pets

Running Free!

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | July 9th, 2007

One of the best things to happen to dogs and those who love them is the growth in popularity of off-leash recreation areas nationwide.

As open spaces dwindle and property values make the large suburban back yard a thing of the past, these dog parks have emerged as a way to provide what most dogs desperately need: more exercise. Sedentary dogs develop health issues, such as obesity, and behavior problems that are worsened by excess energy and boredom, such as digging, barking, destructive chewing and that catch-all complaint of dog lovers everywhere: "He's too hyper!"

Dog parks make dogs tired, and a tired dog is a happy, good dog.

But the free-wheeling atmosphere of a dog park is not a good fit with every canine, and it's important to know before you click off the leash if your dog belongs inside an off-leash recreation area. And you need to know a few things about your behavior, too, to make your pet's dog-park experience better and safer for all.

The best candidate for a dog park is a healthy, well-socialized and friendly dog of medium size or larger. Smaller dogs are more easily hurt, and shy ones can be intimidated. Dogs who are aggressive toward people or other dogs have absolutely no business in a dog park, no excuses.

Puppies who have not completed their course of vaccinations and haven't been cleared by the veterinarian for outings should also stay clear. That's because you just can't tell the disease status of other canine visitors. And until your pup's immunity is where it should be, you're taking a potentially deadly risk by introducing him to a dog park.

The biggest problem with dog parks is not the dogs, but the people. Some of those problems are caused by people who know better, but other conflicts could easily be prevented with a little knowledge and foresight on the part of dog owners who truly don't know better.

The preparation begins before you ever set foot inside a park with your dog. Don't go in with food (for either you or your dog) or with your dog's favorite toy, since these high-value items can trigger fights. Do go in with lots of clean-up bags, and be sure to use them.

Once inside, don't open a book or get too involved in socializing with the other dog lovers. Your dog needs to be monitored at all times to keep him out of trouble. Don't allow your dog to be bullied, and don't allow your dog to bully others. Sometimes the park mix isn't a good one, and you need to take your dog home.

Dog parks work only when people work at them. If park problems become more the rule than the exception, the trend will reverse and the dog park will disappear. Be responsible for your dog and help to keep the drive for more dog parks alive.

SIDEBAR

No leashes, but whose rules?

Despite the growing popularity of off-leash recreation for dogs, there are a few controversies when it comes to rules, primarily:

-- Children. Some who are looking for an outing with both their children and their pets want dog parks to be open to children. Proponents of "child-free" dog parks argue that children could get hurt by rambunctious dogs. If a child gets hurt, the dog will get blamed, they say, so it's better to leave children outside the gates.

-- Small dog/big dog. Some small dogs think they're big dogs. Some big dogs think small dogs are edible. The clash of attitudes does not work out well for small dogs. Many dog parks are now adding a separate area that's just for small dogs.

-- Fighting breeds. Pit bull terriers and other breeds developed for dog-fighting (and mixes of these breeds) are arguably not safe around other dogs. The pit bull advocacy group Bay Area Doglovers Responsible About Pit bulls (BAD RAP, www.badrap.org), warns: "Never trust a pit bull not to fight" and suggests other types of recreation for these dogs.

-- Unneutered male dogs. Young male dogs who have not been altered are generally more territorial and more likely to fight.

Of the four common dog-park controversies, only the small dog/big dog issue seems to be easily remedied to the satisfaction of all sides. While arguments continue over who should be allowed in, savvy dog-park users sensibly vote with their feet, taking their animals out whenever any situation starts to develop that could spell trouble. -- G.S.

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

On PetConnection.com there's more information on pets and their care, reviews of products, books and "dog cars," and a weekly drawing for pet-care prizes. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or visiting PetConnection.com.

Q&A

Don't teach pup to be finicky

Q: I have a 4-month-old toy poodle. He seems to be almost totally uninterested in food. He eats only a few bites a day of his dry food, and I spend most of my waking hours trying to dream up things he might be interested in eating, most to no avail.

He is not ill. He is incredibly playful and seems to be full of energy and vigor, but I don't know what the eating deal is. -- C.Y., via e-mail

A: You are teaching your dog to be a finicky eater. Look at it from his point of view. He's a normal, active puppy, easily distracted and wanting to play, play, play. Food? Just not that exciting.

