pets

Bunny Love Gone Bad

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | March 20th, 2006

A few days after Christmas I was coming out of a pet-supply store when a young girl approached me in the dark parking lot.

"Would you like a bunny?" she asked. "Free."

In her arms was an adorable half-grown rabbit. I asked her why she was giving him up. She said her mom had decided they didn't have time for a pet after all. The young girl hadn't even had him long enough to give him a name.

His "cage" was a cardboard box lined with a plastic garbage bag, and his "food" was yellowed lettuce leaves. I sighed and took him home. Newly christened as Velocity, he joined my other two rabbits, Turbo and Annie. Turns out rabbits multiply, even if they're neutered.

The Christmas bunny incident got on my nerves because it exemplifies everything that's wrong about children's pets. In a word: parents. If parents aren't going to behave like grown-ups and make sensible, responsible decisions, the wonderful promise that is a children's pet too often ends miserably, both for the child and for the animal.

Velocity got lucky, which sets him apart from the majority of cast-off children's pets.

With Easter just around the corner, it's time to remind people that although pets can be wonderful for children, it's up to adults to see that any animal is a proper fit for the family and is not neglected. Don't just give in to a child's demands!

Easter pets traditionally include baby chicks, ducks and, of course, rabbits. Chicks and ducklings are not suitable pets for most families, but rabbits can be good companions for children who are old enough to handle the animals safely.

Rabbits are not low-maintenance pets, however, and they require more than a small outside hutch, a water bottle and some food. In fact, you'll get a lot more out of a pet rabbit if you bring the animal into your house and your life. As with any companion animal, the amount of proper care and time you give is paid back many times over.

Here are some care tips, a basic bunny primer:

-- Equipment. Your rabbit needs a cage that's at least big enough to stretch out and hop around, and tall enough so he can stand on his hind legs without his ears touching the top.

For a food dish, choose a ceramic crock that cannot be chewed or tipped over. A hanging bottle is best for water; make sure the water stays fresh by changing it daily. Rabbits need and love to chew, so be sure there are toys and other items for safe chewing. My three bunnies love hay-filled cardboard tubes and sisal mats, toys that are great for chewing and cheap to find or make.

Don't forget a litter box. Put a shallow layer of absorbent, pressed-paper litter in the bottom and hay on the top. You'll get most of the mess in the box, which will need to be changed regularly, not scooped like a cat box.

-- Nutrition. In recent years, rabbit experts have moved away from recommending commercial pellets as a base diet for pet rabbits. Instead, rabbits should have constant access to fresh grass hays and daily offerings of fresh vegetables such as greens (all kinds), carrot tops and broccoli. You can grow your own greens or harvest them from areas you know to be herbicide-free. Fruit, such as apple slices, makes wonderful treats.

-- Health. Rabbits are better pets if neutered. Annual checkups with the veterinarian are a good idea, and some rabbits have teeth that need regular medical attention.

-- Exercise. Rabbits were meant to run. Indoor rabbits can roam around the house under supervision, and chill in their cages when not being watched. Outdoor activity in a small fenced area is also fun, if carefully supervised to protect these bunnies from predators.

A great resource for rabbit information is the House Rabbit Society, online at www.rabbit.org. HRS founder Marinell Harriman's "House Rabbit Handbook: How to Live With an Urban Rabbit" (Drollery Press, $11) is a good basic reference.

Is your family ready for a rabbit? If the answer's yes, forget the Easter sales push and adopt a bunny from a rescue group or humane society. You'll find lots of great pets to choose from, and you'll be saving a life. (Rabbits have very low adoption rates.)

Have the staff show you and your child how to hold a rabbit safely and firmly, so neither human nor rabbit is hurt when a frightened bunny kicks.

Q&A

What foods are safe for dogs?

