If you have a dog who urinates when you scold him or greet him, chances are you are not dealing with a house-training problem. Rather, your dog is exhibiting a behavior the experts call "submissive urination" -- and you'll need a positive, no-punishment approach to get your pup to dry up.

It helps to know what sets this behavior apart from poor house-training. That means learning a little about canine body language, the way dogs and wolves communicate with one another.

Although dogs are domesticated, they still have a lot in common with their wild relatives. Dogs adjust to being members of our families so well because, like us, they have evolved to feel comfortable within a social structure. For dogs and wolves, the family is the pack, and to live harmoniously within it, they need to share a common language that allows some pack members to establish higher rank than others. If fighting settled all disputes, the pack members would soon be so chewed up they wouldn't be able to hunt. So instead, dogs and wolves use ritual behaviors to establish and reinforce pack order.

Submissive urination is one of those behaviors. A lower-status animal will crouch in the presence of more dominant pack members and release a little urine to signal that he accepts his place. He may even roll over on his back and then release urine. The behavior that so annoys humans is perfectly acceptable -- and understandable -- among dogs and wolves.

Among pet dogs, the behavior is more common in puppies and youngsters, and in some breeds or mixes known for their gentle, shy or anxious natures. Dogs who have been abused may also urinate submissively. In these dogs, the message they're trying to convey is heartbreaking: Please don't hurt me anymore! While some dogs urinate when confronted by anyone, even in a friendly manner, others react submissively only when scolded, or when approached by what they see as a particularly intimidating person, such as a man who's very tall or has a deep, booming voice.

Before starting to work on correcting submissive urination, have your pet checked out by your veterinarian to make sure there's no medical difficulty either at the root of the behavior or contributing to the problem. Some medical conditions may make urine-control difficult, and if that's the case, your pet will need to be made healthy before training can be expected to have much of an effect.

Never punish a dog for submissive urination, not only because it's ineffective, but also because it can make the problem worse. Instead, resolve to keep interactions low-key and upbeat, and gently reward your pet for proper greeting behavior -- docile and dry.

When greeting your pup, work to be less dominant. Keep your voice low and quiet, don't make direct eye contact, and come down to your dog's level to lessen your height. Crouch rather than bend at the knees so you don't loom over your dog.

Obedience training is a good confidence builder. Teach your dog to sit and shake hands, and ask for and reward those behaviors when you greet your pet. Since some dogs find a pat on the head intimidating, reward your dog by petting him under the chin, or by scratching him on the chest.

Make sure all family members handle the dog properly, and ask visitors to do the same. For many young dogs, the problem will resolve itself as they mature, although you can speed things up by working to build your pet's confidence and trust. For other dogs, especially those who've been abused, training may be a frustrating and long-term process.

Correcting submissive behavior might take some time. But with patience, consistency and kindness, you can usually resolve the behavior -- and gain a happier, more confident pet in the bargain.

(Gina Spadafori has the week off. This column originally appeared in 2002.)

Q&A

Is high energy normal for pup?

Q: My wife and I have a 12-year-old yellow Labrador and a 10-year-old golden. My newly married daughter went to the pound and brought home a 1-year-old yellow Labrador to a one-bed room apartment. That did not work, so guess who inherited him?

He is great, but we were used to mellow dogs after all these years. He is wearing us out. Despite having a huge fenced back yard and an older male dog friend who will occasionally run with him, the puppy demands to play only with us. We throw him his ball 50 times and he wants the 51st. Any suggestions? My arm hurts. -- S.B., via e-mail

A: Congratulations! You have a normal 1-year-old Labrador. You probably have long forgotten what your older retrievers were like when they were yearlings. Retrievers typically don't mature into that lovely, mellow companion stage until over the age of 2 (and in many cases, closer to 4). I live with retrievers. I love retrievers. They're brain-dead until 2, and just about the best dogs in the world at 5.

