pets

Hello, Kitty!

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | February 5th, 2007

Universal Press Syndicate

Here's a riddle for you: How is it that cats are the most popular pets and yet more households have dogs? The answer: Many households with dogs have only one, while cat lovers prefer their pets in multiples.

Problem is, while dogs truly do love the company of their own species as well as ours, many cats would prefer to be "only children." That means adding a second cat can be a difficult operation, with many pitfalls along the way. But most cats will eventually adapt to the change, and for some, the addition of a companion is a wonderful idea.

Successful introductions require laying the groundwork before you bring a second cat home. Your current cat and your new one should be spayed or neutered to reduce hormone-related behavior challenges. Your new pet will also need a visit to the veterinarian before coming home, to be sure he's not bringing home parasites and contagious diseases that can put your established pet at risk.

Prepare a room for your new cat, with food and water bowls, toys, and a litter box and scratching post that needn't be shared. This separate room will be your new pet's home turf while the two cats get used to each other's existence.

Then, start the introductions by pushing no introduction at all.

Bring the new cat home in a carrier and set the pet in the room you've prepared. Let your resident cat discover the caged pet on his own, and don't be discouraged by initial hisses. Let your resident cat explore awhile and then put him on the other side of the door and close it. When the new cat is alone with you in the room, open the carrier door. Leave the new cat alone in the room with the door closed, and let him choose to explore in his own way and time.

Maintain each cat separately for a week or so -- with lots of love and play for both -- and then on a day when you're around to observe, leave the door to the new cat's room open. Don't force them together. Territory negotiations between cats can be drawn-out and delicate, and you must let them work it out on their own, ignoring the hisses and glares.

As the days go by, you can encourage them both to play with you, using a cat "fishing pole" or a toy on a string. If they're willing, feed them in ever-closer proximity, taking your cue from the cats as to how quickly to proceed.

Some cats will always maintain their own territories within the house -- I've known pairs who happily maintained a one upstairs/one downstairs arrangement for life -- while others will happily share everything from litter boxes to food dishes. Let the cats figure it out, and don't force them to share if they don't want to. Some cats will always need separate litter boxes, scratching posts, bowls and toys -- and providing them is a small investment if it keeps the peace.

SIDEBAR

Siblings without rivalry

Many people adopt a pair of littermates, and the two kittens grow up with a tight bond that's a pleasure to observe. But when two bonded adult cats end up at homeless shelters, their chances for being adopted together -- or at all -- are very small indeed.

And that's a real shame, because for anyone who wants a pair of cats, adopting two adults who already know and like each other is the best way to go. No stressful introductions, no kitten training. Instant family! Plus, you'll definitely be giving two deserving pets a second chance at a happy life together.

When you visit a shelter or contact a rescue group, tell them you're interested in adopting a bonded pair of adult cats, if at all possible. It just feels good to take such loving pets home, knowing you've helped to keep a family together.

Q&A

Table scraps land dog in hospital

Q: Our 6-year-old cockapoo survived a bout of pancreatitis over the holidays. We wish we knew beforehand that giving her all the trimmings from the Christmas family gathering could have killed her. We never had any problem before. I guess that old "no table scraps" warning really is a good one. Could you spread the word? -- P.W., via e-mail

A: I know I'm dating myself, but I remember when leftovers from restaurant meals were packed into foil bags with a picture of a dog on them, not Styrofoam containers. Doggie bags they really were, since many of the goodies went straight home to the pets.

In my childhood as an Idaho farm boy, it was expected that the pets would get a juicy steak bone from Sunday dinner, the more fat the better. We also gave them such "delicacies" as chicken or turkey skin, splintery poultry bones and, the mother of all goodies, a greasy, salty ham bone.

Veterinarians these days are very aware that the contents of a doggie bag often represented a genuine danger to pets rather than a tasty treat. Far from being a special gift to our beloved pets, fat-laden leftovers and sharp bones pose a threat to their health, causing illnesses such as pancreatitis, accidents such as a perforated intestine, and even death.

