pets

Bite Prevention

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | October 9th, 2006

Every year in the fall, I devote space to one of my highest priorities as a pet-care columnist: preventing dog bites, especially attacks on children.

Many people imagine that the biggest threat to their child's safety is an attack by some vicious neighborhood dog and that the risk increases when children start walking to school in the fall. And while it's true those random attacks do happen (and are all over the news when they do), the fact remains that in most cases, children are bitten by dogs they know, animals belonging to family or friends.

Much of the risk to children presented by a family dog can be minimized by making sure an animal is just that -- a member of the family, an indoor dog both trained and socialized. The most common description of a dog involved in an attack: young, unneutered and socially isolated, often kept on a chain.

Reversing those risk factors -- with the help of a trainer or behaviorist, in some cases -- won't make your dog absolutely safe (any dog may bite), but it will go a long way toward creating a safer family pet.

If you've taken steps to make your family dog as safe as possible, the next step in bite prevention is to teach your child what to do if encountering a potentially hostile dog on the street. This is especially important because our instincts, when faced with a threatening loose dog, could not be more deadly. We want to scream and run, which may trigger predatory behavior in a dog.

The Humane Society of the United States suggests teaching your children how to behave around strange dogs and how to react if attacked. Be sure your children know the following:

-- Never approach a loose dog, even if he seems friendly. Dogs confined in yards -- especially those on chains -- should also be avoided. If the dog is with his owner, children should always ask permission before petting the animal and then begin by offering the back of the hand for a sniff. Pat the dog on the neck or chest. The dog may interpret a pat from above as a dominant gesture. Teach your children to avoid fast or jerky movements.

-- "Be a tree" when a dog approaches, standing straight with feet together, fists under the neck and elbows into the chest. Teach your children to make no eye contact: Some dogs view this as a challenge. Running is a normal response to danger, but it's the worst possible response to a dog because it triggers the animal's instinct to chase and bite. Many dogs just sniff and leave. Teach your children to stay still until the animal walks away, and then back away slowly out of the area.

-- "Feed" the dog a jacket or backpack if attacked, or use a bike to block the dog. These strategies may keep an attacking dog's teeth from connecting with flesh.

-- Act like a log if knocked down -- face down, legs together, curled into a ball, with fists covering the back of the neck and forearms over the ears. This position protects vital areas and can keep an attack from turning fatal.

Role-play these lessons with your child until they are ingrained. Dealing with the dangers in your own yard and teaching your children how to cope may spare your child a bite -- and may even save a life.

SIDEBAR

Friendly pet? Choose a different sign

Many people use "Beware of Dog" signs to keep people out of their yards or protect their friendly pets. But these signs may not be your best friend. In fact, if your dog does happen to hurt someone -- even knocking someone down in a friendly greeting -- it may be argued that you knew your dog was dangerous with the posting of the sign.

A better option? A "Keep Gate Closed" sign may do the trick, but even better are the "Dog/Dogs in Yard" signs from The Original Pet Postings company (www.bigdoorproducts.com or 877-995-3667). The signs are $17, including shipping and mounting hardware, available in three different color combinations.

I like such signs -- and recommend them often -- because they can help keep both people and pets safe, while giving a potential intruder reason enough to move on.

Q&A

Can milk make a cat sick?

Q: Is it my imagination, or is my cat allergic to milk? It seems to give her the "runs," to judge by the litter box. I thought milk was good for cats. Please advise. -- W.T., via e-mail

A: Some cats -- like some people -- can't tolerate milk products, and for these animals, a saucer of milk means gastric upset.

In the wild, kittens never drink milk after they're weaned (and never drink cow's milk at all), and domestic cats have no need to either. The inability to digest milk usually starts at about the age of 12 weeks.

For those cats who can tolerate milk, it's fine to offer it as an occasional treat. Milk is a good source of protein and other nutrients for those cats who don't find it upsets their tummy. But if you never give milk to your cat, she's not missing anything important, and for your cat, that's probably good news.

Hairball help

Q: I've had it with hairballs, especially with cleaning them up or stepping in them. I am sick of the sounds of my cat retching. What can I do? -- S.O., via e-mail

A: You'll have to tolerate a certain amount of hairballs, because that's just part of having a cat. But there are steps you can take to help ingested hair to go through the system instead of come back up.

