Screech. Scrape. Crunch. Three sounds you never want to hear, especially in an aging minivan in the middle of a dusty field on the far outskirts of the San Francisco Bay area.

There was a road, sort of, a well-worn strip with two deep ruts on either side of a long rocky berm. Fine for the farm trucks, with their high ground clearance. For a soccer-mom-style minivan? Not so hot.

My Plymouth Voyager, loyal and trusty companion during travels to countless dog events, on dog-accompanied vacations and even two cross-country moves with dogs, was never designed to traverse a rutted cow pasture where retrievers were being trained for hunting competitions. By the end of the day, ol' Forrest Green was dripping something that meant a trip to the mechanic. After nearly a decade, I'm in the market for a new "dogmobile." And I'd like to share the story of my hunt.

As a pet-care columnist, I recognize my family's not typical. For one thing, pets outnumber humans 8-to-1 in my home. Four of those pets are dogs, and three of those are retrievers, which means my life is full of large, friendly and frequently damp animals. We are moderately active in canine competitions, but even on those days when we're not training or competing, it's rare that the dogs and I are not heading somewhere in the van -- a dog park, a river run, a play date with other dog-loving friends.

After I started looking around and talking to fellow dog-lovers, I realized that even though more than 43 million U.S. households have dogs, and most of those people travel with their pets for one reason or another, our needs are mostly an afterthought for carmakers. Ask about pet-friendly features in a new-car showroom, and you'll probably get a blank stare. Years ago, I even had a frustrated salesman inform me I was "stupid" for ruling out an otherwise attractive compact Ford station wagon from contention because the seats wouldn't fold flat.

So I've decided to start a new occasional feature for the Pet Connection reviewing vehicles with an eye to how dog-friendly they are. It seems the place to start is with the question: What makes a good dogmobile?

People who are really into canine competitions, including professional dog handlers and trainers, tend to go customized, with motor homes or trucks with dog boxes. But most of us want our regular vehicle to be our dog hauler as well, so I'm limiting my search to stock vehicles -- wagons, vans and SUVs. Although I may occasionally test-drive a large vehicle (how many dogs can you fit in a Hummer, anyway?), I'm mostly going to be looking at midsize and smaller, with reasonable to good gas mileage.

What really matters in a dogmobile is what's inside. Although small dogs have been gaining, large breeds and mixes are still tops in popularity, and they need room to stretch their legs. Seats that are removable, or stowable to increase cargo space, and interiors that clean up easily top the list of dog-friendly requirements. I'll also be looking for vehicles with specific dog-friendly features, like the optional flip-down dog gate.

Judging from the number of dog-lovers I know who already have one or who are planning to buy one, I know the Honda Element will be in for a good look. The fold-away seats in the cargo area and lack of carpeting make the vehicle perfect for hauling pets and sweeping out the debris afterward.

At some point I figure my patched-up Voyager van will drop dead after one field run too many, and I'll end up buying something. But I'll still keep looking at what's new and what works for people who wouldn't dream of taking a road trip and leaving their dogs behind.

Do you have a thought on what makes a dog car perfect? Do you love your dogmobile? Why? Is there are model you'd like to see featured? Drop me a line at petconnection@gmail.com and I'll get my crack team of test dogs on it. They never miss an opportunity to jump in the car, believe me.

Q&A

Q: I'm an academics-oriented-to-the-point-of-mania student in high school. My dwarf hamster died a few months ago, and I'm very eager to purchase another domesticated rodent.

I've researched rabbits (I know, I know: They're lagomorphs, not rodents) and guinea pigs, and I've come across an unsettling plethora of setbacks. However, I stumbled upon rats, and I'm now smitten. I've read that they're exceptionally intelligent and willing to be handled by humans (two factors I value), and I've simply realized that I'm quite compatible with them.

Unfortunately, my parents are completely averse to keeping a "filthy creature" that could spread an abhorrent plague in "their house," in spite of my fervent assertions that domesticated rats are different than wild rats. My city-bred mother always mentions the fact that rats have infiltrated New York City. She's being so close-minded.

Responsibility isn't an issue, for my parents are completely cognizant of my maturity and dedication. During the school year, I study maniacally, and my parents have always been worried about my unhealthy devotion to my studies. I believe that owning such active pets as rats will calm me during my scholastic frenzies. Could you aid me in this seemingly fruitless quest to persuade my parents? I see a pair of rats in my future. -- P.C., via e-mail

A: I have a feeling that your parents don't stand a chance when you really have your mind set on something. I imagine you will have your rats, and that you will soon have them trained to negotiate mazes, run through tunnels, climb ladders and jump through hoops on your way to winning the state science fair for the best-ever project on operant conditioning and reward-based training techniques.