The containers may have changed, but the attitude hasn't. While lean meats and raw vegetables (such as baby carrots) are healthy treats for any dog, the old doggie bag staples (such as bones and the fat trimmed off a steak) need to be strictly off-limits to pets.

If you do give meat or poultry to your dog or cat as an occasional treat, trim it carefully to remove the fat as well as the skin, which is a hiding place for more fat. Even if you're lucky enough that your pet doesn't end up with acute pancreatitis (a life-threatening inflammation of the pancreas), a perforated intestine, severe gastroenteritis (aka a big bellyache) or relatively mild cases of vomiting or diarrhea, the fat certainly adds calories most dogs today don't need. Many breeds are especially prone to obesity, including the Labrador retriever, Cairn terrier, cocker spaniel, dachshund, Shetland sheepdog, basset hound, pug or beagle, and mixes of these breeds (hello, puggles!).

So dump the scraps and watch the weight. Ask your veterinarian for guidance when it comes to what your pet should and should not be eating. -- Dr. Marty Becker

A warning for RVers

Q: Would you please pass along the potential danger to pets in RVs with slide-outs? We read about a woman who crushed one of her cats, and that got us to worrying. Sure enough, in checking out our new unit on my hands and knees, I found five places in the slide-out where a small cat or dog could get wedged in and hurt.

All RVers need to be aware of this and need to keep their pets in crates until the slide-out is fully set up. -- L.S., via e-mail

A: A few years ago I spent a winter in a beach house on the Florida panhandle, and I met many RVers and their pets. These were "snowbird" pets -- cats and small dogs, mostly, and even a couple of birds who seemed to enjoy traveling as much as their people did.

Of course, responsibility for a pet's safety always falls to the owner. Not being an RVer myself -- at least not yet -- I wouldn't have thought to warn about this potential hazard. I appreciate your doing so, and I'm sure you've saved a life or two. -- Gina Spadafori

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET Rx

Special care for senior cats

Cats should be considered "senior" at 8 years old whether they're showing signs of aging or not. At this stage, it's important to step up the preventive veterinary care to be sure to catch any little problem before it becomes a major health crisis. This is especially important for cats who, unlike dogs, tend to hide signs of illness until they're very sick indeed.

Twice-yearly veterinary exams are recommended for older cats, and those health evaluations need to include diagnostic tests: typically a blood test and urinalysis, as well as a testing of thyroid function and a test for the presence of heartworms. While these tests do add to the cost of caring for a cat, they are the only way to catch and treat early such serious health problems as diabetes, hyperthyroidism and kidney failure. These tests also help formulate necessary changes in your cat's diet as he ages.

Depending on the findings, your veterinarian may recommend additional tests to correctly diagnose and treat additional disease.

Another essential part of caring for an aging cat is to be sure your pet's mouth isn't being ignored. Your cat's veterinary examination should include a dental exam, followed by dental cleaning or other procedures under anesthesia as required. At-home dental care that complements what your veterinarian provides -- ask your veterinarian for advice -- will help keep your cat's mouth free of disease and pain.

Early detection means early intervention. Don't neglect your senior cat's health needs when he needs you most. -- Dr. Marty Becker

PETS ON THE WEB

Pick the cutest picture of all

Tough day at the office? Take a break by visiting the Kitten War (kittenwar.com) or Puppy War (puppywar.com) Web sites. A furry twist on sites that let you rate a person's looks, Kitten War and Puppy War let you enjoy looking at and voting on adorable pets without a chance of hurting any feelings, at least of the four-legged participants. (The owners might get a tad put out if a beloved pet gets voted down enough.)

The Web sites put up one picture against another, you pick a favorite, the votes are shown, and you get to see two more pictures. It continues until your mouse hand wears out -- or your boss tells you to get back to work. You can also add your own pet pictures to the mix for others to vote on. -- Gina Spadafori

THE SCOOP

Neutering the ultimate in saving money, lives

What if there were a simple, safe, surefire solution to preventing the death of millions of pets every year? And, at the same time, what if this solution contributed to your own pet's chances of leading a longer, healthier and happier life?

And if that weren't already enough: How about a magic bullet that will make your pet more loving, affectionate and better-behaved?