A great alternative to commercial hairball remedies is canned pumpkin. Regularly adding a teaspoon or so to your cat's diet is a safe, inexpensive way to deal with hairballs. If your cat won't eat the stuff undoctored, try mixing it into canned cat food or with the juice from water-packed tuna. Hairball-remedy cat foods also add fiber.

Commercial hairball products are fine, too, if used as directed. But know that overuse of oil-based hairball remedies can interfere with your cat's absorption of some important nutrients, such as fat-soluble vitamins A, D, E and K.

Talk to your veterinarian about your cat's hairball problems, and discuss home remedies, diets and over-the-counter products. If you're sent home with something from the vet, be sure to follow directions and not overdo any medication. Ask follow-up questions of your veterinarian if you have them.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET Rx

Nicotine danger to curious pets

Everyone knows the surgeon general's warning about cigarette smoking, but what about cigarette eating? Nicotine poisoning is a real concern anywhere a pet may find cigarettes, cigarette butts, chewing tobacco, or even nicotine gum or patches.

The toxic dose for nicotine in pets is 20 milligrams to 100 milligrams. A cigarette contains 9 milligrams to 30 milligrams of nicotine, depending on the type of cigarette, and a cigarette butt contains about 25 percent of the nicotine of the original cigarette, despite its deceptively small amount of tobacco. (Smoking seems to concentrate some of the nicotine in the tail end of the cigarette.) Cigars can contain up to 40 milligrams. Smoking a cigarette yields only 0.5 milligrams to 2 milligrams of nicotine. But eating one is a different ball game, as all of the nicotine becomes available for absorption into the body.

Some good news: One of the first things nicotine does in the body is induce vomiting, which may save the patient's life if there is more cigarette material in the stomach. Still, if you think your pet has eaten cigarettes or other tobacco products, call a veterinarian for advice right away.

And as always: The best medicine is preventive. Watch what your pets get into.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

PET TIP

For cats, the higher up the better

Most healthy cats are able to jump several times their own height and land gracefully and accurately on a piece of real estate not much bigger than a half-sheet of paper.

That ability comes from their powerful thigh muscles, which constrict tightly and then let go like a catapult. A human with the leg strength and power of a cat could jump from the ground to the top of a house -- the only problem is that his thighs would be as big as his waist.

Their jumping prowess enables cats to put themselves up above it all, where they feel secure and can see everything that's going on. On top of the bookshelf is a safe place to be when the dog or the kids are on the rampage or the vacuum cleaner is roaring -- just as being on top of the garden wall is a great place to be when you're watching for little mice in the grass. Being up high probably also suits a cat's attitude: They like to look down on us.

The desire to go higher is stronger in some cats than in others. Among pedigreed cats, the slender, athletic cats of the Oriental varieties, such as Abyssinians and Siamese, are born to jump. Cats with larger, heavier bodies, such as Persians, are more likely to consider a jump onto the couch to be high enough.

Not all cats are as graceful as they think they are. If you live with a cat who's always bumping things off the shelves, you need to take action to prevent your favorite knickknacks from being knocked down. Your most delicate, darling and irreplaceable items are best kept behind doors in glass-fronted cabinets. For the others, get a product called Quake Hold. It's a putty that museums use to fasten items to shelves.

PETS BY THE NUMBERS

Dirty cages, dirty birds

Less than half of all bird owners report sanitizing their pet's cage on a weekly basis. Keeping a cage clean is an important element in keeping birds disease-free. So how often are cages sanitized? Here's the poop:

Weekly or more often 42 percent

Once every 2 to 3 weeks 17 percent

Monthly 17 percent

Once every 2 to 4 months 5 percent

Once every 4 to 6 months 2 percent

Two to three times a year 3 percent

Annually 4 percent

Never 9 percent

No answer 1 percent

Source: American Pet Products Manufacturers Association

PETS ON THE WEB

Site celebrates Ragdoll cats

A lot of nonsense gets passes around about cat breeds (dog breeds, too), and some of it seems to take on a life of its own. There are claims that Rex cats are hypoallergenic (sorry, no), and that Ragdolls go limp when they're picked up because of some genetic mutation in their nervous system or because human genes were spliced in.

Ragdoll cats are prized for their laidback personality, and the mellowest of these beauties have been used in breeding programs over the years, making an easygoing cat even more so. But there's no weird science behind that Ragdoll flop and not all Ragdolls are floppers.

