Week in and week out, the No. 1 question I get from cat lovers is this one: "Why has my cat stopped using the litter box?"

Start solving this behavior mystery by making sure there's no health issue involved -- and that means a trip to the veterinarian (see sidebar). Once you have a clean bill of health on your cat, you can start going through the list of common reasons why pets start choosing other places to go.

What you need to know:

-- Cleanliness is catliness. Cats are fastidious animals, and if the litter box is dirty, they look elsewhere for a place to go. Clean the box frequently -- twice a day is ideal -- and make sure it's completely scrubbed clean and aired out on a weekly basis.

-- Not all boxes are equal. Many choices that people make to suit their own tastes don't match what their cats want. Covered boxes, hidden boxes, automatic boxes -- these are all just fine, if your cat accepts them. But if your cat wants a plain, open box, that's the one you'll need to buy.

-- Not all fillers are fine. Some kinds of litter that people may like might not be the ones their cats prefer. Litter with scent added may smell great to you but may be driving your cat away. Likewise, "paw feel" is important, since some cats are picky about how a litter feels. An unscented clumping litter suits many cats best.

-- Location is everything. Your cat's box should be away from his food and water dishes, in a place he can get to easily and feel safe in. Consider location from a cat's point of view: Choose a quiet spot where he can see what's coming at him. A cat doesn't want any surprises while he's in the box.

Also, consider adding boxes on each level of the house, to make it easier for a cat to get where he needs to go.

-- Sharing doesn't always work. Multiple-cat households face additional challenges. Some cats will happily share a communal box, but many others won't. The rule of thumb: as many boxes as you have cats, plus one additional box. Watch to see if your cats have divvied up the household real estate, and make sure each cat has a box in his home territory.

Retraining a cat to use a box requires keeping him in a small area with all the basic essentials for a few days. Make sure that the room has no good options besides the litter box -- no carpet, no pile of dirty laundry. Block off the bathtub -- keep an inch of water in it to discourage its use as a place to go.

After your cat is reliably using the litter box, let him slowly expand his territory again.

SIDEBAR

First step: Clean bill of health

You cannot hope to sort out a litter-box problem if your cat is sick. That's why the first step to solving chronic inappropriate elimination is to make sure your cat sees your veterinarian.

Urinary-tract infections are common triggers for unwanted behavior, and diabetes may also be a factor. For other cats, the infirmities of old age may contribute to litter-box problems, with creaky joints making it difficult to negotiate stairs when nature calls.

Your veterinarian will conduct a complete examination, and it's likely that some diagnostic tests will be involved. Any physical problem will need to be resolved for you to have any hope of getting your cat reliably using the box again.

Q&A

Quality of life at end of life

Q: Why do you believe in killing animals who are terminally ill but not people? There is absolutely nothing wrong with allowing a higher being to choose when your pet leaves, as long as one assumes responsibility for pain management and loving care until there is a natural passing.

It's very difficult, time-consuming and scary, but it's how we let people pass, so why are you pushing killing your ill pet? Is it because the veterinarian charges for the killing of the pet? Would you kill a human in this way?

Your article on cancer was very one-sided and rather offensive in that you advocated murder and not end-of-life care. -- M.C., via e-mail

A: I have absolutely no idea how you could have possibly come up with the idea that I advocate euthanasia as a convenience or as a moneymaker for veterinarians. (As for the latter, you don't know anything about veterinarians if you think they like euthanizing animals.)

Veterinarians -- especially cancer specialists -- are all about options for seriously ill pets, from the most high-tech of human-grade treatment to pain-management and hospice care. I am all in favor of getting the most time for any pet, as long as that time is of good quality and without pain or fear.

Too often, though, I have seen people make decisions that do not have their animals' welfare at heart. They are thinking too much of themselves and not enough about their animals. When considering end-of-life decisions, you must put aside your own grief and always be an advocate for your animal's comfort.

I have kept terminally ill pets on pain-control regimens that maintained their comfort and mobility to almost the very end of their lives. But when I could no longer assure my animals a pain-free life, I chose a painless death for them. I consider it nothing less than a final gift of love and respect.