You put down dry food. He'd rather play. You add something yummy, it catches his interest, and he eats. But the next day, he'd rather play. So you try something else ... and something else ... and something else.

What have you taught your pup? You've shown him that if he waits, something better (or at least different) will come along. Stop, or you'll soon be opening cans of caviar for him.

Puppies should be fed three times a day until the age of 6 months or so, when they can go to the twice-a-day schedule that adult dogs should be on. Don't keep food available at all times. It makes house-training more difficult and removes the power of food as a training tool. (Fresh water, on the other hand, should always be accessible.)

Give your little guy a quiet place to eat with no distractions. A crate is ideal, but a small room with a baby gate across it will also do. Put the food down and leave your pup alone for 15 to 20 minutes. Then pick up the food, eaten or not, and give your pet no food until the next scheduled feeding. Repeat at noon and at night.

Don't worry if he misses a meal. He won't starve. Resist the temptation to give him treats in between, because it doesn't take much to fill up a small dog.

If you want to add something to increase palatability, warm and add a little low-sodium, nonfat chicken broth. But that's it. Don't fall back into the habit of constantly finding something "better." Give your pet a high-quality food and teach him to eat what's offered. You'll both be better off.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PETS ON THE WEB

Diabetic cats get best advice on site

If only every chronic pet illness had a Web site as helpful and supportive as the one dedicated to feline diabetes (www.felinediabetes.com).

Administered by a cat-loving physician, the site offers everything an owner needs to know (but maybe didn't think to ask the veterinarian) about caring for a pet with this disease. What is it like to live with such an animal? You'll find that here, along with tips on using syringes and monitoring a pet's sugar levels. There's also a message board with thousands of posts on the challenges of the disease.

Feline Diabetes recently added an online store offering an innovative litter box that makes it easier to collect urine for testing. The box features washable, non-absorbent litter that can be rinsed with a mild antibacterial solution in anticipation of a diabetic cat's using it. The urine then flows into a reservoir for testing.

Any cat lover dealing with the diagnosis of feline diabetes absolutely must spend some time on this site. It's designed and developed with good science behind it, but also plenty of love. -- G.S.

PET Rx

Fiber can help eliminate hairballs

Tired of cleaning up hairballs? Add some fiber to your cat's diet.

A little bit of canned pumpkin -– plain pumpkin, not pumpkin pie filling -- added to your pet's regular meals will help the fur ingested by grooming to pass through the digestive system, instead of being thrown up onto your carpets. Combine it with canned food for palatability, or mix it with a little water from canned tuna or clams.

Regular combing and brushing also helps, especially if your pet has long hair. The fur you catch when grooming your cat won't end up as a hairball, or as hair you'll be cleaning off your clothes.

Canned pumpkin has an advantage over oil-based hairball remedies: Overusing the latter can decrease the absorption of some essential nutrients.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

THE SCOOP

Timely neutering can help end kitten surplus

With kitten season getting ready to roll, it's especially important to get those cats fixed. The advantages:

-- A neutered tomcat is less likely to roam, less likely to fight (and less likely to cost you money to patch him up), and less likely to spray urine to mark his territory. He's more likely to live longer, because the cat who's looking for a mate is really looking for trouble. If a car doesn't get him, infectious disease (spread by fighting or mating) or cancer may.

-- A spayed female is a more attentive and loving pet because her energy isn't constantly directed toward finding a mate. Cats are in heat nearly all the time until they become pregnant. If you spay your cat, you protect her from some cancers and infections, and from sexually transmitted infectious diseases.

"Spaying" and "neutering" are the everyday terms for the surgical sterilization of a pet. Neutering -- or altering -- is also used to describe both procedures. The technical terms for the two operations are "ovariohysterectomy," for the female, and "castration," for the male -- which pretty much explains why "spaying" and "neutering" are the preferred terms.

Most of the people who end up trying to find homes for kittens didn't mean for their pets to breed. They just didn't get a young cat to the veterinarian in time to prevent pregnancy. Your kitten can become pregnant before she's even half-grown, which is why many shelters these days alter cats before adoption, as early as 8 weeks of age.

If your cat is an accident waiting to happen, don't delay. The arguments are solid in favor of altering your pet, and you need go no farther than your local shelter to find them.