The ones that are, however, are a major armful of fluffy feline love -- they just relax into your arms when you pick them up. For more on these gorgeous cats, visit the Ragdoll Connection Network site (www.ragdoll-cats.com).

FREE PET PRODUCTS ON NEW WEB SITE

And if you buy a copy of one of the books through PetConnection.com before Oct. 24, you'll also get some gifts worth more than $100 from pet-care companies in celebration of Pet Wellness Month.

"Do Cats Always Land on Their Feet?" and "Why Do Dogs Drink Out of the Toilet?" (each $12.95, HCI) are co-authored with "Good Morning, America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker. The books explore dozens of the serious, silly and just plain quirky questions that pet lovers have about their animals.

No purchase is required to enter the contest, which features prizes from Bamboo and Petmate. Visit PetConnection.com for all the details. You'll also find a searchable archive of past columns, a popular Web log and more.

Award-winning writer Gina Spadafori has two new books out, which were co-authored with "Good Morning, America" veterinary correspondent Dr. Marty Becker: "Do Cats Always Land on Their Feet?" and "Why Do Dogs Drink From the Toilet?" She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.petconnection.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

pets

Here, Boy!

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | October 2nd, 2006

Call them the Finger Crossers, if you will -- those folks who know if their dogs get loose they'll get them back only when conditions are absolutely right (if there isn't another dog to play with, a squirrel to chase or a scent to follow). Or if they're fast or lucky enough to corner their dogs.

If you're one of these folks, you may well be in the majority. While "Come" or "Here" is one of the most basic of dog commands, it's probably the one most dogs know and respond to the least. Some dogs are naturally more inclined to come when called than others: Herding and sporting breeds and mixes are generally more interested in staying close than independent hounds, terriers and mixes of those breeds. But a reliable recall is possible for any dog -- even yours.

Figuring out why your pet won't mind is the first step toward fixing the problem.

Maybe your dog is afraid to come to you. If you're one of those people who have to chase their dogs, you may also be someone who isn't very happy when you've finally caught up with him. Screaming at your dog for running away or punishing your pet when you collar him at last is a good way of making sure the next time he gets loose he'll run farther, faster. Wouldn't you?

Being reunited with you should be a positive experience. Never, ever punish a dog for coming to you or for failing to come.

If you're not punishing him, perhaps your dog really doesn't understand what you want. Few people practice the recall command enough -- or at all. You probably use "Sit" a half-dozen times a day, just around the house, but you probably don't use "Come" or "Here" in the house when you want your dog near you. Maybe all you have to do is open the refrigerator. If that's the case, your dog doesn't understand the relationship between the command and the action of coming to you. He just knows if he's sitting in the right place at the right time, you might drop some food.

Or maybe your dog doesn't see why he should listen to you. You may have a dog who believes what you want is only one of the factors that go into his deciding what he's going to do. A dog who knows what's expected of him and respects you is going to mind you. A dog who thinks you're a dope who couldn't catch a bus is going to treat you like the fool he thinks you are.

If the problems are training and respect, you can fix them both together. Train your dog, work with your dog, treat your dog fairly, and the respect will follow. Teach your dog the "Come" or "Here" command in increments, on a standard 6-foot leash, on progressively longer and lighter lines, and with lots of positive reinforcement. Practice, not just in formal sessions but in everyday life, in ever more challenging situations. Sharpen up all your dog's manners, because they all help build your dog's respect for you.

Elicit the help of a trainer if you just don't seem to be getting anywhere. It's worth the time and trouble: Getting a dog to come when called is more than a nice party trick -- it could save your pet's life one day.

SIDEBAR

Tips for catching a loose dog

Your dog slips out the door and runs down the street, toward a busy boulevard. You know he won't come when called. What should you do?

There are a couple of tricks you can use to catch him. Try to sweet-talk him in with a kneeling, open-arms stance, or run away from him, enticing him to follow -- the chase instinct is very strong in most dogs. Another strategy is to use a command he knows well, like "Sit." Once he's planted, you can take him by the collar. (Don't forget to praise for the sit!) He may respond to treats, if you have time to grab a handful.

A loose-dog situation is not about obedience -- it's about keeping your dog from becoming road-pizza. Once you catch your dog, say a little prayer -- and then vow to train him to come to you when called.

