pets

Home for the Howlidays

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | December 4th, 2006

During the holiday season, people travel to be with family and friends. Despite all the best and warmest of intentions, the potential for friction is always there, and one area of possible conflict comes with a collar: the visiting dog.

While it's natural for a dog lover to want to bring a pet to a family gathering, it's not always a good idea. Before you consider bringing your dog home for the holidays, be realistic about how others might view your furry family member. For example:

-- Is your dog comfortable in new situations? Many pets aren't all that keen on being dropped into a houseful of strangers. If your pet's the nervous type, and especially if he's the snappy type, he's better left off the visitor's list.

-- Is your dog well-behaved? A dog who loves everyone is wonderful, but only if his loving exuberance is tempered with good manners. A dog who's going to bounce up to toddlers or jump on older folks who aren't steady on their feet shouldn't be given the opportunity to do either. And of course, any dog who isn't reliably house-trained has no business visiting someone else's home.

-- Is your dog clean? If you want to live with a smelly dog, that's your choice, but you shouldn't expect others to tolerate it. A bath before visiting is the minimum requirement. Even better: a professional grooming and a nail trim to reduce the possibility of any scratches.

Even if your dog is a model of clean-smelling decorum, he may still not be well-suited to a holiday visit. Are there friends or family members who are allergic to dogs, or afraid of them? Mild allergies may not be triggered if your dog is freshly bathed, but the holidays are no time to be dealing with the dog-phobic. Will you be visiting a house that already has pets? If the resident pets aren't welcoming or at least tolerant, your dog isn't a good addition to the mix.

If everything checks out, your dog is ready and your family or friends are welcoming, do everything you can to make the visit a pleasant one. Remember that people without dogs don't need to be as careful about keeping food out of reach, so watch for temptations, whether it's a candy dish on a coffee table or a holiday turkey just a little too close to the edge of the counter. Better still, crate your dog during family meals, especially if he's used to being fed from the table. Your relatives may not think food-stealing and begging are as cute as you do.

Feed your dog his meals away from the crowd -- in a crate is ideal (see sidebar) -- wash his dishes separately, and when you take him outside, don't neglect your cleanup responsibilities. A supply of plastic cleanup bags is necessary for when your pet is away from your own home.

If you keep on top of all the potential problems, your well-mannered dog may be the hit of the holidays. And that means you'll both be welcomed back again.

SIDEBAR

Crates are great for traveling, visiting

Not too many years ago, my dogs traveled loose in the car, and I thought nothing of it. And then, the most minor of fender-benders opened my eyes to the danger I was putting us all in.

One hard tap on the brakes and the small dog riding in the front seat slammed into the windshield. The big dog in the back seat thudded into the back of my seat with so much force I thought I was heading for the windshield, too. Neither the dogs nor I were damaged beyond a few bruises. But these days, my dogs travel secured, either in crates or harnessed to the seat belts.

Crates are the most versatile pet protection you can have. A sturdy crate and a dog trained to be comfortable inside one can travel safely in the car and be left alone for a while in a hotel room or strange house.

A dog who's used to being crated will be able to handle the relatively routine overnight stay at the veterinarian's with less stress for all. Finally, crates are also essential emergency gear in time of disaster. Because, well, you never know.

Q&A

Rabbits? Buy hay by bale

Q: Our household has been home to many pets over the years. At one point, we had a small flock of hens, a beehive and a fish pond outside. Inside were a dog, a cat, two bunnies, a guinea pig and a newt who lived to be 9 or 10.

The bunnies, Mr. Bun and Basil, had big cages with multiple levels and litter boxes for when they were inside. They each would get time every day to scamper in our very secure back yard. They would have their fun, and then come to the patio door and scratch to be let in, just like a cat or a dog. Mr. Bun would go out in the early morning to enjoy the garden, and then come bunny-leaping when I called to give him his breakfast.