Like all pets (even dogs and cats), domesticated rats do present some risk of disease transmission, but proper handling, care and sanitation will reduce those risks substantially. Domesticated rats are friendly, easy to train, and much cuter than their wild counterparts, thanks to years of breeding that have introduced all manner of interesting and attractive markings.

I know you won't have any problem presenting a good case to your parents. Just be sure you don't let them see "Willard" on DVD or read the utterly fascinating but unhelpful to your cause book, "Rats: Observations on the History and Habitat of the City's Most Unwanted Inhabitant," by Robert Sullivan ($14.95; Bloomsbury USA).

After they relent, consider adopting a rat from a rescue group or shelter. You can connect with rescue groups through the Rat and Mouse Club of America (www.rmca.org). My favorite sites for rat care information are Rat Guide (www.ratguide.com) and the Rat Fan Club (www.ratfanclub.org).

Q: We have more information on Jack Russell terriers and shedding for your reader. The smooth-coated JRTs will always shed more than the rough- or broken-coated JRTs. As an owner of four of these dogs -- two smooth-coated and two broken-coated -- we know our smooth coats shed quite a bit more than the two fuzzier dogs. We use a stripping comb to take out the undercoat, and a fine-tooth comb on the smooths. Would you pass this along? -- J.C., via e-mail

A: Thanks for the additional information. Aside from the breed-specific points you've made, I think it's important that people be realistic in realizing that shedding is normal for all furry pets.

The best way to keep things neat is to brush and comb pets regularly, keep washable throws on beds and furniture and have lint-rollers handy. And remember, always, that it's neither realistic nor fair to expect life with a dog or cat to be fur-free.

PET TIP

The best way to pick up your cat is to make sure you're not surprising him when you do so. Scoop him up gently under the midsection, and then hold him under the chest with one hand while your other hand supports his hind end. Of course, this only works if your cat is agreeable to being held.

If you want your arms to remain clean of angry red cat tracks, never pick a fight you won't win. If your cat is scared or angry, the best way to hold him is not to. If you're holding a cat who's suddenly in a panic, let go. Once a cat reaches that "flight or fight" threshold, you do not want to be the thing he's trying to defeat or run from. Razor-sharp claws and teeth like hypodermic needles are nothing to mess with. Let go.

If you must get your angry cat under control -- for example, if he's in a dangerous situation -- it's better to throw a blanket or big towel over him and roll him up in a "kitty burrito" until you can get him out of harm's way. If you have no other option, you may be able "scruff" him: Take a firm hold on the loose skin at the nape of the neck and hold on tight.

And don't forget: Cat bites and scratches are nothing to ignore. If you get nailed, call your doctor to have the wounds treated.

PET Rx

In the last decade, the veterinary profession has made huge strides in advancing the proper care of pet rabbits. Rabbit medicine and surgery is taught in an increasing number of veterinary schools, and much more published and lecture material is available to keep in-practice veterinarians up-to-date.

Despite these advances, there is still confusion regarding the use of pain relief for sick or injured rabbits. Some veterinarians do not use pain-relieving medications in their rabbit patients even though they routinely use these drugs in dogs and cats. But pain management is as important to a sick rabbits as it is to any other pet. Chronic moderate to severe pain can slow the healing process in addition to making life miserable.

Like other prey animals, rabbits will try to hide their pain, tending to become immobile in an effort at to hide unusual behavior from any predator. That doesn't mean they're not hurting. There are acceptable pain medications available for rabbits, and these should be given to help these animals with recovery. Talk to your veterinarian!

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

THE SCOOP

Think of perches as replaceable cage furnishings, fighting boredom and keeping your bird comfortable and healthy. The extra labor and cost involved in keeping a fresh variety of perches in the cage is more than offset by the benefits of good perches for your bird.

Dump the dowels that came with the cage, and try some of these perches:

Rope: Great stuff! Rope perches are both comfortable and entertaining. They're easy to clean, too. Just run them through the washer and dryer, or put them in the top rack of your dishwasher. The downside to rope is the possibility of your pet catching a toe on a frayed part of the perch or swallowing loose strands of the rope. Watch closely and replace these perches when the rope gets stringy.

