Cats love plants. A cat with free access to the outdoors will spend a large part of his time rolling in the grass, rubbing his cheeks up against trees and nibbling fresh shoots of anything that strikes his fancy.

More cats are being kept indoors for safety these days. And while that's generally good news, it does mean that plants need to follow them in, to keep those indoor cats happy. Plants are an important part of an ideal environment for indoor cats that should also include a variety of toys, cat trees and scratching posts, and screened porches or window perches.

When planning your indoor jungle, make sure poisonous plants are not on the menu. The ASPCA's Animal Poison Control Center (www.aspca.org/apcc) maintains a list of plants that shouldn't be in any cat lover's household. Check your plants against this list. Among the most dangerous are dieffenbachia, lily of the valley and philodendron. Various ivies and yews can be troublesome, too, and the bulbs of plants popular for "forcing" into early indoor bloom -- such as amaryllis, daffodils and tulips -- can cause problems for the cat who likes to dig and chew.

After you've removed the potentially deadly plants, you'll want to put others out of reach just because you'd like them to stay in one piece. Some cats are industrious destroyers of household greenery, while others like to kick dirt around or even use larger pots as litter boxes. All of which makes perfect sense to your cat, annoying as it may be to you.

Plants on the ground or on low tables are the easiest targets, so make your houseplants less accessible to the bored and wandering cat. Put plants up high, or better yet: Hang them.

For the plants you can't move out of harm's way, make them less appealing by coating them with something your cat finds disagreeable. Cat-discouragers include Bitter Apple, a nasty-tasting substance available at any pet-supply store, or Tabasco sauce from any grocery store. Whenever you find what your cat doesn't like, keep reapplying it to reinforce the point. You can also discourage your pet by shooting him with the spray from a water bottle when you see him in the plants.

Pot your plants in heavy, wide-bottomed containers, and cover the soil of the problem plants with rough decorative rock. Foil and waxed paper are less attractive deterrents, and I don't like to recommend them as much as decorative rock because you're going to get tired of looking at that foil.

Once you have your "look, don't touch" plants safely situated, you can indulge your pet by keeping planters of sprouting grasses growing in an accessible place for nibbling. Special blends of seeds for cats are available in pet stores and specialty shops, or you can purchase rye grass or wheat grass seeds at a nursery. Keep tender shoots always available for nibbling by planting fresh seeds every couple of weeks in wide, shallow containers.

You'll also want to keep fresh catnip growing (see sidebar) if your cat enjoys the herb. Don't grow it where your cat can get to it, though, or he may well rip the plant out by the roots.

I think cats appreciate the sight, smell and taste of plants, which is why a houseful of lovely plants -- some for nibbling, some not -- should be part of a feline-friendly environment for any indoor cat.

SIDEBAR

Catnip: herbal nirvana

Is catnip really safe for cats? After all, we don't condone recreational drugs for people, and yet here's one sold openly for our cats.

But it's not as if cats drive, have to show up for work or are faced with huge personal decisions. So let your cat have all the catnip he wants.

The fresher the better, so keep some growing where your cat can't get to it, and snip off bits to slip into cat toys or rub on the cat tree. Crunch up the catnip just before you offer it to your cat to release the intoxicating smell.

Not all cats react to catnip. The ability to appreciate the herb is genetic, with slightly more cats in the fan club than not. These hard-wired preferences aren't immediately apparent, though, since kittens under the age of 3 months don't react to catnip at all.

Q&A

This 'dog car' is a school bus

Q: I enjoyed your piece on "dogmobiles," and I bet you that my story's unique. Will you share it?

I found a 1980 Chevrolet school bus at an auction, bought it for $2,400, paid another $1,600 to get it running well and had seven years of everyday trips with all my dogs in it.

Then I found another school bus, a great 1993 Ford diesel in good condition inside and out. Every morning, the dogs and I went hiking and then into town for errands. I took out half the seats and had platforms made, so that everyone has either a seat with a dog carrier in it or a platform to bark at the passing parade.