Q&A

Adopting a cat now 'orphaned'

Q: My neighbor died about two months ago; she was only 32. She had a cat, but I don't know the age or anything about the animal except the name.

My neighbor's mom is taking care of the house and cat. She never stays long at the house, maybe 10 minutes at the most. The cat is always at the window either pawing for attention or rubbing her head against the glass so we can pet her.

I know she is lonely and deprived of attention. My heart breaks every day for this cat. I just don't know what is going to happen to her.

Do you think it's a good idea for me to see about adopting her? I have two dogs, and I have never had a cat. -- C.L., via e-mail

A: Your neighbor's mom must be reeling from the shock of her daughter's death, and she's trying to do the best she can. Losing a 32-year-old daughter is not something any parent plans on, that's for sure.

I encourage you to gently ask whether the cat is available for adoption. If she is, I think you should strongly consider adopting her. With two dogs, you're no stranger to the responsibility of caring for pets, and I bet you'd love having this friendly cat in your family.

I'm guessing your neighbor's mom hasn't a clue what to do about the cat, and she would be relieved and happy for the animal to move to your house.

As for your caring for the cat, you'll be fine once the introductions are over. Set the cat up in a room of her own, away from the dogs, and let her get used to her new surroundings without doing anything more than hearing and smelling her new roommates. Once she's settled, introduce the dogs one at a time on leash, and monitor their interactions with the cat until you're certain they know she is family, not a chase toy.

Most dogs and cats can learn to at least tolerate each other. If you have trouble, ask your veterinarian for a referral to a trainer or behaviorist who can help.

Sleep, kitty!

Q: I need my sleep. But just as I'm going to bed, my cat thinks it's time to play. Why does she do this, and how can I make her stop? -- W.I., via e-mail

A: Cats like to play when we're winding down because a cat is a creature of the night -- or at least, the twilight. Cats sleep all day and most of the night, so they can be at their liveliest when the sun is setting. The early bird may get the worm, but it's the twilight kitty who scores the mouse.

While many cats eventually figure out that we're not much fun after dark, some never stop pestering their owners to play -- especially young cats, who just don't understand why you're so willing to cash in your chips when the night is still young.

Try playing with your cat an hour or so before bedtime to take the edge off the kitty crazies. A couple of extra play sessions throughout the day will also help.

Also, feed your cat his biggest meal of wet food immediately before your bedtime, to give you a head start and to take advantage of the natural tendency of cats (and people) to feel a little sleepy after a meal.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

THE SCOOP

Tiger cats tops in popularity

We humans have long had a desire to meddle with other animals, and that's certainly true of the cat. While we've been content overall to leave most cats in a pretty predictable size and shape -- especially when you consider what we've done with dogs -- we've done a lot with the feline coat. Consider this: The Cat Fanciers' Association lists more than 60 color patterns for the Persian alone.

But the tabby rules. Those tiger-striped markings are the original pattern of our cats' ancestors, and they can still be observed on some wild relatives of the domestic cat.

Tabbies come in several distinct patterns and many colors, including red (more commonly called orange, ginger or marmalade), cream, brown and gray. The tabby pattern is so dominant that, even in solid-colored cats, if you squint a little you can often discern faint tabby markings, especially on the head, legs and tail.

The word "tabby," by the way, comes from Atabi, a silk imported to Britain long ago that had a striped pattern similar to that of the domestic cat.

ENTER CONTEST FOR PET GEAR

"Do Cats Always Land on Their Feet?" and "Why Do Dogs Drink Out of the Toilet?" ($12.95 each, HCI) are co-authored with "Good Morning America" veterinarian Dr. Marty Becker. The books explore dozens of the serious, silly and just plain quirky questions that pet lovers have about their animals.

The contest features free pet gear from Bamboo and Petmate, with weekly winners choosing between prize packages for either cats or dogs. No purchase is required. For information or to enter, visit www.PetConnection.com. You'll also find a searchable archive of past columns, a popular Web log and more.

PET Rx

Does the nose know dog health?

Can you tell if your dog is sick by checking his nose? Not really, but there's more to the story.

A dog's nose is usually damp because tears are constantly produced to lubricate the movement of the eyes. Because this lubrication is so critical to eye health, the dog's body routinely produces more tears than are needed. These excess tears flow through the naso-lacrimal (literally "nose-tears") duct and out the base of the nose. (People also experience this when crying.)