Mineral: Almost every bird should have a mineral perch, also called a concrete or cement perch. The rough texture feels good underfoot, and the surface is great for helping to keep nails blunt and beaks clean and well-groomed (birds like to wipe their beaks against the rough surface). A better option than sandpaper perches.

Plastic: Two kinds of plastic, acrylic and PVC, are both popular because of their sturdiness and relative ease of cleaning. If you choose acrylic, be sure to add other chewable perch options to your bird's environment. In general, acrylic is better than PVC, because the latter can too easily end up causing problems in a bird's stomach. PVC perches are better for supervised use.

Tree branches: Most fruit and nut trees (almond, apple, prune and all citrus) are fine to use, as are ash, elm, dogwood and magnolia. Cut the branches to fit in the cage, check for bugs, scrub with soap, rinse well and air-dry before using.

BY THE NUMBERS

If you're not comfortable feeding live prey to pets, you're probably not meant to keep lizards. Most of these pets like their food live, and their owners accommodate them. According to a 2004 study, top choices for feeding lizards include:

Crickets 72 percent

Worms 34 percent

Fruits/vegetables 31 percent

Dry formula 16 percent

(Source: American Pet Products Manufacturers Assoc.)

PET BOOK

Judy Masrud's "Second Chance: A Tale of Two Puppies" (Birdseed Books, $9.95) is the sometimes preachy but always earnest story of littermates adopted from a shelter by two different families. Andrew trains and socializes his puppy, while Matt loses interest, becomes frustrated, and finally has to agree when his father says the young dog must go back to the shelter.

Masrud marks the places where Matt goes wrong and Andrew steers his puppy into being a well-mannered family pet. Along with the fictional story, the book offers puppy-raising tips to help any youngster who's trying to do right by a new puppy.

The book is for young readers, but it can be shared by any family trying to answer the question, "Should we get a dog?" As "Second Chance" points out, getting a dog is just the beginning when it comes to having the perfect pet.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Modern veterinary care is not inexpensive.

Every day I get complaints from readers who remember when "Good Ol' Doc Jones" patched up their cats for next to nothing. These days, readers complain, many veterinarians want use to available diagnostics to see what's really going on (and reduce risk during anesthesia), suggest newer procedures to fix things that were fatal not that long ago, and pretty much try to do the best job they can with all the advances of the last couple of decades.

Go figure.

I sometimes wince like everyone else when I'm at the veterinarian's, but I'm honestly glad that the days of "Good Ol' Doc Jones" are over and that I have the option of near human-grade care for my pets. However, I'd rather avoid paying for emergencies and chronic illness altogether. Fortunately, if you practice good preventive care with your cat -- which should, of course, include neutering -- you can really keep costs down.

Top strategy for doing so: Close the door on your cat's wandering.

A lot of cat lovers hate hearing this. They've always let their cats roam, and they're reluctant to change. A free-roaming cat seems easier to care for, especially if the outdoors serves as a litter box (a policy that's never fair to or popular with the neighbors).

But the things that can happen to a free-roaming cat can really cost you at the veterinarian's. Outdoor cats are at high risk for poisoning, infectious disease, accidents and attacks, all of which can mean misery for your pet and expensive veterinary costs for you. Tips on converting your cat to a happy indoor life can be found on The Ohio State University Veterinary Hospital's Indoor Cat Initiative's Web site (www.indoorcat.org).

Other strategies for preventive care:

-- Dump the yearly shots. Since the rise of cancer deaths that can be attributed to vaccines, the emphasis has shifted away from automatic annual combination boosters to tailoring the kind and frequency of vaccines to an individual cat. Some vaccines are now given at longer intervals -- every three years is common -- and some are not given at all to cats who are not at high risk for a particular disease.

Skipping annual shots isn't an excuse to skip regular "well-pet" exams, which are a cornerstone of a preventive care program. You can discuss which vaccines are right for your cat during the visit.

-- Keep your cat lean. Too much food and not enough activity puts the pounds on a pet. Excess weight is attributed to any number of health issues in cats, especially diabetes. Don't crash-diet your cat -- it can be deadly. Instead, talk to your veterinarian about a healthy diet that will trim down your cat before the pounds really add up. Add in activity with daily play sessions using a laser-pointer or cat-fishing pole, whatever gets your cat going.

