Take Your Medicine

by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker

Pet Connection | February 12th, 2007

Universal Press Syndicate

Too often, pet owners leave veterinary hospitals with prescriptions they don't fully understand for pets who don't want to take their medicine.

As a practicing veterinarian, I can tell you that pets need to get their medicine exactly as prescribed for the best possible outcome. But a recent study confirms what we veterinarians already suspected: Only 10 percent of cat owners and 30 percent of dog owners succeed in medicating their pets correctly.

This means that a lot of prescriptions end up in the cupboard or on the person rather than in the reluctant pet. That's why it's important to ask some basic questions and make sure you understand all the answers before leaving your veterinarian's office with medication in hand.

I've narrowed them down to six questions that must be answered before you head home:

-- Why has this been prescribed? "Pet owners must understand exactly what condition a pet has and what the prescribed medications are for," says Dr. John Tait of the veterinary school at the University of Guelph in Ontario, Canada.

For example, is the medication an antibiotic, a wormer, an anti-inflammatory drug, a pain medication or something to soothe the intestinal tract? Are we fighting a fever by giving an antibiotic, trying to prevent a secondary infection, or stopping diarrhea or vomiting?

-- How long should I give my pet this medicine? "There is a tendency to discontinue medication when our pets appear 'cured,'" says Dr. Kelly Diehl, an internal medicine specialist at the Veterinary Referral Center of Colorado in Englewood, Colo. "Owners need to follow their pet's medication schedule for the entire time prescribed."

Diehl uses the development of bacterial resistance to antibiotics as an example. A pet may seem better, but the bacteria can prepare a second wave of attack if the medication isn't given for the duration prescribed.

-- How should I give this, and how often? Is the medication oral or topical? Will it be given in response to symptoms or on a regular schedule?

"Because of busy schedules, it is easy to overlook a pet's medication," says Diehl. The easiest way to keep on schedule is to write down the doses in your home calendar and check them off when given to your pet. This way, you give all the doses for the proper amount of time. And if you miss a dose, don't double up to catch up. Instead, give the next dose at the prescribed time.

Make sure, too, that you know how to get the medicine where it's going, such as by "pilling" an uncooperative pet. Ask for a demonstration or, if you can't handle the task at hand, ask for alternatives.

-- What about food and water? In a recent study, cats given medications without water were found to have the pills stranded far from the destination in the stomach. That's why medications should be chased with water, which for cats means giving them a syringeful after every pill. And don't forget to keep checking that ample water is available to your pet, since some medications increase thirst.

Also, ask if the medication needs to be given with food or on an empty stomach. Different medications are digested and metabolized in different ways. Some medications are given on a full or partially full stomach in order to prevent irritation to the stomach lining.

-- What side effects should I watch for? "We try to be sure side effects are covered verbally at the time of the prescription and then followed with written information," says Dr. Thomas Carpenter of Newport Harbor Animal Hospital in Costa Mesa, Calif.

Some side effects are not harmful, while others -- typically vomiting, diarrhea, loss of appetite, weakness, paralysis -- can be quite serious. Ask what to expect, what is routine and what's not, and call your veterinarian if you have the slightest doubt or concern.

-- Is this safe with other medications? Make sure your veterinarian is aware of all other medications or supplements your pet is on, and don't add any others without checking first.

"A great example of this danger is the use of a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug (NSAID). Many people think of aspirin as a very safe medication, but when combined with an NSAID it is very dangerous," says Carpenter.

The most important lesson all experts stress is to make sure the pet receives the medications. If you can't give the medications as prescribed, don't feel embarrassed or guilty, and do not put the meds away in the cupboard to tick away toward expiration. Call your veterinarian for help.

"We'll figure out a way to give the meds," says Dr. Karen Johnson with Banfield the Pet Hospital in Portland, Ore.

ABOUT PET CONNECTION

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books.