PET TIP

Basic bird manners start with "step up"

The "step up" command is basic to having a well-behaved pet parrot. Like dogs, birds are social climbers and will take advantage of the human who isn't perceived as leadership material. The bird who understands and reacts properly to "step up" is one who also knows you're in charge.

If you have a well-socialized young bird, you should be able to teach "step up" pretty easily. Start with your bird on your hand, or on a T-stand perch. Ask your bird to "step up" on your finger (for small birds) or hand (for large birds) by pressing against his belly, just above the legs. Offer praise and a favorite treat (such as a seed) for complying.

Ask your bird to "step up" at least a dozen times a day -- to leave his cage, to be petted, to move from room to room -- and you'll be on your way to having a well-mannered pet.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

pets

A Fear Free Fourth

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | July 2nd, 2007

Universal Press Syndicate

This Fourth of July, as always, Americans will be enjoying the sights and sounds of fireworks. While we love the pyrotechnics, we need to remember our midsummer spectacular is no holiday for many of our pets.

While we humans are oohing and aahing, too often our pets are frightened out of their wits. They'll spend the holiday under the bed (or in the basement) cowering, shaking, drooling and seeking safety and comfort. And it's not just on the Fourth of July: Both cats and dogs can panic at loud noises such as thunder and gunfire as well.

Our golden retriever, Shakira, wouldn't flinch if a keg of gunpowder exploded next to him. Shop vacs, lawn mowers, grass trimmers, motorcycles, thunderstorms and fireworks elicit but a yawn. On the other hand, Quixote, our Yorkie/Pomeranian/Chihuahua mix, treats loud sounds as if the grim reaper were calling -- and there's no way she's going to answer. When it comes to loud sounds, this dog is a scaredy-cat.

But loud noises such as fireworks can startle and distress many pets, with their supersensitive hearing. Scared pets have been known to jump out of apartment windows, leap over or dig under fences, or chew their skin until it's raw. They may also bolt out an open door to become lost but never found.

Comforting scared pets seems the right thing to do, but it's not. Don't reward the fear. If you remain calm and don't baby them, they'll be closer to learning how to handle loud noises.

The best defense against Fourth of July problems is a good offense. Professional trainers and behaviorists start socializing dogs and making every potentially negative experience -- such as fireworks and thunderstorms -- into something rewarding. If a negative experience comes with tasty treats, then your pet is going to at least tolerate it, if not welcome it. This works best when started as a puppy, but don't give up hope if your dog is already an adult: New behaviors can be learned.

One way to help your pet is to expose him or her to commercial recordings of thunderstorms or fireworks and play them at increasing volume. Play the recordings at low volume -- recognizing how acute a pet's hearing is -- and give praise and treats. It's a party! As the volume and duration are increased during subsequent sessions, give them really tasty treats so they have the expectation of a repeat treat. Initially, play the recording for five minutes, eventually leaving it on during daily activities as "normal" background noise.

Also, provide pets with safe hiding spaces inside your home during the holiday fireworks or a storm. Dogs and cats who are comfortable in crates can find them a good place to ride out the noise, especially if the crate is put in a quiet, darkened part of the house.

Of course, some pets are so unhinged by noise that veterinary-prescribed tranquilizers are needed to keep them calm. Remember to call well in advance of the holiday, and give the medications as recommended -- they usually work best before the rockets' red glare begins. And talk to your veterinarian about other calming techniques. Some alternative-care veterinarians may recommend the herbal product Rescue Remedy, while others can show you acupressure and massage techniques to keep pets more calm.

This Independence Day, while we enjoy our parades, picnics and fireworks, don't forget your pet: He's counting on you!

SIDEBAR

The fear-fighters

For pets who continue to become upset at loud noises, there are some products that may help.

Head halters such as the Gentle Leader head collar mimic how mother dogs control and comfort their young by putting pressure on the bridge of the nose or behind the ear. You can also try the Calming Cap, a product that fits over a pet's head and eyes. The Gentle Leader head halter and Calming Cap are available through Premier products (www.premier.com, 888-640-8840).

The Anxiety Wrap (www.anxietywrap.com, 877-652-1266) applies gentle pressure to a dog's body to focus his attention away from what's scaring him. Advocates compare its use and effect to how whole-body pressure is used to calm overstimulated autistic children. -- Dr. Marty Becker

Q&A

Why should pets sleep in the bed?