Get a Chuck-It tennis ball flinger to spare your arm and keep throwing. If the dog's not kept exercised, he'll find something worse to do than pester you.

Keeping retrievers exercised is essential to keeping them happy and you sane. If at all possible, include swimming -- retrieving in water -- in his exercise regiment. Retrievers are made to swim, after all, and a half-hour of swimming wears a dog out like nothing I know.

Q: I read your article on tips for travel with pets. We travel with our schnauzer, so we are familiar with the rules for traveling with a pet.

In your article you state that if you are going to leave your pet alone in the motel room to make sure you offer a biscuit to keep the pet comfortable. It is interesting that you should say that, because in all the hotels and motels we have stayed, we have to sign a notice stating that we are not to leave our pet in the room alone ever. So when we go out to dinner, we always take her with us or we have room service. Could you pass this information on to your readers? -- P.G., via e-mail

A: You didn't get that tip from me. I would never suggest leaving a pet loose and alone in a motel room. If the animal is quiet and well-behaved, it's OK to leave them in the room secured in a crate, but never loose.

Aside from the potential for destructiveness and noise, a pet could escape if hotel staff had to enter the room for some reason. Pets have a higher risk of being lost when in unfamiliar surroundings such as when on a family vacation. That's why I'm a real believer in ID tags (with your cell phone number on them), microchips (for permanent ID), good leashes and study travel crates.

Crates can't be beat as a travel accessory for pets. Although traveling with a crate sized for a large dog can present some packing challenges, including a crate for a small dog vastly increases your flexibility when it comes to travel. With a crate, your dog is on the road with his own safe, comfortable hotel room.

Soft-sided crates are great for carry-on air travel and more casual short trips, but a hard-sided carrier will offer the most options when it comes to keeping your pet safe and secure while on the road. Made of high-impact plastic, hard-sided crates are not expensive to acquire, and they can double as part of your disaster preparation kit, just in case.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET Rx

Check pets often for icky ticks

Although ticks can transmit diseases, they are usually nothing more than a nuisance. The best approach is to prevent them from embedding, or once embedded, to remove them quickly.

The best way to find ticks on your pet is to run your hands over the whole body. Check for ticks every time your pet comes back from somewhere you know is inhabited by ticks. Ticks attach most frequently around the pet's head, ears, neck and feet, but are by no means restricted to those areas.

The safest way to remove a tick is to use rubbing alcohol and a pair of tweezers. Dab rubbing alcohol on the tick, and then use the tweezers to take hold of the tick as close to the dog's skin as you can; pull slowly and steadily. Try not to leave the tick's head embedded in the dog's skin.

Don't squeeze the tick, because it might inject some disease-causing organisms (such as bacteria, viruses or protozoa) into the animal during the process. Risk of disease transmission to you while removing ticks is low, but you should wear gloves if you wish to be perfectly safe. Do not apply hot matches, petroleum jelly, turpentine, nail polish or alcohol to ticks, because these methods do not remove the ticks, and they are not safe for your pet.

Once you have removed a live tick, don't dispose of it until you have killed it. Put the tick in alcohol or insecticide to kill it.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

ON THE WEB

Daily Drool just for basset fans

The folks behind the Daily Drool (www.dailydrool.com) love basset hounds, and they want to share their admiration of the breed with other like-minded people. The well-designed Web site offers everything you could want in the way of information about bassets, along with plenty of entertaining diversions such as e-cards, images and more.

What's the best way to get a basset hound into a vehicle? With a ramp, says the Drool, which offers downloadable directions on how to make one. A definite labor of love, the Web site supports itself and basset rescue through donations and from the proceeds of steering people toward Drool-endorsed books and other products. Either way, it's a good site to support and a good cause, too.

If you have basset hounds, you'll love this online community. Baooowww-woooo!

THE SCOOP

Specialists offer options in veterinary care

Although not as many specialists exist in veterinary medicine as in human medicine, the number and the kinds of certified veterinary experts grow every year.

