pets

Bad Pet or a Sick One?

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | January 22nd, 2007

Some of the saddest letters I get are from people who are punishing or even contemplating ending the lives of formerly well-mannered pets with new behavior problems. So many of these pet lovers chalk up the changes to "spite" or some other offbeat reason while missing the most obvious reason of all:

The pet is sick.

Some everyday examples:

-- An 8-year-old cat who has always been pretty relaxed suddenly starts zooming around, knocking things off tables and using claws in play.

-- A 9-year-old collie mix who has always been trustworthy and happy suddenly starts snapping when being petted.

-- A 6-year-old cat suddenly starts missing the litter box, even though there has been no change in the location, filler or cleanliness.

People often look for one simple training tip that will bring back the problem-free relationship they had with their animal companions. But sometimes what pet lovers assume is a behavioral problem really isn't -- it's a medical problem, one that will be resolved only with proper diagnosis and treatment.

That zooming cat? There's a pretty good chance she has a condition called hyperthyroidism, in which the thyroid gland overproduces and in so doing prompts behavior changes in a cat whose body is suddenly supercharged.

That snapping dog? A painful ear infection may be the culprit, or perhaps joint pain. The fact that she's snapping, not biting, when petted despite her extreme pain speaks volumes about her good temperament.

And what about the cat whose perfect potty habits are suddenly gone? His case could have any number of medical causes behind it, from an infection or kidney disease to diabetes.

With good medical care, all three of these pets will likely be made healthy again and should be able to be well-mannered pets again. Cases such as these make clear why the first rule of solving any behavior problem is to make sure that it's not a medical problem. This is especially true if the behavior change is sudden.

If you start trying to retrain a pet who's sick, not only will you get nowhere, but you'll also delay the resolution of a condition that may be causing your pet discomfort or pain.

It's important to know what's normal for your pet and to look for small changes in appearance or behavior that could be the early signs of illness, even before they prompt annoying behavior problems. It's important to always keep an eye on your pet's overall condition, for example, being careful to note a loss in weight, a newfound dullness to his coat or a change in energy levels.

Changes in eating and elimination habits are also worthy of investigation, as are subtle shifts in temperament -- like a pet who seems a little more aloof or more clingy.

Double your vigilance when your pet crosses into the senior years. Many of the problems pet lovers assume are just part of the aging process -- stiff joints or absentmindedness -- can be treated, with both traditional and alternative methods available.

Such treatments can vastly improve your aging pet's quality of life, and yours as well, since you won't be dealing with the accompanying behavior problems. If you're already dealing with unwanted behavior, call your veterinarian first. Because punishing a sick pet isn't fair, and it won't fix a thing.

SIDEBAR

Veterinary behaviorists: Best of both worlds

A veterinary behaviorist can be the answer to many a difficult pet-behavior challenge. These veterinarians have additional training and certification in animal behavior, and so can work with pet lovers to address any problem simultaneously from medical and behavioral angles. And, of course, they can prescribe medications that may help with retraining in the short run or fix a behavioral problem permanently in the long run.

Your veterinarian should be able to refer you to a veterinary behaviorist in your area, or you can contact your nearest school or college of veterinary medicine. -- G.S.

On PetConnection.com

Pet Connection is produced by a team of team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori.

PetConnection.com features a weekly drawing for free prizes -- now featuring memberships to 1-800-HELP4PETS.

You'll also find more on pet health and behavior, a searchable archive of all past columns, and reviews of "dogmobiles," pet products and pet-care books, along with a popular Web log offering frequent contributions from the entire Pet Connection staff.

Q&A

What to do when "he" lays an egg

Q: We have a 3-year-old nanday conure. The people we got her from had told us the bird was male, but last night she laid her first egg. What should we do? -- M.C., via e-mail.

A: For help with this one, I turned to Dr. Brian L. Speer, one of the world's top avian veterinarians and my co-author on "Birds for Dummies" (Wiley, $22). Speer says that in such cases, removing the egg is the common recommendation. But there's more to know about egg-laying birds and how to handle them.