If the course of disease cannot be reversed and an animal's pain cannot be eased, I believe we must act with mercy and choose euthanasia. We all make our own decisions in different ways, but we always need to keep the welfare of our pets in mind when doing so.

Q: I know you've warned people to beware of hip dysplasia in large dogs, but that's not the whole story. The No. 2 breed in the canine hip dysplasia ratings is the pug.

More important, there are other serious problems -- such as congenital heart disease -- that puppy buyers should require screening for. And because buyers usually haven't heard of those problems, they need writers like you to make them aware.

I had my 2-year-old Doberman a mere two weeks when he dropped dead of a congenital heart disease. This is a problem in Dobermans, golden retrievers and several other popular breeds. And few buyers ever hear of progressive retinal atrophy but, sadly, it is a common cause of blindness in many breeds.

Hip dysplasia is well-known, so can you add to the list of things that puppy buyers need to be aware of? -- Diane Blackman, www.dogplay.com

A: Thanks, Diane. In fact, everyone who decides to purchase a purebred puppy -- and yes, those trendy puggle, doodle and schnoodle mixes, too -- needs to find out what hereditary defects affect a particular breed (or breeds). Then, you should ask the seller for proof that the parents have been screened and certified as clear of these defects. Verbal assurances of health are not enough.

The Orthopedic Foundation for Animals has excellent articles on its site (www.offa.org) regarding hereditary defects. This organization maintains registries of health information on dogs certified to be clear of congenital defects. If the puppy being considered doesn't have parents with OFA certifications, the risk of health problems is significant.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET BUY

Pet collar takes a high-tech turn

The PetSafe Co. drew more than 5,000 entries to its IdeaFetch pet product contest, and the winner is a collar that combines the need to keep ID on a pet with the convenience of using a computer for information updates.

The MicroID collar offers a way to keep a digital journal on a pet, storing not only traditional identifying information but also veterinary records such as recent visits, required medication and more. The collar has a memory chip that is inserted into a computer's USB port for updating. Anyone who finds the pet can put the collar insert into his or her computer to access the information.

The winning entry brought its inventor $40,000 plus PetSafe's pledge to develop the product. The MicroID collar will be available through retail outlets with a suggested retail of $30.

The top 10 ideas are featured on the contest Web site, www.ideafetch.com. The finalists include a collar that lights up and sounds off when smoke is detected so firefighters can find pets in a burning house.

ON THE WEB

Spinning clothes from dog hair

Those of us who share our lives with animals often feel as if we're wearing our pets or, at least, are constantly trying to keep pet hair off our clothing. But there are people who value pet hair for its ability to be spun into beautiful yarn and to be knitted into garments as lovely as they are sentimental.

Pat Lee's Chiengora Chic Web page (www.mdnpd.com/pd) shows how to take combings from your dog and spin them in into yarn. ("Chiengora" derives from "chien" -- French for "dog" -- and Angora, which Lee says dog yarn most closely resembles.)

Lee offers guidelines on what breed types have the best fur for spinning (double-coated longhaired dogs) and how to go about it. (She recommends brushing out loose fur after a dog has been bathed.) The end results -- lovely scarves, vests and more -- really make working with dog yarn seem like an interesting project to try for the dog-loving person who loves to learn new crafts.

PET Rx

Urine testing a key diagnostic tool

Performed in the veterinarian's office or by an outside laboratory, an analysis of a pet's urine can be used to rule out certain health problems and identify those that might otherwise go undetected.

Some abnormal results may prompt your veterinarian to do further testing, but they don't necessarily mean a pet is ill. For example, a urinalysis will check for the presence of crystals, which can sometimes mean the pet has urinary stones or an infection. However, crystals will frequently form in urine that has been sitting or has become cold. Also, glucose and pH levels in urine can be disrupted by things other than illness.

A urinalysis will also check for "specific gravity," which gives valuable information about the health of the kidneys.