Q: I have some questions on feeding dogs. Is it true that: (1) Chicken or turkey bones can hurt a dog's stomach? (2) Dogs should not have garlic, onions, grapes, plums and chocolate? (3) Dogs shouldn't have any kind of bread or pasta? (4) Dogs should eat a beef bone the size of their head once a week? I am 82 years young at heart. My cup is half-full, and I have lots of time to think. -- M.T., via e-mail

A: Cooked poultry bones should always be off-limits. These can kill a dog. Raw poultry bones are a little more forgiving, although to say so is to step right into a huge controversy on home-prepared pet diets, many of which include raw, meaty bones. Chicken wings, chicken backs, chicken necks and turkey necks -- all raw -- are fed to dogs fairly routinely as part of diets that are made up of fresh, whole ingredients meant to mimic the diet of wild wolves -- no kibble.

These diets are not uncommon -- although they're hardly mainstream -- and many veterinarians are dead-set against them. But ... I do know many people who have been feeding dogs raw diets for years, including raw poultry bones, without any problems.

As for garlic, onions, grapes, plums and chocolate, there's no argument: All except plums should be off-limits. The grape's dried form, the raisin, is also a canine no-no. Add to the unsafe list: alcoholic beverages, avocados, coffee, macadamia nuts, yeast dough and products sweetened with xylitol. Bread and pasta won't hurt a dog, but they aren't really necessary to feed your dog.

Beef bones? Raw or cooked, they're fine for recreational chewing, in short durations under supervision. It might be hard to find a bone exactly the size of a dog's head, so let's set some more easy-to-follow guidelines, shall we?

For small dogs, oxtails are a good size. For larger dogs, beef "knuckles" and marrow-filled leg bone sections work well. In multi-dog households, however, bones may be more of a problem than they're worth, sparking fights between animals who usually get along just fine.

Beef bones are also messy. They can get slimy and stinky in a hurry, so be sure to toss them after your dog has been chewing a few hours, at most.

Too much shedding

Q: I have an akita. I brush him daily and bathe him twice a week. He still sheds nonstop. It doesn't seem like anything helps: special food, vitamins, bathing, constant combing. What can I do? Please help! -- L.S., via e-mail

A: Assuming your dog is healthy and has no skin conditions, there's not much you can do.

People who get upset about shedding should do research before getting a dog. Some breeds are prolific shedders by nature. Some, like the German shepherd, are year-round fur machines, while other breeds such as collies drop much of their coat in spring and fall. Daily brushing and combing will help control the mess because the fur you catch on a brush isn't going to end up on clothing or furniture. But in the end, you simply cannot change the genetic imperative of a dog. A breed with a thick, lush coat is going to shed, and that's all there is to it.

Invest in lint rollers and other devices to help cope with shed fur from this dog. For your next pet, consider a dog from one of the lower-shedding varieties. Breeds such as poodles, bichons and many terriers might be a good choice in terms of less fur around the house, but many of these require regular grooming by a professional.

Final note: You shouldn't be bathing a healthy dog twice a week. Once or twice a month is fine, weekly if you must, and use a high-quality pet shampoo and conditioner.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET BUY

Safer ride with truck bed cover

While I'd rather see a dog secured either in a crate or with a harness-type seat belt inside a vehicle than in the back of an open truck, it is possible to make such outdoor accommodations both safer and more comfortable for pets.

The PupHut can help. Designed to provide shade and wind-protection for dogs who are already properly restrained or crated, the product can be a good addition to any pet lover's pickup.

PupHuts come in solid black and a mossy oak camo pattern, and they fit most full-sized pickup trucks without altering the bed. The manufacturer says they can be removed in a second as well. PupHuts start at $180 from www.puphut.com (phone: 1-866-478-7488). The company also offers other truck-safety items for dogs, including bed mats, ramps and cross-tie restraints.

PET Rx

Watch for cat's litter-box pain

In cats, obstipation is described as the inability to defecate, a very painful and serious condition that demands prompt veterinary attention. The causes of this backup are not well understood, but they result in intestines that become dilated and unable to push stools out of the body normally.

If your cat is straining or crying out while trying to defecate, or if you notice an absence of feces in the litter box, your pet has a potentially serious problem. Oddly, this blockage may initially appear as diarrhea, because your cat's body, so irritated by the retained feces, may generate lots of watery fluid or mucus to try to cope. This discharge may seem like "ordinary" loose stools when passed.