"Unlike many mammals, birds do not cycle regularly," says Speer. "Their reproductive cycle is dependent on environmental cues that tend to support and justify the expenditure of energy for reproductive purposes."

Such clues, he says, include thinking there's a mate available, believing there's an adequate nesting site in the cage, having adequate food and a healthy environment. To keep your bird from continuing to lay eggs, Speer says it's important to evaluate the bird's care, especially when it comes to handling and the environment.

Instead of offering your bird the materials that can be used for nesting, says Speer, provide food puzzles stuffed with lower-calorie foods to keep her busy "foraging" for meals in an imitation of how she'd behave in the wild. And just in case a member of your family is being perceived as the "mate," be sure pair-bonding between a single person and bird is discouraged by having all members of the family becoming involved in bird care.

Finally, mix things up. "A bird's environment should be continually changed, altered or moved," says Speer. "That's because constant changes in the environment tend not to encourage or support reproductive activity."

So ... throw the egg away, and then take a good close look at the messages your bird is getting. If they're saying "lay," it's time to shake things up a bit. -- Gina Spadafori

Muddy paw cures

Q: We have a 2-year-old golden retriever. We keep his nails trimmed. But if it's wet when he goes outside, he comes back in with mud all over him. Then we have to wash his feet. Can you declaw dogs? Any ideas? -- D.C., via e-mail

A: You're kidding me, right? You're asking if it's possible to have the tips of your dog's toes hacked off so you don't have to use a towel on his muddy feet? Let's put that idea to rest right away: No, you can't declaw your dog. And even if you could, it wouldn't stop your pet from tracking in mud.

But that doesn't mean you have to have mud all over the house just because your dog goes out in wet weather. To minimize the muck, keep the fur on your dog's feet trimmed short, especially between the pads. That'll limit the amount of mud that sticks to the paws.

And get some mats. Put doormats designed for high-traffic areas both outside and inside all doors to catch as much mud as possible before your pet gets on the carpet. The larger the mats the better, since a bigger size will offer a bigger chance that all four feet will hit the rubber on the way in.

Finally, teach your dog to wait on the inside mat until he's told he can proceed into the house. Keep a towel handy by the door, and use it to wipe off your pet's feet. With consistency and praise, your dog will learn not only to wait until he's wiped, but also to offer each paw in turn to make the job easier. -- Gina Spadafori

THE SCOOP

Stink? It makes scents to dogs

While veterinary behaviorists aren't sure why dogs like to roll in stinky stuff and eat rotten things, many believe these pets are marking themselves with their most prized possessions to show them off to all of their two-legged and four-legged friends. For a dog, wearing stinky stuff is like wearing the best of all designer-label scents.

Not only do dogs have millions more scent receptors than we have, they are also polar opposites when it comes to putting stuff on their skin. While people like smells that are fresh, floral and fragrant, dogs prefer dirty, dead and (to us) disgusting. While my wife, Teresa, likes to dab herself with her favorite perfume, my dogs have generally preferred scents like pile-of-whatever and long-dead skunk.

Forget trying to prevent your dog from Dumpster-diving or digging up the stinkiest things imaginable. For you it's disgusting; for them it's divine. With thousands of years of practice behind them, dogs will continue to go boldly where no man, or woman, would ever choose to go. The only way to stop the stinky search-and-roll is to keep your dog on the leash -- or teach a foolproof come-hither when called. -- Dr. Marty Becker

PET TIP

Drinking water needs warmth

A frozen source of water isn't any better than no water at all. If you have an outside source of drinking water for any of the animals in your care, make sure the liquid remains unfrozen during winter.

Pet- and farm-supply stores and catalog merchants stock devices for keeping water liquid, from heated bowls to heater coils. They're good investments when it comes to keeping clean, fresh water flowing for any pets who spend time outside. -- Gina Spadafori

DOGMOBILES

Take dogs anywhere in rugged Xterra

When it comes to what makes a good "dogmobile," it's hip to be square.

That's because the safest way to transport a dog is in a crate that's strapped down inside the vehicle. And crates fit best in vehicles that are squared off in the rear.