Urine is tested for the presence of blood, protein, ketones, bilirubin, bacteria and white blood cells. Normal urine will have no blood or protein, although traces may not be significant if the specific gravity is normal. There should also be no ketones present, which would possibly indicate diabetes or other disease.

Bilirubin is a pigment formed when red blood cells are dying or dead. High levels can indicate liver disease, obstructed bile ducts or other problems. The presence of bilirubin is significant in cats, but very low levels in dogs may be normal.

Bacteria or large numbers of white blood cells may suggest a bladder or kidney infection. If bacteria is present, an additional test should be done to identify the bacteria and the appropriate antibiotic to treat it.

Your veterinarian should be willing to answer all your questions about the results of any and all diagnostic testing performed on your pet. -- Christie Keith, pethobbyist.com.

BY THE NUMBERS

Playtime!

Image: Man with bird

Optional cutline: Toys are the top purchase bird lovers make.

A 2004 survey by the American Pet Products Manufacturers Association suggests that bird lovers are getting the message about the importance of toys when it comes to keeping their pets happy and healthy. Top purchases reported include:

Toys 61 percent

Dishes 34 percent

Supplements 28 percent

Cages 18 percent

Water bottles 9 percent

Deodorants 11 percent

THE SCOOP

Problem parrots best avoided

Because of their real or perceived value and long lifespans, problem parrots are often sold time and time again, with each owner hoping to reclaim at least part of the purchase price while dumping a difficult-to-handle bird on someone else. The only absolutely sure way to know a bird's history is to buy a weaned youngster from a reputable source, such as a breeder or specialty bird store. Hand-feeding is not for the novice pet-keeper, so don't buy a baby so young you have to wean him or her yourself.

A reputable seller should know the age of your parrot. Ideally, a "hatch date" will be written on the paperwork that comes with the bird. Good breeding practices include good record-keeping. When you see evidence that the paperwork has been taken care of properly, it's more likely you're dealing with a reputable bird-breeder or knowledgeable and caring retailer.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

In an early nod to spring cleaning, I decided to start going through my books, with an eye toward donating as many as possible to the local shelter's fund-raising book sale. But among these are books that will never be put up for adoption: pet-care guides from the early part of the last century, and from the century before that.

These books can be eye-opening for today's dog lover, with their advice on harsh, even brutal dog-training methods, warnings on deadly diseases we rarely consider, and time-consuming recipes for preparing canine rations. Flipping through the pages got me thinking about not only how relatively easy we have it today, but also which of modern life's advances have had the most impact on how we care for our dogs.

Here is my list. Call them the magnificent seven:

-- Vaccinations. Pick up any dog-showing guide from the early part of the last century and you're certain to read of top purebreds who died young after picking up distemper at a dog show. In fiction, you'll find no shortage of works that involve a rabid dog -- "Old Yeller," of course, but also "To Kill a Mockingbird."

These days, the threat to humans from rabies comes mostly from wildlife, and dogs are likewise protected from many deadly diseases, including distemper.

-- Commercial dog foods. While it's possible to prepare a dog's diet at home from scratch -- and not uncommon these days to do so -- most people haven't the time or interest. Fortunately, there has never been a wider range and better selection of commercial dog foods. These offer good nutrition with convenience, at a cost generally well below any home-prepared diet.

-- Flea control. While vaccinations and commercial dog foods have been around for decades, advances in flea control have come into their own since I started writing about pets a couple of decades ago. I well remember the noxious flea-dips, bombs and sprays, and how every spring and summer a large chunk of my reader questions would be from people begging for an end to the biting and the scratching.

These days, monthly spot-on medications mean the sounds of spring do not so often include the jangling of dog tags on itchy, flea-bitten pets.

-- Heartworm preventives. Heartworms are introduced when a mosquito bites a dog. Left untreated, heartworms can kill a dog. And even the treatment of established heartworms can kill a dog. Heartworm prevention in a simple monthly pill removes the risk of both bad outcomes. Unfortunately, this is one modern marvel that hasn't been used to the fullest -- as the shocking number of heartworm-infested dogs rescued after Hurricane Katrina showed.