Any changes in your cat's litter-box habits need to be investigated by your veterinarian, the sooner the better, and obstipation is no exception.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

THE SCOOP

Reel-type leashes can be hazardous

Every now and then you'll run across a product so useful, you don't know how you ever lived without it. The retractable reel-type leash (the Flexi is probably the most popular brand) is one such product.

But every product has its limits and its rules for safety, which need to be understood. These leashes are no exception.

The Flexi is not designed for use with an untrained dog. A dog who pulls at the leash or refuses to come when called back from the end of the leash is at risk of injuring himself, his owner or an innocent bystander. This is not the fault of either the leash or the dog. It's an error on the part of the dog's owner in choosing the wrong piece of equipment.

Some dogs have hurt themselves hitting the end of the long leash at full speed and not having it give way (which is also pretty tough on the human holding the handle). Other dogs have bitten people or other pets, or have hurt themselves, after getting too far away on the leash before the handler has had time to reel them in. And some dogs have pulled the leash out of their owners' hands when they reach the end of the line. The Keep 'Um Safe Safety Loop ($8, www.keepumsafe.com, or 1-800-959-4528) is a good addition to any reel-type leash, keeping the line housing from being pulled from the hand.

Users should always be aware of where the line is. Don't grab it with your bare hands. And be careful that it doesn't wrap around fingers or legs -- it can cut or burn, if moving quickly.

The company that makes the Flexi is aware of the potential problems, and highlights cautionary information in its packages and on its Web site (www.flexiusa.com). Read the instructions, and don't risk injury to yourself or your dog by using this product in a way for which it wasn't designed.

BY THE NUMBERS

Where cats come from

Cat lore dictates that if you feed a stray cat, you've adopted a stray cat. That seems to be largely true, based on a 2004 survey showing where people get their cats (multiple answers allowed):

Pet store adoption program 3%

Shelter 15%

Breeder 3%

Friend/relative 43%

Kitten of own cat 15%

Classified ad 8%

Pet store purchase 4%

Stray 34%

Rescue group 3%

Veterinarian 2%

Other 5%

Source: American Pet Products Manufacturers Association

PET TIP

Pet tags need good fasteners

The S-hooks given out with some pet ID tags are a royal pain. The hooks are hard to fasten correctly, even using pliers, and they always seem to be falling off the collar, giving up the tag or catching on something. A better choice for fastening tags is the split-ring.

Many tag makers offer you a choice of fasteners, but if that's not the case, ditch the S-hooks and head to the hardware store. Split-rings are available cheaply there, in the key section. I like split-rings made for keys better, in fact, because they're generally sturdier than the ones that come with tags.

You don't have to break your nails to get tags -- or keys -- on these rings. Use a staple remover to pull them wide enough to slide on the tags. If you don't have one handy, a carefully handled table knife from your everyday table settings will do the job, too.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

pets

Pets and Cancer

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | March 13th, 2006

When veterinary oncologist Dr. Melinda Van Vechten was starting her career in the late '80s, there wasn't much to offer a person whose pet had been diagnosed with cancer.

"People were pretty much told 'Your pet has cancer' and that was that," she says.

That's not the case anymore. Today, says Van Vechten, there's a wide range of options, everything from hospice care aimed at pain-management to the most aggressive surgical, chemo and radiation therapies. The outcome? Cures for some pets, long-term remissions for others and, for the rest, a good quality of life for a little extra time.

For many people, even the latter outcome can be a better option than nothing at all.

Van Vechten's recently opened veterinary hospital -- Northern California Veterinary Specialists in Sacramento, Calif. -- covers the range of options and outcomes. The hospital has such cutting-edge diagnostic and treatment equipment as a CT scanner and a nuclear accelerator, and all the latest medications for fighting the disease and treating the pain.

But perhaps the most poignant sign of how hard the fight against cancer can be, the center also has a quiet room set aside for tearful goodbyes when there's nothing more to be offered to a pet except a final release from suffering.

With the life of an animal not that long to begin with, at least not compared to a human lifespan, even the victories can seem short-lived. But for many people, a few more months or a few more years with a pet is worth pursuing, if a good quality of life can be maintained.