Problem is, you won't find that many of them. Trends in automotive design tend to favor round edges and sloping backs. Many of the SUVs and crossover wagons I've test-driven have had ample floor space to fit large-sized dog crates in the cargo area, but the sloped-rear design meant you couldn't close the rear hatch.

Not so with the Nissan Xterra. The tough-guy design -- with hard, square edges -- means every inch of cargo space is usable and dog crates fit easily into it. For this reason and a few others, this midsized SUV is one of the best "dogmobiles" I've driven.

The Xterra makes it easy to deal with dirt and dog gear. Grooved rubber in the cargo area keeps the muck contained and makes it easy to clean out. The combination of cargo hooks, racks and countless nooks and crannies means that every bit of gear will fit inside or on top, and can be cinched down for security no matter what road you're on.

The Xterra's also a kick to drive. Mind you, it is a real SUV -- especially the Off-Road edition I was testing, at a tick over $29,000 -- and a certain amount of stiffness goes along with that. But it's comfortable on the highway, surefooted off-road and not even hard to maneuver in city traffic -- and I do mean city traffic: I had it in downtown San Francisco. Fuel economy is a moderate 16/21 mpg.

For an SUV with such an off-road pedigree, the Xterra was surprisingly comfortable, especially the seats, with great lumbar support. It has a well-designed interior, too -- everything you'd want to turn on, turn off or look at is just where you'd want it. -- Gina Spadafori

BY THE NUMBERS

Where kitties snooze

You can buy a nice bed for your cat, but chances are he'd rather sleep in yours. That's one conclusion to draw from a 2004 survey of cat lovers, who were asked where their cats slept (multiple answers allowed):

Anywhere he wants 51 percent

On the bed 51 percent

Couch/chair 41 percent

Floor 23 percent

Garage 12 percent

Cat bed 11 percent

Source: American Pet Products Manufacturers Association

ON GOOD BEHAVIOR

Keeping pets in their place

Many people can't deny their pets anything. But overly permissive treatment does not strengthen the bond between people and their pets. It's better to persist, insist and be consistent to help your pet see you as a teacher and a leader.

For example, if you don't want your pet entering a specific room, allow no exceptions. When you are not home, set up a barrier to prevent access. When you're present and able to observe, tell your pet "ah-ah" to interrupt trespassing. If your pet stops, praise him enthusiastically, call him away from the forbidden zone, and offer him a treat. If needed, move the pet back from your virtual barrier. Be patient: The lesson will take quite a few repetitions to learn.

(Animal behavior experts Susan and Dr. Rolan Tripp are the authors of "On Good Behavior." For more information, visit their Web site at AnimalBehavior.net.)

Pet Connection is produced by a team of team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper, by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

pets

Trim and Healthy

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | January 15th, 2007

As I drove down our one-mile lane in heavy snow, a neighbor stuck his head out of the door and waved me over to his home. After a warm hello, he pointed to Misty, his obese bichon frise, and asked, "Is she overweight?" Before I could answer, he added, "We think she's just got a lot of hair!"

What "big-boned" is to big people, "fluffy" is to big pets.

In surveys about pet body types (ideal, overweight, obese), about half of pet lovers with obese pets said their pets were at an ideal body weight. Because we equate food with love, we're killing our pets with kindness.

We are putting too much food in our pets' mouths and too few miles on their feet. Working dogs, once born to herd, guard or retrieve, are now born retired. The end result? About half of American pets are overweight or obese. This pet-health epidemic increases the risk of diabetes, heart and joint problems, and cancer and skin problems.

Losing just 20 percent of excess weight results in 50 percent improvement in pet health. One long-term study showed pets at their ideal body weight living 15 percent longer, an average of two years.

To reverse health problems and tap into the furry fountain of youth, help your dog lose weight in 2007 with these seven tips.

1. Walk away the weight. Famed human-obesity expert Dr. Robert Kushner, working with Northwestern Memorial Hospital and Hill's Nutrition, did a landmark study called "People and Pets Exercising Together," which found that overweight people and their pets not only lost weight but also kept the weight off by dieting and exercising together. I teamed with Dr. Kushner and wrote "Fitness Unleashed: A Dog and Owner's Guide to Losing Weight and Gaining Health Together" (Three Rivers Press, $14), which details a proven, personalized and progressive program for losing weight and getting healthier.