As the tears drip down into the dog's face, the animal licks the nose, spreading the tear fluid over the nose, which wets it. Then, evaporation causes the nose to be cool. The moistened nose is better equipped to dissolve airborne chemicals, which contributes to a better sense of smell.

When a dog is sick, the body uses up more internal fluids in the process of fighting disease. This increased use, especially with a fever, causes relative dehydration, even if the dog is drinking a normal amount of water. This dehydration results in decreased tear production, and hence a dry nose.

However, the same dry nose could be because of fluid loss from panting on a hot day. Some dogs have problems with blocked tear ducts, so there is less fluid flowing through the ducts to moisten the nose at all times.

The bottom line: A dry nose is one indicator of hydration, but it indicates illness only if it's coupled with lethargy and other symptoms.

A calm, relaxed dog officially has a fever when you either stick a thermometer where the sun doesn't shine or use one of the new instant ear thermometers and determine that the dog's temperature is above 102.5 degrees Fahrenheit.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

PETS BY THE NUMBERS

Tanks for the effort

According to a survey by the American Pet Products Manufacturers Association, the top complaints of people with fish have mostly to do with the time and effort spent keeping the tanks and water clean. The top drawbacks (multiple answers allowed):

Cleaning 66 percent

Keeping water clear 42 percent

Algae 39 percent

Fish fighting 22 percent

Equipment cost 22 percent

PETS ON THE WEB

Helping

Why are pets given up? The top reason for dogs is "moving." For cats, it's "too many in home." The rankings and the studies that produced them come from the National Council on Pet Population Study and Policy, a nonprofit organization of veterinary, humane and breeders' groups formed to get the real story on what causes pet overpopulation and how to deal with the problem.

On the council's well-organized Web site (www.petpopulation.org), you'll find information that challenges assumptions about why pets end up homeless. Behavior and housing problems are significant for both dogs and cats, which makes pre-adoption counseling extremely important.

Getting good information about why people give up on their pets is the important first step when it comes to formulating plans to fight pet overpopulation.

Award-winning writer Gina Spadafori has two new books out, which were co-authored with "Good Morning, America" veterinary correspondent Dr. Marty Becker: "Do Cats Always Land on Their Feet?" and "Why Do Dogs Drink From the Toilet?" She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.petconnection.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

pets

Old Cat, New Home

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | September 25th, 2006

No matter how sweet, no matter how lovely and no matter how well-mannered they may be, for homeless cats, this time of year is not their friend.

That's because late summer and early fall are peak kitten season, when so many kittens are born that there aren't enough homes for them all. And that means an adult cat will hardly get a look when someone visits the shelter.

That's a shame. Because as cute as kittens are, an adult cat can often ease into a household more quickly, and without the sometimes over-the-top behavior of an energetic youngster.

If you're trying to find a home for an adult cat -- perhaps because a relative or neighbor has passed on, or a cat has just "showed up" and you already have a houseful -- it's never an easy task. But if you're determined to do your best for the cat -- and be patient while you try -- you probably will succeed.

The first step to placing an adult cat may be convincing prospective owners that an adult cat is worth considering, or that two cats are better than one if there's already a resident cat. Here are some tips to follow:

-- Do everything you can to make the animal more adoptable. The pet has a better chance for adoption if her vaccinations are current, she uses her litter box reliably, and she's altered.

-- Don't lie about the pet's problems or why she's being placed. Although finding a new home for a pet with problems takes longer, you can usually still do so. But the person who gets such a pet without warning is likely to bring her back, take her to a shelter or give her away -- maybe to a horrible situation.

-- Spread the news. Make up fliers, and take out an ad in your newspaper and on Internet sites. Post the fliers everywhere you can: bulletin boards at work, pet-supply stores and your veterinarian's office. Give some to your friends and family to post where they work, too. Talk up the cat (at least briefly) with everyone you know. Even people who don't like cats (or don't want one) may know someone who is looking for a pet. The more exposure you can get, the better. If a thousand people hear or read about the animal, you probably will get no interest from 999, but you need only one person to provide a good home for the cat. And that's the one you need to reach.