"People like knowing that cancer's not the end of it, that something's available," she says. "It's all about getting the word out that there's something we can do."

That "something" can be expensive, no doubt about it. In a concrete bunker in the rear of the center, the nuclear accelerator looms. The cost of the equipment and the highly trained operators make radiation therapy an option out of reach of many pet lovers, admits Van Vechten, who says that some cancer treatment regimens can easily run into five figures. Even the cost of finding out exactly what's wrong with a pet can be prohibitively expensive for many people, when factoring in the use of diagnostic equipment such as an ultrasound or CT scanner.

For Van Vechten, it comes back to options. She says being a veterinary oncologist is about helping people make their decisions knowing what all their choices are. It's also about helping them to be realistic about the probable outcomes of those decisions.

As you talk to Van Vechten, you get a sense of how oncology is different in human medicine vs. veterinary medicine. In human medicine, allowing someone to die of cancer virtually untreated except for pain medication can be highly controversial, and euthanasia is even more of a highly charged topic. In veterinary medicine, euthanasia is an accepted and merciful end to suffering, a final act of love for a cherished animal companion.

"In my years of practice, I've had very few people who wouldn't let go when it was time to let go," says Van Vechten. "Sometimes it's not humane to keep treating an animal. I don't go for the maximum days of life. I go for the maximum quality of life."

For some pets with cancer, the quality is very good indeed, and so is the length of time left to be shared. These are the victories most savored by pet lovers and veterinarians alike.

SIDEBAR

Cancer: Know the signs

According to veterinary oncologist Dr. Melinda Van Vechten, these are some of the warning signs of cancer in dogs and cats:

-- asymmetrical swelling

-- lumps and bumps

-- a wound that doesn't heal

-- unexplained weight loss

-- lameness that can't be attributed to injury

-- an older pet who's not thriving

-- unexplained vomiting or diarrhea

Any of these signs should be checked out by your veterinarian without delay. A couple of the best ways to protect your cat or dog from some common cancers are to alter them and keep them from secondhand smoke, according to Van Vechten.

Q&A

Lower voices earn respect

Q: Around our house it's "Wait until your father gets home" as far as our dog is concerned. Bess is our corgi, and the only person she minds is my husband. She ignores me and our 8-year-old daughter. It's irritating! Why doesn't she listen to us, and how can we change things? -- F.P., via e-mail

A: A deep voice gets respect. That's true with people and that's true with dogs.

"Most men have deeper voices than do most women," says dog trainer and award-winning author Liz Palika, who notes that canine mothers use a deep growl when correcting bad behavior in their young puppies.

Most women start out with higher-pitched voices than most men have, and when women get frustrated or angry, their pitch goes even higher. "In verbal canine language, a high-pitched voice means either play or hurt," says Palika. "Neither of these convey authority."

Palika says people with higher-pitched voices can learn to speak so their dogs will respect them. "A deep sound, such as 'acckkk' or 'errr-errr' -- think of Tim Allen in 'Home Improvement' (saying) 'power tools, errr-errr!' -- is all that's needed," she says. "The sound gets the dog's attention."

I have a funny story to add to this: In gatherings of dog trainers, I've noticed that both men and women use deeper voices and authoritative body language with each other -- probably because they're used to being aware of the impact of pitch and stature more than most other people.

At one meeting years ago, I listened as a controversial issue was being discussed. The dog trainers dropped the pitch of their voices and pulled themselves up on their toes like terriers who'd spotted a rat. They made clear, bold eye contact when arguing their case, and even averted their eyes submissively when conceding a point.

To this day I don't remember the topics of discussion, but I clearly remember the body language of the people in the room. It was like watching wolves on a nature show.

Save the houseplants!

Q: Is it possible to have both houseplants and cats? I ask out of desperation. My two cats seem to spend their days thinking of new ways to destroy my plants. -- H.L., via e-mail

A: You'll need to make some compromises. First, check your plants to make sure none of them presents a health risk to your cats. You can find lists of toxic plants in many general-reference cat books, or on the Web site of the Animal Poison Control Center (www.aspca.org/apcc). To protect your plants, hang up as many of them as you can, and cover the soil of those you can't with sharp-edged decorative rocks to discourage digging.