2. Consider a change in diet. Talk to your veterinarian about a diet pet food that has lower calories and fat, and special ingredients to help burn fat and maintain lean muscle mass. A prescription diet may be a big part of any weight-loss plan.

3. Maintain portion control. Labrador retrievers put on a controlled diet safely lost 2 percent of their body weight each week. A similar group of Labradors put on a diet at home lost less than one-quarter that amount because the food at home was "guesstimated," seemingly on the high side. Invest in a measuring cup, and feed exactly the amount recommended by your veterinarian.

4. Split portions. Your dog may feel more satiated if you split his total daily allotment into three equal feedings. If your dog doesn't eat right away, don't worry. In the wild, it would be normal to skip a meal now and again. One cause of obesity is owners "doctoring up" food to be more tasty when dogs walk away from a meal.

5. Healthy snacking. Everybody, even veterinarians, enjoy giving pets treats. Try healthier choices such as whole baby carrots, apple slices, green beans and so on.

6. Play the slots. In Las Vegas, you don't expect to win on every pull, hand or cast. It's the anticipation that keeps you going. Instead of constantly handing treats to your dog, give intermittent treats to amp up the expectation of winning for your dog. Offer pieces of dog kibble as treats, with occasional "jackpot items" such as freeze-dried meat or fresh cooked poultry meat, skin removed.

7. Use food puzzles. Today, dogs mindlessly chow down what's been put in their bowls, leaving them bored, overweight and acting out with behavioral problems. By using food puzzles such as Canine Genius, Bustercube, Molecuball and Busy Buddy, you allow the dog to work for his food and feel more satisfied, both physically and emotionally. Food puzzles are available through pet-supply stores on online pet-supply retailers.

Stop making excuses for your "fluffy" pet. Take a few simple steps, and your pet will be healthier and happier in the new year.

SIDEBAR

On PetConnection.com

Pet Connection is produced by a team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori.

PetConnection.com features a weekly drawing for free prizes -- now featuring memberships to 1-800-HELP4PETS and gift baskets from the Kong company.

You'll also find more on pet health and behavior, a searchable archive of all past columns, and reviews of "dogmobiles," pet products and pet-care books, along with a popular Web log offering frequent contributions from the entire Pet Connection staff.

Q&A

Destructive Lab needs options

Q: I have a yellow Labrador retriever. He's a year and a half old, weighs 95 pounds, and he eats absolutely everything. When he was younger, he ate a Ziploc bag he found on a walk, my soft eyeglass case and wood whenever he finds it (the tree in the back yard, the lattice off the deck, etc.). In the last month he ate a small wool glove. Last week he ate a small thick sock with leather on it whole, as a snake would. Is it just Labs? When will it stop? -- L.K., via e-mail.

A: Labradors are well-known for their propensity to keep their mouths busy, especially through adolescence, which lasts until about their second birthday. A common saying among veterinarians is that Labradors "chew 'til they're 2 and shed 'til they're dead." That chewing perhaps goes along with another nickname for the breed: "Flabadors," because of their tendency to overeat if allowed to.

Aside from the annoyance factor of losing gloves, socks and more to your dog, his chewing is putting his life at risk. Dogs who pick up and swallow randomly found objects are at high risk for developing intestinal blockages. These often require surgery and can be deadly.

It's up to you to protect your pet. Work to keep items out of his reach by picking up after yourself and getting after the rest of the family to do so, too. When you cannot supervise your youngster, restrict his roaming to a smaller area that you can keep safely cleared -- no more run of the house and yard when you're not there to watch.

Finally, satisfy his normal urge to chew by providing him with safe, durable chew toys. You'll find a wonderful selection at your pet-supply store, including products from Nylabone and Kong. Kong toys are especially useful for dealing with chewers, since you can pack them with broken bits of treats layered with peanut butter. A stuffed Kong will keep a vigorous chewer busy and out of trouble for a good long time.