-- Reward-based dog training. While there are no doubt those who still rely on force and punishment to teach dogs their manners, these trainers are in the minority today. Most dog trainers now emphasize methods that are considerably more carrot than stick.

Along with new training techniques has come an emphasis on early and ongoing socialization to get puppies off to the best start possible. Even dog-training equipment has changed for the better, with options such as head-collars and front-clip harnesses making it easier to control a dog on leash.

-- Dog sports. Canine activities didn't used to be about recreation, but rather about getting a job done. Today many of those traditional jobs are now competitive endeavors, such as trials for hunting and herding dogs. In recent years, newly created sports, such as canine agility, have become incredibly popular.

All sports strengthen the bond between dog and owner, and give both a good reason to get some fresh air and exercise.

-- Off-leash areas. As our population grows and leash laws tighten, dog lovers are often left with few options for exercising their pets. Large dogs with high exercise requirements remain popular -- the Labrador and golden retrievers are the top dogs in the country. Behavior and psychological problems in dogs are linked to boredom and a lack of activity.

Both smaller fenced areas and large parkland set-asides provide dogs with places to run. While there are problems -- dog parks aren't a good idea for every dog -- on balance, the trend has been a good one.

That's my list. Readers are welcome to write me with their additions, and I'll write a follow-up column at a later date.

SIDEBAR

Changing with the times

While vaccinations have saved the lives of countless dogs, they're not without risk. And that's one reason why guidelines for vaccinating pets have been changing in recent years.

The idea that pets need "combination shots" every year for protection against disease is being replaced with guidelines that tailor vaccines to an individual animal's needs after the initial series of juvenile vaccinations. Under these changes, boosters are given at three-year intervals -- some as needed, and some not at all. (Rabies vaccinations, of course, are regulated by law because of the threat to human health. Most jurisdictions require them at three-year intervals.)

The 2006 guidelines for canine vaccines are available on the Web site of the American Animal Hospital Association (www.aahanet.org). Talk to your veterinarian about what combination of vaccines is right for your dog, and don't skip your pet's annual examination if you'll be skipping those yearly "shots."

Q&A

What about cats in the garden?

Q: You wrote on gardening recently, but you completely missed what people who care about their yards really want to know. How do you keep the neighbor's cat from using your flowerbeds as a bathroom? -- H.C., via e-mail

A: Years ago, I used to joke with the garden editor at my newspaper that if we could bottle a solution to this problem, we'd both be multimillionaires. He's now retired on the newspaper's pension, and I'm still working, so that should tell you something.

Over the years I've read of countless strategies, including commercial repellants, foil, citrus peels, coffee grounds and cayenne pepper. Also, setting out jugs of water, putting netting over the soil, covering soil with sharp rocks ... the list goes on and on.

These strategies each seem to have people who swear by them, and some seem to work at least in the short term. But nothing seems to work across-the-board and without constant reapplication.

The best resolution, of course, would be for people to keep cats inside, or at least on their own property. Besides being neighborly, keeping cats from roaming is safer for the animals. Cats can be happy indoors, and most humane groups now encourage the indoor-cat option.

But some cats just won't covert to indoor life, and for those, cat-fencing is a good option, although it doesn't protect a cat from predators such as coyotes.

Do-it-yourself instructions for fencing in cats are available from Alley Cat Allies (www.alleycat.org, search for "fence"). Kits are available from several companies, including Affordable Cat Fence (www.catfence.com, 1-888-840-2287) and Purr...fect Fence (www.purrfectfence.com, 1-888-280-4066). Although most of these fences are sold to keep cats in a yard, I don't see why they wouldn't work to keep cats out. Since they're made of netting, they blend in well and aren't an eyesore. They might be especially useful for protecting a small area such as a vegetable garden.

Please don't write to tell me it's not fair that you should have to lift a finger or spend a dime to keep someone else's cat out of your yard. I agree with you, but that's not going to change anything. Even if every pet cat were kept contained, there would still be plenty of free-roaming ferals. Such is the nature of cats.

Q: We have a very sweet Rottweiler. We take her into the pet store with us, and it never fails that someone will be there with a tiny dog, and that dog will try to pick a fight with ours.