I have a tip I hope you will pass on. Bunnies need timothy hay for digestive reasons, and they are supposed to have fresh hay every day. The hay in the pet stores is sold in a tiny bag and won't last long, while a bale of timothy hay from the feed store costs about the same and will last a whole summer. I used to peel off a flake at a time and give the bunnies all they wanted. -- J.D., via e-mail

A: I do exactly the same as you do, buying hay by the bale and providing my bunnies with all they want to eat every day. As you note, the roughage is essential to maintaining the health of the rabbits. I don't give my bunnies commercial pellets at all. Instead, I provide fresh hay and green leafy vegetables daily, with constant access to clean water and occasional treats of root vegetables and fruits. (Apples and carrots are favorites with my rabbits, Velocity and Annie.)

The biggest problem with buying hay by the bale is storage. If there's room on a covered patio or in the garage, the hay will keep for months, as long as it's protected from direct sunlight or moisture.

Your rabbits -- and mine -- are the truly lucky ones. The care of most pet rabbits is inadequate, because people just don't know enough about proper husbandry and because these lovely pets are often seen as little more than throwaway pets for children. And that's a real shame, because with proper care, room to roam and time to bond, rabbits can be surprisingly affectionate and wholly entertaining.

The best source of information on keeping happy, healthy rabbits can be found on the Web site of the House Rabbit Society (www.rabbit.org). Membership in the society is $18 a year and comes with a wonderful quarterly newsletter.

PET BOOKS

Cat celebration in lovely verse

This time of year it seems we're all looking for little gift books. For the cat lovers on your holiday list, you'll find few books sweeter than "Catku: What Is the Sound of One Cat Napping?" (Andrews McMeel, $10). Writer and designer Pat Welch has a good sense of what makes a cat tick, and sums it all up in this collection of clever haiku. Some samples:

"Your friend's sudden moves

And loud voice are amusing.

We'll be dumping him."

"The cat's motto is

Live and let live. Exceptions

Are not infrequent."

"Am I in your way?

You seem to have it backward:

This pillow's taken."

Amazing how a cat's personality can be summed up in just three lines. Nice work!

PET BUY

Dress-up collars for fine canines

My Mascot (www.mymascot.net) is a small company with a passion for innovative design in well-made collars and leashes. The designs in canvas, braided polypropylene and leather feature bright colors and fastening hardware in the shape of bones and horseshoes. Collar prices range from a suggested retail of $28 to $68; leashes cost from $48 to $88. Clever charms and ID tags complement the line.

The company sent me a Sailors Knot collar in red, white and blue ($38). The weave was smooth, the colors were true, and the collar looked great on Woody, my 2-year-old black retriever. Although the collar seemed more than sturdy enough for everyday use, I wouldn't leave a pretty, pricey collar on dogs with as much fondness for swimming and mud as my retrievers have.

It's great-looking gear for city dogs, or as special-occasion wear for those pets with more opportunities to get their collars dirty.

DOGMOBILES

Toyota off-roader can handle it all

Finally, a true dogmobile challenge -- 14 hours of driving over a holiday weekend with light off-roading at the destination. Packed up inside: two retrievers, plus crates, leashes, training tools, dishes, food, water jugs and more.

The new Toyota FJ Cruiser was up for it all, delivering a comfortable freeway ride and an effortless off-road performance at the site of a competition for hunting dogs. Fuel economy was reasonable as well, with a rating of 17 city, 21 highway, although the growly V-6 insists on premium fuel. At the end of the trip, the upholstery was easy to brush clean of dirt and debris.

The Cruiser even had one of my favorite dog-friendly features: flip-up rear glass that allows for cool-breeze cross-flow when the vehicle is parked.

But no vehicle is absolutely dog-perfect, and the Cruiser is no exception.

The rear seats don't fold flat, and the cargo space was too narrow for my side-by-side dog crates. Those problems won't be an issue for someone with dogs smaller than retrievers or fewer than two in number.

The most serious drawback to the FJ is thankfully an option: Toyota has the most dog-unfriendly alarm imaginable. You can't leave the car unlocked, or lock it and leave the alarm disengaged. The Cruiser will lock itself and set the alarm.