On PetConnection.com there's more information on pets and their care, reviews of products, books and "dogmobiles," and a weekly drawing for pet-care prizes. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

Q&A

Good shelters resist labeling

Q: I've been thinking about getting a dog. But I don't know how to be sure that the shelters in the area are good ones. We have shelters that put pets down when they become crowded and those that are "no-kill." And once I find a shelter, how do I go about finding the right dog for me without going on impulse alone? -- P.B., via e-mail

A: You'll find good shelters among both the traditional and "no-kill" variety, and less-than-ideal ones in both categories as well.

Some no-kill shelters get that way by refusing to accept animals that are not adoptable or by refusing all animals when they are full. The turn-aways often end up at another shelter, one whose staff often very much resents having to be the bad guy. As for traditional shelters, some seem to believe it's easier to euthanize surplus pets than to make much of an effort to see them adopted.

Fortunately, pioneering shelters in both categories have done a lot of work to raise the bar for all shelters, and both the pets and those who adopt them have benefited greatly from the changes.

Good shelters of all philosophical persuasions have a few things in common. You should look for these traits when choosing a place to find a pet because it's good to support a progressive organization, and because it's in your best interest to do so.

First, a shelter should be clean. Because money is always tight, it's not uncommon for even a good shelter to look a little worn around the edges. Many would love to have new buildings, new cages, new runs and so on, but few can afford them. Still, cleanliness should always be a priority. If a shelter can't manage the most basic cleaning regimen, you should wonder about what else it isn't doing right.

Another key sign: an upbeat professional staff and a supportive group of volunteers. Both are essential when it comes to offering healthy, well-socialized animals for adoption, as well as counseling to help you pick out the right pet from so many needing homes.

Make a list beforehand of the attributes you want -- such as coat length, size, activity level -- and stick to it. You won't be doing the "wrong" dog a favor if you let your heart rule the day and then decide later that you made a poor match. Take your time, and take a friend who'll help you to suppress the impulse to take home the first sad face you see. And let the shelter help you. Those adoption counselors want to help you make a match for life. -- Gina Spadafori

Hello, Kitty!

by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker

Pet Connection | February 5th, 2007

Universal Press Syndicate

Here's a riddle for you: How is it that cats are the most popular pets and yet more households have dogs? The answer: Many households with dogs have only one, while cat lovers prefer their pets in multiples.

Problem is, while dogs truly do love the company of their own species as well as ours, many cats would prefer to be "only children." That means adding a second cat can be a difficult operation, with many pitfalls along the way. But most cats will eventually adapt to the change, and for some, the addition of a companion is a wonderful idea.

Successful introductions require laying the groundwork before you bring a second cat home. Your current cat and your new one should be spayed or neutered to reduce hormone-related behavior challenges. Your new pet will also need a visit to the veterinarian before coming home, to be sure he's not bringing home parasites and contagious diseases that can put your established pet at risk.

Prepare a room for your new cat, with food and water bowls, toys, and a litter box and scratching post that needn't be shared. This separate room will be your new pet's home turf while the two cats get used to each other's existence.

Then, start the introductions by pushing no introduction at all.

Bring the new cat home in a carrier and set the pet in the room you've prepared. Let your resident cat discover the caged pet on his own, and don't be discouraged by initial hisses. Let your resident cat explore awhile and then put him on the other side of the door and close it. When the new cat is alone with you in the room, open the carrier door. Leave the new cat alone in the room with the door closed, and let him choose to explore in his own way and time.

Maintain each cat separately for a week or so -- with lots of love and play for both -- and then on a day when you're around to observe, leave the door to the new cat's room open. Don't force them together. Territory negotiations between cats can be drawn-out and delicate, and you must let them work it out on their own, ignoring the hisses and glares.

As the days go by, you can encourage them both to play with you, using a cat "fishing pole" or a toy on a string. If they're willing, feed them in ever-closer proximity, taking your cue from the cats as to how quickly to proceed.

