cats before adoption, as early as 8 weeks of age.

If your cat is an accident waiting to happen, don't delay. The arguments are solid in favor of altering your pet, and you need go no farther than your local shelter to find them.

PET TIP

Basic bird manners start with "step up"

The "step up" command is basic to having a well-behaved pet parrot. Like dogs, birds are social climbers and will take advantage of the human who isn't perceived as leadership material. The bird who understands and reacts properly to "step up" is one who also knows you're in charge.

If you have a well-socialized young bird, you should be able to teach "step up" pretty easily. Start with your bird on your hand, or on a T-stand perch. Ask your bird to "step up" on your finger (for small birds) or hand (for large birds) by pressing against his belly, just above the legs. Offer praise and a favorite treat (such as a seed) for complying.

Ask your bird to "step up" at least a dozen times a day -- to leave his cage, to be petted, to move from room to room -- and you'll be on your way to having a well-mannered pet.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Universal Press Syndicate

This Fourth of July, as always, Americans will be enjoying the sights and sounds of fireworks. While we love the pyrotechnics, we need to remember our midsummer spectacular is no holiday for many of our pets.

While we humans are oohing and aahing, too often our pets are frightened out of their wits. They'll spend the holiday under the bed (or in the basement) cowering, shaking, drooling and seeking safety and comfort. And it's not just on the Fourth of July: Both cats and dogs can panic at loud noises such as thunder and gunfire as well.

Our golden retriever, Shakira, wouldn't flinch if a keg of gunpowder exploded next to him. Shop vacs, lawn mowers, grass trimmers, motorcycles, thunderstorms and fireworks elicit but a yawn. On the other hand, Quixote, our Yorkie/Pomeranian/Chihuahua mix, treats loud sounds as if the grim reaper were calling -- and there's no way she's going to answer. When it comes to loud sounds, this dog is a scaredy-cat.

But loud noises such as fireworks can startle and distress many pets, with their supersensitive hearing. Scared pets have been known to jump out of apartment windows, leap over or dig under fences, or chew their skin until it's raw. They may also bolt out an open door to become lost but never found.

Comforting scared pets seems the right thing to do, but it's not. Don't reward the fear. If you remain calm and don't baby them, they'll be closer to learning how to handle loud noises.

The best defense against Fourth of July problems is a good offense. Professional trainers and behaviorists start socializing dogs and making every potentially negative experience -- such as fireworks and thunderstorms -- into something rewarding. If a negative experience comes with tasty treats, then your pet is going to at least tolerate it, if not welcome it. This works best when started as a puppy, but don't give up hope if your dog is already an adult: New behaviors can be learned.

One way to help your pet is to expose him or her to commercial recordings of thunderstorms or fireworks and play them at increasing volume. Play the recordings at low volume -- recognizing how acute a pet's hearing is -- and give praise and treats. It's a party! As the volume and duration are increased during subsequent sessions, give them really tasty treats so they have the expectation of a repeat treat. Initially, play the recording for five minutes, eventually leaving it on during daily activities as "normal" background noise.

Also, provide pets with safe hiding spaces inside your home during the holiday fireworks or a storm. Dogs and cats who are comfortable in crates can find them a good place to ride out the noise, especially if the crate is put in a quiet, darkened part of the house.

Of course, some pets are so unhinged by noise that veterinary-prescribed tranquilizers are needed to keep them calm. Remember to call well in advance of the holiday, and give the medications as recommended -- they usually work best before the rockets' red glare begins. And talk to your veterinarian about other calming techniques. Some alternative-care veterinarians may recommend the herbal product Rescue Remedy, while others can show you acupressure and massage techniques to keep pets more calm.

This Independence Day, while we enjoy our parades, picnics and fireworks, don't forget your pet: He's counting on you!

SIDEBAR

The fear-fighters

For pets who continue to become upset at loud noises, there are some products that may help.

Head halters such as the Gentle Leader head collar mimic how mother dogs control and comfort their young by putting pressure on the bridge of the nose or behind the ear. You can also try the Calming Cap, a product that fits over a pet's head and eyes. The Gentle Leader head halter and Calming Cap are available through Premier products (www.premier.com, 888-640-8840).

The Anxiety Wrap (www.anxietywrap.com, 877-652-1266) applies gentle pressure to a dog's body to focus his attention away from what's scaring him. Advocates compare its use and effect to how whole-body pressure is used to calm overstimulated autistic children. -- Dr. Marty Becker

Q&A

Why should pets sleep in the bed?

Q: Is there any reason why a pet has to sleep in the house, much less in the bed? I want my fiancee's dog and her two cats tossed out before I move into her house. I had pets growing up, and they stayed outside. That's where animals belong. -- H.A., via e-mail

A: A long, long time ago, dogs slept in doghouses and cats, well, they catted around at night, maybe taking a catnap in the barn or an alley. Things sure have changed!

My wife and I live on a mile-high mountain in far Northern Idaho. It gets cold at night, so we sleep, year-round, with a comforter on our king-sized bed. Snuggled in with room to spare, Teresa and I start every night with the expectation of a restful night's sleep. In theory, this is how it should work, but it doesn't, thanks to Quixote, the little dog who shares our bed. (Or, should I say, Quixote allows us to share her bed.)

If I snore, Teresa elbows me in the ribs. If Quixote snores, she ignores it. If she pulls the comforter off me, I retaliate unconsciously and instantly, without concern for anything other than my own comfort, but I somehow make sure Quixote stays warm and toasty.