Once it's set, any motion inside the vehicle -- such as dogs left briefly inside while the driver takes a bathroom break -- triggers the horn and headlights. Only the dealer can turn off this dreadful feature, although if I could have found the right wires, I swear I would have ripped it out myself at the second rest stop.

The blinged-out version I test-drove topped out around $30,000, but the basic FJ starts at a tick over $23,000. In all, this Toyota with its head-turning retro styling is well worth considering -- without the alarm -- for any dog lover who needs a rugged four-wheeler.

PETS BY THE NUMBERS

Treats and more treats

Too much food and not enough exercise add up to overweight dogs and cats. Perhaps not surprisingly, the number of people who give treats to their pets is increasing in tandem with reports of obese pets by veterinarians:

Dogs given treats

2000 79 percent

2002 81 percent

2004 88 percent

Cats given treats

2000 54 percent

2002 56 percent

2004 65 percent

Source: American Pet Products Manufacturers Association

PETS ON THE WEB

Urban Hound offers help for all dogs

Even if you don't live in one of the three cities covered by the Urban Hound Web site (www.urbanhound.com), you'll find great information on dogs and their care. The site is one of the most attractive and well-organized pet-care sites I've ever seen, with content developed by professional writers and editors.

The professionalism shows, especially in one of the best features on the site, an analysis of the pet insurance companies. The Urban Hound staff takes a real dog -- a healthy 5-year-old Labrador named Quigly -- adds in hypothetical health problems, and looks at payoffs and problems with each plan.

The site also offers solid advice on health, behavior and laws pertaining to dogs, along with areas for discussion and shopping. If you live in New York, Chicago or San Francisco, you must visit. Even if you don't, the Urban Hound is well worth browsing.

Award-winning writer Gina Spadafori has two new books out, which were co-authored with "Good Morning, America" veterinary correspondent Dr. Marty Becker: "Do Cats Always Land on Their Feet?" and "Why Do Dogs Drink From the Toilet?" She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.petconnection.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

pets

Small Wonders

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | November 27th, 2006

It used to be that carrying a tiny dog in an expensive handbag was the nearly exclusive behavior of aging society matrons. In recent years, the age of high society has drifted downward at least half a century, as women like Paris Hilton have set off a fashion fury with their constant carrying of diminutive canines such as Hilton's own Tinkerbell, a Chihuahua almost as well-known as the heiress herself.

Toy dogs have never been more popular or more fashionable. Cast as furry accessories in the pages of fashion magazines, the smallest dogs are suddenly the biggest trend in pets.

But there are problems with being a must-have accessory for the fashion-forward, and toy dog expert Darlene Arden is happy to list them. Author of "Small Dogs, Big Hearts: A Guide to Caring for Your Little Dog" and a certified behavior expert specializing in small dogs, Arden is an unabashed fan of tiny canines. But she'd also like to stop people who aren't really thinking things through from getting one this holiday season.

"Small dogs are my passion," said Arden, on the phone from her home in the Boston area. "I've had dogs all my life, but there's something special about the little dogs. They bond in a very different way, and they're totally portable companions. The dog to a certain degree understands he depends on you for protection."

The dependence starts long before you ever bring a little dog home, says Arden. The popularity of small dogs means there are lots of clueless and careless people breeding them. At this time of year, reputable breeders are hard to find, but adorable puppies from large-scale breeders (including those hellholes that animal advocacy groups call "puppy mills") and money-driven backyard breeders are everywhere.

Arden says it's important to find the right toy breed and the right breeder, and that may take time. If you don't proceed with caution, she warns, you may end up with a dog with severe health and temperament problems.

"The problem with toy dogs is that they're so small -- think what they're like inside. Part of what's going on now is because the emphasis is on producing ever-smaller dogs," she says. "'Teacup' is a marketing term coined by commercial breeders and backyard breeders, not by reputable breeders. Getting smaller and smaller dogs is NOT what good breeders strive for."

Even if people do get their dog from a reputable source, they can ruin a little dog's attitude by forgetting that their adorable little pet is indeed a dog.

