More households have dogs than cats, but cats far outnumber dogs as pets. How is this possible? Because many cat lovers believe that when it comes to feline friends, one is simply not enough. Single-dog households are routine, but with cats, the more the merrier!

If you've ever thought about getting a companion for your cat, there's no time like now. Kittens are everywhere, and healthy, well-mannered adults are also in good supply. You're sure to find the perfect pal for your cat with a trip or two to the shelter.

And then, the fun begins.

Introducing cats is a delicate operation, with lots of pitfalls along the way. Some cats hide under the bed. Some stop using the litter box. Efforts to soothe others may be greeted with a hiss or a growl, or even a swipe with claws bared.

While these are all normal feline reactions to stress, the bad habits that cats may develop while coming to terms with something new could become a permanent part of their routine. Introducing a second cat to the household is a time when patience is never more important.

If you don't have a cat yet and know you'll eventually want two, it's easiest to adopt two kittens at the same time, preferably from the same litter. Kittens don't have the sense of territory that grown cats have, and they'll settle down together into a new home nicely. (Adopting a pair of bonded adults is also a great idea!)

But even a solitary adult cat can learn to enjoy living with a companion. Since the worst territorial spats -- complete with urine marking -- are between cats who aren't spayed or neutered, your chances for peaceful coexistence are many times greater if the cats are both altered before any introductions are planned. (Yes, kittens can be altered. No need to wait!)

Prepare a room for your new pet, with food and water bowls, and a litter box and scratching post that needn't be shared. (Separate gear may be a temporary arrangement, or it may be lifelong. It all depends on the cats involved.) This separate room will be your new pet's home turf while the two cats get used to each other's existence.

Take your new cat or kitten to your veterinarian first, and have him checked for parasites such as ear mites and contagious diseases such as feline leukemia. When you're sure your new pet is healthy, the introductions can begin.

Bring the cat home in a carrier and set it in the room you've prepared. Let your resident cat discover the caged animal, and don't be discouraged by initial hisses. Let your resident cat explore, and when the new cat is alone in the room, close the door and let him out of the carrier. If he doesn't want to leave the carrier at first, let him be. Just leave the carrier door open and the cat alone.

Maintain each pet separately for a week or so -- with lots of love and play for both -- and then on a day when you're around to observe, leave the door to the new cat's room open. Don't force them together. Territory negotiations between cats can be drawn-out and delicate, and you must let them work it out on their own, ignoring the hisses and glares. And when your new pet is a kitten, your older cat may get to the point of just having enough of the little pest. Be alert for signs of intolerance, and give your older cat constant breaks from the youngster.

Eventually you can encourage them both to play with you, using a cat "fishing pole" or a toy on a string. And slowly feed them in ever-closer proximity.

Most cats, but not all, will eventually learn to live together happily. When you see your two sleeping together, playing or grooming each other tenderly, you'll know the effort was worth it.

SIDEBAR

Litter boxes: The no-share zone

Even cats who get along well otherwise, who share the home and the people in it and enjoy each other's company may have one area of dispute -- the litter box. Behaviorists generally recommend that cats not be asked to share.

A rule to remember: One litter box per cat, plus one more. That way, each cat has a box to call his own, plus an extra when room service hasn't stayed on top of the cleaning. Preventing litter box problems is always easier than correcting and cleaning up after them.

Q&A

Tips for travel with dog in tow

Q: We enjoyed your column about traveling with a dog. My husband and I have been traveling with dogs for many years. Would you like some more suggestions?

Most dogs who travel are small. A large-mouthed thermos is great for carrying water in the car. Most small dogs can drink out of the thermos lid, and it can be washed out and refilled every night in the motel.

Because many small dogs often sleep on the bed at home, carry a large sheet and cover the bed as soon as you check in. Think of the people who follow you!

Carry a small sheet of plastic -- or even use the motel laundry bag. Put this under the dog's water and food dishes, just in case of spills.

Measure out your dog's meals and put them in small Ziploc bags. Make as many meals as he will need on the road, and it will make feeding time very easy.

A crate is a necessity on the road. Be sure your dog is comfortable with his crate at home. A treat in it now and then with the door always open makes it "his world."