-- Don't forget the teeth. It doesn't hurt to get into a regular routine of brushing or swiping your cat's teeth, and many cats can learn to enjoy or at least tolerate the practice. If their teeth are left alone, cats develop dental problems that can shorten their lives and lesson their quality of life.

-- Practice good grooming. Basic brushing, combing and flea control is a must for preventive care. Keeping your pet parasite-free will make living with your animal much more pleasant (after all, fleas bite people, too). Regular brushing can also help build the bond between you and your cat, and will allow you to notice skin problems and lumps and bumps early.

Five tips for nine lives, all of them guaranteed to save you money and spare your cat. You can't beat that!

Q&A

Coughing? Don't blame the kennel

Q: Our dog started coughing and gagging after we returned from vacation. The vet says it's kennel cough, not that serious. We're glad for that, but don't you think the boarding kennel should refund our money and pay the vet bill? -- M.D., via e-mail

A: I get this question all the time, especially during vacation season. And as I've said before, you really can't blame the kennel any more than you can blame a day-care center for the colds kids pick up there.

Boarding kennels do take a lot of heat over kennel cough, an upper-respiratory infection that is indeed as contagious as sniffles in a day-care center. Some kennel operators find the name a little pejorative, insisting that the ailment be called by its proper name, "canine infectious tracheobronchitis," or even "bordetella," after its most common causative agent.

And maybe that's fair. Dogs can pick up kennel cough any place they come into contact with a dog who has it, and that means anywhere: parks, dog shows, the waiting room of your veterinarian's office, or the fund-raising dog walk thrown by your local humane society. These are all possibilities for infection.

Fortunately, the ailment is not usually serious, as you've been told, even though the dry, bellowing cough can sound simply awful. For most dogs, the disease runs its course in a couple of weeks. Others, especially yappy dogs who keep the airways irritated, may develop an infection that requires antibiotics.

While not completely effective against the ailment, a vaccine is available against it. When your dog goes in for a re-check, ask your veterinarian about it. Many boarding kennels require it, in fact.

Dog vs. bird

Q: I'm thinking about getting a canary or parakeet. I don't have a cat, but I do have a bird dog. What do you think? -- S.P., via e-mail

A: Pets who are on opposite sides of the predator-prey line should never, ever be left unsupervised. It doesn't take much for small pet to get hurt or even killed by a larger one. A friend of mine once had her dog chomp an escaped finch in mid-air. The well-mannered, well-trained dog had never shown much interest in the bird, but couldn't resist a flutter so close to her muzzle. The bird never had a chance.

If you're careful to keep everyone separate and manage all interactions, you should be OK. I have a very happy mixed-species household, and so far, so good. I don't trust the dogs to hang out with the smaller pets, and even if I did, I wouldn't want to stress the birds and rabbits by letting them "dance with the wolves."

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET BUY

Doggles: Cool look for hipster dogs

Do dogs need to protect their eyes from the sun? Probably not. Are products such as Doggles -- goggles for dogs -- worth buying? If you need a laugh, or want to meet some new people, they probably are.

We took Doggles out for a test drive in my brother's convertible, putting the UV-protective silver model (with skull-and-crossbones detailing) on my Sheltie, Drew. The product fit well and seemed comfortable to Drew, who didn't put up much of a fuss about wearing them. The reaction from the drivers around us was hilarious -- pointing, yelling and lots of laughing. You think they'd never seen two middle-aged people and a dog in a T-Bird before.

My brother went in for cool drinks, and a man pulled up beside us in the parking lot. "What a great look," he said to the dog. "Wanna trade shades?" Drew demurred.

The larger set of test Doggles went to a friend whose dog just had eye surgery. We're hoping the product cuts down on the dog's "cone time" post-op.

Doggles come in all sizes and colors, starting at a suggested retail of around $20 a pair (www.doggles.com).

PET Rx

Safer fasteners for pet ID tags

One of the cheapest forms of pet insurance is the ID tag. Check to make sure your pet still has one and that the information is current. And if the tag has an "S" hook fastener, switch it out for an "O"-shaped key ring type of fastener, which you can find at any home-supply store.

"S" hooks tend to catch on things and loosen over time, allowing the tag to fall off. A reader also once shared the story of how one of her dogs got an eyelid caught on the "S" hook of the other dog. The freak accident ripped open the dog's eyelid, required a trip to the emergency veterinary clinic and a couple of stitches.