"People truly confuse these dogs with toys," says Arden, "and that's a huge mistake. I blame fashion editors, who feature celebrities carrying dogs as if they were accessories. But they're not bracelets or purses. Other people turn them into child substitutes to the nth degree, dressing them in frilly dresses and Mary Jane shoes.

"You have to realize a dog is another species. You're not doing the dog a favor if you're treating it as if it were a human child," she says, adding that such indulgence can lead to a pet who's anything but a good companion. "There's nothing worse than Cujo in a small package. Socialization and training are so important, because facial bites are not unusual if you end up with a nasty toy dog.

Arden isn't trying to discourage anyone from adopting a small dog, but she does want people to consider all their options before they buy.

"Do a lot of research," she says. "Figure out which toy breed you want, which fits in with how much grooming you're prepared for, how active you are, and how big your dog should be. Find out which health problems exist in the breed. Then go to a dog show, meet with breeders, and ask them what they're doing to eliminate those health problems. You should be able to get a health guarantee to a reasonable age if you're dealing with a reputable breeder."

If you choose well, says Arden, you'll be rewarded with the companionship of a healthy, well-mannered pet for many years, since many toy dogs outlive their larger relatives. Consider those extra years as your reward for choosing the dog who's right for you, instead of choosing what's trendy at the moment.

SIDEBAR

Resources for those who love little dogs

Darlene Arden had already written one of the best reference books on small dogs ever in 1997. "The Irrepressible Toy Dog" celebrated these diminutive dogs and predicted their climb in popularity.

Arden has had a chance to redo her wonderful reference, revising and updating it completely as the new "Small Dogs, Big Hearts: A Guide to Caring for Your Little Dog" ($20, Howell Book House). The book expands on the first one, including more information on health, behavior and training. A must-have for anyone who has or wants a little dog as a companion.

Q&A

Puppies need Time, training

Q: I am 12 years old, and I have a yellow Labrador named Cali. She's 6 months old. I love her so much, but I have to admit she is a bad dog. She chews many things, and she cannot sit still. Whenever guests come in the door, she jumps all over them. She digs in the back yard and gets dirt all over the carpets.

My mom gets very angry. We had a lot of talks about giving her to my aunt, but I would not let that happen. Please help me! -- D.N., via e-mail

A: Cali's not a bad dog: She's a puppy. Labradors are notorious for being extremely active and often destructive in their youth. But with guidance, most mature into wonderful, easygoing companions.

Your dog needs exercise, training and patience. When you get home from school, play fetch with Cali for at least a half an hour, more if you can. Better still would be two sessions of fetch or other high-energy exercise every single day. Lots of exercise will help with her energy levels, and it will also help with the destructiveness.

Ask your mom if you and Cali can be enrolled in a local dog-training class. You'll also need to restrict Cali's range in the house and yard to limit the destructiveness. Get her some sturdy chew toys (such as a Kong, which can be stuffed with peanut butter) to keep her busy when you cannot be with her or supervise her.

Finally, I have a book that's perfect for you. Kate Eldredge is just a little older than you are, and her book, "Head of the Class: A Teen Dog Expert Teaches You to Raise and Train the Perfect Pal" ($17, Howell Book House), was written with you in mind.

Hang in there! If you keep Cali exercised and stay with her training, things will get better for everyone.

Calming a yapper

Q: We have a 13-year-old Sheltie who's extremely shy and noisy. She barks at strangers and family who come and go. If we have company, she's settled and quiet if everyone is seated and not moving, but if anyone stands or leaves the room, she barks. If we close her in a bedroom, she barks until we let her out.

We're having holiday company over soon. Do you have any suggestions for helping a neurotic herding dog get through the holidays? -- G.S., via e-mail

A: Is this extreme barking a new behavior? Shelties are one of the noisier breeds -- believe me, I know, having had at least one for the last 25 years -- but there are degrees of noisiness, and your dog seems over the top. If the barking has increased recently, I'd wonder if there is not some health issue going on, especially given your dog's age.