You can also make the leaves icky-tasting by coating them with something your cat finds disagreeable. Cat-discouragers include Bitter Apple, available at any pet-supply store, or Tabasco sauce.

Give your cats plants of their own. Sow grass seeds in a shallow planter and keep a fresh crop of seedlings for nibbling. In an area away from your cats, put some catnip in pots. Once these plants are established, you can use fresh trimmings to rub on cat trees and to stuff in toys to keep your pets entertained.

I'd also recommend more activities for your cats -- more toys and more interactive games, such as using a cat "fishing" toy. Your cats are probably a tad bored, and more opportunities for safe, nondestructive play will help keep them out of trouble.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

THE SCOOP

No matter the size, dogs are wolves

As strange as it may seem when considering the incredible range of sizes, shapes and even coat types and markings, every dog from the smallest Chihuahua to the tallest Irish wolfhound is genetically a wolf.

Mark Derr, author of "A Dog's History of America" and "Dog's Best Friend" and a regular contributor on dog-related issues to national magazines, points out that the dog was reclassified as a wolf several years ago, and is no longer considered to be a stand-alone species.

Our meddling into their breeding is behind the wide range of types in dogs, and it's likely if we stopped today, dogs would eventually mix it up on their own until they ended up looking a lot more like wolves, says Derr.

"When left to breed freely, dogs revert to a generalized pariah-type often associated with the dingo or pariah dog of India or generic husky -- a medium-sized, prick-eared animal with a ginger, black, black and tan, white, and parti-colored coats," notes Derr. He adds: "The dog doesn't have to revert to the wolf. The dog is a wolf -- albeit a wolf who exists in human society." -- G.S.

PET Rx

Know when your pet might have a fever

Everyone with a dog or cat should be able to take a pet's temperature.

Although you can find a special thermometer for dogs and cats in any pet-supply catalog or well-equipped pet store, you can also use an ordinary glass or digital-readout "people" device from your pharmacy.

To take your pet's temperature, lubricate the thermometer with petroleum jelly or a water-based lubricant, such as K-Y. Gently and slowly insert the thermometer about 1 or 2 inches into your pet's fanny.

Leave the thermometer in place for a couple of minutes. In a normal cat or dog, the temperature should be between 100 degrees and 102.5 degrees Fahrenheit, and the thermometer should be almost clean after it's removed. Anything much above or below that range is cause for concern, as is any blood on the thermometer. Call your veterinarian if you have concerns.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

PET TIP

Hypoallergenic dog? Don't bet on it

All dogs have the potential to cause misery in allergy sufferers, no matter the breed or mix, or the hair (or lack thereof). So say top allergy and asthma specialists, such as Dr. Harold Nelson of the National Jewish Medical and Research Center in Denver.

The dogs that are widely hyped to be safe for allergy sufferers are those with poodle-like coats. The list includes poodles, of course, and all those doodle-poodle mixes. Some people also believe dogs with little or no hair are also good for allergy sufferers.

The problem with the fur theory, according to Nelson, is that it's not the fur that causes the problems. He says allergies are caused by a substance found in the sebaceous glands in a dog's skin. The substance clings to the skin and hair, and ends up everywhere. Sneezing and wheezing in people with allergies are the result.

"The animal's hair is the carrier, not the source," says Nelson, who adds that every warm-blooded animal produces similar allergens. In other words, if you really want a hypoallergenic pet, think reptile, or maybe fish.

That said, some breeds seem to be better tolerated by some people with allergies, but reactions vary from person to person and dog to dog. The American Kennel Club suggests 15 breeds that may be easier on allergy sufferers. These include: the Bedlington terrier, bichon frise, the hairless Chinese crested, Irish water spaniel, Kerry blue terrier, Maltese, all three sizes of poodle, Portuguese water dog, all three sizes of schnauzer, soft-coated wheaten terrier and the xoloitzcuintli (like the Chinese crested, a small hairless breed).