To leave your dog in a strange room full of strange smells is very frightening for him, and he will either scratch the door to try to find you, or he'll bark his head off. But with a biscuit in his crate and the motel room door shut to keep him comfortable, he will be quite content in his familiar surroundings, and you may go out to dinner knowing this.

These things work well for Skye, our little cairn terrier, and we hope they help others. -- P.B., via e-mail

A: Your suggestions are excellent, and I like your emphasis on being considerate toward others. The best way I know of to turn a pet-friendly motel into a "no pets" zone is for pet lovers to abuse their privileges.

A final note: Anyone traveling with a dog should pick up after the pet. No excuses. Keep cleanup bags in your pocket -- plastic grocery bags work great -- so you're always ready to stoop for poop.

Screens for bugs only

Q: I'm concerned that you may have inadvertently led some cat people down the garden path with your recommendation to put screens in windows to prevent cats from falling out. I have worked in the window and door industry since 1982, and I am a sales rep for a manufacturer of retractable screens.

Window screens are designed to keep bugs out and are not at all effective at keeping pets or children in. In fact, all new windows that are sold in the United States with screens attached come with a warning to that effect. Built-in screens snap into place with a spring and can easily be snapped out by the force of a pet hitting the screen. Will you please let people know not to count on screens to protect their pets? -- S.C., via e-mail

A: Your point is well-taken and, in fact, I don't think anyone would imagine a screen could withstand much force. But I think the ASPCA's point in suggesting screens is that a visible physical barrier is better than a window with nothing on it at all.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET BUY

Pets should work for food

One of the best trends in toys for pets is the move toward making animals work for their meals.

In the wild, animals have to spend their lives finding food. In our homes, they're likely handed all they need in a dish. But behaviorists say having to work for food can help prevent both boredom and obesity. Food puzzles have long been available for smart pets like parrots, but the trend has more recently expanded to include all caged pets, and even cats and dogs.

Food puzzles are available from many different manufacturers, or you can make your own. Typical puzzles are loaded with bits of food and then given to pets who must work to figure out how to get the toy to give up the goodies. The amount of time spent working for the food slows down eating, provides entertainment and exercise, and helps to prevent the behavior problems that sometimes result from boredom.

Check out the pet-care catalogs for products or ideas, or just use your imagination. For example, just stuffing treats and hay into the empty core of a paper-towel roll can keep a pet rabbit busy and happy.

PET TIP

Cool water must be kept at hand

There's nothing more important to a pet in hot weather than shade and a constant supply of cool, fresh water. Keep water cool by adding ice chips or cubes to the water supply of smaller pets, and ice blocks for larger animals. Ice blocks can be made easily by freezing water in used margarine tubs.

Water fouls quickly in warm weather. Don't just add clean water to dirty water that's sitting in a filthy bowl -- scrub and refill the dish a couple of times a day.

Automatic water dispensers can be helpful. For caged pets, check to be sure that the delivery tube isn't clogged, blocking the flow of water (some parrots think it's a game to push food into the tube).

If you have one of those automatic water dispensers for dogs that attaches to an outside faucet, be sure it's always shaded. Otherwise, the metal can heat up to the point that it cannot be touched by a thirsty pet.

THE SCOOP

To dogs, a stinky smell is irresistible

You know those sprays and plug-ins you use to make the house smell fresh? Your dog is not impressed. If your dog were choosing a scent to make the house smell perfect, he might pick Old Dead Squirrel or Pile of Cat Mess.

As much as we love our dogs, we have a difference of opinion when it comes to defining what smells "good." Considering how much better a sense of smell dogs have than we do, who's to say which species is right about what smells the best?

People like to put on nice scents, and so do dogs, who roll around in odors we can't stand.

One theory on stink-rolling is that it represents a canine celebration of abundance, like a person who won the lottery throwing hundred-dollar bills all over the bed and "rolling in dough." Now and then a dog will encounter a rewarding tidbit with a pungent smell, like a person finding a twenty-dollar bill on the ground. Sweet! But to discover an entire rotting fish or other large pile of nastiness often triggers the urge to celebrate with a hearty roll.