When you see your dog chewing something you don't want him to, don't scream at him or hit him. Instead, take the item from him and offer an acceptable chew toy. Praise him for taking it and for chewing on it.

Labradors are wonderful family dogs, but their adolescence can be very trying. Be patient, diligent and consistent in keeping him out of trouble, offer him acceptable alternatives to errant chewing, and the situation should improve as he ages. -- Gina Spadafori

Bargain neatness

Q: Would you share a tip for pet lovers trying to keep things neat on a budget? I find that the $3 rubber welcome mats from the dollar store have become a life saver for putting underneath the litter box and food dishes. They can be cleaned so much easier than rug-type mats, they dry faster, and they don't hold odors as cloth/rug types of pet mats do. They also stay in place better on slick floors. -- T.C., via e-mail

A: Thanks for your suggestion! I'm also a believer in rubber mats for keeping pet messes at bay. I use them not only under dishes and litter boxes, but also on both sides of every door to the outside. I clean up a lot fewer muddy paw prints with mats in place.

The dollar-store suggestion is a good one. I also keep an eye out for bigger mats at warehouse and home-improvement stores. The mat just outside my back door is huge, so it's more likely that all four paws on all four dogs will hit it at least once on the way into the dining room. -- Gina Spadafori

THE SCOOP

Keeping cats off counter

Tired of cats on the counter? Keep kitty from going airborne by covering the off-limits areas with double-sided tape, aluminum foil or upside-down carpet runners. Cats don't like it when their paws stick to something. They also dislike the sound and feel of aluminum foil, and find the knobs on the carpet runners uncomfortable.

You can also try cookie pans filled with water, or spraying bath towels with pet repellent and covering the affected areas. The advantage of these approaches is that they work whether you're around or not. Plus they set up the cat to choose to make the proper response -- staying off the counter -- on his own. Studies indicate that animals set up to choose the correct response learn faster than those who are simply frightened away.

Don't forget that deterring cats from climbing where they shouldn't solves only half of the problem. You also need to provide them with safe and approved places to climb, such as a sturdy cat tree. -- Dr. Marty Becker

PET TIP

Recycled beds for cold cats

Cats crave warmth, which is why they're wonderful bed companions on a cold night. But when you can't be there to provide snuggle space, your cat will appreciate a soft bed to sleep on.

One option for comfortable pet beds at no cost is to recycle toilet-seat covers. The covers are the perfect size for most cats and provide a perfect option to throwing out old covers when they're worn or your decor changes. (If you have extras, check to see if your local shelter will welcome the donation.)

Because covering upholstery is one way to protect it from cat hair, you might put a seat cover or two in places your cat loves to nap, such as on the couch or a favorite chair. Whatever hair ends up on the seat cover won't get on your upholstery and will easily come out in the wash. -- Gina Spadafori

BREED TYPE

Health problems dog cute Cavalier

Nearly 50 Cavalier King Charles spaniels will prance into the ring at Westminster this year, which makes their breed the second-largest entry at the famous dog show. It's a tribute to the rapid rise in popularity of this toy breed.

Bred to resemble the big-eyed, long-eared lap dogs seen in so many 18th-century portraits, the good looks and charm of this toy spaniel are undeniable. Their silky coats come in four color combinations, with the chestnut-and-white "Blenheim" pattern the most common.

Sadly, the breed suffers from a number of potential health problems.

The most serious is mitral valve disease, a potentially lethal defect of the left valve of the heart. It can strike while the dog is still quite young and is found in all bloodlines from all countries. All responsible breeders screen their dogs for heart disease, and there are no exceptions. Cavs can also suffer from a neurological disorder known as syringomyelia.

There are two clubs for the breed in the United States, and both have strict codes of ethics requiring their member breeders to screen their dogs for health problems. Be certain the breeder you select is a member in good standing of either club and is actively working to produce healthy puppies. More information on finding a Cav puppy from a health-conscious breeder can be found at www.cavalierhealth.org.