Current companion-animal specialties include such "system" areas of expertise as cardiology, dentistry, dermatology and oncology. There are also "species" specialists, such as those veterinarians certified as experts on bird health. Behavior specialists are becoming more common as well. These veterinarians help people and their pets work through such problems as house-soiling or separation anxiety with the aid of medication and behavior-modification techniques.

"System" specialties usually require additional study in a two- to five-year residency program, followed by a rigorous examination. These certifications are handled by a board such as the American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine, which is why certified specialists are sometimes referred to as "boarded" or "board-certified."

For veterinarians already in practice, the American Board of Veterinary Practitioners also offers specialty certifications, including those in feline and avian practice. The certifications also require passing a difficult examination.

Many urban centers support independent specialists or specialty practices. But in less populated areas, you're more likely to find a full complement of specialists at the closest university with a school or college of veterinary medicine.

The relationship between your pet's regular veterinarian and a specialist is one of cooperation and trust. Your veterinarian will consult with or refer you to a specialist knowing that when the situation he sent you there for is resolved, you will be sent back to his practice. Without this understanding, your regular veterinarian would be understandably reluctant to refer a client he will not get back.

If your veterinarian is reluctant to refer you to a specialist, remember that the final decision in your pet's care is always yours. Keep the lines of communication open with your veterinarian if you can, but realize your pet's care is your responsibility, and seek a second option or specialist on your own.

BY THE NUMBERS

Pets? No thanks

Interest in and spending on pets has grown in the last couple of decades, but not everyone is rushing to add something furry, feathered or finned to their families. The top five reasons cited (more than one response was allowed) for not wanting a pet include:

Don't want to clean up after a pet 35 percent

Not home enough 33 percent

Shedding 30 percent

Too much responsibility 30 percent

Too expensive 25 percent

Source: American Pet Products Manufacturers Association

PET TIP

Not all birds flock together

The wide range in size of pet birds suggests that keeping some species together is just asking for trouble. Picture the largest macaw with a tiny budgie, and you can see some conflict potential.

If forced to choose just one bird that doesn't mingle well, though, avian experts will usually point to the grey-cheeked parakeet.

The little bird with a big attitude is usually a sweetie with people but is always ready to rumble with other parrots. These cheeky little guys won't shy away from picking a fight with a much larger bird -- which almost certainly leads to injury.

Pay attention to the sizes and the personalities of your birds. And be aware that while some might coexist peacefully, others might need to be housed not just in different cages but in different rooms -- especially if one of your pets is the pugnacious grey-cheeked parakeet.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Screech. Scrape. Crunch. Three sounds you never want to hear, especially in an aging minivan in the middle of a dusty field on the far outskirts of the San Francisco Bay area.

There was a road, sort of, a well-worn strip with two deep ruts on either side of a long rocky berm. Fine for the farm trucks, with their high ground clearance. For a soccer-mom-style minivan? Not so hot.

My Plymouth Voyager, loyal and trusty companion during travels to countless dog events, on dog-accompanied vacations and even two cross-country moves with dogs, was never designed to traverse a rutted cow pasture where retrievers were being trained for hunting competitions. By the end of the day, ol' Forrest Green was dripping something that meant a trip to the mechanic. After nearly a decade, I'm in the market for a new "dogmobile." And I'd like to share the story of my hunt.

As a pet-care columnist, I recognize my family's not typical. For one thing, pets outnumber humans 8-to-1 in my home. Four of those pets are dogs, and three of those are retrievers, which means my life is full of large, friendly and frequently damp animals. We are moderately active in canine competitions, but even on those days when we're not training or competing, it's rare that the dogs and I are not heading somewhere in the van -- a dog park, a river run, a play date with other dog-loving friends.