The veterinarian told the reader the dog was lucky to have escaped permanent damage. It won't take you much money or time to make the change from an "S" hook to an "O"-shaped tag holder. Put it on your to-do list, for the safety of your pet.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

PET TIP

Hypoallergenic pups? It's mostly hype

All dogs have the potential to cause misery in allergy sufferers, no matter the breed or mix, the hair or lack thereof.

The dogs that are reputed to be preferred for allergy sufferers are those with poodle-like coats. The list includes poodles, of course, but also malteses, bichons frise and some doodle-oodle mixes. Some people also believe that dogs with little or no hair, like the Chinese crested, are also good for allergy-sufferers.

The problem with the fur theory is that it's not the fur that causes the problems. Allergies are caused by a substance found in the sebaceous glands in a dog's skin. The substance clings to the skin and hair, and ends up everywhere, resulting in sneezing and wheezing in people with allergies. If you really want a hypoallergenic pet, think reptile, or maybe fish. (Not birds, because feathers and feather dust will get you!)

That said, some breeds seem to be better tolerated by some people with allergies, but reactions vary from person to person and dog to dog. The American Kennel Club suggests 15 breeds that may be easier on allergy sufferers, including the Bedlington terrier, bichon frise, Chinese crested, Irish water spaniel, Kerry blue terrier, Maltese, all three sizes of poodle, Portuguese water dog, all three sizes of schnauzer, soft-coated wheaten terrier and the xoloitzcuintli. (The last one is perhaps more commonly known as the Mexican hairless.)

In general, smaller dogs seem to be less of a problem than larger ones, but that's because smaller dogs put out smaller amounts of allergen. Bathing or even rinsing your dog frequently can help, as can keeping pets out of your bedroom so you can have allergy-free sleep.

And what about that other dog-allergy-related urban myth, that Chihuahuas can cure asthma? That sound you hear is a thousand allergists laughing.

BY THE NUMBERS

Fly away home

You find a dog or cat, and you try to find the owner. That's the way it works, but bird lovers say too often people think "finder's keepers" when it comes to a found bird. In 2004, 7 percent of cockatiel owners reported acquiring the pet when the bird flew into their yard. Other reported ways of getting a cockatiel:

Shelter 3 percent

Bird shop 21 percent

Breeder 23 percent

Friend/relative 43 percent

Pet store 22 percent (a)

Gift 7 percent

Note: Numbers do not add up to 100 percent; (a) includes both traditional small pet stores and pet superstores.

Source: American Pet Products Manufacturers Association

PETS ON THE WEB

Checking out Internet rumors

Anyone with a pet and an e-mail address receives a constant barrage of "warnings" on products that are said to be deadly to pets. The most pervasive in recent years have been warnings on Febreze and Swiffer. Neither product is dangerous to pets, and I've long wondered if these rumors were started as a campaign to hurt the manufacturer. After all, Procter & Gamble has long been the target of animal-rights activists.

It's neither right nor fair to pass on unsubstantiated claims. When you get such an e-mail, don't forward it automatically to 600 of your closest friends. Instead, check it out.

A good general site for rumors is www.snopes.com, which keeps up with all urban myths and e-mail rumors and fairly evaluates them. Specifically for pets, you can usually find out the information from the ASPCA's Animal Poison Control Center (www.aspca.org/APCC).

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

More households have dogs than cats, but cats far outnumber dogs as pets. How is this possible? Because many cat lovers believe that when it comes to feline friends, one is simply not enough. Single-dog households are routine, but with cats, the more the merrier!

If you've ever thought about getting a companion for your cat, there's no time like now. Kittens are everywhere, and healthy, well-mannered adults are also in good supply. You're sure to find the perfect pal for your cat with a trip or two to the shelter.

And then, the fun begins.

Introducing cats is a delicate operation, with lots of pitfalls along the way. Some cats hide under the bed. Some stop using the litter box. Efforts to soothe others may be greeted with a hiss or a growl, or even a swipe with claws bared.

While these are all normal feline reactions to stress, the bad habits that cats may develop while coming to terms with something new could become a permanent part of their routine. Introducing a second cat to the household is a time when patience is never more important.

If you don't have a cat yet and know you'll eventually want two, it's easiest to adopt two kittens at the same time, preferably from the same litter. Kittens don't have the sense of territory that grown cats have, and they'll settle down together into a new home nicely. (Adopting a pair of bonded adults is also a great idea!)