Some of these little dogs are vicious, and their owners think it's funny. Why do little dogs pick fights with big ones? Do they have death wishes? My dog could kill a Yorkie with a slap of her paw -- not that she would, of course. -- T.S., via e-mail

A: Many people let small dogs get away with lots of bad behavior, says Darlene Arden, author of the upcoming "Small Dogs, Big Hearts: A Guide to Caring for Your Little Dog" (Wiley, $13) and an expert on these most diminutive of canines.

Arden says some small dogs are reacting out of fear, while others really are trying to pick a fight. "They're saying, 'I'm a dog, too, want to make something of it?'" says Arden. "These little dogs really believe they're bigger."

Since so many small dogs are carried, many of them come to believe they are elevated in status as well as height. Arden says it's up to the owners to make sure small dogs are socialized, well-trained and protected. "Some people think it's really funny when a small dog acts aggressive," says Arden, "but it won't be funny when that behavior gets a dog killed."

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

ON THE WEB

Macaw fans should fly to this site

When people picture pet parrots, the birds that come to mind are often macaws. These pets are among our most popular companion birds, prized for their beauty, intelligence and affection.

From the royal blue hyacinth -- the largest parrot kept as a pet -- to the more manageable sizes of the "minis," macaws have plenty of fans worldwide, all of whom would likely enjoy Those Majestic Macaws (www.exoticbird.com), a Web site packed with a variety of useful and entertaining information, as well as lots of great avian links.

You'll find information on the various species, on macaw-related e-mail lists, breeder referrals, parrot jokes, and recipes for healthy treats and meals for your pet bird. The brightly colored type on a black background will give you a headache to read while exploring, though.

I'd like to see a little more information from avian veterinarians -- too much of the health information is from breeders and fanciers, not medical professionals. But the site still has plenty to offer.

PET Rx

Spaying will end false pregnancies

False pregnancies are not uncommon in unspayed dogs. The signs include nesting, mothering objects, such as a stuffed animal, and excreting milk. Some dogs may physically appear pregnant and may even go into labor. These symptoms become noticeable three to six months after a heat cycle.

If symptoms are mild, the condition will usually resolve itself within three weeks. It may be tempting to put warm compresses on the dog's underside, or to wrap the abdomen to prevent milk leakage in the house. But that's not advised. Any stimulation of the dog's mammary tissues encourages more milk production.

Continued or severe symptoms will require your veterinarian's assistance to address. After the false pregnancy has passed, the dog can be safely spayed, preventing future false pregnancies -- and, of course, real ones as well.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

THE SCOOP

To avoid cat's wrath, watch the tail

While the most unsocial of cats will likely never be purring lap kitties, patient and observant handling will help to teach other cats to tolerate petting.

The key is to stop petting before a cat has had enough, slowly building up your cat's tolerance over time. You can tell when you're getting close to the line by watching your cat's tail. When a cat has had just about enough, his tail will start twitching. Keep petting, and that tail will get even more active, just before you're introduced to your cat's non-loving embrace.

With sensitive cats, restrict your caresses to behind the ears, under the chin or the base of the tail. A long stroke down the back is too much for some kitties, and you're really taking chances when you decide to tickle your cat's tummy.

When you pick your cat up for a petting session, don't surprise him. Come up on him slowly and pick him up gently, making sure his whole body is supported with a hand under his chest and one beneath his legs.

Pet him in the safe areas on his body only, watching for the first sign of a tail twitch. When you get that first early warning sign, stop petting and allow him to calm down or leave if he wants to.

If you miss the signs and end up with teeth and claws around your arm, just freeze. If you fight back or physically punish your cat, your cat will be compelled by instinct and fear to escalate the violence. You'll also set back your training and your relationship.

What makes one cat more liable to bite than another? The degree of sensitivity has both genetic and social factors. Some cats are born edgy, while others are made that way because of a lack of socialization or proper training in their kittenhoods.

BY THE NUMBERS

Advice that's fishy

Image: angel fish

Optional cutline: Keeping fish healthy and attractive can be a challenge.