Some cats will always maintain their own territories within the house -- I've known pairs who happily maintained a one upstairs/one downstairs arrangement for life -- while others will happily share everything from litter boxes to food dishes. Let the cats figure it out, and don't force them to share if they don't want to. Some cats will always need separate litter boxes, scratching posts, bowls and toys -- and providing them is a small investment if it keeps the peace.

SIDEBAR

Siblings without rivalry

Many people adopt a pair of littermates, and the two kittens grow up with a tight bond that's a pleasure to observe. But when two bonded adult cats end up at homeless shelters, their chances for being adopted together -- or at all -- are very small indeed.

And that's a real shame, because for anyone who wants a pair of cats, adopting two adults who already know and like each other is the best way to go. No stressful introductions, no kitten training. Instant family! Plus, you'll definitely be giving two deserving pets a second chance at a happy life together.

When you visit a shelter or contact a rescue group, tell them you're interested in adopting a bonded pair of adult cats, if at all possible. It just feels good to take such loving pets home, knowing you've helped to keep a family together.

Q&A

Table scraps land dog in hospital

Q: Our 6-year-old cockapoo survived a bout of pancreatitis over the holidays. We wish we knew beforehand that giving her all the trimmings from the Christmas family gathering could have killed her. We never had any problem before. I guess that old "no table scraps" warning really is a good one. Could you spread the word? -- P.W., via e-mail

A: I know I'm dating myself, but I remember when leftovers from restaurant meals were packed into foil bags with a picture of a dog on them, not Styrofoam containers. Doggie bags they really were, since many of the goodies went straight home to the pets.

In my childhood as an Idaho farm boy, it was expected that the pets would get a juicy steak bone from Sunday dinner, the more fat the better. We also gave them such "delicacies" as chicken or turkey skin, splintery poultry bones and, the mother of all goodies, a greasy, salty ham bone.

Veterinarians these days are very aware that the contents of a doggie bag often represented a genuine danger to pets rather than a tasty treat. Far from being a special gift to our beloved pets, fat-laden leftovers and sharp bones pose a threat to their health, causing illnesses such as pancreatitis, accidents such as a perforated intestine, and even death.

The containers may have changed, but the attitude hasn't. While lean meats and raw vegetables (such as baby carrots) are healthy treats for any dog, the old doggie bag staples (such as bones and the fat trimmed off a steak) need to be strictly off-limits to pets.

If you do give meat or poultry to your dog or cat as an occasional treat, trim it carefully to remove the fat as well as the skin, which is a hiding place for more fat. Even if you're lucky enough that your pet doesn't end up with acute pancreatitis (a life-threatening inflammation of the pancreas), a perforated intestine, severe gastroenteritis (aka a big bellyache) or relatively mild cases of vomiting or diarrhea, the fat certainly adds calories most dogs today don't need. Many breeds are especially prone to obesity, including the Labrador retriever, Cairn terrier, cocker spaniel, dachshund, Shetland sheepdog, basset hound, pug or beagle, and mixes of these breeds (hello, puggles!).

So dump the scraps and watch the weight. Ask your veterinarian for guidance when it comes to what your pet should and should not be eating. -- Dr. Marty Becker

A warning for RVers

Q: Would you please pass along the potential danger to pets in RVs with slide-outs? We read about a woman who crushed one of her cats, and that got us to worrying. Sure enough, in checking out our new unit on my hands and knees, I found five places in the slide-out where a small cat or dog could get wedged in and hurt.

All RVers need to be aware of this and need to keep their pets in crates until the slide-out is fully set up. -- L.S., via e-mail

A: A few years ago I spent a winter in a beach house on the Florida panhandle, and I met many RVers and their pets. These were "snowbird" pets -- cats and small dogs, mostly, and even a couple of birds who seemed to enjoy traveling as much as their people did.

