pets

Playing It Safe

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | March 5th, 2007

By DR. MARTY BECKER

Universal Press Syndicate

Sometimes the news about dangers to humans from animal-carried diseases reads like an installment from the Threat-of-the-Month Club. And you have to wonder: Are the pets who live in our homes and sleep on our sofas a health risk?

In a word, "yes." In a few more words, "not really." The risk of your well-cared-for pet making you sick are low and can be made even lower by taking a few commonsense precautions. As I often say, "Get rid of the risk and keep the pet."

Pets can harbor parasites and transmit diseases that might endanger our health. These cross-species dangers are known as "zoonoses," with rabies being the most deadly. Rabies is also the best example of a public health triumph when it comes to an animal-borne threat. Where the cry of "Mad dog!" once terrified towns across the country -- remember that scene in "To Kill a Mockingbird"? -- today, legally mandated rabies vaccination programs have made the disease something you're more likely to get from a wild animal than a stray dog.

The most common threats to human health these days come from zoonotic diseases that are less deadly than rabies. One of the best-known is toxoplasmosis, from a parasite that infects nearly all mammals, including humans. While most people are not adversely affected by exposure to toxoplasmosis, pregnant women and those with depressed immune function are at risk. Toxoplasmosis can be transmitted through cat feces, so those at risk should have someone else change the litter box. Again, reduce the risk and keep the pet!

Salmonella has long been a concern, with outbreaks recently occurring in people who've handled pet reptiles or rodents infected with the bacteria. Other diseases include giardiasis (caused by a parasite), leptospirosis (caused by a bacteria), and ringworm (caused not by a worm, but by a fungus).

Now that I've scared you, remember you're more likely to catch a cold from your co-worker than something from your healthy pet. And while you can't do much about the co-worker who comes to work sick and sneezes all over you, you can protect yourself from zoonotic disease with a few simple precautions:

-- Use good, basic hygiene, and be sure your children are doing the same. Hand-washing is the cornerstone of disease prevention, so be sure everyone washes up with soap and water (or an antibacterial hand cleaner if bathroom facilities are not available) after handling pets, and especially before preparing food or eating.

-- Consider sources carefully when choosing pets, especially reptiles and rodents. Don't buy from a source that doesn't seem to practice good hygiene in animal-care areas. Families with young children, elderly relatives or immune-suppressed members ought to consider not choosing rodent or reptile pets at all.

-- Follow your veterinarian's advice on keeping pets free of all parasites. Puppies and kittens need to be de-wormed, and both dogs and cats should be on a heartworm preventive that also controls the most common intestinal parasites.

-- Keep your pet up-to-date on vaccinations and don't skip regular "well pet" visits. Annual vaccinations are no longer recommended across the board. Instead, veterinary organizations now recommend tailoring vaccines to an individual pet's needs, taking into account that animal's lifestyle and the risks prevalent in the region. Don't let reduced vaccination schedules become an excuse to skip regular physicals. A healthy pet is your best protection against zoonotic disease.

-- Handle pet waste properly. Pick up after your dog immediately, and keep the cat's litter box clean. Dispose of waste safely by putting it in a composting digester (not your garden's compost pile), or by wrapping it up and placing it in your garbage bin.

-- Keep pets away from outdoor water sources, which may introduce parasites. Toilet water may do the same, so if your pet likes to drink from the bowl, keep the lid down. On walks, carry fresh water for your dog.

When in doubt, talk to your veterinarian. No other health-care professional sees both pets and people. The nation's veterinarians are front-line troops in the war on animal disease -- and that includes keeping those diseases from making us sick. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention also has an excellent collection of information on its Healthy Pets Web site (www.cdc.gov/healthypets).

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books.

On PetConnection.com there's more information on pets and their care, reviews of products, books and "dogmobiles," and a weekly drawing for pet-care prizes. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or visiting PetConnection.com.

Q&A

Canine seatbelts really necessary?

Q: My husband and I have had dogs for more than 37 years, and we've taken them all across the country in the car. I want you to know we've never put them in a crate or seatbelt harness. Instead, we've trained them to behave.

