pets

Seasonal Safety

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | November 20th, 2006

Some people seem to have bad luck over the holidays, and I have traditionally been one of them. I've filled the house with smoke from a poorly laid fire in the fireplace just before guests arrived for dinner, and I've tripped over a sleeping dog on Christmas morning and ended up in the emergency room (the dog was fine; I went home with a cast).

But that's nothing compared to the disasters that seem to dog the pets in our family over the years. I've spent good parts of many holidays in after-hours veterinary clinics, and a few times those trips were for problems that could have been prevented.

Fortunately, the better part of two decades -- and most of my writing career -- have passed since my last holiday pet disaster, and I'd like to think it's because I learned a few things along the way. In the interest of helping your holiday season go easier, I'd like to remind you of what to look out for in the weeks to come.

Every year at this time I offer a list of the most common holiday hazards for pets, including foreign-body ingestion and accidental poisoning. The bad news is that many pets will end up at a veterinarian's office this holiday season. The good news is that yours won't be among them if you keep an eye out for these hazards.

The place to start? The Christmas tree. This popular sign of the season is full of hazards for dogs and cats. Tinsel can be an appealing target for play, but if ingested, it can twist up the intestines and may need to be surgically removed. This is a particular danger to cats and kittens, who seem to find tinsel -- along with yarn, ribbon and string -- especially appealing to eat.

Ornaments, too, are deadly in the mouths -- and stomachs -- of pets, and even the water at the base of the tree contains secretions that can at the very least cause a stomachache. Light strings are no good for chewing, and the whole tree can come down on the cat climbing in its branches. Some dogs may even be inclined to break the rules of house-training on a freshly cut tree -- why else, they reason, would anyone bring a tree into the house?

The best way to keep your pets out of tree trouble is by making the tree off-limits unless you're there to supervise. Putting the tree in a room with a door you can close is probably the easiest solution.

And how about holiday greenery? Holiday plants such as mistletoe may look intriguing to your pet, but they're also toxic, as are the bulbs of the amaryllis plant. (Long the poster child for holiday poisoning, the falsely maligned poinsettia can be safely welcomed into the pet lover's home.) Holiday food can be a problem, too (see sidebar).

The best way to keep your pet safe is to look at everything new that's in your house for the holidays and figure out the best way to keep it out of the mouths and paws of your pets.

And just in case the worst should happen, find the number now of the nearest veterinary emergency clinic and know how to get there if you have to.

SIDEBAR

Thanksgiving: Don't share the goodies

We love to share food with our pets, and what better time to do it than on Thanksgiving?

Problem is, foods that are too rich, too fatty or too spicy -- or anything your pet's not accustomed to -- can trigger a bout of intestinal upset. For some animals, the treat can trigger a serious inflammation of the pancreas or intestine, and that means a life-threatening illness.

What to avoid? Anything that you wouldn't eat, your pet should avoid, too. And while a little bit of lean meat -- beef or poultry - can be added to your pet's meal, steer clear of the fatty parts and poultry skin. And no gravy!

While you're waiting for the Thanksgiving feast to begin, don't share the appetizers, either. And as for the sweets in festive holiday bowls? Put them out of reach, so your pets don't help themselves.

Q&A

Tips for ending cat scratching

Q: May I share how I trained our cats to use the scratching post instead of the furniture?

You're right in your recent column: Yelling at the cat and punishing him won't work when it comes to destructive scratching. You have use motivations that mean something to the cat. And you have to teach him where to scratch. Otherwise, how is he to know you want him to scratch the post?

I use the cat's favorite treats, a scratching post, a squirt bottle and some wide, double-sided sticky tape.

The tape goes on the spots where the cat prefers to scratch, and the sticky feel discourages scratching. I begin training by rubbing their paws on the post, so their paw-scent is left on it. I immediately give the cat a treat for having his paws on the post.

Usually it takes only a few tries for the cat to get the message that scratching the post would get food -- a reward all cats understand. My oldest cat still goes through an evening routine where he trots up to the post, scratches it, and looks at me with a "Well, where's my treat?" expression. He also scratches and stares at me when he knows it's dinnertime.

The squirt bottle is for when I catch them scratching elsewhere. One brief squirt is all it takes to convince them to stop. Then I can redirect their attention to scratching the post.