Cavs are wonderful dogs for seniors and apartment living. Their grooming and exercise needs are modest, although they love to play and do need daily brushing. They have a tendency to put weight on easily, so owners must not overfeed them. And Cavs cannot live outdoors or in a kennel. They are lap dogs through and through, so be sure you have a warm lap to offer if you bring a Cav into your home. -- Christie Keith

BY THE NUMBERS

Go fish!

While stunningly beautiful fish tanks are what catch attention, many people are still content to have a small setup with just a goldfish or two. In 2004, people who have fish reported the kinds they kept (multiple answers allowed):

Tropical 43 percent

Goldfish 38 percent

Other 20 percent

Cichlids 7 percent

Pond-kept 7 percent

Source: American Pet Products Manufacturers Association

ON GOOD BEHAVIOR

Early handling key to kitten development

Early socialization is important in turning a kitten into a loving cat. A moderate amount of gentle handling, which should start from birth and continue through a kitten's key stages for learning social skills (between 3 and 8 weeks of age), will help increase a kitten's ability to bond with people.

Kittens are born both blind and deaf. Eyes and ears begin to function at seven to 10 days after birth, and kittens start walking days later. Each one finds his or her own nipple on the mother cat, which then becomes identified by smell. Most kittens start purring by the time they're a week old, and the sound reassures their mom that they are fine and she can relax. We can relate!

(Animal behavior experts Susan and Dr. Rolan Tripp are the authors of "On Good Behavior." For more information, visit their Web site at AnimalBehavior.net.)

Pet Connection is produced by a team of team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper, by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

pets

Puppy, No!

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | January 8th, 2007

As adorable as puppies can be, anyone who's raising one will tell you they can drive you crazy. To get through those sometimes trying months and come out with the dog you want, always remember two things in dealing with puppies: Be patient and be positive.

Every puppy needs to be guided on the road to good behavior, and along the way many a puppy strays off the path into trouble. The best way to avoid problems is to set up your home and your handling of the puppy so his only choice is to do what's right and get praised for it.

But what if your puppy makes a mistake? A verbal correction, properly timed and correctly delivered, is usually all you need. Speak low and sharply, but don't yell at your puppy. Really, all you need to do is provide a distraction to stop and then redirect the errant behavior.

Here are two more ways to send a clear message of disapproval:

-- Distract and redirect. Especially useful for the young puppy, this technique stops a behavior you don't want and guides the puppy to one that's acceptable. For example, if your young puppy is chewing on your nice leather shoes, make a noise to startle and distract him -- slap the counter or clap your hands -- and then give him something you do want him to chew on, such as a toy. When he takes it, praise him for redirecting those sharp puppy teeth.

With older puppies, you can often stop a bad behavior by asking for a better one, and praising. Ask the puppy who's jumping up to "sit," and praise or give him a treat for doing so. Tell him once, and if he doesn't mind (to be fair, be sure he understands what you want), gently guide him into a sit, and then praise and treat.

-- The time-out. Puppies thrive on your attention, even if it's negative. The time-out removes this reward. This technique is especially good for a puppy who doesn't want to keep his mouth to himself, a bad habit for any dog to get into where people are concerned. When the puppy starts nipping, tell him "no," and then clam up, pick him up and put him in a crate or other small, safe area for a few minutes. Ignore the cries and whimpers. After a few minutes of quiet, let him out without fanfare and let him hang out with you gently for a while. The message: When the teeth touch skin, it's "game over."

If your puppy has been running around for a long time and just seems bratty, he may be tired. If that's the case, put him down for a nap in a crate or small area, along with a chew toy. Again, ignore his fussing. Chances are, he'll be asleep in a few minutes.

Corrections have their place in puppy-raising, but in general, a positive approach is preferred by today's dog-training experts. Positive dog-training isn't about letting your puppy or dog be boss, but rather about setting limits without yelling or hitting. If you find yourself resorting to any of these techniques constantly, you could probably do with some help from a trainer to spot what you're doing wrong with your puppy and to make some constructive suggestions.

Don't let your puppy grow up to be a monster. Be patient and positive, and be fair with corrections. And don't forget: Get help at the first sign of trouble, and you'll save yourself a lot of trouble down the road.