Of course, responsibility for a pet's safety always falls to the owner. Not being an RVer myself -- at least not yet -- I wouldn't have thought to warn about this potential hazard. I appreciate your doing so, and I'm sure you've saved a life or two. -- Gina Spadafori

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET Rx

Special care for senior cats

Cats should be considered "senior" at 8 years old whether they're showing signs of aging or not. At this stage, it's important to step up the preventive veterinary care to be sure to catch any little problem before it becomes a major health crisis. This is especially important for cats who, unlike dogs, tend to hide signs of illness until they're very sick indeed.

Twice-yearly veterinary exams are recommended for older cats, and those health evaluations need to include diagnostic tests: typically a blood test and urinalysis, as well as a testing of thyroid function and a test for the presence of heartworms. While these tests do add to the cost of caring for a cat, they are the only way to catch and treat early such serious health problems as diabetes, hyperthyroidism and kidney failure. These tests also help formulate necessary changes in your cat's diet as he ages.

Depending on the findings, your veterinarian may recommend additional tests to correctly diagnose and treat additional disease.

Another essential part of caring for an aging cat is to be sure your pet's mouth isn't being ignored. Your cat's veterinary examination should include a dental exam, followed by dental cleaning or other procedures under anesthesia as required. At-home dental care that complements what your veterinarian provides -- ask your veterinarian for advice -- will help keep your cat's mouth free of disease and pain.

Early detection means early intervention. Don't neglect your senior cat's health needs when he needs you most. -- Dr. Marty Becker

PETS ON THE WEB

Pick the cutest picture of all

Tough day at the office? Take a break by visiting the Kitten War (kittenwar.com) or Puppy War (puppywar.com) Web sites. A furry twist on sites that let you rate a person's looks, Kitten War and Puppy War let you enjoy looking at and voting on adorable pets without a chance of hurting any feelings, at least of the four-legged participants. (The owners might get a tad put out if a beloved pet gets voted down enough.)

The Web sites put up one picture against another, you pick a favorite, the votes are shown, and you get to see two more pictures. It continues until your mouse hand wears out -- or your boss tells you to get back to work. You can also add your own pet pictures to the mix for others to vote on. -- Gina Spadafori

THE SCOOP

Neutering the ultimate in saving money, lives

What if there were a simple, safe, surefire solution to preventing the death of millions of pets every year? And, at the same time, what if this solution contributed to your own pet's chances of leading a longer, healthier and happier life?

And if that weren't already enough: How about a magic bullet that will make your pet more loving, affectionate and better-behaved?

This year, millions of pet owners will achieve all of this and more by having their beloved female pets spayed or male pets neutered. I know you think you've heard it all before, but neutering is genuinely important to your pet and to all pets.

Neutered pets can't reproduce and also have far fewer behavioral and medical problems than pets left intact. From a behavioral standpoint, early neutering will prevent the aggressiveness, territory-marking, fighting and roaming of both dogs and cats. Most dogs hit by cars or injured in fights are unneutered males who will travel the world and jump the highest fence to get to a female dog in heat. Female dogs still equipped with reproductive plumbing face a common infection of the uterus called pyometra, which is a surgical emergency and a life-threatening condition.

A cat being out on the prowl can result in every kind of trauma known -- they don't call it a cat fight for nothing! And cat fighting almost guarantees their exposure to contagious and mostly fatal diseases.

Neutered pets have a greatly reduced incidence of cancer, along with a reduced incidence of urinary tract disease. Early spay/neuter helps prevent prostate disease in male dogs and decreases the chances of your female pet getting mammary cancer down to almost zero.

If you love pets as much we veterinarians do, neuter your pets, and encourage your friends and family members to do the same. -- Dr. Marty Becker

BY THE NUMBERS

Vet vs. 'Net

According to a 2004 survey of pet lovers, more people are turning to the Internet for information on pet care -- and fewer to their veterinarians. Information sources:

1998 2000 2002 2004

Veterinarian 72 percent 70 percent 68 percent 61 percent

Internet 5 percent 15 percent 14 percent 19 percent

Source: American Pet Products Manufacturers Association

ON GOOD BEHAVIOR

Teach your puppy to fetch

Retrieving games are great fun and great exercise. Although not all dogs will take to retrieving, it's possible to teach many this useful behavior.