I just don't think crates and seatbelts are such a good idea. A human can take off the seat belt and get out, but a dog can't. I think it's a trade-off, and I wonder if the risk of hitting the windshield is greater than being trapped in the car. Our attitude: We've never had a problem, so why change what we're doing? I think it's just an excuse to get us to buy more stuff. -- W.S., via e-mail

A: Anyone who has ever been through driver training has seen images of crash-test dummies flying forward into the windshield. It won't even take a major accident at a high rate of speed to turn your dog into unsecured cargo, flying around the car at risk to himself and all other passengers.

But it's not just about the impact. Having a dog secured is also safer after an accident. Emergency personnel can work more safely around a secured dog. If you are incapacitated, animal-control officials will be more able to care for a dog they don't have to catch. After an accident, a loose dog could even bite someone, from fear, injury or protectiveness.

It doesn't take much of a leap of logic to see that securing animals in a moving vehicle is just as good an idea as securing people or cargo. For the safety of your pet, of the other occupants of the car and of everyone else on the road endangered by a driver's distraction, resolve to start securing your dog.

It doesn't matter that you've been lucky so far. Your luck could change tomorrow, and you'll all be safer if your pets are secured. Old dogs can learn new tricks, and we older pet lovers can, too! -- Gina Spadafori

Greens for iguana

Q: What should I feed my iguana? I just got one, and there's different information all over the Internet. -- P.T., via e-mail

A: Iguanas should be fed plant matter only, a mixture of vegetation that's high in calcium but low in phosphorus and fat. Choices include mustard, collard and turnip greens, as well as yams, carrots, alfalfa sprouts, alfalfa hay and squash.

Chop the vegetables into sizes that can be easily handled by the pet, mix them up, and store them in the refrigerator in an airtight container. Offer small amounts twice a day, and sprinkle the food with a calcium supplement, available at a pet store. This diet can be supplemented by commercial foods.

Iguanas are not easy-keepers -- there's a lot more involved than just giving them the right diet -- which is perhaps why these pets finally seem to be waning in popularity. People don't seem to realize that these cute little "dinosaurs" grow up to be almost 6 feet long and can live for more than 20 years. That's if they grow up at all, of course, since many die before maturity because of a lack of proper care.

If you're going to search the Internet for iguana information, get the right stuff. Your first stop should be Melissa Kaplan's Anapsid.org. Even better, pick up a copy of her outstanding "Iguanas for Dummies" (Wiley, $22). It doesn't seem that you were quite prepared to take on this pet, but you can educate yourself now to provide your iguana with everything he needs.

Remember: Your new pet is counting on you! -- Gina Spadafori

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET BUY

Get in the swing with ball launcher

As a frustrated golfer (is there any other kind?) who owns an excitable golden retriever (ditto previous question), I couldn't resist the Doggie Driver. My dog doesn't get enough exercise, and I don't get to play enough golf.

I live on a quiet street. And while this violates every code in the Good Dog Owner Handbook, I take my dog out at least once every night with my tennis ball launcher. In five or 10 minutes, she gets the exercise she needs.

The Doggie Driver seemed like a neat new twist. The test run, however, was less than auspicious.

You place the ball in the face of the plastic driver and swing away. My drives didn't shatter any windows, but I could see immediately that the Doggie Driver lacked the accuracy of a standard tennis ball launcher.

And then there were my kids, who of course had to try it, too. It takes a pretty powerful swing just to get the tennis ball to leave the clubface. When I pulled the ball halfway out of the clubface, my son took a whack and duck-hooked the ball onto a neighbor's roof. My daughter's shot sailed backward.

I'm not ready to write off the Doggie Driver yet, but I suggest keeping it in the bag on visits to dog parks, and definitely don't use it in residential areas. It is a golf club, after all, and streets are narrower than fairways.

The Hyper Products Doggie Driver has a suggested retail of $30. -- Bob Burns

PET TIP

Mix things up for bird diet

Avian veterinarians say parrots do best on a diet of high-quality pellets, combined with daily helpings of healthy food such as fresh vegetables and fruits. But what if you don't want to spend all your time chopping up a healthy mix of produce?