After I started looking around and talking to fellow dog-lovers, I realized that even though more than 43 million U.S. households have dogs, and most of those people travel with their pets for one reason or another, our needs are mostly an afterthought for carmakers. Ask about pet-friendly features in a new-car showroom, and you'll probably get a blank stare. Years ago, I even had a frustrated salesman inform me I was "stupid" for ruling out an otherwise attractive compact Ford station wagon from contention because the seats wouldn't fold flat.

So I've decided to start a new occasional feature for the Pet Connection reviewing vehicles with an eye to how dog-friendly they are. It seems the place to start is with the question: What makes a good dogmobile?

People who are really into canine competitions, including professional dog handlers and trainers, tend to go customized, with motor homes or trucks with dog boxes. But most of us want our regular vehicle to be our dog hauler as well, so I'm limiting my search to stock vehicles -- wagons, vans and SUVs. Although I may occasionally test-drive a large vehicle (how many dogs can you fit in a Hummer, anyway?), I'm mostly going to be looking at midsize and smaller, with reasonable to good gas mileage.

What really matters in a dogmobile is what's inside. Although small dogs have been gaining, large breeds and mixes are still tops in popularity, and they need room to stretch their legs. Seats that are removable, or stowable to increase cargo space, and interiors that clean up easily top the list of dog-friendly requirements. I'll also be looking for vehicles with specific dog-friendly features, like the optional flip-down dog gate.

Judging from the number of dog-lovers I know who already have one or who are planning to buy one, I know the Honda Element will be in for a good look. The fold-away seats in the cargo area and lack of carpeting make the vehicle perfect for hauling pets and sweeping out the debris afterward.

At some point I figure my patched-up Voyager van will drop dead after one field run too many, and I'll end up buying something. But I'll still keep looking at what's new and what works for people who wouldn't dream of taking a road trip and leaving their dogs behind.

Do you have a thought on what makes a dog car perfect? Do you love your dogmobile? Why? Is there are model you'd like to see featured? Drop me a line at petconnection@gmail.com and I'll get my crack team of test dogs on it. They never miss an opportunity to jump in the car, believe me.

Q&A

Q: I'm an academics-oriented-to-the-point-of-mania student in high school. My dwarf hamster died a few months ago, and I'm very eager to purchase another domesticated rodent.

I've researched rabbits (I know, I know: They're lagomorphs, not rodents) and guinea pigs, and I've come across an unsettling plethora of setbacks. However, I stumbled upon rats, and I'm now smitten. I've read that they're exceptionally intelligent and willing to be handled by humans (two factors I value), and I've simply realized that I'm quite compatible with them.

Unfortunately, my parents are completely averse to keeping a "filthy creature" that could spread an abhorrent plague in "their house," in spite of my fervent assertions that domesticated rats are different than wild rats. My city-bred mother always mentions the fact that rats have infiltrated New York City. She's being so close-minded.

Responsibility isn't an issue, for my parents are completely cognizant of my maturity and dedication. During the school year, I study maniacally, and my parents have always been worried about my unhealthy devotion to my studies. I believe that owning such active pets as rats will calm me during my scholastic frenzies. Could you aid me in this seemingly fruitless quest to persuade my parents? I see a pair of rats in my future. -- P.C., via e-mail

A: I have a feeling that your parents don't stand a chance when you really have your mind set on something. I imagine you will have your rats, and that you will soon have them trained to negotiate mazes, run through tunnels, climb ladders and jump through hoops on your way to winning the state science fair for the best-ever project on operant conditioning and reward-based training techniques.

Like all pets (even dogs and cats), domesticated rats do present some risk of disease transmission, but proper handling, care and sanitation will reduce those risks substantially. Domesticated rats are friendly, easy to train, and much cuter than their wild counterparts, thanks to years of breeding that have introduced all manner of interesting and attractive markings.

I know you won't have any problem presenting a good case to your parents. Just be sure you don't let them see "Willard" on DVD or read the utterly fascinating but unhelpful to your cause book, "Rats: Observations on the History and Habitat of the City's Most Unwanted Inhabitant," by Robert Sullivan ($14.95; Bloomsbury USA).