SIDEBAR

Get that puppy into class!

One of the best things you can do to get your puppy off to a good start is to get him into a puppy class. These classes are more about socialization and teaching puppies to pay attention than they are about overtaxing a puppy's short attention span. And that's perfect for a youngster who's just learning about the world around him.

Ask your veterinarian for a recommendation, or check out local pet-supply shops or park and recreation districts. You'll often find puppy classes running nearly year-round, to help catch little problems before they become big ones.

Q&A

Compromise on cat situation

Q: My boyfriend is moving into my home. My cat has been a point of conflict, because he doesn't like cats, says the litter box stinks and is mildly allergic. The cat is the only problem we have, and he wants me to make Miles an outdoor cat. Miles has been with me longer than the boyfriend has. What do you suggest? -- H.C., via e-mail

A: Compromise. And if compromise isn't an option, I'd really think twice about having this man move in. I think you'll be having more problems down the line living with someone who won't compromise on an issue as important to you as a beloved pet.

Let's take this one complaint at a time. He doesn't like cats, but maybe you don't like something he does or has. I'm not a relationship counselor, but I do know that in a relationship, everyone has to tolerate what a partner cares about. He doesn't have to like your cat, but he will have to tolerate the animal. The ball's in his court on that one.

Stinky litter box? If you're removing the clumps a couple of times a day and cleaning the entire litter box regularly, this shouldn't be a problem. You might try switching to a different litter with odor-fighting properties, but beware: If your cat doesn't like the new litter, you'll have deposits all over the house instead of in the box. You might also try moving the box to a more out-of-the-way location. But again, you're tempting fate with this one if the new locale doesn't meet with your cat's approval.

Diligent vacuuming, weekly bathing of the cat in clear water and an air purifier may make your cat less likely to trigger allergies, as will having your boyfriend take allergy medications. If your boyfriend pets the cat, he needs to get in the habit of washing his hands before touching his eyes and triggering an allergic reaction. Making certain portions of the house permanently off-limits to the cat -- especially the bedroom -- is another option.

Work out all the issues before anyone moves anywhere. If you toss your cat outside, you're increasing the likelihood that his life will be shorter and denying yourself the pleasure of his company.

Too much hair!

Q: My shorthaired calico sheds more than any cat I've ever known. Her hair is everywhere, especially white hair. I thought shorthaired cats shed less. What can I do to stop this? -- T.A., via e-mail

A: Assuming the fur coat looks healthy -- sleek, shiny and full with no bare patches -- your cat is probably shedding a normal amount, which is to say, constantly.

It's a myth that longhaired pets shed more than shorthaired ones. The former just appear to shed more because the hair they lose is more visible. Your cat's shedding may seem more prolific because much of the fur is white and thus shows easily on any dark-colored piece of clothing.

You can't stop a cat from shedding, nor should you try to. It's a normal process for a healthy cat, in which old fur is replaced by new. You can reduce the impact of shedding by grooming your cat daily. After all, the fur you catch on a brush won't show up on your clothes or furniture. Gentle brushing is also an experience that will strengthen the bond with your pet.

For your shorthaired cat, try a grooming glove. These have nubs to catch the fur while you're petting your cat. A couple of minutes a day will collect a large amount of the loose fur that's ready to be shed. -- Gina Spadafori

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

THE SCOOP

All pet iguanas need to bathe

In the wild, reports Melissa Kaplan in her marvelous book "Iguanas for Dummies" (Wiley, $20), iguanas keep themselves sort of clean by rubbing against rough bark or dousing themselves in swimming holes. In captivity, rough bark and swimming holes are rare, which is why Kaplan recommends frequent -- as often as daily -- bathing for these pets.

Fill the bathtub chest-deep to the iguana and let the pet enjoy the warm water -- no soap, please! -- to his heart's content. Blot the animal dry with a towel and return him to his enclosure before thoroughly disinfecting the tub.