It's easy to provide your pet with the good food he needs year-round by using frozen mixed vegetables, such as those sold for stir-fry dishes. Bags of vegetable mixes are easy to find and easy to store, and it takes only a short spell in the microwave to bring them up to room temperature. (Check after heating them to be sure you don't have pockets that are hot enough to hurt your bird.) Little shopping, no chopping and no rotting veggies in the refrigerator -- what could be better? -- Gina Spadafori

THE SCOOP

Cats can benefit from grooming help

Sure, your cat can groom herself, but there are benefits to you both if you help her out.

Grooming your cat regularly will reduce the amount of hair that ends up on your clothes and throughout the house, both as shed hair and hair balls. It'll also help allergy sufferers to better tolerate sharing their lives with cats, especially if you add a weekly bath to your cat's regular routine.

Your cat will benefit too. Keeping your cat well-groomed will help you spot health problems before they become serious. Is your cat's coat thinning? Are there wounds, lumps or bumps? You'll find the answers to all these questions when you groom your cat. When done gently and with a positive approach, grooming will also help strengthen the bond between you and your pet.

Although it's easiest to teach a cat to tolerate grooming when you start with a kitten, even an adult cat can learn to appreciate -- or at least tolerate -- the attention. Here are some tips to get you started:

-- Give yourself a fresh start. If you have a cat who's badly matted, arrange to have her shaved down by a groomer so you don't torture the poor thing by trying to comb out the clumps.

-- Go slowly. Introduce new routines a little bit at a time to build your cat's tolerance.

-- Reward your cat. Use treats, praise and gentle petting to let your pet know that you approve of his patience. You can't make a cat do anything he doesn't want to, so praise is the only way to go.

-- Know when to call it a day. End the grooming session before your cat becomes impatient, annoyed or afraid. But if you miss the signs of an irritated cat or feel yourself becoming cross, stop immediately and let your cat go before you get bitten or clawed. -- Gina Spadafori

BY THE NUMBERS

The right angle

Although new materials such as acrylic make all kinds of aquarium shapes possible, most fish-keepers still choose the traditional rectangular shape. Aquarium shapes chosen (multiple answers allowed):

Rectangular 76 percent

Bubble/round 15 percent

Hexagonal 9 percent

Bow-front 4 percent

Coffee table 2 percent

Source: American Pet Products Manufacturers Association

ON GOOD BEHAVIOR

Offer alternatives for your cat to scratch

Cats scratch to stretch their muscles, groom their nails and mark their territory. Shredding the sides of furniture is normal, healthy and natural behavior. To ease the destructiveness, provide scratching alternatives and teach cats the difference between acceptable and unacceptable scratching.

Teach acceptable scratching by placing treats and catnip on scratching posts and cat trees. Play chase games that move the laser light, string, toy mouse or feather up and around the post. Praise your cat whenever a paw touches an approved scratching area. At the same time, make furniture unattractive with a covering of foil, plastic wrap or commercial cat repellent.

Test your cat's preferences by providing an abundance of alternatives: both vertical and horizontal posts, in wood, carpet, cardboard and sisal rope surfaces.

(Animal behavior experts Susan and Dr. Rolan Tripp are the authors of "On Good Behavior." For more information, visit their Web site at AnimalBehavior.net.)

Pet Connection is produced by a team of team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper, by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

pets

Off on the Right Paw

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | February 26th, 2007

By Susan and Dr. Rolan Tripp

Universal Press Syndicate

Puppies constantly try new behaviors to see what pays off for them. In the wild, this early trial-and-error form of learning would be critical for survival. In our homes, constantly trying new things is how a puppy learns to fit in with his new family.

Think about what puppies do from a puppy's point of view and you'll know they're not just trying to be naughty. "If I bang on the food dish, will I get fed?" "If I put my paws on your knees, do I get your attention?" "If I sit under the table when you are eating, do I get handouts?" Puppies are always carefully noting the results of their behavior, and things that work to their benefit will certainly be repeated, for good or bad.

When you let your puppy choose his own way to communicate what he needs and wants, you are more likely to end up with a dog whose rude behaviors annoy you. That's why it's essential to take control of your puppy's peak learning period -- before the age of 16 weeks -- and teach him how to behave on your terms, not his.