There's a survival element, too. For a hunting animal, there's a tactical advantage to not smelling like a predator. Rolling in strong odors -- feces and even dead animals -- is thought to provide scent cover, to help predators land their lunch a little easier.

Of course, none of our pet dogs have to hunt for their supper, but old instincts never really go away. That's why if there's a bad smell available, there's a good dog happy to roll in it -- and not long after, a spoilsport human with warm water and soap ready to ruin it all, from the dog's point of view.

PETS BY THE NUMBERS

Changing attitudes

A survey commissioned by the Best Friends Animal Sanctuary (www.bestfriends.org) provides further evidence that animals are considered a more important part of our lives now. Still, the results show that feelings don't always equal action. Among the findings:

-- Do you consider your pet property or a family member? (69 percent said "family member")

-- Do we have a moral obligation to protect animals? (92 percent said "yes")

-- Would you take a hurt animal to the veterinarian? (48 percent said "yes")

-- Do you volunteer or contribute money to an animal shelter? (54 percent said "yes")

PET Rx

Sharing beer an awful idea

Summer is party time, and that often means alcohol. While drinking in moderation is part of many a summer get-together, the ASPCA's Animal Poison Control Center warns that pets should never be encouraged or allowed to share. So even if your dog likes beer and you think it's funny to let him drink it, you're taking a chance with his life to do so.

The APCC also warns that citronella candles, coils and oils -- used to keep insects at bay -- should also be kept out of reach of curious pets, as should matches.

More information on summer poisoning risks is on the APCC's Web site (www.aspca.org/apcc). You can also order a free magnet with the center's phone number on it.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

Holidays and pets don't go together well under any circumstances. Animals are creatures of habit, and holidays are big breaks from routine. From a pet's point of view, the Fourth of July may be the worst of all holidays.

You have the usual holiday mix of parties, strangers, unusual foods left temptingly about, and doors that are left open long enough for pets to slip through. Throw in noisy fireworks on top of it all, and you can see why veterinary emergency clinics can be busy places over this particular holiday.

This year, the Fourth falls on a Tuesday, which means many people will be making a four-day celebration of it. The fireworks will be popping from Friday through Tuesday, and that means the folks in the emergency veterinary clinics will be hopping.

It doesn't take much to help ensure that your pet won't be one of those in need of medical assistance. A few commonsense precautions will go a long way toward making the holiday safer for your pet.

First, make sure your pets are secure when the noise begins, because scared pets are more likely to bolt and be hit by cars or lost forever. Check your fences and gates. Are there loose or missing boards, or enticing gaps at the baseline that a panicked pet could open up with a little digging? Fix them all. Better still, bring all your pets inside and consider confining them to a small area like a crate or carrier -- especially if you're not staying home to keep an eye on things.

Always assume your pet may become lost, and plan accordingly. Collars and tags serve as tickets home for lost pets. For extra insurance, add a microchip and a lost-pet service such as 1-800-Help4Pets (www.help4pets.com), which will issue an authorization for your pet's emergency care or boarding if you cannot be found.

Heat is a summer problem that seems to be worse on the Fourth of July, when many people take their dogs along to outdoor events. Don't let having a good time distract you from keeping an eye on your dog. Be sure he isn't exercising too much in the heat, that he's staying in the shade as much as possible and that he's getting lots of water. And of course, your dog should never be left in a car, even with the windows cracked, on any warm day -- even a few minutes could be deadly.

While you're planning for prevention, figure out where you'd go for a veterinary emergency, just in case. Does your veterinary hospital provide around-the-clock emergency care? Will they arrange for on-call care? Find out what your veterinarian offers before you need to know, and be sure that if your veterinarian refers after-hours care to an emergency clinic, you know the phone number and how to get there.

Finally, if you have a pet for whom the noise is terrifying, talk to your veterinarian in advance about tranquilizers you can administer at home to take the edge off the worst of it for your pet. Some pet lovers also report good results from the homeopathic preparation Rescue Remedy, which should be available at any health-food store.

SIDEBAR

Pet on the run

When a pet gets out, you should wait with the expectation that he'll find his way home. The first hours and days after a pet escapes are critical and should not be wasted. And that's especially true on the Fourth of July, when the noise of fireworks can frighten pets into running farther, faster.