But even a solitary adult cat can learn to enjoy living with a companion. Since the worst territorial spats -- complete with urine marking -- are between cats who aren't spayed or neutered, your chances for peaceful coexistence are many times greater if the cats are both altered before any introductions are planned. (Yes, kittens can be altered. No need to wait!)

Prepare a room for your new pet, with food and water bowls, and a litter box and scratching post that needn't be shared. (Separate gear may be a temporary arrangement, or it may be lifelong. It all depends on the cats involved.) This separate room will be your new pet's home turf while the two cats get used to each other's existence.

Take your new cat or kitten to your veterinarian first, and have him checked for parasites such as ear mites and contagious diseases such as feline leukemia. When you're sure your new pet is healthy, the introductions can begin.

Bring the cat home in a carrier and set it in the room you've prepared. Let your resident cat discover the caged animal, and don't be discouraged by initial hisses. Let your resident cat explore, and when the new cat is alone in the room, close the door and let him out of the carrier. If he doesn't want to leave the carrier at first, let him be. Just leave the carrier door open and the cat alone.

Maintain each pet separately for a week or so -- with lots of love and play for both -- and then on a day when you're around to observe, leave the door to the new cat's room open. Don't force them together. Territory negotiations between cats can be drawn-out and delicate, and you must let them work it out on their own, ignoring the hisses and glares. And when your new pet is a kitten, your older cat may get to the point of just having enough of the little pest. Be alert for signs of intolerance, and give your older cat constant breaks from the youngster.

Eventually you can encourage them both to play with you, using a cat "fishing pole" or a toy on a string. And slowly feed them in ever-closer proximity.

Most cats, but not all, will eventually learn to live together happily. When you see your two sleeping together, playing or grooming each other tenderly, you'll know the effort was worth it.

SIDEBAR

Litter boxes: The no-share zone

Even cats who get along well otherwise, who share the home and the people in it and enjoy each other's company may have one area of dispute -- the litter box. Behaviorists generally recommend that cats not be asked to share.

A rule to remember: One litter box per cat, plus one more. That way, each cat has a box to call his own, plus an extra when room service hasn't stayed on top of the cleaning. Preventing litter box problems is always easier than correcting and cleaning up after them.

Q&A

Tips for travel with dog in tow

Q: We enjoyed your column about traveling with a dog. My husband and I have been traveling with dogs for many years. Would you like some more suggestions?

Most dogs who travel are small. A large-mouthed thermos is great for carrying water in the car. Most small dogs can drink out of the thermos lid, and it can be washed out and refilled every night in the motel.

Because many small dogs often sleep on the bed at home, carry a large sheet and cover the bed as soon as you check in. Think of the people who follow you!

Carry a small sheet of plastic -- or even use the motel laundry bag. Put this under the dog's water and food dishes, just in case of spills.

Measure out your dog's meals and put them in small Ziploc bags. Make as many meals as he will need on the road, and it will make feeding time very easy.

A crate is a necessity on the road. Be sure your dog is comfortable with his crate at home. A treat in it now and then with the door always open makes it "his world."

To leave your dog in a strange room full of strange smells is very frightening for him, and he will either scratch the door to try to find you, or he'll bark his head off. But with a biscuit in his crate and the motel room door shut to keep him comfortable, he will be quite content in his familiar surroundings, and you may go out to dinner knowing this.

These things work well for Skye, our little cairn terrier, and we hope they help others. -- P.B., via e-mail

A: Your suggestions are excellent, and I like your emphasis on being considerate toward others. The best way I know of to turn a pet-friendly motel into a "no pets" zone is for pet lovers to abuse their privileges.

A final note: Anyone traveling with a dog should pick up after the pet. No excuses. Keep cleanup bags in your pocket -- plastic grocery bags work great -- so you're always ready to stoop for poop.

Screens for bugs only

Q: I'm concerned that you may have inadvertently led some cat people down the garden path with your recommendation to put screens in windows to prevent cats from falling out. I have worked in the window and door industry since 1982, and I am a sales rep for a manufacturer of retractable screens.

Window screens are designed to keep bugs out and are not at all effective at keeping pets or children in. In fact, all new windows that are sold in the United States with screens attached come with a warning to that effect. Built-in screens snap into place with a spring and can easily be snapped out by the force of a pet hitting the screen. Will you please let people know not to count on screens to protect their pets? -- S.C., via e-mail

A: Your point is well-taken and, in fact, I don't think anyone would imagine a screen could withstand much force. But I think the ASPCA's point in suggesting screens is that a visible physical barrier is better than a window with nothing on it at all.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET BUY

Pets should work for food

One of the best trends in toys for pets is the move toward making animals work for their meals.