We've distilled what you need to know into six easy rules so you can help guide your puppy through the important period of early learning.

-- Supervise your puppy. Punishing a puppy before he knows right from wrong is unfair. The biggest mistake people make in the first 24 hours home is allowing the pup to roam the house freely, punishing him when a mess is found. Instead, supervise your puppy. When you can catch the circle-and-sniff behavior, carry the pup outdoors to the designated potty area. When you can't watch your puppy, limit his roaming to a small bathroom or laundry room with a crate on one end for naps and a doggy potty area on the other with non-destructible chew toys in the middle.

-- Show the puppy what's right. Don't just run around yelling, "No! No! No!" Instead, teach your puppy what's acceptable, and reward him for doing right. Puppies can learn to come, sit, lie down, wait, watch, stay and even do tricks beginning at 8 weeks of age. Reinforce a puppy's good behavior with food, toys and attention, and your pup will become an attentive pupil.

-- Teach your puppy adult dog rules. When large breed dogs are puppies, having them put their paws up is both cute and convenient. But it's unfair and unrealistic to expect a puppy to realize the rules change when he gets larger. If you don't want a 130-pound bull mastiff putting his paws up on people or his big fanny on your couch, the time to teach him is when he's a puppy. It's always easier to teach good behaviors than to correct unwanted ones.

-- Don't hit your puppy, ever. Begin a hand-feeding routine that includes gently massaging him while you feed him. Your puppy needs to learn your hands are powerful but never a threat. Lift your puppy like a toddler, feet dangling, and hug him. Hold your pup tighter if he wiggles, and release him as soon as he relaxes. Teach your puppy a little frustration tolerance, but never allow him to panic or feel pain.

-- Teach your puppy not to bite. During play, teach him gentle mouthing with a cue word such as "gently." Once your puppy knows what "gently" means, you can teach him not to mouth you at all. Provide non-destructible chew toys and praise all appropriate chewing. And don't play tug-of-war games until your pup has learned to sit and give a toy on request.

-- Take field trips. Give your puppy friendly introductions to as many people, other animals, places and things as possible. Give praise for bravery and friendly behaviors you want to encourage. Teach your pup to sit to greet people. Even better: Take your puppy to a puppy socialization class, and consider a reputable day-care program.

Seem like a lot of work? You bet it is! But the effort you put into raising your puppy properly will pay off with good behavior for life.

(Animal behavior experts Susan and Dr. Rolan Tripp are members of the Pet Connection team. For more information, visit their Web site at AnimalBehavior.net.)

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books.

On PetConnection.com there's more information on pets and their care, reviews of products, books and "dogmobiles," and a weekly drawing for pet-care prizes. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or visiting PetConnection.com.

Q&A

Hit 'snooze' on pet alarm clock

Q: Our year-old golden retriever wakes up early every day and pesters us until we get out of bed. It seems she's waking us up earlier and earlier, and she doesn't let us sleep in on the weekends. She pesters us for her breakfast -- and then she goes back to sleep! We're ready to throw her outside before we go to bed. Any ideas? -- E.S., via e-mail

A: Your dog is waking you up earlier and earlier because she has figured out that the sooner you're out of bed, the sooner she will get breakfast. Smart girl, huh?

You need to take away her reward for waking you. Do not make feeding your dog the first thing on her morning agenda -- or yours. Instead, pick the paper off the porch, make yourself breakfast, take a shower, etc. Then, when your needs are met, address hers. You need to break the connection in your dog's head between her getting you out of bed and then getting her breakfast.

Don't react to her alarm clock act. Don't get up and don't yell. Just ignore her. You'll have a difficult time doing this at first, but your dog will finally come to understand which behaviors alter your actions, and which don't. The ones that don't work, she'll drop. When waking you up doesn't work for her anymore, she'll learn to rise when you do.

Above all, be patient. Young retrievers are often big, bouncy pests until they mature, which eventually happens between the age of 2 and 4. She's a big puppy now, but you'll start noticing a serious trend toward mellow as she leaves her adolescence.