In general, smaller dogs seem to be less of a problem than larger ones, but Nelson points out that this is because smaller dogs put out smaller amounts of allergen. Bathing your dog frequently can help, as can keeping pets out of your bedroom so you can have an allergy-free sleep.

BY THE NUMBERS

Pet popularity grows

The American Pet Product Manufacturers Association started tracking pet ownership trends in 1988, when 51.7 percent of U.S. households reported keeping a pet. In the last decade, the trend has gained momentum:

Year U.S. households with pets Percent of total U.S. population

1996 99,000 59 percent

1998 100,400 61 percent

2000 101,868 62 percent

2002 104,090 62 percent

2004 110,633 63 percent

ON THE WEB

Cat images sites keep multiplying

Where will it end? There seems to be no shortage of Web sites for people to share their goofiest pictures of their cats.

One of the best-known is My Cat Hates You (www.mycathatesyou.com), which has been so popular, the images were compiled into two books and a Page-a-Day calendar (all available for sale on the Web site, of course). Then came the Stuff on My Cat site (www.stuffonmycat.com), to which people submitted images of bemused kitties with everything from CD cases to candy bars piled on top of them.

But wait. There's more! How about Cats in Sinks (www.catsinsinks.com) and The Cat Box (www.flickr.com/groups/catbox), for pictures of cats in boxes. For that matter, just go to the photo-sharing site Flikr (www.flickr.com) and search for images tagged with the word "cat" or "cats." You'll find enough images -- more than 400,000 -- to keep you looking for years. -- G.S.

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600

pets

One by One

Pet Connection by by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
by Dr. Marty Becker, Kim Campbell Thornton and Mikkel Becker
Pet Connection | March 6th, 2006

When Elaine Richards first saw something move across the lanes of traffic on one of the busiest stretches of highway in the country, she thought it was a discarded magazine, pushed along by the brisk winds off the San Francisco Bay.

Then she hoped that's what it was, not wanting to consider the alternative. She saw people pop out of their cars in the midst of stalled rush-hour traffic. They would then close their doors, no doubt shaking their heads in helplessness.

And then she knew, for certain.

What had flittered across the lanes was a kitten, stranded on the roadway approaching San Francisco's Bay Bridge. She also knew she was his only hope.

A sensible woman, she realized the traffic was at a dead stop and that the kitten would die if she did nothing. He was standing on the center shoulder, every hair erect, his tail puffed out to the fullest.

"I couldn't live with myself if I left him," she said. "I knew the worst that would happen was that people would get mad at me. I said to myself, 'I'm going to get this guy off the road.'"

The terrified kitten wouldn't cooperate. He started across the traffic lanes, and Richards shooed him back onto the center shoulder. And then ... she lost him.

Another driver told her the kitten had disappeared under a nearby car. Richards asked the driver not to move, and looked underneath.

"I saw little white toes and great big eyes sitting on top of the wheel. I never heard a little animal hiss so loudly," she said. "I said to the driver, 'Do you have a coat or something so I can grab the kitty?' His passenger handed me a very nice scarf."

She took a deep breath, dug in tight with her fingers and pulled the little scrap of fur out. "He bit me like a stapler," she said. "But I couldn't let go. I knew he was dead if I let him go."

She scruffed the kitten and handed back the scarf with a thank you. Back in her car, she watched the kitten disappear under her dashboard as she headed for the animal control department in San Francisco. She knew she and the kitten both needed medical attention.

In San Francisco, the kennel attendant couldn't extricate the kitten from the dash and said that the animal control officer would have to try later. Richards decided the cat was fine where he was, and she'd come back after meeting her obligations in the city.

Later, the kitten was pulled out with no small amount of fuss. "She had a good grip on him, and he was making noises like something a lion cub would make," she said. "Hissing, spitting, yowling."

Eventually, it took a pencil in the fanny to get the little guy moved to where he could be reached.

Richards named the little gray ball Nimitz, after the stretch of freeway where he'd been found. She knew the bite meant he'd need to be quarantined, and she feared he was too wild to have potential as a pet. But soon she found allies: a friend who was willing to adopt him, and an animal control staff eager to tame and treat him.