I get lots of smiles and waves, and everyone knows me now as the "dog lady." That bus is as dependable as any new car and costs a lot less to run. I highly recommend it! -- Elaine Edwards, via e-mail

A: Thanks for your e-mail and picture. I've heard from an incredible number of readers with suggestions, questions and stories about transporting dogs. I'll start with short vehicle reviews in Pet Connection next week, with longer versions on my pet blog (linked from petconnection.com).

Many people wrote to remind everyone that it's not safe for people or pets when dogs roam freely in vehicles. My dogs generally ride in crates, although I do admit to now and then taking a short errand run with my older retriever Heather riding "shotgun" in the passenger seat.

Interestingly enough, the first vehicle I test-drove for my upcoming vehicle reviews -- the Toyota RAV4 -- has a warning light and tone reminding that everyone should be buckled up, even dogs!

Kitty come down!

Q: Why do cats get stuck up trees? -- G.M., via e-mail

A: Cat claws are designed to move a cat forward, anchoring the animal as it goes. If that forward direction is up a tree, it's difficult to head back down. Instead, the gracefully powerful movement of a cat heading up a tree is counterbalanced by the crashing and controlled free fall used to get down.

Most cats do find their way back down, of course, which is a good thing these days. With municipal budgets being what they are, few fire departments are allowed to respond to "cat stuck in tree" calls anymore.

The best way to get a cat out of a tree? Open a can of tuna, salmon or mackerel and let the wonderful fishy smell drift upward. She'll come down when her hunger outweighs her apprehension.

(Got a question? Send an e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET Rx

Get a cat over a vet hissy fit

A trip to the veterinarian can send a cat into a full-blown snit that can last hours after the return home. The smells of a veterinary setting can even set off other feline family members, who may become aggressive toward the returnee.

Let your cat pick the speed at which he settles back into the household after a trip to the veterinarian. When you get home, put the carrier down in a quiet place, open the carrier door, and leave him alone. Your cat may stay in the carrier for a while, may head for the nearest bed to hide under, or may step out and be just fine.

To help "de-vet" the scent of the returnee so other family cats will settle down, try running a towel over the cat who stayed behind and then swiping it over the returning cat. A dab of vanilla or water from a can of tuna on both noses may also help the cats settle back down, through smell-confusion.

For the cat who is utterly uncontrollable or dangerous when taken to the veterinarian, talk to your veterinarian about sedation, or consider using a mobile veterinarian, who can treat your cat in your home.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

ON THE WEB

White House pets in the spotlight

The Presidential Pet Museum's Web site (www.presidentialpetmuseum.com) is the place to go for a fairly comprehensive list of all presidential animals, from the hounds and horses of George Washington to the dog and cats of George W. Bush. The animals kept by presidential families started out being more purposeful than companionable, with horses and milk cows commonplace.

By the turn of the last century, though, animals were welcomed just for keeping the president and his family company. Theodore Roosevelt brought in the new era with eight dogs and cats and a pack of presidential guinea pigs.

But it fell to another Roosevelt, Franklin Delano, to bring the presidential pet into the political spotlight. His dog, Fala, is still arguably the best-known and most-loved White House pet in history. (Could it be a coincidence that current White House dogs Barney and Miss Beazley are Fala look-alikes?) You'll find Fala's picture and much more on the Presidential Pet Museum's site, which is both attractive and easy to navigate.

PET TIP

Dogs need to learn not to jump up

To dogs, jumping up on people seems perfectly normal.

When dogs greet each other, they check out the places where the scent is strongest: the mouth, the genitals and the anal area. Checking out areas packed with scent glands makes perfect sense for an animal as smell-driven as the dog, even if mouth-licking and crotch-sniffing are not considered polite behavior in human society. An untrained dog will try to connect instinctively, and that means starting the greeting by jumping up for a closer whiff of human breath, followed by a dive for the crotch.

Dogs have to be trained in human etiquette, and a lot of times we don't do a good job of it. We may, for example, have rules that make perfect sense to us but are completely incomprehensible to a dog. Do you let your dog jump up on you when you're in jeans but yell at her for doing the same when you're dressed for an evening out? Congratulations! You've just failed the dog logic test.

Some people let little dogs jump up because it's cute and easier than bending down to greet the dog. These dogs quickly learn this behavior will get them picked up.