This year, millions of pet owners will achieve all of this and more by having their beloved female pets spayed or male pets neutered. I know you think you've heard it all before, but neutering is genuinely important to your pet and to all pets.

Neutered pets can't reproduce and also have far fewer behavioral and medical problems than pets left intact. From a behavioral standpoint, early neutering will prevent the aggressiveness, territory-marking, fighting and roaming of both dogs and cats. Most dogs hit by cars or injured in fights are unneutered males who will travel the world and jump the highest fence to get to a female dog in heat. Female dogs still equipped with reproductive plumbing face a common infection of the uterus called pyometra, which is a surgical emergency and a life-threatening condition.

A cat being out on the prowl can result in every kind of trauma known -- they don't call it a cat fight for nothing! And cat fighting almost guarantees their exposure to contagious and mostly fatal diseases.

Neutered pets have a greatly reduced incidence of cancer, along with a reduced incidence of urinary tract disease. Early spay/neuter helps prevent prostate disease in male dogs and decreases the chances of your female pet getting mammary cancer down to almost zero.

If you love pets as much we veterinarians do, neuter your pets, and encourage your friends and family members to do the same. -- Dr. Marty Becker

BY THE NUMBERS

Vet vs. 'Net

According to a 2004 survey of pet lovers, more people are turning to the Internet for information on pet care -- and fewer to their veterinarians. Information sources:

1998 2000 2002 2004

Veterinarian 72 percent 70 percent 68 percent 61 percent

Internet 5 percent 15 percent 14 percent 19 percent

Source: American Pet Products Manufacturers Association

ON GOOD BEHAVIOR

Teach your puppy to fetch

Retrieving games are great fun and great exercise. Although not all dogs will take to retrieving, it's possible to teach many this useful behavior.

Start with a hungry dog, a few of his favorite possessions and a bag of treats. Bounce, squeak and act playful to initiate the game. Throw a prized possession a few feet away. If your dog turns, follows the throw with his eyes or steps toward the object, praise him enthusiastically.

If your dog picks up the object, praise him more. If he brings it to you, do not take it away in these learning stages. Instead, give a back rub, praise or a treat and then throw something else. Keep sessions short and fun as your dog catches on.

(Animal behavior experts Susan and Dr. Rolan Tripp are the authors of "On Good Behavior." For more information, visit their Web site at AnimalBehavior.net.)

Pet Connection is produced by a team of team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper, by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

pets

Cats in Charge

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | January 29th, 2007

Universal Press Syndicate

Most dog owners come into the veterinary office with their canine companions devotedly following them. Tails wagging, the dogs look up at their people with adoring eyes.

Most cat owners, on the other hand, wrestle a cardboard box into the exam room, reach in like a magician and pull out not a rabbit, but an angry cat. For their efforts they get covered with furry shrapnel and sometimes raked with claws until their face and arms look like so many tic-tac-toe games.

As a lifetime pet lover and a veterinarian of 27 years, I've noticed cat lovers are a special breed. And for those of us who love the cat's fierce independence, tempered by the ability to adopt us as family -- and I am one of these, owned by five cats -- here are some behavior tips for cats:

-- Strategically place your hairball. If you have to hack up a hairball, toss it like a trophy onto something visible and valuable like the new leather couch. If you can't reach that in time, an Oriental rug is an appropriate substitute.

-- Know the enemy and embrace him. If mom is entertaining, determine quickly who hates or is allergic to cats, race immediately to that person and leap into his or her lap. Mom's watching, so he won't dare push you off and will even fake affection by stroking you and repeating, "Nice kitty. Niiiice kitty."

-- Wear fur proudly. You must always select clothing in sharp contrast to your own fur color on which to rub, leap or audition for the president of the Hair Club for Cats. Again, dare to share.

-- Johnnie on-the-spot. As a courtesy, always accompany guests to the toilet. Your job is to sit and stare like you're a peeping-tom cat. If you get some really good shots, post them on the Internet and make a lot of bucks.