We have three indoor kitties (one is a feral kitten that we took in), and our furniture is still mostly unscathed. Understanding the feline mind really does work! -- K.B., via e-mail

A: Thank you for sharing your tips. They're excellent! I wish more people would understand that reward-based training is really the way to go with cats. Punishment often stresses out the cat more and not only damages the bond with the animal, but often leads to other stress-related behaviors, such as urine-spraying.

Working with a cat's natural tendencies and rewarding him for good behavior is the best way to train these pets.

Potty where?

Q: Until a month ago, we spent weekends in a different home with our dog and cat. In the weekend home, our cat would spend time outside, but he would always come in to use the litter box. At our home, it is just the opposite: He spends time outside but never uses the litter box inside. We provide the same box and same litter. Can you explain this? -- A.H., via e-mail

A: When you are dealing with litter box questions, you have to remember always that cats may seem mysterious in their ways, but their choices are not at all mysterious to them.

Each cat will prefer one kind of area to potty over another. Factors that go into the preference may include box and filler type, location, past illness and so on. Without knowing the complete history of your cat in both houses, and without observing the cat for signs of unhappiness with the box in the weekday home, I'd guess there's a difference that's quite obvious to your cat but not to you.

It could be as simple as this: At the weekday home, there's a potty area outside that's more appealing than the litter box, and at the weekend home, the situation is reversed. For example, there may be a kind of soil in the beds at one home that your cat likes. Or maybe at the home where your cat chooses to use the box, there could be a neighborhood bully-cat who's driving your cat inside.

PET BUY

Paperwork needed for pet purchase

Adding a pet to the family is often referred to as an "adoption," but make no mistake: It's still a business transaction. Whether you're getting a pet from a shelter, rescue group or private breeder, you should come away not only with a new family member but also with a sheaf of paperwork.

At minimum, the rescue group, shelter or seller should provide you with a contract that spells out any guarantees for health and temperament as well as return policies if the animal isn't working out. A basic medical history -- vaccines, wormings, neutering -- should also be included, as should recommendations for future medical care, food and so on. If you're buying a registered animal, make sure you get the forms you need to transfer ownership with such organizations as the American Kennel Club and the Cat Fanciers' Association.

If you do not get all the breed registration paperwork, it can be difficult to track it down later. Some sellers flat-out disappear after a sale, while others will try to charge more for "papers" after you've already taken your pet home. Mind you, any breeder who'd do either is likely not someone you should have been getting a pup or kitten from in the first place. But that won't help you much when you've already fallen in love with your new pet, will it?

If you don't get registration paperwork, the breed registries will try to help with registration matters if you contact them. But in most cases they can't do much, since people rarely have enough information on the breeder or the animal's parents to get the matter cleared up.

PET Rx

Head tilt common in pet rabbits

Head-tilting in rabbits is common and can be caused by a variety of diseases. A common name for head tilt is "wry neck," although the correct medical term is "vestibular disease."

Rabbits with vestibular disease can have a head position that ranges from a few degrees to 180 degrees off the normal position. They can fall over, circle, have difficulties standing and develop eye injuries because the downward-facing eye is in a position of vulnerability. These pets need to see a veterinarian for proper diagnosis of the causes behind the head tilt and then targeted treatment.

For most rabbits with vestibular disease, the vast majority will recover most of their normal head position and lead normal lives, as long as good nursing, veterinary care and time for recovery are provided. Some rabbits, however, will have a lifelong residual head tilt even if the inner ear disease is cured.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

THE SCOOP

Pet choices? Don't rule out the rat

Let go of everything you've ever thought about rats and consider the benefits of these pets with an open mind.

-- Rats are social animals. Many small pets don't like being handled, but rats get used to careful socialization easily and come to enjoy riding in pockets and on shoulders.

-- Rats are smart. Rats respond quickly to food-based training and seem to love to perform tricks.

-- Rats are agile and sturdy. Try to get a guinea pig to run a maze or climb a ladder and you'll appreciate the fleet-footedness of a rat. Unlike mice, rats can stand up to the handling -- and occasionally, the unintentional mishandling -- of well-meaning children.

-- Rats are diverse. Think colors like silver mink, platinum, blue and chocolate, and markings like hooded (the head a different color than the body) or masked.

-- Rats are easy to keep. Get a cage sized for a slightly larger animal, such as a chinchilla or guinea pig, and your rat will be content. Add bedding, a place for the animal to hide and sleep, a food dish and a water bottle, some toys, and you're set. Your rat will happily eat the food manufactured for them and will be even happier if you add fruit, nuts, vegetables and other "people food."