Pick a set of rules -- dog rules, people rules or some combination of the two. But whichever rules you pick, be consistent and don't expect your dog to magically understand when jumping up is OK and when it isn't. It's either fine all the time, or it's not.

How to get your dog to stop jumping up? Ask for and reward a behavior that's incompatible with the one you don't want. Best bet in this case: Sit.

BY THE NUMBERS

Fish better than TV?

Why keep fish? While some people enjoy the challenge of keeping complex tanks running well, most people cite watching an aquarium as the thing they like best about having fish. Top reasons (multiple answers allowed):

Fun to watch 84 percent

Appearance 78 percent

Relaxation 69 percent

Quiet 57 percent

Easy to maintain 47 percent

Source: American Pet Products Manufacturers Association

THE SCOOP

Kittens good at multiplying

A female cat with good access to males who gets an early start in the breeding season (February to September) will probably be able to raise three litters of kittens per year. Litter sizes vary from one kitten to 10, with the number typically smaller in young and old animals and largest when the mother cat is 3 to 4 years of age.

Add it all up, and a busy mother can produce 50 to 150 kittens in her lifetime. Some cats have even more, with a lifetime total of more than 200. The kittens born are soon producing more kittens, who in turn produce more kittens, who ... well, you get the picture.

This is prime kitten season, when more babies are born than can find homes. If you adopt one of those babies, don't delay in getting your kitten spayed or neutered.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

The easiest way to stop a dog from begging is never to let the habit start. But we all know how difficult those mournful eyes can be to turn down.

The problem starts when a new dog or puppy first comes home. Dogs learn early on that we two-leggers are the main source of food, and they're not above testing the waters to see what works when it comes to getting us to give up the goodies.

A dog's very cuteness may get us to reward the begging, especially with puppies. When we like the dog's behavior, we say we're "sharing" our food. When we don't like the behavior, we call it "begging." And we foolishly expect our dogs to see the difference.

But the truth is that we are the ones who control and shape a dog's behavior. Do you think your dog would ever have learned to beg if the first few times she tried, she got nothing for her efforts? And never got anything, no matter how cute she looked, no matter when?

If you never want your dog to stick her nose in your plate, put her head on your knee or paw at your arm, then don't ever reward her with food when she does.

What if it's too late for that? With patience and consistency, you can change your dog's behavior by never rewarding the begging again. When your dog finally becomes convinced that she will never again see another piece of food delivered from off your plate, she'll stop asking. You can also have her practice a behavior that's incompatible with having her nose on your knee -- a down-stay on the other side of the room while you're eating.

But be warned: If you're inconsistent, you'll actually make the problem worse. Rewarding a behavior occasionally is called random reinforcement, and it's a powerful motivator. In fact, it's what keeps the gambling industry afloat. Even though gamblers know the house always wins, they keep pulling the handle on those slot machines because they get a little back now and then, and because sometimes they hit the jackpot. Dog trainers use these principles to instill good behaviors in dogs, but many pet lovers inadvertently use them to teach a dog bad habits -- like begging.

Preventing a problem is always easier than fixing one. When you get a dog, think about the house rules you want, and insist on them from day one. No exceptions! If you don't mind your dog being on the furniture, then don't yell at your dog for being on the couch when you have company. If you don't want your dog begging, then don't allow it, ever.

And if you have a beggar on your hands, realize the fault is yours -- and be determined to be consistent in turning the situation around.

Q&A

Don't trust dog with mail carrier

Q: Our poodle loves everyone except the mailman. When he comes up the walk, she goes crazy. She barks, snarls and throws herself at the window and doesn't stop until he's gone.

This is really out of character for her, and I can't imagine she'd really bite him. Do you think we could let her meet him to see that he's "OK"? Would that stop this nastiness? -- G.P., via e-mail

A: Yours is certainly not a theory I'd want to test, for the safety of your mail carrier, no matter how sweet your dog or how dog-loving your mail carrier may be. The chances of your dog biting the mail carrier are pretty decent at this point.

So how does a sweet, friendly dog come to hate the mail carrier to the point of biting? It happens all the time, completely unintentionally.

It's natural for a dog to bark in warning when a stranger comes to the door. In the case of the mail carrier, that stranger comes almost every day at about the same time. The dog barks to alert the family and to tell the stranger that he is about to invade protected territory.