-- Cat scratch fever. If someone claims to love cats and that all cats love him or her in return, lull that person into thinking you're a Stepford Cat. When his or her guard is dropped and the perfect cat lover begins to bask in a snapshot moment, show utter disdain, lay claw tracks across the expensive hosiery or silk tie, or turn unexpectedly and give a quick nip deep enough to test someone's blood type.

-- Behind door No. 3. Never allow closed doors in any room except when you need to trap the dog. To crack open a closed one, stand on your hind legs and jackhammer it with your forepaws, scratch it like you're headed for China, or put your paws underneath it and keep pulling. Or just throw yourself against it repeatedly. Once the genie appears and opens the door for you, change your mind and walk away.

-- Paper weight. If you come across somebody doing homework, paying bills or reading the newspaper, settle down on the page being worked on. This may entitle you to flying lessons, but when you get back on the page, and you will, make sure that you take everything with you -- pens, pencils, other papers -- on your next scheduled flight.

-- Knit wits. If mom's into crocheting or knitting, curl up quietly in her lap and pretend to catnap. Then spring into action by grabbing the yarn and causing her knitting needles or crochet hook to plunge sharply like a trophy catfish has just hit the bait. She'll try to distract you and pick up the slipped stitch. Ignore her efforts to calm you, close your eyes again, and prepare for strike two.

-- Early to bed, early to rise. Get plenty of sleep both during the day and in the evening, when your people want you to play. That way, you'll be fully rested and ready to rumble with Sleeping Beauty anytime between 2 a.m. and 5 a.m.

And always remember the No. 1 rule for being a cat: When in doubt, blame the dog.

If you have more tips for feline etiquette, share them! E-mail to petconnection@gmail.com.

SIDEBAR

On PetConnection.com

Pet Connection is produced by a team of team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori.

PetConnection.com features a weekly drawing for free prizes. You'll also find more on pet health and behavior, a searchable archive of all past columns, and reviews of "dogmobiles," products and pet-care books, along with a popular Web log offering frequent contributions from the entire Pet Connection staff.

Q&A

Cataracts may not be the problem

Q: My 10-year-old cocker spaniel has been bumping into walls and generally not seeing as well when it gets dark. I took her to the veterinarian and was told my dog has the beginning stages of cataracts. Surgery was recommended, but it costs a great deal of money. Are there other options? -- C.W., via e-mail

A: It is not clear, no pun intended, that your dog even has cataracts. Dr. Samuel Vainisi, a board-certified veterinary ophthalmologist and owner of Animal Eye Clinic in Denmark, Wis., suspects your cocker spaniel more likely has a retinal problem than cataracts, because not seeing well in the dark is more likely due to Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA).

PRA is a common condition in cockers, and one of the first problems owners will notice is problems with night vision. Vainisi notes that your dog could also have the beginning stages of cataracts. To determine if your cocker spaniel's vision problem is from PRA, cataracts or both, you should request a referral from your veterinarian to a veterinary ophthalmologist.

The lens of the eye is living ocular tissue that, when healthy, is transparent. The lens helps focus light on the retina. A cataract is any alteration in the lens that causes a loss of transparency and the scattering of light. The loss of transparency can range from hardly noticeable to completely opaque. A few common causes include genetics (such eye problems are very common in 2- to 5-year-old cocker spaniels), diabetes, age, accident and inflammation of the eye.

Cataracts are seen equally among males and females but are seen more frequently in the following breeds: cocker spaniels, bichon frises, poodles, Boston terriers, miniature schnauzers, Cavalier King Charles spaniels, wirehaired fox terriers, Labrador and golden retrievers, and Siberian huskies. Because cataracts most commonly develop between 2 and 5 years of age in dogs, it's not a disease of old age, as it is in people.

Several products claim to dissolve cataracts, but none have been successful in providing significant vision improvement, says Dr. Dan Lorimer, a board-certified veterinary ophthalmologist and partner at Michigan Veterinary Specialists. As with people, treatment for animals usually involves surgical removal of the cataract. While costs vary by region -- procedures are typically more expensive on both coasts -- uncomplicated cataract surgery (both eyes) generally runs between $2,000 and $3,000.