If this is long-standing behavior, then I'd get a crate (one with closed sides, not open grating) and get her used to it by feeding her in it with the door open, then the door closed. Get her used to the crate slowly, so she's comfortable in it.

When you have company over, crate her behind a closed bedroom door, with something yummy to chew on, and turn on a radio to muffle noises that trigger barking. It's not ideal, but it ought to get everyone through the day with the least amount of stress.

For a longer-term solution, please ask your veterinarian for a referral to a behaviorist who can help you with this problem. Old dogs can often learn new tricks!

THE SCOOP

Don't delay: Neuter today

Veterinary organizations such as the American Veterinary Medical Association now endorse early spaying and neutering on animals as young as 8 weeks old. Many humane associations and shelters are already doing this to prevent the "kittens out, kittens in" cycle.

At 8 weeks, 8 months or even 8 years, there's no reason to wait -- and a lot of reasons to go forward. Keeping kittens from being parents is the only way to prevent future kittens from dying for the lack of a home. And that's not all -- spaying and neutering offer some real health and behavior benefits for you as a pet owner:

-- Neutered males are less likely to roam and less likely to fight (and thus less likely to have you writing checks to your veterinarian after she patches up your cat). Neutering greatly reduces the problems with urine-spraying and will give your cat a chance at the longest life possible. With all that "catting about," unneutered males are prime candidates for getting run over or picking up deadly contagious diseases through mating or fighting.

-- Spayed females are more attentive and loving because they're not spending all their time looking for mates. Female cats are in heat nearly nonstop until they become pregnant, and they are also at a higher risk for accidental death or contagious disease.

-- Living with a cat looking for a mate can be very trying. They cry. They roll. They rub. They yowl. They spray. It's no fun.

Get your pet fixed. It's the right thing to do.

PET TIP

Winter garden for your cat

Cats love to nibble on plants, especially the tender shoots of new grasses. You can delight your pet by keeping a windowsill garden, sowing a new crop of alfalfa, rye and wheat grasses every couple of weeks. Long, shallow planters are ideal for grasses, and decorative ones can be found inexpensively at any garden or home center.

Your cat may also enjoy pots planted with parsley and thyme, although you may wish to allow these plants to become more established before putting them where your cat can chew on them. The same can be said of catnip and of valerian, another plant that offers mood-altering benefits to some cats.

Unless you want to find these plants uprooted by a very happy cat, you're better off growing them out of reach of your pet and cutting off sprigs for your pet to enjoy.

PET Rx

Rapport, technique key to choosing a vet

Many pet lovers make the mistake of believing veterinarians are pretty much interchangeable. In fact, you're doing your pet a disservice if you don't put a little effort into choosing the right veterinarian.

And once you've found a good one, you need to develop trust and rapport so you're working as a team for your pet's health.

Any veterinarian you consider should be technically proficient, current on the latest treatments, and willing to seek out more information on your pet's behalf or work with a veterinary specialist. A good vet should be able to explain what's going on with your pet in a way you can understand and be willing to answer your questions, so you can make a responsible decision on your pet's behalf.

Ask friends, co-workers and neighbors for recommendations. Over the years, animal lovers can tell which veterinarians are knowledgeable, compassionate and hardworking. Those veterinarians are always talked up by satisfied clients. Other factors may help you narrow down your list of possibilities:

-- Is the clinic or hospital conveniently located, with hours you can live with? If you have a 9-to-5 job, a veterinarian with a 9-to-5 clinic doesn't do your pet much good. Many veterinarians are open late on at least one weeknight and for at least a half-day on Saturday.

-- What kind of emergency care is available, if any? Although emergency veterinary clinics are prepared for any catastrophe, they are not familiar with your pet. If your veterinarian's practice does not offer 24-hour care, does it work with one that does?

-- Do you feel a rapport with this person? Are you comfortable asking questions? Discussing fees?

The final call on whether a particular veterinarian is right for you comes down to intangibles. If you don't feel comfortable, you're less likely to ask your veterinarian questions, and the lack of productive communication hurts your pet in the long run.