And then the mail carrier leaves. From the dog's point of view, it was her brave warning that sent the interloper packing. She doesn't realize the mail carrier's just going on to the next house. As the dog sees it, she barked and the interloper left.

Over time, the dog's reaction intensifies as she tries harder to send a message to the mail carrier, who just doesn't seem to learn to keep away. As the dog becomes more and more worked up over time by this routine, the potential for a bite increases. I'd recommend asking your veterinarian for a referral to a behaviorist or trainer who can set out a program to retrain your dog away from the potential for biting. If nothing else, be very certain that your dog is never in a position to slip out the door when a mail carrier or other delivery person is in the area.

Don't take a chance! The United States Postal Service reports that its carriers suffer about 3,000 dog bites a year, and carriers are encouraged to protect themselves from bites and seek payments for pain and suffering if one occurs. In the best interest of dogs and mail carriers everywhere, dog owners are well-advised to restrain or retrain their dogs to keep from adding to those bite statistics.

Do fence me in

Q: Thanks for your article about corralling cats. We have a number of furry little friends, and we'd like to add our voice to the choir about the benefits of not letting them roam. You are quite right about the reduced health care costs. I figure our veterinary bills are reduced by about 30 percent to 50 percent by keeping them home.

Would you share a compromise solution with your readers that allows a cat some room to roam? We modified our existing backyard fence with a plastic mesh "cat fence." It allows access to the back yard, but keeps them from roaming. I recommend the "keep your cats in and other cats out" configuration. It has worked great for us for more than 10 years. -- W.H. and H.H., via e-mail

A: I've written about cat fencing before and am wholeheartedly in favor of it. The nylon mesh is extended above the regular fence line and blends in so well as to be almost invisible. Cats can't get over the top of the mesh, so they stay in their owners' yards.

An Internet search on the term "cat fencing" will turn up several companies that sell kits as well as do-it-yourself directions from a couple of sources. It is indeed a compromise that both cats and neighbors can live with.

PET Rx

Vet can help fight the flea

Flea allergy dermatitis is the most common skin disease of dogs and cats. For the flea-allergic patient, 100 percent flea control is required to remain symptom-free. Even very minimal exposure may be sufficient to perpetuate itching in a hypersensitive patient -- one or two bites per week are enough!

Flea control has always been a challenge because the adult fleas cause the problems, yet the majority of the flea population (eggs, larvae and pupae) are found off the pet, in and around the home. The ideal flea-control program uses products that target the various stages of the flea life cycle, not only the adult fleas on the pet.

In recent years, some new products have been added to our flea-control arsenal. These appear to be highly effective, long-lasting and have a very low potential of harmful side effects.

Talk to your veterinarian to determine which product or combination of products will break the life cycle of the flea and relieve your pet -- and you! -- from the itchy misery of these hardy and pervasive parasites.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

ON THE WEB

Greyhounds run into the heart

It's generally agreed that the fastest breed of dog is the greyhound. And the fastest greyhounds can run at a speed of just under 42 mph. These speedsters are notoriously quiet and could even be called lazy when not on the run, which is why various greyhound adoption groups have chosen to market the dogs with the clever slogan, "Adopt a 40 mph couch potato."

Retired racing greyhounds are quiet, sweet-natured dogs with an easy-care coat. These lean, leggy dogs love a soft bed and a coat when it's cold, but otherwise they are hardy pets who fit in well with many family arrangements.

Because the washout rate for racing dogs in training or competition is steady, there are always greyhounds available for adoption. One site to help match career-change greyhounds with new homes is Greyhound Pets of America (www.greyhoundpets.org), with links to chapters in 25 states. -- G.S.

THE SCOOP

'Disobedience' key to service dog's work

Did you ever wonder how service dogs trained to assist vision-impaired people know when it's safe to cross the street? It has nothing to do with the color or position of the walk signal, and everything to do with the teamwork between the dog and the person.

Dogs trained to assist vision-impaired people are a relative rarity amongst working dogs in that a big part of their training is learning when it's important to disobey. So explains Jane Brackman, former executive director of Guide Dogs of America and owner of the Sirius Press (www.janebrackman.com).