After they relent, consider adopting a rat from a rescue group or shelter. You can connect with rescue groups through the Rat and Mouse Club of America (www.rmca.org). My favorite sites for rat care information are Rat Guide (www.ratguide.com) and the Rat Fan Club (www.ratfanclub.org).

Q: We have more information on Jack Russell terriers and shedding for your reader. The smooth-coated JRTs will always shed more than the rough- or broken-coated JRTs. As an owner of four of these dogs -- two smooth-coated and two broken-coated -- we know our smooth coats shed quite a bit more than the two fuzzier dogs. We use a stripping comb to take out the undercoat, and a fine-tooth comb on the smooths. Would you pass this along? -- J.C., via e-mail

A: Thanks for the additional information. Aside from the breed-specific points you've made, I think it's important that people be realistic in realizing that shedding is normal for all furry pets.

The best way to keep things neat is to brush and comb pets regularly, keep washable throws on beds and furniture and have lint-rollers handy. And remember, always, that it's neither realistic nor fair to expect life with a dog or cat to be fur-free.

PET TIP

The best way to pick up your cat is to make sure you're not surprising him when you do so. Scoop him up gently under the midsection, and then hold him under the chest with one hand while your other hand supports his hind end. Of course, this only works if your cat is agreeable to being held.

If you want your arms to remain clean of angry red cat tracks, never pick a fight you won't win. If your cat is scared or angry, the best way to hold him is not to. If you're holding a cat who's suddenly in a panic, let go. Once a cat reaches that "flight or fight" threshold, you do not want to be the thing he's trying to defeat or run from. Razor-sharp claws and teeth like hypodermic needles are nothing to mess with. Let go.

If you must get your angry cat under control -- for example, if he's in a dangerous situation -- it's better to throw a blanket or big towel over him and roll him up in a "kitty burrito" until you can get him out of harm's way. If you have no other option, you may be able "scruff" him: Take a firm hold on the loose skin at the nape of the neck and hold on tight.

And don't forget: Cat bites and scratches are nothing to ignore. If you get nailed, call your doctor to have the wounds treated.

PET Rx

In the last decade, the veterinary profession has made huge strides in advancing the proper care of pet rabbits. Rabbit medicine and surgery is taught in an increasing number of veterinary schools, and much more published and lecture material is available to keep in-practice veterinarians up-to-date.

Despite these advances, there is still confusion regarding the use of pain relief for sick or injured rabbits. Some veterinarians do not use pain-relieving medications in their rabbit patients even though they routinely use these drugs in dogs and cats. But pain management is as important to a sick rabbits as it is to any other pet. Chronic moderate to severe pain can slow the healing process in addition to making life miserable.

Like other prey animals, rabbits will try to hide their pain, tending to become immobile in an effort at to hide unusual behavior from any predator. That doesn't mean they're not hurting. There are acceptable pain medications available for rabbits, and these should be given to help these animals with recovery. Talk to your veterinarian!

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

THE SCOOP

Think of perches as replaceable cage furnishings, fighting boredom and keeping your bird comfortable and healthy. The extra labor and cost involved in keeping a fresh variety of perches in the cage is more than offset by the benefits of good perches for your bird.

Dump the dowels that came with the cage, and try some of these perches:

Rope: Great stuff! Rope perches are both comfortable and entertaining. They're easy to clean, too. Just run them through the washer and dryer, or put them in the top rack of your dishwasher. The downside to rope is the possibility of your pet catching a toe on a frayed part of the perch or swallowing loose strands of the rope. Watch closely and replace these perches when the rope gets stringy.

Mineral: Almost every bird should have a mineral perch, also called a concrete or cement perch. The rough texture feels good underfoot, and the surface is great for helping to keep nails blunt and beaks clean and well-groomed (birds like to wipe their beaks against the rough surface). A better option than sandpaper perches.