Put aside those picnic plans and get fliers out. Put the word "Reward" prominently on the fliers to catch attention, along with a sharp picture of the pet, a brief description and contact phone numbers. Putting "needs medication" or "child's best friend" can also help get people interested in looking. Make at least a hundred, and place them where both drivers and pedestrians can see them. Also, place them at dog parks, pet stores and veterinary clinics.

Canvass the neighborhood with friends and family, and check in with local veterinary emergency clinics to see if your pet has been brought in. When the shelters open after the holiday, check them in person for your pet every day.

Q&A

Pet rats tempting for family dogs

Q: I am looking to get two pet rats. I'm doing some research to help convince my parents. The only thing that stands in the way of my having a good argument against my parents' objections is our two small dachshunds. When my friend brought over her hamster, my dogs wouldn't leave the poor thing alone.

The only place I can put the cage is close to the floor, where my dogs can't really reach it but can put their faces up close to it and bark. What do you think? -- S.T., via e-mail

A: As you've guessed, not all pet combinations work well. Some breeds of dogs are especially intolerant of small pets such as rats, hamsters and mice. Primary among these breeds: terriers and dachshunds. These dogs were developed to be small, nimble and utterly determined to rid the world (or at least the house and barn) of vermin. You can call a rat a pet, but to an animal developed as a ratter, that rat will always be prey.

At the very least, your family's dogs will drive you crazy trying to get at those rats. In the worst-case scenario, they'll succeed, and the rats will be injured or killed. Even if you never allow your dogs into the room where the rat cage is, your dogs will likely know they're in the house and may never let up trying to get to them.

I think a pet rat is not in your future -- for the safety of the rats, the sanity of your dogs and the people in your family.

Too much shedding?

Q: I have a 5-year-old Jack Russell terrier, and he sheds so much! If you run your hand from his neck to his tail, it will be covered with white hair.

He is shorthaired, not longhaired, and I didn't think he would shed this much. I've heard that too much shedding could be a serious problem. Am I worried over nothing, and is there anything I can do to help stop the shedding? -- L.C., via e-mail

A: Assuming that his coat looks to be in healthy condition and there are no bald patches, skin eruptions or other signs of a problem, you probably have a normal dog who's shedding normally. If you don't think the coat looks full, healthy and thick, your dog needs to see your veterinarian.

Brush your dog once or even twice a day to keep the shedding under control. With a shorthaired dog such as yours, use a "hound glove" -- a glove with nubs on the face to pull out loose hairs -- to give him a pleasant petting while you groom.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET BUY

Toy box puzzle keeps a cat busy

Indoor cats can find life pretty boring sometimes, which is why toys that require both physical and mental exercise are recommended by behaviorists. One such toy is the Peek-a-Prize Toy Box, designed to stimulate a cat's curiosity and hunting desire.

The box partially hides a collection of your cat's favorites -- balls, catnip-stuffed toys and even treats -- and then offers him the challenge of working the goodies out of the box. The manufacturer suggests rotating different toys to keep interest high.

The Peek-a-Prize Toy Box is $30 from SmartCat (www.esmartcat.com or 866-317-6278) or pet-supply retailers. A portion of sales proceeds goes to education efforts to help cat lovers learn more about their pets.

PET Rx

Broken feather needs attention

Birds keep their feathers in fine shape through constant preening, but eventually feathers wear out and must be replaced. A budding feather still in its clear protective sheath is called a blood feather, and if these get broken, things can get bloody indeed.

For bleeding from a broken blood feather, wrap your bird securely in a towel to prevent injury to either of you. Then use needle-nosed pliers and grip the feather as close to the base as possible, pulling it out smoothly. Apply pressure to the place where the feather was to stop the bleeding. If you don't feel comfortable restraining your pet and pulling the feather yourself, get your bird to your veterinarian right away.

A healthy bird is likely to bleed to death from an injured blood feather, but by pulling out the broken feather, you can stop the bleeding faster in most cases. Don't use styptic powder on broken feathers, although this product is fine for stopping bleeding from a toenail that's been nicked too closely.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

THE SCOOP

An angry cat can be a danger to all around him

Have you ever had a really bad day at the office, come home and snapped at your mate?