Think about it: Most working dogs are trained to get something reliably done, on command, every single time. They're supposed to sniff out the drugs or bombs, bite the bad guy, find missing people, round up sheep or retrieve birds. Brackman points out that when a blind person tells a service dog what to do, he often doesn't know what he's really asking because he can't see the hazards in front of him. The dog has to know when to disobey, and the owner has to support the dog's decisions.

"You're crossing Wilshire Boulevard, eight lanes, but the blind person doesn't know two of the lanes are under construction," she says. "He listens for the traffic signal changing, hears the traffic flow change, and then tells the dog, 'Forward.' If the dog feels it's not safe to proceed, she'll back up into the rigid harness, signaling to the person that it's unsafe to go forward."

Brackman says it's a partnership built on respect and trust. "Neither the dog nor the person is in total control at any time. Their lives depend on each other. Neither could cross the street safely without the other."

The only signals that really count, in other words, are from handler to dog and back again. -- G.S.

BY THE NUMBERS

Thanks for letting me in!

Fewer dogs are spending their entire lives outdoors, according to a 2004 survey of pet lovers. Where dogs hang out:

During the day

Indoors 47 percent

Outdoors 20 percent

Indoors and outdoors 33 percent

During the night

Indoors 65 percent

Outdoors 18 percent

Indoors and outdoors 17 percent

Source: American Pet Products Manufacturers Association

PET TIP

Parrot's eyes give early bite warning

Parrots often stare at something that fascinates or frightens them, using one eye and tipping the head, or using both eyes for a head-on look. When you see your bird fixated on something, follow that line of vision. A relaxed body posture accompanies a calm, curious bird's staring, and a more defensive or aggressive body language demonstrates fright.

Parrots are able to control their irises, shrinking and enlarging their pupils rapidly in a display that's called "flashing" or "pinning." Parrots may exhibit this behavior when they're excited or when they're angry.

Flashing or pinning accompanied by aggressive posturing, such as tail-fanning, signifies a bird who's bound to escalate his warnings -- and maybe even bite -- if not left alone to calm down on his own. If you must handle a parrot in an agitated state, wrap him in a towel for protection. -- G.S

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

If you have a dog who urinates when you scold him or greet him, chances are you are not dealing with a house-training problem. Rather, your dog is exhibiting a behavior the experts call "submissive urination" -- and you'll need a positive, no-punishment approach to get your pup to dry up.

It helps to know what sets this behavior apart from poor house-training. That means learning a little about canine body language, the way dogs and wolves communicate with one another.

Although dogs are domesticated, they still have a lot in common with their wild relatives. Dogs adjust to being members of our families so well because, like us, they have evolved to feel comfortable within a social structure. For dogs and wolves, the family is the pack, and to live harmoniously within it, they need to share a common language that allows some pack members to establish higher rank than others. If fighting settled all disputes, the pack members would soon be so chewed up they wouldn't be able to hunt. So instead, dogs and wolves use ritual behaviors to establish and reinforce pack order.

Submissive urination is one of those behaviors. A lower-status animal will crouch in the presence of more dominant pack members and release a little urine to signal that he accepts his place. He may even roll over on his back and then release urine. The behavior that so annoys humans is perfectly acceptable -- and understandable -- among dogs and wolves.

Among pet dogs, the behavior is more common in puppies and youngsters, and in some breeds or mixes known for their gentle, shy or anxious natures. Dogs who have been abused may also urinate submissively. In these dogs, the message they're trying to convey is heartbreaking: Please don't hurt me anymore! While some dogs urinate when confronted by anyone, even in a friendly manner, others react submissively only when scolded, or when approached by what they see as a particularly intimidating person, such as a man who's very tall or has a deep, booming voice.

Before starting to work on correcting submissive urination, have your pet checked out by your veterinarian to make sure there's no medical difficulty either at the root of the behavior or contributing to the problem. Some medical conditions may make urine-control difficult, and if that's the case, your pet will need to be made healthy before training can be expected to have much of an effect.

Never punish a dog for submissive urination, not only because it's ineffective, but also because it can make the problem worse. Instead, resolve to keep interactions low-key and upbeat, and gently reward your pet for proper greeting behavior -- docile and dry.