Start with a hungry dog, a few of his favorite possessions and a bag of treats. Bounce, squeak and act playful to initiate the game. Throw a prized possession a few feet away. If your dog turns, follows the throw with his eyes or steps toward the object, praise him enthusiastically.

If your dog picks up the object, praise him more. If he brings it to you, do not take it away in these learning stages. Instead, give a back rub, praise or a treat and then throw something else. Keep sessions short and fun as your dog catches on.

(Animal behavior experts Susan and Dr. Rolan Tripp are the authors of "On Good Behavior." For more information, visit their Web site at AnimalBehavior.net.)

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

pets

Cats in Charge

by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker

Pet Connection | January 29th, 2007

Universal Press Syndicate

Most dog owners come into the veterinary office with their canine companions devotedly following them. Tails wagging, the dogs look up at their people with adoring eyes.

Most cat owners, on the other hand, wrestle a cardboard box into the exam room, reach in like a magician and pull out not a rabbit, but an angry cat. For their efforts they get covered with furry shrapnel and sometimes raked with claws until their face and arms look like so many tic-tac-toe games.

As a lifetime pet lover and a veterinarian of 27 years, I've noticed cat lovers are a special breed. And for those of us who love the cat's fierce independence, tempered by the ability to adopt us as family -- and I am one of these, owned by five cats -- here are some behavior tips for cats:

-- Strategically place your hairball. If you have to hack up a hairball, toss it like a trophy onto something visible and valuable like the new leather couch. If you can't reach that in time, an Oriental rug is an appropriate substitute.

-- Know the enemy and embrace him. If mom is entertaining, determine quickly who hates or is allergic to cats, race immediately to that person and leap into his or her lap. Mom's watching, so he won't dare push you off and will even fake affection by stroking you and repeating, "Nice kitty. Niiiice kitty."

-- Wear fur proudly. You must always select clothing in sharp contrast to your own fur color on which to rub, leap or audition for the president of the Hair Club for Cats. Again, dare to share.

-- Johnnie on-the-spot. As a courtesy, always accompany guests to the toilet. Your job is to sit and stare like you're a peeping-tom cat. If you get some really good shots, post them on the Internet and make a lot of bucks.

-- Cat scratch fever. If someone claims to love cats and that all cats love him or her in return, lull that person into thinking you're a Stepford Cat. When his or her guard is dropped and the perfect cat lover begins to bask in a snapshot moment, show utter disdain, lay claw tracks across the expensive hosiery or silk tie, or turn unexpectedly and give a quick nip deep enough to test someone's blood type.

-- Behind door No. 3. Never allow closed doors in any room except when you need to trap the dog. To crack open a closed one, stand on your hind legs and jackhammer it with your forepaws, scratch it like you're headed for China, or put your paws underneath it and keep pulling. Or just throw yourself against it repeatedly. Once the genie appears and opens the door for you, change your mind and walk away.

-- Paper weight. If you come across somebody doing homework, paying bills or reading the newspaper, settle down on the page being worked on. This may entitle you to flying lessons, but when you get back on the page, and you will, make sure that you take everything with you -- pens, pencils, other papers -- on your next scheduled flight.

-- Knit wits. If mom's into crocheting or knitting, curl up quietly in her lap and pretend to catnap. Then spring into action by grabbing the yarn and causing her knitting needles or crochet hook to plunge sharply like a trophy catfish has just hit the bait. She'll try to distract you and pick up the slipped stitch. Ignore her efforts to calm you, close your eyes again, and prepare for strike two.

-- Early to bed, early to rise. Get plenty of sleep both during the day and in the evening, when your people want you to play. That way, you'll be fully rested and ready to rumble with Sleeping Beauty anytime between 2 a.m. and 5 a.m.

And always remember the No. 1 rule for being a cat: When in doubt, blame the dog.

If you have more tips for feline etiquette, share them! E-mail to petconnection@gmail.com.