Plastic: Two kinds of plastic, acrylic and PVC, are both popular because of their sturdiness and relative ease of cleaning. If you choose acrylic, be sure to add other chewable perch options to your bird's environment. In general, acrylic is better than PVC, because the latter can too easily end up causing problems in a bird's stomach. PVC perches are better for supervised use.

Tree branches: Most fruit and nut trees (almond, apple, prune and all citrus) are fine to use, as are ash, elm, dogwood and magnolia. Cut the branches to fit in the cage, check for bugs, scrub with soap, rinse well and air-dry before using.

BY THE NUMBERS

If you're not comfortable feeding live prey to pets, you're probably not meant to keep lizards. Most of these pets like their food live, and their owners accommodate them. According to a 2004 study, top choices for feeding lizards include:

Crickets 72 percent

Worms 34 percent

Fruits/vegetables 31 percent

Dry formula 16 percent

(Source: American Pet Products Manufacturers Assoc.)

PET BOOK

Judy Masrud's "Second Chance: A Tale of Two Puppies" (Birdseed Books, $9.95) is the sometimes preachy but always earnest story of littermates adopted from a shelter by two different families. Andrew trains and socializes his puppy, while Matt loses interest, becomes frustrated, and finally has to agree when his father says the young dog must go back to the shelter.

Masrud marks the places where Matt goes wrong and Andrew steers his puppy into being a well-mannered family pet. Along with the fictional story, the book offers puppy-raising tips to help any youngster who's trying to do right by a new puppy.

The book is for young readers, but it can be shared by any family trying to answer the question, "Should we get a dog?" As "Second Chance" points out, getting a dog is just the beginning when it comes to having the perfect pet.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Modern veterinary care is not inexpensive.

Every day I get complaints from readers who remember when "Good Ol' Doc Jones" patched up their cats for next to nothing. These days, readers complain, many veterinarians want use to available diagnostics to see what's really going on (and reduce risk during anesthesia), suggest newer procedures to fix things that were fatal not that long ago, and pretty much try to do the best job they can with all the advances of the last couple of decades.

Go figure.

I sometimes wince like everyone else when I'm at the veterinarian's, but I'm honestly glad that the days of "Good Ol' Doc Jones" are over and that I have the option of near human-grade care for my pets. However, I'd rather avoid paying for emergencies and chronic illness altogether. Fortunately, if you practice good preventive care with your cat -- which should, of course, include neutering -- you can really keep costs down.

Top strategy for doing so: Close the door on your cat's wandering.

A lot of cat lovers hate hearing this. They've always let their cats roam, and they're reluctant to change. A free-roaming cat seems easier to care for, especially if the outdoors serves as a litter box (a policy that's never fair to or popular with the neighbors).

But the things that can happen to a free-roaming cat can really cost you at the veterinarian's. Outdoor cats are at high risk for poisoning, infectious disease, accidents and attacks, all of which can mean misery for your pet and expensive veterinary costs for you. Tips on converting your cat to a happy indoor life can be found on The Ohio State University Veterinary Hospital's Indoor Cat Initiative's Web site (www.indoorcat.org).

Other strategies for preventive care:

-- Dump the yearly shots. Since the rise of cancer deaths that can be attributed to vaccines, the emphasis has shifted away from automatic annual combination boosters to tailoring the kind and frequency of vaccines to an individual cat. Some vaccines are now given at longer intervals -- every three years is common -- and some are not given at all to cats who are not at high risk for a particular disease.

Skipping annual shots isn't an excuse to skip regular "well-pet" exams, which are a cornerstone of a preventive care program. You can discuss which vaccines are right for your cat during the visit.

-- Keep your cat lean. Too much food and not enough activity puts the pounds on a pet. Excess weight is attributed to any number of health issues in cats, especially diabetes. Don't crash-diet your cat -- it can be deadly. Instead, talk to your veterinarian about a healthy diet that will trim down your cat before the pounds really add up. Add in activity with daily play sessions using a laser-pointer or cat-fishing pole, whatever gets your cat going.