Both Vainisi and Lorimer point out that while surgery is the best option, dogs with cataracts can function quite well in their home environment. They must be kept safe with leashes and outside fences, and must be kept away from stairways, decks and other hazards. Their sense of smell, hearing and memory normally allow them to do well at home. Resources include the Owners of Blind Dogs Web site (www.blinddogs.com) and "Living With Blind Dogs: A Resource Book and Training Guide for the Owners of Blind and Low-Vision Dogs" by Caroline D. Levin (Lantern, $30). -- Dr. Marty Becker

Use the cell phone

Q: We live in a resort area and often find wandering dogs. Recently, we were able to reunite one such dog and his owner because the owner had put his cell phone number on the tag rather than his home phone number.

Those who have cell phones should put that number on their dog's ID tag or collar and list it with the company that has microchipped the dog as well. -- M.W., via e-mail

A: Before the time when everyone had a cell phone, I used to recommend that people use temporary ID tags when traveling. Now, it's easy: Make sure your pet's permanent ID tag has a cell phone number on it. And make sure that cell phone number is also in the microchip database, veterinary records and license registration. Thanks for giving me the chance to remind people. -- Gina Spadafori

PET BUY

Something fishy in the bathroom

We see a lot of new pet products, most of which are variations of older ones -- endless new versions of bowls, beds, collars and more. But in all our years of writing about pets and their gear, we have to say we've never seen anything like the Fish 'n Flush.

The clear, two-piece tank replaces a standard toilet tank and contains a complete aquarium setup inside that's capable of handling a fresh or saltwater system. It also holds 2.5 gallons of water apart from the aquarium, so flushing can proceed as normal. The display is removed from the tank for cleaning, and the toilet will work even when the display area is not in place.

The manufacturer notes the tank can also be left dry for other sorts of displays.

The Fish 'n Flush comes with gravel, two plastic 9-inch plants, a dual filter system, LED lighting, a built-in feeder, fill valve, overflow tube, flapper, suction pump and two screws. The product retails for $299 and is available at www.fishnflush.com. -- Gina Spadafori

PET Rx

Settling fights between cats

A trip to the veterinarian can send a cat into a full-blown snit that can last for hours after the return home. The smells of a veterinary setting can even set off other feline family members, who may become aggressive toward the returnee.

Let your cat pick the speed at which he settles back into the household after a trip to the veterinarian. When you get home, put the carrier down in a quiet place, open the carrier door and leave him alone. Your cat may stay in the carrier for a while, may head for the nearest bed to hide under, or may step out and be just fine.

To help "de-vet" the scent of the returnee so other family cats will settle down, try running a towel over the cat who stayed behind and then swiping it over the returning cat. -- Gina Spadafori

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

THE SCOOP

Know dog-park rules before you unleash

Dog parks are run by peer pressure, and it's generally a good system. But what about the problems that are more about common sense and common civility? These things pop up now and then, thanks to people who may lack both.

The biggest lapse in common sense: leaving a choke collar on your dog after you take off the leash. The moving ring can be easily caught on something -- on the tooth of another dog in play, for example -- and once that happens, the natural tendency of an animal to pull away from danger puts into play the natural tendency of the collar to choke when tightened. This situation is dangerous, both for the dog and for anyone who tries to free him, who may be bitten by the panicking pet.

Problems with civility come from people who allow their dogs to annoy other pets or people. Sometimes a dog will just get it in his head that he's going to pick out one person or pet to pester. If your dog is ruining the enjoyment of the park for another user, get out your leash and call it a day, or at least engage your pet in a game of fetch on the other side of the park.

Then there are the people who seem to have neither common sense nor common civility: the ones bringing dogs that get into fights. Dogs who are flat-out aggressive have no business being uncontrolled anywhere, including a dog park. The solution for these dogs is easy: Keep them muzzled in the dog park or keep them away.