-- Ask lots of questions and verify that the answers are true. Don't forget to ask prospective adopters whether they've had pets before and what happened to them. Make sure you're dealing with people who realize that owning a pet is a long-term commitment. The person who has had a lot of pets who've disappeared, died young or were given away is probably not your best choice. My favorite question: Who's your veterinarian? Someone who cannot at least name a vet or a veterinary hospital may have pets who don't go there very often.

Above all, don't give up! It may take weeks to find the right home for a pet, but it's always worth the time it may take to get it right. The goal here is not to "get rid of" an animal, but to find a loving, caring and, most of all, permanent home for a pet who needs one. They're out there, and if you keep looking, you'll likely find the home that's just right for the cat you're trying to help.

Or maybe, like a lot of people who foster pets, you'll decide there's room for one more in your own home.

SIDEBAR

Petfinder.com: Advocates for homeless animals

When it comes to helping animals find new homes, no Web site has the reach and the power of www.Petfinder.com. With thousands of shelters and rescue groups listing several hundred thousand homeless animals on the site at any given time, Petfinder.com is a must-visit for anyone looking to adopt a new pet.

But Petfinder is more than a matchmaking service for people and pets. In the weeks following Hurricane Katrina, Petfinder stepped up to help coordinate disaster response for the animals left behind. And recent changes on the site help pet lovers solve behavior problems that leave pets in danger of being given up.

I've been an unabashed supporter of PetFinder.com since its earliest days, and I'm happy to see the site just keep getting better.

Q&A

In defense of declawing

Q: Having recently lost our 21-year-old cat who passed away after a slow decline from kidney failure (and three years of daily fluids which we lovingly administered), we decided to adopt a kitten to befriend our 2-year-old male cat (rescued and nursed through a near-deadly upper-respiratory infection).

After contacting a local rescue group, we were told that we were not suitable pet owners because we were "declawers" and that no organization would adopt out to "people like us." I was angry and horrified to think that local shelters would rather put down animals than adopt them out to us.

We treat our pets like members of the family. Declawing is not a cosmetic procedure like ear- or tail-lopping, which I'm not a big fan of. My cats and I have a great loving relationship that is not hindered by my attempting to modify their natural behavior. They can feign scratching and scent-mark their territory, the house, with their paws to their hearts' content.

Can you speak to this issue? -- M.B., via e-mail

A: Rescue organizations and shelters are trying to do what's best for the animals in their care, and they're defining "good home" as they see fit. I can't fault them on trying to do their best for animals, although I have run across many instances where I felt they could have bent the rules to fit the circumstances where a good home needed a little leeway.

I find it interesting, however, that you are opposed to ear crops and tail docks, and yet you see nothing wrong with amputating all the final digits of a cat's front toes as a pre-emptive form of behavioral modification without even trying to train him to use a scratching post. What's the harm in trying non-surgical strategies first? Declawing is to me a last-ditch response to a behavior problem that can often be dealt with more humanely.

As for adopting a kitten with the intent to declaw him, why not instead adopt a cat who has already been declawed? It seems to me that this would keep everyone satisfied and would provide a cat with a wonderful home.

Running dogs

Q: I think you've answered this before, but I can't find it. My daughter is on her high school cross-country team and wants to have our puppy as a running companion. The pup's a golden retriever, 9 months old. Any precautions? -- M.W., via e-mail

A: A healthy adult golden retriever will make a wonderful running companion, but let this pup grow up before your daughter starts hitting the pavement with her. Putting a lot of miles on a young dog who's not fully developed isn't a good idea, and it could lead to injuries.

Instead, work on walks, short runs and thorough leash-training, so when the dog is ready to be a full-fledged running partner, she won't pull your daughter off her feet.

Any serious runner who wants to take on an adult canine running partner needs to check in with the veterinarian and then bring the dog along gradually. A dog is so happy to be out with his person that he won't know when to say "enough." Work on leash-manners -- no pulling -- and gradually building up the dog's fitness level.

Once a dog's a fit running companion, a runner still needs to take precautions. No running in the heat of the day, and no running off-leash in areas where it's not safe or legal. It only takes one squirrel running across the street in front of a dog to provoke a chase and an accident. I used to live across from a park with a running path around its edges, and I witnessed a great many near-misses and a few canine fatalities because of people who believed their dog was trained well enough to be off-leash in a high-traffic area.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET Rx

Fall shedding a normal event

Dogs typically lose their winter coats in the spring, when it is replaced by a shorter, lighter one for summer. In the fall, this cycle is reversed, as the summer coat is shed to make room for heavy protective fur for winter.