More exercise will also help your dog. Even though I haven't a clue as to how much exercise your dog gets currently, there's no such thing as enough activity for a large, year-old dog of an active breed like the golden retriever.

Before turning in at night, make sure your dog gets as much exercise as possible, such as a heart-thumping game of fetch. That'll help your pet sleep well and maybe sleep later, too. -- Gina Spadafori

Breaking the habit

Q: I have a Jack Russell terrier who's an outside dog. I have a problem with him eating cigarette butts. I have taken him to the veterinarian countless times for it. Do you know anything I can do to get him to stop? -- T.L., via e-mail

A: Your dog is probably eating things he shouldn't because he's lonely, bored and looking for some way to fill his empty days. Few dogs are happy as outdoor dogs, and an intelligent and active dog like the Jack Russell will find something to do when left to his own devices -- and chances are, it won't be something you'll like.

Bring your dog inside and make him part of your family, and increase the amount of exercise you provide for both his mind and his body. Provide him with safe chewing alternatives, especially when you cannot supervise his behavior. Stuffing peanut butter and bits of dog treats into a Kong chew or other "food puzzle" toy will keep your dog busy trying to chew out the goodies.

As for any remaining interest your dog has in cigarette butts, the responsibility for keeping them out of your pet's mouth is yours. Keep any areas your dog frequents clear of anything you don't want him to chew on or swallow. That means teaching yourself to pick up the cigarette butts, for the safety of your dog. -- Gina Spadafori

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

ON GOOD BEHAVIOR

Kittens must learn not to bite hands

Kittens begin to play-fight with littermates at around 6 weeks of age. This behavior provides healthy exercise and teaches important social skills.

You may end up with an aggressive cat if you allow your kitten to bite or scratch you, even in play. It's harder to change the rules as your kitten grows. Instead, redirect this natural behavior by using a variety of toys for interactive play. Let the toy be the target, not you!

Keep play realistic. Move a feather toy around like a bird, a laser light like a bug, or a string like a mouse tail. This action allows your kitten to exercise natural behaviors in acceptable ways. Keep play interesting by varying the game and toy every five minutes, and allow your kitten to win by pouncing on the object. Toss a treat in here or there to spice things up. -- Susan and Dr. Rolan Tripp

ON THE WEB

In praise of pet chickens

Chickens can be wonderful pets, if you live where you're allowed to keep them. After all, not many pets can provide you not only with affection and entertainment but also eggs! While your neighbors might not appreciate the sunrise serenades of roosters, hens can fit comfortably into most suburban and rural environments.

The Backyard Chickens Web site (www.backyardchickens.com) is a welcoming place for would-be chicken keepers and experts alike, with information on choosing and caring for chickens, images of some incredible coops and message boards for getting help from other chicken fans. -- Dr. Marty Becker

PET Rx

Keep on top of canine ear problems

A dog's ear canals are much longer and more L-shaped than the human ear canal. Similar to the elbow in the drain underneath the kitchen sink, a dog's ear canal is the perfect place for debris and microbes to gather. This area is often wet and warm. And when it's filled with bacteria, fungi, ear mites or yeast, it becomes the perfect environment for an ear infection.

A foul odor coming from the ears is one sign there's a problem. Head-shaking or ear-scratching are others.

Especially prone to ear infections are the flop-eared retriever and spaniel breeds, as well as long-eared dogs such as basset hounds or bloodhounds. These pets have ears that hang over the entrance to the ear canal, preventing the canals from ever drying out. Allergies can also play a role in many chronic ear problems.

Prevention is always the best medicine. Ask your veterinarian to recommend a product that dissolves wax and debris gently but thoroughly, and is easy on the surrounding tissues. To clean the ear flap, pull the ear straight out from the head at an almost 90-degree angle and apply the ear solution. Once the cleaning solution is in the ear, massage the base of the ear with your fingers for about 30 seconds.

A good head-shake from your dog will get rid of the excess solution, and a small food reward will thank him for his tolerance. Then wrap a small piece of gauze or light cloth around your index finger and probe the outer part of the ear canal to wipe clean the wax and debris that the fluid has loosened. Don't use a cotton swab, as it's possible to go too deep and break the eardrum.