The downside of rats? They don't live all that long -- two to three years -- and they're prone to tumors. And like all rodents, they love to chew and can be destructive if left unsupervised.

Be sure to choose a healthy rat from a reputable source. As with all pets, good sanitation practices are a must, especially hand-washing after handling the animals. A calm, well-socialized rat isn't likely to bite, but any nips that do happen should be discussed with the family doctor, especially when children are involved.

PETS BY THE NUMBERS

Why keep a cat?

Companionship is the No. 1 reason why cats are so popular, according to a survey by the American Pet Products Manufacturers Association. Here are the top responses given (multiple answers allowed):

Companionship 90 percent

Fun to watch 73 percent

Relieves stress 62 percent

Like family member 60 percent

Easy to maintain 57 percent

Pest control 51 percent

PET TIP

Different cats, different boxes

Tailor the litter box to your cat's size, age and preferences, and you'll be more likely to get your cat to use it consistently. For example, a big cat needs a big litter box, and a cat who isn't good at squatting may need one with higher sides to keep the mess in the box.

Be creative when choosing boxes. While any good pet-supply store will offer plenty of choices, you're not limited to shopping there. Plastic sweater boxes with the lids off provide a roomier box, and retired baking pans are small and shallow enough to make a kitten feel comfortable.

The problems of age may factor in, too. Young kittens and old cats may have problems getting over the high sides of a big litter box. Make things easier for them -- and ultimately, for you -- by cutting down one side to serve as an easy entrance.

Award-winning writer Gina Spadafori has two new books out, which were co-authored with "Good Morning, America" veterinary correspondent Dr. Marty Becker: "Do Cats Always Land on Their Feet?" and "Why Do Dogs Drink From the Toilet?" She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.petconnection.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

pets

Don't Fence Me In

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | November 13th, 2006

When it comes to rules and laws, I'm not much of a risk taker. I'm not a speeder or a tax cheat, and when young, I never was tempted to get a fake ID.

But I am a chronic law breaker when it comes to exercising my dogs, and oh, do I wish I didn't have to be. In this, I'm not alone: A massive underground of determined dog lovers trades information on places to run our dogs off-leash with the least chance of being ticketed.

Believe me, we'd rather be legit -- so give us legal opportunities for off-leash recreation. Not just tiny fenced areas so overused the grass won't grow, but places where we can walk with our dogs and have them swim and fetch. The exercise is good for both us and our dogs, and it makes our dogs healthier and better behaved.

Although my community is slow to embrace the concept of open off-leash recreation areas, others in the region are not. Sometimes I will drive more than an hour for the privilege of visiting areas like the fabulous Point Isabel off-leash recreation area in Richmond, Calif.

Point Isabel is popular with responsible pet lovers who play by the rules and govern by peer pressure. Leave a pet mess behind? Prepare to be yelled at. Dog untrained? Prepare to be lectured. People who use areas like Point Isabel aren't about to lose them because of clueless dog owners and their ill-mannered pets.

I'd choose a dedicated off-leash open area to run my dogs in anytime. But I can't always drive out of town, so I also drive to local places where my retrievers can swim. I go at odd hours, my dogs are friendly, trained and well-socialized, and yes, I clean up after them.

Why should we dog lovers have to skulk around like this? In terms of sheer numbers, we are a larger population than tennis, soccer or softball players, all groups whose needs are recognized and addressed by those who plan public recreation facilities. Our dogs are our chosen form of recreation, and we deserve open space as much as any other group.

Exercise is one of the most important -- and least-recognized -- components of dog care, especially for large dogs. Destructive and anti-social behaviors find their roots in boredom and unspent nervous energy. How many dogs would be spared a trip to the shelter if only they had a place to be socialized and exercised on a regular basis?

Medical issues matter, too, with veterinarians reporting obesity as rampant in pets as it is in humans -- and with many of the same sad results when it comes to health and quality of life.

Off-leash recreation areas work, and they're just as good for dog haters as dog lovers. If the recreational needs of dog lovers are covered, it's perfectly fair to crack down on them elsewhere. Steep fines for off-leash dogs are justified in areas of high human use, just as long as there are alternatives elsewhere for off-leash play.