SIDEBAR

On PetConnection.com

Pet Connection is produced by a team of team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori.

PetConnection.com features a weekly drawing for free prizes. You'll also find more on pet health and behavior, a searchable archive of all past columns, and reviews of "dogmobiles," products and pet-care books, along with a popular Web log offering frequent contributions from the entire Pet Connection staff.

Q&A

Cataracts may not be the problem

Q: My 10-year-old cocker spaniel has been bumping into walls and generally not seeing as well when it gets dark. I took her to the veterinarian and was told my dog has the beginning stages of cataracts. Surgery was recommended, but it costs a great deal of money. Are there other options? -- C.W., via e-mail

A: It is not clear, no pun intended, that your dog even has cataracts. Dr. Samuel Vainisi, a board-certified veterinary ophthalmologist and owner of Animal Eye Clinic in Denmark, Wis., suspects your cocker spaniel more likely has a retinal problem than cataracts, because not seeing well in the dark is more likely due to Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA).

PRA is a common condition in cockers, and one of the first problems owners will notice is problems with night vision. Vainisi notes that your dog could also have the beginning stages of cataracts. To determine if your cocker spaniel's vision problem is from PRA, cataracts or both, you should request a referral from your veterinarian to a veterinary ophthalmologist.

The lens of the eye is living ocular tissue that, when healthy, is transparent. The lens helps focus light on the retina. A cataract is any alteration in the lens that causes a loss of transparency and the scattering of light. The loss of transparency can range from hardly noticeable to completely opaque. A few common causes include genetics (such eye problems are very common in 2- to 5-year-old cocker spaniels), diabetes, age, accident and inflammation of the eye.

Cataracts are seen equally among males and females but are seen more frequently in the following breeds: cocker spaniels, bichon frises, poodles, Boston terriers, miniature schnauzers, Cavalier King Charles spaniels, wirehaired fox terriers, Labrador and golden retrievers, and Siberian huskies. Because cataracts most commonly develop between 2 and 5 years of age in dogs, it's not a disease of old age, as it is in people.

Several products claim to dissolve cataracts, but none have been successful in providing significant vision improvement, says Dr. Dan Lorimer, a board-certified veterinary ophthalmologist and partner at Michigan Veterinary Specialists. As with people, treatment for animals usually involves surgical removal of the cataract. While costs vary by region -- procedures are typically more expensive on both coasts -- uncomplicated cataract surgery (both eyes) generally runs between $2,000 and $3,000.

Both Vainisi and Lorimer point out that while surgery is the best option, dogs with cataracts can function quite well in their home environment. They must be kept safe with leashes and outside fences, and must be kept away from stairways, decks and other hazards. Their sense of smell, hearing and memory normally allow them to do well at home. Resources include the Owners of Blind Dogs Web site (www.blinddogs.com) and "Living With Blind Dogs: A Resource Book and Training Guide for the Owners of Blind and Low-Vision Dogs" by Caroline D. Levin (Lantern, $30). -- Dr. Marty Becker

Use the cell phone

Q: We live in a resort area and often find wandering dogs. Recently, we were able to reunite one such dog and his owner because the owner had put his cell phone number on the tag rather than his home phone number.

Those who have cell phones should put that number on their dog's ID tag or collar and list it with the company that has microchipped the dog as well. -- M.W., via e-mail

A: Before the time when everyone had a cell phone, I used to recommend that people use temporary ID tags when traveling. Now, it's easy: Make sure your pet's permanent ID tag has a cell phone number on it. And make sure that cell phone number is also in the microchip database, veterinary records and license registration. Thanks for giving me the chance to remind people. -- Gina Spadafori

PET BUY

Something fishy in the bathroom

We see a lot of new pet products, most of which are variations of older ones -- endless new versions of bowls, beds, collars and more. But in all our years of writing about pets and their gear, we have to say we've never seen anything like the Fish 'n Flush.