When it comes to getting information on setting up, stocking and maintaining saltwater fish tanks, specialty stores remain popular. In 2004, fish keepers with saltwater tanks reported getting advice from multiple sources, including:

Fish/aquarium store 71%

General pet store 53%

Internet 39%

Books 34%

Friend/relative 31%

Magazines 28%

Aquarium club 8%

Source: American Pet Products Manufacturers Association

PET TIP

'Washable' essential for homes with pets

Is it possible to have pets and a clean house? Here are some tips to keep things neater:

-- Choose upholstery that resists stains and tears, and use washable throws to catch pet hair.

-- Get on pet stains right away, with as much gusto as you can. A stain delayed is a stain set. Use enzymatic cleaners for the best result.

-- Choose wood, laminates, tile or linoleum for flooring. Wall-to-wall carpets are difficult to keep clean in pet-loving households. Instead, soften the effect of hard floors with washable rugs.

-- Use mats under pet dishes, and inside and outside of doors.

A good vacuum is your pet's best friend. I have a hand-held model for quick cleanups, but I swear by my Dyson "Animal" for larger cleaning. Everything my pets touch is washable, which makes my washing machine an essential piece of the clean-home puzzle, too.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

A few days after Christmas I was coming out of a pet-supply store when a young girl approached me in the dark parking lot.

"Would you like a bunny?" she asked. "Free."

In her arms was an adorable half-grown rabbit. I asked her why she was giving him up. She said her mom had decided they didn't have time for a pet after all. The young girl hadn't even had him long enough to give him a name.

His "cage" was a cardboard box lined with a plastic garbage bag, and his "food" was yellowed lettuce leaves. I sighed and took him home. Newly christened as Velocity, he joined my other two rabbits, Turbo and Annie. Turns out rabbits multiply, even if they're neutered.

The Christmas bunny incident got on my nerves because it exemplifies everything that's wrong about children's pets. In a word: parents. If parents aren't going to behave like grown-ups and make sensible, responsible decisions, the wonderful promise that is a children's pet too often ends miserably, both for the child and for the animal.

Velocity got lucky, which sets him apart from the majority of cast-off children's pets.

With Easter just around the corner, it's time to remind people that although pets can be wonderful for children, it's up to adults to see that any animal is a proper fit for the family and is not neglected. Don't just give in to a child's demands!

Easter pets traditionally include baby chicks, ducks and, of course, rabbits. Chicks and ducklings are not suitable pets for most families, but rabbits can be good companions for children who are old enough to handle the animals safely.

Rabbits are not low-maintenance pets, however, and they require more than a small outside hutch, a water bottle and some food. In fact, you'll get a lot more out of a pet rabbit if you bring the animal into your house and your life. As with any companion animal, the amount of proper care and time you give is paid back many times over.

Here are some care tips, a basic bunny primer:

-- Equipment. Your rabbit needs a cage that's at least big enough to stretch out and hop around, and tall enough so he can stand on his hind legs without his ears touching the top.

For a food dish, choose a ceramic crock that cannot be chewed or tipped over. A hanging bottle is best for water; make sure the water stays fresh by changing it daily. Rabbits need and love to chew, so be sure there are toys and other items for safe chewing. My three bunnies love hay-filled cardboard tubes and sisal mats, toys that are great for chewing and cheap to find or make.

Don't forget a litter box. Put a shallow layer of absorbent, pressed-paper litter in the bottom and hay on the top. You'll get most of the mess in the box, which will need to be changed regularly, not scooped like a cat box.

-- Nutrition. In recent years, rabbit experts have moved away from recommending commercial pellets as a base diet for pet rabbits. Instead, rabbits should have constant access to fresh grass hays and daily offerings of fresh vegetables such as greens (all kinds), carrot tops and broccoli. You can grow your own greens or harvest them from areas you know to be herbicide-free. Fruit, such as apple slices, makes wonderful treats.

-- Health. Rabbits are better pets if neutered. Annual checkups with the veterinarian are a good idea, and some rabbits have teeth that need regular medical attention.