I don't like being a criminal, and I wouldn't be if my legitimate needs as a dog lover were recognized. If you feel the same way, let your elected officials know about it. Every community is capable of putting aside some open space for off-leash recreation. Don't feel like writing a letter? Clip this column and send it to the decision makers in your community. Your dogs will thank you, and so will mine.

SIDEBAR

Off-leash recreation that works

The Point Isabel Regional Shoreline Park has been open to off-leash recreation since 1987. The Point Isabel Dog Owners (PIDO) group works to keep the 21-acre site functioning smoothly for the people and dogs who use it -- an estimated 800,000 visits every year, with relatively few problems.

Point Isabel also has a retail store that offers pet supplies and dog-washing (Mudpuppy's). For people, there's a dining facility with snacks and light food and drinks (the Sit-and-Stay Cafe).

For more information, visit the PIDO Web site (www.pido.org).

Q&A

Vet closest to 'miracle'

Q: I have a fairly new dog that started having seizures for the last year. He is about 2 years old. I absolutely adore this dog, and I'm afraid that I will lose him. I'm treating him with the usual medication and an enzyme vitamin. Have you heard of any miracle cures? I would appreciate any advice you may have. -- D.P., via e-mail

A: Seizures are among the most frightening things anyone can witness in a pet or other loved one, and the feelings of helplessness and fear that go with them can likewise be devastating. As tempting as it is to reach out for "miracle cures," however, your best bet when it comes to helping your dog is to find a competent and caring veterinarian to help diagnose what's causing the seizures and what medications will best treat the disease.

In chasing "miracles cures" on the Internet, you are wasting time while putting your pet's health in jeopardy. Not to mention, many of those who offer what seem to be miracles are truly interested only in the miracle of your money magically appearing in their bank accounts.

If you do not think your veterinarian is helping with the problem, then by all means ask for a second opinion or get a referral to a specialist. But before you do, ask yourself if you're truly giving your veterinarian permission to use what he or she needs to accurately treat the illness. Are there diagnostic tests you've turned down, or re-check visits you've passed up? When it comes to chronic conditions, diagnostics and re-checks can be vitally important.

You and your veterinarian need to be partners in your pet's care. Make sure your veterinarian is someone you like and respect, so you will be more inclined to work together on your pet's behalf.

As we used to say when I was running the Pet Care Forum on America Online: Get off the 'Net and call your vet. Modern medicine is miraculous in many ways, but only if you're working with a good veterinarian who can help you.

Dog won't listen

Q: I feel like "wait until your father gets home" with our dog. She won't mind me at all, but she hangs on my husband's every word. I feed her, and I took her to obedience class. Why won't she mind me? -- G.W., via e-mail

A: It could be your tone of voice. A deep voice gets respect. That's true with people, and that's true with dogs.

"Most men have deeper voices than do most women," says dog trainer and award-winning author Liz Palika, who notes that canine mothers use a deep growl when correcting bad behavior in their young puppies.

Most women start out with higher-pitched voices than most men have, and when women get frustrated or angry, their pitch goes even higher. "In verbal canine language, a high-pitched voice means either play or hurt," says Palika. "Neither of these conveys authority."

Palika says women can learn to speak so their dogs will respect them. "A deep sound, such as 'acckk' or 'err-err' -- think of Tim Allen in 'Home Improvement' saying 'power tools' and 'err-err' -- is all that's needed," she says. "The sound gets the dog's attention and then other training tools and techniques do the teaching."

If you're still not getting anywhere, ask a good dog trainer to help you. Despite the fact that men seem to have an edge when it comes to getting a dog's respect, most dog trainers these days are women! Male or female, a good dog trainer will help you project the right body language and tone to get your dog's attention and respect.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET TIP

Keep hounds from howling

Howling is fun. It's like group singing or picking up the microphone at a canine karaoke machine. It's a way for dogs scattered across a few miles and separated by fences to get in touch with their inner wolf and be part of something bigger ... a pack!

It used to be thought that sirens hurt the sensitive ears of dogs and that howling was a protest of pain. But now it's thought to be an instinctive group behavior. The right noise -- a siren, or even the right notes on a viola -- will get a dog lifting his nose to the sky, and once the woo-wooing/wow-wowing starts, other dogs just can't help but join in.

Some breeds are more prone to howling than others. The wolfish Northern breeds seem to take to it naturally, as do hounds such as beagles and bassets, with their distinctive baying.