But because some people seem to ignore the danger their dogs present, the final call on dog park safety is up to you. If the situation doesn't feel safe, get your dog and go home. -- Gina Spadafori

BY THE NUMBERS

Yorkies move to No. 2

The continued popularity of "portable pooches" is showing up on the American Kennel Club's ranking of canine popularity. In 2006, the Yorkshire terrier took the No. 2 spot, while the previous No. 2, the golden retriever, fell to fourth. In 1970, toy breeds were 12 percent of all AKC registered dogs, vs. 23 percent in 2006.

1. Labrador retriever

2. Yorkshire terrier

3. German shepherd

4. Golden retriever

5. Beagle

6. Dachshund

7. Boxer

8. Poodle

9. Shih tzu

10. Miniature schnauzer

Source: AKC

ON GOOD BEHAVIOR

Variety prevents finicky felines

The feline nose guides blind, deaf newborn kittens to their first meal. They return to the same nipple each time by scent memory. At 4 to 5 weeks, kittens can begin solid food.

Cats recognize four basic tastes: sour, bitter, salty and sweet, with the latter the weakest of the four. Food temperature is important to cats. They are hunters, not scavengers, so a warm meal is more natural for a cat than a cold one. Warming a meal to roughly body temperature increases a cat's interest in the food.

Kittens develop taste and shape preferences to food early. Introducing a variety of food shapes and tastes before 6 months of age can help prevent a finicky eater.

(Animal behavior experts Susan and Dr. Rolan Tripp are the authors of "On Good Behavior." For more information, visit their Web site at AnimalBehavior.net.)

Pet Connection is produced by a team of team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper, by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

pets

Bad Pet or a Sick One?

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | January 22nd, 2007

Some of the saddest letters I get are from people who are punishing or even contemplating ending the lives of formerly well-mannered pets with new behavior problems. So many of these pet lovers chalk up the changes to "spite" or some other offbeat reason while missing the most obvious reason of all:

The pet is sick.

Some everyday examples:

-- An 8-year-old cat who has always been pretty relaxed suddenly starts zooming around, knocking things off tables and using claws in play.

-- A 9-year-old collie mix who has always been trustworthy and happy suddenly starts snapping when being petted.

-- A 6-year-old cat suddenly starts missing the litter box, even though there has been no change in the location, filler or cleanliness.

People often look for one simple training tip that will bring back the problem-free relationship they had with their animal companions. But sometimes what pet lovers assume is a behavioral problem really isn't -- it's a medical problem, one that will be resolved only with proper diagnosis and treatment.

That zooming cat? There's a pretty good chance she has a condition called hyperthyroidism, in which the thyroid gland overproduces and in so doing prompts behavior changes in a cat whose body is suddenly supercharged.

That snapping dog? A painful ear infection may be the culprit, or perhaps joint pain. The fact that she's snapping, not biting, when petted despite her extreme pain speaks volumes about her good temperament.

And what about the cat whose perfect potty habits are suddenly gone? His case could have any number of medical causes behind it, from an infection or kidney disease to diabetes.

With good medical care, all three of these pets will likely be made healthy again and should be able to be well-mannered pets again. Cases such as these make clear why the first rule of solving any behavior problem is to make sure that it's not a medical problem. This is especially true if the behavior change is sudden.

If you start trying to retrain a pet who's sick, not only will you get nowhere, but you'll also delay the resolution of a condition that may be causing your pet discomfort or pain.

It's important to know what's normal for your pet and to look for small changes in appearance or behavior that could be the early signs of illness, even before they prompt annoying behavior problems. It's important to always keep an eye on your pet's overall condition, for example, being careful to note a loss in weight, a newfound dullness to his coat or a change in energy levels.

Changes in eating and elimination habits are also worthy of investigation, as are subtle shifts in temperament -- like a pet who seems a little more aloof or more clingy.

Double your vigilance when your pet crosses into the senior years. Many of the problems pet lovers assume are just part of the aging process -- stiff joints or absentmindedness -- can be treated, with both traditional and alternative methods available.

Such treatments can vastly improve your aging pet's quality of life, and yours as well, since you won't be dealing with the accompanying behavior problems. If you're already dealing with unwanted behavior, call your veterinarian first. Because punishing a sick pet isn't fair, and it won't fix a thing.