An important note of caution: If there are children or immune-compromised individuals in the home, use a completely separate bathtub for the iguana. Even with careful disinfecting, the consequences of bacterial infection for immune-compromised folks are too dire to take any chances. -- Gina Spadafori

PETS ON THE WEB

Funding research into pet health

The Morris Animal Foundation (www.morrisanimalfoundation.org) funds research at veterinary schools and colleges that seek to cure some of the diseases that claim the lives of companion animals.

Founded in 1948 by veterinarian Mark Morris (who founded the company now known as Hill's Pet Nutrition), the foundation gives more than $4 million annually in grants for animal-health studies. The foundation's Web site offers detailed information on studies in progress, and on upcoming events. -- Dr. Marty Becker

On PetConnection.com

You'll find even more pet-care help on the PetConnection.com Web site.

PetConnection.com features a weekly drawing for free prizes -- now featuring memberships to 1-800-HELP4PETS and gift baskets from the Kong company. It also offers tips on pet health and behavior, a searchable archive of all past columns, and reviews of "dogmobiles," products and pet-care books, along with a popular Web log offering frequent contributions from the entire Pet Connection staff.

PET TIP

Turn your love of pets into profit

Would you like to make money writing about or taking pictures of animals? These days it's as easy as starting your own Web log or picking up a digital camera. The Internet offers opportunity for breaking into writing, and I know several people who've been asked to contribute magazine articles, develop book proposals or sell images just by doing what they love -- writing about animals.

A great place to start is with a class in free-lance writing or photography, which you can often find at a community college. These courses teach you the basics of marketing your ideas, contacting editors and more.

A great way to advance is by writing for the newsletters, magazines or Web sites of nonprofit groups such as animal shelters, breed or training clubs, or pet-therapy groups. While they generally don't pay, these publications will provide you with the experience and clips you need to show to editors at national publications. To sell images, try uploading your best work to a stock photography Web site, which will pay you a small amount every time your image is purchased.

Read the publications you want to write for to get a feel for the subject matter they're interested in. You wouldn't want to pitch an anti-hunting piece to a hunting-dog magazine, for example, or a pro-hunting piece to an animal-rights magazine. You also need to know what has been covered lately, so you don't waste your time or the editor's by pitching an idea that's already been done.

Finally, consider joining the Dog Writers Association of America (www.dwaa.org) or the Cat Writers' Association (www.catwriters.org). These groups support and encourage beginners who write about animals through an annual conference (co-sponsored by both groups) and competitions (held by each). Sorry, there are no groups (at least not yet) for those who write about reptiles, birds or rodent pets. -- Gina Spadafori

BY THE NUMBERS

Training gear

Almost half (49 percent) of all dog owners responding to a 2004 survey said they didn't use any training devices or service at all. Of the remainder, here are the most popular responses:

Treats 37 percent

All other 12 percent

Books 11 percent

Hired professional 9 percent

Whistle 5 percent

No-bark collar 4 percent

Videos 4 percent

Electric fence 3 percent

Clicker 3 percent

Source: American Pet Products Manufacturers Association

ON GOOD BEHAVIOR

Causes of, cures for aggression

When a pet bites, the first step is to get a veterinary exam with diagnostic tests to rule out any health problems. The next step is to work with a behaviorist.

Beware of simple answers. Any combination of factors may be triggering aggression, including fence-fighting, displaced aggression, dominance, drug side-effects, other pets, pain triggers, predation, possessiveness, fear, hormonal changes, protection of young, pack response, play, protection of home or family, neurological abnormalities, improper socialization, and intentionally and accidentally trained behaviors.

Once a pet has bitten, it's more likely the behavior will be repeated. If the bite broke the skin or there were repeated bites, the prognosis is even grimmer. Getting professional help right away is essential.

(Animal behavior experts Susan and Dr. Rolan Tripp are the authors of "On Good Behavior." For more information, visit their Web site at AnimalBehavior.net.)

Pet Connection is produced by a team of team of pet-care experts headed by "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker and award-winning journalist Gina Spadafori. The two are also the authors of several best-selling pet-care books. Contact Pet Connection in care of this newspaper, by sending e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com or by visiting PetConnection.com.

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