In the wild, animals have to spend their lives finding food. In our homes, they're likely handed all they need in a dish. But behaviorists say having to work for food can help prevent both boredom and obesity. Food puzzles have long been available for smart pets like parrots, but the trend has more recently expanded to include all caged pets, and even cats and dogs.

Food puzzles are available from many different manufacturers, or you can make your own. Typical puzzles are loaded with bits of food and then given to pets who must work to figure out how to get the toy to give up the goodies. The amount of time spent working for the food slows down eating, provides entertainment and exercise, and helps to prevent the behavior problems that sometimes result from boredom.

Check out the pet-care catalogs for products or ideas, or just use your imagination. For example, just stuffing treats and hay into the empty core of a paper-towel roll can keep a pet rabbit busy and happy.

PET TIP

Cool water must be kept at hand

There's nothing more important to a pet in hot weather than shade and a constant supply of cool, fresh water. Keep water cool by adding ice chips or cubes to the water supply of smaller pets, and ice blocks for larger animals. Ice blocks can be made easily by freezing water in used margarine tubs.

Water fouls quickly in warm weather. Don't just add clean water to dirty water that's sitting in a filthy bowl -- scrub and refill the dish a couple of times a day.

Automatic water dispensers can be helpful. For caged pets, check to be sure that the delivery tube isn't clogged, blocking the flow of water (some parrots think it's a game to push food into the tube).

If you have one of those automatic water dispensers for dogs that attaches to an outside faucet, be sure it's always shaded. Otherwise, the metal can heat up to the point that it cannot be touched by a thirsty pet.

THE SCOOP

To dogs, a stinky smell is irresistible

You know those sprays and plug-ins you use to make the house smell fresh? Your dog is not impressed. If your dog were choosing a scent to make the house smell perfect, he might pick Old Dead Squirrel or Pile of Cat Mess.

As much as we love our dogs, we have a difference of opinion when it comes to defining what smells "good." Considering how much better a sense of smell dogs have than we do, who's to say which species is right about what smells the best?

People like to put on nice scents, and so do dogs, who roll around in odors we can't stand.

One theory on stink-rolling is that it represents a canine celebration of abundance, like a person who won the lottery throwing hundred-dollar bills all over the bed and "rolling in dough." Now and then a dog will encounter a rewarding tidbit with a pungent smell, like a person finding a twenty-dollar bill on the ground. Sweet! But to discover an entire rotting fish or other large pile of nastiness often triggers the urge to celebrate with a hearty roll.

There's a survival element, too. For a hunting animal, there's a tactical advantage to not smelling like a predator. Rolling in strong odors -- feces and even dead animals -- is thought to provide scent cover, to help predators land their lunch a little easier.

Of course, none of our pet dogs have to hunt for their supper, but old instincts never really go away. That's why if there's a bad smell available, there's a good dog happy to roll in it -- and not long after, a spoilsport human with warm water and soap ready to ruin it all, from the dog's point of view.

PETS BY THE NUMBERS

Changing attitudes

A survey commissioned by the Best Friends Animal Sanctuary (www.bestfriends.org) provides further evidence that animals are considered a more important part of our lives now. Still, the results show that feelings don't always equal action. Among the findings:

-- Do you consider your pet property or a family member? (69 percent said "family member")

-- Do we have a moral obligation to protect animals? (92 percent said "yes")

-- Would you take a hurt animal to the veterinarian? (48 percent said "yes")

-- Do you volunteer or contribute money to an animal shelter? (54 percent said "yes")

PET Rx

Sharing beer an awful idea

Summer is party time, and that often means alcohol. While drinking in moderation is part of many a summer get-together, the ASPCA's Animal Poison Control Center warns that pets should never be encouraged or allowed to share. So even if your dog likes beer and you think it's funny to let him drink it, you're taking a chance with his life to do so.

The APCC also warns that citronella candles, coils and oils -- used to keep insects at bay -- should also be kept out of reach of curious pets, as should matches.

More information on summer poisoning risks is on the APCC's Web site (www.aspca.org/apcc). You can also order a free magnet with the center's phone number on it.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600