If your pet is prone to ear infections, work with your veterinarian to discover why and correct the problem. Ear infections are painful, and chronic ear infections can lead to hearing loss and other problems. You'll want to know how to best protect your dog from the suffering that goes with this common health problem. -- Dr. Marty Becker

BY THE NUMBERS

This chew's for you

Dogs like to chew, and people like them to chew in ways that won't destroy things around the house. That's why chew toys are tops on the list of items purchased by dog lovers within the last year. Items purchased (multiple answers allowed):

Chew toys 52 percent

Stain remover 32 percent

Leash 22 percent

ID tag 20 percent

Bed 18 percent

Source: American Pet Products Manufacturers Association

PET TIP

Better perches for happy birds

The plain wooden dowels that come standard with any birdcage are boring, both to look at and to perch on. Your bird will love it if you substitute natural branches, and it probably won't cost you a dime if you have access to trees to take trimmings from. Branches from most fruit trees (apple, almond, peach and all citrus) and some others (ash, elm, dogwood and manzanita) make wonderful perches.

These natural perches feel good under your pet's feet, and provide both entertainment and exercise when your bird chews them up. Strip leaves from the branches, look carefully for insect egg pods, and then remove any you find so you don't bring any pests indoors. Scrub the branches with soap and water, rinse thoroughly, and allow them to air-dry before putting them in your bird's cage to make sure you're not exposing your pet to any pesticide residue. When the branches get chewed up, just replace them. -- Gina Spadafori

Pet Connection is produced by a team of team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper, by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

pets

Fly Away Home

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | February 19th, 2007

Universal Press Syndicate

With all the pets I've had in my life, you'd think I'd have seen just about everything. And for the most part, that's true. But there's one thing I haven't dealt with because I've been both careful and lucky.

I've never had a pet go missing for good.

I've come close a couple of times. A few years back, I was staying at my brother's house, while buying one home and selling another, when my smallest dog slipped through a gap in the fence. Fortunately, he immediately latched on to some nearby children who took him home and called the number on his ID tag.

More recently, I lost my parrot, but that too ended happily. As with most successful recoveries of lost pets, it was the things I'd done before Eddie got out that brought him back home again. The reason I'm not parrotless today is because Eddie's wings were clipped to keep him from flying away and because we had a relationship of trust that extended beyond my front door.

Here is what you need to know if your pet bird takes wing:

-- Prepare for possible loss. Have your bird microchipped. Keep his wings clipped to prevent him from flying away, and make sure everyone in the family knows to keep doors and unscreened windows closed. In Eddie's case, I'd forgotten he was sitting loose on a playstand rather than in his cage. When I walked out the front door to get groceries out of the car, I didn't see him walk out behind me and didn't realize he was missing until after I'd put away the groceries.

-- Don't waste time. The longer your bird is out, the smaller the chance of recovery. Immediately start searching nearby. If you have some game you play that would elicit a response from your bird, start playing. In Eddie's case, he responded immediately to my whistles because it's a game we play all the time in the house.

-- Lure your bird with favorite treats. Eddie had scrambled 10 feet up into a nearby bay tree. His favorite treats didn't work on him -- probably because he'd just had a big breakfast -- but that might work with another bird or even with Eddie another time. Because birds are more likely to eat at dawn and dusk, even a bird who's not immediately interested in treats may come into a familiar cage at feeding time.

-- Use the hose, cautiously. Because being sprayed from the hose is frightening and may injure the bird, don't go for this technique first. But it can be successful. In fact, a good soaking is finally what brought Eddie down after all else failed and I was looking at him spending the night outside. He was so angry at the soaking that he was anxious to bite me, so I wrapped him in a towel for the safety of us both.

Had I not been able to collect Eddie relatively promptly, I would have put up fliers around the area and at the local bird shop, pet-supply stores, veterinarians' offices (especially avian veterinarians) and pet shelters. And I would have taken out both print and online classified ads, all offering a reward for his return.