Q: Is there any reason why a pet has to sleep in the house, much less in the bed? I want my fiancee's dog and her two cats tossed out before I move into her house. I had pets growing up, and they stayed outside. That's where animals belong. -- H.A., via e-mail

A: A long, long time ago, dogs slept in doghouses and cats, well, they catted around at night, maybe taking a catnap in the barn or an alley. Things sure have changed!

My wife and I live on a mile-high mountain in far Northern Idaho. It gets cold at night, so we sleep, year-round, with a comforter on our king-sized bed. Snuggled in with room to spare, Teresa and I start every night with the expectation of a restful night's sleep. In theory, this is how it should work, but it doesn't, thanks to Quixote, the little dog who shares our bed. (Or, should I say, Quixote allows us to share her bed.)

If I snore, Teresa elbows me in the ribs. If Quixote snores, she ignores it. If she pulls the comforter off me, I retaliate unconsciously and instantly, without concern for anything other than my own comfort, but I somehow make sure Quixote stays warm and toasty.

If I cross onto Teresa's side of the bed and make her uncomfortable, she waits but a nanosecond to push or shove me back onto my side of the bed or even onto the floor. But if Quixote decides she wants to sleep next to Teresa or on Teresa's pillow, or is wrapped around Teresa's head (trapping her in a semi-paralytic state for most of the night), my beautiful wife will not move a muscle or twitch an eyelash, because she doesn't want to interrupt the fur-queen's beauty sleep.

Despite the fact that Quixote has slept 18 of the last 24 hours, she gets another great night's sleep, while Teresa and I battle over the shut-eye scraps.

In our house, though, our pets are family. Your girlfriend clearly thinks the same of her pets, and you'd better straighten out this issue now or there'll be problems ahead. I'm guessing you won't succeed in getting the pets kicked out of the house. But having pets in the bed? That may be an area for compromise, especially if you have allergies or problems sleeping.

You might even learn to enjoy having pets as family. And there is an upside to sharing a bed with pets: You don't need an alarm clock. Your pets will get you up early in time for breakfast -- theirs, that is! -- Dr. Marty Becker

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books.

On PetConnection.com there's more information on pets and their care, reviews of products, books and "dog cars," and a weekly drawing for pet-care prizes. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or visiting PetConnection.com.

ON GOOD BEHAVIOR

Catching a runaway dog

If your dog is loose and you're trying to get him to come to you, call him if you think he'll head back your way. Timing is everything: Call him when he's still thinking about running away.

If you know he won't come when called (or if you see that he isn't going to come), don't chase after him. Instead, whoop happily and run away from your dog so he'll be interested enough to follow you. You'll be making the most of your dog's chase instinct.

Once he is running after you, turn toward him, squat, open your arms wide and call him in an enthusiastic, happy voice.

If he runs into your arms, hug and praise him, and give treats if you have them. While you should never let a dog off-leash who isn't trained to come when called, knowing what to do in an emergency can save your pet's life, especially if he starts to run into traffic, for example.

(Animal behavior experts Susan and Dr. Rolan Tripp are the authors of "On Good Behavior." For more information, visit their Web site at AnimalBehavior.net.)

THE SCOOP

Anatomy lesson: How many bones in cat?

There's no set answer when it comes to the question: How many bones does a cat have? The reason? Tails and toes.

A long-tailed cat will have more vertebrae than a Manx with no tail or a Manx mix with just part of a tail. And cats with extra toes -- they're called "polydactyls" -- will also have more bones than cats with normal paws.

The range is usually between 230 and 250 bones, with the average cat counting about 244 bones (if cats could or cared to count).

The average cat has about 30 more bones than we do. But we have something cats don't: collarbones. Not that a cat would consider that a disadvantage. Without a collarbone, a cat who's not overweight can fit his body through an opening the size of his head.

Two cats with identical tails and paws will still have a different bone count if one of the pair is male and the other female. That's because the male has a tiny bone called the "os penis." -- Dr. Marty Becker

PETS BY THE BOOK

Canine behavior books aims to help, entertain

Darlene Arden's "Rover, Get Off Her Leg" (HCI, $15) is a short and sassy book of canine training advice that aims right at the heart of the most common dog behavior issues.