-- Don't forget the teeth. It doesn't hurt to get into a regular routine of brushing or swiping your cat's teeth, and many cats can learn to enjoy or at least tolerate the practice. If their teeth are left alone, cats develop dental problems that can shorten their lives and lesson their quality of life.

-- Practice good grooming. Basic brushing, combing and flea control is a must for preventive care. Keeping your pet parasite-free will make living with your animal much more pleasant (after all, fleas bite people, too). Regular brushing can also help build the bond between you and your cat, and will allow you to notice skin problems and lumps and bumps early.

Five tips for nine lives, all of them guaranteed to save you money and spare your cat. You can't beat that!

Q&A

Coughing? Don't blame the kennel

Q: Our dog started coughing and gagging after we returned from vacation. The vet says it's kennel cough, not that serious. We're glad for that, but don't you think the boarding kennel should refund our money and pay the vet bill? -- M.D., via e-mail

A: I get this question all the time, especially during vacation season. And as I've said before, you really can't blame the kennel any more than you can blame a day-care center for the colds kids pick up there.

Boarding kennels do take a lot of heat over kennel cough, an upper-respiratory infection that is indeed as contagious as sniffles in a day-care center. Some kennel operators find the name a little pejorative, insisting that the ailment be called by its proper name, "canine infectious tracheobronchitis," or even "bordetella," after its most common causative agent.

And maybe that's fair. Dogs can pick up kennel cough any place they come into contact with a dog who has it, and that means anywhere: parks, dog shows, the waiting room of your veterinarian's office, or the fund-raising dog walk thrown by your local humane society. These are all possibilities for infection.

Fortunately, the ailment is not usually serious, as you've been told, even though the dry, bellowing cough can sound simply awful. For most dogs, the disease runs its course in a couple of weeks. Others, especially yappy dogs who keep the airways irritated, may develop an infection that requires antibiotics.

While not completely effective against the ailment, a vaccine is available against it. When your dog goes in for a re-check, ask your veterinarian about it. Many boarding kennels require it, in fact.

Dog vs. bird

Q: I'm thinking about getting a canary or parakeet. I don't have a cat, but I do have a bird dog. What do you think? -- S.P., via e-mail

A: Pets who are on opposite sides of the predator-prey line should never, ever be left unsupervised. It doesn't take much for small pet to get hurt or even killed by a larger one. A friend of mine once had her dog chomp an escaped finch in mid-air. The well-mannered, well-trained dog had never shown much interest in the bird, but couldn't resist a flutter so close to her muzzle. The bird never had a chance.

If you're careful to keep everyone separate and manage all interactions, you should be OK. I have a very happy mixed-species household, and so far, so good. I don't trust the dogs to hang out with the smaller pets, and even if I did, I wouldn't want to stress the birds and rabbits by letting them "dance with the wolves."

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET BUY

Doggles: Cool look for hipster dogs

Do dogs need to protect their eyes from the sun? Probably not. Are products such as Doggles -- goggles for dogs -- worth buying? If you need a laugh, or want to meet some new people, they probably are.

We took Doggles out for a test drive in my brother's convertible, putting the UV-protective silver model (with skull-and-crossbones detailing) on my Sheltie, Drew. The product fit well and seemed comfortable to Drew, who didn't put up much of a fuss about wearing them. The reaction from the drivers around us was hilarious -- pointing, yelling and lots of laughing. You think they'd never seen two middle-aged people and a dog in a T-Bird before.

My brother went in for cool drinks, and a man pulled up beside us in the parking lot. "What a great look," he said to the dog. "Wanna trade shades?" Drew demurred.

The larger set of test Doggles went to a friend whose dog just had eye surgery. We're hoping the product cuts down on the dog's "cone time" post-op.

Doggles come in all sizes and colors, starting at a suggested retail of around $20 a pair (www.doggles.com).