PETS BY THE NUMBERS

Pets? No thanks!

Among people who have no desire for a pet, cleaning up after the animals is one of the main reasons for lack of interest. Here are some of the top reasons why people don't want pets (multiple answers allowed):

Don't want to clean up after them 38 percent

No one home during the day 36 percent

Not enough time 33 percent

Shedding 33 percent

Too much responsibility 32 percent

Source: American Pet Products Manufacturers Association

PETS ON THE WEB

Site offers home for all dog books

Want to find the cutting-edge books on dog care and training? Check out Dogwise (www.dogwise.com). Mass-market suppliers of books and pet products generally rely on large or well-connected publishers for a rather limited range of titles that may not reflect the latest thinking in training, dog sports or care and nutrition. Even retailers with large inventories -- such as online giant Amazon -- don't know enough about pets to steer you to the best dog books.

The folks at Dogwise have made it their business to figure out what's new and what's likely to change the way we think about dogs. Dogwise is also careful to stock high-quality titles that won't sell enough to interest a mass retailer, such as a care manual on a rare breed. The Web site is also the place to look for books on working through a specific training problem, such as aggression.

Award-winning writer Gina Spadafori has two new books out, which were co-authored with "Good Morning, America" veterinary correspondent Dr. Marty Becker: "Do Cats Always Land on Their Feet?" and "Why Do Dogs Drink From the Toilet?" She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.petconnection.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

pets

Seasonal Safety

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | November 20th, 2006

Some people seem to have bad luck over the holidays, and I have traditionally been one of them. I've filled the house with smoke from a poorly laid fire in the fireplace just before guests arrived for dinner, and I've tripped over a sleeping dog on Christmas morning and ended up in the emergency room (the dog was fine; I went home with a cast).

But that's nothing compared to the disasters that seem to dog the pets in our family over the years. I've spent good parts of many holidays in after-hours veterinary clinics, and a few times those trips were for problems that could have been prevented.

Fortunately, the better part of two decades -- and most of my writing career -- have passed since my last holiday pet disaster, and I'd like to think it's because I learned a few things along the way. In the interest of helping your holiday season go easier, I'd like to remind you of what to look out for in the weeks to come.

Every year at this time I offer a list of the most common holiday hazards for pets, including foreign-body ingestion and accidental poisoning. The bad news is that many pets will end up at a veterinarian's office this holiday season. The good news is that yours won't be among them if you keep an eye out for these hazards.

The place to start? The Christmas tree. This popular sign of the season is full of hazards for dogs and cats. Tinsel can be an appealing target for play, but if ingested, it can twist up the intestines and may need to be surgically removed. This is a particular danger to cats and kittens, who seem to find tinsel -- along with yarn, ribbon and string -- especially appealing to eat.

Ornaments, too, are deadly in the mouths -- and stomachs -- of pets, and even the water at the base of the tree contains secretions that can at the very least cause a stomachache. Light strings are no good for chewing, and the whole tree can come down on the cat climbing in its branches. Some dogs may even be inclined to break the rules of house-training on a freshly cut tree -- why else, they reason, would anyone bring a tree into the house?

The best way to keep your pets out of tree trouble is by making the tree off-limits unless you're there to supervise. Putting the tree in a room with a door you can close is probably the easiest solution.

And how about holiday greenery? Holiday plants such as mistletoe may look intriguing to your pet, but they're also toxic, as are the bulbs of the amaryllis plant. (Long the poster child for holiday poisoning, the falsely maligned poinsettia can be safely welcomed into the pet lover's home.) Holiday food can be a problem, too (see sidebar).

The best way to keep your pet safe is to look at everything new that's in your house for the holidays and figure out the best way to keep it out of the mouths and paws of your pets.

And just in case the worst should happen, find the number now of the nearest veterinary emergency clinic and know how to get there if you have to.

SIDEBAR

Thanksgiving: Don't share the goodies

We love to share food with our pets, and what better time to do it than on Thanksgiving?