Arden acknowledges her own "warped sense of humor" as being one of the driving forces behind the book, and she illustrates her training tips liberally with all the little moments that make life with dogs particularly embarrassing. Mixed in with the laughter, however, is enough good information that should help dog lovers find solutions, or to know when they're in over their heads and need to seek advice from a trainer or behaviorist.

This isn't a book for anyone hoping to train a dog for competitive obedience trials. But if you need to know how to get your 6-year-old Chihuahua to stop urinating on your dining-room carpet or biting your husband every time he kisses you, this is the book for you. And given that far more dogs are turned in to shelters for house-training issues and aggressive behavior, this book will save more than carpet and relationships -- it will save the lives of dogs.

In the same vein, Arden Moore's "The Dog Behavior Answer Book" (Storey Publishing, $15) offers snappy, short answers to common canine questions. Whether it's philosophical ponderings on the nature of dogs or the age-old question of what to do when your dog hates your boyfriend, Moore puts it all together in a fun package full of interesting facts and good advice. And it's the perfect gift for a dog lover, too. -- Christie Keith

BY THE NUMBERS

Rabbits rule

When it comes to small mammals as pets, rabbits are the most popular, followed by hamsters and guinea pigs. All small mammals are common children's pets, but most have considerable followings among adults as well. Among those households with small mammals as pets, here's how the animals' popularity ranked in 2004 (more than one answer allowed):

Rabbit 43 percent

Hamster 36 percent

Guinea pig 20 percent

Mouse/rat 8 percent

Ferret 7 percent

Gerbil 5 percent

Chinchilla 4 percent

Source: American Pet Products Manufacturers Association

PETS ON THE WEB

Pushing for pets in condominiums

Retiree-haven Florida may have the greatest number of people living in condominium developments, but the problems with the kind of self-rule practiced by these communities are by no means restricted to that state.

One of the biggest areas of conflict is over rules regarding pets. Size, breed and noise restrictions can sometimes seem arbitrary and even vengeful, forcing people to choose between their homes and their animal companions.

The Florida nonprofit "Citizens for Pets in Condos" (www.petsincondos.org) has a Web site with good information on how pet lovers can fight to keep their companion animals. The group is also pushing for legislative action to give condo owners the right to keep pets.

With an aging population and the proven benefits of having pets, especially to seniors, it is time to help people keep their pets no matter where they live. -- Gina Spadafori

Pet Connection is produced by a team of team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper, by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

pets

Click for a Puppy?

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | June 25th, 2007

By Christie Keith

Universal Press Syndicate

When Dr. Helen Hamilton of Fremont, Calif., noticed an upswing in very sick puppies coming into her veterinary practice, she started asking her clients where they got their pets.

What she found surprised her: They were coming from the Internet.

Consumers can buy anything from a book to a car online, so it might seem perfectly logical to buy a new family pet the same way. But when Hamilton and her staff went to the source of some Internet puppies, what she discovered horrified her.

"There were dogs with no eyes, dogs missing ears, dogs with old, untended bite wounds and cage wire injuries," she said. "We saw, over two days, two different females in labor go on the auction block."

Hamilton was part of a team of veterinarians and veterinary technicians who brought back 49 dogs from the dispersal auction of a breeding operation. The dogs were not only in poor physical condition, but most of them were also fearful and shy of people. That's because they'd spent their lives isolated from loving human contact while producing puppies for the pet trade.

One such dog was Sunshine, a golden retriever so afraid of people that she had to be lifted out of the van, shaking so hard her teeth chattered -- a hard thing to see, given the usual happy, tail-wagging, people-crazy nature of the breed. Another was Savannah, a miniature dachshund who huddled in her crate, crusted with diarrhea and weighing only 6 1/2 pounds -- around half her healthy body weight.

"She was suffering from malnutrition from being loaded with hookworm and whipworm," Hamilton said. "She was emaciated. And she must have been starved, because I can find no other medical problems to account for her condition."

All the dogs brought back on their most recent trip to a dog auction site in Oklahoma were suffering from health problems, many of them genetic. There were dogs missing an eye or an ear or part of a tail, dogs with inguinal hernias from having too many litters, dogs with evidence of do-it-yourself C-sections.