That's roughly what's happening when a frustrated indoor cat attacks another animal or person inside the house because he's worked up over an animal on the other side of the window. It's called redirected aggression, and it can be accompanied by other signs of frustration from the indoor cat, such as urine-spraying.

Cats are very territorial and don't appreciate seeing other cats on what they view as their turf. In an area with free-roaming cats, the animals work out their territory by marking and occasionally by fighting.

But when a cat is kept indoors, he doesn't have a chance to mark or otherwise defend his yard from cats who trot through as if they own the place. The visitor may not even realize the indoor cat is there. (Or indeed they may, because some outdoor cats seem to delight in tormenting their housecat kin!)

How can you keep your cat from working himself into a rage and yourself from being the target of his redirected anger?

A motion-detector sprinkler such as the ScareCrow ($75 from Contech, www.critter-repellent.com or 866-802-8837) may keep stray cats out of your yard. If there's one window that seems to be the perfect vantage point for the indoor cat, you might think about keeping the blinds closed or closing off that room. Finally, a Feliway pheromone diffuser inside the house ($30 from www.felineway.com or 800-549-3904) may help keep your cat calm.

To protect yourself from a clawing, keep an eye on your cat: If he's agitated, he's best avoided until the strange cat is gone and your cat settles down.

PETS BY THE NUMBERS

How much would you spend?

In an informal survey by Veterinary Pet Insurance (www.petinsurance.com), pet lovers indicated that money isn't as important as saving a pet. They were asked: How much money would you spend to save your pet's life? The answers:

Any amount 68.8 percent

Up to $5,000 17.2 percent

Up to $1,000 10.5 percent

Up to $500 3.4 percent

PET TIP

Good time now to spay the cat

Every year I hear from frantic readers who are worried that something's seriously wrong with their half-grown female cats: (BEGIN ITALS)She won't stop crying. She won't stop yowling. She is writhing around on the carpet as if she just had her tail slammed in the door and is in pain.(END ITALS)

I'm always happy to set the owners' minds at ease: Their cats aren't injured. They're in heat.

To put it simply: Once female cats reach sexual maturity (around 5 months), they're pretty much in heat any time they're not pregnant. And they're back in heat not long after giving birth. A female cat is in constant "she's gotta have it" mode, which is why for the sanity of cat and human alike, there's no time like the present to get that cat spayed. (And get the male cat neutered, too, of course.)

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

The first time I wrote about disaster preparation for pets, some 20 years ago, there wasn't much to write about. I called a disaster-response official and he seemed rather puzzled at the questions I wasn't asking. Pets? Who cares?

Finally, he told me people should open big bags of pet food, fill the bathtub with water and leave their pets behind. His whole attitude: What's the big fuss? They're just pets!

I'll guarantee you no disaster-response expert would dare voice such an opinion today. And it's not just because they recognize that animals are worth saving -- because it's possible many still don't. What has become apparent over the years is that if no plans are made for pets, people won't leave their homes. And when people won't leave, that puts everyone in greater peril.

But even though it's true that government on all levels has a greater interest in helping people and pets in time of disaster, it's still pretty much up to each of us to be ready to care for our animal companions. With another hurricane season upon us -- and no community immune from the threat of disaster -- it's a good time to review your plans and your pets' place in them.

Start your preparations with something you've probably already taken care of: Make sure your pets have ID.

Most animals will survive a disaster, but many never see their families again because there's no way to determine which pet belongs to which family if the animals go missing, a common occurrence even under normal circumstances. That's why dogs and cats should always wear a collar and identification tags.

Once your pet has up-to-date ID, it's time to collect some equipment to help you cope in case of an emergency. A big storage bin with a lid and handles is an ideal place to keep everything you need together and at hand.

Keep several days' worth of drinking water and pet food as well as any necessary medicines, rotating the stock regularly. For canned goods, don't forget to pack a can opener and a spoon. Lay in a supply of empty plastic bags, along with paper towels, both for cleaning up messes and for sealing them away until they can be safely tossed.

For cats, pack a bag of litter and some disposable litter trays.

Even normally docile pets can behave in uncharacteristic ways when stressed by an emergency, which makes restraints essential for the safety of pets and people alike. For dogs, leashes should always be at hand.