Of course, no matter how much fun your dog is having, the howl-fests aren't winning you any fans with your neighbors, so when the woo-wooing starts, hush your puppy.

PET BUY

Glowing is good for your dog, too

If you walk or run after dark, you're probably aware that it's a good idea to wear some sort of reflective garb so drivers can see you and avoid you. But do you realize your dog needs protection, too?

If you're wearing reflective gear and your pet is not, a driver might see you but not notice your canine companion. That's why it's a good idea to have safety gear on your dog, too.

Many pet-supply stores and catalogs offer reflective collars, leashes and vests. If you can't find anything suitable, RuffWear is one of several companies offering safety vests for dogs. Its Lighted Lab Coat with "glow-in-the-park" features has a suggested retail price of $60 (www.ruffwear.com or 888-783-3932).

PET TIP

Cats eye a marvel of adaptation

If cats wore sunglasses or didn't evolve into creatures who have the nighttime munchies, they probably would have round pupils like ours.

But they're nocturnal hunters who can see well in very dim light. Just as we adjust our headlights from normal headlights to brights, cats' eyes adjust to different lighting conditions. In the daytime, cats have precise control over the amount of light reaching their eyes. This enables them to gaze out the window and zero in on that squirrel in the tree or a bird on the feeder.

Having eyes that reduce the pupils to slits rather than tiny circles gives cats greater and more accurate control in different types of lighting; this ability is particularly important in bright sunlight.

Vertical slits also have another advantage over horizontal slits. Because a cat's eyelids close at right angles to the vertical pupil, a cat can reduce the amount of light even further by bringing her eyelids closer and closer together. This combination of the vertical slits of the pupils and the horizontal slits of the eyelids enables the cat to make the most delicate adjustments to accommodate different lighting. And these actions, in combination, protect the eyes better than sunglasses.

It's a perfect setup for a nighttime hunter who loves to bask in the daytime sun.

This adaptation sets the domestic cat apart from her majestic relative, the lion. Because the lion hunts by day, her pupils do not have the same sensitivity to light as the domestic cat. The lion's eyes contract -- as ours do -- to tiny circles, not vertical slits.

PETS BY THE NUMBERS

Leaping lizards

Reptiles and amphibians are generally quiet pets, and that's one of the top reasons people cite for keeping them. Here are a few of the top reasons (multiple answers allowed):

Fun to watch 75 percent

Companionship 60 percent

Quiet 56 percent

Conversation piece 56 percent

Educational 44 percent

Source: American Pet Products Manufacturers Association

PET BOOKS

Great reads in tales of pets

Allan Zullo and Mara Bovsun have made a career out of collecting interesting news stories and assembling them into equally interesting little books. The pair have three such offerings on pet themes: "Amazing But True Bird Tales," "Mews Items: Strange But True Cat Tales" and "Dogmania: Amazing But True Canine Tales" (each is $10 from Andrews McMeel Publishing).

I picked up the trio of pet books recently and found they're perfect for when you just want a little something light to read -- in my case, they're ideal for picking up for a few minutes just before I fall asleep. Each item is interesting enough to make you glad you opened one of the books, but not so long as to keep you from getting other things done, like napping. They're great little gift books for any pet lover, too.

Award-winning writer Gina Spadafori has two new books out, which were co-authored with "Good Morning, America" veterinary correspondent Dr. Marty Becker: "Do Cats Always Land on Their Feet?" and "Why Do Dogs Drink From the Toilet?" She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.petconnection.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

pets

Great Cages

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | November 6th, 2006

No purchase is more important when you get a parrot than the cage.

The cage is where your parrot will spend time when you're not home, when the family is sleeping, or when you can't pay attention to your pet.

The first rule of caging: Buy the biggest cage you can afford. Forget the generic categorizations you'll find in pet stores. Those descriptions represent the minimum size to consider -- a better bet is at least one size bigger. For a cockatiel, get a cage for a small parrot. The bigger, the better, always, as long as the bar spacing isn't so big that your pet could escape.

Dimensions are important, too. Tall and narrow cages may look nice, but they force birds to fly more like a helicopter than in the style that comes naturally for them. Parrots like to fly horizontally as well as climb up and down in their cages, so a cage should be wide enough to accommodate both activities.