She and the kitten spent the next 10 days on antibiotics, and eventually she was allowed to adopt the kitten for her friend Kerri Pidnow.

What she took out of the shelter was a completely different kitten from the one she'd left there. "He was purring in my arms," she said. "A little butterball."

Nimitz has settled in happily into his new home with Pidnow and her cat, Mouse. As for Richards, the experience has changed her.

She has now gone through two animal-behavior classes and has signed up to volunteer at the Oakland SPCA. When she was the only one willing to help little Nimitz, she realized she was capable of helping even more.

"I was a kitty's superhero," she said.

From the animals of Hurricane Katrina to a kitten on a California freeway, never underestimate the power of one person who says, "I need to do something."

If enough of us say it, the world will be a better place for us all.

Q&A

More exercise for active dog

Q: I have a very active border collie/blue heeler mix. He is about 8 months old and has recently discovered how fun it can be to destroy the carpets. He also loves to make a mess. We have a dog door, so when we are gone he has full use of the house.

He obviously is getting very bored. We run him four miles a day, but besides getting a companion for him -- I can't get another dog at this time -- what can we do? Doggie day care? Doggie gyms? Behavior training? -- M.M., via e-mail

A: Sporting breeds, herding breeds and their mixes are notorious for their high activity levels, especially in their adolescent and young adult periods. That's why I never recommend dogs such as border collies for people who plan to do nothing more than give them a sedate daily walk.

These dogs are just too high-drive for many situations, especially when you factor in that these are also some of the smartest pets around. (Contrast the active herding and sporting breeds with sighthounds such as retired racing greyhounds. These "40 mph couch potatoes" are often a better choice for a more sedentary household.)

I do like the idea of doggie day care for active dogs, providing nonstop supervised play. These businesses are still relatively rare, though, and the prices can add up, so they may not work for you. (I've used day care from time to time with one of my young dogs, with good results.)

Normally, I'd say your dog needs exercise, but four miles a day ... wow! Can you supplement that with 30 to 40 minutes of retrieving every day? The more exercise, the better.

While you're gone, I'd limit your dog's range and leave him with something to keep him busy. One suggestion: stuffed Kongs.

You take your basic Kong dog toy, stuff it with peanut butter and bits of kibble or biscuits, and freeze it. Then give it to your dog when you're leaving the house. With a simple Internet search, you can find all kinds of recipes and ideas for stuffing Kongs. There's also a machine available for dispensing stuffed Kongs throughout the day. (KongTime retails for $140 to $150 from pet suppliers.)

Use a baby gate or other barrier to keep your dog in a small area with his Kong and other chew toys while you're gone to minimize distraction and destruction -- no more free run of the house!

You might also consider getting involved in a dog sport. Since you and your dog are both so fit and athletic, I bet you'd both be great at canine agility.

No chocolate

Q: We have a 14-year-old Westie who is doing very well, and we try to keep him on a diet. The problem is that my wife tries to slip him treats that I think may be bad for him, especially chocolate. I've read that chocolate is a no-no. Can you advise us? -- R.D., via e-mail

A: Chocolate is indeed toxic to dogs. Even though it would take more than a little treat to make most dogs really sick, you're better off not giving your dog any of it.

Many people who have their dogs on good, sensible diets seem determined to botch things up by stuffing their pets full of treats all day long. Although an occasional treat won't do much harm to a dog's diet, acting like a nonstop goodie dispenser will sabotage your overall efforts to keep your pet at a healthy weight.

Get your wife to understand that food is not love. Keep treats to a minimum. And instead of handing out foods with chocolate, high fats or processed sugar, give tiny amounts of healthy pet treats, or even slivers of carrots or apples, or small pieces of rice cakes.

(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)

PET TIP

Rough rope perfect for feline clawing

You don't have to declaw your cat. If you discourage your pet from clawing your furniture and offer attractive alternatives, it's likely you can have your décor left alone without putting your pet through the ordeal of surgery.

Some cats like to scratch horizontally, some vertically. It's good to offer choices -- sturdy cat trees and posts, as well as products designed for a good horizontal scratch. Sisal rope is an attractive scratching material for many cats, and it can be wrapped around vertical elements to freshen up a worn post or tree.