-- Exercise. Rabbits were meant to run. Indoor rabbits can roam around the house under supervision, and chill in their cages when not being watched. Outdoor activity in a small fenced area is also fun, if carefully supervised to protect these bunnies from predators.

A great resource for rabbit information is the House Rabbit Society, online at www.rabbit.org. HRS founder Marinell Harriman's "House Rabbit Handbook: How to Live With an Urban Rabbit" (Drollery Press, $11) is a good basic reference.

Is your family ready for a rabbit? If the answer's yes, forget the Easter sales push and adopt a bunny from a rescue group or humane society. You'll find lots of great pets to choose from, and you'll be saving a life. (Rabbits have very low adoption rates.)

Have the staff show you and your child how to hold a rabbit safely and firmly, so neither human nor rabbit is hurt when a frightened bunny kicks.

Q&A

What foods are safe for dogs?

Q: I have some questions on feeding dogs. Is it true that: (1) Chicken or turkey bones can hurt a dog's stomach? (2) Dogs should not have garlic, onions, grapes, plums and chocolate? (3) Dogs shouldn't have any kind of bread or pasta? (4) Dogs should eat a beef bone the size of their head once a week? I am 82 years young at heart. My cup is half-full, and I have lots of time to think. -- M.T., via e-mail

A: Cooked poultry bones should always be off-limits. These can kill a dog. Raw poultry bones are a little more forgiving, although to say so is to step right into a huge controversy on home-prepared pet diets, many of which include raw, meaty bones. Chicken wings, chicken backs, chicken necks and turkey necks -- all raw -- are fed to dogs fairly routinely as part of diets that are made up of fresh, whole ingredients meant to mimic the diet of wild wolves -- no kibble.

These diets are not uncommon -- although they're hardly mainstream -- and many veterinarians are dead-set against them. But ... I do know many people who have been feeding dogs raw diets for years, including raw poultry bones, without any problems.

As for garlic, onions, grapes, plums and chocolate, there's no argument: All except plums should be off-limits. The grape's dried form, the raisin, is also a canine no-no. Add to the unsafe list: alcoholic beverages, avocados, coffee, macadamia nuts, yeast dough and products sweetened with xylitol. Bread and pasta won't hurt a dog, but they aren't really necessary to feed your dog.

Beef bones? Raw or cooked, they're fine for recreational chewing, in short durations under supervision. It might be hard to find a bone exactly the size of a dog's head, so let's set some more easy-to-follow guidelines, shall we?

For small dogs, oxtails are a good size. For larger dogs, beef "knuckles" and marrow-filled leg bone sections work well. In multi-dog households, however, bones may be more of a problem than they're worth, sparking fights between animals who usually get along just fine.

Beef bones are also messy. They can get slimy and stinky in a hurry, so be sure to toss them after your dog has been chewing a few hours, at most.

Too much shedding

Q: I have an akita. I brush him daily and bathe him twice a week. He still sheds nonstop. It doesn't seem like anything helps: special food, vitamins, bathing, constant combing. What can I do? Please help! -- L.S., via e-mail

A: Assuming your dog is healthy and has no skin conditions, there's not much you can do.

People who get upset about shedding should do research before getting a dog. Some breeds are prolific shedders by nature. Some, like the German shepherd, are year-round fur machines, while other breeds such as collies drop much of their coat in spring and fall. Daily brushing and combing will help control the mess because the fur you catch on a brush isn't going to end up on clothing or furniture. But in the end, you simply cannot change the genetic imperative of a dog. A breed with a thick, lush coat is going to shed, and that's all there is to it.

Invest in lint rollers and other devices to help cope with shed fur from this dog. For your next pet, consider a dog from one of the lower-shedding varieties. Breeds such as poodles, bichons and many terriers might be a good choice in terms of less fur around the house, but many of these require regular grooming by a professional.

Final note: You shouldn't be bathing a healthy dog twice a week. Once or twice a month is fine, weekly if you must, and use a high-quality pet shampoo and conditioner.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET BUY

Safer ride with truck bed cover

While I'd rather see a dog secured either in a crate or with a harness-type seat belt inside a vehicle than in the back of an open truck, it is possible to make such outdoor accommodations both safer and more comfortable for pets.