Metal is generally the best material for a cage. Wood is too hard to clean and usually won't stand up to the abuse parrots can give out, and some manufacturers are experimenting with acrylics. But while these components can make attractive housing for your pet, they may not offer enough social interaction to keep a bird happy.

With so many cages available, how can you be sure you're buying one of high quality? Here are a few points to consider.

-- Design. You want a cage to be attractive, but even more important, it should be workable for you and your bird. Look for features such as a birdproof latch; dishes that are easy to move, remove and clean; and a droppings tray that takes standard-sized newspapers. Make sure you can easily reach in and make contact with your bird, wherever your pet may be within the cage.

Mess-catchers can be helpful, too. They look like an inverted metal skirt around the base of the cage. The best position for the slide-out droppings tray at the bottom of the cage is under a grid so your bird can't get to it. High-impact, durable plastic or metal is a good choice for a droppings tray. No matter what the material, the tray ought to slide out smoothly and be easy to clean.

-- Sturdiness. You're going to have your bird and the cage for a very long time, so you need to make sure the construction is solid. Check seams, welds and places where wires and corners meet. Is everything smooth and sturdy, with nothing for a bird to chip off and chew? Beware chipping or flaking paint, or welds that can be broken off and swallowed.

Used cages can be a real value, if well-made to begin with. Look for wear and rust. And before introducing your bird to any cage that another bird has used, scrub thoroughly, disinfect with a bleach/water solution, rinse completely, and allow to air-dry.

-- Convenience. A cage stand is great, especially with cages designed for smaller parrots. You and your bird are likely to appreciate having the cage off the ground -- in your case, for ease of access; for your bird's, visual perspective. Some stands come with shelves, which are handy for storing newspapers, food and other supplies. Casters are a blessing, too, because you can easily move the cage and stand out from the wall to clean behind it.

Take your time and shop carefully. Many parrot species live for decades, so you'll want the best cage you can manage since you and your bird will be enjoying it for a very long time indeed.

SIDEBAR

Don't forget gear to go

No matter what cage you end up with, you'll also need a carrier for safe transport of your pet parrot. Choose one made of high-impact plastic with vents on the side and a grid door on the front or top. These are marketed for cats and small dogs, but they're just as helpful for transporting birds.

Sturdy carriers are important for reasons beyond trips to the veterinarian. In times of disaster, a carrier allows you to evacuate with your pet safely and keep him contained until conditions improve.

Q&A

Dalmatian gets a 'hyper' rap

Q: I've always liked the looks of Dalmatians, but the ones I meet seem so hyper! Are they good family pets? -- W.D., via e-mail

A: For an active family with time to train and exercise an active breed, a well-bred Dalmatian can be an excellent companion. If the breed's a bad fit for your family -- or if you get a dog from a source that doesn't breed for good health and temperament -- you're in for trouble.

Remember that every breed is perfect for someone, and no breed is perfect for everyone. Even a well-bred Dalmatian is going to be too high-energy for many homes. These dogs were developed to run with carriages for hours, so it's no surprise they're going to be very unhappy without exercise. (On the plus side: They're great companions for runners.) Unhappy high-energy dogs dig, bark, chew and generally drive their owners crazy.

Dalmatians also have a high potential for deafness and other health problems if the pup comes from a source looking to capitalize on the breed's popularity, which rises every time the Dalmatian gets another burst of movie-related publicity. The Dalmatian is indeed a breed to investigate thoroughly before adopting -- but honestly, aren't they all?

For more information, visit the Web site of the Dalmatian Club of America (www.thedca.org).

Hush, birdy

Q: My sister-in-law has an extremely loud pet bird. I don't know what kind he is, but he has a bright yellow-orange body with green wings. She is going to move in with us while she finishes grad school. Ours is a quiet home, and I'm dreading this horrid bird being in the house.

Any ideas? Don't say get rid of the bird. My wife won't do it, and she says it's only for a year. She and her sister are very close, and she's determined to help her. I'm the odd man out. -- P.R., via e-mail.

A: From your description, I'm guessing your sister-in-law has a sun conure. They're beautiful, affectionate and playful, but it's true that they're among the noisiest of all parrot species commonly kept as pets. If they weren't so overwhelmingly beautiful, chances are they wouldn't be popular at all -- that's how loud they can be.