For corners of the furniture that are attracting feline attention, use double-sided tape (or a product like Sticky Paws) to discourage your pet. Place cat trees or posts next to the area you're trying to get your cat to avoid, and reward your pet for using an acceptable alternative. You won't have to live with a cat tree in the middle of the living room forever: Move it in small increments until it's where you want it.

If your pet's a catnip junkie, be sure to rub some fresh clippings on to the approved scratching area to make it even more appealing.

ON THE WEB

Plenty to learn on SF SPCA site

The San Francisco SPCA has been one of the most influential animal shelters in the country, a pioneer in the no-kill movement, as well as its efforts to humanely reduce feral cat populations and increase the reach of kinder methods of training and behavior modification for pets.

The organization's Web site (www.sfspca.org) shows its interest in spreading the word beyond the borders of the notably progressive city. Printable information is available on topics ranging from disaster preparedness to pet loss and providing for a pet in a will. There's also top-quality information on working through behavior problems with dogs and cats, and on fostering orphaned kittens.

While a lot of the information is of interest only to people in the San Francisco Bay Area, there's enough here to help all kinds of pet lovers to make the site worth a visit. Plus, you can order cool SF SPCA logo gear online!

BREED TYPE

Ridgeback excels as family companion

The Rhodesian ridgeback was bred in Africa as an all-purpose farm dog, family guardian and hunter. They have developed into a breed almost ideally suited to be a family companion: athletic but not hyper, friendly but not fawning, protective but not aggressive.

The ridgeback is a short-coated dog ranging from 70 pounds to 90 pounds. The breed gained its name from the distinctive ridge of hair along its spine, the probable legacy of an African dog believed to be one of its ancestors. They are clean and quiet, and they shed very little.

Ridgebacks are hounds, and therefore somewhat stubborn and independent. Because they will cheerfully take off after anything that smells interesting or runs past, good fencing is essential. They also need daily walks, and a chance to get some free running exercise in a safely fenced area once or twice a week.

Rambunctious as a puppy, the mature ridgeback is quiet in the home and great with children. And in the home is where a Ridgeback needs to live, as these dogs are very attached to their human family members and will be unhappy if isolated.

Rhodesian ridgebacks also possess one other notable breed trait: They like their food. It's critical that you not allow your dog to overeat, because few ridgebacks have any kind of "off" switch when it comes to food.

Ridgebacks can suffer from hip and elbow dysplasia, thyroid disease, cataracts and a congenital defect known as dermoid sinus. Some Ridgebacks are ridgeless. So if the ridge is important to you, make sure the puppy you obtain has one. To avoid problems with health or temperament, get your ridgeback from a reputable rescue group or from a breeder who is a member of the Rhodesian Ridgeback Club of the United States (http://rrcus.org). -- Christie Keith, pethobbyist.com

BY THE NUMBERS

Little birds rule

The ownership rates for birds have remained pretty steady at 6 percent of the total U.S. population. Small birds such as cockatiels and parakeets are the most popular among bird keepers (multiple answers allowed):

Cockatiel 38 percent

Parakeet 32 percent

Finch 7 percent

Lovebird 7 percent

Conure 6 percent

African Grey 5 percent

Canary 5 percent

Dove 4 percent

Amazon 3 percent

Cockatoo 3 percent

Macaw 2 percent

Source: American Pet Products Manufacturers Association

PET Rx

Spring brings garden hazards

Snail bait, weed killer, fertilizers and even some mulches can be toxic to a pet, which is why it's important to keep your animals in mind when thinking of spring gardening.

Read all labels and follow directions carefully when handling yard chemicals, making sure substances have dried and the containers are properly put away before pets are allowed back into any treated area.

Hand-pick any mushrooms for disposal, and check your yard for other toxic plants. The American SPCA's Animal Poison Control Center (www.aspca.org/apcc) has a list of potentially deadly plants on its Web site.

And always know how to get in touch with your veterinarian if your pet gets into something dangerous. A delay in getting help can cost your pet his life.

(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)

Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.

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