SIDEBAR

Veterinary behaviorists: Best of both worlds

A veterinary behaviorist can be the answer to many a difficult pet-behavior challenge. These veterinarians have additional training and certification in animal behavior, and so can work with pet lovers to address any problem simultaneously from medical and behavioral angles. And, of course, they can prescribe medications that may help with retraining in the short run or fix a behavioral problem permanently in the long run.

Your veterinarian should be able to refer you to a veterinary behaviorist in your area, or you can contact your nearest school or college of veterinary medicine. -- G.S.

On PetConnection.com

Pet Connection is produced by a team of team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori.

PetConnection.com features a weekly drawing for free prizes -- now featuring memberships to 1-800-HELP4PETS.

You'll also find more on pet health and behavior, a searchable archive of all past columns, and reviews of "dogmobiles," pet products and pet-care books, along with a popular Web log offering frequent contributions from the entire Pet Connection staff.

Q&A

What to do when "he" lays an egg

Q: We have a 3-year-old nanday conure. The people we got her from had told us the bird was male, but last night she laid her first egg. What should we do? -- M.C., via e-mail.

A: For help with this one, I turned to Dr. Brian L. Speer, one of the world's top avian veterinarians and my co-author on "Birds for Dummies" (Wiley, $22). Speer says that in such cases, removing the egg is the common recommendation. But there's more to know about egg-laying birds and how to handle them.

"Unlike many mammals, birds do not cycle regularly," says Speer. "Their reproductive cycle is dependent on environmental cues that tend to support and justify the expenditure of energy for reproductive purposes."

Such clues, he says, include thinking there's a mate available, believing there's an adequate nesting site in the cage, having adequate food and a healthy environment. To keep your bird from continuing to lay eggs, Speer says it's important to evaluate the bird's care, especially when it comes to handling and the environment.

Instead of offering your bird the materials that can be used for nesting, says Speer, provide food puzzles stuffed with lower-calorie foods to keep her busy "foraging" for meals in an imitation of how she'd behave in the wild. And just in case a member of your family is being perceived as the "mate," be sure pair-bonding between a single person and bird is discouraged by having all members of the family becoming involved in bird care.

Finally, mix things up. "A bird's environment should be continually changed, altered or moved," says Speer. "That's because constant changes in the environment tend not to encourage or support reproductive activity."

So ... throw the egg away, and then take a good close look at the messages your bird is getting. If they're saying "lay," it's time to shake things up a bit. -- Gina Spadafori

Muddy paw cures

Q: We have a 2-year-old golden retriever. We keep his nails trimmed. But if it's wet when he goes outside, he comes back in with mud all over him. Then we have to wash his feet. Can you declaw dogs? Any ideas? -- D.C., via e-mail

A: You're kidding me, right? You're asking if it's possible to have the tips of your dog's toes hacked off so you don't have to use a towel on his muddy feet? Let's put that idea to rest right away: No, you can't declaw your dog. And even if you could, it wouldn't stop your pet from tracking in mud.

But that doesn't mean you have to have mud all over the house just because your dog goes out in wet weather. To minimize the muck, keep the fur on your dog's feet trimmed short, especially between the pads. That'll limit the amount of mud that sticks to the paws.

And get some mats. Put doormats designed for high-traffic areas both outside and inside all doors to catch as much mud as possible before your pet gets on the carpet. The larger the mats the better, since a bigger size will offer a bigger chance that all four feet will hit the rubber on the way in.

Finally, teach your dog to wait on the inside mat until he's told he can proceed into the house. Keep a towel handy by the door, and use it to wipe off your pet's feet. With consistency and praise, your dog will learn not only to wait until he's wiped, but also to offer each paw in turn to make the job easier. -- Gina Spadafori

THE SCOOP

Stink? It makes scents to dogs

While veterinary behaviorists aren't sure why dogs like to roll in stinky stuff and eat rotten things, many believe these pets are marking themselves with their most prized possessions to show them off to all of their two-legged and four-legged friends. For a dog, wearing stinky stuff is like wearing the best of all designer-label scents.