Shipping crates are probably the least-thought-of pieces of emergency equipment for pets, but are among the most important. Sturdy crates keep pets of all kinds safe while increasing housing options. Crated pets may be allowed in hotel rooms that are normally off-limits to pets, or can be left in a pinch with veterinarians or shelters that are already full, since the animals come with rooms of their own.

Final item of restraint for dogs and cats: a soft muzzle, because frightened or injured pets are more likely to bite. And don't forget to put first-aid supplies in your disaster kit, along with a book on how to treat pet injuries.

You may never have to pull out your disaster kit, but it's always good to be prepared.

Back to the official response: The U.S. Department of Homeland Security, in cooperation with the American Kennel Club, the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, the American Veterinary Medical Association and the Humane Society of the United States, has put together a free emergency preparedness brochure for pet lovers. Visit www.ready.gov or call 1-800-BE-READY for more information.

Meanwhile, back in New Orleans

Many of the animal-assistance groups who responded in the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina are still working in the area. Recently, more than a dozen groups and a half-dozen additional volunteer veterinarians combined forces in May to fix more than 1,100 cats in the greater New Orleans area.

The three-week-long "Feline Frenzy" was designed to prevent the dramatic increase in the number of kittens typically born during the warmer months. The animals were neutered, vaccinated and re-released as part of a strategy called Trap-Neuter-Return, a non-lethal method of controlling outdoor cat populations.

For more information on TNR and humane strategies for controlling cat populations -- in all communities -- visit the Web site of Alley Cat Allies (alleycat.org). -- G.S.

Q&A

Barking dog has neighbor up in arms

Q: I hate dogs. And I hate barking dogs worst of all. These people moved in next door a few months ago, and their dog is always barking. I don't know how they can stand the constant noise, but I am ready to use my gun. Don't tell me to call the SPCA. They're animal freaks, too. What would they do? And the police don't care at all! -- T.R., via e-mail

A: They'll care if you shoot your neighbor's dog, that's for sure. As you've found, barking dogs are low on the priority list for municipal agencies (either animal control or your local police), which realistically leaves you with two choices: Deal with the neighbors, or live with the problem.

You might be surprised at how oblivious the neighbor with the problem dog is to the noise the animal makes. Over the years I have come to realize -- sometimes by living next to a nuisance barker myself -- that many owners of barking dogs develop the ability to tune them out, and so may not be fully aware of the trouble their pets are causing.

I'm not offering this as an excuse, believe me, because someone whose dog is a nonstop barker in the way you describe is likely not a caring, responsible pet lover. These dogs are bored and lonely, at the very least, and often neglected as well.

While it's better to talk one-on-one with the owners of the problem dog, I realize that's not always possible, especially if that person has proven to be dangerous or scary to deal with in the past. You might instead consider sending an anonymous letter that indicates how much unhappiness the animal is causing the neighbors, and include a flier with suggestions for improving the situation, through better care of the dog, integration of the animal into the family home, and management of the situations that trigger the barking.

The Denver Dumb Friends League has an excellent fact sheet covering why dogs bark and how pet owners can choose effective solutions. You can find it at http://www.ddfl.org/behavior/barking.pdf. The Web site BarkingDogs.net also has a lot of advice both for the owners of barking dogs and the people who live nearby.

Belling the cat

Q. Will putting a bell on my cat's collar protect birds from being killed? -- B.F., via e-mail

A. Probably not. In fact, some experts have observed that cats can learn to stalk their prey without making the bells on their collars move at all. A cat who's determined to hunt will probably keep hunting, given the opportunity to do so.

Groups such as the Audubon Society are very much against free-roaming cats, whether they're pets given access to the outside or former pets turned wild and living as best they can. Studies have shown that cats do kill a fair amount of songbirds, but they also kill a lot of animals that are neither endangered nor wanted, such as mice and rats. People who advocate for humane handling of feral cat colonies argue that blaming songbird decline on cats is a bit of a "glass house" situation. The biggest threat to any endangered species is the destruction of habitat and pollution. Cats have nothing to do with either of those problems.