Problem is, foods that are too rich, too fatty or too spicy -- or anything your pet's not accustomed to -- can trigger a bout of intestinal upset. For some animals, the treat can trigger a serious inflammation of the pancreas or intestine, and that means a life-threatening illness.

What to avoid? Anything that you wouldn't eat, your pet should avoid, too. And while a little bit of lean meat -- beef or poultry - can be added to your pet's meal, steer clear of the fatty parts and poultry skin. And no gravy!

While you're waiting for the Thanksgiving feast to begin, don't share the appetizers, either. And as for the sweets in festive holiday bowls? Put them out of reach, so your pets don't help themselves.

Q&A

Tips for ending cat scratching

Q: May I share how I trained our cats to use the scratching post instead of the furniture?

You're right in your recent column: Yelling at the cat and punishing him won't work when it comes to destructive scratching. You have use motivations that mean something to the cat. And you have to teach him where to scratch. Otherwise, how is he to know you want him to scratch the post?

I use the cat's favorite treats, a scratching post, a squirt bottle and some wide, double-sided sticky tape.

The tape goes on the spots where the cat prefers to scratch, and the sticky feel discourages scratching. I begin training by rubbing their paws on the post, so their paw-scent is left on it. I immediately give the cat a treat for having his paws on the post.

Usually it takes only a few tries for the cat to get the message that scratching the post would get food -- a reward all cats understand. My oldest cat still goes through an evening routine where he trots up to the post, scratches it, and looks at me with a "Well, where's my treat?" expression. He also scratches and stares at me when he knows it's dinnertime.

The squirt bottle is for when I catch them scratching elsewhere. One brief squirt is all it takes to convince them to stop. Then I can redirect their attention to scratching the post.

We have three indoor kitties (one is a feral kitten that we took in), and our furniture is still mostly unscathed. Understanding the feline mind really does work! -- K.B., via e-mail

A: Thank you for sharing your tips. They're excellent! I wish more people would understand that reward-based training is really the way to go with cats. Punishment often stresses out the cat more and not only damages the bond with the animal, but often leads to other stress-related behaviors, such as urine-spraying.

Working with a cat's natural tendencies and rewarding him for good behavior is the best way to train these pets.

Potty where?

Q: Until a month ago, we spent weekends in a different home with our dog and cat. In the weekend home, our cat would spend time outside, but he would always come in to use the litter box. At our home, it is just the opposite: He spends time outside but never uses the litter box inside. We provide the same box and same litter. Can you explain this? -- A.H., via e-mail

A: When you are dealing with litter box questions, you have to remember always that cats may seem mysterious in their ways, but their choices are not at all mysterious to them.

Each cat will prefer one kind of area to potty over another. Factors that go into the preference may include box and filler type, location, past illness and so on. Without knowing the complete history of your cat in both houses, and without observing the cat for signs of unhappiness with the box in the weekday home, I'd guess there's a difference that's quite obvious to your cat but not to you.

It could be as simple as this: At the weekday home, there's a potty area outside that's more appealing than the litter box, and at the weekend home, the situation is reversed. For example, there may be a kind of soil in the beds at one home that your cat likes. Or maybe at the home where your cat chooses to use the box, there could be a neighborhood bully-cat who's driving your cat inside.

PET BUY

Paperwork needed for pet purchase

Adding a pet to the family is often referred to as an "adoption," but make no mistake: It's still a business transaction. Whether you're getting a pet from a shelter, rescue group or private breeder, you should come away not only with a new family member but also with a sheaf of paperwork.

At minimum, the rescue group, shelter or seller should provide you with a contract that spells out any guarantees for health and temperament as well as return policies if the animal isn't working out. A basic medical history -- vaccines, wormings, neutering -- should also be included, as should recommendations for future medical care, food and so on. If you're buying a registered animal, make sure you get the forms you need to transfer ownership with such organizations as the American Kennel Club and the Cat Fanciers' Association.