The PupHut can help. Designed to provide shade and wind-protection for dogs who are already properly restrained or crated, the product can be a good addition to any pet lover's pickup.

PupHuts come in solid black and a mossy oak camo pattern, and they fit most full-sized pickup trucks without altering the bed. The manufacturer says they can be removed in a second as well. PupHuts start at $180 from www.puphut.com (phone: 1-866-478-7488). The company also offers other truck-safety items for dogs, including bed mats, ramps and cross-tie restraints.

PET Rx

Watch for cat's litter-box pain

In cats, obstipation is described as the inability to defecate, a very painful and serious condition that demands prompt veterinary attention. The causes of this backup are not well understood, but they result in intestines that become dilated and unable to push stools out of the body normally.

If your cat is straining or crying out while trying to defecate, or if you notice an absence of feces in the litter box, your pet has a potentially serious problem. Oddly, this blockage may initially appear as diarrhea, because your cat's body, so irritated by the retained feces, may generate lots of watery fluid or mucus to try to cope. This discharge may seem like "ordinary" loose stools when passed.

Any changes in your cat's litter-box habits need to be investigated by your veterinarian, the sooner the better, and obstipation is no exception.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

THE SCOOP

Reel-type leashes can be hazardous

Every now and then you'll run across a product so useful, you don't know how you ever lived without it. The retractable reel-type leash (the Flexi is probably the most popular brand) is one such product.

But every product has its limits and its rules for safety, which need to be understood. These leashes are no exception.

The Flexi is not designed for use with an untrained dog. A dog who pulls at the leash or refuses to come when called back from the end of the leash is at risk of injuring himself, his owner or an innocent bystander. This is not the fault of either the leash or the dog. It's an error on the part of the dog's owner in choosing the wrong piece of equipment.

Some dogs have hurt themselves hitting the end of the long leash at full speed and not having it give way (which is also pretty tough on the human holding the handle). Other dogs have bitten people or other pets, or have hurt themselves, after getting too far away on the leash before the handler has had time to reel them in. And some dogs have pulled the leash out of their owners' hands when they reach the end of the line. The Keep 'Um Safe Safety Loop ($8, www.keepumsafe.com, or 1-800-959-4528) is a good addition to any reel-type leash, keeping the line housing from being pulled from the hand.

Users should always be aware of where the line is. Don't grab it with your bare hands. And be careful that it doesn't wrap around fingers or legs -- it can cut or burn, if moving quickly.

The company that makes the Flexi is aware of the potential problems, and highlights cautionary information in its packages and on its Web site (www.flexiusa.com). Read the instructions, and don't risk injury to yourself or your dog by using this product in a way for which it wasn't designed.

BY THE NUMBERS

Where cats come from

Cat lore dictates that if you feed a stray cat, you've adopted a stray cat. That seems to be largely true, based on a 2004 survey showing where people get their cats (multiple answers allowed):

Pet store adoption program 3%

Shelter 15%

Breeder 3%

Friend/relative 43%

Kitten of own cat 15%

Classified ad 8%

Pet store purchase 4%

Stray 34%

Rescue group 3%

Veterinarian 2%

Other 5%

Source: American Pet Products Manufacturers Association

PET TIP

Pet tags need good fasteners

The S-hooks given out with some pet ID tags are a royal pain. The hooks are hard to fasten correctly, even using pliers, and they always seem to be falling off the collar, giving up the tag or catching on something. A better choice for fastening tags is the split-ring.

Many tag makers offer you a choice of fasteners, but if that's not the case, ditch the S-hooks and head to the hardware store. Split-rings are available cheaply there, in the key section. I like split-rings made for keys better, in fact, because they're generally sturdier than the ones that come with tags.

You don't have to break your nails to get tags -- or keys -- on these rings. Use a staple remover to pull them wide enough to slide on the tags. If you don't have one handy, a carefully handled table knife from your everyday table settings will do the job, too.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

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