The change is most obvious in "double-coated" breeds such as collies, malamutes and keeshonden. Those breeds carry not only a harsh, protective long overcoat, but also a soft, insulating undercoat -- and they lose masses of fur from both in spring and fall.

All shedding can be tamed by a regular and frequent schedule of combing and brushing. After all, the fur you catch on a comb won't end up on a rug.

All shedding -- and heavy seasonal shedding -- is normal, but some heavy shedding can be a sign of health problems. Skin allergies and skin parasites may trigger shedding, and poor nutrition can also be a cause of coat problems.

Become familiar with your pet's normal pattern of shedding, and ask your veterinarian for advice if a pet's coat condition seems to dull or if excessive hair loss is noticed.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

PETS ON THE WEB

Parrot smarts in spotlight

To the folks at the Alex Foundation (www.alexfoundation.org), "bird brain" isn't an insult. Through the work of Irene Pepperberg, parrots have been shown to have a greater understanding of the world and an ability to communicate that goes far beyond "parroting."

Pepperberg's work with African Grey parrots started with Alex, purchased from a Chicago pet store in 1977. Alex can recognize and name colors, can count, and can identify objects from photographs.

The Alex Foundation's Web site gives an overview of Pepperberg's work -- she's currently affiliated with Brandeis and Harvard universities -- as well as offering a gift shop and newsletter archives.

DOGMOBILE

Honda's Element a near-perfect canine conveyance

Few vehicles suit dog lovers as well as the Honda Element. With its easy-clean interior, easy-stow seats and good fuel economy, the Element has to be at the top of any dog lover's short list of vehicles.

To test the Element, I took a day trip of several hundred miles with my youngest retriever in tow to watch some of the world's top canine agility teams compete for slots at their national championships. I flipped the rear seats against the side walls, put down an old bedspread and a soft dog bed, and whistled young McKenzie into her ride.

I immediately noticed a great and surely accidental dog-friendly feature on the Element: windows that are resistant to nose prints. The windows are placed high on the vehicle -- so high that you can't comfortably rest your arm on the driver's side windowsill. And for a dog resting on the floor of the Element, it's tough to put nose prints on the window.

The Element also has clamshell rear doors, the glass opening up for ventilation and the tailgate flipping down to make a great seat.

For two dogs and a longer trip, I'd pop out the rear seats entirely -- not only for the extra cargo room, but also because the seats block the rear windows when they are up, making changing lanes a little more challenging.

My only quibble is a minor one: The cup holders are on the floor, between the two front seats. That meant McKenzie decided to help herself to my drink when I was driving. I'd rather have cup holders come out from the dash, since I don't like sharing my coffee with the four-leggers.

Contrary to widespread belief, you cannot hose out an Element. Instead, I used my forced-air dog dryer to blast any dirt and dog hair from the cargo area before turning the vehicle back in. Everything flew off the rubber mats and out the back door. Sweet!

PETS BY THE NUMBERS

Toys for us!

According to the American Pet Products Manufacturers Association, 62 percent of dog owners buy toys for their pets. The top toys reported by those buyers, by percentage reported purchased, with multiple answers allowed:

Balls 63 percent

Plush 44 percent

Rope 40 percent

Hard rubber 31 percent

Nylon bones 26 percent

PET TIP

Make eating a challenge

The latest buzz in bird behavior advice: "foraging." In the wild, birds spend all their waking hours looking for food, while their domestic relatives are bored, often unfit and fat. Making pet birds "forage" for their meals helps keep them happy and healthy.

You can find toys at any bird-supply retailer that will allow food to be hidden inside for birds to work out the puzzle. You can also create your own challenges for your bird, such as by wrapping food in paper that must be torn away in layers before the food can be found. Favorite bits of food -- such as seeds -- can also be used to teach tricks to birds, thereby exercising a pet's mind along with his body.

The harder your bird has to work for his food, the better off he will be, and the less likely you'll be dealing with behavior problems caused by boredom.

Award-winning writer Gina Spadafori has two new books out, which were co-authored with "Good Morning, America" veterinary correspondent Dr. Marty Becker: "Do Cats Always Land on Their Feet?" and "Why Do Dogs Drink From the Toilet?" She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.petconnection.com.

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