When greeting your pup, work to be less dominant. Keep your voice low and quiet, don't make direct eye contact, and come down to your dog's level to lessen your height. Crouch rather than bend at the knees so you don't loom over your dog.

Obedience training is a good confidence builder. Teach your dog to sit and shake hands, and ask for and reward those behaviors when you greet your pet. Since some dogs find a pat on the head intimidating, reward your dog by petting him under the chin, or by scratching him on the chest.

Make sure all family members handle the dog properly, and ask visitors to do the same. For many young dogs, the problem will resolve itself as they mature, although you can speed things up by working to build your pet's confidence and trust. For other dogs, especially those who've been abused, training may be a frustrating and long-term process.

Correcting submissive behavior might take some time. But with patience, consistency and kindness, you can usually resolve the behavior -- and gain a happier, more confident pet in the bargain.

(Gina Spadafori has the week off. This column originally appeared in 2002.)

Q&A

Is high energy normal for pup?

Q: My wife and I have a 12-year-old yellow Labrador and a 10-year-old golden. My newly married daughter went to the pound and brought home a 1-year-old yellow Labrador to a one-bed room apartment. That did not work, so guess who inherited him?

He is great, but we were used to mellow dogs after all these years. He is wearing us out. Despite having a huge fenced back yard and an older male dog friend who will occasionally run with him, the puppy demands to play only with us. We throw him his ball 50 times and he wants the 51st. Any suggestions? My arm hurts. -- S.B., via e-mail

A: Congratulations! You have a normal 1-year-old Labrador. You probably have long forgotten what your older retrievers were like when they were yearlings. Retrievers typically don't mature into that lovely, mellow companion stage until over the age of 2 (and in many cases, closer to 4). I live with retrievers. I love retrievers. They're brain-dead until 2, and just about the best dogs in the world at 5.

Get a Chuck-It tennis ball flinger to spare your arm and keep throwing. If the dog's not kept exercised, he'll find something worse to do than pester you.

Keeping retrievers exercised is essential to keeping them happy and you sane. If at all possible, include swimming -- retrieving in water -- in his exercise regiment. Retrievers are made to swim, after all, and a half-hour of swimming wears a dog out like nothing I know.

Q: I read your article on tips for travel with pets. We travel with our schnauzer, so we are familiar with the rules for traveling with a pet.

In your article you state that if you are going to leave your pet alone in the motel room to make sure you offer a biscuit to keep the pet comfortable. It is interesting that you should say that, because in all the hotels and motels we have stayed, we have to sign a notice stating that we are not to leave our pet in the room alone ever. So when we go out to dinner, we always take her with us or we have room service. Could you pass this information on to your readers? -- P.G., via e-mail

A: You didn't get that tip from me. I would never suggest leaving a pet loose and alone in a motel room. If the animal is quiet and well-behaved, it's OK to leave them in the room secured in a crate, but never loose.

Aside from the potential for destructiveness and noise, a pet could escape if hotel staff had to enter the room for some reason. Pets have a higher risk of being lost when in unfamiliar surroundings such as when on a family vacation. That's why I'm a real believer in ID tags (with your cell phone number on them), microchips (for permanent ID), good leashes and study travel crates.

Crates can't be beat as a travel accessory for pets. Although traveling with a crate sized for a large dog can present some packing challenges, including a crate for a small dog vastly increases your flexibility when it comes to travel. With a crate, your dog is on the road with his own safe, comfortable hotel room.

Soft-sided crates are great for carry-on air travel and more casual short trips, but a hard-sided carrier will offer the most options when it comes to keeping your pet safe and secure while on the road. Made of high-impact plastic, hard-sided crates are not expensive to acquire, and they can double as part of your disaster preparation kit, just in case.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET Rx

Check pets often for icky ticks

Although ticks can transmit diseases, they are usually nothing more than a nuisance. The best approach is to prevent them from embedding, or once embedded, to remove them quickly.

The best way to find ticks on your pet is to run your hands over the whole body. Check for ticks every time your pet comes back from somewhere you know is inhabited by ticks. Ticks attach most frequently around the pet's head, ears, neck and feet, but are by no means restricted to those areas.