If I cross onto Teresa's side of the bed and make her uncomfortable, she waits but a nanosecond to push or shove me back onto my side of the bed or even onto the floor. But if Quixote decides she wants to sleep next to Teresa or on Teresa's pillow, or is wrapped around Teresa's head (trapping her in a semi-paralytic state for most of the night), my beautiful wife will not move a muscle or twitch an eyelash, because she doesn't want to interrupt the fur-queen's beauty sleep.

Despite the fact that Quixote has slept 18 of the last 24 hours, she gets another great night's sleep, while Teresa and I battle over the shut-eye scraps.

In our house, though, our pets are family. Your girlfriend clearly thinks the same of her pets, and you'd better straighten out this issue now or there'll be problems ahead. I'm guessing you won't succeed in getting the pets kicked out of the house. But having pets in the bed? That may be an area for compromise, especially if you have allergies or problems sleeping.

You might even learn to enjoy having pets as family. And there is an upside to sharing a bed with pets: You don't need an alarm clock. Your pets will get you up early in time for breakfast -- theirs, that is! -- Dr. Marty Becker

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books.

On PetConnection.com there's more information on pets and their care, reviews of products, books and "dog cars," and a weekly drawing for pet-care prizes. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or visiting PetConnection.com.

ON GOOD BEHAVIOR

Catching a runaway dog

If your dog is loose and you're trying to get him to come to you, call him if you think he'll head back your way. Timing is everything: Call him when he's still thinking about running away.

If you know he won't come when called (or if you see that he isn't going to come), don't chase after him. Instead, whoop happily and run away from your dog so he'll be interested enough to follow you. You'll be making the most of your dog's chase instinct.

Once he is running after you, turn toward him, squat, open your arms wide and call him in an enthusiastic, happy voice.

If he runs into your arms, hug and praise him, and give treats if you have them. While you should never let a dog off-leash who isn't trained to come when called, knowing what to do in an emergency can save your pet's life, especially if he starts to run into traffic, for example.

(Animal behavior experts Susan and Dr. Rolan Tripp are the authors of "On Good Behavior." For more information, visit their Web site at AnimalBehavior.net.)

THE SCOOP

Anatomy lesson: How many bones in cat?

There's no set answer when it comes to the question: How many bones does a cat have? The reason? Tails and toes.

A long-tailed cat will have more vertebrae than a Manx with no tail or a Manx mix with just part of a tail. And cats with extra toes -- they're called "polydactyls" -- will also have more bones than cats with normal paws.

The range is usually between 230 and 250 bones, with the average cat counting about 244 bones (if cats could or cared to count).

The average cat has about 30 more bones than we do. But we have something cats don't: collarbones. Not that a cat would consider that a disadvantage. Without a collarbone, a cat who's not overweight can fit his body through an opening the size of his head.

Two cats with identical tails and paws will still have a different bone count if one of the pair is male and the other female. That's because the male has a tiny bone called the "os penis." -- Dr. Marty Becker

PETS BY THE BOOK

Canine behavior books aims to help, entertain

Darlene Arden's "Rover, Get Off Her Leg" (HCI, $15) is a short and sassy book of canine training advice that aims right at the heart of the most common dog behavior issues.

Arden acknowledges her own "warped sense of humor" as being one of the driving forces behind the book, and she illustrates her training tips liberally with all the little moments that make life with dogs particularly embarrassing. Mixed in with the laughter, however, is enough good information that should help dog lovers find solutions, or to know when they're in over their heads and need to seek advice from a trainer or behaviorist.

This isn't a book for anyone hoping to train a dog for competitive obedience trials. But if you need to know how to get your 6-year-old Chihuahua to stop urinating on your dining-room carpet or biting your husband every time he kisses you, this is the book for you. And given that far more dogs are turned in to shelters for house-training issues and aggressive behavior, this book will save more than carpet and relationships -- it will save the lives of dogs.

In the same vein, Arden Moore's "The Dog Behavior Answer Book" (Storey Publishing, $15) offers snappy, short answers to common canine questions. Whether it's philosophical ponderings on the nature of dogs or the age-old question of what to do when your dog hates your boyfriend, Moore puts it all together in a fun package full of interesting facts and good advice. And it's the perfect gift for a dog lover, too. -- Christie Keith

BY THE NUMBERS

Rabbits rule

When it comes to small mammals as pets, rabbits are the most popular, followed by hamsters and guinea pigs. All small mammals are common children's pets, but most have considerable followings among adults as well. Among those households with small mammals as pets, here's how the animals' popularity ranked in 2004 (more than one answer allowed):

Rabbit 43 percent

Hamster 36 percent

Guinea pig 20 percent

Mouse/rat 8 percent

Ferret 7 percent

Gerbil 5 percent

Chinchilla 4 percent

Source: American Pet Products Manufacturers Association

PETS ON THE WEB

Pushing for pets in condominiums

Retiree-haven Florida may have the greatest number of people living in condominium developments, but the problems with the kind of self-rule practiced by these communities are by no means restricted to that state.

One of the biggest areas of conflict is over rules regarding pets. Size, breed and noise restrictions can sometimes seem arbitrary and even vengeful, forcing people to choose between their homes and their animal companions.

The Florida nonprofit "Citizens for Pets in Condos" (www.petsincondos.org) has a Web site with good information on how pet lovers can fight to keep their companion animals. The group is also pushing for legislative action to give condo owners the right to keep pets.

With an aging population and the proven benefits of having pets, especially to seniors, it is time to help people keep their pets no matter where they live. -- Gina Spadafori

Pet Connection is produced by a team of team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper, by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

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