The clear, two-piece tank replaces a standard toilet tank and contains a complete aquarium setup inside that's capable of handling a fresh or saltwater system. It also holds 2.5 gallons of water apart from the aquarium, so flushing can proceed as normal. The display is removed from the tank for cleaning, and the toilet will work even when the display area is not in place.

The manufacturer notes the tank can also be left dry for other sorts of displays.

The Fish 'n Flush comes with gravel, two plastic 9-inch plants, a dual filter system, LED lighting, a built-in feeder, fill valve, overflow tube, flapper, suction pump and two screws. The product retails for $299 and is available at www.fishnflush.com. -- Gina Spadafori

PET Rx

Settling fights between cats

A trip to the veterinarian can send a cat into a full-blown snit that can last for hours after the return home. The smells of a veterinary setting can even set off other feline family members, who may become aggressive toward the returnee.

Let your cat pick the speed at which he settles back into the household after a trip to the veterinarian. When you get home, put the carrier down in a quiet place, open the carrier door and leave him alone. Your cat may stay in the carrier for a while, may head for the nearest bed to hide under, or may step out and be just fine.

To help "de-vet" the scent of the returnee so other family cats will settle down, try running a towel over the cat who stayed behind and then swiping it over the returning cat. -- Gina Spadafori

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

THE SCOOP

Know dog-park rules before you unleash

Dog parks are run by peer pressure, and it's generally a good system. But what about the problems that are more about common sense and common civility? These things pop up now and then, thanks to people who may lack both.

The biggest lapse in common sense: leaving a choke collar on your dog after you take off the leash. The moving ring can be easily caught on something -- on the tooth of another dog in play, for example -- and once that happens, the natural tendency of an animal to pull away from danger puts into play the natural tendency of the collar to choke when tightened. This situation is dangerous, both for the dog and for anyone who tries to free him, who may be bitten by the panicking pet.

Problems with civility come from people who allow their dogs to annoy other pets or people. Sometimes a dog will just get it in his head that he's going to pick out one person or pet to pester. If your dog is ruining the enjoyment of the park for another user, get out your leash and call it a day, or at least engage your pet in a game of fetch on the other side of the park.

Then there are the people who seem to have neither common sense nor common civility: the ones bringing dogs that get into fights. Dogs who are flat-out aggressive have no business being uncontrolled anywhere, including a dog park. The solution for these dogs is easy: Keep them muzzled in the dog park or keep them away.

But because some people seem to ignore the danger their dogs present, the final call on dog park safety is up to you. If the situation doesn't feel safe, get your dog and go home. -- Gina Spadafori

BY THE NUMBERS

Yorkies move to No. 2

The continued popularity of "portable pooches" is showing up on the American Kennel Club's ranking of canine popularity. In 2006, the Yorkshire terrier took the No. 2 spot, while the previous No. 2, the golden retriever, fell to fourth. In 1970, toy breeds were 12 percent of all AKC registered dogs, vs. 23 percent in 2006.

1. Labrador retriever

2. Yorkshire terrier

3. German shepherd

4. Golden retriever

5. Beagle

6. Dachshund

7. Boxer

8. Poodle

9. Shih tzu

10. Miniature schnauzer

Source: AKC

ON GOOD BEHAVIOR

Variety prevents finicky felines

The feline nose guides blind, deaf newborn kittens to their first meal. They return to the same nipple each time by scent memory. At 4 to 5 weeks, kittens can begin solid food.

Cats recognize four basic tastes: sour, bitter, salty and sweet, with the latter the weakest of the four. Food temperature is important to cats. They are hunters, not scavengers, so a warm meal is more natural for a cat than a cold one. Warming a meal to roughly body temperature increases a cat's interest in the food.

Kittens develop taste and shape preferences to food early. Introducing a variety of food shapes and tastes before 6 months of age can help prevent a finicky eater.

(Animal behavior experts Susan and Dr. Rolan Tripp are the authors of "On Good Behavior." For more information, visit their Web site at AnimalBehavior.net.)

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

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