All of these dogs were cleaned up, vaccinated, spayed or neutered, wormed and treated for other medical conditions. All are now being placed in loving homes. But while everyone involved knows that they're making a difference for these particular dogs, they acknowledge they're not even making a dent in the overall problem.

"There are thousands of dogs that run through the auction. You can only buy a few," Hamilton said. "But that's not the point. Of course we want to get the dogs out and get them in loving homes. But the real point of doing this is to draw attention to the lives these dogs live.

"We want someone who feels the impulse to get a puppy on the Web to stop and think -- not about that cute puppy, but about his mother and father back at the puppy mill," she said. "Those dogs are spending their entire lives in tiny cages and cramped, filthy runs. And once they realize that, they'll think again and walk away."

Hamilton is working to place the dogs she brought back into new homes. But she stresses that the only real way to help the Sunshines and Savannahs still in the well-documented filth of puppy mills is simple: Stop buying those kinds of puppies.

"It's a money-driven industry, and the only way to stop it is when people become educated not to buy puppies from these sources," she said.

SIDEBAR

What is a 'puppy mill'?

The appeal of puppies as a retail item goes back at least as far as the old song "(How Much Is) That Doggie in the Window?" But cruelty in the high-volume breeding operations that feed the pet trade has been documented for decades.

While there are operations that practice husbandry at least as humane as that offered to livestock, other breeding businesses care little for their animals. And even the "good" commercial breeders do not offer what behaviorists argue is essential for a temperamentally sound family pet: constant in-house exposure to normal family life and gentle socialization by all manner of people.

"Commercial kennels" become "puppy mills" when animals are housed in inhumane and filthy conditions, offered little in the way of proper medical care and disposed of when they're no longer productive as breeding stock.

There's really no way to determine what misery may exist behind the puppy you're buying unless you investigate. At the very minimum, buy only from people who are happy to show you their kennels in person. Even better is when the puppies aren't kenneled at all, but raised and socialized in the house.

While investigating a puppy's background isn't as easy as ordering with a few online clicks, you'll likely get a healthier, happier pet -- and you'll know you won't be supporting a puppy mill. -- Gina Spadafori

Q&A

'Speed eating' the sport of the Labrador

Q: One of our dogs (our yellow Lab) doesn't eat his dinner -- he inhales it! It can't be very healthy, and we'd like to slow him down. He has been with us since he was a puppy, so it's not as if he doesn't know where his next meal is coming from. Suggestions? -- L.L., via e-mail

A: Dogs only have about 1,500 taste buds, vs. 10,000 for people, so in their minds, haste beats taste. Eating is often a mechanical act designed to fulfill a nutrient need as opposed to a gourmet experience. Although few household pets have to worry about starving -- in fact about half of all dogs are overweight -- dogs never stray far from their prehistoric roots. When your dog's ancestors were sharing an elk they'd pulled down, they each wanted to make sure they got their own share. They don't call it "wolfing down" food for no reason, after all.

You can slow down your dog some, though. Dogs tend to eat more quickly when other dogs are around. So since you have more than one dog, feed them at different times or out of sight of each other. Also, give them more time to eat before you pick up their bowl, or leave their empty bowls on the floor for a half-hour after they finish eating. Other experts suggest putting a large object in the bowl along with the food. The dog has to eat around the object, thus slowing him down. A plastic ball or Kong toy works well -- a big size for big dogs and a smaller size for the little guys.

Don't be too disappointed, though, if nothing slows down your Labrador. Retrievers in general seem to be about the most enthusiastic eaters around, with Labs at the top of the list for fast eating and putting on weight easily. (Roly-poly Labs are more common than not and seem, along with beagles and pugs, to lead in the ability to pack on the pounds.) Labs love eating so much that most pet food companies have banned them from the testing rooms as they won't slow down enough to discriminate one flavor from the next.

You can try to slow down your dog, but as long as he's healthy and not overweight, don't worry too much about the wolfing. -- Dr. Marty Becker

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books.

On PetConnection.com there's more information on pets and their care, reviews of products, books and "dog cars," and a weekly drawing for pet-care prizes. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or visiting PetConnection.com.

PET Rx

New vaccine is promising

"Man's best friend" took on a new meaning and a step forward recently at the American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine's national convention in Seattle.

After 6 1/2 years of research and testing at Animal Medical Center and Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center in New York, a vaccine aimed at treating canine skin cancer (melanoma) patients was introduced by the drug company Merial, after receiving conditional approval March 26 from the U.S. Department of Agriculture.