PET Rx

Safer fasteners for pet ID tags

One of the cheapest forms of pet insurance is the ID tag. Check to make sure your pet still has one and that the information is current. And if the tag has an "S" hook fastener, switch it out for an "O"-shaped key ring type of fastener, which you can find at any home-supply store.

"S" hooks tend to catch on things and loosen over time, allowing the tag to fall off. A reader also once shared the story of how one of her dogs got an eyelid caught on the "S" hook of the other dog. The freak accident ripped open the dog's eyelid, required a trip to the emergency veterinary clinic and a couple of stitches.

The veterinarian told the reader the dog was lucky to have escaped permanent damage. It won't take you much money or time to make the change from an "S" hook to an "O"-shaped tag holder. Put it on your to-do list, for the safety of your pet.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

PET TIP

Hypoallergenic pups? It's mostly hype

All dogs have the potential to cause misery in allergy sufferers, no matter the breed or mix, the hair or lack thereof.

The dogs that are reputed to be preferred for allergy sufferers are those with poodle-like coats. The list includes poodles, of course, but also malteses, bichons frise and some doodle-oodle mixes. Some people also believe that dogs with little or no hair, like the Chinese crested, are also good for allergy-sufferers.

The problem with the fur theory is that it's not the fur that causes the problems. Allergies are caused by a substance found in the sebaceous glands in a dog's skin. The substance clings to the skin and hair, and ends up everywhere, resulting in sneezing and wheezing in people with allergies. If you really want a hypoallergenic pet, think reptile, or maybe fish. (Not birds, because feathers and feather dust will get you!)

That said, some breeds seem to be better tolerated by some people with allergies, but reactions vary from person to person and dog to dog. The American Kennel Club suggests 15 breeds that may be easier on allergy sufferers, including the Bedlington terrier, bichon frise, Chinese crested, Irish water spaniel, Kerry blue terrier, Maltese, all three sizes of poodle, Portuguese water dog, all three sizes of schnauzer, soft-coated wheaten terrier and the xoloitzcuintli. (The last one is perhaps more commonly known as the Mexican hairless.)

In general, smaller dogs seem to be less of a problem than larger ones, but that's because smaller dogs put out smaller amounts of allergen. Bathing or even rinsing your dog frequently can help, as can keeping pets out of your bedroom so you can have allergy-free sleep.

And what about that other dog-allergy-related urban myth, that Chihuahuas can cure asthma? That sound you hear is a thousand allergists laughing.

BY THE NUMBERS

Fly away home

You find a dog or cat, and you try to find the owner. That's the way it works, but bird lovers say too often people think "finder's keepers" when it comes to a found bird. In 2004, 7 percent of cockatiel owners reported acquiring the pet when the bird flew into their yard. Other reported ways of getting a cockatiel:

Shelter 3 percent

Bird shop 21 percent

Breeder 23 percent

Friend/relative 43 percent

Pet store 22 percent (a)

Gift 7 percent

Note: Numbers do not add up to 100 percent; (a) includes both traditional small pet stores and pet superstores.

Source: American Pet Products Manufacturers Association

PETS ON THE WEB

Checking out Internet rumors

Anyone with a pet and an e-mail address receives a constant barrage of "warnings" on products that are said to be deadly to pets. The most pervasive in recent years have been warnings on Febreze and Swiffer. Neither product is dangerous to pets, and I've long wondered if these rumors were started as a campaign to hurt the manufacturer. After all, Procter & Gamble has long been the target of animal-rights activists.

It's neither right nor fair to pass on unsubstantiated claims. When you get such an e-mail, don't forward it automatically to 600 of your closest friends. Instead, check it out.

A good general site for rumors is www.snopes.com, which keeps up with all urban myths and e-mail rumors and fairly evaluates them. Specifically for pets, you can usually find out the information from the ASPCA's Animal Poison Control Center (www.aspca.org/APCC).

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

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