If you do not get all the breed registration paperwork, it can be difficult to track it down later. Some sellers flat-out disappear after a sale, while others will try to charge more for "papers" after you've already taken your pet home. Mind you, any breeder who'd do either is likely not someone you should have been getting a pup or kitten from in the first place. But that won't help you much when you've already fallen in love with your new pet, will it?

If you don't get registration paperwork, the breed registries will try to help with registration matters if you contact them. But in most cases they can't do much, since people rarely have enough information on the breeder or the animal's parents to get the matter cleared up.

PET Rx

Head tilt common in pet rabbits

Head-tilting in rabbits is common and can be caused by a variety of diseases. A common name for head tilt is "wry neck," although the correct medical term is "vestibular disease."

Rabbits with vestibular disease can have a head position that ranges from a few degrees to 180 degrees off the normal position. They can fall over, circle, have difficulties standing and develop eye injuries because the downward-facing eye is in a position of vulnerability. These pets need to see a veterinarian for proper diagnosis of the causes behind the head tilt and then targeted treatment.

For most rabbits with vestibular disease, the vast majority will recover most of their normal head position and lead normal lives, as long as good nursing, veterinary care and time for recovery are provided. Some rabbits, however, will have a lifelong residual head tilt even if the inner ear disease is cured.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

THE SCOOP

Pet choices? Don't rule out the rat

Let go of everything you've ever thought about rats and consider the benefits of these pets with an open mind.

-- Rats are social animals. Many small pets don't like being handled, but rats get used to careful socialization easily and come to enjoy riding in pockets and on shoulders.

-- Rats are smart. Rats respond quickly to food-based training and seem to love to perform tricks.

-- Rats are agile and sturdy. Try to get a guinea pig to run a maze or climb a ladder and you'll appreciate the fleet-footedness of a rat. Unlike mice, rats can stand up to the handling -- and occasionally, the unintentional mishandling -- of well-meaning children.

-- Rats are diverse. Think colors like silver mink, platinum, blue and chocolate, and markings like hooded (the head a different color than the body) or masked.

-- Rats are easy to keep. Get a cage sized for a slightly larger animal, such as a chinchilla or guinea pig, and your rat will be content. Add bedding, a place for the animal to hide and sleep, a food dish and a water bottle, some toys, and you're set. Your rat will happily eat the food manufactured for them and will be even happier if you add fruit, nuts, vegetables and other "people food."

The downside of rats? They don't live all that long -- two to three years -- and they're prone to tumors. And like all rodents, they love to chew and can be destructive if left unsupervised.

Be sure to choose a healthy rat from a reputable source. As with all pets, good sanitation practices are a must, especially hand-washing after handling the animals. A calm, well-socialized rat isn't likely to bite, but any nips that do happen should be discussed with the family doctor, especially when children are involved.

PETS BY THE NUMBERS

Why keep a cat?

Companionship is the No. 1 reason why cats are so popular, according to a survey by the American Pet Products Manufacturers Association. Here are the top responses given (multiple answers allowed):

Companionship 90 percent

Fun to watch 73 percent

Relieves stress 62 percent

Like family member 60 percent

Easy to maintain 57 percent

Pest control 51 percent

PET TIP

Different cats, different boxes

Tailor the litter box to your cat's size, age and preferences, and you'll be more likely to get your cat to use it consistently. For example, a big cat needs a big litter box, and a cat who isn't good at squatting may need one with higher sides to keep the mess in the box.

Be creative when choosing boxes. While any good pet-supply store will offer plenty of choices, you're not limited to shopping there. Plastic sweater boxes with the lids off provide a roomier box, and retired baking pans are small and shallow enough to make a kitten feel comfortable.

The problems of age may factor in, too. Young kittens and old cats may have problems getting over the high sides of a big litter box. Make things easier for them -- and ultimately, for you -- by cutting down one side to serve as an easy entrance.

Award-winning writer Gina Spadafori has two new books out, which were co-authored with "Good Morning, America" veterinary correspondent Dr. Marty Becker: "Do Cats Always Land on Their Feet?" and "Why Do Dogs Drink From the Toilet?" She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.petconnection.com.

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