Dr. Philip Bergman, director of AMC's Donaldson-Atwood Cancer Clinic and Flaherty Comparative Oncology Laboratory, who partnered the research lead with Dr. Jedd Wolchok, an oncologist on the Clinical Immunology Service at Sloan-Kettering, called the breakthrough a landmark in veterinary medicine.

Not only is this the first veterinary cancer vaccine on the market, but it also offers hope for human patients with melanoma. The conditional licensure is for surgically removed oral melanoma, but Bergman sees many oncologists using it off-label for other melanomas.

"The vaccine," Bergman said, "tricks the body into recognizing cancer as a foreign entry. Then the body acts to eliminate it. The same strategy we have used in dogs is now working in people." The aggressive diseases are very similar and metastasize in the same places (namely the mouth, toenail bed and foot pad), and are chemotherapy-resistant.

While the vaccine is still on a USDA conditional status, it nevertheless offers canine melanoma patients' owners considerable hope. Prior to testing in 2000, dogs diagnosed with the disease and treated with conventional means (surgery, radiation and chemotherapy) survived only weeks or months. Patients from that initial study enjoyed a median survival of 389 days, but some lived between three and five years, succumbing to a cause other than melanoma.

The vaccine will be available only through veterinary oncologists, since it is still considered a test product, which allows Merial stronger data control. Four vials (one is injected every two weeks into the inner thigh) begin the treatment, followed by boosters at six-month intervals for the remainder of the animal's life. The four-vial packet is priced at $1,000 to practitioners, who will then determine the markup price. Dosage is the same for a 150-pound Great Dane and 10-pound Chihuahua. -- Ranny Green

THE SCOOP

Catnip a perfectly safe 'trip' for cats

Not all cats like catnip. The ability to appreciate the herb is genetic, with slightly more cats in the fan club than not. These hardwired preferences aren't immediately apparent, though, since kittens under the age of 3 months don't react to catnip at all.

Among those cats who do like catnip, you'll find two basic kinds of reactions: Your cat may seem to become a lazy drunk or a wired-up crazy. Credit a substance called "nepetalactone," which is found in the leaves and stems and causes the mood-altering behavior.

Is catnip safe? While some cat experts recommend that you buy only organically raised products, the consensus is that you can treat your cat as often as you (and your cat) wish. Catnip is considered to be nonaddictive and harmless.

It's also relatively easy to grow. Get seeds or seedlings from any garden-supply center, and put the pots in a place where your cat can't get to them. That's because some enthusiastic cats will pull the plants out by the roots!

When you have your catnip plant well-established, snip off fresh sprigs and rub them on scratching posts and cat trees, or stuff them into toys. Your cat will love the fresh stuff even more.

Another plant that provides pleasure to cats is valerian, so grow some of that, too. And don't forget that still other plants are just good eating, especially grasses. Keep tender shoots of grasses growing in low, long planters, and your cat will love nibbling them. -- Gina Spadafori

PETS BY THE NUMBERS

Getting help with the cat

Hiring a pet sitter is by far the most common service hired by cat lovers, and it's becoming even more popular. In 2002, 50 percent reported using a cat sitter in the last six months; in 2004, 62 percent had. Popular cat services, in 2004:

Pet-sitting at home 62 percent

Other service 16 percent

Boarding 15 percent

Pet transport 7 percent

Source: American Pet Products Manufacturers Association

ON GOOD BEHAVIOR

Follow 'bad stuff' with a good treat

Do you remember when you were a child and you got to dig through that treasure chest in the dentist's office or got that lollipop after a doctor's visit or haircut? You can apply the same principle to increasing good behavior from your pet.

Just as with children, dogs will learn to anticipate a treat after predictable events such as getting brushed, bathed or given pills. If you give them a treat every time, you will help get your dog's mind on the treat instead of the somewhat unpleasant activity.

Always praise cooperative, good behavior during trying activities with a treat, and praise them as a final reward and a signal that you are done with the bad stuff.

(Animal behavior experts Susan and Dr. Rolan Tripp are the authors of "On Good Behavior." For more information, visit their Web site at AnimalBehavior.net.)

Pet Connection is produced by a team of team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper, by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

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