-- More important than anything -- keep up the search. Many birds are found days, weeks and months after they're lost, but they're found by people who don't know just who is looking for the pet. If you don't keep putting the word out, your bird may be lost for good, even if found.

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books.

On PetConnection.com there's more information on pets and their care, reviews of products, books and "dogmobiles," and a weekly drawing for free pet-care prizes. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or visiting PetConnection.com.

Q&A

Too many dogs for one walk?

Q: How many dogs are too many for one person to handle in public? I see people walking multiple dogs in my neighborhood, and they don't have good control over any of them. We also have people who turn multiple dogs loose in our off-leash dog park and then don't pay attention to what the dogs are doing. These dogs seem to me to be more likely to get into fights.

Can you suggest a sensible limit on dogs? I think if you have two hands, you should take two dogs, no more. What do you think? -- A.O., via e-mail

A: How many dogs can be handled on-leash and how many turned loose together in an off-leash dog park are two different questions.

Let's take the on-leash one first. A large, strong person with good dog sense and well-mannered pets could handle several dogs on-leash at once, while someone who is outweighed by an ill-mannered animal is hard-pressed to control even one. When walking dogs on-leash, people need to be realistic about their strength and reflexes, their knowledge of canine body language and their dog's level of training. If someone's overmatched, he or she needs a trainer's help with leash manners and needs to walk no more than a single dog at once.

The off-leash dog park, however, is an entirely different matter. Owners with multiple dogs, no matter how well-mannered their pets are, simply cannot stay on top of what all their dogs are doing once the animals fan out. Everyone who takes a pet into an off-leash dog park needs to be responsible for the behavior of that animal, watching to be sure the dog is neither bully nor victim and that no one gets hurt. The dog park is not for catching up on one's reading or visiting with other people. It is for safely exercising and socializing a dog. One dog is hard enough to monitor properly; more than two would be nearly impossible.

Further, dogs who live together are more likely to gang up on those animals who aren't in their "pack." Dog packs have a different dynamic than individual dogs, and having a regular pack frequent the park could be a dangerous situation indeed.

To operate safely, dog parks need good basic rules, an active community to police through peer pressure and plenty of common sense. While all you can do with a person who's walking too many dogs on-leash is stay out of the way, you can work to put common sense rules in place at the off-leash park not to limit the number of dogs, but rather to ban inattentive behavior on the part of the owners. If that fails, it may be necessary to set an arbitrary limit as to how many dogs a single person could have in an off-leash area at one time. -- Gina Spadafori

Q: We saw a dog fall or jump out of a pickup truck on the highway. We couldn't stop, but I cannot imagine that the animal survived. Could you please tell people to put their dogs inside the truck's cab if they love them? -- T.M., via e-mail

A: Allowing a dog to ride without restraints in the back of a truck is never safe, which is why it's illegal in some states. Dogs who must ride in the back of a truck are best transported in airline shipping crates, properly secured to the truck bed.

A crate will keep the animal from jumping or being thrown from the truck and will provide some protection from the elements. While I'd personally rather see a dog secured inside a vehicle, a strapped-down crate in a truck bed isn't a bad alternative. -- Gina Spadafori

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET BUY

Making portable watering easy

We go everywhere with Quixote, our 3-year-old, 13-pound papillon/poodle/Yorkie cross. And while we typically have him dressed up in some sort of outfit (his inner wolf is embarrassed), our primary concern is his comfort and safety.

We struggle with finding ways to give him fresh water while on the move without hassle or mess. Faced with the problem of keeping Quixote hydrated, I was delighted to find a new way to give him fresh water on the go with the Hydro-Go Portable Pet Canteen from Veterinary Ventures, the makers of the popular Drinkwell pet fountains.

The Hydro-Go canteen and bowl combination allows for the simple, no-mess delivery of fresh water as needed. The product holds a quart of water, and the opening is large enough to add ice cubes to keep everything cool. It's also designed so the bowl and canteen work together to form a funnel, allowing any leftover water to be poured back into the canteen.