Not only do dogs have millions more scent receptors than we have, they are also polar opposites when it comes to putting stuff on their skin. While people like smells that are fresh, floral and fragrant, dogs prefer dirty, dead and (to us) disgusting. While my wife, Teresa, likes to dab herself with her favorite perfume, my dogs have generally preferred scents like pile-of-whatever and long-dead skunk.

Forget trying to prevent your dog from Dumpster-diving or digging up the stinkiest things imaginable. For you it's disgusting; for them it's divine. With thousands of years of practice behind them, dogs will continue to go boldly where no man, or woman, would ever choose to go. The only way to stop the stinky search-and-roll is to keep your dog on the leash -- or teach a foolproof come-hither when called. -- Dr. Marty Becker

PET TIP

Drinking water needs warmth

A frozen source of water isn't any better than no water at all. If you have an outside source of drinking water for any of the animals in your care, make sure the liquid remains unfrozen during winter.

Pet- and farm-supply stores and catalog merchants stock devices for keeping water liquid, from heated bowls to heater coils. They're good investments when it comes to keeping clean, fresh water flowing for any pets who spend time outside. -- Gina Spadafori

DOGMOBILES

Take dogs anywhere in rugged Xterra

When it comes to what makes a good "dogmobile," it's hip to be square.

That's because the safest way to transport a dog is in a crate that's strapped down inside the vehicle. And crates fit best in vehicles that are squared off in the rear.

Problem is, you won't find that many of them. Trends in automotive design tend to favor round edges and sloping backs. Many of the SUVs and crossover wagons I've test-driven have had ample floor space to fit large-sized dog crates in the cargo area, but the sloped-rear design meant you couldn't close the rear hatch.

Not so with the Nissan Xterra. The tough-guy design -- with hard, square edges -- means every inch of cargo space is usable and dog crates fit easily into it. For this reason and a few others, this midsized SUV is one of the best "dogmobiles" I've driven.

The Xterra makes it easy to deal with dirt and dog gear. Grooved rubber in the cargo area keeps the muck contained and makes it easy to clean out. The combination of cargo hooks, racks and countless nooks and crannies means that every bit of gear will fit inside or on top, and can be cinched down for security no matter what road you're on.

The Xterra's also a kick to drive. Mind you, it is a real SUV -- especially the Off-Road edition I was testing, at a tick over $29,000 -- and a certain amount of stiffness goes along with that. But it's comfortable on the highway, surefooted off-road and not even hard to maneuver in city traffic -- and I do mean city traffic: I had it in downtown San Francisco. Fuel economy is a moderate 16/21 mpg.

For an SUV with such an off-road pedigree, the Xterra was surprisingly comfortable, especially the seats, with great lumbar support. It has a well-designed interior, too -- everything you'd want to turn on, turn off or look at is just where you'd want it. -- Gina Spadafori

BY THE NUMBERS

Where kitties snooze

You can buy a nice bed for your cat, but chances are he'd rather sleep in yours. That's one conclusion to draw from a 2004 survey of cat lovers, who were asked where their cats slept (multiple answers allowed):

Anywhere he wants 51 percent

On the bed 51 percent

Couch/chair 41 percent

Floor 23 percent

Garage 12 percent

Cat bed 11 percent

Source: American Pet Products Manufacturers Association

ON GOOD BEHAVIOR

Keeping pets in their place

Many people can't deny their pets anything. But overly permissive treatment does not strengthen the bond between people and their pets. It's better to persist, insist and be consistent to help your pet see you as a teacher and a leader.

For example, if you don't want your pet entering a specific room, allow no exceptions. When you are not home, set up a barrier to prevent access. When you're present and able to observe, tell your pet "ah-ah" to interrupt trespassing. If your pet stops, praise him enthusiastically, call him away from the forbidden zone, and offer him a treat. If needed, move the pet back from your virtual barrier. Be patient: The lesson will take quite a few repetitions to learn.

(Animal behavior experts Susan and Dr. Rolan Tripp are the authors of "On Good Behavior." For more information, visit their Web site at AnimalBehavior.net.)

Pet Connection is produced by a team of team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper, by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

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