The debate will rage on, no doubt. In the meantime, if you want to keep your cat from hunting, keep him inside. It's safer for him, anyway.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET RX

Keeping dogs calm during thunderstorm

For some dogs, fear of thunderstorms increases because we mishandle our dog's early signs of fear -- either by soothing them or by punishing them. The first rewards the behavior; the second makes a scary event even worse.

Sensitivity to thunder is easier to prevent than to cure. When puppies and young dogs show concern, practice those things they know -- like "sit" -- in an upbeat training session with lots of super-yummy treats. In other words: Ignore the storm, distract them with other, more pleasant activities, and don't act as if anything's different.

For many dogs, though, the fear of storms is quite dramatic -- and dangerous. Some dogs may tremble, others may destroy their surroundings, and still other may bite out of fear.

If you don't live in an area where thunderstorms are common, you may be able to just deal with loud noises you can predict -- fireworks on holidays, primarily -- by getting your veterinarian to prescribe a sedative for your pet.

For dogs who are very scared and destructive living in areas where thunderstorms are common, your best bet is asking your veterinarian for a referral to a behaviorist. A veterinary behaviorist will work with you on a treatment plan that may include medications, counter-conditioning, pheromones, and even anti-static jackets in an effort to help a dog to relax during storms.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

ON THE WEB

Site focuses on indoor kitties

Many people have considered and even tried keeping their come-and-go cat in the house. Converting a cat to an indoor lifestyle can be difficult, and many cats are so annoying in their demands to go out that people give up.

The Ohio State University School of Veterinarian Medicine has developed a wonderful Web site, The Indoor Cat Initiative (www.indoorcat.org), that covers every aspect of living with an indoor cat. It answers every imaginable question and helps cat lovers through every conceivable behavior challenge.

Indoor cats live longer, healthier lives. If you've thought about taking this step with your cat, you'll want to read up on this site. -- G.S.

PET TIP

Shelters promote cat adoptions in June

An adult cat can slide quickly into your life. You know pretty well what you're getting with a grown cat -- activity level, sociability, health, etc. Given time in a loving environment, a grown cat forms just as tight a bond with his new people as any kitten can. That's why shelters around the country promote June for cat adoptions.

With adult cats, knowing a little of the animal's background is important, especially if your family has other pets, or children. (A cat who has never experienced them may have a more difficult time adjusting to a new family that includes either or both.) Most shelters or rescue groups try to provide some basic background information, which they ask of the people giving up their pets.

If at all possible, take each adult cat you're considering away from the caging area of the adoption center. Sit down with the animal in your lap, alone in a quiet place, and try to get a feel for the cat as an individual. Shelters are stressful places, so the cat may need a few quiet minutes to collect herself. A calm, confident and outgoing cat will respond to your attention, relaxing in your lap, pushing for strokes and purring.

No matter how promising the initial meeting, remember that cats don't react well to change, so be prepared to give your new pet time to adjust to new surroundings once you take her home. Experts advise starting out your cat in a small, enclosed area -- a spare bathroom or small bedroom equipped with food and water, litterbox, toys and a scratching post. A few days of quiet seclusion with frequent visits from you will relax your new pet and re-establish good litterbox habits. -- G.S.

BY THE NUMBERS

Big birds more popular

While the overall percentage of birds kept as pets has remained small -- 6.4 percent of all households in 2004 -- the trend in bird ownership has been away from small birds such as canaries and finches. Ownership percentages among bird-owners:

1998 2004

Small birds 58 percent 45 percent

Medium birds 30 53

Large birds 12 18

(Source: American Pet Products Manufacturers Assoc. Inc.)

THE SCOOP

Iguanas can regrow tails

The ability to lose a tail can be a lifesaver for iguanas. If caught by a predator, an iguana can escape by dropping the tail, leaving it still wriggling in the mouth of an animal who thought lunch was in the bag. The trick isn't used just with predators: More than a few people who are new to having an iguana as a pet have ended up screaming the first time they find themselves holding a thrashing tail instead of an iguana.

Smaller iguanas are more likely than larger ones to regrow their tails, usually within a few weeks. If the tail is in place but injured, or is only partially broken off, a visit to a veterinarian with experience in reptiles is in order to determine the best course of treatment. -- G.S.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, MO 64111; (816) 932-6600