A wide, adjustable strap makes it easy to take the Hydro-Go along, and the design and materials make it a cinch to clean. Suggested retail price is $20 from pet-supply stores, catalog or online merchants. More information will soon be available at www.petfountain.com. -- Dr. Marty Becker

ON THE WEB

Promoting rabbits of sugar, not fur

The approach of spring means Easter is soon at hand. This holiday has long been marked as a time when baby rabbits show up in pet stores, advertised as the perfect holiday gift for children. (Baby chicks and ducklings, many dyed in Easter egg colors, are a fad that has thankfully been fading in recent years.)

The problem is that rabbits are long-lived (up to a decade or more), difficult for small children to handle and have more care requirements than most parents realize. They are not the easiest pets to keep healthy and happy, and that means many Easter bunnies will soon end up at the shelters, where prospects for adoption are grim.

The Columbus, Ohio, chapter of the House Rabbit Society has a playful campaign that's working to change people's perceptions of what too often are throw-away pets. The Make Mine Chocolate! Web site (http://makeminechocolate.org) offers pins, postcards, fliers and more to spread the word. You'll find even more information on proper rabbit care on the site of the national House Rabbit Society (www.rabbit.org). -- Gina Spadafori

DOGMOBILES

Cargo space lack hurts promising Edge

The Ford Edge was one vehicle I was really looking forward to driving. It's sharp-looking, decently priced (starting at $26,000) and offers moderately good fuel economy (17/24 mpg for the AWD model, and a tick better for rear-wheel drive). Such so-called "crossover utility vehicles" have great promise as dogmobiles, since they are more nimble than SUVs but still designed to be versatile with cargo.

The Ford Edge had all the comfort and sharp handling of the best of the crossovers, but there's not enough "utility" in the vehicle to give it a nod as a top dogmobile.

I continue to be frustrated with the way interior cargo space usability is sacrificed for exterior design. The round edges of the Edge and the downward slope of the vehicle's rear rendered much of the interior cargo space unusable. Rounded and sloped edges are attractive, but everything you want to put in a vehicle -- dog crates, boxes, suitcases -- is square.

And then there's the Edge's hard-to-lift rear tailgate.

I'm not exactly a 90-pound weakling, but I'm not a bodybuilder, either. To put it in perspective, I can lift a 30-pound bag of cat litter or put a retriever on a raised table for grooming.

But I could not lift the tailgate of the Ford Edge with one hand. The latch is in the middle of the rear door, which is wider at the bottom than at the top. Much of the weight is below the ill-positioned handle, which you touch from underneath to unlatch and then pull up and out to lift the tailgate. I had to put down what I was holding and use both arms, and it still wasn't easy.

In the end, the Edge gets top grades for comfort, performance and styling, but I can't give it much for dog-friendly utility. If you want a vehicle for your two-legged family and for occasionally taking gear or a pet to the vet, you'll be happy with an Edge. But as a dogmobile, it's a disappointment. -- Gina Spadafori

BY THE NUMBERS

Does taking surveys make my cat look fat?

According to a 2004 survey of pet owners, cat lovers agree that neuter is neater. But when it comes to figuring out a cat's proper weight, their reports don't jibe with the higher obesity rates that veterinarians claim. The percentage of cats their owners say are (multiple answers allowed):

Spayed or neutered 86 percent

Overweight 14 percent

Put on diet 10 percent

Taken to groomer 4 percent

Source: American Pet Products Manufacturers Association

ON GOOD BEHAVIOR

Know the signs of fearful dog

Dogs can become afraid just as we do, but they express fear in different ways. A fearful dog may cower, hide, drool or tremble. Wide pupils are another sign of a dog in fear.

The cause of such behavior may be genetic, it may be because of improper socialization as a puppy, or it may be in response to a frightening episode in an animal's life.

We do know that the canine brain is so similar to the human brain that the same medications are used for treating fear and helping with behavior modification. Since fearful dogs are not happy and may in fact bite, it's important to get a referral to a veterinarian skilled in working with behavior problems. The combination of proper medication and behavior modification can make a scared dog's life a happy one.

(Animal behavior experts Susan and Dr. Rolan Tripp are the authors of "On Good Behavior." For more information, visit their Web site at AnimalBehavior.net.)

Pet Connection is produced by a team of team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper, by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

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