To a certain extent, you're just going to have to live with the din and tell yourself it's just a year. Covering the cage or turning out the lights at night will keep the bird quiet while you're trying to sleep. Your sister-in-law should also be careful that she doesn't reward the noise with either positive (picking up the bird or giving it a treat) or negative (punishing the bird) reinforcement.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

THE SCOOP

Sleeping dogs likely dreaming

When your dog is whining and running in his sleep, is he dreaming? Chances are good that he is.

Dogs definitely remember things, so it makes sense to believe they have the ability to dream, just as people do. After all, dreaming is a normal part of organizing and reorganizing memories.

Like humans, dogs have two kinds of sleep. The deeper kind is characterized by rapid eye movements, so it's known as REM sleep. We know humans dream during REM sleep. We also know the whining, heavy breathing, twitching and leg movements we've all seen in our dogs occurs during canine REM sleep. So it's not far-fetched to believe dogs are dreaming, too.

We may never know for sure exactly what they're dreaming of, but any guess that involves food is a good one.

PETS ON THE WEB

Crazy cat images flood the Internet

It's amazing how popular the seemingly endless variations of cat-picture Web sites are. There's Stuffonmycat.com, where people post images of ... well, stuff on their cats, everything from magazines to empty beer cans to fruit salad. Why? Why not?

Once you get bored with that, you can cruise over to Catsinsinks.com, where you can click on countless pictures matching the theme. The site notes that basins are OK, too, just as long as a cat is in it.

My favorite of these sites is Kittenwars.com, a sort of "hot or not" competition for the feline set. Visit the site, and you'll see two cats. Pick the one you think's the cutest, and you'll immediately be told how many people agreed with you and be offered another pair from which to choose. Top winners of all time are listed as well.

None of these sites will do much for your productivity, but they're entertaining and surprisingly addictive ways to kill a little time.

PET Rx

Fat cat? Ask your vet for guidance

Too much food and too little exercise is doing to our pets exactly what it's doing to us -- making them fat. And with cats, just as with as humans, obesity all too often leads to diabetes, joint diseases, heart problems, increased risk of cancer, and other serious health and behavioral issues.

Weight loss is important, but a crash diet for a cat can be deadly. If overweight cats lose weight too quickly, they can develop a serious liver disorder that can be challenging to treat and is occasionally fatal. It's called hepatic lipidosis, or fatty liver disease.

Hepatic lipidosis isn't just a problem with dieting cats, either. It's also a problem with sick cats who cannot or will not eat. And it can rear its fatty head when people switch cat foods and think, "If the cat gets hungry enough, she'll eat." A cat can and will starve herself into this potentially fatal condition.

To be safe, cats should lose weight gradually, no more than 1 percent of their body weight per week. The goal is to drop the excess over a period of five or six months.

The best approach to weight loss in cats is a combination of moderate calorie restriction -- ask your veterinarian for dietary guidance -- and increased exercise. Try throwing a mouse-shaped toy or playing with a fishing pole-type toy -- anything to get your cat up and moving.

PETS BY THE NUMBERS

Dog-care gear popular

Keeping a dog well-groomed is as much about health as appearance. Fortunately, most dog lovers purchase the basic equipment for the care and grooming needs of their pets. What they own (multiple answers allowed):

Brush 92 percent

Nail clipper 69 percent

Comb 44 percent

Toothbrush 28 percent

Electric clippers 19 percent

Source: American Pet Products Manufacturers Association

PET TIP

Figuring out a cat's age

Here's a rough way to figure a cat's age in human terms: Count the first year of a cat's life as being comparable to the time a human reaches the early stages of adulthood -- the age of 15 or so. The second year of a cat's life picks up some of that maturity and takes a cat to the first stages of full adulthood in humans -- a 2-year-old cat is roughly equivalent to a person in his mid-20s.

From there, a "5 equals 1" rule works pretty well. A cat of 3 is still young, comparable to a person of 29. A 6-year-old cat, similar to a 41-year-old person, is middle-aged. And a 12-year-old cat, similar to a 65-year-old person, has earned the right to slow down a little. A cat who lives to be 20 is the feline equivalent of nearly 100 in terms of human lifespan.

Award-winning writer Gina Spadafori has two new books out, which were co-authored with "Good Morning, America" veterinary correspondent Dr. Marty Becker: "Do Cats Always Land on Their Feet?" and "Why Do Dogs Drink From the Toilet?" She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.petconnection.com.

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