The safest way to remove a tick is to use rubbing alcohol and a pair of tweezers. Dab rubbing alcohol on the tick, and then use the tweezers to take hold of the tick as close to the dog's skin as you can; pull slowly and steadily. Try not to leave the tick's head embedded in the dog's skin.

Don't squeeze the tick, because it might inject some disease-causing organisms (such as bacteria, viruses or protozoa) into the animal during the process. Risk of disease transmission to you while removing ticks is low, but you should wear gloves if you wish to be perfectly safe. Do not apply hot matches, petroleum jelly, turpentine, nail polish or alcohol to ticks, because these methods do not remove the ticks, and they are not safe for your pet.

Once you have removed a live tick, don't dispose of it until you have killed it. Put the tick in alcohol or insecticide to kill it.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

ON THE WEB

Daily Drool just for basset fans

The folks behind the Daily Drool (www.dailydrool.com) love basset hounds, and they want to share their admiration of the breed with other like-minded people. The well-designed Web site offers everything you could want in the way of information about bassets, along with plenty of entertaining diversions such as e-cards, images and more.

What's the best way to get a basset hound into a vehicle? With a ramp, says the Drool, which offers downloadable directions on how to make one. A definite labor of love, the Web site supports itself and basset rescue through donations and from the proceeds of steering people toward Drool-endorsed books and other products. Either way, it's a good site to support and a good cause, too.

If you have basset hounds, you'll love this online community. Baooowww-woooo!

THE SCOOP

Specialists offer options in veterinary care

Although not as many specialists exist in veterinary medicine as in human medicine, the number and the kinds of certified veterinary experts grow every year.

Current companion-animal specialties include such "system" areas of expertise as cardiology, dentistry, dermatology and oncology. There are also "species" specialists, such as those veterinarians certified as experts on bird health. Behavior specialists are becoming more common as well. These veterinarians help people and their pets work through such problems as house-soiling or separation anxiety with the aid of medication and behavior-modification techniques.

"System" specialties usually require additional study in a two- to five-year residency program, followed by a rigorous examination. These certifications are handled by a board such as the American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine, which is why certified specialists are sometimes referred to as "boarded" or "board-certified."

For veterinarians already in practice, the American Board of Veterinary Practitioners also offers specialty certifications, including those in feline and avian practice. The certifications also require passing a difficult examination.

Many urban centers support independent specialists or specialty practices. But in less populated areas, you're more likely to find a full complement of specialists at the closest university with a school or college of veterinary medicine.

The relationship between your pet's regular veterinarian and a specialist is one of cooperation and trust. Your veterinarian will consult with or refer you to a specialist knowing that when the situation he sent you there for is resolved, you will be sent back to his practice. Without this understanding, your regular veterinarian would be understandably reluctant to refer a client he will not get back.

If your veterinarian is reluctant to refer you to a specialist, remember that the final decision in your pet's care is always yours. Keep the lines of communication open with your veterinarian if you can, but realize your pet's care is your responsibility, and seek a second option or specialist on your own.

BY THE NUMBERS

Pets? No thanks

Interest in and spending on pets has grown in the last couple of decades, but not everyone is rushing to add something furry, feathered or finned to their families. The top five reasons cited (more than one response was allowed) for not wanting a pet include:

Don't want to clean up after a pet 35 percent

Not home enough 33 percent

Shedding 30 percent

Too much responsibility 30 percent

Too expensive 25 percent

Source: American Pet Products Manufacturers Association

PET TIP

Not all birds flock together

The wide range in size of pet birds suggests that keeping some species together is just asking for trouble. Picture the largest macaw with a tiny budgie, and you can see some conflict potential.

If forced to choose just one bird that doesn't mingle well, though, avian experts will usually point to the grey-cheeked parakeet.

The little bird with a big attitude is usually a sweetie with people but is always ready to rumble with other parrots. These cheeky little guys won't shy away from picking a fight with a much larger bird -- which almost certainly leads to injury.

Pay attention to the sizes and the personalities of your birds. And be aware that while some might coexist peacefully, others might need to be housed not just in different cages but in different rooms -- especially if one of your pets is the pugnacious grey-cheeked parakeet.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

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